Conclusion:
Many different kinds of turtles make satisfactory additions for your collection. Actually, every one of our native turtles, at least when small in size, can be acceptable. Larger examples of some species, however, are sometimes unpleasant and even positively dangerous as members of your collection. Below is a list of those turtles that should be avoided by the amateur herpetologist:
Adults:
Common Snapping Turtles
Alligator Snapping Turtle[1]
Soft-shelled Turtles
Very Large Sliders
Musk Turtles
Mud Turtles
The larger species, or large adults of some species, tend to become aggressive and dangerous as they grow older, and many times a finger is mistaken for a morsel of food. Avoid the aforementioned turtles if your interest in these hard-shelled friends is new.
These are some turtles, of course, that can be handled without fear of biting or scratching. Any of the smaller species of sliders can make acceptable additions to your collection. Below is a list of those turtles that are, and may be handled and studied by the amateur:
Young:
Common Snapping Turtle
Soft-shelled Turtles
Sliders
Musk Turtles
Mud Turtles
Diamond Back Terrapin
Although young turtles make safe additions to your collection, land turtles of all kinds are best, seldom if ever bite, feed readily, and survive a long time in captivity. They include: Eastern, Florida, Three-toed, and Ornate Box Turtles, and the Red-Foot Tortoise. None of these are commonly available from commercial dealers, however.
D.J.C.
LIZARDS
(order Squamata) (suborder Lacertilia)
Keeping lizards as “pets” can be a very challenging task, because, it has been found that many species will not thrive in captivity.
When looking for a lizard to buy or catch, keep in mind some of the basic requirements the animal should have while you are choosing a lizard. The lizard should be alert and active. Check its mouth for signs of sores, bad teeth or gums, or other indications of mouth rot. Check the eyes for discharges, make sure the eyes are not sunken into the head. Observe it walking to insure that there is no damage to the limbs. Do not accept a lizard that has a discharge from the nose, this could be a symptom of a respiratory infection.
Lizards vary a great deal in their dietary requirements, therefore, it is very important that you are very sure of the animal’s identification before you purchase or collect it. You cannot always rely on the pet store dealer for an accurate identification. If the lizard is one that you have caught, then you can refer to a field guide for a positive identification.
Some lizards are strictly insect eaters, others eat only fruits and vegetables, some will only eat meat, a few lizards will only eat eggs, and then there are some that will eat nearly anything. Most insectivores will only eat live insects. If it is hard to get live insects, you may be able to get the lizard to accept dead food by offering it on the end of a thin wire. By moving the insect, the lizard will think it is alive, and often will grasp the food. Insectivores require a large amount of food, and the food should be varied: don’t feed all meal worms, or all crickets, but try to offer a variety of insects.
The vegetarians or herbivores need to be fed a mixed variety of fruits and vegetables. Often, color will induce a lizard to eat, so always include some apple or tomato to the diet if the lizard doesn’t seem interested in food. The meat eaters are often the easiest to induce to eat. Canned dog food is usually used as a basic, but whole mice are much more of a balanced diet. Sometimes it is necessary to skin the mouse in order to get the lizard to eat it. Whatever dietary requirements your lizards have, their food should be supplemented with a vitamin and mineral powder. Steamed bone meal is often used. Just sprinkle a small amount on the food, and then mix it in so the lizards will take it in with their food.
Although the size of the cage is usually not critical for lizards, cage props may be essential in order to insure that the animal thrives. If the lizard is a burrower in the wild then it is often necessary that it be able to burrow in captivity. If the animal is normally arboreal, Then you must have a branch for it to climb on. Because of this, it is most important that you know what species of lizard you have; then learn as much as possible about its habits and habitat.
Besides cage decorations, always have clean drinking water in the cage. Many species of lizards do not drink from a water dish. They obtain their water from dew drops or rain drops that they lap with their tongues. It is advisable to spray the lizards’ cage daily with a fine mist of warm water.
Common Iguana
Iguana iguana
An important requirement for lizards is sunlight. Often, a lizard seems to be eating and doing well in captivity, but suddenly dies. This may be due to a lack of sunlight. In many instances the animal may not eat at all. If direct sunlight is not available, it can be substituted by the use of a vita-lite bulb. This bulb, which looks like a fluorescent bulb, can often be purchased from a large plant store or directly from the manufacturer.
Lizards often have a more precise temperature requirement than other reptiles. A daytime temperature range of 85 to 90°F, and dropping to 80°F at night is usually best for the tropical species. Many of the North American desert species also require a high daytime temperature. Adult tegus and monitors can be kept at slightly lower temperatures, usually from 72 to 76°F. As with snakes, the temperature in the lizard cage can be controlled with a light bulb. The size of the cage will determine the size of the bulb needed. As previously stated, temperature can be critical, and many lizards will die if not kept warm enough. Never guess at the cage temperature—always have a small thermometer in the cage, and check it often.
