AMERICAN BILLIARDS.
The four ball, or “American game” of billiards, differs both from the English and French game, and in a measure combines the merits of both. Though it does not require the skill the French game does, it avoids, by custom, the simple, mechanical “hazard” feature of the English game, as first-class American billiard-players at the hazard and carom game never hole the spot ball consecutively, as in the English game. In fact, the hazard feature of the American game is rapidly falling into disuse, the four ball carom game taking its place.
The American tables now are made without side pockets, and no saloon has any tables of this kind, except for playing pool; the four pocket tables and carom tables without pockets being the only style in vogue now. The four pocket tables were introduced by Michael Phelan, Esq., the “father” of the game in America.
The general principles of the American game, which unites those of all others, are as follows:—
THE CAROM.
To make a carom, the player must cause his own ball to strike two or more balls in the same shot.
When he strikes his adversary’s ball, and either the light or dark red, he scores two.
When he strikes the two red balls, or, in billiard phrase, caroms on them, he scores three.
THE HAZARD.
There are two sorts of hazards—winning and losing.
A WINNING HAZARD is made by pocketing the adversary’s ball, or either of the red balls.
In the first case, the player scores two; in the second, he scores three.
When the player pockets his own ball it is a LOSING HAZARD. If his ball is pocketed after having struck the white or adversary’s ball, two points are added to the adversary’s score.
If the ball is pocketed after having struck either of the red balls, three points are added to the adversary’s score.
If the ball be pocketed after having made a carom or winning hazard, the player cannot score the count he may have made.
A miss, or a failure on the part of the player to strike any other ball with his own, counts one for the opponent.
The word carom, used in this portion of the work, is derived from the French word “carombolage.” In England the word “cannon” is used, an evidently corrupt derivation.
In learning all games of billiards practical experience is the best teacher. No amount of intellectual study can impart to a novice the manual dexterity and adroitness essential to the display of the beauties of the game. But months of labour and learning by practical experience alone may be avoided by learning thoroughly beforehand the principles of the science afterwards to be practised as an art.
Among the most important things in billiards is a good attitude, and to attain this should be the student’s first effort. Good attitude is the ‘groundwork’ of a player’s success. If his attitude be ungraceful, viz. strained or unnatural, his playing will assuredly be unreliable.
The student’s attitude must, in the first place, be perfectly easy and natural. His left foot should be slightly advanced, in a straight line, the right drawn backwards and pointing outwards, to the extent and at the angle most familiar and convenient to the player. The left arm should be extended and supported on the table by the tips of the fingers and the junction of the palm and the wrist (which position of the hand constitutes the natural bridge). His body should be perfectly balanced, and should form an acute angle with the side of the table at which he stands. The tapering end of the cue should rest in the natural groove formed by the elevation of the thumb; the thick end should be grasped in the right hand, loosely while being drawn back preparatory to the stroke, and firmly at the moment of contact with the ball. The cue should be held in a perfectly horizontal position, except in the case of some particular strokes, which will be described in the proper place. Beginners should pay especial attention to this. It should be impelled chiefly by the fore-arm, while the body should remain perfectly steady, as the slightest swaying motion of it will give a false direction to the stroke. The speed of the cue, and not the weight of the body, gives strength to the stroke.
In the [instructions] in the game contained in the body of this work, the fundamental principles of the game are fully exemplified and enlarged upon. But there are exceptions to these fundamental rules to which we now briefly refer, and among them may be prominently named the results of the different degrees of strength with which the cue ball is struck, inasmuch as important modifications of the angles of incidence and reflexion are produced by the varieties of strength in the impulsion of the ball.
It is a general law that the angle of incidence is equal to the angle of reflexion; this law is, however, modified in billiards by the degree of strength with which the cue ball is struck. The angle which the cue-ball will take after striking a cushion, being materially altered by the force imparted to it, the greater the strength the more acute will the angle of reflexion become.
When the ball, instead of being played against a fixed and inert body, such as a cushion, is played against a moveable sphere, such as itself, the angle formed by the line of direction of the object-ball, and the line of the subsequent course of the cue-ball, will be more obtuse the greater the strength communicated to the cue-ball.
Without an approximate knowledge of the different degrees of strength to be imparted in order to produce different angles, the pupil labours through a maze of uncertainty; and if not of a patient and reflective tendency, is inclined to arrive at the hasty and erroneous conclusion, that chance constitutes an important element in successful billiard playing.
