OIL BURNING LOCOMOTIVES
1. Q. What are the fireman's duties on arrival at the enginehouse previous to going out on an oil burning locomotive?
A. In addition to the duties usually performed on any engine, the fireman should observe the condition of draft pans and arch, observe the condition of burner and dampers; try the oil regulating valve; see that the burner is properly delivering fuel oil to the fire; see that the oil heaters are in working order; that the fuel oil is heated to proper temperature; and see that proper supplies of fuel oil, sand and water have been provided as well as the necessary tools for handling an oil fire.
2. Q. How warm should the oil be at all times in the tank.
A. Warm enough to flow freely at all times, usually about 112 degrees. This temperature is about that which the hand can bear on the outside of the tank.
3. Q. If the oil is too warm, what happens?
A. Many of the good qualities of the oil may be lost by keeping it too warm, and the burner is more difficult to operate and does not work as well when the oil is kept at too high a temperature. Should the oil be too warm, it will give off too much gas which would be liable to cause an explosion in the oil tank.
4. Q. What tools are necessary for firing purposes on an oil burning locomotive?
A. The tools necessary for firing an oil burning engine include sand horn, brick hook, and a small iron bar to be used in cleaning carbon from the mouth of the burner.
5. Q. What is liable to happen if the heater valve is open too much?
A. If the heater valve is opened too much it would be liable to burst the heater hose as well as to heat the oil to a too high temperature and place an unnecessary strain on all the heater connections, causing them to leak.
6. Q. What should be done on approaching stations where additional supply of fuel oil is to be taken?
A. Shut off the fire, close safety and main oil valves, remove any lamps that are so close as to be unsafe when manhole cover is open.
7. Q. What care must be exercised in the use of lamps, torches or lanterns about oil tanks whether hot or cold?
A. Never permit oil lamps or oil torches to be carried within ten feet of the tank opening. Only incandescent lamps or pocket flash lights should be used around oil tank manhole when taking oil.
8. Q. How can oil in the tank be measured without taking a light to the manhole?
A. By inserting a measuring stick into oil in tank and taking stick to the light for reading.
9. Q. What precautions must be taken before entering tanks that have been used for oil to clean or make repairs?
A. Oil tanks, before being entered by workmen, should be thoroughly steamed and cooled before being entered. For safety they should be steamed from six to eight hours.
10. Q. How should the fire be lighted in an oil burning locomotive?
A. First see that no one is working under the engine, that there is the proper amount of water in the boiler and that it will flow through the gauge cocks, that there is no accumulation of oil in the ash-pan or fire-box or existing leaks throughout. If there is no steam in the boiler, the steam connections can be made to the three-way cock at the smoke-arch that will answer for blower and atomizer. If there are twenty pounds of steam in the boiler, it can be operated with its own blower. If oil in the tank is too cold to flow into the burner readily, it must be heated. Open the front damper and put on the blower strong enough to create the necessary draft, open the atomizer valve long enough to blow out any water that might be in the steam pipe to the burner, then close the valve and throw a piece of burning waste in front of the burner and open the atomizer valve enough to carry oil to the burning waste and open the regulating valve slowly until the oil is known to be ignited. Watch the ignition through the hole in the fire-box door, then regulate the steam and oil supply to suit. Be sure that no oil is wasting below the burner or an explosion may result that will prove disastrous.
11. Q. Should the fire go out and it is desired to rekindle it while bricks are hot, is it safe to depend on the hot bricks to ignite the oil without the use of lighted waste?
A. No; depending upon the heat from the firebricks to re-light the fire is dangerous and forbidden.
12. Q. What is termed an atomizer, and what does it perform?
A. The atomizer is a casting containing two long ports with an extension lip; the upper port is for oil and the lower one for steam. The lip aids the steam in atomizing and spreading the oil, which, when properly mingled with the air and ignited, will produce combustion. The atomizer is located just under the mud-ring and pointed a little upward, so the stream of oil and spray of steam would strike the opposite wall a few inches above the bottom if it would pass clear across the fire-box.
13. Q. In starting or closing the throttle of the locomotive, how should the fireman regulate the fire, in advance or after the action of the engineer?
A. In starting an oil burning engine the oil should gradually be brought up as the throttle is opened and the movement and amount of oil should be kept slightly in advance of the action of the engineer in order to prevent an inrush of cold air as the engine is working, which would result in injury to the fire-box and flues. When the throttle is to be closed, the fire should be reduced very slightly in advance of the closing of the throttle. This is to prevent the engine from popping off and black smoke drifting back over the train.
14. Q. Is it necessary that the engineer and fireman on an oil burning locomotive work in perfect harmony and advise each other of intended action at every change of conditions?
A. Yes; they should work in harmony with each other on any locomotive. The fireman should watch every move the engineer makes, and the engineer should advise the fireman of every intended change of the throttle, so he can operate his valves accordingly and save fuel and avoid black smoke.
15. Q. What is the effect of forcing the fire on an oil burning locomotive?
A. Forcing the fire is very hard on fire-box sheets and flues, and will cause them to leak. An even temperature should be maintained in the fire-box of any locomotive.
16. Q. Is a careful regulation of steam and oil valves and dampers necessary to obtain the most economical results?
A. Yes; the fireman's oil valve should be opened just wide enough to permit a sufficient amount of oil to be fed to produce a good fire, but not wide enough to waste oil or produce a volume of black smoke.
17. Q. How can you judge whether the combustion is good or bad, so the valve may be regulated accordingly?
A. By the color of the fire in the fire-box. When it is a dull red color, the temperature is below 1,000 degrees and combustion is incomplete, dense black smoke will issue from the stack. If it is a bright red, the temperature will be about 1,800 degrees and combustion very good, and no black smoke will appear from the stack.
18. Q. How should the flues be cleaned from soot when running, and about how often is this necessary?
A. By placing a small quantity of sand in an elbow shaped funnel or horn, and by inserting same in an opening provided in fire door while engine is working hard, allowing the exhaust to draw the sand through the flues, thus cutting soot and gum from them in its passage and discharging it from the stack. It is necessary that the flues be cleaned of soot on leaving terminals or sidings where the engine has been at rest for any length of time, and also as often as found necessary to aid the engine in steaming. This depends to a great extent upon the degree of perfection with which combustion is obtained. Attention should also be given flues just prior to entering points where engine is to be put in roundhouse or otherwise detained in order to leave the flues clean, as this will aid in putting engine under steam with little delay where the blower alone is to be relied on for draft.
19. Q. Is the injudicious use of the blower particularly injurious on an oil burning locomotive?
A. Yes; the injudicious use of a blower is injurious to any boiler. The cold air drawn through the fire-box is hard on the sheets and flues and will cause them to leak.
20. Q. Is the blower more injurious when a light smoke is emitting from the stack or when a dense black smoke is emitting?
A. It is most injurious when a light smoke is emitting.
21. Q. In drifting down long grades should the fire be shut off or burned lightly? Why?
A. The fire should be burned lightly and not permitted to get low enough to allow the fire-box to lose its temperature, as this will contract the flues and cause them to leak.
22. Q. How should the fire be handled when switching?
A. The fire must be regulated to meet the requirements of the work the engine is performing on each move and to protect against any possibility of the fire being drawn out by the exhaust.
23. Q. Would not some fuel be wasted in this way?
A. Not necessarily. A waste of fuel can be avoided by close attention on the part of the fireman when switching as well as when running.
24. Q. How should the fire be handled when leaving stations?
A. It should be burning brightly and strong enough to prevent the draft from putting it out when the throttle is opened. And a little smoke should show up at the stack, which would indicate that the fire was being forced just a little ahead of the working of the engine.
