CABINET TRIM
102. Hinge Butts and Hinges.—For cabinetwork, small, light hinge butts are used. These may be obtained in either bronze or steel, with or without ball tips, and in various sizes. The steel butts of this type are more commonly used, as they can be procured in all finishes, but for high-grade work, bronze metal is always employed. The usual type of cabinet hinge butt is illustrated in [Fig. 142].
Fig. 142
Fig. 143
A surface hinge is sometimes used in place of a butt, in order to eliminate the fitting to the woodwork that is necessary where butts are used.
103. Cupboard Latches.—A convenient fastening for cupboard doors, consisting of a pivoted latch actuated by a projecting knob, is shown in [Fig. 143]. This type of latch is furnished with two forms of strikes, one for application on the edge and the other for application on the surface of the jamb or door.
This figure shows a stock sample of this type of latch, but the student should carefully note that whenever possible such garish or gaudy ornament should always be avoided in all classes of hardware. Good taste is always better satisfied with simple and direct treatment as shown in [Fig. 144]; but where ornate styles are adopted, the character of the ornament should be artistically expressed as exemplified in Figs. [128], [134], [153], [155], [157], etc.
Fig. 144
104. Cupboard Catches.—The cupboard catch differs from the cupboard latch just described, although it is intended for the same purpose. The usual cupboard catch consists of a spring bolt that is operated by a slide knob. It is made in various designs, sizes, and shapes, in both the rim and flush varieties. Figs. [144] and [145] show several types of cupboard catches.
Fig. 145
105. Cupboard Turn.—There is a piece of hardware intended for the same purpose as the cupboard catch, known as the cupboard turn. It is operated by a rotating knob instead of the slide, and is considered the best rim article used for this purpose.
106. Cupboard Buttons.—The cupboard button is an old device, but is little used at the present time, except for the cheapest work. Various types of these buttons are illustrated in [Fig. 146]. They are made with or without plates, as shown, and may be had in either iron or brass.
Fig. 146
107. Elbow Catches.—A convenient fastening that is in quite general use for the standing leaf of double doors is illustrated in [Fig. 147], from which the operation may readily be understood. This device, which is commonly known as an elbow catch, fastens the doors automatically; it is easily operated in opening the doors, and thus does away with the old-style hook and eye. The strike of the catch should be placed beneath the shelf where possible, using the catch inverted.
Fig. 147
Fig. 148
108. Bookcase Bolt.—The bookcase bolt, shown in [Fig. 148], is an automatic fastening device that is mortised into the soffit of cabinets or bookcases having double doors. It is arranged in such a position as to engage with the top of one door, and is operated by the act of closing the other door, which carries the lock, so that both doors are fastened or released by a single action.
Fig. 149
109. Lever Cupboard Catches.—Another piece of hardware used for securing light doors, or leaves, such as are used in cupboards, bookcases, and wardrobes, is illustrated in [Fig. 149]. This fastening is very simple and convenient. It consists of a bar that is pivoted to a plate and extends through the door, its inner end being hooked to engage with a strike.
Fig. 150
Fig. 151
110. Drawer Pulls.—The drawer pull is a familiar article of cupboard hardware, the usual type being illustrated in [Fig. 150]. This article can be obtained in iron, steel, brass, or bronze, in various styles and shapes, and in all finishes. Drawer pulls with label plates are extensively used. A type of this drawer pull is shown in [Fig. 151].
111. Drop Drawer Pulls.—For cabinetwork, the drop drawer pull, as illustrated in [Fig. 152 (a)], is used almost entirely. The drop pull is made both plain and ornamented, examples of each style being shown in Figs. [ 152 (a) and (b)] and [153].
Fig. 152
Fig. 153
Fig. 154
112. Cabinet Locks.—The type of lock illustrated in [Fig. 154] is used on cabinetwork of every description, and can be procured for all classes of construction. These locks are made in rim, flush, and mortise styles, with keys having either plain or ornamental bows.
