CONTENTS.
DR. OUDNEY’S LIFE.
Dr. Oudney’s birth, enters Edinburgh University, passes as Surgeon, enters the Royal Navy, [3]—Put on half-pay, [4]—Returns to Edinburgh, [5]—Practises as Surgeon, [6]—Appointed member of expedition to explore the interior of Africa, [9]—Letter from London on the eve of his departure, [10]—Letter from Malta, [11]—Two letters from Tripoli, [12]—Letter from Tripoli, [16]—Letter from Gardens, near Tripoli, [18]—Letter from Mourzuk, [19]—Ditto, [20]—Ditto, to Professor Jameson, [22]—Letter from Mourzuk, [25]—Letter to Professor Jameson from Mourzuk, [27]—Letter from Mourzuk, [30]—Letter from Gatroni, [31]—letter from Kuka, kingdom of Bornou, [32]—Letter from Kuka, [34]—Sets forward to Soudan, [36]—Falls ill at Katagum, letter from Captain Clapperton to Mr. Consul Warrington from Kano, giving an account of his illness and death, [37].
CAPTAIN CLAPPERTON’S LIFE.
Introductory remarks, [45]—His parentage, [48]—Birth, education, youthful adventures, embraces the sea service, [52]—Promoted to be a midshipman in his majesty’s ship Renommeé, [58]—Service in the East Indies, nearly drowned, storming fort Louis, [64]—Service on the lakes of Canada, crosses the ice to York, Upper Canada, great sufferings, Huron Indians, [73]—Second step of promotion, and conduct while an officer on half-pay, [82]—Acquaintance with Dr. Oudney, and his first expedition to Africa, [91]—Second expedition to Africa, [94]—Account of Mungo Park’s death, arrival at Soccatoo, his baggage seized by Bello, falls ill, Lander’s account of his death, [112].
MAJOR LAING’S LIFE.
Birth and parentage, [117]—Assists his father as a teacher, [118]—Enters the Edinburgh volunteers as ensign, [118]—Goes to Barbadoes, [119]—Placed on half-pay, [120]—Appointed Lieutenant and Adjutant, and goes to Sierra Leone, [120]—Goes on an embassy to Kambia, [120]—Description of the country, &c. [125]—Penetrates into the country of the Soolimas, [126]—Description of his route, [130]—Inoculates the children in Falaba, [136]—Returns to Sierra Leone, [138]—Sent to England with despatches, [139]—Promoted to be a Major, leaves London for Tripoli on his way to Timbuctoo, [139]—Marries Miss Warrington, [140]—Leaves Tripoli, [140]—His journey, [142]—His party attacked, and himself wounded, [143]—Report of his death, [144].
Publications by the same Author.
1. A Sermon on the Return of Peace; preached at Holcome, Lancashire, on the 7th July 1814.
Bishop Law, then of Chester, and now of Bath and Wells, in a Letter to the Author, thus stated his opinion of the above discourse.
“Rev. Sir,—I have read your sermon with great pleasure, and entire approbation. It is a composition every way respectable.”
2. A Narrative of the King’s Visit to Scotland, in August 1822.
3. A Treatise on Religion inserted in the Encyclopædia Edinensis.
The late venerable Sir Henry Moncrieff was pleased to express his unqualified approbation of the above Treatise.
4. A Catechism of the Evidences of the Christian Religion.
From the Edinburgh Saturday Evening Post.—“Into a small compass, and at a cheap price, the author has condensed the substance of many large treatises, which the interest of the subject has called forth. The style is plain, simple, and forcible; and we venture to affirm that he who makes himself master of the volume, small as it is, will never be at a loss to give an answer to any man that asketh him a reason of the hope that is in him.”
Extract of a Letter from W. Grant, Esq. Manchester.—“Your Catechism of the Evidences of Christianity is admirably calculated for the improvement of youth.”
5. A Classical Atlas, with a Memoir on Ancient Geography, dedicated to the Rector and Masters of the High School of Edinburgh. In 22 Maps, neatly coloured, and half-bound, 8vo. Price 6s.
