WINDOW SASH HARDWARE
SASH TRIM FOR DOUBLE-HUNG WINDOWS
60. Sash Pulleys.—The pulleys for the counterbalancing of double-hung, or sliding, windows, while apparently unimportant pieces of hardware, are worthy of much consideration in their selection, and in the preparation of the specifications care should be exercised to provide the best pulley consistent with the character of the work. It is good practice to furnish the millmen with a sample of the pulleys that are to be used, so that the frame will be properly mortised to receive them when the sash are hung. By this method, the necessity of exposing the case to the weather during the erection of the structure is obviated.
Fig. 67
The common grades of sash pulleys are rough and cheap, and may be used for unimportant work and light sashes. For heavier sashes and important work, however, a better grade of larger and heavier construction should be used. It is important in specifying sash pulleys to stipulate the size of the pulley and to specify the diameter of the axle; also to state whether brass or bronze wheels and bronze faces are desired. Pulleys are supplied in 1¾-, 2-, 2¼-, 2½-, and 3-inch diameters. The required diameter of the pulley is determined by the thickness of the pulley stile and the diameter of the sash weight required to balance the sash.
Fig. 68
Fig. 69
The cases in which the pulleys are mounted in the cheaper grades are made of cast-iron, while in the better grades they are made of stamped metal. High-grade pulleys constructed of stamped metal are also provided; these are put together either by riveting the two faces of the pulley or by electrically welding them. The construction of a built-up steel pulley is illustrated in [Fig. 67]. The cases enclosing the pulleys are made of cast-iron, as illustrated in [Fig. 68 (a)], or they are constructed of stamped metal, as shown at (b). The ends of the facing of the case are made square, rounded, or auger-shaped, and are finished either rough, polished, or lacquered, or are faced with brass or bronze of any finish desired. The pulleys illustrated in [Fig. 69 (a)] are so constructed that the mortise in the frame may be readily formed by a special boring machine carrying three or four bits. This machine bores holes of a size to fit the several cylindrical portions of the stamped-metal case, as at a, a, a diagram of the mortising in the frame being illustrated at (b).
Fig. 70
The better grades of pulleys may be procured with semi-steel, brass, or bronze wheels, and with plain axles or with ball or roller bearings. In the cheaper grades of sash pulleys, the axles are formed of common wire, while in the better grades they are made of either steel or gun metal ⅜ inch in diameter. In the best pulleys, the wheels are turned, to insure smoothness of motion, and are made with grooves for cord, ribbon, or chain. All steel pulleys built up as illustrated in [Fig. 67] are of recent invention; they run smoothly, and are very easily applied. These pulleys are also made with ball or roller bearings, and may be obtained at a reasonable price.
Fig. 71
There is a special type of sash pulleys that may be used for twin and triple windows, where it is necessary to form a narrow mullion between the windows. This pulley is known as the Grant overhead sash pulley, and is used as illustrated in [Fig. 70]. At (a) is a twin-window arrangement, showing the sash on the two sides double-hung, each sash being counterbalanced by means of one counterweight. By this means, the frame mullion between the two sashes can be made as narrow as 2 inches, which is an advantage where the maximum amount of daylight opening is desired. Frequently, in triple windows, the center sash, as well as the two side sashes, is made double-hung. In such a case, the arrangement of the overhead pulleys would be as shown in [Fig. 70 (b)]. These pulleys provide a convenient means for arranging double-hung windows of this type, but sufficient room must be left in the head of the window to allow for the insertion of this pulley and the travel of the sash counterweights. The construction of this type of overhead pulley with roller bearings is shown in [Fig. 71].
61. Determination of Size of Sash or Frame Pulleys.—The architect’s specifications should stipulate the diameter of the sash pulleys to be used in the work, and this item requires careful consideration. Where care is not exercised in this regard, either the pulleys will be so small that the weight will rub against the pulley stile, or they will be so large that the weight will rub the jamb casing on the opposite side of the pocket. Standard sash pulleys are made in sizes from 1¾ to 3 inches in diameter, varying by quarter inches. In determining the diameter of the pulley required for a particular window frame, a good rule is to multiply the thickness of the pulley stile by 2.25; thus, a ⅞-inch stile would require a 2-inch pulley; a 1⅛-inch stile, a 2½-inch pulley; and a 1⅜-inch stile, a 3-inch pulley. It is best to specify that pulleys for metallic frames shall be of the larger size, namely, 3 inches in diameter; and also that these pulleys shall have ⅜-inch axles.
62. Sash Cords and Chains.—The sash cords by which the sashes are attached to the counterweights in double-hung windows are usually furnished by the carpenter, and are so specified. However, they may be specified under hardware. The specification for the sash cord should state both the size and the maker’s name, and for good standard work Sansom Spot or Silver Lake sash cords are the best that can be procured. [Table VI] will be found convenient in determining the diameter of the cord and the consequent size by number, as well as the size of the sash pulley.
TABLE VI
STANDARD SIZE OF SASH CORD FOR PULLEYS
Sash chains are made in the form illustrated in [Fig. 72], and may be had either in steel, red metal, or bronze. The sash chains in the market are usually made in four sizes, being numbered from 0 to 3. The makers, however, have no agreement regarding these standards, so that the numbering is not uniform; one manufacturer’s No. 0 chain may be his heaviest make, while a chain of the same number furnished by another maker may be the lightest chain that he manufactures. In order to provide against this discrepancy when specifying, it is well to name the maker of the chain. The lightest sash chain will support sashes weighing from 40 to 75 pounds, while the heaviest will carry sashes that weigh from 150 to 250 pounds.
