CLEANING PREPARATIONS AND METHODS

(See also Soaps, Polishes, and Household Formulas).

To Remove Stains From The Hands:

Removal of Aniline-Dye Stains from the Skin.

Pyrogallic-acid Stains On The Fingers

To Clean Very Soiled Hands.

To Remove Nitric-acid Stains.

Cleaning Gilded Articles:

To Clean Gilt Frames And Gilded Surfaces Generally.

To Clean Fire-gilt Articles.

To clean gilt articles, such as gold moldings, etc., when they have become tarnished or covered with flyspecks, etc., rub them slowly with an onion cut in half and dipped in rectified alcohol, and wash off lightly with a moist soft sponge after about 2 hours.

Cleaning Gilded And Polychromed Work On Altars.

Spot And Stain Removers:

To Remove Aniline Stains.—

I.—	Sodium nitrate	7 grains
	Diluted sulphuric acid	15 grains
	Water	1 ounce

Let the mixture stand a day or two before using. Apply to the spot with a sponge, and rinse the goods with plenty of water.

II.—An excellent medium for the removal of aniline stains, which are often very stubborn, has been found to be liquid opodeldoc. After its use the stains are said to disappear at once and entirely.

Cleansing Fluids.

I.—	Saponine	7 parts
	Water	130 parts
	Alcohol	70 parts
	Benzine	1,788 parts
	Oil mirbane	5 parts
II.—	Benzene (benzol)	89 parts
	Ascetic ether	10 parts
	Pear oil	1 part

This yields an effective grease eradicator, of an agreeable odor. {186}

III.—To Remove Stains of Sulphate of copper, or of salts of mercury, silver, or gold from the hands, etc., wash them first with a dilute solution either of ammonia, iodide, bromide, or cyanide of potassium, and then with plenty of water; if the stains are old ones they should first be rubbed with the strongest acetic acid and then treated as above.

Removal Of Picric-acid Stains.

II.—Apply a solution of
Boric acid	4 parts
Sodium benzoate	1 part
Water	100 parts

III.—Dr. Prieur, of Besançon, recommends lithium carbonate for the removal of picric-acid stains from the skin or from linen. The method of using it is simply to lay a small pinch on the stain, and moisten the latter with water. Fresh stains disappear almost instantly, and old ones in a minute or two.

To Remove Finger Marks From Books, Etc.

II.—If the foregoing fails (which it sometimes, though rarely, does), try the following: Make a hot solution of sodium hydrate in distilled water, of strength of from 3 per cent to 5 per cent, according to the age, etc., of the stain. Have prepared some bits of heavy blotting paper somewhat larger than the spot to be removed; also, a blotting pad, or several pieces of heavy blotting paper. Lay the soiled page face downward on the blotting pad, then, saturating one of the bits of blotter with the hot sodium hydrate solution, put it on the stain and go over it with a hot smoothing iron. If one application does not remove all the grease or stain, repeat the operation. Then saturate another bit of blotting paper with a 4 per cent or 5 per cent solution of hydrochloric acid in distilled water, apply it to the place, and pass the iron over it to neutralize the strong alkali. This process will instantly restore any faded writing or printing, and make the paper bright and fresh again.

Glycerine As A Detergent.

Cleaning Skins And Leather

To Clean Colored Leather.

The color is not injured in the least by the sulphuret of carbon; only those leathers on which a dressing containing starch has been used look a little lighter in color, but the better class of leathers are not so dressed. The dry gutta-percha can be redissolved in sulphuret of carbon and used over again.

To Clean Skins Used For Polishing Purposes.

The best way to clean a chamois skin is to wash and rinse it out in clean water immediately after use, but this practice is apt to be neglected so that the skin becomes saturated with dirt and grime. To clean it, first thoroughly soak in clean, soft water. Then, after soaping it and rolling it into a compact wad, beat with a small round stick—a buggy spoke, say—turning the wad over repeatedly, and keeping it well wet and soaped. This should suffice to loosen the dirt. Then rinse in clean water until the skin {187} is clean. As wringing by hand is apt to injure the chamois skin, it is advisable to use a small clothes wringer. Before using the skin again rinse it in clear water to which a little pulverized alum has been added.

Straw-hat Renovation:

To Renovate Straw Hats.

II.—Sponge the straw with a solution of

	By weight
Sodium hyposulphite	10 parts
Glycerine	5 parts
Alcohol	10 parts
Water	75 parts

Lay aside in a damp place for 24 hours and then apply

	By weight
Citric acid	2 parts
Alcohol	10 parts
Water	90 parts

Press with a moderately hot iron, after stiffening with weak gum water, if necessary.

