CHAP. 8.—THE SEVENTH REGION OF ITALY.
Next to this comes the seventh region, in which is Etruria, a district which begins at the river Macra, and has often changed its name. At an early period the Umbri were expelled from it by the Pelasgi; and these again by the Lydians, who from a king of theirs[1207] were named Tyrrheni, but afterwards, from the rites observed in their sacrifices, were called, in the Greek language[1208], Tusci. The first town in Etruria is Luna[1209], with a noble harbour, then the colony of Luca[1210], at some distance from the sea, and nearer to it again the colony of Pisæ[1211], between the rivers Auser[1212] and Arnus[1213], which owes its origin to Pelops and the Pisans[1214], or else to the Teutani, a people of Greece. Next is Vada[1215] Volaterrana, then the river Cecinna[1216], and Populonium[1217] formerly belonging to the Etrurians, the only town they had on this coast. Next to these is the river Prile[1218], then the Umbro[1219], which is navigable, and where the district of Umbria begins, the port of Telamon[1220], Cosa[1221] of the Volcientes, founded by the Roman people, Graviscæ[1222], Castrum novum[1223], Pyrgi[1224], the river Cæretanus[1225], and Cære[1226] itself, four miles inland, called Agylla by the Pelasgi who founded it, Alsium[1227], Fregenæ[1228], and the river Tiber, 284[1229] miles from the Macra.
In the interior we have the colonies of Falisci[1230], founded by the Argives, according to the account of Cato[1231], and surnamed Falisci Etruscorum, Lucus Feroniæ[1232], Rusellana, the Senienses[1233], and Sutrina[1234]. The remaining peoples are the Arretini[1235] Veteres, the Arretini Fidentes, the Arretini Julienses, the Amitinenses, the Aquenses, surnamed Taurini[1236], the Blerani[1237], the Cortonenses[1238], the Capenates[1239], the Clusini Novi, the Clusini Veteres[1240], the Florentini[1241], situate on the stream of the Arnus, Fæsulæ[1242], Ferentinum[1243], Fescennia[1244], Hortanum[1245], Herbanum[1246], Nepeta[1247], Novem Pagi[1248], the Claudian præfecture of Foroclodium[1249], Pistorium[1250], Perusia[1251], the Suanenses, the Saturnini, formerly called the Aurinini, the Subertani[1252], the Statones[1253], the Tarquinienses[1254], the Tuscanienses[1255], the Vetulonienses[1256], the Veientani[1257], the Vesentini[1258], the Volaterrani[1259], the Volcentini[1260], surnamed Etrusci, and the Volsinienses[1261]. In the same district the territories of Crustumerium[1262] and Caletra[1263] retain the names of the ancient towns.
CHAP. 9.—THE FIRST REGION OF ITALY[1264]; THE TIBER; ROME.
The Tiber or Tiberis, formerly called Thybris, and previously Albula[1265], flows down from nearly the central part of the chain of the Apennines, in the territory of the Arretini. It is at first small, and only navigable by means of sluices, in which the water is dammed up and then discharged, in the same manner as the Timia[1266] and the Glanis, which flow into it; for which purpose it is found necessary to collect the water for nine days, unless there should happen to be a fall of rain. And even then, the Tiber, by reason of its rugged and uneven channel, is really more suitable for navigation by rafts than by vessels, for any great distance. It winds along for a course of 150 miles, passing not far from Tifernum[1267], Perusia, and Ocriculum[1268], and dividing Etruria from the Umbri[1269] and the Sabini[1270], and then, at a distance of less than sixteen miles from the city, separating the territory of Veii from that of Crustuminum, and afterwards that of the Fidenates and of Latium from Vaticanum.
Below its union with the Glanis from Arretinum the Tiber is swollen by two and forty streams, particularly the Nar[1271] and the Anio, which last is also navigable and shuts in Latium at the back; it is also increased by the numerous aqueducts and springs which are conveyed to the City. Here it becomes navigable by vessels of any burden which may come up from the Italian sea; a most tranquil dispenser of the produce of all parts of the earth, and peopled and embellished along its banks with more villas than nearly all the other rivers of the world taken together. And yet there is no river more circumscribed than it, so close are its banks shut in on either side; but still, no resistance does it offer, although its waters frequently rise with great suddenness, and no part is more liable to be swollen than that which runs through the City itself. In such case, however, the Tiber is rather to be looked upon[1272] as pregnant with prophetic warnings to us, and in its increase to be considered more as a promoter of religion than a source of devastation.
Latium[1273] has preserved its original limits, from the Tiber to Circeii[1274], a distance of fifty miles: so slender at the beginning were the roots from which this our Empire sprang. Its inhabitants have been often changed, and different nations have peopled it at different times, the Aborigines, the Pelasgi, the Arcades, the Seculi, the Aurunci, the Rutuli, and, beyond Circeii, the Volsci, the Osci, and the Ausones whence the name of Latium came to be extended as far as the river Liris[1275].
