SUGGESTIONS TO CLIMBERS
Since 1931 authorized guide service has been available in the park. In view of the difficulties one encounters on the Teton peaks and the hazards they present, prospective climbers—especially if inexperienced—are urged to make use of the guide service. If venturing out unguided, climbers should under all circumstances consult rangers or guides for full information relative to routes and equipment. Failure to heed this caution has, in the past, led to accidents and even fatalities. Climbing parties are required, under all circumstances, to report at either park headquarters or Jenny Lake Ranger Station before and after each expedition, whether guided or unguided. Climbing alone, without a companion, is absolutely prohibited.
The climbing season varies with the amount of snow in the range and the character of the weather, but ordinarily it extends from the middle of June to the end of September, being at its best during July, August, and early September. In most cases it is advisable to allow 2 days for an ascent of the Grand Teton, Mount Owen, or Mount Moran, and one day for the other major peaks. Jenny Lake Campground is the logical outfitting point for most expeditions; it is close to the peaks and the sources of supply as well. For most ascents the usual alpine equipment—ice axes, rope, and hobbed boots or climbing shoes—is essential. In the case of guided parties arrangements for renting equipment may be made with the guides.
WILDLIFE
For a great many years Jackson Hole has been famed for its big game, and to those who wish to see wild animals the expenditure of a little time in favorable localities usually will reveal them.
The visitor should not be disappointed if he does not see animals from his automobile as he drives through the park. In most cases the roads have been built so as to avoid going through localities inhabited by wildlife for fear of frightening it and driving it away.
Within the actual confines of the park, Shiras' moose is the most common big game animal, and it is frequently seen in the smaller ponds and marshy meadows. Though the moose is the largest member of the deer family, it is not as wary as the deer and is comparatively easy to see.
Mule deer are increasing in the park, as well as in the rest of Jackson Hole. Though quite shy, they are often seen along the many miles of trail which are accessible to both rider and hiker.
The elk, or wapati, have been the most important of the big game animals in Jackson Hole, at least since the occupancy of white men; and they have done much to make the valley known to the world. Their history constitutes one of the most interesting chapters in the story of the valley. Not many years ago as the winter range of the elk was more and more taken up by the cattleman and rancher, depriving the elk of the areas where they might find winter forage not too deeply covered by winter snow, it became apparent that something must be done to save these magnificent animals. Toward this end a Government ranch was established near the town of Jackson, where the elk could be fed during the winter months. The preservation of the Jackson Hole elk herd is now assured.
In the spring elk leave the low country and the Government feed grounds and move toward the high country in Yellowstone Park and south of it, on Big Game Ridge, the Thorofare Plateau, and in the mountains east of Jackson Hole. A small herd summers in the north end of the Teton Range. With snowfall in the high country, the elk again move down until by November or December they are back on the feed grounds.
A small herd of bighorns, or Rocky Mountain sheep, ranges in the Teton Mountains. Large numbers of bighorns are found, however, in the mountains east and south of Jackson Hole.
In the park there are many smaller mammals, among them the marmot, or "rockchuck", whose shrill whistling makes his presence known at all altitudes from the valley floor to the peak summits. Marmots make interesting pets, and tame ones are not uncommon. Like bears, marmots hibernate through the winter.
Conies (pikas) are common throughout the rock slides, where these little animals find numerous refuges. They are guinea-piglike creatures, usually grayish in color and 7 or 8 inches long. In the rock slides one may find the little hay piles which they make of the plants growing nearby. Though very little is known concerning the winter habits of these alpine animals, it is probable that they do not hibernate but during the winter live on their stored hay and what additional food is to be found under the snow.
Bears are found only in the mountains and canyons of the park. They do not invade the campgrounds.
BULL ELK
Photo by Crandall.
That most interesting of smaller mammals, the beaver, is common, and it is not difficult to find the houses and dams which they have built. In the campgrounds are pine squirrels, chipmunks, ground squirrels, and mice. Mink, marten, otter, weasels, coyotes, badgers, fox, and lynx also are found in the park.
The Grand Teton National Park offers much to the bird student. Though the region is old in history, it is new in possibilities of avian observation, and the seeker finds types from those which inhabit the arid sagebrush plains to those which spend their lives in the frigid atmosphere far above timber line.
