CHAPTER XIV.
Making a Lantern—Making a Wall-lamp.
Exercise No. 12.
Fig. 66. Lantern.
Fig. 67.
Fig. 68.
The lantern shown in [Figure 66] consists of four sides which are fastened together with angles and rivets. The top is made from four pieces, with angles also riveted to them. The stock is cut with a pair of snip shears, No. 06½. (See [Figure 67].) The sides must be cut to the same size or there will be trouble in putting them together. After they are cut, the open work is marked with a slate pencil. Holes are drilled in the corners of each opening, and they are cut out with a sharp chisel. The edges are filed and all holes are drilled for No. 12 rivets. At [Figure 68] is a drawing, with dimensions of one of the sides as it should be in the flat. Notice the section of the sheet bent at the top for the roof and at the bottom to hold the glass. The glass is held in position at the top with a little strip of copper, with a rivet to hold it. The glass is set into the groove at the bottom, and the copper cleat is bent over the top of the glass. The copper cleat should be ⅞ by ⅜ in., made from No. 26 soft copper. The bottom of the sheet is first bent at right angles, then a flat piece ³⁄₁₆ in. thick is laid on the inside of the sheet, and the whole is placed on the anvil. The end of the sheet is now hammered over the ³⁄₁₆-in. piece with a mallet to make the pocket to hold the glass. All of the holes for rivets to fasten the angles should be countersunk a little on the inside. The angles are made from one inch wide No. 20 hoop iron. They are formed by placing them between two pieces of flat iron as shown in [Figure 69], and holding the whole in a vise while hammering with a wood mallet.
Fig. 69.
Fig. 70.
Fig. 71.
In fastening the angles to the sides, the heads of the rivets are on the outside, and the inside is smooth. In doing this, the heads of the rivets are held in a rivet set while hammering on the inside.
Fig. 72.
Fig. 73.
The rivet set is caught in a vise as shown in [Figure 70]. A rivet set is a piece of steel with the shape of a rivet head sunken into one end. In making this, a punch is filed the shape of a rivet head and is then driven into the end of a hot piece of steel. In [Figure 71] is shown a simple method of developing a pattern of one section for the top of a lantern. A-B of the pattern is first drawn. The length of X-B of the elevation is the length of C-D of the pattern. Lines are then drawn from C to A and B. The point of each section at the top is cut off so that when the four pieces are riveted to the angles there will be a ⁷⁄₁₆-in. hole thru the top. (See [Figure 72].) In this hole is put a piece of ⅛-in. steam pipe with a lock nut on the top and another on the bottom to hold it in place. (See [Figure 73].) The pipe is for the socket to screw onto under the top, and also for the wire to come thru. The loop at the top is to suspend the lantern by. It is made of ⅜ by ⅛-in. stock, 6 inches long. Two No. 10 rivets are put in each end to fasten it to the roof. The lamp is to hang by a chain suspended from the ceiling. In doing this a ceiling cap is necessary. This may be a piece of ½-in. steam pipe threaded on one end and a hook made on the other. (See drawing, [Figure 74].) A cast iron piece is screwed on the end of the pipe and is then fastened to the ceiling by three screws, which supports the chain and lamp. The wires go thru the pipe and connect with other wires in the ceiling. (See drawing of the casting, [Figure 75].) When the lamp is wired and the casting is fastened to the ceiling, it must be covered with something to hide the wires and its rough appearance. In [Figure 76] is shown a drawing for a cap to cover the casting and wiring. The cap has a hole in the center for the pipe to pass thru, leaving it movable on the pipe. A collar of cast iron, with a set screw in the side, is to go under the cap and the screw tightened when the cap is against the ceiling. (See drawing of the collar, [Figure 77].) In making the cap, it is heated and hammered over a hole in the swage block. A hammer with a large-sized, rounded face is used. The disk is driven into the hole until it becomes bowl-shaped and the right height.
Fig. 74. Fig. 75.
Fig. 76. Fig. 77.
Fig. 78.
Fig. 79.
At [Figure 78] is represented a lamp that is to be fastened to the side of the wall, instead of hanging from the ceiling with a chain. The light is inverted, the lamp being open at the top and closed at the bottom.
The stock used in the construction of the lamp is very heavy, No. 14 soft steel being used. The angle plates on the corners are made from No. 20 soft steel. The plate that is on the back of the lamp has a cup-shaped pocket hammered into it to cover the wiring when the lamp is in place, and on which the light socket is fastened.
In [Figure 79] is shown a cross-section of the back plate, with the depression and socket in place.
This kind of lamp is very simple to make and can be made in various shapes and sizes. The back of the lamp can be made of wood instead of metal, if desired.
Wrought Iron Table Lamps.