25. Q. Which is desirable, to use as much or as little steam jet atomizer as possible?
A. It is desirable to use as little atomizer as will make engine show perfect combustion and economy.
26. Q. What is the result of too little steam jet atomizer when standing at stations or when the engine is working light?
A. The result of too little atomizer when standing at station or when engine is working lightly, will result in the oil not being carried far enough into the fire-box or arch and not properly atomized and the fire is liable to go out. The oil will drop from the mouth of the burner into the draft pan to the ground where it is very liable to start a fire under the engine.
27. Q. If too much steam jet atomizer is used with a light fire?
A. It will create a disagreeable gas, which will cause the fire to burn with a succession of light explosions and kicks, also a waste of steam, and which would reduce the fire-box temperature.
28. Q. When the fire kicks and smokes, what should be done?
A. The atomizer should be adjusted. If this does not overcome the trouble, the heater should be put in service, for, possibly, the oil is too cold to flow freely. Another cause of the fire kicking and smoking results from water being mixed with the oil. If this is the case, it should be drained out of the oil tank immediately.
29. Q. How should the dampers be used on an oil burning locomotive?
A. They should be opened just enough to admit sufficient air to produce perfect combustion, but not enough to cool the fire-box. The dampers should be closed when the engine is drifting or when at rest and the fire is cut very low or is out entirely.
30. Q. About how much smoke do you consider an oil burning locomotive should make under adverse conditions, when the engine is steaming well, but is being crowded by the engineer?
A. Only a light smoke should show at the stack.
31. Q. What color is most desirable at peep holes in the fire-box?
A. A white color is most desirable.
32. Q. What will produce the bright red color?
A. Leaky steam pipes, side seams, flues and improper combustion will produce a ruddy color in the fire-box.
33. Q. How does water in the oil affect the fire?
A. Water in the oil will produce popping or kicking with the fire in the fire-box and at times the fire will die down entirely and then flash up as the water disappears and the oil reaches the burner. The most noticeable result of water in the oil is the fact that the fire will get very low. It will almost go out entirely and then will suddenly flash up again as the oil appears. Water in the oil produces a very dangerous condition and should be prevented immediately by draining the water from the fuel oil tank.
34. Q. Do you consider it advisable to keep the burners clean, and how often?
A. When equipped with steam blow-out pipes, they should be blown out before commencing trip so that burners will distribute oil evenly to each side of fire-box.
35. Q. What position should burner be with reference to level and in line with center of fire-box?
A. It is very essential that burners be level and throw flames just to clear floor of arch in order to derive full benefit of heating surface, as the draft has a great tendency to elevate flames, at opposite end of the fire-box.
36. Q. Are you aware that in course of time the atomizer port will become worn too large and will discharge too large a volume of steam to properly atomize, and the remedy?
A. Yes; the lip or bushing should be closed to proper opening so that steam will be restricted at the nozzle and escape with a bursting effect to properly atomize the oil instead of flowing out in quantities against flash walls before it has time to ignite.
37. Q. What is the real object of having the fire-box lined with bricks, and will engine steam without them?
A. Not so well as with the brick, the sheets being in contact with water are too cool to flash the oil readily and hence the use of what is called a "flash wall" built of fire brick and heated to a very high temperature aids combustion very materially.
38. Q. Do you consider it your duty to keep close inspection of brick work as to need of repairs, such as air entering between brick and side sheets?
A. Yes. To see that plaster is kept between the walls and sheets to keep cold air from being drawn in.
39. Q. Will engine steam if brick falls in front of burners or in path of flame and what may be done?
A. No. Remove them with the brick hook or rod by pulling them out through damper of draft pan.
40. Q. Where engine is equipped with an oil-reheater or oil line, do you consider it a help to engine's steaming qualities when used?
A. Yes; at all times this heater should be used.
41. Q. Why use second heater? Why not heat it to a high temperature in oil tank with oil heater?
A. Too much gas generating and boiling the oil continually destroys the higher qualities besides being hard to control the flow through regulation valve.
42. Q. Do you consider a vent hole in oil tank advisable, and why?
A. Yes; to allow any accumulation of gas to escape and to admit the air so that oil will flow freely.
43. Q. Do you inspect your oil pipes and report all leaks? What other bad effect has a pipe leak aside from waste of oil?
A. Yes. It will cause oil to feed irregularly.
44. Q. Are you aware that keeping the flues clean is the greatest one thing that you can do in regard to fuel economy, and how often should they be cleaned?
A. Yes. At least every ten miles.
45. Q. Do you know that the engine should be working hard and at a speed not less than twenty miles per hour when sanding flues to avoid the sand falling to floor of the fire-box and accumulating in front of them?
A. Yes.
46. Q. Do you realize that on first closing throttle you should not adjust fire too low? Explain best method.
A. Yes. I would allow steam pressure to fall back some fifteen pounds before throttle is closed and on having closed same leave a good fire in box, allowing it to cool gradually to avoid leaky flues, broken staybolts, cracked sheets caused by sudden fall of temperature.
47. Q. How is the flow of oil controlled?
A. By the valves in tank and pipe connections.
48. Q. Name these valves, their location and purpose.
A. The safety valve controls the flow of oil from the fuel oil tank through an opening in bottom sheet of tank to the pipes leading to burner. This valve is forced to its seat by a heavy spring and is held off its seat by a key in the upright rod extending above the top of tank. To this key a rope or chain is attached and also attached to the cab to cause the pin in rod to be pulled in case of a separation between engine and tank and allow the valve to be seated by its spring and avoid a waste of oil. The second or main oil valve is located in oil pipe under deck leading to burner. It is usually of the plug-cock pattern connected by bell crank and this connected to some part of the engine by chain, in which case it also acts as a safety valve in case of separation between engine and tender. In other cases it is connected by an operating rod extending above deck of tender where it can be operated by hand in case of safety valves failure to shut off the flow of oil. The third or firing valve is usually located between heater box and burner, and is provided with an upright rod extending into cab where it is provided with a handle or lever in position to be conveniently handled by fireman while seated in cab. This valve regulates the flow of oil desired to reach the fire.
49. Q. When shutting out fire which valve should be closed first? Why?
A. The safety valve. To allow the oil in pipes to be consumed and to see that this valve is in working order.
50. Q. Should safety valve fail to shut off the flow of oil in such cases would it be safe to rely on the firing valve to shut off the fire?
A. No. The main valve should then be closed.
51. Q. Should the firing valve be depended upon to shut off the fire at any time? Why?
A. No. From constant use they are frequently leaking and the trouble is not detected while in use, and again there is always danger of the handle being moved by workmen or others about the cab.
52. Q. What is a heater box?
A. It is an apparatus having two passages, one for steam passing from boiler to heater pipes in tank and another passage for oil from tank before it is delivered to burner. In this manner the oil before reaching the burner is heated much higher than the temperature of that contained in tank.
53. Q. In the event of the heater pipes or connections becoming defective, how could the oil be heated in tank?
A. By closing the firing valve, closing the valve on heater pipe, and opening valve on heater box, the steam from heater throttle can be passed directly through the oil feed pipe to the fuel supply.
54. Q. In the event of an objectionable quantity of water in oil, how can it be removed?
A. In some instances the tanks are provided with drain pipes for this purpose, but in the absence of same, the feed hose or pipe between engine and tank can be disconnected and used as a drain to fuel oil tank.
55. Q. What effect has leaks between fuel tank and firing valve?
A. A waste of oil only.
56. Q. What effect has leaks between firing valve and burner?
A. In addition to a loss of oil while fire is burning low, and but little steam atomizer being used, it interferes very materially with the engine's steaming by admitting air when using considerable steam atomizer. This causes a very irregular oil feed.