III.—If the hat has become much darkened in tint by wear the fumes of burning sulphur may be employed. The material should be first cleaned by thoroughly sponging with an aqueous solution of potassium carbonate, followed by a similar application of water, and it is then suspended over the sulphur fumes. These are generated by placing in a metal or earthen dish, so mounted as to keep the heat from setting fire to anything beneath, some brimstone (roll sulphur), and sprinkling over it some live coals to start combustion. The operation is conducted in a deep box or barrel, the dish of burning sulphur being placed at the bottom, and the article to be bleached being suspended from a string stretched across the top. A cover not fitting so tightly as to exclude all air is placed over it, and the apparatus allowed to stand for a few hours.

Hats so treated will require to be stiffened by the application of a little gum water, and pressed on a block with a hot iron to bring them back into shape.

Waterproof Stiffening For Straw Hats.

I.—	Copal	450 parts
	Sandarac	75 parts
	Venice turpentine	40 parts
	Castor oil	5 parts
	Alcohol	800 parts
II.—	Shellac	500 parts
	Sandarac	175 parts
	Venice turpentine	50 parts
	Castor oil	15 parts
	Alcohol	2,000 parts
III.—	Shellac	750 parts
	Rosin	150 parts
	Venice turpentine	150 parts
	Castor oil	20 parts
	Alcohol	2,500 parts

How To Clean A Panama Hat.

A little glycerine added to the rinsing water entirely prevents the stiffness and brittleness acquired by some hats in drying, while a little ammonia in the washing water materially assists in the scrubbing process. Ivory, or, in fact, any good white soap, will answer as well as castile for the purpose. It is well to rinse a second time, adding the glycerine to the water used the second time. Immerse the hat completely in the rinse water, moving it about to get rid of traces of the dirty water. When the hat has been thoroughly rinsed, press out the surplus water, using a Turkish bath towel for the purpose, and let it rest on the towel when drying.

Paint, Varnish, And Enamel Removers:

To Remove Old Oil, Paint, Or Varnish Coats.

II.—Apply a mixture of 1 part oil of turpentine and 2 parts of ammonia. This is effective, even if the coatings withstand the strongest lye. The two liquids are shaken in a bottle until they mix like milk. The mixture is applied to the coating with a little oakum; after a few minutes the old paint can be wiped off.

To Clean Brushes And Vessels Of Dry Paint

Varnish And Paint Remover.

To Remove Varnish From Metal.

To Remove Water Stains From Varnished Furniture.

To Remove Paint, Varnish, Etc., From Wood.

Water glass	5 parts
Soda lye, 40° B. (27 per cent)	1 part
Ammonia water	1 part

Mix.

Removing Varnish, Etc.

To Remove Enamel And Tin Solder.

Removing Paint And Varnish From Wood.

Flour or wood pulp	385 parts
Hydrochloric acid	450 parts
Bleaching powder	160 parts
Turpentine	5 parts

This mixture is applied to the surface and left on for some time. It is then brushed off, and brings the paint away with it. It keeps moist quite long enough to be easily removed after it has acted.

Paste for Removing Old Paint or Varnish Coats.—

I.—	Sodium hydrate	5 parts
	Soluble soda glass	3 parts
	Flour paste	6 parts
	Water	4 parts
II.—	Soap	10 parts
	Potassium hydrate	7 parts
	Potassium silicate	2 parts

{189}

To Remove Old Enamel.

Ink Eradicators:

Two-solution Ink Remover.—

I.—(a)	Citric acid	1 part
	Concentrated solution of borax	2 parts
	Distilled water	16 parts

Dissolve the acid in the water, add the borax solution, and mix by agitation.

(b)	Chloride of lime	3 parts
	Water	16 parts
	Concentrated borax solution	2 part

Add the chloride of lime to the water, shake well and set aside for a week, then decant the clear liquid and to it add the borax solution.

For use, saturate the spot with solution (a), apply a blotter to take off the excess of liquid, then apply solution (b). When the stain has disappeared, apply the blotter and wet the spot with clean water; finally dry between two sheets of blotting paper.

II.—(a) Mix, in equal parts, potassium chloride, potassium hypochlorite, and oil of peppermint. (b) Sodium chloride, hydrochloric acid and water, in equal parts.

Wet the spot with (a), let dry, then brush it over lightly with (b), and rinse in clear water.

