CHAPTER XLVIII—CAMEL RIDING.—ADVENTURES AMONG THE NUBIANS.
How they made the Royal Coffins—Splitting Blocks of Stones with Wooden Wedges—An Ingenious Device—A Ride on a Camel—A Beast indulging in Familiarities—Lunching on Trowsers—Mounting in the Saddle—Curious Sensation—An Interesting Brute—A Camel Solo—Sitting in a Dish—Camel Riding in a Gymnastic Point of View—Secondary Effects—Nubian Ferry-Boats—P. T. and his Paint-Pot—Labors of an Enthusiastic American—Mr. Tucker on his Travels—“A Human Donkey”—Visiting the Cataract—Paying Toll to a Sheik—The Professor and his Camel—Crocodiles of the Nile—Starting back to Cairo.
WE arranged to go around the cataract and visit the Island of Philæ the day after our arrival at Assouan. On our way we took in the granite quarries, where for thousands of years blocks of stone were taken out for various building purposes and for making those enormous sarcophagi used in so many Egyptian tombs. The stone is of the red character known as syenite and admits of a high polish. In one of the quarries there is an obelisk not quite detached, which would have been ninety-five feet high and eleven feet broad at the base. Why it was abandoned and under what king it was begun are not known.
The quarries are interesting from the fact that they show the ancient method of removing stone. Holes were cut to receive wooden wedges, which were driven firmly in and then wet with | water until their swelling broke away the stone by the equal and powerful pressure it exerted. The same plan is still in use in, some parts of India; the quarries at Jerusalem whence was, taken the stone for building Solomon’s temple show similar marks of the wedge.
We were offered the choice of camels or donkeys for the ride to Philæ and back, and for the novelty of the thing I selected a camel.
I went out early in the morning before any other passenger was stirring, and examined the beasts with the eye of a connoisseur. They were all lying down and chewing the cud of content or some other kind of grass, and I endeavored to get on friendly terms with them. I patted one on the head and he resented the familiarity by endeavoring to bite a section from the seat of my trowsers.
This kind of performance was not calculated to secure my friendship and I moved on to another which the boy in charge insisted was tayb kateer (very good). He did not try to bite and as he was of goodly size I chose him. Then I proceeded to mount and took my seat in the saddle which had a strong resemblance to a wood-sawyer’s “horse” with a blanket over it. Now was the critical moment.
I grasped firmly the pommel of the saddle and also the cantle; as I did so, the boy pulled the camel’s halter and uttered something like “Hey da! Hey da!”
The camel lifted his shoulders and came up to his knees; then he brought up his hind quarters to the full height of the legs there, and finally he arose from his knees to his fore feet. The motion, so far as I was concerned, was a surge backward, then a surge forward, and finally a backward surge that subsided into a level. Here is the formula: Half the fore-legs, then all the hindlegs, then half the fore-legs. From a level you are pitched backward so that you could easily fall on your shoulders; an instant after, you find yourself inclined forward, and the next instant you are on the backward lean again, and subside into a level. I held on firmly, or I should have come to grief. I fancy the camel boys who stood around had several laughs at my precautions to prevent falling.
The camel kneels in the reverse of the motions of rising, i. e., half the fore-legs, all the hind-legs, and then half the fore-legs. When he is lying down his back is easily accessible for loading or mounting, but when he is up in the air he is a long way off.
I selected one of the largest beasts on purpose to know the sensation of being elevated. I expected to have a sense of insecurity and possibly of giddiness, but on the contrary experienced nothing of the kind.
On the score of beauty the camel has no reason to be proud. His neck and head are ill-shaped and suggest an overgrown turkey; his feet move awkwardly and with an appearance of gout, rheumatism, and spring-halt; his skin looks like an old boot that has been exposed to wind and rain for half a year; and his shape generally is as beautiful as that of a gnarly apple. My camel had a grotesquely colored skin; he had hair in spots and spots without hair, and what he had was of the shade of a very old buffalo robe. He had a sort of wool on his neck, but it was rather bunchy and looked as if his brother camels had browsed upon it; and his under-lip hung down like that of a boy who is about to whimper in expectation of a flogging.