From the Edinburgh Literary Gazette.—“This is one of the neatest, best arranged, and best executed little Manuals of Geography we have ever seen.”
From the Edinburgh Evening Post.—“We know of no addition which has been made to the number of our useful School-Books, for years past, by many degrees so valuable as this Classical Atlas. It is neat and portable, accurate, and cheap, and in all respects well fitted to accomplish its object.”
ERRATUM.
Page 23 for only, read nearly.
MEMOIR
OF
DR. OUDNEY,
THE AFRICAN TRAVELLER.
Although biography be the most attractive species of historical composition, as it gratifies the prying curiosity of our nature by making us acquainted with the origin and progress, and the retired habits, as well as the public pursuits, conduct, and character of distinguished individuals; yet there are few, comparatively speaking, of the human race, the actions of whose lives possess sufficient interest to engage the attention of their fellow-men, or are, on that account, worthy to be made the subject of biographical record. Had, therefore, Dr. Oudney’s name not been associated with that select band of enterprising men whose love of scientific adventure caused them to forego their native country and the endearments of home, and to wander in foreign lands, till they fell the victims of their own enthusiasm; we are ready to grant that, in all probability, notwithstanding his accomplishments and his worth, he would have been allowed to rest uninquired after with those millions of mankind who, the feverish bustle of life being over, have become “to dumb forgetfulness a prey.” But as he had the ardour of mind to undertake an expedition into the interior of Africa with the view of enlarging the dominions of science, and the perseverance to prosecute the enterprise, till, like others who had preceded him in the same career, he sacrificed his life in the performance of his duty; the incidents of his history have thereby acquired an interest, which, in other circumstances, they could not have possibly possessed; and, hence, a short memoir of his life cannot fail to afford a high gratification to a numerous class of readers; and this it is the object of the following pages to supply.
Doctor Walter Oudney was born, of humble parentage, in the vicinity of Edinburgh, in the month of December, 1790. From his boyhood he discovered an uncommon disposition and aptitude for learning; so that he could scarcely be induced to take the necessary hours of repose. It does not appear, however, that at this early period he manifested that inclination for travelling or adventure which afterwards operated so powerfully on his mind, and which seems to have been entirely the result of his professional occupation as a surgeon in the Royal Navy. Having found the means of attending the medical classes in the university of Edinburgh, he applied himself with indefatigable ardour to his studies, though we are not aware that he gained any other distinction beyond that of the esteem of his class-fellows, and the approbation of the respective professors under whom he studied; with some of whom he continued on terms of intimate friendship till the day of his death. Having passed the necessary examinations, and taken his surgeon’s degree, he experienced little difficulty, during the late extensive and long continued war with France, of obtaining an appointment as a surgeon in the royal navy. In this capacity he was employed, during a series of years, on various stations, and among others in the Indian ocean; and throughout the whole of that important period of his life, while he was assiduous in the prosecution of his professional studies, he was, at the same time, particularly careful to increase the quantity, and to extend the sphere of his general knowledge. For this laudable purpose, he applied himself with diligence to the reading of the Greek and Latin classics, and made great progress in the acquisition of the French, the Italian, and several other of the modern languages of Europe.
When, by means of the noble perseverance and the heroic bravery of Great Britain and her allies, the terrible and desolating war which had broken out at the French revolution—a war which involved not only the whole of Europe, but the greater part of the world at large in its interests, and which, during a long series of years, was carried on with unexampled pertinacity and magnitude of effort, both by sea and land—had ended in the subversion of the usurped power of Napoleon Bonaparte, and the restoration of the exiled princes of Bourbon to the royal authority which had been so long exercised by their ancestors, and when thereby peace was once more allowed to revisit the almost exhausted nations of Europe; Mr. Oudney, with thousands of his countrymen, had an opportunity of returning to his native country, and of revisiting the city in which he had received his education, and with which, consequently, he had many endearing and tenderly-cherished associations. He was now a naval surgeon on half pay, and, we believe, in the prospect of some prize-money; and, what must have been peculiarly agreeable to his mind, which was eminently gentle, sedate, and full of sensibility, he had an opportunity of witnessing the grateful and enthusiastic exultation which was exhibited by all ranks and descriptions of men for the gallant and signally important achievements, which, for the benefit and honour of the country, had been accomplished by the service with which he had been so long connected, and by which the dignity and the independence of the British empire had been so gloriously sustained.
