Three Expeditions into the Interior of Eastern Australia, Volume 2 / With Descriptions of the Recently Explored Region of Australia Felix, and of the Present Colony of New South Wales

by T. L. Mitchell

CHAPTER 3.10.

Cross various rivulets.
Enter the valley of Nangeela.
Native female and child.
Encamp on the Glenelg.
Cross the Wannon.
Rifle range.
Mount Gambier first seen from it.
Sterile moors crossed by the party.
Natives numerous but not accessible.
Again arrive on the Glenelg.
Indifferent country on its banks.
Breadth and velocity of the river.
Encamp on a tributary.
Difficult passage.
The expedition brought to a stand in soft ground.
Excursion beyond.
Reach a fine point on the river.
The carts extricated.
The whole equipment reaches the river.
The boats launched on the Glenelg.
Mr. Stapylton left with a depot at Fort O'Hare.
Character of the river.
Ornithorynchus paradoxus.
Black swans.
Water brackish.
Isle of Bags.
Arrival at the seacoast.
Discovery bay.
Mouth of the Glenelg.
Waterholes dug in the beach.
Remarkable hollow.
Limestone cavern.
One fish caught in the Glenelg.
Stormy weather.
Return to the depot.
Difference in longitude.

CROSS VARIOUS RIVULETS.

August 9.

Once more in a state of forward movement we crossed green hills and running brooks until, when we had travelled nearly six miles from Muddy Camp and had crossed six fine streams or burns, we met with a more formidable impediment in the seventh. The sides of this ravine were so uncommonly steep that our new difficulty was how to move the vehicles down to the bank of the stream. In one place where a narrow point of ground projected across, a passage seemed just possible; and after we had made it better with spades we attempted to take a light cart over. The acclivity was still however rather too much, and over went the cart, carrying the shaft bullock with it, and depositing all my instruments etc. under it in the bed of the stream. With travellers on roads this might have been thought a serious accident, but in our case we were prepared for joltings, and nothing was in the least degree injured; neither was the animal hurt, and we ascertained by the experiment, dangerous though it was, that still more was necessary to be done for the passage of the heavy carts and boats which were still some way behind; and I encamped on the bank beyond that the men might set about this work. No time was lost in filling up the hollow with all the dead trees that lay about and what others we could cut for the purpose; and thus before sunset the three carts and one waggon were got across. The rocks in the bed of this stream consisted of grey gneiss, and on the hills beyond it I found nodules of highly ferruginous sandstone.

ENTER THE VALLEY OF NANGEELA.

August 10.

By means of a block and tackle attached to a large tree the remaining carts and the boat-carriage were safely lowered to the bed of the stream. To draw them up the opposite bank was practicable only by uniting the strength of several teams, yet this too was effected successfully and the whole party were enabled to go forward in the morning. At a mile and a half from the camp a scene was displayed to our view which gladdened every heart. An open grassy country extending as far as we could see--hills round and smooth as a carpet, meadows broad, and either green as an emerald or of a rich golden colour from the abundance, as we soon afterwards found, of a little ranunculus-like flower. Down into that delightful vale our vehicles trundled over a gentle slope, the earth being covered with a thick matted turf, apparently superior to anything of the kind previously seen. That extensive valley was enlivened by a winding stream, the waters of which glittered through trees fringing each bank.

NATIVE FEMALE AND CHILD.