Before commenting further on the game we will proceed to give the rules of the American four ball game, and also of the French three ball game as played in America; and here we would acknowledge our indebtedness to Messrs. Phelan and Collender, the great billiard-table manufacturers of the United States, for the privilege of quoting from their complete publications on the science and practice of the game of billiards.
RULES OF THE AMERICAN FOUR BALL GAME, BY MICHAEL PHELAN, Esq.
ON STRINGING FOR THE LEAD.
Whoever, playing from within the “string-line” against an outside cushion, brings the returning cue-ball nearest the head cushion, which is the one at which the players stand, is entitled to choice of balls and lead. Provided—
1. That, in stringing, the player’s ball has not touched his opponent’s while the latter was at rest. 2. Nor has fallen into any of the pockets. In either case the player loses choice and lead. 3. Should the cue-balls, both being in motion, come in contact, the strokes are invalid, and must be played over.
2. In “stringing,” it is required that both cue-balls shall be struck simultaneously, or so nearly together that one ball cannot reach the lower cushion before the other has been put in motion.
Note.—It will be well for players to bear in mind also that in “stringing” for the lead both cue-balls should be struck, if not simultaneously, at least so near together that one ball cannot reach the lower cushion before the other has been put in motion.
ON LEADING.
1. The player who wins the choice of balls and lead must either roll his ball down towards the lower cushion, as an object for his adversary to play at, or else compel his adversary to lead off as above described.
2. In leading, the player’s ball must be played from within the string-line, and struck with sufficient strength to carry it beyond the deep-red ball on its appropriate spot at the foot of the table. But it must not be played with such strength as to repass, after coming in contact with the lower cushion, the deep-red ball. Nor yet must it touch either red ball, nor lodge on the cushion, nor fall into a pocket, nor jump off the table. In any of the cases mentioned in this section, or in case the cue-ball is not struck with sufficient strength to pass beyond the deep-red, it shall be optional with the adversary (Player No. 2) to make No. 1 spot his ball on the pool spot nearest the lower cushion, or lead again: or he may take the lead himself.
3. No count or forfeiture can be made or incurred until two strokes have been played.
4. Once the lead is made, the game is considered as commenced, and neither player can withdraw except under circumstances specified on [page 803].
ON OPENING THE GAME.
1. The game is opened by player No. 2 playing on the white ball at the foot of the table.
2. Should he fail to hit the white first, or fail to hit it at all, he forfeits one point, which shall be added to his adversary’s score. Should he pocket himself after hitting a red ball first, he loses three points, even though he may have subsequently hit the white.
ON FORFEITURES.
1. If the striker fails to hit any of the other balls with his own, he forfeits one point, which, as well as other forfeitures, must be added to his adversary’s score. (See [note], page 812.)
2. The striker forfeits two when the ball that he plays with is pocketed, or lodges on the cushion, or goes over the table, after having struck or been in fixed contact with the other white, no matter whether it has touched one or both of the reds.
[An exception to this clause will be found in [Sec. 2], on “Opening the Game.”]
3. The striker forfeits three when the ball that he plays with is pocketed, or lodges on the cushion, or goes over the table, after having come in contact with one or both of the reds, and not the white. The same applies if neither red nor white be struck.
4. If the player cause any ball to jump off the table, and should it, by striking any of the bystanders, be flung back upon the table, it must still be treated as if it had fallen to the floor. If a red ball, it must be spotted; if a white, held in hand. Should it be the last striker’s ball, he forfeits two or three, the same as if he had gone into a pocket.
ON FOUL STROKES.
The penalty of a foul stroke is, that the player cannot count any points he may have made by such stroke, and his adversary is entitled to the next play. The following, in addition to those already mentioned, are foul strokes:—
1. If either player plays with his opponent’s ball, the stroke is foul; and, if successful, he cannot count, provided the error is found out before a second shot is made.
2. Should two or more strokes have been made previous to the discovery, the reckoning cannot be disturbed, and the player may continue his run with the same ball, or he may have the balls changed. The same privilege is extended to the opposing player when his turn comes to play.
3. Should it be found that both players have used the wrong ball successively, he who was first to play with the wrong ball cannot put in a claim of foul against his opponent, as the latter, in using the wrong ball, was simply playing from his proper position on the table.