Keeping lizards healthy can be a challenging but also frustrating experience. There is very little information available on lizard diseases. These reptiles are susceptible to many of the diseases that snakes get, and often the symptoms are the same. Lizards can get mouth rot, respiratory infections, parasites (both internal and external), eye infections, and other common reptile diseases. One disease that is common in lizards is impaction of the intestines. This is common in insect eaters that are being fed only meal worms. Often, the impaction is not noticed until after the animal dies. If the lizard is alone, keep track of its food intake and fecal output. If an extended period goes by and the lizard is not making fecal matter, then there could be a physical blockage in the intestine. Put a little mineral oil up the cloaca—this will help to loosen the blockage. The best cure is preventive procedures. Feed a variety of insects if possible, but don’t feed all meal worms.
The other diseases that lizards are susceptible to can be treated by using the same medications used for snakes. Dosages, of course, must be less, for we are usually dealing with a much smaller animal.
Good husbandry along with preventive medicine are the best ways to keep your lizard healthy. Keep the cage clean, feed a proper diet, supply sunlight or artificial light, and most important: know the lizards’ requirements and natural history.
The following is a list of lizards that usually can be kept successfully in captivity:
| Green Iguana: | A lizard from Central and South America, mostly herbivorous, is arboreal, and can grow to 6 feet. |
| Tegu: | A large carnivore from South America, feeds on mice, not tame. |
| Monitors: | Large carnivores from the Old World, most do well. |
| Glass Lizards: | Insectivores from North America, will eat dog food, tail breaks off easily. |
| Tokay Gecko: | Will eat any small animal or insect. Make good pets. |
| Amevias: | Same as tegu. |
Great Plains Skink
Eumeces obsoletus
Most lizards from Missouri should be kept during the summer, then released in early fall where they were collected. Lizards that do not make good pets are: horned lizards, anoles, collared lizards and fence lizards.
As with all animals, there are exceptions to the rule; an iguana may refuse to eat, or a collared lizard may do well for years. Each reptile within a species may act differently from how the whole species may act in captivity. Knowing the lizards’ habitat and habits will be the deciding factor in keeping the animal alive and healthy in captivity.
R.N.B.
SNAKES
(order Squamata) (suborder Serpentes)
There are many species of snakes throughout the world (over 2,700 species). Some of these make very good “pets”, while others never seem to thrive in captivity. Because of the many varieties of snakes, the care of them can vary quite a bit. There are a few basic needs that all snakes, regardless of the species, require in order to do well in captivity.
All snakes are carnivorous. They eat only whole animals. This food may vary from termites to rabbits—with all types of animals in between. This sometimes includes other snakes.
Snakes require clean drinking water, a clean cage to live in, and an all around healthy environment.
The above requirements are easy to meet, but they must not be treated lightly. After the basics are met, there are other requirements that individual species may need.
A common problem with keeping snakes is they often will not eat. Sometimes the reason is simply that they are not satisfied with their environment. Snakes that are arboreal will need a limb in their cage. If they don’t have something to climb on they may refuse to eat. Tropical snakes require a higher cage temperature than what is normal room temperature. This can be accomplished by putting a heat lamp above the cage. Always monitor the temperature with a thermometer and try to maintain it around 85°F. Certain species of snakes spend a great deal of time burrowing, and unless they can burrow in their cage they may not eat. Many of the more nervous species of snakes, like the racers, require a hiding box so that they will feel secure. The hiding box is often a good idea for any snake that may refuse to eat if all other conditions are favorable.
Speckled King Snake
Lampropeltis getulus holbrooki
Food preference can be an important factor, even with snakes of the same species. Snakes from aquatic habitats generally eat only fish and amphibians. Non-constricting snakes (racers and coachwhip snakes) generally do not eat large rodents or birds, but limit their diet to amphibians, baby rodents, bird eggs, lizards, and even small snakes. The constrictors are usually entirely rodent and bird feeders. There are of course, exceptions, and some snakes, like the large (non-constricting) eastern indigo, Drymarchon corais couperi, which will eat nearly anything from toads and frogs to adult rats. Just as species of snakes vary in their diet, so do individuals within a species. Fortunately this is not very common. There are cases of a particular snake eating only a specific food animal. If a rat snake is not eating mice, it might be induced to feed on a different type of rodent or a bird. Many snakes in the wild are nocturnal, and sometimes a particular snake will only eat if fed at night, with all the lights out.