57. Q. What action of the fire would indicate leaks in pipes between firing valve and burner?
A. The fire-box will give off sounds similar to slight explosions, and the smoke at stack will indicate irregular fuel feeding.
58. Q. What would you consider the proper adjustment of burner?
A. That which will provide for the delivery of the oil from burner to flash wall without striking arch, side walls, or floor brick while doing so.
59. Q. In case it becomes necessary to fire up an oil burning engine with wood, what parts should be given particular attention?
A. The brick work. To see that same is not damaged or displaced while placing the wood in fire-box, also to protect by placing brick over that portion of burner extending into fire-box ahead of mud ring, or by so arranging the wood in fire-box as to prevent any great amount of heat from reaching the burner and melting nozzle of same.
60. Q. In case of sudden drop in steam pressure, what might be the cause?
A. Loose brick perhaps fallen in front of burner and obstructed the flow of oil. The petticoat pipe may be loose and out of line or the dampers may have fallen shut.
61. Q. In case brick have fallen in front of burner, how can they be removed?
A. By a hook provided for that purpose. They can usually be forced out through the vent openings, but if this cannot be done, they should be thrown against the blast wall in order to get them as far as possible out of the course of the fuel feed.
62. Q. In case a petticoat pipe becomes deranged, what can be done?
A. In case it cannot be put back in proper position, it should be removed altogether. (Trips have been successfully completed in this manner.)
63. Q. Will a corroded burner mouth prevent the proper delivery of fuel to fire?
A. Yes.
64. Q. What causes the mouth of burner to corrode?
A. The asphaltum and sand contained in the oil.
65. Q. How can this be removed on the road?
A. By having a hook or rod provided with a point that can be inserted into mouth of burner.
66. Q. Why should a fuel oil tank not be filled to its holding capacity?
A. Because when heater is applied the oil would expand and overflow.
67. Q. In case of derailment or other accident that might cause the fireman to desert his position in cab, what should he do?
A. Pull key out of safety valve rod, thereby allowing oil feed from tank to be shut off.
MECHANICAL EXAMINATION
THIRD SERIES
1. Q. What are the duties of an engineman before attaching a locomotive to the train?
A. He should make a complete inspection of the locomotive, observing all important nuts and bolts, look for any signs of hot bearings on previous trip, see that the engine is equipped with necessary tools and supplies, test both of the injectors and the air brake equipment to be sure they are in good working order, see that headlight and signal lamps are in place and ready for service, observe water conditions in boiler, inspect the interior of the fire-box and see that the locomotive is properly lubricated.
2. Q. What tools should there be on the locomotive?
A. Such as are necessary to properly operate the locomotive, care for the machinery, disconnect and block up in case of breakdown and the necessary firing tools.
3. Q. What examination should be made after any repair work has been done on valve, brasses, etc.?
A. See that brasses are properly fitted, keys fastened and nuts made tight. If any repairs have been made on valves or valve gear, would see that the reverse lever could be moved freely and that all movable parts had been properly replaced; would also give especial attention with reference to lubrication of these parts.
4. Q. What attention should be given to boiler attachments, such as gauge cocks, water glasses, etc.?
A. Would see that the gauge cocks can be opened to try the water and closed, so steam and water would not come out into cab. Observe the water glass and note if water is moving up and down in the glass, see that the steam valve at the top and water valve at bottom of glass could be opened and closed, and allow water and steam to circulate freely through the glass.
5. Q. What do you consider necessary to report on locomotive boilers?
A. Should report all defects on boiler and its attachments while engine is in engineer's charge.
6. Q. Trace the steam from the boiler through the cylinders to the atmosphere and explain how it transmits power.
A. Steam enters the throttle valve located in the highest part of the dome in order to get the driest steam, then passes through the standpipe and dry pipe out of the boiler to the steam pipe tee or nigger-head located in the front end, then through steam pipes to the steam chest. A steam valve in each steam chest distributes the steam so that it enters the cylinders at or just before the beginning of the stroke; pushing the piston to the end of its stroke; just before the piston reaches the end of the cylinder, the steam valve opens communication to the exhaust port through a cavity in its exhaust side, then through the exhaust pipes and tips up through the draft or petticoat pipe and stack to the atmosphere. When steam pushes the piston through the cylinder, its power is transmitted by the main rod to the main crank pin which causes the wheels to revolve, thus moving the engine and its train.
7. Q. Why is it important that there be no holes through the smoke-box door or front end and none in smoke-box seams or joints?
A. So as to maintain as good a vacuum as possible in the smoke-box and prevent small amounts of air coming in through leaks which tend to heat and warp the smoke-box and its door.
8. Q. How should the locomotive be started to avoid jerks, and what train and other signals should be looked out for at the time of starting?
A. Place the reverse lever in full gear, open the throttle valve gradually so as to start the train one car at a time and easily. Look for signals ahead to show that the track is clear and switch is in correct position, then look for signals from the rear end that the train is all coming.
9. Q. Will an engine equipped with superheat units move as quickly as a saturated steam locomotive when throttle valve is first opened?
A. No.
10. Q. Why?
A. Because steam must first pass through superheat units before it enters the steam pipes leading to steam chest.
11. Q. In placing engine on the turntable, at water or stand pipes, or at other similar places, what must be done?
A. Close throttle valve sooner so that the steam confined in superheat units, pipes and steam chests, will have passed out to the atmosphere.
12. Q. After a locomotive has been started, how can it be run most economically?
A. By regulating the supply of steam to the steam chest with the throttle and the point of cut-off with the reverse lever; so that no more steam be used than necessary to maintain the proper speed, whenever possible working the engine at short cut-off so as to use steam expansively.
13. Q. What is meant by working steam expansively?
A. Hooking the reverse lever up toward the center gives the valve a shorter travel and closes the live steam port when the piston has made only a part of its stroke. This cuts off the supply of live steam coming from the steam chest. The expansion of the steam already in the cylinder pushes the piston to the end of its stroke without the use of a full cylinder of live steam.
14. Q. How rapidly should water be supplied to the boiler?
A. No faster than it is evaporated into steam, unless just before a hard pull; or when shutting off with a heavy bright fire in the fire-box to prevent waste of steam at the pops.
15. Q. What is the difference between priming and foaming of a locomotive boiler?
A. Priming is caused by carrying the water too high in the boiler so that when the throttle valve is opened some of it passes over with the steam in the form of a spray. Foaming is caused by the water becoming dirty from animal or alkaline matter, so that heat makes it foam like soap suds. Muddy water or certain vegetable matters will also make a boiler foam.
16. Q. What should you do in a case of foaming? What in a case of priming?
A. In a case of foaming, if possible, allow the boiler to cool off a little, increase the supply of feed water to prevent water getting too low, and whenever possible blow some of the dirty water out of the boiler, replacing it with clean water. In case of priming, shut off the supply of feed water until the water level drops to the proper height in the boiler.
17. Q. What danger is there when the water foams badly? When it primes badly?
A. There is danger of knocking out cylinder heads, cutting the valves, stalling on some grade or getting on some train's time because the engine cannot be worked to its proper power. When shutting off steam, the water is liable to drop below the crown sheet and thus risk burning the fire-box. When water primes badly, it is liable to break cylinder packing rings, knock out cylinder heads, break bolts in the steam chest and cut the valves. In such a case additional oil should be fed to the steam chest until the valves are properly lubricated.
18. Q. Suppose that with the water glass in good working order, immediately after closing the throttle the water disappeared from the water glass, what should be done?
A. Would open the throttle and endeavor to raise water until both injectors would put enough water into the boiler to make it entirely safe to close the throttle. If unable to raise the water level to the lower gauge cock would smother the fire or put it out entirely, if necessary, keeping both injectors working.