[It is the position of the cue-ball, and not its mere colour or designation, that governs. Aside from this, before one player can charge another with error, it must be shown that no act of his contributed to that error.]
4. Though the striker, when playing with the wrong ball, cannot count what points he may make, except in those cases mentioned above, nevertheless, whatever forfeitures he may incur while playing with the wrong ball, he is bound to pay, as if he had been playing with his own.
5. Should, however, both the white balls be off the table together, and should either player, by mistake, pick up the wrong one and play with it, the stroke must stand, and he can count whatever he has made.
[As he plays from his proper position, it is immaterial, because no advantage is to be gained, which ball he uses. In this case, as in the others where it is permitted to play with the wrong ball, the balls should be changed at the conclusion of the run. This will prevent confusion and disputes.]
6. If the striker play at a ball before it is fully at rest, or while any other ball is rolling on the table, the stroke is foul.
7. If, after going into a pocket, a cue-ball or an object-ball should rebound and return to the bed of the table, it must be treated as a ball not pocketed.
8. If the player, when playing with the butt or side of his cue, does not withdraw the butt or side before the cue-ball touches the object-ball, the stroke is foul.
9. A stroke made while a red ball is off the table, provided its spot is unoccupied, is foul. When its proper spot is occupied, the red must remain off the table until its spot is vacated and all the balls have ceased rolling. [See following rule.]
10. If the game being played is one in which hazards, or pockets, do not count, a red ball that has been pocketed or forced off the table shall be spotted on another spot, provided its own is occupied, and provided also the non-striker’s ball is off the table at the time. If the light-red, it shall be placed on the dark-red spot; and if that spot is occupied, the light-red shall be placed on the pool spot at the foot of the table. If the dark-red, it shall be placed on the light-red spot, &c. If both reds are off the table at the same time, and their spots are occupied by the two whites, one of the reds may be placed on the pool spot. The other must remain off the table until its proper spot is vacant.
Note.—In the full game, or when pockets are counted, the old rule applies, and the red ball, when its spot is occupied, must remain off the table until its spot is uncovered and all the balls have ceased rolling.
11. If, after making a successful stroke, the player obstructs or otherwise affects the free course of any ball in motion, the stroke is foul, and he cannot score the points made thereby.
12. A touch is a shot. And if, while the balls are at rest, a player touches or disturbs any ball on the table other than his own, it is foul. He has, however, the privilege of playing a stroke for safety, provided his own ball has not been touched, but he can make no count on the shot.
13. In playing a shot, if the cue leaves the ball and touches it again, the stroke is foul.
14. If the striker, through stretching forward or otherwise, has not at least one foot on the floor while striking, the shot is foul, and no points can be reckoned.
15. If, when the player’s ball is in hand, he does not cause it to pass outside the string before touching any of the object-balls or cushion (except in the case mentioned in the following rule), the stroke is foul, and his opponent may choose whether he will play with the balls as they are, have them replaced in their original positions, or cause the stroke to be played over; or, should the player make a losing hazard under such circumstances, the penalty may be enforced.
16. Playing at a ball whose base or point of contact with the table is outside the “string,” is considered playing out of the “string;” and the stroke is a fair one, even though the side which the cue-ball strikes is hanging over, and therefore within the “string.”
17. Playing directly at a ball that is considered in the “string” is foul, even though the cue-ball should pass wholly beyond the “string” line before coming in contact.
18. Giving a miss inside the “string,” when the player is in hand, is foul. But he may, for safety, cause his ball to go out of the “string” and return.
19. If a player alters the stroke he is about to make, at the suggestion of any party in the room,—even if it be at the suggestion of his partner in a double match,—the altered stroke is foul.
20. Placing marks of any kind whatever, either upon the cushions or table, is foul; and a player, while engaged in a game, has no right to practise a particular stroke on another table.
ON CASES WHERE THE BALLS ARE IN CONTACT.
[At the request of a majority of the leading players, amateur and professional, the rule observed since 1858, under which no count could be effected unless the striker first played upon some ball other than that with which his own was in contact, has been amended as below. The new rule came into effect January 1, 1867.]