Always feed the rodent eaters dead food. Often, this will cause a problem with newly collected animals, but with a little time, your snake will usually learn to accept dead food. The reason for feeding dead food animals is to protect the snake from getting a serious bite from a rat or mouse. If the snake is feeding on insects, fish, or amphibians, the food can simply be placed in the cage with the snake. If there is more than one snake in the cage, you should observe the feeding so as to insure that one snake does not swallow the other snake along with its meal. If one or both snakes are nervous feeders, they should be separated during the feeding procedure.
Occasionally, one will come across a snake that will absolutely refuse to eat under any type of condition. Even though snakes can go for months without food, eventually a snake will starve to death. If a snake doesn’t eat, it is most advisable to try to release it in an area where it is native to. Ideally, it should be released where it was collected. If the snake is not native to your area, you may have to force feed the snake—as a last resort. It is usually best to try to force a small food animal into the snake. Always use a blunt, rounded rod and be very careful not to injure the gums or mouth of the snake. Snakes can be sustained for long periods of time by force feeding, but this procedure will only forestall death for a short time in many cases.
Once your snake proves to be a “feeder”, your next major concern is health. Snakes, like other animals, are susceptible to many types of diseases. Many of these diseases can be prevented with good husbandry practices.
A common ailment is mouth rot or canker mouth. This is a bacterial infection of the mouth and gums that generally starts from an injury to the snake’s mouth. The first symptoms are sores in the mouth—especially along the edges of the gums. As the disease progresses a white cheesy-like substance is formed in the mouth and under the lips. The more advanced the infection, the more substance is formed. Although the actual mouth rot might not kill the snake, the animal will often refuse food, and is also very susceptible to secondary infections, which could be fatal.
Treatment in the early stages is very simple, and can be very successful. Many different drugs can be used, most of which have a sulphur base. Sul-met is a common medication that is often used. Treatment is by making a solution according to directions, and then irrigating the infected mouth two or three times a day. Also, add some medication to the drinking water. More advanced cases would need to be treated with anti-biotic injections. Dosage depends on the size of the snake and the concentration of the medication.
Respiratory infections are a major concern to anyone keeping snakes. They generally catch colds from being kept in drafts or at low temperatures for an extended length of time. The species of snake will determine its temperature requirements. A native North American snake will have a higher tolerance for cooler temperatures than a snake from the tropics.
The first symptom of a respiratory infection to look for would be bubbles in the mouth. As the cold advances, bubbles will be blown out the nose, and the mouth will become full of mucus. Untreated, a cold can develop into pneumonia and cause death. Treatment is easy and effective if given soon enough. First, keep the snake warm. A temperature between 80 to 88°F is recommended. The snake will need injections of an antibiotic, such as tetracycline or chlormyciten. The size of the snake will determine the dosage. The injections are usually given at daily intervals for several days. If you are in an area where there is a veterinarian that can treat exotic animals, he should be consulted before any treatment is used.
There are several other physiological diseases that snakes are susceptible to, but the above mentioned are the most common.
Knowing your snake and observing it daily will be a good way to keep track of its health. Any unusual activity could be an indication of an illness. Refusing to eat; regurgitation after eating; inactivity for long periods of time; or even difficulty in shedding its skin, are all signs that something may be wrong with your reptile. Keeping good records on the snake will be very beneficial in determining if the snake is acting normal or not. Write down when and what the snake eats, when it sheds (you may want to measure the skin each shedding to see if the snake has grown), when there is a stool, and if the animal regurgitates. The above are some of the basic routine procedures that should be kept track of in order for you to better determine the health of your snake.
The second major health problem you may have to deal with is parasites: both internal and external. There are many types of internal parasites which snakes are susceptible to. Only proper diagnosis of the type of parasite will determine the right medication for treatment. Determining the type of parasite involved is done by fecal analysis. If a snake is eating and losing weight, or if it regurgitates a day or so after eating, then there is reason to suspect worms. Worming of snakes is a simple procedure, but it must not be done unless you are using the proper medicine. Most worming medications are in liquid form, and they can be squirted down the snake’s throat, or injected into a food animal. Any snake that is suspected of having parasites, or any new snake in your collection should have a fecal analysis done by a veterinarian.
External parasites are of two types: mites and ticks. Ticks are usually encountered on newly purchased or captured specimens. Removal is done by pulling them off with a pair of forceps. Try to get all of the tick out from under the skin.
Mites can be a serious problem and once they appear in a collection, they may show up again and again, even after it was thought that they had all been eradicated. Mites appear as little tiny black specks which are most often seen on the lower jaw and around the eyes. They are often seen in the water dish even before they are seen on the snake. Control is very simple. The No-Pest strip is very effective in controlling mites. It is generally recommended to attach a piece of the strip on the inside top of the cage. Since the vapor fumes are heavier than air, they will float to the bottom of the cage. The water dish should thus be taken out of the cage, but everything else, including the snake, should be left in the cage. Allow the strip to remain in the cage for two days. Remove the strip, thoroughly disinfect the cage and all decorations in it. The strip will have killed all the adult mites, but not the eggs. It is most important to replace the strip in about two weeks, then repeat the cleaning procedure. The No-Pest strip will also help to control ticks and flies.