In number, there are more than 100 species, a variety which will keep any ornithologist busy for as long as his stay permits. A list of 93 species was made during June and July 1933, and at least 3 more species were added in 1934. Many of these are easily studied within a few hundred yards of the Jenny Lake Ranger Station.
TREES AND PLANTS
In several respects the flora of the Tetons is unique. The high mountains have constituted a barrier to plant migration which many forms could not cross; hence the range limit of a number of plants is found here. Representatives from north, south, east, and west are found in this general region, this being the limit, in many instances, of their distribution. There are many plants typical of the central Rockies, and a few known only to this range. Five life zones are recognized within the park, all occurring in a distance of less than 15 miles. Plants migrating from other regions have grown equally well in each zone.
The flowering period begins in the park as soon as the ridges and flats are free of snow in May, and it continues until about August 15 in the Arctic-Alpine Zone. Hence, plants of at least one zone and usually of several may be seen blooming at any time in the spring or summer.
The evergreen trees form an appropriate frame for the majestic Teton peaks and are reflected in the beautiful lakes which they encircle.
Lodgepole pine is the most common tree, covering the floor of the valley and extending up the mountains to about 8,000 feet. The pines may be easily distinguished from the other evergreens by the long slender needles occurring in bundles. Lodgepole has two needles in each bundle. Trees of this species were extensively used by the Indians for lodge poles.
Whitebark pine is the tree of timber line; the occasional specimens found at a lower elevation are usually dwarfed. Needles occur five in each bundle; cones 2 to 3 inches long and almost ovate; the tree is much-branched and of medium size.
THE SNOW-CAPPED TETONS LOOK DOWN ON BEAUTIFUL WILD-FLOWER FIELDS
Copyright, Crandall.
Douglas tree has been called "Douglas spruce", "Douglas fir", and "red fir"; however, it is neither a spruce nor a fir but is worthy of separate distinction. One needle; cones 2 to 4 inches long; a three-lobed bract projects from beneath each scale of the cone, a very distinctive character; common at middle elevations.
Alpine fir grows from the base of the mountains to timber line; at high altitudes it is dwarfed and sprawling. One needle, flat; cones 2 to 3 inches long, scales paper-like; tree usually pyramidal and beautifully symmetrical.
Engelmann spruce is the largest tree in the park, and is usually found growing in moist places and near the lakes and streams. One needle, square in cross section, stiff and sharp; cones 2 to 3 inches long, scales papery.
Blue spruce is not common and is found only in the Snake River bottoms. The form found here is not typical, lacking the blue cast. One needle, square in cross section, stiff and sharp; cones 3 to 5 inches long, scales papery.
Creeping juniper is not common. It is a prostrate form, lacking definite trunk. Leaves awllike, one-half inch long or less, stiff and sharp, spreading from the twigs; fruit, berrylike.
Aspen is the most common deciduous tree of the valley, growing on the slopes up to about 8,000 feet. The leaves are on very slender stalks and the slightest breeze puts them into motion, hence the popular names "Quaking asp" and "Quaking aspen." Leaves rounded, 1 to 3 inches broad, with a slender stalk of about the same length; bark smooth and whitish.
Balsam poplar is found along some of the stream banks and is the largest deciduous tree of the park. Leaves about 3 inches long and 2 inches broad, longer than the stalk; bark smooth on the young trees, becoming rough as the trees get older. The small seed pods contain many seeds, to each of which is attached a tuft of white hair or "cotton"; hence one of the common names, "Cottonwood."
NATURALIST SERVICE
At Jenny Lake is located the park museum, which also serves as the ranger station. In it are housed exhibits pertaining to the history, geology, fauna, and flora of the Teton-Jackson Hole country. The collection devoted to mountaineering is in many respects unique. Adjacent to the museum is an open-air amphitheater where campfire talks on geology, wildlife, and other subjects related to the park are given every evening at dusk by a ranger-naturalist. A nature walk, auto caravan, or all-day hike is conducted each day by a member of the ranger-naturalist staff.
THE TETON RANGE MIRRORED IN JACKSON LAKE
Copyright, Crandall.