19. Q. What work about a locomotive should be done by the engineman?
A. Inspection of the engine both before and after the trip. The engineer should do any necessary work on the engine after starting out on the trip to avoid breakdowns and insure getting over the road promptly. This means tightening up any important bolts that work loose on the trip and keeping parts from working out of position, adjusting wedges and rod keys.
20. Q. How should the work of setting up the wedges be done?
A. Place the engine on the upper quarter on the side with the loose wedge. Do not set the brake if brake shoe will push the driving box against the defective wedge, but block engine truck wheels so the engine cannot move, push the boxes against the shoe or dead wedge with a little steam, set the wedge up until it is a snug fit, then pull it down about one-sixteenth of an inch and fasten. Provision should be made for expansion of the box when it gets warm.
21. Q. How should rod brasses be keyed?
A. If properly fitted they should be keyed brass to brass; if not so fitted, they should be keyed on the large part of the pin so they will be free enough to run without heating and snug enough to run without pounding. Do not key them so tight at either end as to prevent the lateral motion of the brass on the pins.
22. Q. How should an engine be placed for the purpose of keying the rod brasses?
A. For the main rod, place the engine on the quarter or the top forward eighth, whichever place gives the largest diameter of the pin to key the brass against. After keying up, test by moving the wheel to another position and see if brasses are free on the pin. For the side or parallel rods, always place the engine on the center for the side that is to be keyed.
23. Q. How should the side rods on a mogul or consolidation locomotive be keyed?
A. Place the engine on the center on that side, key up the brass on the main pin first, work each way toward the ends of the rods, being careful to keep them the proper length so they do not bind when passing either center. Be sure that wedges are properly set up before keying the side rods.
24. Q. What is the necessity for keeping the brasses keyed up properly?
A. If too tight, they will surely run hot; if too loose, they will pound and injure the brasses as well as endanger the safety of the straps and rod bolts. Very loose brasses can pound enough to get hot.
25. Q. What is meant by an engine out of tram? Out of quarter?
A. When corresponding wheels on opposite sides of the engine on different axes are not spaced equally apart; where the axle of any wheel is not at a right angle to the center line from front to rear of engine, so they do not run square on the rails, or where the space between the axle centers on opposite sides is not equal. This is sometimes indicated by unequal flange wear and should be reported at once. Wheels are out of quarter when the crank pin in one wheel is not exactly 90 degrees or one quarter of a turn from the pin in the wheels on the other end of the same axle. This is usually caused by slipping the engine with sand on one rail only and the condition of engine should be reported at once.
26. Q. Describe a piston valve.
A. A piston valve is a cylindrical spool-shaped valve constructed with packing rings much the same as the steam piston that moves through the cylinder, except that a piston valve is double or composed of two pistons connected by center rod or spool working in a bushing of equal diameter. Steam and exhaust ports are cut through this bushing; steam ports to the cylinder and exhaust port to the exhaust pipe. There is also a steam port for live steam from the boiler. As the pressure on this valve is equal in both directions it is practically balanced.
27. Q. What is a balanced slide valve? How is it balanced, and why? For what purpose is the hole drilled through the top of the valve?
A. One in which the steam pressure on the top and bottom of the valve is nearly equalized. This is done by protecting a portion of the top of the valve from the steam pressure. It is usually balanced by strips held against the pressure or balance plate by one or more springs. This is done to prevent live steam from getting on top of valve and thus relieve the valve from the top pressure which would cause excessive friction between the bottom of the valve and its seat. The hole through the top is to allow any steam which might leak by the strips to pass into the exhaust, so pressure could not accumulate on the top of the valve, also to equalize the exhaust pressure between the top of the valve and exhaust cavity as well as to assist in lubricating the balance plate.
28. Q. What is meant by inside and outside admission valves?
A. With an inside admission valve (usually a piston valve), the live steam comes between the piston valve heads, the outside end of the heads being connected with and exposed to exhaust pressure, it admits steam past the inside edges of the valves. An outside admission valve has the space between the ends connected to the exhaust and a space at the ends connected with the live steam. It admits steam past its outside edges. A piston valve can be either inside or outside admission, while a slide valve is always outside admission.
29. Q. What is the relative motion of the main piston and the steam valves for inside admission, and, on the other hand, for outside admission?
A. If the piston is in the front end of the cylinder, an inside admission valve must move forward in order to connect the inside of the valve with the front live steam port to admit steam against the piston. The outside end of the valve opens the exhaust port for the back end of the cylinder. In the same position of the piston an outside admission valve must move backwards to open the steam port or in the same direction as the steam piston when commencing its stroke.
30. Q. What is an Allen ported valve, and what is its object?
A. An Allen ported valve is an outside admission slide valve having an extra port from one end of the valve to the other, above the exhaust cavity and through the body of the valve. This extra port is calculated to admit steam through the valve at the same time that steam passes by the end of the valve into the same steam port, thus doubling the area of opening for live steam when the port is first opened.
31. Q. What is the difference in the valve motion for outside admission valves and for inside admission valves?
A. An outside admission valve must be moved in the opposite direction to an inside admission valve in relation to the movement of the steam piston when beginning its stroke; therefore either the position of the eccentric or the position of the rocker arms in relation to the rocker shaft must be opposite for a change in these valves.
32. Q. What is a direct motion valve gear? What is an indirect motion valve gear?
A. A direct motion valve gear is one in which the valve moves in the same direction as the eccentric rod, that is doing the work, in many cases no rocker arm is used. In case a rocker arm is used, both arms point in the same direction like the letter U. An indirect motion valve gear is one in which the valve moves in an opposite direction to the eccentric rod doing the work. A rocker is used in which the arms point in opposite directions from the shaft connecting them. Owing to the design and construction of the Walschaert valve gear, it is a direct motion gear when the engine is running in one direction with the link block in the bottom of the link, an indirect motion when the engine is running in an opposite direction with the link block in the top of the link; usually direct motion when running forward.
33. Q. How can you detect the difference between a blow in valve or piston packing?
A. A blow from the valve is more constant and has a somewhat different sound, while a blow from cylinder or piston packing will blow stronger at the beginning of the stroke and gradually decrease as the stroke is completed.
34. Q. How would you place engine to locate broken admission steam ring in piston valve?
A. Would place engine on quarter, reverse lever in center so as to cover ports, then open throttle; and the steam will blow out of cylinder cock at the end of cylinder where broken valve ring is located.
35. Q. How would you locate broken exhaust ring in piston valve?
A. Watch the cross-head when engine is working steam. As there will be three normal and one light exhausts, you can determine on which side of the engine the light exhaust takes place.
36. Q. What is meant by lead? What by line and line?
A. Lead is the amount of port opening for live steam to cylinder ahead or back of piston when the piston is on the dead center. If the steam edge of the valve is in line with the edge of the steam port when the piston is on the center, it is said to be line and line.
37. Q. What is meant by steam lap?
A. The distance that the valve overlaps the live steam edges of the steam ports when it is in the center of its travel over the seat. This distance is measured at one end only, although the valve laps equally at both ends.
38. Q. What is meant by exhaust lap? What by exhaust clearance?
A. Exhaust lap is the distance that the exhaust edge of the valve overlaps the exhaust edge of the steam port when the valve is in central position. Exhaust clearance is the opening between the exhaust edge of the valve and the exhaust edge of the steam port with valve in central position. If the valve has neither exhaust lap or clearance it is said to be line and line.
39. Q. What is meant by release? What by compression?
A. Release is the point in the travel of the piston when the port is opened. Compression is the distance the piston travels after exhaust port closes before the live steam port opens. During this travel of the piston the exhaust port is closed so the moving piston compresses the steam left in the cylinder.