Housing requirements are not as critical for snakes as they may be for other amphibians and reptiles. Some collectors build their own cages, others use store bought cages. This author prefers glass aquarium-type cages, with screen tops. The aquarium-type is easy to clean. It is often recommended to darken three sides of the aquarium, in order to give the snake a sense of security. Cage bedding is up to the keeper. Natural rock or sand may look good, but are much harder to keep clean. It is recommended that newspaper be used on the bottom of your aquarium or wooden snake cage.
The amount of space required by your snake is rather small. Snakes spend so much time coiled up in one corner, or on a tree branch, that the large snake cage is of little value. A cage the size of a 10-gallon aquarium will be large enough for all but the large pythons or boas (over 5 feet). Remember to keep the snake’s native habitat in mind if you are going to decorate the cage. A snake cage should not be kept wet or even damp. Even water snakes need only a dish of water for drinking.
What snake makes the best pet is a hard question to answer. The following list will give you an idea of some of the species commonly kept as “pets”:
Rat Snakes (genus Elaphe), rodent eaters from eastern and southern U.S., average size up to 4 feet. Are prone to bite when first caught, but usually tame down. The red rat snake (Elaphe g. guttata) is one of the most beautiful of North American snakes.
King Snakes and Milk Snakes (genus Lampropeltis), usually eat small rodents, lizards, and small snakes. Disposition, same as rat snakes.
Bull Snake (Pituophis melanoleucus sayi), a large constrictor, and the largest snake native to Missouri. Will eat adult rats, mice, and baby chicks. Usually do well in captivity.
Water Snakes (genus Natrix), will eat minnows, frogs, tadpoles, and sometimes mice. They will bite when captured, and will at times continue to bite after being in captivity for a long time.
Hognosed Snake (genus Hetrodon), a smaller variety, averages 2 to 2½ feet. Feeds only on toads, but nearly always eats in captivity.
Boa Constrictor (Boa constrictor), one of the most commonly kept snakes. Being a tropical snake—it must be kept warm (80 to 88°F). Will eat rodents and birds.
Burmese python (Python molurus bivittatus), which may reach 20 to 24 feet long, is often kept as a pet by the amateur snake collector. They require the same temperature and food as the boa constrictor.
Reticulated Python (Python reticulatus), same as the Burmese python, but will grow longer. Large specimens will eat rabbits.
African Rock Python (Python sebae), same in general needs as the Burmese Python. Will grow slightly longer, and may not tame as easily as some other species. Large specimens will eat rabbits.
Ball Python (Python regius), another species from Africa, but averages 3 to 4 feet in length. Usually a good feeder on rodents, but at times may only eat birds. Require the same needs as other tropical species.
Black Rat Snake
Elaphe o. obsoleta
The following is a list of snakes that may have a few drawbacks as pets, or are not recommended to keep in captivity:
Racers and Coachwhips (Coluber and Masticophis), very nervous ... seldom eat in captivity.
Ringneck, Brown, and other small burrowing snakes; these secretive species often will not eat in captivity, and require animal foods which may be difficult to secure.
Ribbon, Garter, and Green snakes; because they may be hard to feed in winter, it is best to keep only during the summer months.
Eastern Indigo Snake (Drymarchon corais couperi), this species is protected in the state of Florida, and is becoming rare over all its range.
Cook’s Tree Boa (Corallus enydris cookii), this species, as well as other tree boas, often have a bad disposition, and may feed only on birds.
Emerald Tree Boa (Corallus canina), not only does this species prefer birds to eat, they also seem to require a very high humidity.
Most tropical snakes do not do well in captivity. This may be due to the fact that they are taken out of their natural environment and it is next to impossible to duplicate the climatic conditions that they are used to.
Although the above lists are far from complete, it is hoped that they will give the reader some basic ideas on how to select the snakes for his small, home collection. Once again, it should be emphasized that within a particular species of snake, there may be some differences in individual personalities. It is possible to get a black rat snake that doesn’t eat, or a racer (genus Coluber) that does not bite and eats well in captivity. A person should learn from their own experiences, and also from the experiences of others, both professional and amateur.
The keeping of snakes can be a very rewarding and enjoyable experience, but it must be remembered that it is also a responsibility. You are responsible for the care and well-being of the animal. You must learn as much as possible about the requirements of a particular snake before you decide to keep it as a “pet”.
R.N.B.