An information desk is maintained at the museum, and rangers are there at all hours of the day to answer inquiries. Information service is also maintained at park headquarters.
FISHING
Grand Teton Park offers splendid opportunities for fishing. Fish may be taken with the artificial fly during most of the summer, but the lake or mackinaw trout which are present in Jackson and Jenny Lakes must be lured with bait and caught with heavy tackle by means of trolling. Other species of trout in park waters are the cutthroat (also known as native, red-throat, and blackspotted) and the brook or speckled trout. The park waters are being stocked through the cooperation of the United States Bureau of Fisheries. A Wyoming fishing license, costing $1.50 for State residents and $3 for nonresidents, is required. For $1.50, however, nonresidents may secure a 5-day fishing permit.
SWIMMING
Jenny and Leigh Lakes offer opportunities for those who enjoy lake bathing. A small beach of clean white sand at the end of the Leigh Lake Road is especially frequented by bathers.
HUNTING
Jackson Hole has long been a noted hunting country, and under Wyoming laws elk, deer, sheep, moose, and bear may be hunted in the mountains east and south of Jackson Hole. Parties interested in hunting should consult the local game warden or the State Fish and Game Department at Cheyenne, Wyo., for information as to licenses and seasons.
No hunting is permitted in the Grand Teton National Park, which, of course, will always be a complete sanctuary for wildlife.
DUDE RANCHES
The trail of the summer vacationist has deviated during the last decade from the old familiar courses to embrace vast areas in Wyoming and Montana. A veritable invasion of eastern tourists, known in the parlance of men of the range as "dudes", has followed the opening up by modern transportation of this beautiful country.
Located in the mountainous regions of these two far western States, on the last frontier, are the dude ranches, in the mouths of canyons, among foothills, or in clearings in the forest. These ranches are not pretentious places, but are rustic and unique. Their popularity began in 1904, when Howard, Willis, and Alden Eaton established the now famous Eaton Brothers' "Dude Ranch" at Wolf, Wyo.
Many of these ranches are situated in territory within easy access to the Grand Teton Park. A complete list may be obtained by addressing the Dude Ranchers' Association, Billings, Mont.
ADMINISTRATION
The representative of the National Park Service in immediate charge of the park is Thomas E. Whitcraft, superintendent, with office at park headquarters; address, Moose, Wyo.
HOW TO REACH THE PARK
BY AUTOMOBILE
The Grand Teton National Park is reached by automobile from the north, south, east, and west. Each of these approaches is highly scenic in character affording splendid distant views of the Teton Range and Jackson Hole. United States Highway No. 287 connects Jackson Hole with Yellowstone Park and is the north approach to the Teton Park. One mile north of Moran the traveler reaches United States Highway No. 187 which traverses Jackson Hole and makes the park accessible. From the east United States Highway No. 287, known as the Atlantic-Yellowstone-Pacific Highway, enters Jackson Hole through Togwotee Pass, altitude 9,658 feet, and the Buffalo Fork of the Snake River, joining the road from Yellowstone Park, 1 mile north of Moran. The south road enters Jackson Hole via Hoback Canyon. This is an improved highway (US 187) leaving Rock Springs, Wyo., on the Lincoln Highway. United States Highway No. 89 leading to Kemmerer, Wyo., connects with United States Highway No. 187 at Daniel, Wyo. The western approach road from Idaho, via Teton Pass, to Wilson and Jackson crosses the Teton Range at an altitude of 8,431 feet. This road connects with the West Yellowstone-Salt Lake City Highway (U S 191) at Sugar City, Idaho, or by traveling via Pine Creek Pass and Swan Valley, at Idaho Falls.
BY RAILROAD
At the present time parties may reach the Grand Teton National Park by using rail lines to several gateways. The Union Pacific System has its nearest terminal at Victor, Idaho. It operates daily trains to and from Victor in the tourist season, and there is bus service from the rail terminus to Jackson, Grand Teton National Park, and Moran. Union Pacific passengers upon leaving the train at Rock Springs, Wyo., may make connections with the mail stage which leaves daily except Sunday to the Teton region, by way of Hoback Canyon.