Fig. 72
Fig. 73
63. Sash Balances.—By the use of sash balances, one of which is shown in [Fig. 73], there is no necessity for weight boxes, counterweights, etc. The contrivance illustrated has been manufactured for many years, and the original intention was to have it displace the sash pulley, cord, and weight for double-hung windows. Installing spring sash pulleys costs more than the older method of hanging by means of counterweights. They are constructed with a long, spiral spring enclosed by a drum, on which the tape [a, Fig. 73], winds and thus raises the sash. The coil spring in this balance is made of either light or heavy material, according to the weight of the sash it is intended to counterbalance. They are seldom used, however, except where there is insufficient room for sash weights. The steel tape is liable to be twisted and broken by jarring in operating the sash, and for general use it has been found that the most positive action is secured by pulleys and weights.
64. Weight of Sash and Glass.—In estimating the weight of window sash, in order that the size of the counterweights or of the spring counterbalance may be determined, the weight of the glass per square foot may be taken as follows: Plate glass, 3½ pounds; double-thick glass, 1½ pounds; and single-thick glass, 1 pound. To find the weight of the wooden sash, add together the height and the width of the sash, in feet, and multiply by 2.1 for 2¼-inch sash, by 1.67 for 1¾-inch sash, and by 1.33 for 1⅜-inch sash. The several sizes of sash given indicate the thickness of the sash frame. While these data for determining the weight of sash are not exact, they are sufficiently accurate to fix the size of the sash cords and pulleys and to estimate the weight required to counterbalance them. The best practice in counterbalance sashes, however, is to weigh the sash after it has been glazed; in this manner the exact weight and size of the counterweights required can be determined. The approximate weights of ordinary glazed sash are usually given in the catalogs of manufacturers of sash weights, pulleys, etc., and will be found convenient in determining the approximate weight of sash weights without making the calculations just described when estimating.
65. Sash Locks, or Fasts.—There are many different makes of sash locks for double-hung sash in the market. In [Fig. 74] are shown several of the older type of sash locks that have been used extensively. The lock shown at (a) is known as the Champion; that at (b), as the Ives, and that at (c), as the Boston. This type of sash lock, the construction of which is apparent from the illustration, has given satisfaction for a number of years.
Fig. 74
Fig. 75
Fig. 76
A newer type of sash lock is that illustrated in Figs. [75] and [76]. In [Fig. 75] is shown a sash lock known as the Fitch. This lock is made by several manufacturers, and can be procured in all finishes of iron for the cheaper class of buildings, and also in bronze metal for high-class work. It is composed of a helical cam, which is fastened to the top of the meeting rail of the lower sash and engages with a hook, or lug, that is secured to the bottom of the upper sash. The operation of this fastener is rapid, and the rotary movement draws the two sashes together horizontally and forces them in opposite directions vertically. In this way, it holds the sash fast and prevents rattling and air leaks. It also has an advantage in that it cannot be moved by inserting a knife blade between the sashes from the outside. The Yale screw sash fast illustrated in [Fig. 76] is an excellent piece of hardware. It accomplishes the same results as the Fitch lock; namely, drawing the sash together by the tightening of a thumb nut on a fine-pitched screw. This nut operates against a semicircular-shaped upright hook, or lug, on the lower sash, thus developing great pressure in the desired direction. While this sash fastener takes somewhat longer to operate than the Fitch, it repays by providing greater security.
66. Sash Lifts.—While sash lifts are not required for the cheapest work, as the window can be raised by pushing against the parting rail or against the mullions, nevertheless they are made to sell at such reasonable prices that it would seem advisable to place them on the lower sash of all buildings, no matter how unimportant.
Fig. 77
Fig. 78
Fig. 79
The common type of sash lift illustrated in [Fig. 77] is known as the hook sash lift. This lift is extensively used, and can be procured in any grade or weight, in either cast-iron, steel, or bronze metal, and in any finish desired.
The flush sash lift, the general type of which is shown in [Fig. 78], makes a better appearance than the hook lift, and is considerably stronger, from the fact that the casing forming the grip is let into the lower rail of the sash, and the strain is taken by this, rather than by the screws. These lifts are made in either steel or bronze, and in all finishes; they can also be had ornamented to correspond with the lock trim.
For heavy sashes, such as those in public and commercial buildings, the bar sash lift illustrated in [Fig. 79] is the best. This type of lift should always be used for heavy sash. A sash lift similar to the type shown at (a) is sometimes fastened to the under side of the meeting rail of the upper sash for the purpose of lowering the sash.
Fig. 80
Fig. 81
67. Sash Sockets and Pole Hooks.—In buildings having high ceilings, where the top sash is some distance from the floor, as is likely to occur in institutions, schools, and factories, it is necessary to provide “pull-down” poles for the purpose of raising and lowering the upper sash. The hooks used on the ends of such poles, which are made of some tough wood, are as illustrated in [Fig. 80]. Unless the upper sash is furnished with metal plates that have a hole, or aperture, the pole will be used against the mullion or upper rail of the window sash and thus mar the woodwork. The plates, or metal sockets, to engage the sash and pull-down poles, are illustrated in [Fig. 81]. They may be had in all metals and finishes and in several sizes.