113. Cabinet Escutcheons.—In order to form a finish and protect the woodwork near the keyhole, the cabinet escutcheon plate is used. These plates are made in various sizes and styles of ornamentation, some designs of which are illustrated in [Fig. 155].
Fig. 155
114. Card Frames, or Label Plates.—An article known as the card frame, or label plate, is used extensively to placard drawers or cupboards to designate their contents. These plates are made in various sizes, and may be procured in bronze and iron and in the usual patterns shown in [Fig. 156].
Fig. 156
115. Hinge and Corner Plates.—The hinge and corner plate is an article used solely for decorative purposes on cabinetwork. The variety of designs and sizes now available is such that special patterns are rarely necessary. These plates may be obtained from the hardware dealer in all of the usual metals and in all finishes.
DESIGN AND SPECIFICATION
OF HARDWARE FOR BUILDINGS
HARDWARE OF SPECIAL DESIGN
116. Proprietary Hardware.—The manufacturers of hardware have assembled an extensive collection of standard designs in the various styles of ornament, from which fitting selections can be made for almost every use without danger of repetition and without fear that the design selected may become hackneyed by too general use. Therefore, before incurring the great expense entailed by the adoption of special designs, it is advisable that a careful examination of catalog designs be made. Where, however, it is decided to adopt some special design, the facilities of the manufacturer can be effectively utilized to secure the best results at the least cost and with the minimum amount of trouble to the architect or the owner.
Of all of the subordinate elements of interior decoration, there is none that offers a larger opportunity for effective results and for the exercise of personal taste than the metal work of the hardware for doors and windows, whether elaborate and costly, or simple and inexpensive. The knobs, plates, and hinges of a door compel attention by the prominence of their position. If they are inappropriate and unpleasing, they obtrude, while if artistic and in harmony with their surroundings, they attract and provide a finish unobtainable in other ways.
The impress of individuality marks all of the important work of the successful architect, and may be extended properly to the subordinate details of decoration, especially where it is essential that these harmonize with the general scheme. Hence, in some cases, the architect furnishes the designs for the hardware to correspond with the architectural treatment of the building. As, in the case of emblematic hardware, these individual designs involve the additional expense of special drawings, models, and patterns, the plan is seldom resorted to, except where the question of cost is subordinate to that of perfection of result.
117. For many years hardware has been generally regarded as an indifferent detail that could be safely left to the carpenter contractor to select and supply. Even when specified, it has been usually described in a very loose and vague manner, doubtless owing to the technical character of the information required and the difficulty entailed on a busy architect in obtaining and formulating it for use. Where, therefore, the conditions are such that an exact and carefully detailed hardware specification cannot be prepared, the only satisfactory plan is to exclude the finishing hardware from the specifications prepared for the building and reserve it for selection by the architect and the owner.
118. Emblematic Hardware.—Occasionally, it is found desirable to indicate the character or use of a building by introducing one or more appropriate emblems in the design or ornament of the hardware. This is especially true of structures for lodges, clubs, societies, and other organizations, in which case the emblems of regalia, badges, etc. are available for the motif of the design. In municipal, state, or government buildings, the coat of arms or public seal may be introduced in decorating the hardware, and in buildings for railroad companies, banks, etc., the monogram, seal, or name of the corporation is frequently reproduced.
Fig. 157
In all instances, the device selected is usually introduced as the central ornament of the door knob. This ornament is also repeated on escutcheon and push plates, and generally on the larger pieces of metal work; and while it may constitute the sole feature of decoration, it usually has associated with it a border or other ornament.
Fig. 158
The use of emblematic hardware involves the use of special designs and patterns, and thus entails a considerably greater cost than the use of standard patterns. In [Fig. 157] are shown several standard ornamental designs, while in [Fig. 158] are shown pieces of lock trim ornamented with heraldic, or emblematic, designs.