40. Q. With an indirect valve motion and outside admission valve, what would be the position of the eccentric relative to the crank pin on that side? What with a direct valve gear? What difference between outside admission valve and inside admission valve as to this position?
A. With an indirect valve motion and an outside admission valve, the go-ahead eccentric follows the crank pin with engine running ahead. Without any lap or lead it would be a quarter of a turn or 90 degrees behind the pin, but as all valves have lap and lead, the eccentric is advanced or placed toward the pin enough to move the valve the amount of the lap and lead. With a direct valve gear and an outside admission valve, the eccentric will be a quarter of a turn or 90 degrees ahead of the crank pin and advanced enough to move the valve the amount of the lap and lead. With an inside admission valve and an indirect valve motion, the eccentric will come the same as for an outside admission valve and direct motion, or more than a quarter of a turn ahead of the pin. With an inside admission valve and direct motion, as piston valves are usually put up, the eccentric will follow the pin less than a quarter of a turn.
41. Q. What effect would be produced upon the lap and lead by changing the length of the eccentric rod?
A. Lap depends on the construction of the valve. A change of the eccentric rod would not effect it, but would widen the port opening at one end of the travel and reduce it at the other. It should be equal at both ends. Lead is controlled by the position of the eccentric on the axle and it must be equal at both ends. Changing the length of the eccentric rod from the proper one does not really affect the lead, because no proper measurement can be made until lead is equal at both ends. Therefore improper length of eccentric rods varies the port opening at the beginning of the stroke of the piston at both ends.
42. Q. Why are eccentric rods made adjustable?
A. In order to change their length to make adjustment of the valve gear not as easily made in other ways.
43. Q. Why is it necessary to keep the cylinders free from water?
A. In order to avoid damaging valves and cylinders, to insure perfect lubrication and obtain the most efficient service from the locomotive.
44. Q. Where is the piston rod packing located? Where cylinder packing?
A. Piston rod packing is usually soft metallic rings located inside of a gland at the back end of cylinder and around the rod. Cylinder packing rings are usually cast iron, placed around the piston head and bearing against the walls of the cylinder.
45. Q. How are metallic packing rings on piston rods and valve stems held in place? What provisions are made for the uneven movements of the rod?
A. The packing rings fit into a vibrating cup or cone located inside the gland, being held therein by means of a spring as well as by the steam pressure. Provision is made for uneven movement of the rod by making the inside of the gland larger than the vibrating cup and using a ball-joint ring between the vibrating cup and gland.
46. Q. While running under steam and there is a failure of part of the locomotive which does not seem to prevent running at full speed, how would you proceed?
A. Keep the locomotive running if in your judgment it is safe. Try to ascertain what the injury is and be prepared at the next stop to do such work as the case demands, being careful to make the stop at such a place that the work can be done without interfering with the movements of main line trains.
47. Q. If one side of a locomotive is disabled, what would you do in a general way to make it possible to use steam on the other side?
A. Disconnect enough parts to allow for the turning of the wheels and for reversing of the opposite side without moving the valve on the disabled side.
48. Q. In case a locomotive in your care became disabled on the road, what would you do?
A. First see that the train is protected. Next examine the locomotive and see what is necessary to do to move it and if possible the train. If unable to make repairs at once to bring the engine and train forward, would advise exact condition of engine and ask for help. In the meantime endeavor to move the train so as to give other trains the use of the main line.
49. Q. Suppose a wash-out plug blew out or a blow-off cock broke off or would not close, what should be done?
A. Kill the fire, get the train on a side track, if possible, and if unable to make repairs get the engine in condition to be towed in. In all cases with a disabled engine allow the train to drift to a siding, when possible, and stop between the switches so as to allow other trains to pass through siding.
50. Q. Can a locomotive boiler without steam pressure be filled by being towed by another engine? If towed, how filled?
A. Yes. Close all openings where air could enter the boiler. All relief valves, cylinder cocks, gauge cocks, the whistle valve and air pump steam valve should be closed. Place the reverse lever in full gear in the direction the engine is to be towed with water supply valve and injector throttle open. Use engine oil through auxiliary oil cups to oil valves and pistons. The movement of the pistons in the cylinders will pump the air out of the boiler and atmospheric pressure on water in the tank will force water into boiler when the engine is towed.
51. Q. What should be done if grates should be burned out or broken while on the road?
A. Pull the fire off the broken or burned grates, cover that section with any pieces of iron at hand (fish-plates or angle-bars are very good), then level up the fire, clean ash-pan and proceed with full train.
52. Q. What precaution should be taken to prevent locomotive throwing fire?
A. The netting and smoke-arch should be kept in good condition; cinder slide and hand hole plates securely fastened, ash-pan clean and slide dampers for dumping ashes closed. Care should be exercised in working the engine, especially in the vicinity of stations or places where fire is liable to catch. Avoid working the engine hard so as to prevent throwing cinders.
53. Q. What shall be done with a badly leaking or bursted flue?
A. Plug it if possible with an iron or wooden plug. If in the fire-box end, a piece of scantling or post can be sharpened and driven into the flue from the fire-box door; it will then burn off up to where the water from the bursted flue keeps it wet. If a bottom flue, would cover it with ashes or green coal so that the leakage would not put out the balance of the fire. If able to maintain steam pressure, would then proceed with a full train.
54. Q. What should be done in case the throttle valve stem became disconnected while the valve is closed? If it became disconnected leaving valve open?
A. Would notify the train crew and Dispatcher and arrange to be towed in. With lubricator working, unless in very cold weather so there is danger of the water freezing in the cylinders or steam chest passages, would not disconnect. By taking out lubricator chokes and steam chest valves from the oil pipe, a larger supply of steam could be got into the cylinders. If in to clear of other trains and practicable, would take up the dome cap and connect the throttle again. If disconnected and valve stuck open, would notify the train crew and Dispatcher, reduce steam pressure until the engine could be handled with reverse lever and brake, and proceed with such a train as the engine can handle.
55. Q. In case a valve yoke or stem became broken inside of steam chest, how can the breakage be located?
A. In this case the disabled valve is always pushed to the front end of the steam chest so that with a slide valve or outside admission piston valve the back port is open to live steam. When given steam, the engine will stop on the eighth, and when reversed will move over to the other eighth, being stopped there by the live steam in the back end of the cylinder having the disabled valve. Steam will blow from the back cylinder cock on the disabled side and cannot be changed by reversing the engine. If the valve is pushed far enough ahead to open the exhaust port, steam will blow through the exhaust so the engine cannot be moved. With an inside admission valve the forward steam port will be opened and steam will come out of the forward cylinder cock on the disabled side.
56. Q. After locating a breakage of this kind, how would you proceed to put the engine in safe running order?
A. Would move the valve to central position so as to cover both steam ports, if possible. This may be done by taking out the relief valve if on front side of the steam chest and pushing valve back, or taking up the cover for a slide valve; or taking off front head for a piston valve. Disconnect the valve rod from rocker arm and block valve stem so it cannot blow out of the gland or let valve work back. Loosen cylinder head in order to provide for lubricating cylinder so as to leave the main rod up on the disabled side and proceed on one side. If unable to cover the open steam port it would be necessary to disconnect the main rod on the disabled side, blocking the piston at the proper end of the guides so live steam coming into the cylinder would not move it.
57. Q. If a slide valve is broken, what can be done to run the engine on one side?
A. Remove the steam chest cover, place a thin board between the valve and the steam passages in the seat, replace steam chest cover, disconnect valve rod, and if able to lubricate the cylinders leave up the main rod and proceed on one side.