Fig. 82
68. Stop-Screws.—The stop-bead screws, or washers, or, as they are more commonly known, the window-stop, or bead, adjusters, types of which are illustrated in Figs. [82] and [83], are necessary hardware adjuncts to the window trim for buildings of the better class. In ordinary work, these stops are secured to the frame by nailing, but when they are fastened in this manner, the stop-beads are disfigured if it is necessary to remove them. A cheap and good way of fastening these stop-beads is to use ordinary round-headed screws. While these adjusters answer the purpose very well, they do not allow for the adjustment of the stop-bead sidewise, so as to take up any shrinkage that might occur in the sash and prevent it from rattling, as well as making it air-tight.
Fig. 83
To overcome this deficiency, a surface washer, as illustrated in [Fig. 82], was originated. The surface washer was ordinarily made about ⅝ inch in diameter, and was provided with one large hole about ⅜ inch in diameter or with two smaller holes placed side by side horizontally across the stop. By this means, the proper adjusting of the stop-bead was provided for, the washer covering the opening, or hole, through the stop. However, the defect in this method consisted in the marring of the finished stop when adjustment was required, for the washer left its imprint on the woodwork, and, when shifted, this would show.
The best form of stop-bead washer is illustrated in [Fig. 83], and is known as the Taplin adjusting screw and countersunk cup washer. This device is composed of a sunken, or cup, washer with a slotted or horizontal hole in its base frame, so as to allow about a ³/₁₆-inch adjustment. This adjustment, as can be clearly seen from the figure, is made without marring, or disfiguring, the stop-bead in any way. These countersunk washers may be had in bronze or steel, those made of steel being finished to match the hardware, as desired.
Fig. 84
TRIMMINGS FOR PIVOTED AND CASEMENT SASH
69. Sash Centers.—When a transom sash is hung at the top or the bottom, regular hinge butts may be used; but where a sash is pivoted at the center, either on the sides or at the top and bottom, a pivoted arrangement, termed a sash center, is needed. For large sash or heavy transoms, and especially for those that are exterior sash, the rabbeted center should be used. This type of center is illustrated in [Fig. 84]; its construction gives great strength and completely closes the joint against light and water.
An excellent type of center, known as the Howarth sash center, is illustrated in [Fig. 85], the method by which it is attached to the frame and sash being clearly indicated. By this arrangement, the two parts of the center fold, or butt, against each other and form a tight joint, the stop-bead for the sash at the top and bottom being arranged as indicated at a a.
Fig. 85
There is a sash center, known as the Tabor, that is constructed as shown in [Fig. 86]. This center is used for very large sash that are vertically pivoted; that is, arranged with a center at the top and bottom. Such sash as these are used extensively in office buildings, because, by their use, the entire window may be thrown open at one time. The Tabor device consists of a special sub-sill, which engages with a ribbed joint strip placed on the bottom of the sash. By this means, a weather-tight joint is secured, and the sash is firmly locked in a closed position. By throwing a lever, the sash is raised above the astragal, or sub-sill, and can then be operated. The top rail is supplied with a filling strip having an irregular joint at the intersection with the sash, and is held firmly by a coil spring encircling the top pivot.
In [Fig. 87] are shown several sash centers of the common type. These possess no particular merit, but are much used for common work.
Fig. 86
Fig. 87
70. Transom Lifts.—The transom lift illustrated in [Fig. 88] is distinctly an American device for operating and fastening the transom lights over doors. This device is used extensively in hotel and office buildings. It is made in various styles and sizes necessary to meet the several requirements. The transom lift consists of a vertical sliding rod that is placed on the door jambs, as at a, with an arm at the top connecting it with the sash, as at b. Near the bottom is a clamp, or grip, that holds the bar a in any desired position. By a vertical movement of the rod, the sash is caused to swing. Transom lifts may be had for transom sashes that are pivoted at the center or for those which are hinged at the top or the bottom. At (a) and (b) in [Fig. 88] are shown the types of transom lifts for center-pivoted sash; the former arranged so that the sash pitches outwards, while in the latter the sash pitches inwards. At (c), the device is shown where the sash is hinged at the top, while at (d) the sash is hinged at the bottom. The several kinds of transom lifts made by the various manufacturers are practically alike, except for variations in the form of the grip, or clamp. The range of sizes and quality of transom lifts is large. The commercial article may be obtained in steel, copper or bronze plated, or in bronze or brass. They are made in ¼-, ⁵/₁₆-, ⅜-, and ½-inch sizes, the size being determined by the weight of the sash and the degree of rigidity and solidity desired to be obtained and expressed. For good work, the ⅜" and ½" diameters are used. The rods may be obtained in lengths of from 3 to 12 feet. In specifying or ordering transom lifts, the rod should always be sufficiently long to reach within 5 feet of the floor.
Fig. 89
71. Transom Catches.—In [Fig. 89] are illustrated types of transom spring catches, or bolts. These devices are provided in the several forms shown to meet various conditions. Those shown at (a), (b), and (c) have a ring, or eye, in the handle, to which an operating cord may be suspended, or into which a pull-down hook may be inserted, to operate the sash. The transom catch at (d) is made expressly for operation by means of a pull-down hook. In very wide windows, for the purpose of limiting the opening of the sash, these catches should be used in conjunction with chains instead of with transom lifts.