As we went on our way rejoicing I perceived at length two figures at a distance who at first either did not see or did not mind us. They proved to be a gin with a little boy and as soon as the female saw us she began to run. I presently overtook her, and with the few words I knew prevailed on her to stop until the two gins of our party could come up; for I had long been at a loss for the names of localities. This woman was not so much alarmed as might have been expected; and I was glad to find that she and the gins perfectly understood each other. The difference in the costume on the banks of the Wando immediately attracted the notice of the females from the Lachlan. The bag usually carried by gins was neatly wove in basketwork and composed of a wiry kind of rush. She of Wando carried this bag fastened to her back, having under it two circular mats of the same material, and beneath all a kangaroo cloak, so that her back at least was sufficiently clothed, although she wore no dress in front. The boy was supported between the mats and cloak; and his pleased and youthful face, he being a very fine specimen of the native race, presented a striking contrast to the miserable looks of his whining mother. In the large bag she carried some pieces of firewood and a few roots, apparently of tao, which she had just been digging from the earth. Such was the only visible inhabitant of this splendid valley resembling a nobleman's park on a gigantic scale. She stated that the main river was called Temiangandgeen, a name unfortunately too long to be introduced into maps. We also obtained the gratifying intelligence that the whole country to the eastward was similar to these delightful vales and that, in the same direction, as Piper translated her statement, "there was no more sticking in mud." A favourable change in the weather accompanied our fortunate transition from the land of watery soil and dark woody ravines to an open country. The day was beautiful; and the balmy air was sweetened by a perfume resembling hay which arose from the thick and matted herbs and grass. Proceeding along the valley the stream on our left vanished at an isolated rocky hill; but, on closer examination, I found the apparent barrier cleft in two, and that the water passed through, roaring over rocks. This was rather a singular feature in an open valley where the ground on each side of it was almost as low as the rocky bed of the stream itself. The hill was composed of granular felspar in a state of decomposition; the surrounding country consisting chiefly of very fine-grained sandstone. It is not easy to suppose that the river could ever have watered the valley in its present state and forced its way since through that isolated hill of hard rock; as to believe that the rock, now isolated, originally contained a chasm, and afforded once the lowest channel for the water before the valley now so open had been scooped out on each side by gradual decomposition. Another rivulet approached this hill, flowing under its eastern side and joining the Wando just below. According to my plan of following down the main river it was necessary to cross both these tributaries.

PLATE 34: FEMALE AND CHILD OF AUSTRALIA FELIX.
Major T.L. Mitchell del. Waldeck Lith. J. Graf Printer to Her Majesty.
Published by T. and W. Boone, London.

ENCAMP ON THE GLENELG.

In the open part of the valley the channels of these streams were deep and the banks soft; but at the base of the hill of Kinganyu (for such was its name) we found rock enough and, having effected a passage there of both streams that afternoon, we encamped after travelling about three miles further on the banks of the Glenelg once more. Our route lay straight across an open grassy valley at the foot of swelling hills of the same description. Each of these valleys presented peculiar and very romantic features, but I could not decide which looked most beautiful. All contained excellent soil and grass, surpassing in quality any I had seen in the present colony of New South Wales. The chase of the emu and kangaroo, which were both numerous, afforded us excellent sport on these fine downs. When about to cross the Wando I took my leave of the native woman before mentioned, that she might not have the trouble of fording the river, and I presented her with a tomahawk of which our females explained to her the use, although she seemed still at a loss to conceive the meaning of a present. The use of the little hatchet would be well enough known however to her tribe so, leaving her to return to it and assuring her at the same time of our friendly disposition towards the natives, we proceeded.

The left bank of the principal stream was very bold where we reached it on this occasion, but still open and covered with rich turf. The right bank was woody and this was generally its character at the other points where we had seen the Glenelg. It was flowing with considerable rapidity amongst the same kind of bushes we had met with above, but they did not appear so likely here to obstruct the passage of boats.

On the plains we found a singular acacia, the leaves being covered with a clammy exudation resembling honey-dew. It differed from A. graveolens in its much more rigid habit, shorter and broader leaves, and much shorter peduncles.*

(*Footnote. A. exudans, Lindley manuscripts; ramis crassis rigidis angulatis leviter pubescentibus, phyllodiis oblongo-lanceolatis mucronatis oblique binerviis viscido-punctatis basi obsolete glandulosis, capitulis 1-2 axillaribus, pedunculis lanatis, bracteolis rigidis acutis pubescentibus alabastris longioribus (capitulis echinatis).)

August 11.

Passing along the bank of the river under the steep grassy hills which consisted of very fine-grained, calcareous sandstone, we began two miles on to ascend these heights; as well to avoid a place where they closed precipitously on the Glenelg as to gain a point from which I hoped to command an extensive view of its further course, and so cut off some of the windings. From that point, or rather on riding through the woods to some distance beyond it, I perceived that the river was joined by another coming from the south-east through an open country of the finest character. Below their junction the principal river disappeared on passing through a woody range, and turned towards the south-west.

JUNCTION OF THE WANNON.

Nothing could be seen beyond the crest which seemed a very predominant feature bounding the fine valley of the Wannon on the south. By turning round the eastern brow of the high ground on which we then were we gained a long ridge of smooth grassy land, leading by an easy descent from this height to the junction of the rivers. This high ground was thickly wooded with stringybark trees of large dimensions, and a few other eucalypti, together with banksia and casuarinae. The soil there was soft and sandy and the substratum contained masses of ironstone. The shrubs upon the whole reminded me of those in the wooded parts of the sandhills on the shores of Port Jackson. Smoke arose from various parts of the distant country before us; and we perceived one native running at prodigious speed across the plain below.