58. Q. If one of the bolts connecting the two parts of a built-up link on Stephenson gear breaks or is lost, how would you proceed?
A. If temporary bolt cannot be supplied, take down the forward part of the link, disconnect and remove link block, fasten valve to cover ports, and proceed. If moving link will clear rocker arm or other parts of the machinery after link block is taken out, it will not be necessary to disconnect eccentrics.
59. Q. What should be done in case of link saddle pin breaking?
A. Remove the broken parts and block the disabled link in such a position that the entire train could be started, using a very short block above the link block in the link slot and a longer one below it.
60. Q. With one link blocked up, what should be guarded against?
A. Reversing the engine or moving the tumbling shaft arm down so the link on the disabled side can strike it.
61. Q. How can it be known if an eccentric has slipped on the axle?
A. By the uneven exhaust of the engine and a thorough inspection to determine the cause.
62. Q. Having determined which eccentric has slipped, how should it be reset?
A. Place the engine on the center on disabled side and if a back-up eccentric has slipped, would place the reverse lever in full forward gear and mark the valve stem flush with the gland; then place the reverse lever in full back gear and move the slipped eccentric until the mark on the stem returns to its original position, taking notice that the throw of the eccentric is on the other side of the axle from the go-ahead eccentric used as a marker, and tighten up set-screws. To set a go-ahead eccentric, use the back-up one on that side for the marker. If the eccentric had been keyed on, would move the cam until the key-way in the axle came in line with the slot in the cam. Knowing the position of the eccentric in relation to the crank pin, an inspection would show where it belongs. The eccentrics are usually opposite the third spoke in the driving wheel from the pin, sometimes ahead of the pin, in other cases back of the pin, depending on whether it is an inside or outside admission valve, a go-ahead or back-up eccentric.
63. Q. What should be done in case of a broken eccentric strap or rod?
A. For a go-ahead strap or rod take down all broken parts, disconnect valve rod, cover ports, and come in on one side. It is safer to take down also the back-up strap and rod on that side. If the back-up strap and rod is broken, it is possible to secure the bottom end of the link so it will not turn over, work the engine full stroke ahead, proceeding with full train until the main line is clear.
64. Q. How should the engine be disconnected if the lower rocker arm became broken? If link block pin?
A. Would remove broken parts; if moving link would strike anything connected with the rocker box or broken arm it would be necessary to take down both eccentric straps and rods. Block valve central over ports and come ahead on one side. If a link block pin was broken, it might be possible to put a bolt in there to do the work, otherwise block the valve on the center of its seat and if the link will not clear the lower end of the rocker arm take down the eccentric straps and rod. In any case where necessary to take off the eccentric rod always take off the strap also.
65. Q. For what breakdown is it necessary to take down the main rod? The side rod?
A. A broken main crank pin, broken main rod or strap, broken piston rod when near the middle of the rod, broken cross-head or guide, broken valve or seat when steam cannot be kept out of the cylinder. Side rods must come down for broken side rod, broken main pin, or broken side rod pin affecting that rod.
66. Q. If it is not necessary to take down the main rod of disabled side of the engine, how would you arrange to lubricate the cylinders?
A. If cylinder and piston are in good shape and it is possible to block the valve to admit a small quantity of steam into the back end of the cylinder, oil from the lubricator will go through this opening and oil the piston rod and cylinder packing. If not possible to block the valve properly, cover the ports and oil the cylinder through the indicator plug openings or relief plug holes. If not possible to do this, slack off the bolts on the front cylinder head, wedge the head open so oil can be introduced. In some cases it may be necessary to take the head off; that however, allows dust and grit to enter the cylinder.
67. Q. What is the by-pass valve, and what is its duty?
A. By-pass valves are connected to the steam port leading to the cylinder. Its duty is to open when the engine is drifting with steam shut off, and close when working steam, to allow air to pass back and forth from opposite sides of the moving piston.
68. Q. What is a vacuum relief valve? What a cylinder relief valve?
A. A vacuum relief valve is usually located on the steam chest or the live steam passage to the chest and opens when steam is shut off and engine drifting, allowing atmospheric pressure to pass into the steam chest, closing when working steam. A cylinder relief valve is a pop valve screwed into the cylinder head and set at high enough pressure so it does not open in ordinary service, but will open to allow water to pass out when the exhaust port is closed by valves; or on compound engines when the pressure in the low-pressure cylinder gets too high.
69. Q. What would be considered a bad engine or tender truck wheel?
A. One loose on axle; having bad flat spots; very sharp flanges; bad sand spots; cracks shelled out; or other defect that would make the wheel unsafe.
70. Q. What should be done if a tender truck wheel or axle should break?
A. Would place a piece of timber or rail across the tender, jack up the corner of the truck that is disabled chain it to the timber and fasten the timber at the other end to hold it so it would carry the disabled truck. If it is possible to slide the wheel or truck, place a tie across the rail and keep the wheel from turning, then slide it to a siding.
71. Q. What should be done if an engine truck wheel or axle should break?
A. Would block between the engine frame and truck frame over the good wheel on disabled side, swing the disabled corner of the truck to the engine frame with a chain. Look out when crossing frogs that disabled truck does not leave the track. With a broken flange, would block the wheel to prevent its turning and skid it to a siding.
72. Q. What should be done for a broken tender truck spring?
A. Jack the tender up to where it belongs and put a block in place of the broken spring.
73. Q. What should be done with a broken engine truck spring or equalizer?
A. For a broken spring, raise the front end of the engine and place blocks across the equalizers under the truck spring near the spring band. For a broken equalizer, block on top of engine truck boxes and under truck frame.
74. Q. What should be done if a driving spring hanger or equalizer should break?
A. Would block between the driving box affected and under the frame over it, using hardwood block or piece of iron. Would also block the equalizer up to its proper position between the disabled end and the frame, or over the other end, as the type of spring rigging requires, to hold the equalizer level. For a broken equalizer, would block on top of all boxes affected, would raise the engine by running the proper driving wheels upon an incline or wedge to lift the engine while other boxes were blocked; a re-railing frog comes handy for this work.
75. Q. How can an engine be moved if the reverse lever or reach rod were caught at short cut-off by a broken spring or hanger?
A. By removing the pin at the forward end of reach rod, to free the tumbling shaft and allow it to be moved either forward or back to move the engine. A block should be placed over the link block to avoid damaging it when uncoupled, as well as to hold link in proper position to move the engine. This would allow the engine to be moved and clear the main line.
76. Q. How can the blowing of steam past cylinder packing, a valve or valve strip be distinguished or located?
A. Test for a leaky slide valve, place the engine on the quarter on the suspected side with the reverse lever in center notch; the valve should be in the middle of its travel and cover both ports. If steam blows through the open cylinder cocks on that side, the valve or seat are defective. A leaky balanced valve strip will allow steam to blow through the hole on top of the valve into the exhaust port in the seat and very little steam will come out of the cylinder cock; in some cases with the valve barely opening a steam port to the exhaust, air will draw in at the cylinder cock. If there is a drip cock in the exhaust pipe under the saddle, the steam will blow out there. After testing for leaky valve, place the engine on about the forward bottom or top back eighth, block the wheels or set the brakes solid, put reverse lever in corner, open cylinder cocks and give the engine steam. If steam comes out of both cylinder cocks, and testing valve shows it is tight, then the packing is blowing. Cylinder packing should be tested with steam first on one side of the piston and then on the other.
77. Q. If engine should blow badly and be unable to start the train when on the right dead center, on which side would be the blow generally?