72. Transom Chains.—In [Fig. 90] are illustrated several types of transom chains. The chains shown at (a) and (b) are suitable for sashes weighing not more than 25 pounds, while that at (c) is sufficiently strong for sashes weighing over 25 pounds. These chains are fastened to cleats furnished with countersunk screw holes for securing readily to the frame and sash. When the sash is hinged at the bottom, these chains are used to limit the opening of the sash. They are sometimes employed as an additional guard, to prevent the sash from falling in case the sash lifter becomes broken. The ordinary lengths of sash chains range from 8 to 24 inches, the latter length being sufficient for the opening of the largest sash.
Fig. 90
73. Casement Trim.—The term casement applies properly to any hinged sash. It is, however, usually limited to windows that have a sill set some distance above the floor. Where the casement sash extends to the floor, the term French window is generally applied, although frequently the terms are confused. In designing casement windows, the details of the hardware should be such that the casements can be made weather-tight; and in laying out the full-sized details for the mill work for a casement sash and frame, the available hardware should be studied, so that the woodwork may be arranged to conform to it.
74. Casement Bolts and Fasts.—Casement sash may be provided with any good form of top and bottom bolts or hinged sash fasteners, but these should be supplemented by a good latch or cupboard catch at the center. Special turnbuckles, or casement fasts, constructed as shown in [Fig. 91], are on the market. All of the catches shown will securely fasten the sash, but the types shown at (a) and (d), [Fig. 91], will draw the sash tightly against the frame when the buckle, or fast, is drawn in place. In countries where casement sash are in general use, the necessary fastenings, including the top and bottom bolts, are embodied in one structure, as described in the following article.
Fig. 91
75. Cremorne Bolts.—In the best work, the Cremorne bolt is used for casement windows. This device consists of a vertical rod divided at or about the middle of its length, thus making two pieces, and is operated by a knob, or handle, at that point. Types of ornamental Cremorne bolts are illustrated in [Fig. 92]. As shown, the upper and lower ends of the rods, or bolts, slide vertically and in opposite directions, being operated by the turning of the knob, or handle. These bolts are furnished with suitable strikes, either of the plate or the box form, which are attached to the window at the top or the bottom. Since the ends of the bolts are beveled, they press the two sashes tightly together and against the sash frame when they are thrown in. A single movement of the knob, or lever handle, is sufficient to release both bolts.
Fig. 92
76. Espagnolette Bolts.—In [Fig. 93] is shown the Espagnolette bolt, which is similar in construction to the Cremorne bolt. This bolt consists of a vertical rod, but instead of being in two pieces, as in the Cremorne bolt, it is in one piece. This rod has hooks at each end, and, by a rotary motion, engages pins, or plates, in the window frame and thus draws the sashes together and against the frame. These bolts are usually operated by a pendant handle, which, when lifted to a horizontal position, will release the rod so that it may be rotated to fasten or to release the sash. For very high sash, a supplemental design may be used by providing a tapered hook on the opposite sash for the pendant. The Espagnolette bolt is usually heavier than the Cremorne and exerts more power in forcing the sashes against the frame; it is also more expensive. Both bolts, however, are available for use on doors as well as on windows, and lend themselves admirably to decorative treatment, as shown in the illustrations.
Fig. 93
The same care should be exercised in the selection of these bolts as for other hardware, and when ordering them, full-sized details should accompany the order, showing sections through the top rail and head-jamb, the bottom rail, the sill, and the lock stile. The exact measurement of the height and the width of the openings should also be given, and the information should state whether the sash swings inwards or outwards. The hand of the active leaf, as well as the height of the handle from the floor, should also be given. In [Fig. 94] are shown sections through a casement sash, illustrating the conditions requiring the use of Espagnolette bolts, and, as just stated, sections similar to these should be furnished the dealer, or manufacturer, so that these bolts will fit the construction when they are delivered.
Fig. 95
Fig. 96
77. Casement Adjusters.—In order to hold pivoted or hinged sash in a partly open position, it is necessary to use casement-sash adjusters. These adjusters, and the method of applying them, are illustrated in [Fig. 95]. In this figure is shown the adjuster applied to a sash pivoted at the top and the bottom, but the device can as well be applied to a casement sash hinged at the sides.
There are many forms of casement-sash adjusters, the common types being illustrated in [Fig. 96]. They are arranged for sash that open either inwards or outwards, and may be applied to either pivoted or hinged sash. Most casement-sash adjusters usually consist of a rod or a bar attached to the sash by a hinged or pivoted joint. The rod passes through a clamp on the frame, or sill, and this rod, when the clamp is tightened, holds the sash firmly in any desired position.
78. Window and Shutter Operating Devices.—The sash-operating device is provided for the purpose of controlling a number of sash in a line by one piece of mechanism. Frequently, divided sashes are arranged side by side in skylights, clearstories, and monitors. These windows are usually some distance from the floor, and the operating device must be so arranged that it can be worked conveniently. The device illustrated in [Fig. 97] is known as the Lovell window and shutter operating device, and consists of two longitudinal sections of pipe shafting a connected to cog racks b at the end. These cog racks in turn engage with a cog, or wheel, shaft c, as indicated in the figure. Connecting arms d, with swivel joints at each end, are arranged between the pipe shafts and the sash. The ends connected to the sash are secured to the same by means of plates and wood screws, and the swivel joint at the other end is provided with a sleeve, or socket, that is secured to the pipe shafts with a setscrew. The commendable feature of this device is that it is operated by a straight push or pull of the arm, instead of a twist, as in some other devices on the market. When the chain, or rope, around the large chain wheel is pulled, the cog is turned, and as it engages the racks, it thrusts one pipe horizontally in one direction and the other in an opposite direction. By this means, the connecting arms to the sash approach one another and lengthen the distance between the shafting and the sash, which movement tends to push the sash open, the sash being closed by the opposite operation. By this device as much as 500 feet of sash may be operated by one wheel, or “power,” as it is called. This chain wheel, or power, may be located either in the center or at the terminals, and by careful adjustment will simultaneously close all the sashes tight against the frame.