HARDWARE SPECIFICATIONS
119. The methods of specifying builders’ hardware differ considerably. Some architects generalize and use the same form of specification for buildings of all classes, while others are more specific, and itemize all the hardware for the entire operation, giving, besides the description, the catalog number and finish.
The first method is not considered good practice, and, though it involves little work on the part of the architect, it rarely produces the best results. Thus, wherever possible, the specification should be complete and comprehensive, giving a full description of all the hardware in the building.
120. Formerly, builders’ hardware could only be obtained in a few styles, and there was not much choice regarding its physical construction and mechanical operation, so that its selection could be left to the contractor or builder. Specification, therefore, usually included little more than a mere statement that the necessary hardware should be furnished and that it should be of good quality.
In recent years, however, the revolution accomplished in the designing and making of builders’ hardware has elevated it to an important place in decorative art, and, simultaneously, the creating of new and higher mechanical grades has radically changed the requirements in specifications relating to this subject.
121. A few standard forms of hardware specifications that should secure good results will now be considered. For convenience of reference, these several forms are marked I, II, and III. The first two forms are probably as good general forms of hardware specifications as can be written, but, while they answer the purpose in some instances, they should not be used where it is intended to have the general contract include all the hardware, or where it is possible to prepare an itemized specification such as that given in Form III. The numbering of the paragraphs in these forms is continuous with this Section, but in practice they generally start with 1.
FORM I
(See General Conditions)
Note.—Under the head of General Conditions preceding all specifications furnished to contractors by the architect, a series of binding requirements, reservations, and stipulations are specifically stated, and it is most essential that the contractor carefully peruse them, as he is bound by them as well as by the clauses under the heading of Hardware Specifications.
122. Rough Hardware.—Provide all the rough hardware, such as nails, screws, sash weights, pulleys, chain or cord, anchors, screw bolts, and all other material in this line necessary for the completion of the operation.
123. Finishing, or Builders’, Hardware.—All fastenings and metal trimmings used on doors, windows, transoms, closets, cabinets, pantries, etc. will be furnished by the owner and delivered at the building in the quantities and at the times reasonably needed by the contractor, he to apply the same under the direction and to the satisfaction of the architect.
The contractor is to be responsible for all hardware after delivery and until the completion of the building. He shall hang all doors, properly fit all locks, etc., and return them to their original packages until after completion of the painting or finishing, when he shall place them permanently. All knobs shall be covered with Canton flannel, to protect them from injury, and all keys are to be cared for until the building is delivered to the owner. The contractor shall place all keys in their locks or deliver them to the architect with tags attached, indicating where they belong.
The contractor shall furnish the manufacturer or dealer furnishing the hardware with details of woodwork or information that may be necessary in order to understand the requirements and to harmonize the hardware with the cabinetwork, and, where interferences are discovered, to have them adjusted before the hardware is delivered.
FORM II
(See General Conditions)
124. Rough Hardware.—Same as in Form I.
125. Finishing, or Builders’, Hardware.—The contractor shall include in his estimate the sum of _____ dollars ($____) for the purchase of the finishing hardware, which is to be selected by the architect or owner and charged to the contractor. If the hardware costs less than the stipulated amount, the difference shall be deducted from his contract price; if it costs more than herein contemplated, the owner will pay to the contractor the additional amount.
The above hardware is to include all fastenings and metal trimmings used on doors, windows, transoms, closets, cabinets, pantries, etc., and will be delivered at the building in the quantities and at the times reasonably required by the contractor, he to apply the same under the direction and to the satisfaction of the architect.
FORM III
(See General Conditions)
126. Front-Entrance Doors.—Provide for the front-entrance doors, cylinder, mortise, front-door lock and three 5" × 5" loose-pin, ball-tip butts for each door; also flush extension bolts 12 inches and 24 inches long.
127. Vestibule Doors.—Provide for the vestibule doors, cylinder, vestibule latch, keyed similar to the front door, and three 5" × 5" loose-pin, ball-tip butts; also flush bolts, the same as specified for entrance doors.