When I mounted him, he arched his neck around like a snake and brought his head quite near mine, and at the same time began a noise that was a combination of screaming, bellowing, and groaning. He kept this up about half the time I was on his back, and altogether he made the journey a musical one.
The regular saddle for riding a camel is a sort of dish, in which you sit with your legs crossed over the animal’s neck or hanging down at will. You can have stirrups if you like, as a rest for the feet, and for a long journey the best plan is to sling a pair of well-filled saddle-bags or a couple of boxes over a common pack saddle, and arrange them in such a way that they form a level surface about six feet from side to side. Cover this with blankets, shawls, and a mattress, and roll up the sheets and pillow of your bed, and strap them to the back of the saddle so as to form a comfortable rest. Fasten a pair of stirrups to the saddlebow and have everything well strapped and corded so as to prevent slipping.
With this arrangement you can lean, lie down, sit sideways or cross-legged, or with your feet in the stirrups; and if you want to be luxurious, you can fasten a huge umbrella so as to shade you from the sun. A suggestion of my own is that you add a soda fountain, a billiard table, and a fish-pond, and also a light carriage for driving around your platform. Other comforts would doubtless occur to the imaginative reader.
There is a peculiar rocking motion to the camel, and the experienced rider moves his body backwards and forwards, bending at the hips, at each step of the beast.
The night after my camel ride, I dreamed that I had a backbone of glass, and could not move without breaking in two; and when I got up in the morning it seemed as if I was all backbone and that an iron rod had been passed through it for purposes of rigidity. I went around rather pompously for all that day, and I couldn’t have made a bow if I had been in front of the king of the Cannibal Islands and threatened with instant death for any appearance of incivility. I dropped my cane while walking on shore and had to hire an Arab to pick it up, and as for putting on my boots it was as great an effort as to turn a somersault in a peck measure. My camel was an ordinary baggage beast, and the saddle was such as they use for transporting freight around the cataract. The two round sticks that run from pommel to cantle were painfully perceptible beneath the blanket that hid them, and the rubbing, rocking motion over them made a couple of abrasions of the skin as large as a soda cracker.
The result of my camel riding was to teach a great deal of dignity, and to cause me to sit as little as possible in the presence of my elders or of any body else. What with stiffness and soreness I was not agile in my movements, and it took as long for me to sit down or rise from a seat, and was about as laborious, as to lay the corner-stone of an eight-story building.
From Assouan to the quarries the scenery was wild and striking, especially so at the point where we caught sight of the river and had Philae in the midst of the Nile as the centre of the picture. We had at one view the desert, black rocks and white sand, green trees, a flowing river, and the beautiful island with its coronet of temples. Under the tall trees on the river bank, there was a crowd of Arabs and Nubians, waiting for us to dismount, and beyond them lay the boats which were to ferry us over. The scene was unlike that of any other part of the Nile that we had yet encountered, and we readily realized that we had passed the frontier of Egypt and had entered Nubia.
Leaving my camel in the hands of his driver—a scantily-dressed boy of Nubian origin,—I entered the boat and waited till the rest of the party were on board. Half a dozen merchants of ostrich feathers and ornaments of silver were trying to strike up bargains, but did not create much business. In the river some Nubian urchins were sitting astride of logs and paddling about, and they showed great dexterity in balancing themselves. These logs are generally a foot in diameter and six or eight feet long, and you can see them lying around on the banks; they appear to be common property for use as ferry boats, but whether they are supplied by government I am unable to say. A native comes to the Nile and wishes to cross; he removes his clothing and makes it into a bundle that he places on the top of his head, and thus prepared he takes a log, strides it, plunges into the river and paddles over. On the other side he draws the log well on the land, and as soon as his body is dry he dons his clothing and moves on. Sometimes and generally he does not happen to have any clothing, and in this event he is saved a great deal of trouble.
Philæ has always excited the admiration of travellers, many of whom have characterized it as the most lovely spot they ever beheld.
To the ancient Egyptian it was the most sacred place on earth. It was the resting-place of his god of gods, the all-powerful Osiris, who was identified with the annual overflow of the Nile, and the consequent fertility of the land.