Mr. Oudney, on his return, found his mother and his young sisters residing in Edinburgh, and with these near relations, who ever were, and continued to the last to be, the objects of his duteous affection and tender solicitude, he once more domesticated; and while he treated his mother, now advancing into the vale of years, with the respectful attention and kindness which filial regard alone can dictate, he was to his sisters at once a father and a brother. He put them in the way of receiving a good education, was careful to impress upon their minds the lessons of virtue and religion, and introduced them to society of a higher grade than, without his assistance, they could have hoped to associate. Indeed, during the whole period of Mr. Oudney’s public service, his mother and his sisters had never ceased to engage his solicitous attention; and to assure them of his affection towards them, and of his desire to minister to their comfort, he had from time to time sent them money so long as his public duties kept him at a distance from their society. This fact, so worthy of being recorded and remembered to Mr. Oudney’s honour, is a proof that his mind, which had been early impressed, continued to be steadily actuated, by a sentiment, which has long formed a distinguishing feature in the character of the Scottish peasantry; namely, the obligation so deeply felt, and so generally acted upon by them, of contributing to the support of their aged and dependent relatives. To form and to cherish this generous principle in the minds of the young, constitutes a part of their religious education, and hence spring many of those pure and lofty virtues which are often seen exemplified even in the humblest walks of life, and which are nowhere depicted with more truth and feeling than in the immortal pages of Burns. This is a trait in the Scottish character which is truly ennobling, and which we fondly hope no change of manners will ever weaken or efface.
As soon as Mr. Oudney had settled in Edinburgh he resumed his professional studies, and having completed the curriculum, prescribed to those who wish to take the degree of Doctor of Medicine, he obtained that academical rank upon the first of August 1817, his inaugural dissertation being “De Dysenteria Orientali,” a subject to which his attention was doubtless directed by having had an opportunity of observing the character and treatment of that disease during the period of his naval practice. He now became a medical practitioner in Edinburgh, and was very careful to observe and record the symptoms and circumstances which, in that capacity, came under his notice. While he was thus employed, he was in the habit of imparting the result of his observations to his medical friends, and among others, to Dr. Abercrombie of this city, who, once and again, in his communications to the “Edinburgh Medical and Surgical Journal,” has mentioned Dr. Oudney with approbation, and incorporated his young friend’s information with that of his own. We likewise observe in the same Journal (for July 1820) a paper by Dr. Oudney, entitled, “Cases of Ileus from a twist of the colon,” and we are assured on the authority of one of the most intimate of his medical friends, that he frequently sent communications to the “London Medical Journal.” At this period he was assiduous in the study of chemistry and natural history. Botany, especially, engaged much of his attention; and, we believe, he was indebted to the late Dr. Scott for much valuable information on this interesting department of physical knowledge. He and Dr. Scott commenced a botanical work on the grasses; he was employed by Dr. Duncan in arranging the plates of a botanical work belonging to the university library; and, we have been told, that at one time he entertained serious thoughts of becoming a lecturer on British botany. We know that he was enthusiastically attached to this study, and oftener than once we have accompanied him when he went on botanical excursions. He not only attended the natural history class in the university of Edinburgh, so ably taught by Professor Jameson, but he became likewise a member of the Wernerian Natural History Society, which, under the auspices of the same professor, has long held a conspicuous place among the scientific associations of the country.
