FIG. 44 CALENDAR

The cloth is placed on the floor between the two distinct parts of the calender, threaded amongst the tension rails near the bottom roller or bowl, and then passed over two or more of the bowls according to the type of finish desired. For calender finish, the bowls flatten the cloth by pressing out the threads and picks, so that all the interstices which appear in most cloths as they leave the loom, and which are exaggerated in the plan view in Fig. 34, are eliminated by this calendering action. The cloth is then delivered at the far side of the machine in Fig. 44. If necessary, the surface speed of the middle or steam-heated roller may differ from the others so that a glazed effect--somewhat resembling that obtained by ordinary ironing--is imparted to the surface of the fabric. The faster moving roller is the steam-heated one. For ordinary calender finish, the surface speed of all the rollers is the same.

Another "finish" obtained on the calender is known as "chest finish" or "round-thread finish." In this case, the whole length of cloth is wound either on to the top roller, or the second top one, Fig. 44, and while there is subjected to the degree of pressure required; the amount of pressure can be regulated by the number of weights and the way in which the tension belt is attached to its pulley. The two sets of weights are seen clearly on the left in Fig. 44, and these act on the long horizontal levers, usually to add pressure to the dead weight of the top roller, but occasionally, for very light finishes, to decrease the effective weight of the top bowl. After the cloth has been chested on one or other of the two top bowls, it is stripped from the bowl on to a light roller shown clearly with its belt pulley in Fig. 41.

There are two belt pulleys shown on the machine in Fig. 44; one is driven by an open belt, and the other by a crossed belt. Provision is thus made for driving the calender in both directions. The pulleys are driven by two friction clutches, both of which are inoperative when the set-on handle is vertical as in the figure. Either pulley may be rotated, however, by moving the handle to a oblique position.

The compound leverage imparted to the bearings of the top bowl, and the weights of the bowls themselves, result in the necessary pressure, and this pressure may be varied according to the number of small weights used. The heaviest finish on the calender, i.e. the chest-finish on the second top roller, imitates more or less the "mangle finish."

FIG. 45 HYDRAULIC MANGLE.
By permission of Messrs. Urquhart, Lindsay & Co., Ltd.

A heavy hydraulic mangle with its accumulator and made by Messrs. Urquhart, Lindsay & Co., Ltd., Dundee, is illustrated in Fig. 45. The cloth is wound or beamed by the mechanism in the front on to what is termed a "mangle pin"; it is reality a thick iron bowl; when the piece is beamed, it is automatically moved between two huge rollers, and hydraulic pressure applied. Four narrow pieces are shown in Fig. 45 on the pin, and between the two rollers. There are other four narrow pieces, already beamed on another pin, in the beaming position, and there is still another pin at the delivery side with a similar number of cloths ready for being stripped. The three pins are arranged thus o°o, and since all three are moved simultaneously, when the mangling operation is finished, each roller or pin is moved through 120°. Thus, the stripped pin will be placed in the beaming position, the beamed pin carried into the mangling position, and the pin with the mangled cloth taken to the stripping position.

While the operation of mangling is proceeding, the rollers move first in one direction and then in the other direction, and this change of direction is accomplished automatically by mechanism situated between the accumulator and the helical-toothed gearing seen at the far end of the mangle. And while this mangling is taking place, the operatives are beaming a fresh set, while the previously mangles pieces are being stripped by the plaiting-down apparatus which deposits the cloth in folds. This operation is also known as "cuttling" or "faking." It will be, understood that a wide mangle, such as that illustrated in Fig. 45. is constructed specially for treating wide fabrics, and narrow fabrics are mangled on it simply because circumstances and change of trade from time to time demand it.

Fig 46 FOLDING, LAPPING OR PLEATING MACHINE
By permission of Messrs. Charles Parker, Sons & Co. Ltd.

The high structure on the left is the accumulator, the manipulation of this and the number of wide weights which are ingeniously brought into action to act on the plunger determine the pressure which is applied to the fabrics between the bowls or rollers.

Cloths both from the calender and the mangle now pass through a measuring machine, the clock of which records the length passed through. There are usually two hands and two circles of numbers on the clock face; one hand registers the units up to 10 on one circle of numbers, while the slower-moving hand registers 10, 20, 30, up to 100. The measuring roller in these machines is usually one yard in circumference.

If the cloth in process of being finished is for use as the backing or foundation of linoleum, it is invariably wound on to a wooden centre as it emerges from the bowls of the calender, measured as well, and the winding-on mechanism is of a friction drive somewhat similar to that mentioned in connection with the dressing machine. Cloths for this purpose are often made up to 600 yards in length; indeed, special looms, with winding appliances, have been constructed to weave cloths up to 2,000 yards in length. Special dressing machines and loom beams have to be made for the latter kind. When the linoleum backing is finished at the calender, both cloth and centre are forwarded direct to the linoleum works. The empty centres are returned periodically.

Narrow-width cloths are often made up into a roll by means of a simple machine termed a calenderoy, while somewhat similar cloth, and several types of cloths of much wider width, are lapped or folded by special machines such as that illustrated in Fig. 46. The cloth passes over the oblique board, being guided by the discs shown, to the upper part of the carrier where it passes between the two bars. As the carrier is oscillated from side to side (it is the right hand side in the illustration) the cloth is piled neatly in folds on the convex table. The carriers may be adjusted to move through different distances, so that any width or length of fold, between limits, may be made.