128. Side-Entrance and Rear Doors.—Provide for the side-entrance and rear doors, locks and butts the same as specified for the front-entrance doors. Exterior basement and kitchen doors to have 5-inch, three-bolt or 4¼-inch, three-tumbler lock and mortise bolt; also three 4½" × 4½" butts for each door.
129. Sliding-Doors.—Provide for all sliding-doors, Coburn trolley hangers; double doors to have locks with astragal fronts, and single doors to have flat-front locks.
130. Double-Acting Doors.—Provide for the doors where indicated double-acting in the plans, Bommer spring hinges or floor pivots of suitable size; also push plates, door holders, dead lock, and kick plates.
131. Miscellaneous Doors.—Provide for all other doors on first floor, 4¼-inch mortise lock with metal knobs and combined escutcheons; also three 4" × 4" loose-pin, ball-tipped butts for each door.
132. Doors on Second Floor.—Provide for all the doors on the second floor, 4¼-inch mortise locks with metal knobs and combined escutcheons; chamber-entrance and bathroom doors to have in addition a mortise bolt. Also provide for these doors, three 4" × 4" loose-pin, ball-tipped butts for each door.
133. Doors in Attic and Basement.—Provide for the doors in attic and basement, 3½-inch mortise locks, pottery knobs, and escutcheons; also two 3½" × 3½" butts for each door.
134. Transoms.—All transoms throughout are to be hinged at the top or the bottom or pivoted (as indicated in the plans), and are to have ⁵/₁₆-inch transom lifts to extend to within 5 feet of the floor.
135. Double-Hung Windows.—The double-hung windows on the first floor are to have approved sash locks and two flush lifts; those on the second floor, in the attic, and in the basement are to have approved sash locks and two flush or hook lifts to each sash. All window stops are to be secured with flush adjusting stop-screws placed not more than 14 inches apart.
136. Casement Windows and Hinged Sash.—Provide for the casement in the lavatory and on the second floor, 3" × 3" tight-joint butts and suitable casement fasteners and adjusters. The basement sash are to be hinged at the top with wrought butts and are to have bolts and hooks and eyes to hold them open.
137. French Windows.—Provide for the French windows in the dining room, 4" × 4" butts, three to each window sash. Also provide for these windows, flush bolts, 12 inches and 24 inches on standing leaf, and mortise turnbuckles.[1]
138. Bookcases and China Closets.—Provide for the doors of the bookcases and china closets, 3" × 3" ball-tip butts, two to each door; also locks and keyplates or mortise latches and knobs, and bolts for double doors. All drawers to have drop drawer pulls, two to each drawer over 20 inches wide.
139. Pantries, Dressers, and Linen Closets.—The doors of the pantries, dressers, and linen closets are to be provided with 3" × 3" butts, together with elbow catches or surface bolts for double doors. Also provide rim cupboard catches or mortise latches with knobs. All drawers over 20 inches wide are to have two drawer pulls. Flour bins are to be hinged at the side or at the bottom, so as to tilt, and are to be supplied with 3" × 3" wrought butts and bar pull or with large T-handled cupboard turn. Place in each closet one (or two) rows of brass-plated wire coat-and-hat hooks (or, bronze-plated cast coat-and-hat hooks) to extend around all sides; these hooks are to be placed not over 12 inches nor closer than 8 inches apart. Furnish rubber-tipped, wooden-base knobs for all doors.
140. Quality and Finish.—All of the above hardware is to be of Blank & Co.’s manufacture, except butts for interior doors, which are to be the Stanley Work product. All the hardware on the first floor, except kitchen and service portion, is to be plain, cast-bronze metal of the design known as ____, and ____ finish. The hardware of the second floor is to be of steel, in plain design and ____ finish. The hardware of the bathroom is to be of plain bronze metal, nickel-plated, while the basement, kitchen, and attic hardware is to be plain steel in ____ finish.