Hence arose the fable that his body was deposited in the cataract, whence he arose each year to enrich the earth.
Isis was the sister and wife of Osiris. On the monuments she is variously styled the “Mistress of Heaven,” the “Regent of the Gods,” the “Eye of the Sun.” A veil always hung before her shrine, which, said the well known inscription, “None among mortals have ever lifted up.” Sometimes she represented the land of Egypt, just as Osiris did its fertilizing river, the Nile.
Such were the deities to whose mysterious worship, Philæ, the Sacred Island, was solemnly dedicated.
The temple was beautifully situated, as it covered a considerable part of the Island, and must have appeared in the days of its glory very much as though it rose out of the water. It is comparatively modern, as the dates upon it do not go back beyond the XXXth Dynasty—about four hundred years B. C. The building was very irregular, and the indications are that it was the work of several architects at different periods. The propylon towers are massive, and rise to a height of nearly sixty feet above their base, affording a fine view of the island and its surroundings. The colors on the walls and towers are wonderfully preserved,—better than in most of the Egyptian temples,—and they present a beautiful effect.
The sky was clear and the air soft and balmy; a slight breeze shook the leaves of the trees and roughened the water of the river. To the north were the black rocks that marked the locality of the cataract, while to the south the Nile made a short bend among the Nubian hills and was speedily lost to view.
There is a sentimental poem on the “Long Ago” by an American author, which contains the following stanza:
“There’s a musical isle up the river Time,
Where the softest of airs are playing;
There’s a cloudless sky and a tropical clime,
And a song as sweet as the vesper chime,
And the tunes with the roses are straying.”
It may have been, and at all events it is pretty and poetical enough for the uses of anybody who ever ventured upon verse-making. If I wanted to cure anybody of the poetic mania Philæ would be the last place to which I should send him.
There are inscribed on the temple, chiefly on the pylon towers, the names of many persons who have visited the place within the past two hundred years. On the side of one of the doorways is an inscription in French, announcing that the army of Desaix reached the island of Philæ, at the time of the occupation of Egypt by the French under Bonaparte. The inscription remained untouched until 1848, when some English visitors effaced the words Buonaparte and Armée Française. An enthusiastic Frenchman, who had been up the river
to the second cataract, happened to visit the island on his return and found that the mutilation had occurred during his absence. He procured a pot of paint, restored the names and wrote beneath the inscription: “Une page d’histoire ne s efface pas!”
One of the most enterprising of modern travellers—so far as recording the fact of his visit is concerned—is a somebody from New York. He came here in 1870 and travelled, literally, not figuratively, with a paint pot and brush in his hand. On the pyramids, on the tombs at Sakkarah, on the walls of the temple at Karnak, at Edfou, Esneh, in fact everywhere along the Nile I saw his initials, “P. T., N. Y., 1870” I was told that his full name is Tucker; I hope it is at any rate, as it is not proper that such a genius should rest in obscurity. He smeared those initials where they were sure to be seen, and was not at all particular if he defaced a fine mural painting or sculpture by so doing. In the temple at Karnak, for example, he painted them in such a way as to deface a mural sculpture, and he did likewise at other places. If he could come here again, and under another name accompany a party like ours up the Nile, he would no doubt listen with pleasure to the compliments passed upon him.
Nearly everybody called him a first-class ass, an idiot, a fool; and some prefixed an adjective of a participial character to the word; and I heard several persons wish to wring his neck. I endeavored to reprove them, but it was of no use; and lest he should go down to the obscurity that he evidently dreaded, I embrace this opportunity to make known his name and valorous deeds.
An Englishman said to me one day while looking at the above inscription, “We have a good many human donkeys in England, but I think your countryman who did that is the grandest ass in the world.” My heart was so full just then that I could not rush to my compatriot’s defence, and I fear that my British friend believed I shared his opinion.
From the island we went to see the cataract, which is nothing more than a succession of rapids. In the time of the highest flood boats can ascend the cataract with the aid of a strong wind by their sails alone, but in ordinary stages they must be taken up by means of tow-ropes. From forty to sixty men are required, and the passage through the five miles of distance will take a whole day. The scene is quite picturesque and full of animation, especially when the rope breaks and lets the boat back over a distance that has been gained with much toil.