We will begin with Ostia[1276], a colony founded by a king of Rome, the town of Laurentum[1277], the grove of Jupiter Indiges[1278], the river Numicius[1279], and Ardea[1280], founded by Danaë, the mother of Perseus. Next come the former site of Aphrodisium[1281], the colony of Antium[1282], the river and island called Astura[1283], the river Nymphæus[1284], the Clostra Romana[1285], and Circeii[1286], formerly an island, and, if we are to believe Homer, surrounded by the open sea, though now by an extensive plain. The circumstances which we are enabled to publish on this subject for the information of the world are very remarkable. Theophrastus, the first foreigner who treated of the affairs of Rome with any degree of accuracy (for Theopompus, before whose time no Greek writer had made mention of us, only stated the fact that the city had been taken by the Gauls, and Clitarchus, the next after him, only spoke of the embassy that was sent by the Romans to Alexander)—Theophrastus, I say, following something more than mere rumour, has given the circuit of the island of Circeii as being eighty stadia, in the volume which he wrote during the archonship of Nicodorus at Athens[1287], being the 440th year of our city. Whatever land therefore has been annexed to that island beyond the circumference of about ten miles, has been added to Italy since the year previously mentioned.
Another wonderful circumstance too.—Near Circeii are the Pomptine Marshes[1288], formerly the site, according to Mucianus, who was thrice consul, of four-and-twenty cities. Next to this comes the river Ufens[1289], upon which is the town of Terracina[1290], called, in the language of the Volsci, Anxur; the spot too where Amyclæ[1291] stood, a town destroyed by serpents. Next is the site of the Grotto[1292], Lake Fundanus[1293], the port of Caieta[1294], and then the town of Formiæ[1295], formerly called Hormiæ, the ancient seat of the Læstrygones[1296], it is supposed. Beyond this, formerly stood the town of Pyræ; and we then come to the colony of Minturnæ[1297], which still exists, and is divided[1298] by the river Liris, also called the Glanis. The town of Sinuessa[1299] is the last in the portion which has been added to Latium; it is said by some that it used to be called Sinope.
At this spot begins that blessed country Campania[1300], and in this vale first take their rise those hills clad with vines, the juice of whose grape is extolled by Fame all over the world; the happy spot where, as the ancients used to say, father Liber and Ceres are ever striving for the mastery. Hence the fields of Setia[1301] and of Cæcubum[1302] extend afar, and, next to them those of Falernum[1303] and of Calinum[1304]. As soon as we have passed these, the hills of Massica[1305], of Gaurus[1306], and of Surrentum rise to our view. Next, the level plains of Laborium[1307] are spread out far and wide, where every care is bestowed on cultivating crops of spelt, from which the most delicate fermenty is made. These shores are watered by warm springs[1308], while the seas are distinguished beyond all others for the superlative excellence of their shell and other fish. In no country too has the oil of the olive a more exquisite flavour. This territory, a battle-ground as it were for the gratification of every luxurious pleasure of man, has been held successively by the Osci, the Greeks, the Umbri, the Tusci, and the Campani.
On the coast we first meet with the river Savo[1309], the town of Volturnum with a river[1310] of the same name, the town of Liternum[1311], Cumæ[1312], a Chalcidian colony, Misenum[1313], the port of Baiæ[1314], Bauli[1315], the Lucrine Lake[1316], and Lake Avernus, near which there stood formerly a town[1317] of the Cimmerians. We then come to Puteoli[1318], formerly called the colony of Dicæarchia, then the Phlegræan[1319] Plains, and the Marsh of Acherusia[1320] in the vicinity of Cumæ.
Again, on the coast we have Neapolis[1321], also a colony of the Chalcidians, and called Parthenope from the tomb there of one of the Sirens, Herculaneum[1322], Pompeii[1323], from which Mount Vesuvius may be seen at no great distance, and which is watered by the river Sarnus[1324]; the territory of Nuceria, and, at the distance of nine miles from the sea, the town of that name[1325], and then Surrentum[1326], with the Promontory of Minerva[1327], formerly the abode of the Sirens. The distance thence by sea to Circeii is seventy-eight miles. This region, beginning at the Tiber, is looked upon as the first of Italy according to the division of Augustus.
