THE WORK OF OCEAN-CURRENTS.
As agents of erosion, ocean-currents are not, in general, of great importance. Currents which reach the bottom are comparable, in their effects, to rivers of the same velocity and volume; but most ocean-currents do not touch bottom, and, therefore, do not erode it. Where the current agitates the bottom sensibly, as it often does in shallow water, the bottom is abraded, and in the lee of such places it is doubtless aggraded. Since ocean-currents do not, for the most part, flow in shallow water, their erosive work is, on the whole, relatively slight; but where they are forced through narrow and shallow passageways, their abrasive work may be considerable. Thus the Gulf Stream, where it issues from the Gulf, has a velocity of four or five miles per hour, and its shallow and narrow channel is current-swept.
A rough test of the abrasive work of an ocean-current is found in the nature of the bottom beneath it. If this be hard, it indicates that the loose sediment on the floor of the ocean has been swept away, while the presence of fine detritus indicates that the current is not wearing. Thus the abrasive power of the Gulf Stream is known to continue somewhat beyond its narrow channel, for on the Blake plateau (between the Bahamas and Cape Hatteras), where the water is 600 fathoms and less in depth, “the bottom of the Gulf Stream ... is swept clean of lime and ooze and is nearly barren of animal life.”[168] Other illustrations of the erosive power of currents have been noted near Gibraltar in water 500 fathoms deep, and between the Canary Islands at depths of 1000 fathoms.[169] In spite of these examples, and of many others which probably exist in similar situations, it yet remains true that ocean-currents are on the whole but feeble agents of erosion.
As agents of transportation, ocean-currents are scarcely more important than as agents of corrasion, for they transport only what they erode, if the life which inhabits them be left out of consideration. This phase of their work has probably been exaggerated through a confusion of transporting energy and actual transportation. Ocean-currents which do not touch bottom roll no sediment and carry only what may be held in suspension. A river’s power of transporting sediment in suspension is due largely to the cross-currents occasioned by the unevenness of its resistant bottom ([p. 117]). If a particle of mud in suspension in a river drops to the bottom, as it frequently does, it may be picked up again and carried forward. If, on the other hand, a particle in suspension in an ocean-current once escapes the moving water by settling through it, the current which does not drag bottom has no chance to pick it up again. Very fine sediment may be carried by an ocean-current far beyond the point where it was acquired, but currents which do not touch bottom are rarely strong enough to hold any but the finest material for any considerable length of time. As transporters of sediment, therefore, ocean-currents are at a great disadvantage as compared with rivers.
How readily particles of extreme fineness may be kept in suspension, and how little agitation is necessary to keep them from sinking, is shown by the experiments of Sorby, who showed that while a sand grain ¹⁄₁₀₀ of an inch in diameter will settle one foot per second in still water, fine particles of clay require days to sink through the same distance. The Challenger found fine sediment derived from the land 400 miles from the coast of Africa, and that not opposite the debouchure of any large river. Sediment settles more readily in salt water than in fresh, despite the fact that the former is heavier. This is presumably because the salt diminishes the cohesion of the water.
Deposition by ocean-currents is limited by their transportation. Only where they erode their bottoms do they gather coarse materials, and only in the lee of such places are their deposits coarse. Since the material which they carry is generally fine, it is widely distributed before deposition.
Ocean-currents have little influence on the configuration of coast-lines.