1. When the cue-ball is in contact with any other ball, the striker may effect a count either by playing first upon some ball other than that with which his own is in contact, or by playing first against the cushion, or by a masse. In either of the two last-mentioned cases, it is immaterial which ball the returning cue-ball strikes first.
2. Should the cue-ball be in contact with all the other balls on the table,—or, if with two balls only, while the remaining ball is on the table, in such a way that the striker cannot play either on the free ball or the cushion first,—it shall be optional with him to have all the balls taken up and the reds spotted as at the commencement of the game. It shall also be at his option to take the lead himself or compel his opponent to lead.
[This is the same as starting the game anew, except that there is no occasion to “string” for the lead and choice of balls.]
ON WITHDRAWING FROM, WITHOUT FINISHING A GAME.
1. The player may protest against his adversary standing in front of him, or in such close proximity as to disarrange his aim.
2. Also, against loud talking or any other annoyance by his opponent, while he is making his play.
3. Also, against being refused the use of the bridge, or any other of the instruments used in that room in playing, except when a special stipulation to the contrary was made before commencing the game.
4. Or in case his adversary shall refuse to abide by the marker’s, referee’s, or company’s decision on a disputed point, which it was agreed between them to submit to the marker or company for arbitration. In any one, or all of the foregoing cases, if the discourtesy be persisted in, the party aggrieved is at liberty to withdraw, and the game shall be considered as drawn, and any stakes which may have been depending on it must be returned.
5. Should the interruption or annoyance have been accidental, the marker, if so requested by the player, who is entitled to repeat his stroke, must replace the balls as near as possible in the position they occupied before the player made the stroke in which he was interrupted.
ON CASES IN WHICH THE MARKER MUST REPLACE THE BALLS, IF CALLED ON, AS NEARLY AS POSSIBLE IN THEIR FORMER POSITION.
1. In the case mentioned in the [5th paragraph] of the preceding rule.
2. Where any of the balls, when at rest, are moved by accident.
3. Where any of the balls, while rolling, are suddenly obstructed either by accident or design on the part of any person other than the player. In this case, the marker, if so requested by the players or referee, shall place the interrupted ball as nearly as possible in the situation which it would apparently have occupied had it not been stopped.
4. Where the cue-ball, resting on the edge of a pocket, drops into it before the striker has time to play.
5. Where the object-ball, in a similar position, is rolled back into the pocket by any of the ordinary vibrations of the table or atmosphere.
6. In all the cases aforementioned where it is specified that in consequence of a foul stroke the player’s opponent shall have the option either of playing at the balls as they are, or causing them to be replaced by the marker.
7. When either or both of the red balls are pocketed, or forced off the table, it is the marker’s duty to spot them before another stroke is played—except (the game being played is caroms and pockets) the spot appropriate to either be occupied by one of the playing balls, in which case the red one must be kept in hand until its position is uncovered.
8. If, after playing a ball, the player should attempt to obstruct or accelerate its progress by striking it again, blowing at it, or any other means, his opponent may either play at the balls as they stand, or call upon the referee or marker to replace them in the position they would otherwise have occupied.
9. It is the duty of each player to see that a ball is properly spotted before the next stroke is made. As in the case where a player is in hand, a claim of foul, after the cue-ball has been struck in the one instance, and the red ball disturbed in another, cannot be entertained. All claims to the effect that the red ball is not on its spot, or that the striker’s ball is not inside the “string” when he is about to play after having been in hand, should be made before the stroke is played, as it can seldom be decided after the stroke, whether there was any ground for the claim.
ON THE DUTY OF THE PLAYERS TO EACH OTHER.
1. Each player must look after his own interest, and exercise his own discretion. His opponent cannot be compelled to answer such questions as, “Is the ball outside or inside the string?” “Are the balls in contact?” and so forth. These are questions for the player’s own judgment to decide.
2. When the cue-ball is very near another ball, the player must not play directly upon that ball without having warned his adversary that they do not touch, and given him or his umpire time to be satisfied on that point.
3. It is obligatory upon the adversary or umpire to call “time!” or give some other notice of his approach, if, while the player is preparing to make a stroke, either of them desires to look at the balls, or submit a question to the referee.
4. Each player should attend strictly to his own game, and never interfere with his adversary’s, except in the cases mentioned in [Section 9], on p. 804, or when a foul stroke or some other violation of these rules may call for forfeiture.