For many years the Yellowstone Park Transportation Co. has operated daily bus service between Old Faithful and Moran. It makes connections at Old Faithful, which enable passengers coming to Yellowstone Park via the Union Pacific (West Yellowstone Gateway), Northern Pacific (Gardiner Gateway), Chicago, Burlington & Quincy (Cody Gateway), and Chicago, Milwaukee, St. Paul and Pacific (Gallatin Gateway), to reach the Grand Teton National Park.
BY AIRPLANE
United Air Lines in its transcontinental route from New York to San Francisco has a stop at Rock Springs, Wyo., which makes available for persons of limited time an opportunity to visit the park.
A mail stage leaves Rock Springs daily, except Sunday, for Grand Teton National Park via the Hoback Canyon.
National Park Airways, connecting with United Air Lines at Salt Lake City, operates daily during the summer season via Idaho Falls and West Yellowstone to Butte and Great Falls, Mont.
POINTS OF INTEREST ALONG THE WAY
The Grand Teton National Park is located in the interior of a vast mountain region, and its avenues of approach are, of necessity, through canyons and passes. These approaches are themselves of great interest and beauty, and afford magnificent distant views of the Teton Range. The country traversed is rich in associations of the Old West and contains numerous historic shrines which deserve the attention of the passing traveler.
The north approach, from Yellowstone Park by United States Highway No. 287, passes over the Continental Divide just a few miles south of West Thumb, and in leaving the Yellowstone Plateau follows the course of Lewis River. In the dense forests along this wilderness stream there are opportunities to see big game, such as elk, deer, moose, and bears. Descending into Jackson Hole, the highway skirts the east shore of Jackson Lake, and the view of the distant Tetons, rising from the far shore of the lake, is one the traveler will not soon forget. At this distance they glisten in delicate blue and white, so sharp they seem actually to bristle.
The west approach, from Salt Lake City and points farther west, leaves United States Highways Nos. 91 and 191 at Idaho Falls or Sugar City, Idaho, traverses historic Teton Basin, the "Pierres Hole" of the early trappers, and passes over Teton Pass, elevation 8,429 feet, to the town of Jackson, which lies in the south end of Jackson Hole about 15 miles south of Teton Park headquarters. This approach is the only one from which the three Tetons, noted landmarks of a century ago, stand out prominently, and the view of this trio is highly impressive. No less spectacular is the panorama of Jackson Hole revealed as one reaches the summit of Teton Pass. Undoubtedly the Teton Pass view is the finest to be had of this basin from any point on the highways.
The south approach, from Evanston, Kemmerer, Rock Springs, and other towns in southern Wyoming, follows United States Highway No. 187 or US 89, and avoids all high mountain passes, entering Jackson Hole by way of the Hoback Canyon. This road does not open up glimpses of the Tetons until one is well into Jackson Hole, but it affords excellent views of the snow-clad Wind River Range. Strung along its course is a series of interesting monuments marking such historic spots as the site of Fort Bonneville, founded in 1832; the location of the fur trappers' rendezvous of 1824; the grave of John Hoback, guide to the early expedition known as "the Astorians"; and similar interesting places. At a point called "Names Hill", between Kemmerer and Tulsa, Wyo., can be seen names and dates as old as the 1820's carved in sandstone by the early trappers and travelers in this region.
The east approach, from the Black Hills, Casper, and points farther east, crosses the Wind River Range into Jackson Hole over the Continental Divide at Togwotee Pass, on United States Highway No. 287. If so desired, in driving from Casper to Lander one can choose the modern road which retraces part of the Oregon Trail, past such famous landmarks on the old trail as Independence Rock, Devils Gate, Muddy Gap, Whiskey Gap, and Split Rock. From Lander or Riverton a visit to the Shoshone Indian Reservation can be made with little increase of mileage. The approach to Togwotee Pass from either side is surprisingly fine, and the view of the Tetons from points just west of this pass is one of the finest obtainable. For boldness and jaggedness of skyline the Tetons thus seen from a distance of 40 miles have no rival anywhere.
ACCOMMODATIONS AND EXPENSES
There are no hotels or lodges within the park, but these accommodations are available nearby at Jackson and Moran at reasonable rates. Dude ranches and cabin camps near the park also offer suitable accommodations at reasonable rates. The National Park Service has no control over these enterprises.