A. On the left side. If the side standing on the quarter cannot start the train, the trouble is usually there.
78. Q. If throttle were closed and steam came out of cylinder cocks, what might be the cause?
A. To test for this, first shut off steam connection to the lubricator; steam leaking into the cylinders can come from a leaky throttle or leaky dry pipe.
79. Q. Is it possible to distinguish between a leaky throttle and a leaky dry pipe?
A. Yes; a leaky throttle usually leaks steam at all times. A leaky dry pipe will leak both steam and water. It will show a stream of water at the cylinder cocks when the water level in the boiler is raised above the leak in the dry pipe.
80. Q. What effect have leaky steam pipes in the smoke-arch, and how should they be tested?
A. Leaky steam pipes waste steam and very seriously affect the draft in the front end. A bad leak in the back part of the joint at the bottom will blow into the tubes and make the engine smoke at the door with throttle wide open while standing still. To test them, open the front door and cover the joint with fine cinders. When the engine is given steam, the cinders will blow away from the leak; to properly test them in the shop, water under heavy pressure should be used.
81. Q. How should the test for a leaky exhaust pipe joint, or a leaky nozzle joint be made?
A. About the only test that can be made on the road is to open the front end and reverse the engine with throttle partly opened, watching the suspected joint at the same time. For the bottom one with cinders around the joint, for the top one it can sometimes be detected by holding a torch near the joint.
82. Q. What should be done if a steam chest cracks?
A. Would loosen up the steam chest cover to free the sides, and wedge between the studs and walls of chest, crowding the broken parts together. A brake shoe key does this nicely. Would then tighten down on steam chest cover and proceed.
83. Q. What should be done if a steam chest breaks?
A. Would take off steam chest cover, place strips of boards over the steam inlets and block on top of them so that the steam chest cover would hold them in place and prevent live steam coming out of inlet. Would then make the necessary disconnection and proceed on one side.
84. Q. If a link lifter or arm were broken, what should be done?
A. Take off the disabled parts, block between the top of the link and link block, having the disabled link blocked down very nearly in full strokes. For safety, both the top and bottom of the disabled link should have blocks in its slot; the good link would be held in place by the reverse lever and should under no consideration be dropped down any farther than the disabled link was.
85. Q. If the reverse lever or reach rod should break, what should be done?
A. If either breaks, place an iron bar or suitable piece of material across the top of both frames, securely fastening it in position, then fasten the arm of the tumbling shaft to the bar. This will require the engine to be worked at about half cut-off; handle such part of the train as the road conditions would permit.
86. Q. What should be done if the piston, piston rod, cross-head, main rod or crank pin are broken or bent?
A. If a piston should break, would remove broken parts, disconnect valve stem, clamp valve in central position, and if moving piston would not damage cylinder, leave main rod up and proceed. If a piston rod, cross-head, main rod or crank pin are broken or bent, would take down the main rod, block the valve and cross-head; if piston rod is broken off at the cross-head, leave main rod up.
87. Q. What should be done when there is a loose or lost cylinder key?
A. If the cylinder key is loose, it should be tightened up; if lost, something should be substituted. In case nothing solid can be found to take the place of the key, the engine should be run in light to avoid further damage.
88. Q. What should be done if a safety valve spring or stud breaks?
A. The steam pressure should be reduced. With broken spring, screw the parts down solid or clamp the stem down. This can be done by laying a piece of scantling across the top of the valve, fastening each end to the hand rail on opposite sides of the engine in case of broken stud. Would then raise steam pressure and proceed. Care should be taken to see that the other safety valves relieve the steam pressure properly.
89. Q. How can an engine be brought in with a broken front end or stack?
A. By boarding up the front end to make it as near air tight as possible and using a barrel or a petticoat pipe in place of the stack, wiring it fast to the smoke-arch. Where a portion of the stack is inside the smoke-box the engine might steam without the barrel or petticoat pipe.
90. Q. What should be done if the frame is broken between the main driver and cylinder?
A. Either give up the train and come in light, or disconnect the engine on that side and come in with reduced tonnage, depending on how badly the engine pounds when working steam.
91. Q. If the frame is broken back of the main driver?
A. Do not disconnect and do not try to pull a heavy train; it is safer to come in with light tonnage.
92. Q. In case of broken side rods, what should be done?
A. Take down the broken rod and corresponding rod on the other side of the engine.
93. Q. What can be done if the intermediate side rods were broken on a consolidation engine having the eccentric on the axle ahead of the main wheel?
A. In this case the engine must be towed in. It is possible when the main pin is broken, so that all rods on one side are taken off, to leave the rods up on the other side and move the engine with her own steam, but very few roads will allow this, because engineers will be inclined to leave the main rod up on the disabled side to prevent engine catching on the center. If main rod is left up on the disabled side, the wheels will surely slip and wreck the rods on the other side.
94. Q. Should one of the forward tire, main tire, intermediate tire, back tire, or a trailer tire break, what must be done to bring the engine up?
A. Would run the wheel of the broken tire on a block in order to raise the wheel clear of the rail and the box up in the driving box jaws. Remove the oil cellar and place a block between the driving journal and pedestal brace to carry the disabled wheel center clear of the rail. Would also block up on top of the box of the wheel ahead or back as the case might be, in order to take the weight from the disabled wheel. It might not be necessary to take off any of the rods, but would run the engine light to the shop, giving special attention to lubrication of the disabled wheel and using extra precaution in entering side tracks and passing over frogs and switches. With the tire of a back driver or trailer wheel broken, it is usually necessary to swing the rear end of the engine from the tender to keep the rear end on the track. With an inside radial journal, box on the trailer axle; for a broken trailer tire, both trailer wheels must be blocked and swung clear of the rail.
95. Q. What is a good method of raising a wheel when jacks are not available?
A. By raising the wheel on a hardwood block or iron wedge; a re-railing frog comes very handy for this purpose.
96. Q. How can it be known when the wedges are set up too tight and the driving box sticks, and in what manner can they be pulled down?
A. If wedges are set up too tight, it causes the boxes to stick and the engine to ride rough. Inspection of the engine when moving will locate the disabled box; usually this gets hot at once and the wedges should be immediately pulled down. Loosen the jam nuts on the wedge bolts and back them down; if the wedge is stuck very tight it may be necessary to run one or more of the wheels over a block; or to loosen the pedestal, brace bolt and allow the jaws to spread to release the box.
97. Q. What are some of the various causes for pounds?
A. Wedges not properly adjusted, loose or worn driving box brasses, rod brasses not keyed or in need of reducing, loose side rod bushings or side rod connections, worn cross-heads, wrist pins, broken frame, loose cylinder key, loose piston on rod, or rod loose in cross-head, loose follower bolts or obstruction in the cylinder.
98. Q. How may a pound in driving boxes, wedges or rod brasses be located, and after locating what should be done?
A. Place the engine at half stroke on side to be tested. Do not set brake when testing for loose wedges or defective boxes; set brake when testing for other pounds. Reverse engine from forward to back gear under steam, noting the movement of the axle in the boxes, the driving boxes between the wedges, rod brasses on the pins and movement of cross-head between the guides. If possible would adjust wedges or rod brasses at once and report repairs needed at the terminal.
99. Q. How locate loose follower bolts?
A. Shut off steam and allow engine to drift; there will be a pound in the cylinder when the loose follower bolt strikes a forward cylinder-head as the engine passes the forward center on that side; give engine steam while still moving and if the pound stops it is likely to be a loose or broken follower bolt. When working steam, the compression or pre-admission takes up the lost motion in the rod and connections, so the loose bolt does not strike the head; when shut off the piston travels the extra amount of this lost motion and the bolt strikes the head.
100. Q. When should cross-heads or guides be reported to be lined?
A. When there is excessive lost motion between the cross-head and the top and bottom guides, or between the cross-head and the guide at the sides, or when the piston rod is not central between the guides.