Fig. 97
DOOR HARDWARE AND
ITS APPLICATION
79. Door Pulls.—In [Fig. 98] are illustrated two well-known types of door pulls. The pull shown at (a) consists of a handle that is usually mounted on a plate and attached to either storm or single-acting doors, although, occasionally, this type is used on double-acting doors with the word “push” or “pull” inscribed on the plate. When used on double-acting doors, the door pull has a tendency to obviate the habit of persons placing their hands on the moldings near the glass when operating the door, but is subject to the objection of inviting a pull to open the door even with the word “push” inscribed on the plate.
Fig. 98
Door pulls are made in various metals, both in plain and ornamental design, some of the latter being very elaborate, as will be observed from [Fig. 99].
80. Kick Plates.—A kick plate is a modern device that may be applied to the bottom of doors to protect the woodwork from injury and wear, being used chiefly for double-acting doors and doors of public buildings. These plates are frequently made of sheet metal, but are much handsomer when made of cast metal and ornamented to harmonize with other metal work of the door.
Fig. 99
Kick plates should completely cover the bottom rail of the door, but if cost is the controlling factor, they may be cut down in height so that a margin of wood the same width as the side, or lock, stile shows above the plate. For instance, if the bottom rail is 12 inches in height and the stile is 5 inches wide, the kick plate should be 7 inches high. In all cases, kick plates should extend the full width of the door, allowing enough margin, when used on double-acting-doors, for the rounding of the edges. When used on single-acting doors having rabbeted jambs, the rabbet of both jambs should be deducted from the length of the kick plate. A typical kick plate of plain pattern is shown in [Fig. 100]. Such plates are generally sold at a square-inch price.
Fig. 100
Fig. 101
81. Push Plates.—On double-acting or single-acting doors, such as storm and duplex doors, push plates are used to protect the woodwork against soiling and wear from handling. These plates are made in various sizes, and are either plain or ornamented to harmonize with the other hardware. To obtain good results, push plates should be as wide as the lock stile, where possible, and from 12 to 30 inches long, according to conditions and use. Plates 20 inches or less in length should be placed on the door so that the distance from the floor to the center of the plate is about 4 feet 6 inches; for larger plates the distance from the floor to the top of the plate should be 5 feet. If used in connection with a cylinder dead lock, the plate should be cut or drilled, preferably near the bottom, to allow the cylinder of the lock to pass through the plate. The plain type of push plate is illustrated in [Fig. 101 (a)], while one of more ornamental design is shown at (b).
82. Sign Plates.—Although metallic plates with lettering are not usually included in the hardware specifications, they find extensive use in hotels, banks, and other public buildings. The inscriptions available cover every possible demand, including titles of officers, names of rooms, etc. Sign plates of various sizes can be procured in the following finishes: Bronze, brass, or nickel with either sunken or raised black letters; bronze or brass with black background or matte; white porcelain plate with blue, red, or gilt letters; and blue porcelain with white letters. Two typical sign plates are shown in [Fig. 102].
Fig. 102
83. Door Stops and Holders.—Since door checks and double-acting doors have come into more extensive use, the necessity of holding doors open has created a demand for door stops and holders. The door stop is a device for limiting the backward swing of a door. This device may also be constructed so as to perform the additional function of holding the door in an open position; it is then known as a door holder.
Fig. 103
The ordinary door stop is simply a wooden knob with rubber tip, or ring, that may be fastened to the floor or a baseboard, and is usually made up in the forms shown in [Fig. 103]. Better grades made of iron or bronze are also available. These come in various shapes, as shown in [Fig. 104]. Frequently, as shown at a, a hook for fastening the door in an open position is combined with the door stop.
Fig. 104
Fig. 105
The door stop with the hook holdback is not always convenient to use, so that the automatic holdback, or door holder shown in [Fig. 105] is sometimes employed. This holder can be disengaged by a pull on the handle of the door and automatically catches the door in an entire open position.
Where it is desired to hold a door in any position or to release it quickly, the rubber-tipped holder shown in [Fig. 106] should be used; this device is easily operated and controlled by the foot.
Fig. 106
Fig. 107
84. Chain Door Fastener.—The type of chain fastener illustrated in [Fig. 107] is generally used on exterior residence doors. This device allows the occupants to open the door partly without permitting entrance. It consists of a heavy chain, one end of which is attached to a plate, which in turn is fastened to the jamb with screws. The other end of the chain carries a ball or a hook that may be inserted in the slot of the long plate, which is attached to the door. By this means, the door may be opened only slightly, until the ball of the chain is released from the slot.