There is a sheik who has entire control of the passage of the cataract, and the contract must be made with him. It costs from ten to fifteen pounds to take a boat up from Assouan to Mahatta, a small village at the head of the falls, and sometimes the work will take three or four days.
At Mahatta we found our camels and donkeys, and returned by the bank of the river to Assouan. The Professor was on a camel of enormous size—so large in fact that I suggested the addition of a pilot house and steering gear to keep the animal in the road. We passed two or three villages where the natives offered us necklaces and polished agates for sale, and a few old coins. Skins of crocodiles were offered, and one native tried hard to palm off a lizard on us as a young crocodile.
Crocodiles, by the way, are quite scarce on the Nile below the First Cataract. We saw but one on our whole voyage; twenty years ago you might see two or three dozen of them in a day. In Nubia they are abundant enough, and further up the Nile you can see plenty of hippopotami. Not one of these beasts exists now below the second cataract, though less than sixty years ago one was killed in the delta below Cairo.
After several day’s stoppage at Assouan, we started back for Cairo. All steamboat travellers and most dahabeeah parties do not go beyond Philæ, and nearly all tourists who go further, end their voyage at Wady Haifa, the foot of the Second Cataract, two hundred and forty miles beyond Assouan.
Above Wady Haifa the river makes a wide bend into Dougoula; parties intending to proceed to Khartoum, at the junction of the Blue and White Nile, generally leave the river at Korosko, a hundred miles below Wady Haifa, and make a journey of eight days by camel across the desert to Aboo Hamed, where they take boats again on the river and save going around the bend After passing Khartoum there is good navigation on the Nile, for a long distance, and then—
Well, that is what explorers are endeavoring to find out.
CHAPTER XLIX—IN THE SLAVE-COUNTRY—SIR SAMUEL W. BAKER’S EXPEDITION.
The Egyptian Slave Trade—How carried on—An Army of Kidnappers—A Slave King—Frightful Scenes—Sir Samuel Baker’s Expedition—A Shrewd Move—Breech-loaders as Civilizing Agents—A Missionary Outfit—Starting for the Slave Country—Reluctant A lies—The “Forty Thieves”—Running against a Snag—The Sacred Egyptian Flower—The Lotos-Eaters, Who were They?—The New York Lotophagi—The Papyrus or Vegetable Paper—Capturing a Cargo of Slaves—The Plague of Flies—A few more “likely Niggers”—Marrying by Wholesale—A Fight with the Natives—The result of the Expedition.
I HAVE already alluded to the efforts of the Khedive to put an end to the slave trade in Central Africa, and to give that benighted part of the world some of the advantages of civilization.
Under some of the former rulers of Egypt the slave trade had been openly encouraged, while under others it was restricted, but not very forcibly. In 1869 the Khedive determined to make a formidable effort for its suppression. At that time the reports from Central Africa showed that the trade was mainly carried on by Egyptian subjects, most of them merchants of Khartoum. They were working on an extensive scale. They had organized companies of well armed brigands, and they sent out regular expeditions of these fellows into the country whence the slaves were drawn. Ostensibly these expeditions were for trading in ivory, but the chief and frequently the sole article of commerce sought was of a color quite the reverse of ivory. To such an extent was the business carried that large tracts of country were rendered almost desolate; whole villages were burned and their inhabitants killed, dispersed or captured, and sold into slavery, and all legitimate business seemed to be at an end. It was estimated that not less than fifteen thousand subjects of the Khedive were employed in trading inhuman flesh. Nearly the whole of the Nile basin beyond Khartoum was parcelled out among the traders, who worked together for the common good and conducted their razzias by means of their armed followers.
One of the traders claimed jurisdiction over ninety thousand square miles of territory, and could do as he pleased within its borders. The estimate of the number of slaves annually captured and sent out of the country was not less than fifty thousand. As the traders could penetrate into all the populous country and make their raids at will there was great insecurity of life and property. The Khedive determined to strike a blow for the suppression of this infamous business, and for this purpose an expedition was organized and Sir Samuel White Baker was assigned the supreme command for four years from April 1st, 1869.