It is a singular circumstance in the feelings and character of Dr. Oudney, that although the sedateness of his disposition and the benevolence of his heart made him enjoy the quietness and the comfort of home, and the interchange of the kind affections with his relations and friends around the domestic hearth, with a peculiar degree of satisfaction; although his steadiness and attention, joined to his professional experience and skill, were fast procuring for him an extensive medical practice; and although he could have formed a matrimonial alliance both agreeable to his feelings and advantageous to his prosperous establishment in life: yet, such was his love of distinction as a scientific traveller, and so strong was his desire of exploring distant, and of discovering unknown regions, that he was willing, for a while, to forego every other consideration for the sake of gratifying this master-passion of his mind. The hope of having it in his power of visiting foreign countries, and of extending the boundaries of physical knowledge, stimulated him to persevere in those scientific pursuits which were especially fitted to qualify him for accomplishing this purpose on which he had so steadfastly set his heart; and caused him to make his sentiments on this subject known to such individuals as he supposed had influence sufficient to promote the object which he had in view. For this end, he would have had no objections to have resumed his public services as a naval surgeon, trusting that he might be sent to some station favourable for prosecuting the inquiries which he was so anxious to make. But the interior of Africa was the field of investigation on which his own wishes were bent. The considerations, that the climate of that country had been fatal to so many former travellers, and that its inhabitants had showed themselves averse to have it traversed by strangers, were unable to exert an influence over his mind sufficiently strong to deter him from engaging in the enterprise if he should have it in his power to make the attempt. He felt that his constitution was vigorous; he had already acquired some knowledge of tropical climates; and he trusted that he possessed prudence and precaution sufficient to enable him to surmount every opposing obstacle, and to conduct any expedition on which he might be sent to a favourable and satisfactory issue. And sooner, we believe, than he expected, he had an opportunity of putting his sanguine anticipations to the test of experiment.
When it was known that government had resolved to send a new expedition to explore the central parts of Africa, and especially to trace the course, and endeavour to ascertain the termination of the Niger, Dr. Oudney, through the influence of Professor Jameson, along with Major Denham, and Captain Clapperton, was, greatly to his own satisfaction, appointed on this interesting mission. He had no fears of losing his health by travelling, was very sanguine that his labours would be crowned with success, and, being amply provided with instructions, by his friend Professor Jameson, how to prosecute his inquiries, and to collect and preserve specimens of the natural productions of the countries he was about to visit, he took farewell of his friends in Scotland and went to London in the summer of the year 1821. And we are peculiarly happy, that by means of a regular series of letters to his eldest sister, and to some other of his correspondents, we are enabled not only to make him give a luminous account of the rest of his career, but also to impart much new and valuable information respecting the countries in which he travelled. The first of the Doctor’s letters from which we shall take an extract, is one which he sent to his friend Mr. James Kay, surgeon of the Royal Navy, from London, on the eve of his setting out on his expedition.
“Here I am actively engaged in business of one kind or another. But I expect to finish and arrange every thing to day; for it is probable Clapperton and I shall depart to-morrow morning, unless the mail be detained a few days, a thing which I understand often happens. I have found every thing very agreeable here. Those with whom I have had to deal have been exceedingly polite, and in most respects have forwarded my views as far as possible. Our worthy friend Clapperton gets on amazingly well. I am in high spirits respecting my mission; from all that I have been able to learn, very little danger, and scarcely any impediments, are to be apprehended. We have got excellent fowling-pieces and pistols, and a most valuable assortment of philosophical instruments. The former, I hope, except for the purposes of natural history, will scarcely be required—an agreement exists between the British government and the pasha of Tripoli respecting the conveying of travellers safe to Bornou, therefore, so far as he is concerned, all is safe.”
The next letter in the series from which we shall quote is addressed to his eldest sister, and is dated “Malta, October 17, 1821.”