CROSS THE WANNON.

On reaching the banks of the Wannon we found it a deep flowing stream, about half as large as the river itself. We succeeded in finding a ford and crossed after cutting away some bushes and levelling the banks. Beyond the Wannon we travelled 2 3/4 miles over a portion of very fine country and encamped in a little vale in the bosom of a woody range, the western side of which overhung the river at the distance of two miles.

August 12.

A fine clear morning gave full effect to the beauty of the country which I now saw to the eastward from a hill near our camp. The summit of the Victoria range crowned the distant landscape; and the whole of the intervening territory appeared to consist of green hills, partially wooded. We crossed a mountain-stream by filling up its bed with logs and, as we ascended the slopes beyond, we found the country grassy until we reached the high and wooded crest. Lofty stringybark trees and other timber grew there on a white sandy soil; but we found among the bushes abundance of the anthisteria or kangaroo grass.

After travelling some miles beyond this crest we at length found the ground sloping to the southward; and some swampy hollows with reeds in them obliged us to turn to the right or south-west, as the water in these depressed parts falling eastward, or to the left, showed that we were not so very near the river, on the right, which I was endeavouring to follow. We were delayed in several of these hollows by the sinking of the carts and boat-carriage.

RIFLE RANGE.

We next traversed an extensive moor or heath on which the rising ground was firm, and a little way beyond it some rising ground bounded our view. On ascending this highest feature which I named the Rifle range I found it commanded an extensive view over a low and woody country.

MOUNT GAMBIER FIRST SEEN FROM IT.

One peaked hill alone appeared on the otherwise level horizon and this bore 68 degrees West of South. I supposed this to be Mount Gambier near Cape Northumberland which, according to my survey, ought to have appeared in that direction at a distance of forty-five miles.

STERILE MOORS CROSSED BY THE PARTY.

I expected to find the river on reaching the lower country beyond this range; but instead of the Glenelg and the rich country on its banks we entered on extensive moors of the most sterile description. They were however firm enough for travelling upon, the surface being very level and the soil a whitish sand. These open wastes were interrupted in some parts by clumps of stringybark forest which entirely concealed from view the extent of this kind of country. Swamps full of water and containing reeds of a dark yellow colour at length became numerous; and although I succeeded in pursuing a course clear of these obstacles, we were obliged to encamp at twilight without having any immediate prospect of a better country before us. There was however abundance of grass in these wet swamps and our carts passed over one quite covered with water without sinking. Our camp was marked out on a low hill of white sand on which grew mahogany and stringybark trees of large dimensions. The ridge from which we had descended now appeared continuous as far as we could see eastward.

NATIVES NUMEROUS BUT NOT ACCESSIBLE.

Much smoke arose from this lower country when we entered upon it and after sunset the incessant calls of a native were heard near our camp as if he had lost some comrade. I sent up a rocket that he might be convinced we had not arrived by stealth as the tribes do when they insidiously make war on each other, but he only reiterated his calls the more.

August 13.

At daybreak the cries of the native were renewed. I then made Piper cooey to him whereupon he became silent and I heard him no more, the natives of that country being, as Piper expressed it "still very wild." This morning we were on the march as soon as the sun rose, all being very anxious to see the river again and a better country. At two miles we passed along a sandy ridge between two extensive swamps; but at a mile and a half farther I found at length a small hollow and water running in it, a feature which convinced me at once that the river could not be very distant. In the bank there was a thin stratum of shelly limestone bearing a resemblance to some of the oolitic limestones of England; and in the bed were irregular concretions of ironstone containing grains of quartz, some of the concretions having externally a glazed appearance arising from a thin coating of compact brown haematite.

AGAIN ARRIVE ON THE GLENELG.

Casuarinae and banksia growing on grassy slopes were the next marks of a different country from that of the swamps, and at less than a mile from this point we came upon the river.

INDIFFERENT COUNTRY ON ITS BANKS.

Its banks had a different character from that which they presented above but they were still fine.

BREADTH AND VELOCITY OF THE RIVER.

The river now flowed in a narrow valley, the bed being about 70 feet below the common level of the swampy flats. At sharp bends the banks consisted of cliffs of a soft limestone, composed in part of comminuted fragments of corallines, the interstices being rarely filled up; the rock contained also a few specimens of Foraminifera, most probably of recent species. In the narrow valley all was flourishing and green, attesting the rich luxuriance of the alluvial soil. The mimosa trees predominated, but still the bushes of leptospermum darkened the stream which was deep, rapid, and muddy, its breadth being about 40 yards and the bed consisting of a friable or soft calcareous sandstone. In accompanying it in its course downward we met with less difficulty than I had expected, but I perceived that the barren swampy land, or more frequently the stringybark forests, approached the higher banks on both sides the river. The few ravines falling in our way were only the drains from swamps close at hand and they were easily crossed by the party at the fall of the ground, where we found rocky strata.