Fig. 108
Fig. 109
85. Door Bolts.—A large variety of door bolts is now on the market. These bolts are made in all sizes, in wrought steel, cast iron, brass, and bronze, and may be procured in any finish desired. The several types of bolts used in common practice are illustrated in Figs. [108] and [109]. In Fig. 108 (a) is shown a type of barrel bolt; at (b) is shown what is known as a cased bolt; and at (c) is shown a necked bolt. [Fig. 109 (a)] shows a spring bolt, (b) a spring-necked bolt, and (c) a type of shutter bolt. Various types of mortise bolts are illustrated in [Fig. 110].
Fig. 111
Fig. 112
Fig. 113
Fig. 114
86. Chain Bolts and Foot-Bolts.—A type of rim bolt used chiefly to secure the standing leaf of double doors is shown in [Fig. 111]. These bolts are made in various sizes, finishes, and grades, and in both plain and ornamental design. In the figure, the chain bolt is shown at (a), while the foot-bolt is illustrated at (b).
87. Flush Bolts.—Bolts that are intended to perform the same function as chain bolts and foot-bolts, but are sunk into the stile of the door flush with its surface or edge, are known as flush bolts. These bolts, which are illustrated in Figs. [112] and [113], are made in various styles, grades, and finishes, from the smaller kinds for cabinet purposes to the large, double-mortise extension bolt. A flush bolt with a knob is shown in [Fig. 114], while a heavy, T-handle extension bolt is shown in [Fig. 115].
Fig. 115
88. Door Springs and Checks.—During recent years considerable improvement has been noticeable in the construction of the devices known as door springs and checks. Formerly, the common torsion rod and coil springs, which are illustrated in [Fig. 116], at (a) and (b), respectively, were the only articles of this kind available. These devices have been in extensive use for many years, and have performed the work of closing the door, but not without the unnecessary bang and slam made by the door when striking the jambs. This was overcome to some extent, however, by the introduction of the air-check, which depends on the use of an air cushion to resist the force of the spring. In effect, each check is a small air pump.
Prominent among the older type of air-checks is the Eclipse made by Sargent & Co. This check is clearly illustrated in [Fig. 117]. At (a) and (b) are shown two methods of applying the Eclipse air-checks. In (a), the spring-check that closes the door is shown at a attached to the door, while its lever-arm is fastened to the door casing. The cylinder b is also secured to the door, and the piston c, operating in the cylinder, is applied to the door casing. At (b), the parts are differently arranged. The spring-check occupies the same relative position as shown in (a), its lever-arm being shown at a, while the piston c is fastened to the door and the cylinder b affixed to the head-jamb of the door frame. Either method is adapted for inside doors, but that shown at (b) is preferable for doors opening outwards, on account of fewer parts being exposed; the spring-check and its lever-arms, in this case, being the only parts exposed to the weather. In construction these checks consist of a cylinder b with a polished interior, in which works the piston c. On the end of the piston there is provided a cup made of leather that has previously been soaked in oil. By the insertion of the piston into the cylinder as the door closes, there is a tendency to compress the air in the cylinder, thus forming an air cushion with air outlet at the caps. These outlets can be regulated by turning, or screwing, the cap to the right or the left, as the case may require.
Fig. 116
Fig. 117
Devices of this kind, however, did not prove satisfactory until the introduction of the Yale-Blount, or hydraulic, combined spring and check, which is shown in [Fig. 118]. In this device, the coil spring a, shown in (b), is enclosed in the vertical portion of the check, the regulating of the tension being accomplished by turning the ratchet sleeve b with a wrench made for that purpose. The check enclosed in the horizontal part consists of a metallic piston c, without packing, that moves in a tightly sealed metallic cylinder containing a lubricating and non-freezing liquid. The movement of the door in closing depends on the escape of the liquid through a by-pass from one end of the cylinder to the center, this by-pass being controlled by a small valve that may be readily adjusted to produce any desired action of the door and thus permit the door to be closed silently, with a smooth, steady motion, and without rebound. Since the introduction of the Yale-Blount type of check and spring combined, other manufacturers are making similar styles, the most prominent being the Bardsley, the Corbin, the Sargent, and the Ogden.
Fig. 118
89. Sliding-Door Hangers and Track.—The first sliding-doors were usually carried on sheaves, or rollers, located at the bottom of a door, these rollers traveling on a metal track, which was either inserted in the floor or placed on its surface. This system, however, has been displaced by the more modern sliding-door hanger, which suspends the door from the top. The carriers containing the rollers, or wheels, run on an overhead track placed in a recess formed for that purpose above the soffit of the doorway.
The use of the overhead hanger requires a special construction of the head-jamb, not only to provide space for the overhead track, but also to furnish proper support for the brackets securing the same. It is therefore a good plan to determine in advance the type of hanger to be used, in order that the framing and other details of the doorway may be made to conform to it. The most important features to be considered in the selection of sliding-door hangers are the strength and stiffness of track, the provision for adjusting and reducing friction and noise, the strength and quality of the several parts, and the facility with which these parts can be fitted in place and adjusted when in use.
In order to overcome noise, the original overhead hanger was made with wooden track, which was placed on each side of the recess. On this track rolled the wheels in pairs, being generally riveted to an axle and having a space between them. The frame of the hanger traveled on the axle from end to end, to overcome friction, the adjustment being only in the hanger frame. Of this type of door hanger, the Prindle, the Stearns, the Warner, the Ives, and the Richards were the most widely used. The Ives improved wooden-track, house-door hanger is illustrated in [Fig. 119].