“This is certainly a curious island, it was originally a barren rock, but the labour of man has done wonders. Soil has been transported from different places, on which many gardens have been formed. The town is a strong fortress, celebrated in history for the noble stand which it made against the whole power of the infidels. You can have no idea of the houses from any thing you see in Edinburgh. The roofs are all flat, and well fitted for a warm climate. The entrance is capacious and gloomy, not unlike that of ancient baronial castles. The rooms are lofty, the floors of which are paved with stone; and the walls are generally decorated with large paintings. There is one very fine church, St. John’s, the floors of which are all of the finest marble, with some fine specimens of mosaic work, and the walls are adorned with beautiful paintings and well executed sculpture. There are, however, many marks of decay on the exterior of the building, which, by the bye, does not present that grand appearance that one would expect.”
The two letters which follow in the series are both dated “Tripoli, October 24, 1821,” and relate principally to what occurred on the passage from England to Africa.
“We are here at last, and a pretty place it is; so built, however, that three can scarcely walk a-breast in the streets: every few yards a house is in ruins, for there exists among the Moors a strange dislike to repair any thing, particularly houses. Whether that arises from indolence or superstitious notions, I cannot tell, but the fact is evident to the most superficial observer. Our passage to Malta was exceedingly agreeable—long certainly, but pleasant company prevented tedium. I visited the galleries at Gibraltar, and was highly pleased with the grandeur of the design. Your favourite fort, Malta, excited very little interest in my mind, not that the place is deficient in interest, but we were fretful from experiencing great harassment from individuals who ought to have forwarded our views, so that a disinclination to enjoy any thing was induced. On our arrival here, we found matters far beyond our expectation; far to the south of Bornou is open to us, and almost entirely subject to the pasha of Tripoli. All our route is clear and free from danger. The pasha’s word is a law not to be disobeyed, and he has pledged himself to protect us fifty-seven days’ journey beyond Bornou. On our landing, that favourable intelligence made us leap for joy. The Mahometans here are a most liberal sort of men, and tolerate people of every religious persuasion—a circumstance almost unknown in any other Mahometan country. The police is admirable, so that a stranger may traverse every part of the city without the least apprehension. As to the moral condition of the people, I can say but little, as I have had very imperfect opportunities of observing them.
“I must now describe to you my introduction to the pasha. The court-yard was filled with people of very different complexions, mostly the servants, guards, and relations of the pasha. The group had a most motely appearance; many were superbly dressed, others were in rags and filthy in the extreme. The room in which his Highness was seated was decent, with nothing gaudy. He sat at the farther end of the room, and his two sons sat on chairs at the other end of it; while many of his guards and ministers stood in different positions round the chamber. He was grave, and his muscles were as motionless as those of a statue, so much so that I was several times inclined to laugh. The gravity, however, ceased after a little conversation, and then a scene was displayed far from being disagreeable. He conversed with apparent pleasure on the success of his arms, and on the great distance to which he could convey the mission in perfect safety. That, you may be assured, was agreeable intelligence to us, and inspired us with hopes of almost certain success. I had to prescribe for him, for no sooner had I entered the room than my advice was requested. The two sons present were tolerably good-looking men; the elder of them was corpulent and very like his father; and the younger of them tall, slender, and, upon the whole, a good-looking young man. The pasha’s dress was clean, plain and neat. I hope we shall be able to set off early in December—a fine season for travelling—and expect to eat our new yearday’s dinner in Mourzuk. We travel in European dresses, and in this respect we shall be different from most of the former travellers in this part of Africa. The pasha approves of our resolution, and the consul is highly delighted with it. Indeed, on reflecting seriously on the matter, I think the plan is by far the most judicious. Hypocrisy almost always engenders suspicions; and the people well know that our pretensions to be of their religion are only feigned.”