This expedition was expected to subdue to the Khedive’s authority the countries situated to the south of Goudokoro; to suppress the slave trade; to introduce a system of commerce; to open to navigation the great lakes of the equator; and to establish military stations and commercial depots throughout Central Africa.
Baker was given absolute control of the men under him and of the country designated in the Khedive’s decree. He had even the power of life and death, and from his decisions there was no appeal.
It was decided that one of the first steps necessary in suppressing the slave trade was to “annex” the country of the Nile basin to Egypt. This would make it subject to Egyptian laws and would tend to the establishment of commerce more surely than if the region should remain independent and uncivilized. The inhabitants could learn to read and write, and could buy whiskey and tobacco; they could get drunk and steal, and otherwise be honored citizens, as if they were subjects of the Queen of England or the President of the United States. Instead of going about in nakedness they would have strings of beads to wear around their necks, and if prosperous and obedient they might hope for rings on their fingers, and in time for bells on their toes. Christianity and contagious diseases would be introduced; they would have debating societies, spelling matches, and caucusses, and all kindred institutions of a free people, and they might look forward to that millennial period when city halls and courthouses, and prisons, and jails, would rise in their midst to enrich the Ethiopian Tweeds and Sweeneys of that happy time. The heathen should no longer live in blindness and bow down to wood and stone. He should go to a fine church on Fifth avenue, listen to a popular preacher, and sing his hosannas by proxy through the mouths of a carefully selected and liberally paid quartette. It was expected that the natives would rush anxiously forward to listen to the proclamation of annexation.
To aid them to come to a favorable decision Sir Samuel was provided with a suitable number of breech-loading rifles with plenty of fixed ammunition, and with about sixteen hundred men to handle the rifles properly. This military force included two hundred irregular cavalry and two batteries. With such a missionary outfit as this it was thought there would be no trouble in convincing the untutored savages that it was a good thing to be annexed and civilized. The arms and equipments were carefully selected, and for the further purpose of convincing the natives three steamboats—built in sections so that they could be carried on camels—were taken along. Then there was a large supply of English cloth of different kinds, all sorts of tools and toys, musical boxes, cheap watches, and odds and ends of different kinds enough to stock a variety store at Christmas time.
After many delays and difficulties the expedition was off for Khartoum where it arrived in course of time. The official and other residents of Khartoum were not over friendly to the expedition, as the most of them had an interest in the slave trade, directly or otherwise, and some of the principal operators were on intimate terms with the governor. The latter had done nothing toward getting ready the vessels necessary for the expedition, but he went to work soon after Baker’s arrival and displayed considerable activity. After a while the expedition moved on with the two steamers which had been put together, and with a fleet of thirty-one sailing vessels. Altogether the command of Baker Pasha was somewhat more than a thousand men, the original number having been diminished by sickness, death, and desertion.
He had a special corps of forty-six men selected as a body guard and commanded by an Egyptian lieutenant-colonel. As the most of them were originally convicts sent from Cairo to the Soudan the contingent was known as the “Forty Thieves.” They were a brave lot of rascals and did most excellent service.
In this army of enterprise commanded by Baker Pasha, it did not appear necessary that the men that went out for soldiers should be of the best quality. Anything will do as food for powder, and when they prove as courageous as did the “Forty Thieves,” the wisdom of the selection is to be commended.
Baker proceeded up the Nile from Khartoum as fast as the winds and steam could carry him, and had no trouble for some days. His difficulties began when he reached a point where the river was blocked with a mass of reeds and vegetable matter through which the water managed to soak. But the boats could not find any passage and the expedition was compelled to halt.
At length thirty vessels were ordered to form in line single file, to cut a canal through the high water grass, but the operation was very fatiguing to the men and put a goodly number of them on the sick list. They made about a mile and a half the first day, and on the next the whole fleet was pushed forward about five miles, the mass of vegetation having diminished in quantity. But on subsequent days they were not so fortunate, and finally were forced to stop altogether. The mass of vegetable matter steadily increased, and finding the passage impossible Baker gave the order to return.