ON THE DUTY OF THE MARKER AND THE SPECTATORS TO THE PLAYERS.
1. In a single game, no one, except the player and his umpire, has a right to interfere with the play, or point out an error which either has been or is about to be committed. The player to whose prejudice the foul stroke is being or has been made, should find that out for himself.
2. Even after a stroke has been made, no one in the room has any right to comment upon it, either for praise or blame: for the same stroke may occur again in the course of the game, and the player’s play may be materially altered by the criticism to which he has just been listening.
3. Let the marker and spectators keep their places as much as possible, for if they crowd or move around the table they are liable to interfere with the players, and certain to distract their attention.
4. When the spectators are appealed to by the marker or referee for their opinion on a point which he has been asked, but finds himself unable to decide, such of them as are well acquainted with the game should answer according to the best of their knowledge and belief. Those who know little or nothing of the game would oblige themselves and others by at once confessing their incompetency. Either they may not have seen the disputed stroke, or, seeing it, may not have been familiar with its merits.
THE THREE-BALL CAROM GAME.
This is considered by many the finest and most scientific game of billiards in vogue. The game is played with three balls only, two white and one red, and on a carom table. The red is placed on the spot assigned to the dark-red in the American four-ball game. At the commencement of the game one of the white balls is placed on the light-red, or upper spot, connected with which is a described radius or semicircle of six inches, usually marked on the cloth with chalk. The other white ball, being “in hand,” may be played from any part of this semicircle, which answers for what is known as the “string” in the four-ball game, and whenever the cue-ball is “in hand” the player has the right of playing it from this half circle. Points are reckoned by caroms, which ordinarily count one point each; but when the rule of counting, as in the four-ball game, is allowed, then misses count, but not otherwise.
In France, where the three-ball game had its origin, there is no standard code of rules to govern it. In America the following rules are observed:—
1. The game is begun by stringing for the lead and choice of balls, as in the four-ball game, the same regulations governing. In “stringing,” the players should endeavour to strike the cue-balls simultaneously, and he whose ball stops nearest the cushion at the head of the table shall have the choice either of playing first or of making his adversary do so—a privilege which thereafter shall belong to both players alternately.
2. Unless a special agreement be entered into between the players and the table-keeper, the game commonly consists of twenty-one points, if each carom counts one only, and of forty-five when each carom counts two, and misses are scored.
3. The first to play places his ball in any part of the semicircle, at his option. He then plays at the ball on the deep-red spot, and has no right to hit the white first without having caused his ball to touch the cushion at some point outside of the “string.”
4. Player No. 2, whose ball has been placed on the spot, plays in his turn. On a carom table he has the right to play on either ball, even though both should be within the “string.” On a pocket table it is his privilege to have the red placed on its appropriate spot, or he may elect to play the balls as they are. Should he adopt the latter course in this instance, or at any other time he happens to be in hand on a pocket table, he must, before hitting either of the balls in the “string,” cause his own to pass outside.
5. When a player is in hand on a carom table, and the other balls are within the “string,” he may play directly upon either. But on a pocket table, he can only play as described in [Section 4]. Furthermore, he must confine his ball to the semicircle, and not let the lower half of his body pass beyond the right line which the edge of the side cushion would describe if prolonged.
6. The player must have at least one foot on the floor.
7. A ball exactly on the “string line” is considered within the string.
8. The carom is good, and the points count for the player, even though his ball should be lost; and he continues to play. [A ball is considered lost which goes into a pocket, jumps off the table, or remains on a cushion.]
9. A pushing stroke subjects the player to the loss of the point or points he may have made by that stroke, and puts his ball out of hand.
10. A player who plays before all the balls have ceased rolling loses his stroke, and his hand is out.
11. When the cue-ball is in contact with one or more balls, all are taken up and placed as at the commencement of the game; and the player, being considered in hand, continues his play.
12. If the balls are disturbed accidentally, through the medium of any agency other than the player himself—as, for instance, through the interference of his opponent, or the marker, or other outside party—they must be replaced, and the player allowed to play.
13. If, in playing, or after having played, the player disturbs any ball other than his own, he cannot make a counting stroke, but he may play for safety. But if he touches his own ball, except with the cue, or if he touches it more than once with that instrument, the stroke is foul, and he cannot play for safety.