With regard to the last-mentioned statement of the above letter, we know that Dr. Oudney was resolute in his determination not to travel under an assumed name and character. He was too sincere and conscientious a Christian ever to venture to lay aside the avowed practice of its duties for the attainment of any purpose whatsoever. He was strongly urged by some of his scientific friends to endeavour to control his scruples on this subject, and, like his predecessors in the same scheme of exploring Africa, to travel as an Arab and a disciple of Mahomet, but without success; and he declared that he would far rather abandon the enterprise to which he had been appointed, than even in appearance to renounce his faith. It so happened that the humour of the pasha of Tripoli, and the circumstances of his dominions at the time they were traversed by the mission to which Dr. Oudney was attached, favoured his design. It is quite clear neither Dr. Oudney nor his companions could have travelled in Africa as Mahometans, from their comparative ignorance of the languages of the east, and of the rites of the religion of the Arabian prophet. None of them had the preparatory training previous to the commencement of their journey as was enjoyed by Burckhardt and others; so that they must have been quickly detected as impostors had they assumed the profession of Islamism; and it is very true, as the Doctor remarks, that an exposed hypocrite is an odious character in any country. It is quite obvious, however, that the more familiar travellers are with the language of the people among whom they travel, and the better acquainted they are with their manners and customs, and their religious tenets and ceremonies, they will thereby best secure their confidence, and be the better enabled to adapt themselves to all circumstances, persons, and seasons, which they may meet with, as well as greatly increase their means of obtaining the knowledge of which they are in search. But whether Dr. Oudney’s declared resolution to travel as an Englishman and a Christian be approved of or not; or whether his conduct in this respect may or may not be imitated by others, every one must admire the honest sincerity of heart, and the unbending integrity of principle which his resolution manifested. There is another letter to his sister of the same date as the preceding, which likewise contains some facts worthy of being published.
“Tripoli, October 24, 1821.
“It is with the sincerest joy I communicate to you my safe arrival here. Every thing smiles and promises complete success to our enterprise. Accounts arrived here a few days ago, that the pasha’s army had penetrated to fifty-seven days’ journey beyond Bornou—a circumstance exceedingly favourable to us, as no danger need be apprehended the greater part of the way we design to take. This town has a very indifferent appearance. I expected to see numerous domes and gilded minarets, but such is not the case; a few ill-shaped plain minarets are the only objects that relieve the eye. The houses are clumsily built, with windows looking into a square court. The roofs are all flat, and on them the Moors enjoy themselves in the evenings, smoking their pipes. The streets are narrow, and, from the deficiency of windows, have a very sombre effect. The inhabitants consist of Moors, Jews, Christians, and Negroes; and although most of them are poor and filthy, and live in miserable dwellings, yet they may be regarded as happy; for there is here more toleration than in any other Mahometan country.
“I have been presented to the pasha. He was sitting, with great dignity, on his couch, in the manner of eastern princes, and with a slight nod returned our salutations: he appeared to be about the middle size—very corpulent—and apparently about forty years of age. He was grave—a necessary part of the ceremony, I suppose—for it vanished considerably when he began to converse. He promised us every protection through all his dominions, which extend far to the south, and said he should astonish Britain by the distance he could conduct us all in safety into the interior of the country. The castle he inhabits is far from being neat and clean, and many of his attendants present a very shabby appearance. The neighbouring country has nothing prepossessing; a few date and other trees line the outskirts of the town; but for many miles beyond this there is nothing but sand. In a few days we intend to make an excursion with a party into the mountains, and to the remains of an ancient Roman city. In my next, I shall give you some particulars of the excursion.”
None of the letters in our possession contain any thing relative to the mountains or the antiquities in the neighbourhood of Tripoli; but we remember to have heard extracts of a letter from Dr. Oudney to one of his friends in Edinburgh, dated Tripoli, 30th of October 1821, in the Wernerian Natural History Society; and these extracts formed the result of the excursion which he tells his sister he intended to make to the mountains of Tripoli and to the ruins of a Roman city. His next letter to his sister is dated Tripoli, December 10th, 1821, in which he says—
“I am busy making preparations for my journey, which I expect to commence about a fortnight hence. Every thing goes on well, and the prospects of success are of the most promising kind. The climate here is delightful, neither too hot nor too cold, but a just medium. A considerable degree of cold, however, may be expected during the time of part of our journey; but it is easier to remedy cold than heat. My health is excellent, and I hope it will continue so.”