141. Miscellaneous Hardware.—The contractor shall furnish and apply all hardware necessary to complete the building, under the direction and subject to the approval of the architect.
142. The preceding specification is intended to meet the requirements of a residence, but may be changed so as to apply to other buildings by adding to the several items or by omitting some of them. In following the specifications just given, the specification writer should exercise great care in selecting the hardware required, using the best that can be obtained with the money to be expended. In all instances, the name, design, quality, and finish desired should be stipulated.
SELECTION, ESTIMATION, AND
APPLICATION OF HARDWARE
143. No other material entering into the construction of a building will pay a larger return in satisfaction, comfort, and permanent economy for the time and care devoted to its selection than the finishing hardware. The range of choice and quality has become too great for the selection to be left to the general contractor under an omnibus specification, and the practice of according to it the benefit of careful and discriminating selection by the architect or client, or both in consultation, is rapidly becoming general. Hardware has become a factor of utmost importance in the interior decorative scheme of the modern building, and its selection demands at least the care accorded to other elements of interior decoration.
The method that should be employed in the selection and purchase of hardware depends primarily on the existing conditions. If the building is intended for the purpose of sale or renting, or if cheapness is the dominating factor, then a competitive method may be expedient; but if the client intends it for personal occupancy or for permanent ownership, then competitive bidding is sometimes not productive of the best results.
In all cases, a preliminary examination should be made of the makes and grades of the commercial hardware available, and the amount that it is desired to expend on this item should be decided on. The process of selection is greatly facilitated by the elimination of articles outside of the grades selected. When the maker’s grade of goods has been decided on, the next step is to select in detail the articles, designs, and finishes to be used in each room, floor, or division of the building, making such notes of the decisions so reached as will be convenient in framing the hardware specification, or schedule.
144. Allowance for Finishing Hardware.—Architects are constantly called on to prepare preliminary estimates on proposed buildings, to assist clients to determine whether they can afford to build. For this purpose, the architect possesses an approximate knowledge of the cost of excavation, masonry, woodwork, etc., so that the necessary expenditure may be computed with a fair degree of accuracy. Builders’ hardware, however, does not readily admit of accurate preliminary estimating, and in many cases the architect merely specifies the sum to be expended for finishing hardware, stating that selections are to be made by himself or his client later, as the work progresses. This system is found in many instances to be satisfactory to all—architect, client, and builder.
The cost of the hardware usually bears a fairly constant ratio to the total cost of various types of buildings. The following figures, which are based on experience, indicate the range in this ratio under ordinary conditions. This schedule gives the ratio of cost of finishing hardware to the total cost of the building, land excluded.
| Type of Building | Per Cent. |
|---|---|
| Hotels, large | 1.00 to 1.5 |
| Hotels, small | 1.50 to 2.0 |
| Apartment houses | 1.50 to 2.0 |
| Office buildings | 1.00 to 2.0 |
| Office buildings, fireproof | .50 to 1.5 |
| Public buildings | 1.50 to 2.0 |
| Libraries | .75 to 1.5 |
| Hospitals | .50 to 1.0 |
| Residences, city | 1.50 to 3.0 |
| Residences, country | 2.00 to 4.0 |
145. Taking Off Hardware.—The compilation of the estimate schedule of finishing hardware for a building must be made from the architect’s plans and specifications. Therefore, where possible, this work should be done by a hardware expert or salesman, or by some person who has the ability to read drawings easily and accurately and who is capable of exercising thoroughness in every detail of the work. The first step should be to study the specifications relating to the general work, and especially that portion relating to hardware and carpenter work, to see whether the latter embodies facts that affect the hardware. If such is the case, notes should be made of the fact, and in many cases, by following this rule, miscellaneous information can be gathered that will be invaluable to the contractor and will prevent much doubt as to requirements. The drawings should then be examined, to gain familiarity with the building, the arrangement of the interior, and other details. Having thus acquired a general understanding of the whole subject, the compilation of the quantities may begin.