Among the plants that formed part of this, vegetable mass was the lotos, the flower that was considered sacred among the ancient Egyptians, and was cultivated in the little ponds at the sides of their temples. It is a species of water lily. Eleven varieties of the lotos are known; but only one is now found in lower Egypt, the leaves and flowers of which float upon the water. From representations on the walls of temples and tombs it is supposed that the sacred flower of ancient Egypt generally grew
in the edge of the water or in a moist place. The leaves and flowers were upheld above the surface by strong stalks. The pods and seeds of the lotos are eaten by the natives in Central Africa, and sometimes form their only article of food.
The Lotos-eaters, or Lotophagi, were described by Herodotus, who was vainly urged to eat of the plant. It was supposed that one who had eaten of the lotos would lose all desire to return to his native land, and be content to pass the rest of his days in dreamy rest. Tennyson has made use of this idea in one of his most charming poems.
A club known as the Lotos was formed in New York some years ago, and is yet in successful operation. But the digestive organs of its members and their guests are exercised upon beefsteak, potatoes, and kindred edibles much oftener than upon the African plant. In fact, I have never yet seen the article on their menu.
Further up the Nile its banks are covered with a dense vegetation which includes many kinds of tropical plants. The lotos rises from the water’s edge, and close beside it may be seen the papyrus, the plant whose name is preserved in the word “paper.”
As the expedition went back the channel which had been cut with so much labor was found to be freshly choked so that the return movement was nearly as slow as the advance.
On the advance up the river the governor of Fashooda, a station on the White Nile, had warmly commended the Khedive’s plan for suppressing the slave trade, and wished Baker the best of success. On the latter’s unexpected return he found the governor shipping a cargo of slaves down the river, and that several villages in the vicinity had been robbed of their inhabitants in order that the governor could make up his cargo. Baker captured the boat containing the slaves and had the captives brought out. There were seventy-one of them in all, and an examination of the shore revealed eighty-four additional slaves guarded by the governor’s soldiers!
The governor tried to explain that the prisoners were held as hostages until the rest of the people should pay their taxes. But as there was no fixed tax in the country the whole story was rather lacking in texture, in fact, was altogether “too thin.” The governor was somewhat annoyed at having been caught, and his principal consolation was that slave dealing was the chief business of the Soudan country, and that therefore he was no worse than his fellows.
Baker now descended the Nile to the mouth of the Sabat river, where he established a camp on a piece of high ground.
A garden was formed and planted, and in a short time a dozen varieties of vegetables were in rapid growth. Millions of white ants appeared and created great havoc among the stores of the expedition, and they were gallantly assisted by the rats which abound around the White Nile. Flies were very troublesome, and compelled the erection of dark stables for the horses, and even in these stables it was necessary to make smudges of burning horse dung to expel the annoying insects. The donkeys suffered likewise, but in spite of the flies they were found to keep their condition best in the open air, though their hair fell off and their skins assumed the appearance of India rubber. After a time they became accustomed to the situation; with all their persistence the flies were unable to appeal to the moral nature of the beasts.
Gristmills and sawmills were erected, and for the first time in the history of the world this part of the Nile basin resounded to the music so familiar to the valleys of the Penobscot and Kennebec. A small machine shop was opened, and there was much activity in the preparations for the next campaign to the south. The natives looked on wonderingly, and established the most friendly relations with the expedition. But it took them a long time to understand why the government should send an armed force to break up the slave trade, when its local officials were more or less engaged in that commerce. The untutored savage is quick at comprehending anything which an educated white man could not easily get through his head.
One day a sail-boat was discovered descending the river. It attempted to pass, but was brought to land, and at first glance appeared to be laden with corn. The captain and super-cargo protested that they had no slaves on board. An examination was made resulting in the discovery of a. hundred and fifty stowed away in the hold like sardines in a can. They were brought out—boys, girls, and women—all perfectly naked; their shackles were removed and the captain and supercargo were put in irons.
Next morning Baker gave free papers to the negroes, and gave them the choice of returning to their homes or making themselves useful about the camp. He told the women that if any of them wished to marry, they could possibly find husbands among his soldiers.