14. A player has no right to disturb the balls, and ought not to do it without the consent of his adversary.
15. When the cue-ball is very near another ball, the player ought not to play without warning his adversary that they do not touch, and giving him time to satisfy himself on that point.
16. Playing with the wrong ball is foul. The rules as to playing with the wrong ball in the four-ball game are applicable to the three-ball game.
17. Blowing on a ball, or using any other means to alter its course or position, is foul. If the player so offending is in play, he must yield the table to his adversary, should the latter demand it. In all cases, the opposing player shall have the privilege either of having the ball or balls replaced, or played with as they are.
18. If a lost ball, on being put back on the table, disturbs another, the ball so disturbed must be put in its place again by the marker or referee, and the player whose turn it is to play shall proceed.
19. The red ball being lost, and its spot being occupied, it shall be placed on the “string” spot; if this latter should happen to be occupied also, then the red shall be placed on the pool spot at the foot of the table. A white ball being lost and its spot being occupied, shall be placed on the deep-red spot, or if that is occupied, on the pool spot, provided that it is not the turn of the player whose ball is lost to play. In that case, there is no occasion for spotting the lost ball.
20. On a carom table, a lost white ball that has been placed on the “string” spot cannot be moved after the opposing player has played a stroke while the ball was in this position; but on a pocket table, where the owner of a white ball that has been lost is compelled to play outside of the “string,” he can, when his turn comes, play from any point within the semicircle, provided that his ball has not been struck by another. On a pocket table, it is held that a ball is in hand until it has been struck or moved from its position, it having been placed on the spot simply to afford the in-striker a chance to count. On the contrary, on a carom or pocket-less table, custom has made the rule that a lost ball ceases to be in hand after one stroke has been played; and, in consideration of this ruling, the player, instead of being allowed to shift the position of his ball, is privileged, in this country, to play at any ball irrespective of its being in or out of the “string,” and regardless, also, of whether he stands at the head or at either side of the table.
[Explanation.—The two rules last preceding may be further explained in this wise: Either on a pocket or a carom table, a ball that rolls on to and occupies the “string” spot in the course of play cannot be moved aside to permit the spotting of a white ball that has become “lost.” The lost ball must be spotted on the dark-red, or the pool spot, as directed in [rule 19], if its owner is not entitled to the next play, or within the semicircle if he is. But when, on a carom table, a white ball has been placed on the “string” spot by either player, instead of having rolled thereon, it may be moved aside to accommodate a “lost” white ball, provided that subsequent to the placing of the ball as mentioned no stroke has been played. In marked contrast with this, a white ball that has been placed on the “string” spot on a pocket table, may be moved aside at any time in order to permit the spotting of a “lost” white ball, provided always that the first-mentioned ball has not been touched while occupying the spot.]
21. A player who abandons a game declares it lost by so doing.
There is a pretty variation of this game called the “Pillet Game,” in which the above rules are varied only to the extent of requiring the cue-ball to touch the cushion first before a carom can count, the score in this game being ten points up only.
HINTS TO AMATEURS.
The old adage, “Experience is a great teacher,” holds equally true in billiards as in any other of the many occupations of life. There is no royal road to learning, but the student of the present day enjoys vast facilities over his ancestors in the acquirement of every variety of knowledge. Every new fact promulgated aids in the development of additional facts, which, though ever existent, have but just been discovered. Bearing these axioms in mind, we propose to embody in the present article a few hints to billiard players, which will enable the tyro at once to benefit by the information which the proficient has only obtained by years of practice and observation.
Remember that all players have equal rights, and that no gentleman will take any advantage of an antagonist excepting such as he may be fairly entitled to by superiority of judgment or of skill.
Never make any remark or unnecessary noise when your adversary is about to play, but stand away from the table and not opposite the pocket at which he may be playing.
Do not play carelessly, or strike at random, but with some definite object in view; and if no eligible stroke presents itself, endeavour to leave the balls as safe for your opponent as your skill will permit.
Never despair of winning a game; care and caution frequently insure success, even against apparent impossibilities. Fortune may seem to be against you, but remember that in the long run luck will invariably succumb to skill.
Attempt only strokes which seem to be within the compass of your abilities, except the necessities of the case require a deviation from this rule. This, however, is only to be considered a general law, and not by any means imperative.