146. The list of hardware should be compiled in a systematic manner, beginning at a definite point in the building and progressing through the several rooms and floors in a definite order. This will insure the inclusion of every part of the building and the careful consideration of every opening or other place where hardware is required. For example, in the case of a residence, it is customary to commence at the front entrance, including the front and vestibule doors, passing thence to the hall, taking each room on the first floor in due order, passing to the second floor and taking each room on it in like order, and so on until each floor is covered. The attic and basement are usually left until last, because they require a simpler class of goods. The same general system can be followed in the case of hotels, office buildings, apartment houses, etc., the essential point being that an orderly method be followed. The rooms should always be taken in natural sequence, and all openings of similar character totaled and again counted on the drawing, so that the chances of omission are minimized.
147. In the case of doors, it is necessary to make note of the size and thickness, the hand, and the bevel, or rabbet, as required, using in all cases three butts on all exterior doors, and also three butts on all interior doors 7 feet or more high. The size of the butts should in all instances be sufficient to cause the door to clear the trim. The width of stiles and the general construction of the doors should be noted, paying particular attention to the front-entrance doors, as architects sometimes design these regardless of the hardware that is to be used on them. Frequently, a careful scaling and scrutinizing of elaborately designed doors will show a shelf effect returning back to the lock stile, covering nearly half its width, just about where the lock should be placed. Such defects can be remedied easily, if observed in time, by directing the architect’s attention to them.
In the case of sliding-doors, it should be noted whether they are single or double, what is to be the character of the hanger, or rail, and the length of the run, and whether the door has a flat or a half-round astragal. The width of the stile and the size of the friction strip should also be noted, so that the hardware will not conflict with the woodwork, molding, etc., as, where necessary, special backsets can be procured on sliding-door locks to overcome this trouble.
Where double-acting doors are shown, always take note of the thickness, width, and height, also of the width of the lock stile and the height of the bottom rail, so that, if push plates or kick plates are required, the suitable dimensions for them can readily be estimated. The dead locks for these doors should be ordered with oval fronts for single doors and oval fronts and strikes for double doors, to allow for neat fitting to the rounded edge of the doors. Where kick plates are required for double doors of this character, flush bolts should be mortised into the edge of the door, so that the lower bolt will not interfere with the kick plates.
148. In stating the information for windows, full details are needed as to whether they are single- or double-hung, French casement, stationary, or ordinary casement. Double-hung windows 20 inches or less in width require only one sash lift. Extra-wide windows, such as those over 36 inches, should have either bar lifts or two extra-heavy hook sash lifts. The window stops should be studied in detail, so as to estimate the number of screws that will be required for each window. In the case of French windows, it is well to determine the height, the width of the stile, whether the joints are rabbeted, beveled, or flat, the hand, and whether the windows swing in or out; detail cross-sections through head-jambs, casing, and lock stiles should also be procured if possible. In casement sash, the pivoting should be noted, so as to determine whether it is vertical or horizontal; the swing should also be observed, and if the sash are to be hinged, determine whether the hinges should be placed at the top, the bottom, or the sides. As in the consideration of doors, the thicknesses and sizes of all casements should always be noted. Sections through the jambs, trim, and stiles should be taken at the points where the hardware is to be applied.
149. In order to determine the kind and length of the lifters to be used on the transoms, it is necessary to note the distance from the floor to the center of each transom, also whether they are to be pivoted or hinged from the bottom or the top, and how they are to swing. The cross-section through side jambs and casings should always be ascertained, in order to see that the hardware will be suitable to meet the conditions of the trim.
150. It is necessary to learn all details of the pantry, including the thickness and height of doors, whether they are double or single, and the number of each kind. Note all drawers; those under 20 inches in width require only one pull. The details of the flour bins should be examined to determine whether they are to be hinged at the bottom and are to tilt, or whether they are to be curved on plan and are to be hinged at the side, as each condition requires different hardware.