ENCAMP ON A TRIBUTARY.

After tracing the river more than four miles we encamped on an elevated point overlooking a flat of good grass, so necessary for the cattle.

August 14.

Some of the bullocks were missing and we were compelled to wait an hour or two while parties went in search of them; one party being guided by Piper, the other by the two Tommies. I availed myself of the leisure afforded by this delay to measure the breadth, depth, and velocity of the river which were respectively as follows:

Average breadth: 35 yards. Mean depth: 17 feet. Velocity of the current: 1,863 yards per hour; the general course, as far as we had traced this portion being nearly South-East.

When most of the cattle had been brought in we proceeded and, in endeavouring to keep along the highest ground between the swamps, I unavoidably left the river at some distance on our right, a circumstance I considered of less consequence as the ground appeared to be falling on my left towards some tributary; and at four miles we came upon a small river flowing rapidly in a valley nearly as deep and wide as the main stream. The country on its immediate bank looked better than that last found on the main stream. Limestone rock appeared in the bank opposite and at the foot of some cliffs we found fossil oyster-shells. Mr. Stapylton traced this stream to its junction with the river about two miles lower down.

August 15.

Two bullocks were still missing and I had recourse to compulsory measures with Piper and the man who lost them in order to find them again: I declared that unless they were found Piper should have no provisions for a week; and I condemned the man who lost them to be kept every second night on watch during the remainder of the journey.

DIFFICULT PASSAGE OF THE STOKES.

The passage of the little river (which named the Stokes in memory of a brother officer who fell at Badajoz) was not to be easily accomplished, owing to the depth and softness of the alluvial soil through which it flowed. One place passable on horseback was found after long search by Mr. Stapylton and myself. Out of the bed of the stream at that part we drew some dead trees and after two hours of great exertion the passage of the boat-carriage and carts was effected, the latter sinking deeper in the water than they ever had done in any river which we had previously forded.

THE EXPEDITION BROUGHT TO A STAND IN SOFT GROUND.

We found the country beyond very intricate, being so intersected with swamps draining off in all directions, and so divided by stringybark forests, that it was next to impossible to avoid the soft swampy ground or reach the riverbank again. We headed one deep ravine falling towards it, and had indeed travelled in the desired direction about four miles further on dry ground, but only by winding about as the swamps permitted when at length the ground appeared to slope towards the river, being also covered with the fine grass and the kind of trees which usually grew near it. But this ground notwithstanding its firm appearance proved to be as soft as that of Mount Mud; and it spread at length around us on all sides except that from which we had approached it by so circuitous a route.

EXCURSION BEYOND.

We had no alternative but to cross this bad ground and, after finding out by careful examination the narrowest part, we prepared to puts to the nearest firm ground beyond, an undertaking infinitely more difficult and laborious to us than the passage of the broadest river. One of the carts was with much labour taken across and, being anxious to know the actual situation of the river, I rode southward into the wood taking with me the chain or measuring men, and leaving the rest of the people at work in the mud. I found much of the ground equally soft as I proceeded, but all consisted of excellent open forest land covered with good grass. I found there a woolly Correa, profusely covered with pink bell-shaped blossoms and small round rufous leaves;* and the beautiful Kennedya prostrata was climbing among the bushes and rendering them brilliant with its rich crimson flowers.

(*Footnote. C. rotundifolia, Lindley manuscripts; ramulis rufis villosissimis, foliis subrotundis brevi-petiolatis supra scabris subtus villosis saepius emarginatis, corollis campanulatis brevibus subtetrapetalis, calyce truncato rufo villosissimo.)

REACH A FINE POINT ON THE RIVER.

At length I approached a ravine on the left which I at first took for that of the river; but I soon perceived through the trees on my right a still greater opening, and there I at last found the valley of the Glenelg. In the ravine to the left ran another small stream rather larger than that crossed yesterday. We reached the bank of this at 2 3/4 miles from the place where we left the party and at about half a mile above its junction with the main stream. The high ground between the two streams terminated in a round grassy promontory overlooking one of the finest flats imaginable. I determined to endeavour once more to explore the river's course with the boats; provided we should succeed in transporting them over the mud to this spot; and I returned with this intention to the muddy scene where I had left the men. It was quite dark before I found it again and then they had succeeded in getting through only the three light carts. I did not despair of accomplishing the passage, at least in the course of time; but I was indeed impatient for daylight that I might carefully examine with that view all parts of the country between our camp and the place where I intended to launch the boats into the Glenelg again.