A good single mixture which will answer for most inks is made by mixing citric acid and alum in equal parts. If desired to vend in a liquid form add an equal part of water. In use, the powder is spread well over the spot and (if on cloth or woven fabrics) well rubbed in with the fingers. A few drops of water are then added, and also rubbed in. A final rinsing with water completes the process.

Ink Erasers.

II.—	Citric acid	1 part
	Water, distilled	10 parts
	Concentrated solution of borax	2 parts

Dissolve the citric acid in the water and add the borax. Apply to the paper with a delicate camel’s-hair pencil, removing any excess of water with a blotter. A mixture of oxalic, citric, and tartaric acids, in equal parts, dissolved in just enough water to give a clean solution, acts energetically on most inks.

Erasing Powder Or Pounce.

Removing Ink Stains.

II.—To remove ink spots the fabric is soaked in warm water, then it is squeezed out and spread upon a clean piece of linen. Now apply a few drops of liquid ammonia of a specific gravity of 0.891 to the spot, and dab it next with a wad of cotton which has been saturated with dilute phosphoric acid. After repeating the process several times and drying the piece in the sun, the ink spot will have disappeared without leaving the slightest trace. {190}

III.—Ink spots may be removed by the following mixture:

Oxalic acid	10 parts
Stannic chloride	2 parts
Acetic acid	5 parts
Water to make	500 parts

Mix.

IV.—The customary method of cleansing ink spots is to use oxalic acid. Thick blotting paper is soaked in a concentrated solution and dried. It is then laid immediately on the blot, and in many instances will take the latter out without leaving a trace behind. In more stubborn cases the cloth is dipped in boiling water and rubbed with crystals of oxalic acid, after which it is soaked in a weak solution of chloride of lime—say 1 ounce to a quart of water. Under such circumstances the linen should be thoroughly rinsed in several waters afterwards. Oxalic acid is undesirable for certain fabrics because it removes the color.

V.—Here is a more harmless method: Equal parts of cream of tartar and citric acid, powdered fine, and mixed together. This forms the “salts of lemon” sold by druggists. Procure a hot dinner plate, lay the part stained in the plate, and moisten with hot water; next rub in the above powder with the bowl of a spoon until the stains disappear; then rinse in clean water and dry.

To Remove Red (Aniline) Ink.

Cleaning Of Walls, Ceilings, And Wall Paper:

To Renovate Brick Walls.

Cleaning Painted Doors, Walls, Etc.

To Remove Aniline Stains From Ceilings, Etc.

Old Ceilings.

Oil Stains On Wall Paper.

To Clean Painted Walls.

Treatment Of Whitewashed Walls.

Cleaning Wall Paper.

II.—Mix 4 ounces of powdered pumice with 1 quart of flour, and with the aid of water make a stiff dough. Form the dough into rolls 2 inches in diameter and 6 inches long; sew each roll separately in a cotton cloth, then boil for 40 or 50 minutes, so as to render the mass firm. Allow to stand for several hours, remove the crust, and they are ready for use.

III.—Bread will clean paper; but unless it is properly used the job will be a very tedious one. Select a “tin” loaf at least two days old. Cut off the crust at one end, and rub down the paper, commencing at the top. Do not rub the bread backwards and forwards, but in single strokes. When the end gets dirty take a very sharp knife and pare off a thin layer; then proceed as before.

It is well to make sure that the walls are quite dry before using the bread, or it may smear the pattern. If the room is furnished it will, of course, be necessary to place cloths around the room to catch the crumbs.

IV.—A preparation for cleansing wall paper that often proves much more effectual than ordinary bread, especially when the paper is very dirty, is made by mixing ²/₃ dough and ¹/₃ plaster of Paris. This should be made a day before it is needed for use, and should be very gently baked.

If there are any grease spots they should be removed by holding a hot flatiron against a piece of blotting paper placed over them. If this fails, a little fuller’s earth or pipe clay should be made into a paste with water, and this should then be carefully plastered over the grease spots and allowed to remain till quite dry, when it will be found to have absorbed the grease.

V.—Mix together 1 pound each of rye flour and white flour into a dough, which is partially cooked and the crust removed. To this 1 ounce common salt and ¹/₂ ounce of powdered naphthaline are added, and finally 1 ounce of corn meal, and ¹/₈ ounce of burnt umber. The composition is formed into a mass, of the proper size to be grasped in the hand, and in use it should be drawn in one direction over the surface to be cleaned.