Fig. 119
Another form of sliding-door hanger, which is considered an improvement over the type just described, consists of the single or side steel-track hanger of the Lane or the Richards make. These sliding-door hangers are constructed entirely of steel, and the hanger proper has frictionless bearings, on the principle of the wooden-track hangers, but with one wheel to each hanger, running on a steel track fastened to one side of the recess. This combination is quite an improvement over the old-style hanger, and can be placed in position more readily. The wheels of these hangers, as shown in [Fig. 120], are constructed of two plates of steel, between which is placed a fiber wheel that is held in position by through rivets. The fiber portion of the wheel comes in contact with the track, while the plates act only as flanges, thus tending to reduce the noise caused by the operation of the door.
Fig. 120
Fig. 121
The hangers most extensively used at present are the trolley type, of which the Coburn is the original and the best of the various kinds. The track, a typical section of which is shown in [Fig. 121], is made of sheet steel, which is bent or folded into various forms, depending on the particular make. The carrier is contained in the interior of the track. The several features of this type of track and hanger are illustrated in Figs. [122], [123], and [124], which likewise show the method of attachment and the detail construction of the door head, or soffit, necessary to receive these tracks and hangers.
This type of sliding-door trolley track is also sometimes lined with wood placed in the steel trough, or track, as shown in [Fig. 125]. This makes the device absolutely noiseless, although the regular types operate with very little noise. Besides the Coburn trolley and track, there are the Richard and the McCabe. Both of these makes possess merit. The trolleys, or carriers, are constructed with both fiber and iron wheels, with ball bearings, running on a wooden or metal track, according to the type.
Fig. 122
Fig. 123
Fig. 124
Fig. 125
Fig. 126
This type of hanger and track is made in all sizes, from the smallest, for hanging small bookcase doors, up to the very largest, for warehouse doors. As shown in [Fig. 126], trolley hangers are made for doors of special design, such as accordion and parallel doors used to close up large openings. They are also made for elevator doors, freight-car doors, barn doors, and automatic fire-doors, with special construction to suit the various purposes.
Fig. 127
In factory and similar buildings, it frequently happens that one portion must be separated from another by brick fire-walls and that the openings in these walls have to be closed with tin-covered doors as required by the National Board of Fire Underwriters, the object being to reduce the fire hazard. Wherever possible, these doors are made sliding and arranged so as to close automatically, being hung on a slanting track with an incline of ¾ inch to the foot, and also counterbalanced with weights so that the door will stand at any point, as shown in [Fig. 127]. The cord or rope attached to the weights passes over a pulley and is attached to the door with a fusible link, as at a, which, in case of fire gives way and allows the door to close automatically.
The doors are usually constructed of seasoned white pine or similar non-resinous wood, using three thicknesses of ⅞-inch matched boards, the outside layers to be vertical and inner layers horizontal and thoroughly fastened together with wrought-iron clinch nails, driven in flush and well clinched. The doors are then covered with 14" × 20" IC bright charcoal tin plates of not less than 107 pounds to a box of 112 sheets. All joints are locked ½ inch, without soldering, and nailed under the seams.
The track for these doors is best made of round-edge bar iron or tire steel, ⅜ in. × 3½ in., being bolted to the wall with through bolts having nut and flanged washer on the opposite side, and held from the wall by cast-iron track brackets. The hangers are of wrought iron, ⅜ in. × 3½ in., provided with roller-bearing wheels and are attached to the door with at least two bolts. The binders are of wrought metal, ⅜ in. × 3½ in., with angle flange at back end to notch in the wall and so arranged as to grip and force the door against the wall when closed. In connection with this, a wedge is placed at the end of the lower chafing strip, and, when the door is closed, engages with the stay roll so that the door will be held close to the wall on the opposite side. Two chafing strips of ¾-inch, half-oval metal are placed on back of door with 1" × ⅛" flat strips of same length in front and bolted through the door. Bumper shoes are also used to prevent the binders from mutilating or damaging the tin covering at the points that strike the binders.
90. Door Knockers.—Although the medieval door knockers have been replaced by the modern door and electric bell, they are still used occasionally for decorative purposes, and, when required, they should be selected and specified with the finishing hardware. Door knockers are made in various styles, sizes, and finishes—in iron, brass, or bronze—to match the several designs expressed in hardware. The elaborateness of the designs of this somewhat ornamental piece of hardware is shown in [Fig. 128].
Fig. 128
Fig. 129
91. Water-Closet Door Trim.—The construction of water closets in public buildings has brought forth special hardware to meet the various conditions of convenience, simplicity, and hard usage. In ordinary work, the doors of water-closet compartments are secured with a hook or a barrel bolt, while in the better class of work, as in hotels and public places of this character, mortised thumb or knob bolts or, better, indicator bolts are used.
Indicator bolts, as shown in [Fig. 129], made both mortise and rim, are available for water-closet doors. In either case, the bolts are mortised into or placed on the inside of the door with the indicator case on the outside. The indicator dial has a spindle on the back, and this engages with the knob that operates the bolt. When the bolt is thrown, the indicator shows the word “Engaged,” and when turned back, the word “Open” appears.
Fig. 130
A simple form of fastening for water-closet doors is shown in [Fig. 130], which illustrates the flush, or half-mortise, knob bolt at (a), and the water-closet rim latch at (b). The rim slide bolt is also used for securing water-closet doors. All of these bolts are available for wooden partitions, and may be had for marble or slate work, when special strikes and bolts for fastening will be required.
