CHAPTER X.
Making a Door-latch—Making a Hinge—Making a Candle-stick.
Exercise No. 5.
Door latch.—In [Figure 21] is shown a latch for a double door. In [Figure 22] are shown the dimensions of the two plates and the bar latch. In making the plates, a piece of soft steel, 2 in. wide and ⅛-in. thick is used. The design is sketched on the metal and five ⁹⁄₃₂-in. holes are drilled in each plate where the square holes come in the design. The plates are then heated and a square punch is used to drift out the holes. The outside edges are then cut. The plate is heated and with a square punch the metal is set down to give it the interlaced effect as shown in [Figure 23].
Fig. 22.
Fig. 23.
Fig. 24.
The plates are now filed to straighten the square holes, and the holes on the corners for screws are drilled. [Figure 24] represents the catch, which can be made as shown, and the knob which is worked out on the end of a rod, as shown in [Figure 25]. It is hammered on the outer edge of the anvil. After each blow it is turned until finished. Then it is cut off and the tenon is filed. The guard shown in [Figure 26] is cut from a flat piece as represented. The bar is made from ½ by ³⁄₁₆-in. stock, drilled, and a slot is sawed for the spring. The spring is about ⅛ by ³⁄₃₂-in. and can be made from spring steel.
Fig. 25.
Fig. 26.
[Figure 27] represents a hinge that can be made from ⅛-in. soft steel. After the design is sketched with a slate pencil on the metal, the open parts are drilled and cut out. The outside is next cut with a chisel and the edges are filed smooth. The eye or joint of the hinge is formed without welding, by hammering it around an eye pin of the desired size. The prongs or projections to form the knuckle are filed so that they fit into one another. The interlacing is done with a square end punch in the same manner as explained for the latch. A great variety of designs of this kind can be made to advantage in iron. A drawing of a simple strap hinge is shown in [Figure 28]. The part of the strap at A on the drawing is made greater in length than width for appearance. This gives the strap apparent strength and emphasizes its length.
Fig. 27.
Fig. 28.
Fig. 29.
Fig. 30. Candle-stick.
The hinge can be made any length desired but should be carefully proportioned; the eye can be made loose or welded. In welding a hinge-eye the lap should always be on the back. Note the drawing of the eye ready for welding in [Figure 29]. In making hinges, the making of the eye is always the first operation. A welded eye makes the strongest hinge; but it can be made with a loose eye if desired. In bending and finishing the eye, an eye-pin should be used to true the hole. An eye-pin is a piece of round steel of the desired size drawn tapering on each end so that it can be driven thru a hole. The projections that form the joint for a loose eye hinge should be cut out before the eye is made. If the stock is light, the joint in either a loose or a welded hinge can be filed or sawed after the eye is turned. In a heavy eye the projections are laid off and marked on the metal while flat. The bar is then heated and split lengthwise from one side, starting ½-inch from the end, and cutting long enough to make the eye. The eye is then formed and welded, and pieces are cut out leaving alternating projections which can be filed to fit.
Exercise No. 6.
Fig. 31.
Exercise No. 6 is a candle-stick. The reproduction, [Figure 30], shows the finished piece. The drawing, [Figure 31], at A, gives the dimensions; at B, is shown the pattern of the bottom in the flat. The bottom is cut from a sheet of soft steel, using a narrow cold chisel. The edge is then filed and bent up about one-quarter of an inch. In doing so, it is hammered over a round block or iron which fits into the square hole of the anvil. See [Figure 32]. The handle is formed by heating it, and hammering it over the horn of the anvil. In making the socket to hold the candle as shown at C, [Figure 31], the piece is cut from number 20 soft steel. At D, is illustrated the stock cut ready for forming.
Fig. 32.
In cutting this piece, the shape is sketched with a slate pencil on the metal. Five holes are now drilled, the center hole, ⁵⁄₃₂ in. in diameter and four ³⁄₁₆-in. holes at the base of leaves. A narrow cold chisel is then used which will cut on a curved line. The edges of the pieces are then filed; the piece is heated and hammered on the elm block to raise it. In raising the socket, it is heated in the center, set over a depression in the block and hammered. This brings the wings or leaves up. They are brought up until they overlap one another, the leaves forming a square box. The whole piece is then heated, placed on the end of a ¾-in. round bar, setting the whole into a swage, and the leaves are fitted around the bar by hammering. The socket is then riveted in place. A rivet is put in the end of the handle to hold it in place. The candle-stick is now smoothed with a file and smoked over the fire, then oiled.
Wrought Iron Lantern.