Comparatively wide pieces can be folded on the above machine, but some merchants prefer to have wide pieces doubled lengthwise, and this is done by machines of different kinds. In all cases, however, the operation is termed "crisping" in regard to jute fabrics. Thus, Fig. 47, illustrates one type of machine used for this purpose, and made by Messrs. Urquhart, Lindsay & Ca., Ltd., Dundee. The full-width cloth on the right has obviously two prominent stripes--one near each side. The full width cloth passes upwards obliquely a triangular board, and when the cloth reaches the apex it is doubled and passed between two bars also set obliquely on the left. The doubled piece now passes between a pair of positively driven drawing rollers, and is then "faked," "cuttled," or pleated as indicated. The machine thus automatically, doubles the piece, and delivers it as exemplified in folds of half width. In other industries, this operation is termed creasing and, rigging. Some of the later types of crisping or creasing machines double the cloth lengthwise as illustrated in Fig. 47, and, in addition, roll it at the same time instead of delivering it in loose folds.

FIG. 47 CRISPING, CREASING OR RIGGING MACHINE
By permission of Messrs. Urquhart Lindsay & Co. Ltd.

If the cloth is intended to be cut up into lengths, say for the making of bags of various kinds, and millions of such bags are made annually, it is cut up into the desired lengths, either by hand, semi-mechanically, or wholly mechanically, and then the lengths are sewn at desired places by sewing machines, and in various ways according to requirements.

FIG 48 SEMI-MECHANICAL BAG OR SACK CUTTING MACHINE
By permission of Messrs. Urquhart, Lindsay & Co. Ltd

Fig. 48 illustrates one of the semi-mechanical machines for this purpose; this particular type being made by Messrs. Urquhart, Lindsay & Co., Ltd., Dundee. About eight or nine different cloths are arranged in frames behind the cutting machine, and the ends of these cloths passed between the horizontal bars at the back of the machine. They are then led between the rollers, under the cutting knife, and on to the table. The length of cloth is measured as it passes between the rollers, and different change pinions are supplied so that practically any length may be cut. Eight or nine lengths are thus passed under the knife frame simultaneously, and when the required length has been delivered, the operative inserts the knife in the slot of the knife frame, and pushes it forward by means of the long handle shown distinctly above the frame and table. He thus cuts eight or nine at a time, after which a further length is drawn forward, and the cycle repeated. Means are provided for registering the number passed through; from 36,000 yards to 40,000 yards can be treated per day.

The bags may be made of different materials, e.g. the first four in Fig. 32. When hessian cloth, II, Fig. 32, is used, the sewing is usually done by quick-running small machines, such as the Yankee or Union; each of these machines is capable of sewing more than 2,000 bags per day. For the heavier types of cloth, such as sacking, S, Fig. 32, the sewing is almost invariably done by the Laing or overhead sewing machine, the general type of which is illustrated in Fig. 49, and made by Mr. D. J. Macdonald, South St. Roque's Works, Dundee. This is an absolutely fast stitch, and approximately 1,000 bags can be sewn in one day.

FIG. 49 OVERHEAD (LAING) SACK SEWING MACHINE
By permission of Mr. D. J. Macdonald

The distinctive marks in bags for identification often take the form of coloured stripes woven in the cloth, and as illustrated at S, Fig. 32. It is obvious that a considerable variety can be made by altering the number of the stripes, their position, and their width, while if different coloured threads appear in the same cloth, the variety is still further increased.

Many firms, however, prefer to have their names, trade marks, and other distinctive features printed on the bags; in these cases, the necessary particulars are printed on the otherwise completed bag by a sack-printing machine of the flat-bed or circular roller type. The latter type, which is most largely used, is illustrated in Fig. 50. It is termed a two-colour machine, and is made by Mr. D. J. Macdonald, Dundee; it will be observed that there are two rollers for the two distinct colours, say red and black. Occasionally three and four-colour machines are used, but the one-colour type is probably the most common.

FIG. 50 SACK PRINTING MACHINE
By Permission of Mr. D. J. Macdonald.

The ownership of the bags can thus be shown distinctly by one of the many methods of colour printing, and if any firm desires to number their bags consecutively in order to provide a record of their stock, or for any other purpose, the bags may be so numbered by means of a special numbering machine, also made by Mr. D. J. Macdonald.

The last operation, excluding the actual delivery of the goods, is that of packing the pieces or bags in small compass by means of a hydraulic press. The goods are placed on the lower moving table upon a suitable wrapping of some kind of jute cloth; when the requisite quantity has been placed thereon, the top and side wrappers are placed in position, and the pumps started in order to raise the bottom table and to squeeze the content between it and the top fixed table. From 1 1/2 ton to 2 tons per square inch is applied according to the nature of the goods and their destination. While the goods are thus held securely in position between the two plates, the wrappers a sewn together. Then specially prepared hoops or metal bands are placed round the bale, and an ingenious and simple system, involving a buckle and two pins, adopted for fastening the bale. The ends of the hoop or band are bent in a small press, and these bent ends are passed through a rectangular hole in the buckle and the pins inserted in the loops. As soon as the hydraulic pressure is removed, the bale expands slightly, and the buckled hoop grips the bale securely.

Such is in brief the routine followed in the production of the fibre, the transformation of this fibre, first into yarn, and then into cloth, and the use of the latter in performing the function of the world's common carrier.

Printed by Sir Isaac Pitman & Sons, Ltd., Bath, England

NORTHROP AUTOMATIC LOOM as used in the jute trade
Models for Cotton, Woolen, and Worsted, jute, linen, silk, etc.
All sizes from 28" to 120"