In the afternoon the officer in charge of the negroes came to inform Baker that all the women wished to marry, and had already selected their husbands. There was some difficulty about arranging the details, as the black women refused to marry the brown men of the Egyptian regiment. They didn’t want any dirty white trash, but had no objection to such soldiers as had the good fortune to be negroes.
Months were consumed in tedious and vexatious delays before the expedition arrived at Gondokoro. Here a station was established, a garden was planted, and the natives were made by various means to understand that the expedition had come there to stay, and occupy the country in the interest of freedom.
The natives were hostile, and were particularly enraged when told that the country was to be annexed to Egypt. On the 26th of May the ceremony was performed that added many thousand miles of territory to the dominions of the Khedive.
A flagstaff eighty feet high had been erected. The whole military force, consisting of twelve hundred men with ten pieces of artillery, was marched out and formed in a square around the flagstaff.
The official proclamation was read, and as the last words were pronounced, the Ottoman flag was run up, the officers saluted with their swords, the infantry presented arms, and the artillery fired a salvo which woke the echoes of Gondokoro and the surrounding country. But the soldiers of the expedition had become discouraged, and the mutinous spirit among the men finally broke out in the shape of written protests signed by all the officers, except those belonging to “The Forty Thieves.”
These protests were to the effect that the officers and soldiers were weary of the expedition, and wished to return to Khartoum.
Fights with the natives became of almost daily occurrence, and some of them assumed the importance of battles. But the arrows and spears of the natives and the few muskets they had obtained from the traders, were no match for the rifles of the Egyptians, and the fights invariably resulted in the defeat of the savage. But the movements of the expedition were retarded, and the little camp at Gondokoro was kept in a state of frequent alarm. Though the rebellious officers were silenced, their feelings were unchanged, and they did not rush eagerly into the fight when the bugle called to arms.
Still Baker persevered, and by his bravery and indomitable
energy the expedition was kept together. The sick and wounded were sent back to Khartoum, and the command was soon reduced to less than five hundred men of all ranks and occupations. Numerous expeditions were sent into the surrounding country, to the consternation of the natives, who were astonished at the appearance of the soldiers, especially as they were accompanied by music from the bugles of “The Forty Thieves” and the band of the Egyptian regiment.
At the expiration of his term of service, Baker descended the Nile and arrived at Cairo in August, 1873, where he was warmly received by the Khedive and decorated with the order of the “Medjidie.”
Colonel Gordon, whose name had become well known through his connection with the wars in China, and his organization of the army that received the title of “Ever Victorious,” was appointed to succeed Baker Pasha. Late in 1873 he proceeded to the Soudan, where he took command of the troops which had been left at Khartoum and Gondokoro. The expedition was reorganized, and in 1874 was ready to proceed. Fresh soldiers were sent from Cairo, a better equipment was given to the soldiers, and several of the foreign officers in the Khedive’s service were transferred to the Soudan. Arms, ammunition, goods, provisions, and all needed supplies were liberally provided, and the work of exploration and the suppression of the slave trade was actively pushed.
While I was in Egypt I became acquainted with two of the American officers who were to accompany Colonel Gordon, and they departed for the south during my stay at Cairo. They were Lieutenant-Colonel Long and Major Campbell, and both impressed me as able and efficient officers thoroughly devoted to their duty. As I write they are still in Equatorial Africa; the work of the expedition was expected to continue for three years from January, 1874, and is therefore far from complete.
The Khedive shows a determination to put an end to the barbarous traffic in humanity and to discover the sources of the Nile, thus setting at rest a question which has vexed the scientists from the days of Herodotus to our own. He has followed up his policy of annexation by taking the rich country of Darfoor under his standard and proclaiming it the territory of Egypt. Darfoor has long been at war with Egypt, and it is to be hoped that the annexation of the country will bring a lasting peace that will tend to agricultural and commercial development. The moral influence of breech-loaders and rifled artillery in the hands of Gordon and his energetic assistants is actively at work, and the results can be confidently expected at no distant day. The whole of Equatorial Africa will come under the sway of Egypt, and the old kingdom of the Pharaohs will assume an extent never dreamed of in the days of Isis and Osiris.