THE CARTS EXTRICATED BY PROCEEDING WITH GREAT CAUTION.

August 16.

This morning it rained heavily and there was a balmy and refreshing mildness in the air, probably owing to the vicinity of the sea. It occurred to me that, as the ground appeared to slope towards the south-east, we might reach some hollow on that side leading to the little river we discovered yesterday; and that such a hollow would afford the best chance of escape from the soft flats which now impeded us, since the drainage they afforded to the immediate banks was likely to leave them at least firm enough to be travelled upon. On this principle alone I understood why the ground on the banks of the stream seen yesterday was so firm; and I therefore hoped that the head of any ravine found near our camp would lead by a dry though perhaps circuitous route first to the tributary, and next by its bank to the point already mentioned where it joined the Glenelg. I accordingly instructed Mr. Stapylton to examine the ground in the direction proposed while I superintended the exertions of the party to drag the boat-carriage through the mud. We finally succeeded in this last effort and, just as I stood watching with joy the ascent of the carriage to the firm ground beyond, Mr. Stapylton came to me with the intelligence that he had found the head of a ravine and firm ground on its bank in the direction where he had been. One bad place alone intervened between our present position and the firm ground at the head of the ravine but this Mr. Stapylton said was very bad indeed. By 10 A.M. everything was got across the first swamp, the loads of all the carts having been carried by the men. To the new difficulty mentioned by Mr. Stapylton I therefore led them next, and we soon accomplished the passage of the light carts; after which I proceeded, leaving to Mr. Stapylton the management of the rest, having first brought the boat-carriage within reach of the firm ground opposite by means of blocks and tackle attached to trees and drawn by five bullocks. On going forward with the carts I was guided altogether by the course of the ravine or gully, keeping along the fall of the ground and so avoiding the softer soil above. Thus we proceeded successfully for, although another ravine came in our way, I managed to travel round its head near which I found a place where we crossed the small watercourse it contained by filling up the chasm with logs. On passing this we entered the stringybark forest which I had traversed on the day previous; and I at length recognised through the trees the hill from which I had seen the junction of the streams. A tremendous hailstorm met us in the face just as we descended to encamp in the valley near the bank of the river, but this troubled us but little while we were up to the waist in the thickest crop of grass growing on the richest black soil I had ever seen. Mr. Stapylton and Burnett came up in the evening with the intelligence that the whole party had effected a safe passage across the swampy ground; but that the wheels of the boat-carriage and some of the carts had sunk deep in the earth where I had previously crossed on horseback followed by the light carts without leaving any impression, and that consequently they had made but little progress beyond the camp.

August 17.

I sent Burnett back with some spare bullocks to assist the people in bringing on the carts and the boat-carriage, a man having been despatched from them early to inform me that the carriage had again stuck fast. Piper drew my attention to the sound of a distant waterfall which he said he had heard all night and wished now to go down the river to look at. I directed him to do so and to examine the river also still further if he could, that he might bring back information as to how the boats might get down the stream. On his return in the afternoon he stated that the river was joined just below by several large streams from the left, and by one still larger from the right which, falling on rocks, made the noise he had heard during the night; also that on climbing a high tree he had seen the river very large "like the Murray," adding that it was excellent for boats. All this news only made me the more impatient to embark in them while they were still afar on the muddy hills.

THE WHOLE EQUIPMENT REACHES THE RIVER.

The whole day passed without any tidings of their approach, and another night had closed over us before I heard the distant calls of the bullock-drivers; but I had the satisfaction soon after of seeing the whole party and equipment again united on the banks of this promising stream. The barometer was rising, the spring advancing, and the approaching warmth might be expected to harden the ground. The cattle would be refreshed by a week's rest in the midst of the rich pasture around us, while our labours to all appearance were on the eve of being crowned by the discovery of some harbour which might serve as a port to one of the finest regions upon earth. At all events if we could no longer travel on land, we had at length arrived with two boats within reach of the sea, and this alone was a pleasing reflection after the delays we had lately experienced.

THE BOATS LAUNCHED ON THE GLENELG.

August 18.