VI.—Procure a soft, flat sponge, being careful that there are no hard or gritty places in it, then get a bucket of new, clean, dry, wheat bran. Hold the sponge flat side up, and put a handful of bran on it, then quickly turn against the wall, and rub the wall gently and carefully with it; then repeat the operation. Hold a large pan or spread down a drip cloth to catch the bran as it falls, but never use the same bran twice. Still another way is to use Canton flannel in strips a foot wide and about 3 yards long. Roll a strip around a stick 1 inch thick and 10 inches long, so as to have the ends of the stick covered, with the nap of the cloth outside. As the cloth gets soiled, unroll the soiled part and roll it up with the soiled face inside.

In this way one can change places on the cloth when soiled and use the whole face of the cloth. To take out a grease spot requires care. First, take several thicknesses of brown wrapping paper and make a pad, place it against the grease spot, and hold a hot flatiron against it to draw out the grease, which will soak into the brown paper. Be careful to have enough layers of brown paper to keep the iron from scorching or discoloring the wall paper. If the first application does not take out nearly all the grease, repeat with clean brown paper or a blotting pad. Then take an ounce vial of washed sulphuric ether and a soft, fine, clean sponge and sponge the spot carefully until all the grease disappears. Do not wipe the place with the sponge and ether, but dab the sponge carefully against the place. A small quantity of ether is advised, as it is very inflammable.

Clothes And Fabric Cleaners:

Soaps For Clothing And Fabrics.

I.—	Powdered borax	30 parts
	Extract of soap bark	30 parts
	Ox gall (fresh)	120 parts
	Castile soap	450 parts

First make the soap-bark extract by boiling the crushed bark in water until it has assumed a dark color, then strain the liquid into an evaporating dish, and {192} by the aid of heat evaporate it to a solid extract; then powder and mix it with the borax and the ox gall. Melt the castile soap by adding a small quantity of water and warming, then add the other ingredients and mix well.

About 100 parts of soap bark make 20 parts of extract.

II.—	Castile soap	2 pounds
	Potassium carbonate	¹/₂ pound
	Camphor	¹/₂ ounce
	Alcohol	¹/₂ ounce
	Ammonia water	¹/₂ ounce
	Hot water, ¹/₂ pint, or sufficient.

Dissolve the potassium carbonate in the water, add the soap previously reduced to thin shavings, keep warm over a water bath, stirring occasionally, until dissolved, adding more water if necessary, and finally, when of a consistence to become semisolid on cooling, remove from the fire. When nearly ready to set, stir in the camphor, previously dissolved in the alcohol and the ammonia.

The soap will apparently be quite as efficacious without the camphor and ammonia.

If a paste is desired, a potash soap should be used instead of the castile in the foregoing formula, and a portion or all of the water omitted. Soaps made from potash remain soft, while soda soaps harden on the evaporation of the water which they contain when first made.

A liquid preparation may be obtained, of course, by the addition of sufficient water, and some more alcohol would probably improve it.

Clothes-cleaning Fluids:

I.—	Borax	1 ounce
Castile soap	1 ounce
Sodium carbonate	3 drachms
Ammonia water	5 ounces
Alcohol	4 ounces
Acetone	4 ounces
Hot water to make	4 pints

III.—	Chloroform	15 parts
Ether	15 parts
Alcohol	120 parts
Decoction of quillaia bark of 30°	4,500 parts
IV.—	Acetic ether	10 parts
Amyl acetate	10 parts
Liquid ammonia	10 parts
Dilute alcohol	70 parts

VI.—	Castile soap	4 av. ounces
Water, boiling	32 fluidounces
Dissolve and add:
Water	1 gallon
Ammonia	8 fluidounces
Ether	2 fluidounces
Alcohol	4 fluidounces

To Remove Spots From Tracing Cloth.

Removal Of Paint From Clothing.

When benzine is used the operator must be careful to apply it only in the absence of light or fire, on account of the extremely inflammable character of the vapor.

Varnish stains, when fresh, are treated in the same way, but the action of the solvent may possibly not be so complete on account of the gum rosins present.

When either paint or varnish has dried, its removal becomes more difficult. In such case soaking in strong ammonia water may answer. An emulsion, formed by shaking together 2 parts of ammonia water and 1 of spirits of turpentine, has been recommended.

To Remove Vaseline Stains From Clothing.

To Remove Grease Spots From Plush.

To Remove Iron Rust From Muslin And Linen.

Keroclean.