Inland there are the following colonies:—Capua[1328], so called from its champaign country, Aquinum[1329], Suessa[1330], Venafrum[1331], Sora[1332], Teanum surnamed Sidicinum[1333], Nola[1334]; and the towns of Abelia[1335], Aricia[1336], Alba Longa[1337], the Acerrani[1338], the Allifani[1339], the Atinates[1340], the Aletrinates[1341], the Anagnini[1342], the Atellani[1343], the Affilani[1344], the Arpinates[1345], the Auximates[1346], the Abellani[1347], the Alfaterni (both those who take their names from the Latin, the Hernican and the Labicanian territory), Bovillæ[1348], Calatia[1349], Casinum[1350], Calenum[1351], Capitulum[1352] of the Hernici, the Cereatini[1353], surnamed Mariani, the Corani[1354], descended from the Trojan Dardanus, the Cubulterini, the Castrimœnienses[1355], the Cingulani[1356], the Fabienses[1357] on the Alban Mount, the Foropopulienses[1358] of the Falernian district, the Frusinates[1359], the Ferentinates[1360], the Freginates[1361], the old Frabaterni[1362], the new Frabaterni, the Ficolenses[1363], the Fregellani[1364], Forum Appî[1365], the Forentani[1366], the Gabini[1367], the Interamnates Succasini[1368], also surnamed Lirinates, the Ilionenses Lavinii[1369], the Norbani[1370], the Nomentani[1371], the Prænestini[1372] (whose city was formerly called Stephané), the Privernates[1373], the Setini[1374], the Signini[1375], the Suessulani[1376], the Telesini[1377], the Trebulani, surnamed Balinienses[1378], the Trebani[1379], the Tusculani[1380], the Verulani[1381], the Veliterni[1382], the Ulubrenses[1383], the Urbinates[1384], and, last and greater than all, Rome herself, whose other name[1385] the hallowed mysteries of the sacred rites forbid us to mention without being guilty of the greatest impiety. After it had been long kept buried in secresy with the strictest fidelity and in respectful and salutary silence, Valerius Soranus dared to divulge it, but soon did he pay the penalty[1386] of his rashness.
It will not perhaps be altogether foreign to the purpose, if I here make mention of one peculiar institution of our forefathers which bears especial reference to the inculcation of silence on religious matters. The goddess Angerona[1387], to whom sacrifice is offered on the twelfth day before the calends of January [21st December], is represented in her statue as having her mouth bound with a sealed fillet.
Romulus left the city of Rome, if we are to believe those who state the very greatest number, having three[1388] gates and no more. When the Vespasians were emperors[1389] and censors, in the year from its building 826, the circumference of the walls which surrounded it was thirteen miles and two-fifths. Surrounding as it does the Seven Hills, the city is divided into fourteen districts, with 265 cross-roads[1390] under the guardianship of the Lares. If a straight line is drawn from the mile-column[1391] placed at the entrance of the Forum, to each of the gates, which are at present thirty-seven in number (taking care to count only once the twelve double gates, and to omit the seven old ones, which no longer exist), the result will be [taking them altogether], a straight line of twenty miles and 765 paces[1392]. But if we draw a straight line from the same mile-column to the very last of the houses, including therein the Prætorian encampment, and follow throughout the line of all the streets, the result will then be something more than seventy miles. Add to these calculations the height of the houses, and then a person may form a fair idea of this city, and will certainly be obliged to admit that there is not a place throughout the whole world that for size can be compared to it. On the eastern side it is bounded by the agger of Tarquinius Superbus, a work of surpassing grandeur; for he raised it so high as to be on a level with the walls on the side on which the city lay most exposed to attack from the neighbouring plains. On all the other sides it has been fortified either with lofty walls or steep and precipitous hills[1393], but so it is, that its buildings, increasing and extending beyond all bounds, have now united many other cities to it[1394].
Besides those previously mentioned, there were formerly in the first region the following famous towns of Latium: Satricum[1395], Pometia[1396], Scaptia, Politorium[1397], Tellene, Tifata, Cænina[1398], Ficana[1399], Crustumerium, Ameriola[1400], Medullum[1401], Corniculum[1402], Saturnia[1403], on the site of the present city of Rome, Antipolis[1404], now Janiculum, forming part of Rome, Antemnæ[1405], Camerium[1406], Collatia[1407], Amitinum[1408], Norbe, Sulmo[1409], and, with these, those Alban nations[1410] who used to take part in the sacrifices[1411] upon the Alban Mount, the Albani, the Æsulani[1412], the Accienses, the Abolani, the Bubetani[1413], the Bolani[1414], the Cusuetani, the Coriolani[1415], the Fidenates[1416], the Foretii, the Hortenses[1417], the Latinienses, the Longulani[1418], the Manates, the Macrales, the Mutucumenses, the Munienses, the Numinienses, the Olliculani, the Octulani, the Pedani[1419], the Polluscini, the Querquetulani, the Sicani, the Sisolenses, the Tolerienses, the Tutienses, the Vimitellarii, the Velienses, the Venetulani, and the Vitellenses. Thus we see, fifty-three peoples of ancient Latium have passed away without leaving any traces of their existence.
In the Campanian territory there was also the town of Stabiæ[1420], until the consulship of Cneius Pompeius and L. Cato, when, on the day before the calends of May [30th of April], it was destroyed in the Social War by L. Sulla the legatus, and all that now stands on its site is a single farmhouse. Here also Taurania has ceased to exist, and the remains of Casilinum[1421] are fast going to ruin. Besides these, we learn from Antias that king L. Tarquinius took Apiolæ[1422], a town of the Latins, and with its spoils laid the first foundations of the Capitol. From Surrentum[1423] to the river Silarus[1424], the former territory of Picentia[1425] extends for a distance of thirty miles. This belonged to the Etruscans, and was remarkable for the temple of the Argive Juno, founded by Jason[1426]. In it was Picentia, a town[1427] of the territory of Salernum[1428].