151. Where unavoidable interferences are discovered, or where the plans and specifications are obscure or defective, a note of the facts should be made, and when all such matters have been collected, they should be submitted to the architect for his decision as a basis for final determination.
152. Application of Hardware.—Owing to the fact that hardware has become more intricate in its manufacture and therefore more complicated in its construction, it is found that the proper amount of intelligence is not always exercised in its application. Frequently it is applied so carelessly that the hardware practically loses its most essential features. In the case of mortise-lock sets, all of the better grades are made with easy springs, so that the door will close gently and surely. However, this one feature alone is sometimes obliterated by careless application. The trouble in this direction is principally caused by the carpenter fitting the lock into the door untrue, and then screwing the escutcheons to the doors out of plumb and alinement. This causes the knob shanks, when rotated, to bind, or stick, in the sleeve, or collar, of the escutcheon, thereby holding back the latch bolt after the latch is withdrawn into the lock case. It is also found that proper adjustment is seldom given to the knobs and spindles passing through the escutcheons. In many cases when the hardware is applied carelessly, the owner, not knowing the real cause of the trouble, condemns the best hardware as being cheap and unsatisfactory.
In the application of cylinder locks for either front doors or office doors, it is found that a great amount of inexperience is shown by the average mechanic. In some cases, the locks are inverted, with the cylinder below the knobs, when it is designed to be above; also, sometimes, in reversing a front-door lock with night work, good judgment is not always used.
153. Such troubles as those just described can be easily overcome, and if the methods of applying hardware that follow are strictly adhered to, satisfactory operation will be assured.
Reversing the ordinary mortise, or rim, lock requires no special ability on the part of the workman, as the operation consists of merely taking off the cap and turning over the latch bolt. Where, however, a mortise lock is to be applied, care must be exercised so that it will work properly. First fit the lock into the door at the proper height from the floor, making the mortise large enough for the lock to enter easily. Bore the holes for the knob and the key, and insert the screws in the lock face and drive them home. Now take the escutcheons, or roses, and knobs and apply them to the door, carefully adjusting the knobs and spindles so that there is only slight play in the length. Then true up both escutcheons, by holding one with the thumb and the other with the fingers. When this much is accomplished, turn the knobs right and left to see whether they work properly; if they bind in the collar, adjust the escutcheons a trifle, vertically or horizontally, until the knobs rotate back to the original position in both directions without binding. By using a scratch awl and punch carefully, the exact center of each screw hole may be located, and by holding the awl perfectly true the screws will be started true. The escutcheons may now be released and the screws driven home. If this method is carefully followed, workmen will find that the latch bolt will work properly in almost every case. Always try the knob, when the application is completed, by rotating both to the right and to the left, and if found to bind, always make the proper adjustment before leaving the work.
154. In fitting strikes to the jambs, it is suggested that the workman locate them as low as possible, to conform to the locks, leaving the margin in the strike below the lock bolts. Doors in new buildings are liable to sag slightly, and if proper allowance is not made, the strikes may have to be readjusted, sometimes even before the contract is completed.
It is also necessary for the carpenter or superintendent to caution the painters not to paint or varnish any hardware, especially the lock faces, as this will also retard the operation of the latch bolt. As previously stated, the hardware should be fitted to the work and then replaced in the original packages, so as to protect it from abuse and damage, applying it permanently only after the painting is completed.
