Middlesex.
Malcolm, in his Anecdotes of the Manners and Customs of London (1811, p. 259), speaking of Christmas Day, says:—“It was a day of grand difference in the judgment of some, and in the City of London some opened their shops, but to stop mutinying they were shut up again; yet do very few understand what the difference is that is now embraced in the judgments of those who desire the reformation from Popish innovation, but to give such further satisfaction herein, it is the opinion of these that it is a day wherein it is very fit for the people of God to congregate in the church to hear the Word of God preached, but not a holiday or such a day as is of absolute necessity to be kept holy; it is a day wherein it is no sin for a man to follow his calling, and he must not by a Popish innovation adore the day.”
Inns of Court.—There were anciently great doings in the halls of the Inns of Court at Christmas. At the Inner Temple early in the morning the gentlemen of the Inn went to church, and after the service they repaired into the hall to breakfast with brawn, mustard, and malmsey. At the first course at dinner was “served in, a fair and large Bore’s head upon a silver platter, with minstralsye.”—Dugdale’s Orig. Jurid.
A correspondent of N. & Q. (5th S. vol. ii. p. 507), alluding to the time-honoured custom of the Boar’s Head Feast at St. John’s Gate, Clerkenwell, says the boar’s head is still served up at Queen’s College, Oxford (see [p. 477]), but I do not think it can be more enjoyable than the Christmas custom used to be at Clerkenwell, with the hall strewn with rushes, the gigantic yule-log drawn in by the sons of the host (the late proprietor), with the accompanying announcement, by bugles, and the bringing in of the boar’s head, the “cook dressed all in white,” singing the good old carol (printed by Wynkyn, de Worde, 1521), copies of which being in the hands of the guests, who joined in the chorus, rendering the whole scene so pleasant as never to be forgotten. The loving cup was never omitted, and of course wassail was duly brought in, “ye Lorde of Mysrewle doing his duty ‘passing well.’” The following is an exact copy of the carol:
“Caroll at ye Bryngyne in ye Bore’s Heed.
Caput apri differo
Reddens laudem Domino.
The bore’s heed in hande bringe I,
With garlens gay and rosemarie,
I pray you all synge merrilie,
Qui estis in convivio.
The bore’s heed I understande,
Is the chefe servyce in this lande,
Loke wherever it be fonde,
Servite cum cantico.
Be gladde lordes, both more and lesse,
For this hath ordeyned our stewarde
To chere you all this Christmasse,
The bore’s heed with mustarde.”
Subjoined is a copy of the invitation the late host and his predecessor used to issue, which is a curious production:
“We’ll passe aboute ye lovynge cuppe,
And sende ye wassaile rounde;
With myrthe and songes of chyvalrie,
These goodlye Halles shall sounde.
[Here is an illustration of the north side of the Gate.]
“Samuel Wickens, ye Grande Mayester of ye Priorye of Sainte John, Greetinge welle hys ryght trustye and welle beloved friends, dothe herebye summon them to hys councill to be holden in ye Greate Halle of ye Priorye, aforesaide, on ye ninthe daye of Ianuarie, anno Domini, one thousande eighte hundrede and seventie-three, to adjudycate on ye qualitie of hys viandes: that is to saye, roaste beefe and plumbe puddynge, and with a cordialle greetinge in ye wassaile boule and ye lovynge cuppe, perpetuate to alle tyme and to tyme oute of mynde a ryghte goodlye and lastynge fellowshipe. Ye Boare’s heade will be broughte into ye halle, and ye chante will be sange, at sixe of the clocke, at which tyme ye Feast will begine.”