An uncommonly fine morning succeeded a clear frosty night. The boats were hoisted out to be launched once on the bosom of the newly discovered Glenelg; and they were loaded with what the party going with them might require for ten days. I left with Mr. Stapylton instructions that the men under his charge should move up to and occupy the round point of the hill, a position which I named Fort O'Hare in memory of a truly brave soldier, my commanding officer who fell at Badajoz in leading the forlorn hope of the Light Division to the storm.

MR. STAPYLTON LEFT WITH A DEPOT AT FORT O'HARE.

At twelve o'clock I embarked on the river with sixteen men in two boats, leaving eight with Mr. Stapylton in the depot.

CHARACTER OF THE RIVER.

We met with many dead trees for the first mile or two, but none of these either prevented or delayed our passage; and the river then widened into fine reaches wholly clear of timber, so that the passage further down was quite uninterrupted. The scenery on the banks was pleasing and various: at some points picturesque limestone cliffs overhung the river, and cascades flowed out of caverns hung with stalactites; at others the shores were festooned with green dripping shrubs and creepers, or terminated in a smooth grassy bank sloping to the water's edge. But none of the banks consisted of water-worn earth; they were in general low and grassy, bounding the alluvial flats that lay between the higher points of land. Within the first three or four miles from Fort O'Hare two tributaries joined the main stream from the right or westward, and one from the left or eastward: one of the former ending in a noisy cascade at the junction. The river soon opened to a uniform width of sixty yards, its waters being everywhere smooth and unruffled and the current scarcely perceptible.

Ornithorynchus paradoxus.

Ducks were always to be seen in the reaches before us, and very frequently the Ornithorynchus paradoxus, an animal which had not, I believe, been hitherto seen so near the sea. After rowing about sixteen miles we landed on the left bank near a cascade falling from under a limestone cliff and there we encamped for the night. The sun was setting in a cloudless sky while I eagerly ascended the highest cliffs in hopes of obtaining a sight of the coast, but nothing was visible beyond a gently undulating woody country, some swamps alone appearing in it to the westward. The land about the cliffs of limestone was tolerably good and grassy, but towards the end of this day's pull forests of the stringybark sort of eucalyptus, having in them trees of large dimensions, closed on the river. We endeavoured but in vain to catch fish, and whether the waters contained the cod-perch (Gristes peelii) or not remained a question. Our position and our prospects were now extremely interesting and throughout the night I was impatient for the light of the next day.

COURSE OF THE RIVER.

August 19.

I arose at three in order to determine the latitude more exactly by the altitude of various stars then approaching the meridian. These were Aries and Menkar; while the two feet of the Centaur, both fine circumpolar stars, were so steadily reflected in the placid stream that I obtained by that means the altitude of both BELOW THE POLE. It was most essential to the accuracy of my survey of the river that I should determine the latitude as frequently and exactly as possible. The sun afterwards rose in a cloudless sky and I ascertained the breadth of the river by means of a micrometer telescope to be exactly 70 yards. We continued our interesting voyage and found the river of very uniform width and that its depth increased.

PLATE 35: BOAT ON THE RIVER GLENELG.
Left foreground: Banksia. Middle distance: Limestone.
Major T.L. Mitchell del. G. Barnard Lith. J. Graf Printer to Her Majesty.

The current was slower but still perceptible although we found the water had ebbed six inches during the night an indication that it was already influenced by the tide although it tasted perfectly fresh. At a place where I observed the sun's meridian altitude I found the breadth on measurement to be 71 yards and the depth on sounding, 4 1/2, 3 1/2 and 3 fathoms. The direction of the course had there however changed. To the camp of last night it had been remarkably straight towards south-south-east although full of turnings being what may be termed straight serpentine,* and I had accordingly expected to find the estuary at Portland Bay in which case it was likely to be sheltered sufficiently by Cape Nelson to form a harbour. Now however the general course was nearly west and it preserved the same general direction without much winding during the progress we made throughout the day. I had therefore every reason to suppose that it would thus terminate in the wide bay between Cape Northumberland and Cape Bridgewater. The scenery on the long reaches was in many places very fine from the picturesque character of the limestone-rock and the tints and outline of the trees, shrubs, and creepers upon the banks. In some places stalactitic grottoes covered with red and yellow creepers overhung or enclosed cascades; at other points casuarinae and banksia were festooned with creeping vines whose hues of warm green or brown were relieved by the grey cliffs of more remote reaches as they successively opened before us.

(*Footnote. See Colonel Jackson's paper also referred to above.)

BLACK SWANS.