Effecting the stroke at hand is but a part of the game, and the player should endeavour, in making this shot, to leave the balls in a position where a second count can be secured.
By way of illustration of some of the “points” in the game of billiards, we present below a few diagrams, and the first is that illustrative of the method of taking advantage of the chances for making points. The following is an explanation of abbreviations used in describing diagrams:—
A. stands for above the centre of the ball; B. for below it; R. to the right of it; L. to the left; and D. for diagonal. Q. P. means the strength or quantity of power with which the cue-ball must be struck. We describe as follows: Q. P. No. 1, strength enough to make the ball roll from the string to the lower cushion and back to the head cushion. Q. P. No. 2, from the string to the lower cushion, back to the head cushion, and from that to opposite the centre pocket. To propel it from the string to the opposite cushion, thence back to the head, and from that back to the lower cushion is Q. P. No. 3. Q. P. No. 4, is sufficient force to propel the ball from the string to the lower cushion, back to the head cushion, back to the lower cushion again, and thence half way down the table.
In playing billiards we frequently find the balls in a position where a count can be effected in several different ways. In such cases, it is advisable for the player to take into consideration the probabilities of effecting the stroke, and the position of the balls thereafter. If the stroke be at all doubtful, he should play where he would have the greatest prospect of success, or, in other words, “take the chances.”
We will suppose the cue-ball to be in hand, and the player desirous of securing a good “break.” The [diagram] below illustrates the position.
If, in the above case, the student is playing the usual game, it would be advisable for him to play on the object-ball, so as to pocket it and return over line 1, in this way taking three chances to make a count. If he is playing caroms alone, it would be better for him to play on the left of the object-ball, so as to draw it back in the string, as near the other balls as possible. To make the first stroke: strike the cue-ball 1⁄4 A., 1⁄4 R., with Q. P. 21⁄2; and if the object-ball be pocketed in the corner, as represented, the carom will be made on one of the balls numbered 2 and 3. To make the second stroke: strike the cue-ball 1⁄4 A., 1⁄2 R., with Q. P. 21⁄2, the object-ball to be hit ⅜ L.
BRINGING THE BALLS TOGETHER.
The grand strength and science of the game consists in managing the balls so as to leave them in a favourable position for the next play, or if the player considers it impossible to count, to leave them as safe as may be for his antagonist.
We cannot insist too strongly upon a perfect mastery of this art. After the player has acquired a thorough practical knowledge of the philosophy of the follow, the force and the twist, the next great essential is the exercise of judgment with regard to the feasibility of strokes and their relative relation to the game. The term judgment is applied to the choice of strokes. The player, for instance, may have two apparent shots; the first may recommend itself to him because it is more facile, but if made will leave the balls safe, while the second, although more difficult, will, if successful, leave the balls in a position where a second count or even a run can be effected. Judgment, therefore, would dictate that he should attempt the second, rather than the first.
The [diagram] annexed will illustrate our remarks.
Strike the cue-ball 1⁄4 B., ⅜ L., with Q. P. 21⁄2, the object-ball to be hit so as to make it roll over the lines, as represented, and the player will have a break of balls, which, with judicious management, will enable him to effect a long run.
With one more [illustration] of this feature of scientific play we close our article.
To play the balls as shown in the [illustration] following the player must strike the cue-ball a little below the centre, and with a deadened stroke, caroming gently on the second ball; the object-ball about one-third to the right. This carom should be practised until each position has become familiar to the player.
In either practice or ordinary play the beginner should never play carelessly, or strike at random, but with some definite object in view; and if no eligible stroke presents itself, endeavour to leave the balls as safe for your opponent as your skill will permit.
[Note.—There are two exceptions to this rule. The first occurs in leading off, and has [already] been explained. The second is where the cue-ball, while at rest, is in contact with another ball. Then the player does not forfeit. It is impossible to cause the cue-ball to hit, by a direct stroke, the ball with which it is in contact, and the player should not be penalized for failing to accomplish an impossibility. But, as it is possible for him to count by playing away from that ball—for example, by striking some other ball, or a cushion, first, or by taking up all the balls if his own is in contact with two or more—it is a settled ruling that, in case he should pocket his ball either by accident or design, or send it over the table, or cause it to lodge upon the cushion, he must pay forfeit—two points, if his ball was in contact with a white, and three if with a red.]