Jamb door stops are seldom required for water-closet doors hung to wooden partitions, but when needed there is to be had a simple stop with a rubber tip that will answer all purposes. Where stops are required for doors hung to marble partitions the type shown in [Fig. 131] may be used. This stop has a clamp device that is attached to the marble slab by bolts and it will be observed forms a combination stop and strike for the latch or bolt.
Fig. 131
Fig. 132
Other water-closet specialties, which are not illustrated here but which are sometimes specified under hardware, are: Coat-and-hat hooks, cigar holders, cigar and paper holders combined, and toilet-paper holders. Each can be procured to secure to either wood or marble, as required.
92. Screen-Door Latches.—There is a light latch manufactured, either rim or mortise, for use on screen doors. It consists of a knob latch similar to a mortise latch or cupboard turn, but in addition to a hub, as in the former, it is furnished with a spindle and a pair of knobs, or lever handles. Latches for screen doors are also constructed with “stop-work,” so that they cannot be operated from the outside except by the means of a key. This latter latch is generally of the mortise type, having escutcheons on both sides.
93. Elevator Latches.—Locks or latches for use on doors of elevator shafts are usually operated by a key from the outside and by a flush lever handle from the inside. The latch illustrated in [Fig. 132] consists of a pivoted arm with a hook at its end to engage with a strike on the jamb. This type of latch is the one generally employed.
Fig. 133
94. Secret Gate Latch.—In [Fig. 133] is shown a secret gate latch, which is used for office gates. Latches of this kind may be had in either the rim or the mortise type. They usually consist of a spring bolt that cannot be operated except by a concealed button or similar device. In the type of latch shown in the figure, the concealed button that controls the latch is located on the lower edge. The knob shown is fixed and does not operate the latch.
95. Ornamental Nails and Studs.—Although the constructive necessity for ornamental studs and nail heads has disappeared under modern methods of wooden construction, they are still used for purposes of decoration, and a great variety may be had. Several stock designs are illustrated in [Fig. 134]. These nails and studs are made of various metals and in many finishes, having a projecting spur on the back that, when driven into the wood, firmly attaches the ornamental head in place. They contribute effectively to the decoration of important doors, especially extension doors of churches and public buildings.
96. Hand and Bevel of Doors.—Many locks and butts used at the present time are made reversible; that is, they can be used for either right- or left-hand doors. Others are not, and must therefore be specified as right hand or left hand. In this latter class are included loose-joint butts and most locks, the operation of which is different on one side than on the other. All locks with beveled fronts are not reversible, and their use should be avoided where no real need of them exists.
A reversible lock is one having a beveled latch bolt that can be turned over, or reversed, at will, to make its bevel face the opposite direction. This is usually accomplished by removing the cap of the lock and turning over the latch bolt.
Fig. 134
In order that hardware may be ordered intelligently, the hand and bevel of the door should be given where the hardware is not interchangeable, or reversible. Rules to determine the hand of doors have, therefore, been established by the manufacturers of hardware, so that the information may be founded on a uniform basis. Reference to [Fig. 135] will materially assist in the interpretation of these rules.
CUPBOARD AND CELL LOCKS
Fig. 135
1. The hand of a door is always determined from the outside.
2. The outside is the street side of an entrance door, the corridor side of a room door, and the room side of a closet door. The outside of a communicating door, from room to room, is the side from which, when the door is closed, the butts are not visible. The outside of a pair of twin doors is the space between them. This rule applies to sliding-doors as well as hinged doors.
3. If, on standing outside of a door, the butts are on the right, it is a right-hand door; if on the left, it is a left-hand door.
4. If, on standing outside, the door opens from you, or inwards, it takes a lock with regular bevel bolt; if it opens outwards, it takes a lock with reverse bevel bolt.
5. A door is beveled when its edge is not at a right angle with its surface, and in this case the front of a mortise lock must be beveled to correspond. This bevel is expressed by stating the thickness of door and the distance that one edge drops back of the other. The standard bevel is ⅛ inch in 2¼ inches, as shown in [Fig. 136].
Fig. 136
6. The bevel of a lock is a term used both with mortise and rim locks to indicate the direction in which the bevel of the latch bolt is inclined. If inclined outwards, as for doors opening inwards, it is a regular bevel bolt; if inclined inwards, as for doors opening outwards, it is a reverse bevel bolt (except as to cabinet locks, which, being commonly used on doors opening outwards, are regularly made with reverse bevel bolts, unless otherwise specified).
Mortise locks used with double doors having either rabbeted or astragal joints, must have fronts of corresponding sectional form. To avoid the extra cost of special patterns, the edges, or joints, of such doors should conform to established lock standards. The standard rabbet, or step, in the edge of doors is ½ inch, and the standard astragal joint has a ¾-inch bead.
The proper bevel of a door, if any is needed, is determined by the size of butt and the width of the door, as shown in [Fig. 137]. The inner corner of the door travels on a radius with the center at the center of the pin of the butt, and must have a clearance to swing free of the jamb casing. This may be obtained by beveling the edge of the door, or, if its edge is left square, by leaving sufficient clearance between the door and its jamb. If the door is of fair width and the butt does not need to be very wide to clear the trim, it will be found that a square edge may be used without resorting to an unduly open joint, thus permitting the use of locks with regular front; that is, not beveled.
Fig. 137