155. In applying cylinder, or front-door, locks, the conditions are still more difficult to overcome. When reversing cylinder locks that have swivel spindles, unscrew the cap and reverse the latch bolt; also, reverse the hubs, that is, the parts of the lock through which the spindles pass. Cylinder locks should always be mortised into the door at the proper height from the floor, and the holes for the cylinders and knob spindles then made. Insert the lock into the mortise, but do not put screws into the face; then apply the escutcheons and adjust the knob, taking care that the swivel of the spindle centers at the joint in the split hub. Now proceed to screw in the cylinder to its full extent, so that the cylinder collar is held rigidly between the cylinder and the escutcheon, and the cylinder is perfectly vertical. Then set the cylinder adjusting screw, and insert the wooden screws in lock face and drive them home with the screwdriver. Hold and adjust the escutcheon so that the knob will rotate back and forth automatically without friction, starting the screw holes with an awl. If the doors are made of hardwood, an automatic drill will have to be used to bore the screw holes. In such a case, follow the directions just given regarding escutcheons; then start the holes with a scratch awl while still holding the escutcheons, and enlarge the holes with the drill. Screws that are off center, when driven home into the countersinking, will surely draw the escutcheon so that the knobs will bind and thus destroy the most desirable feature of the lock.
156. Mechanics will find that the better the grade of the hardware, the more care must be taken in its application. Hardware for fine buildings is generally furnished with high, or bracket-bearing, collars on escutcheons and screwless knobs for adjustment without washers. These are fitted and turned carefully, so that there is very little play between knob shanks and collars, and for this reason they bind more readily when improperly applied. The mechanic should try the lock in every possible way before leaving the work. He should set the stop in the lock face, to be sure that swivel spindles are adjusted properly, and also insert the key in the cylinder, to see whether it operates smoothly while operating both bolts.
SCHEDULES AND DRAWINGS FOR
THE HARDWARE CONTRACTOR
157. Hardware Schedules.—The contractor for the hardware usually takes off his own bill of material from the general drawings and the specifications furnished by the architect. However, the architect will sometimes supply the hardware schedule and obtain prices for the same direct from the dealer, thus saving the owner the general contractor’s profit and insuring bids based on material of uniform character and quality. It is well, therefore, to give some thought to the preparation of the schedule, so as to insure a good classification and to avoid omissions.
In drafting a schedule of hardware required for a building, it must be compiled from a copy of the hardware specifications and a list of all openings, cabinets, etc. that has been taken from the drawings. The schedule should be subdivided primarily into building sections, such as first floor, second floor, etc. as headings. Under these headings, each opening or group of openings in each room or division should be listed. Under the name of each opening or series of openings should be grouped all the hardware required, itemizing each and every article necessary and stating the quantity, numbers, sizes, or dimensions, design, and finish.
Schedules thus prepared are readily priced for estimating, and such classification eliminates the possibilities of omissions. Besides, the order can be executed by the manufacturer in exact conformity with the instructions, the hardware for each opening can be combined in a separate package, and each package clearly labeled to indicate its contents and the room or opening to which it belongs. The following shows a typical form of schedule:
The foregoing schedule is merely intended as an example of a classified, brief, and at the same time comprehensive hardware schedule. A schedule of this kind shows, almost at a glance, the nature of the hardware to be supplied, and if prepared by the architect, should tend to procure bids based on uniform requirements.
158. Detail Drawings for the Hardware Contractor.—In some architects’ offices, it is the practice to provide, on a single detail sheet, cross-sections of every type of door stile in the building. The time required to make such a drawing is slight, while the results accomplished are most useful. Copies of this drawing are furnished to the contractors for the cabinet trim and to the hardware contractor, so that each of them will have identical information and that the work will assemble properly when the hardware is put in place.
Such drawings should show the dimensions of the transverse sections of the vertical stile, or lock stile for each door, also the overlapping, if any, of panel moldings, together with the shape of bevels, rabbets, astragals, and any other details affecting the size and location of locks, hinges, butts, etc. The hand of the doors is usually, and better, indicated on the floor plans. A further argument is that the character and dimensions are liable to be overlooked when arranging the paneling of doors; whereas, both should be considered. The use of narrow stiles, special rabbets, and astragals, shelf effects, friction strips, etc. is resorted to without sufficiently considering the disadvantages that result from the contracted space in which the lock and its trim must be placed. Where the items just mentioned are proposed, the architect should ascertain what locks are available and should provide space for those selected. Special locks are always expensive, while a cramped space precludes the best construction.