101. Q. When should driving box wedges be reported to be lined?
A. When they have been set up as far as possible and the boxes are still loose between the wedge and shoe. At this time would also report any excessive flange wear on any one particular tire.
102. Q. When should rod brasses be reported to be reduced? When to be lined?
A. Rod brasses should be reported reduced when they are larger than the pins and are pounding and cannot be keyed up properly. They should be reported to be lined when the key has been drawn or driven to its full length and the brasses do not close together or are too loose in the strap lengthwise of the rod.
103. Q. When should lost motion between engine and tender be taken up?
A. When the lost motion becomes so great as to endanger the breaking of connections.
104. Q. How do you proceed to pack a driving box equipped with a grease cellar?
A. Remove the filling plate on the inside of the cellar. Pull down the indicators and follower plates, insert the grease between the follower plate and perforated plate; when full, replace the filling plate on the inside of the cellar and allow the spring and follower plate to force the grease through the perforated plate to the journal.
105. Q. Please explain the principle on which an injector works.
A. With a lifting injector the steam valve is opened a small amount to furnish steam for the priming or starting jet. This forces the air in the body of the injector and top end of suction pipe out through the overflow valve, producing a partial vacuum in the body of the injector. Atmospheric pressure in the tank then forces the water into the injector body. When it begins to come out through the overflow, a further movement of the steam valve opens the forcing valve wide, so a full supply of steam strikes the water at a high velocity and at the same time condensing. This action of the steam gives the water sufficient velocity to overcome the boiler pressure and pass into the boiler.
106. Q. Explain the passage of steam from the boiler to the steam heat pipe.
A. Steam is admitted to the steam heat pipe, in which there is placed a reducing valve through which it passes at reduced pressure, into the steam heat pipe under the entire length of the train. The reducing valve is located in the cab close to the steam heat throttle.
107. Q. If the steam heat gauge shows proper pressure, but the steam heat pipe pressure appears to be low, what should be done?
A. If the steam heat gauge is showing the correct pressure, there is an obstruction in the pipe somewhere, most likely in the steam heat hose, and this should be looked for and remedied; if the gauge is correct, then it is the reducing valve that is at fault and this should be readjusted, as well as the gauge.
108. Q. What is the cause of failure with the second injector, and what should be done to obviate this failure?
A. Lack of attention and failure to use every day will allow joints to work loose and boiler check to fill up with mud and scale. It should be tested every day and worked regularly so as to keep it in good working order.
109. Q. If an injector stops working while on the road, what should you do?
A. Would first ascertain if sufficient water was in the tender and tender valve open, and that water was cool enough in the tender so the injector would handle it. Would next see that no obstruction was in the feed pipe or strainer and that the feed pipe was free from leaks, and that the injector was getting a sufficient supply of steam. If the injector would not prime, would see whether overflow or heater valve could open wide, or if overflow pipe was obstructed. If suction pipe was very hot would blow water back into tank and let suction fill with cold water. If possible, examine for obstruction in the steam priming tube and water tubes. If it would prime and fail to deliver water to the boiler, would see that the delivery tube was not obstructed and then look for trouble at the boiler check. An obstruction in the tubes would stop the injector working at once, while wear of the tubes or filling up with scale would affect the injector gradually.
110. Q. What are the advantages of the combination boiler check and stop valve?
A. A combination boiler check is fitted with a valve similar to a globe valve and can be closed at will. Its advantage is that the boiler pressure can be shut off from the check and the valve repaired without cooling the boiler. This hand-operated valve can be closed to prevent the boiler water passing back in case the check valve sticks up and allows the boiler water to pass back to the injector when not working.
111. Q. How can a disconnected tank valve be opened without stopping?
A. Close the overflow or heater valve and turn steam back toward the tank; this will usually lift the valve from its seat or turn it around so it opens.
112. Q. What comprises the steam heat equipment on a locomotive?
A. A globe valve throttle at the boiler, a reducing valve, a steam gauge connected to the steam heat pipe and the proper piping and hose connections.
113. Q. What pressure is carried in the steam heat pipe, and how is it controlled?
A. From twenty to sixty pounds in the train pipe, depending on the length of the train, and is controlled by the regulating valve.
114. Q. What would you do in case the regulating valve failed to operate?
A. In case the regulating valve would not admit sufficient steam to the train pipe, would take it apart and block the steam valve open. If the pressure ran up too high in the steam heat train pipe, would control it with the steam throttle at the boiler head.
115. Q. How does the steam heat reducing valve control the pressure?
A. The inlet valve for live steam is opened and closed by the movement of a metallic diaphragm in the valve which is opened by spring pressure on one side and closed by steam pressure on the other side. To regulate this pressure, stiffen the spring to carry more, weaken it to carry less by turning the handle connected to this spring either up or down.
116. Q. If steam heat gauge showed the required pressure and cars were not being heated properly, how would you proceed to locate the trouble?
A. First note where the hand on the steam heat gauge stands when steam is shut off; if it does not drop back to zero see how much it lacks of this and note the rise of pressure shown by the gauge when steam is turned on. This is to test the gauge. If gauge is not correct, pay no attention to it, but send back steam enough to heat the train. Over sixty pounds will usually make the hose couplings on the cars rise up and leak at the joints.
117. Q. When engine is detached from the train, what precaution should you take to prevent freezing of the steam heat train pipe? What to prevent damage of steam heat hose?
A. Open steam throttle to allow a very little steam to pass into steam heat train pipe to prevent its freezing. If end of hose is liable to strike frogs or crossings, hang it up where it will be safe.
118. Q. What constitutes abuse of an engine?
A. Improper use of injector by filling boiler at a rapid rate when drifting or standing in a siding, unless you have a heavy bright fire to heat the injected water to the boiler temperature as fast as it comes into the boiler. Excessive use of the blower, especially with a light fire or when cleaning the fire. Improper attention to machinery, such as keeping parts not properly lubricated, rods not properly keyed, wedges not adjusted, carrying too much or too little water in the boiler, working water through the cylinders, allowing engine to slip unnecessarily, use of sand on one rail only or otherwise improperly; being careless in any way where care is required and not properly reporting the necessary work so it can be done promptly.
119. Q. How are accidents and breakdown best prevented?
A. By inspection both at and after leaving terminals, frequently while on the road, keeping all parts properly adjusted, water in the boiler at the proper level and using good judgment in the handling of the engine and train. It is much better to use care and prevent accidents than to make repairs after they occur.
120. Q. What are the duties of an engineman when leaving his engine at the terminal?
A. Place her on the proper track to be turned over to the hostler, leave throttle closed securely, reverse lever in center notch, cylinder cocks open, and lubricator feeds to steam chest and cylinders closed. The boiler should be full of water and sufficient fire to maintain steam pressure until fire is knocked out. Call fireman's attention to anything of special importance. Inspect the engine very thoroughly, ascertain whether any tools or signals have been lost on the trip and make a full report of the condition of the entire locomotive.
121. Q. What is the most important bolt or nut on the locomotive?
A. The loose one. It should be cared for immediately.
122. Q. In reporting work on an engine, is it sufficient to do it in a general way, such as saying: "Injector won't work," "lubricator won't work," "engine won't steam," "engine blows," etc.? Or would you report each special defect so it could be located after the engine was put in roundhouse or on designated track whether it had steam pressure in boiler or not?
A. No. Report all defects noticed so plainly that they can be located by the repair man without unnecessary work and whether there is steam in the boiler or not at the time repairs are to be made. If the engine blows, make a test to locate the blow and report it correctly. Also report any unusual feature in the operation of the engine during the trip.