Field artillery materiel

by Unknown

Cleaning and Care of Leather.

All leather contains more or less oil. When the amount of oil decreases the leather becomes harder, less pliable, and shows a tendency to crack. It loses its elasticity and breaks more readily under sudden strains. Exposure to the sun evaporates the oil and exposure to the rain washes it out, both conditions tending in the long run to bring the same result, namely, hardening and stiffening of the leather. Accumulations of foreign substances are very injurious for they tend to absorb the oil from the leather underneath, leaving it dry and hard, or they retain moisture on the surface, prevent the air from getting to it and rot the leather. Also many substances such as perspiration and excretion from the horse contain chemicals which are very injurious. For these reasons all leather must be kept clean. The cleaning agent used is castile soap with water. All pieces should be taken apart and as much dirt and dust as possible removed with a damp sponge or cloth. All remaining dirt is then removed by washing with castile soap and water. In doing this always use as little water as possible. Wring the sponge out nearly dry, rub it on the soap and work it with the hands until a thick, creamy lather is formed. Then scrub the leather thoroughly until all dirt is removed. Special care should be taken around spots that have been in contact with metal perspiration or excreta. If there is an old accumulation of dirt a soft stick may be used to scrape this off. Never allow a knife or a piece of glass to be used or any sharp edged instrument. After all dirt is removed run the sponge in one direction, all the way along the leather to remove all remaining dirt and extra lather. Never allow the pieces to be rinsed off in a bucket of water. Metal parts should be washed thoroughly and dried and if necessary any rust removed with a crocus cloth. Although as little water as possible is used some of the oil in the leather will certainly be washed out, and, to keep the leather in proper condition, it must be replaced. After an ordinary cleaning this is normally done by an application of saddle soap. Saddle soap is not a cleaning agent—only a dressing for leather. It contains enough oil to replace, if properly applied, all loss through ordinary use. It is used in the same manner as castile soap, in the form of a thick, creamy lather, rubbed well into the leather and allowed to dry. The leather should be well rubbed with the hands while drying, to keep it soft and pliable, and to work the oil in. Always allow it to dry in the shade, preferably for several hours, and never assemble pieces, especially fastening straps into buckles until thoroughly dry. Oil is never applied directly to leather unless it has become so hard and dry that saddle soap is not sufficient to soften it. There is only one oil issued for that purpose. That is “Neat’s Foot Oil.” This should only be applied to the flesh side of the leather and very lightly. Several light applications give much better results than a few heavy ones. The oil should be well rubbed in with the hands and should be preferably applied after cleaning the leather with castile soap and water, as the pores of the leather are then more open and the oil penetrates much better. Never oil leather until it becomes greasy, for, besides wasteful, it makes the leather too spongy. In emergencies, where Neat’s Foot Oil cannot be procured any good vegetable oil may be used, preferably olive oil. This is only for emergencies and is not to be used unless Neat’s Foot Oil or saddle soap cannot be had. All new leather equipment should be cleaned with castile soap and water as soon as unpacked as leather very often becomes covered with mold after being packed in boxes for some time. Ordnance leather as it comes to the battery is very dry and should be thoroughly oiled before being used. New equipment after being washed thoroughly, should be given, in several light applications as much oil as it will absorb without becoming greasy. Each application should be allowed to dry thoroughly and should be given frequent rubbings to soften the leather. With the proper kind of preparation for use there is no excuse for the large amount of broken new leather equipment which is so common. In packing harness for shipment, especially into harness sacks the harness should be cleaned and oiled and then dried for at least twenty-four hours before putting into the sacks. After removing from the sacks at the destination, cleaning and dressing with saddle soap is sufficient. When the leather is dirty, clean it—not to improve its looks but to preserve it. When wet allow it to dry in a warm (not hot) place, in cold weather; or in the shade in summer. When it is dry apply saddle soap or oil. Never hang any piece of equipment over a nail or sharp edge as cracks always develop where the leather has been folded over sharply. Ordinary oils and greases rot leather, so all such equipment must be kept away from contact with them. Never leave any piece of leather where it will chafe against any sharp edge or corner and never leave it exposed to the sun longer than necessary.