Black swans being numerous, we shot several; and found some eggs which we thought a luxury among the bulrushes at the water's edge. But we had left, as it seemed, all the good grassy land behind us; for the stringybark and a species of Xanthorrhoea (grass-tree) grew to the water's edge both where the soil looked black and rich and where it possessed that red colour which distinguishes the best soil in the vicinity of limestone rock. One or two small tributaries joined the river the principal one coming from the left bank at that point or angle where the great change takes place in its course. When the sun was near setting we put ashore on this bank and from a tree on the highest part of the country behind it we now once again saw Mount Gambier bearing 57 degrees West of North.

WATER BRACKISH.

Here the water was slightly brackish but still very good for use; the saltness being most perceptible when the water was used for tea. The river had increased considerably both in width and depth; for here the measured breadth was 101 yards and the mean depth five fathoms. (See section on general Map.) It was upon the whole considering the permanent fulness of its stream the character of its banks and uniformity of width and depth the finest body of fresh water I had seen in Australia; and our hopes were that day sanguine that we should find an outlet to the sea of proportionate magnitude.

August 20.

This morning I found there was a rise of six inches in the river, evidently the effect of tide as the water was brackish although still fit for use. The reach on which we embarked afforded us a view for a mile further down the river; the vista being truly picturesque and with the interest attached to the scene it looked indeed quite enchanting. We pulled on through the silent waters, awakening the slumbering echoes with many a shot at the numerous swans or ducks. At length another change took place in the general course of the river which from west turned to east-south-east. The height of the banks appeared to diminish rapidly and a very numerous flock of the small sea-swallow or tern indicated our vicinity to the sea. The slow-flying pelican also with its huge bill pursued, regardless of strangers its straight-forward course over the waters.

ISLE OF BAGS.

A small bushy island next came in sight having on it some rocks resembling what we should have thought a great treasure then, a pile of flour-bags and we named it accordingly the Isle of Bags.

ARRIVAL AT THE SEACOAST.

Soon after passing the island a few low, sandy-looking hills appeared before us; and we found ourselves between two basins where in the water was very shallow although we had sounded just previously to entering one of them in four fathoms. The widest lay directly before us but having no outlet we steered into the other on the right and on rounding a low rocky point we saw the green rolling breakers of the sea through an opening which proved to be the mouth of the river. It consisted of two low rocky points and as soon as we had pulled outside of them we landed on the eastern one. In the two basins we had seen there was scarcely sufficient water to float the boats and thus our hopes of finding a port at the mouth of this fine river were at once at an end. The sea broke on a sandy beach outside and on ascending one of the sandhills near it I perceived Cape Northumberland; the rocks outside called the Carpenters bearing 7 degrees 20 minutes South of West (variation 3 degrees 30 minutes) and being distant, as I judged, about fifteen miles. Mount Gambier bore 23 degrees 40 minutes North of West and a height which seemed near the extreme point of the coast on the eastward and which I therefore took for Cape Bridge water bore 52 degrees East of South.

DISCOVERY BAY.

These points seemed distant from each other about forty miles; the line of coast between forming one grand curve or bay which received this river at the deepest part and which I now named Discovery Bay.

MOUTH OF THE GLENELG.

There was no reef of rocks upon the bar; a circumstance to be regretted in this case for it was obvious that the entrance to this fine river and the two basins was choked merely by the sand thrown up by the sea. The river was four fathoms deep, the water being nearly fresh enough for use within sight of the shore. Unfortunately perhaps for navigation there is but little tide on that coast; the greatest rise in the lower part of the river (judging by the floating weeds) did not exceed a foot. I was too intent on the completion of my survey to indulge much in contemplating the welcome sight of old ocean; but when a plank was picked up by the men on that desolate shore and we found the initials IWB and the year 1832 carved on wood which had probably grown in old England the sea really seemed like home to us. Although it was low water a boat might easily have been got out and it is probable that in certain states of the tide and sand small craft might get in; but I nevertheless consider the mouth of this river quite unavailable as a harbour.

WATERHOLES DUG IN THE BEACH.

Near the beach were holes dug apparently by the natives in which we found the water perfectly sweet. The hills sheltering the most eastern of the two basins were well wooded as were also those behind. The line of sandhills on the beach seemed to rise into forest hills at about five miles further eastward and all those in the west to within a short distance of the coast were equally woody. The day was squally with rain; nevertheless during an interval of sunshine I obtained the sun's meridian altitude making the latitude 38 degrees 2 minutes 58 seconds South. I also completed by two P.M. my survey of the mouth of the river and adjacent country; and we then again embarked to return a few miles up the river and encamp where wood and water were at hand. On reentering the river from the sea I presented the men with a bottle of whisky with which it was formally named the Glenelg after the present Secretary of State for the Colonies according to my previous intention.

REMARKABLE HOLLOW.

August 21.

We had encamped in a rather remarkable hollow on the right bank at the extreme western bend of the river. There was no modern indication that water either lodged in or ran through that ravine although the channel resembled in width the bed of some considerable tributary; the rock presenting a section of cliffs on each side and the bottom being broad but consisting of black earth only in which grew trees of eucalyptus. I found on following it some way up that it led to a low tract of country which I regretted much I could not then examine further. I found shells embedded in limestone varying considerably in its hardness being sometimes very friable and the surface in some places presenting innumerable fragments of corallines, with pectens, spatangi, echini, ostrea and foraminifera.

LIMESTONE CAVERN.

In the opposite bank of the river I found several thin strata of compact chert containing probably fragments of corallines, not only on the surface but embedded in the limestone. In pulling up the river this morning we observed a cavern or opening in the side of the limestone rock and having ascended to it by means of a rope we entered with lights. It proved to be only a large fissure and after penetrating about 150 yards underground we met with red earth, apparently fallen from the surface. We found at the mouth of the fissure some fine specimens of shells, coral, and other marine productions, embedded in several thin strata of a coarser structure under one of very compact limestone upwards of 20 feet thick.*

(*Footnote. In the fragments brought home Mr. George Sowerby found a nucula, very much resembling some species of South America although not like any from Australia. Portions of lucinae, echinus, spatangi, and turritella or melania, were comprised in specimens from a softer stratum which was the lowest.)

ONE FISH CAUGHT IN THE GLENELG.

While the people in the boat awaited us there a fish was taken by Muirhead who had also caught the first fish in the river Darling. That of the Glenelg was a saltwater fish known at Sydney by the name of Snapper.*

(*Footnote. This was the only fish caught in the Glenelg notwithstanding the men threw in their lines whenever we encamped on its banks. The weather was too cold for it was evident the river did contain fish from the trellised work which the natives had set across it in the upper parts.)

STORMY WEATHER.

The weather was more moderate today although still showery; and the scenery as we proceeded upwards was very picturesque and full of variety. At sunset we encamped about a mile and a half short of our camp of the 18th and just as the trees were groaning under a heavy squall which obliged us to land on the first spot where sufficient room was left in the thick woods for our tents. This spot happened to be on a steep bit of bank; and in the evening I was called in haste to a new danger. The wind had suddenly changed and blew with great fury filling my tent with sparks from a large fire which burnt before it. I had placed in it according to usual custom our stock of ammunition in a keg; and notwithstanding these precautions its preservation now between the two elements of fire and water was rather doubtful. We contrived however to avert the danger and were no more disturbed during the night except by the storm.

RETURN TO THE DEPOT.

August 22.

The squally weather continued until noon when sunbeams again adorned the river-scenery. We met with no impediment in the current until within about six miles of the depot camp when dead trees in the channel began again to appear; but we passed them all without hindrance and reached Fort O'Hare at two o'clock where we found all well. Mr. Stapylton had set Vulcan to repair the broken chains etc., a ford had been cleared across the stream from the north-east which I named the Crawford; and the cattle being refreshed we were once more in trim to continue the land journey. The height of the water in the river had undergone no change during our absence and was probably about its usual level there although I observed abundant marks of flood in the branches of trees where dry floated matter remained at the height of fifteen feet above the water as it stood then. The rock about this position consisted of limestone apparently similar to that seen on its banks higher up. (See August 15.) It possessed a stalactitic aspect by the infiltration of calcareous matter and in crevices below I found a reddish stalagmite containing grains of sand. Large petrified oyster shells lay loosely about the bank above these cliffs. No natives had approached the depot during our absence and we had indeed reason to believe that the adjacent country contained but few inhabitants.

DIFFERENCE IN LONGITUDE.

During the afternoon I laid down my survey of the estuary of the Glenelg and completed by 10 P.M., not only my plan of it but that of the river also. I found a considerable difference between the result of my survey and the Admiralty charts not only in the longitude but also in the relative position of the two capes with respect to Mount Gambier a solitary hill easily recognised.*

(*Footnote. At that time I supposed the difference had arisen from some error or omission in my map and took much pains to discover it; but not having succeeded my work having also closed to a mile and three-quarters on my return to the country connected by trigonometrical survey with Sydney I have been obliged to represent these parts of the coast according to this land survey.)