Kerosene.	1 ounce
Carbon tetrachloride (commercial).	3 ounces
Oil of citronella	2 drachms

Mix, and filter if necessary. If a strong odor of carbon bisulphide is detected in the carbon tetrachloride first shake with powdered charcoal and filter.

To Clean Gold And Silver Lace.

II.—To clean silver lace take alabaster in very fine powder, lay the lace upon a cloth, and with a soft brush take up some of the powder, and rub both sides with it till it becomes bright and clean, afterwards polish with another brush until all remnants of the powder are removed, and it exhibits a lustrous surface.

III.—Silver laces are put in curdled milk for 24 hours. A piece of Venetian soap, or any other good soap, is scraped and stirred into 2 quarts of rain water. To this a quantity of honey and fresh ox gall is added, and the whole is stirred for some time. If it becomes too thick, more water is added. This mass is allowed to stand for half a day, and the wet laces are painted with it. Wrap a wet cloth around the roller of a mangle, wind the laces over this, put another wet cloth on top, and press, wetting and repeating the application several times. Next, dip the laces in a clear solution of equal parts of sugar and gum arabic, pass them again through the mangle, between two clean pieces of cloth, and hang them up to dry thoroughly, attaching a weight to the lower end.

IV.—Soak gold laces over night in cheap white wine and then proceed as with silver laces. If the gold is worn off, put 771 grains of shellac, 31 grains of dragon’s blood, 31 grains of turmeric in strong alcohol and pour off the ruby-colored fluid. Dip a fine hair pencil in this, paint the pieces to be renewed, and hold a hot flatiron a few inches above them, so that only the laces receive the heat.

V.—Silver embroideries may also be cleaned by dusting them with Vienna lime, and brushing off with a velvet brush.

For gildings the stuff is dipped in a solution of gold chloride, and this is reduced by means of hydrogen in another vessel.

For silvering, one of the following two processes may be employed: (a) Painting with a solution of 1 part of phosphorus in 15 parts bisulphide of carbon and dipping in a solution of nitrate of silver; (b) dipping for 2 hours in a solution of nitrate of silver, mixed with ammonia, then exposing to a current of pure hydrogen.

To Remove Silver Stains From White Fabrics.

Rust-spot Remover.

To Clean Quilts.

It is very essential to beat the drying quilts frequently with a smooth stick or board. This will have the effect of swelling up the wadding, and preventing it from felting. Furthermore, the quilts should be repeatedly turned during the drying from right to left and also from top to bottom. In this manner streaks are avoided.

Removal Of Peruvian-balsam Stains.

Solution For Removing Nitrate Of Silver Spots.—

Bichloride of mercury	5 parts
Ammonium chloride	5 parts
Distilled water	40 parts

Apply the mixture to the spots with a cloth, then rub. This removes, almost instantaneously, even old stains on linen, cotton, or wool. Stains on the skin thus treated become whitish yellow and soon disappear.

Cleaning Tracings.

The glaze may be restored to tracing cloth after using the eraser by rubbing the roughened surface with a piece of hard wax from an old phonograph cylinder. The surface thus produced is superior to that of the original glaze, as it is absolutely oil- and water-proof.

Rags For Cleaning And Polishing.

Cleaning Powder.—

Bole	500 parts
Magnesium carbonate	50 parts

Mix and make into a paste with a small quantity of benzine or water; apply to stains made by fats or oils on the clothing and when dry remove with a brush.

Cleaning Painted And Varnished Surfaces:

Cleaning And Preserving Polished Woodwork.

Oak as a general thing is not polished, but has a matt surface which can be washed with water and soap. First all stains and spots should be gone over with a sponge or a soft brush and very weak ammonia water. The carved work should be freed of dust, etc., by the use of a stiff brush, and finally washed with dilute ammonia water. When dry it should be gone over very thinly and evenly with brunoline applied with a soft pencil. If it is desired to give an especially handsome finish, after the surface is entirely dry, give it a preliminary coat of brunoline and follow this on the day after with a second. Brunoline may be purchased of any dealer in paints. To make it, put 70 parts of linseed oil in a very capacious vessel (on account of the foam that ensues) and add to it 20 parts of powdered litharge, 20 parts of powdered minium, and 10 parts of lead acetate, also powdered. Boil until the oil is completely oxidized, stirring constantly. When completely oxidized the oil is no longer red, but is of a dark brown color. When it acquires {195} this color, remove from the fire, and add 160 parts of turpentine oil, and stir well. This brunoline serves splendidly for polishing furniture or other polished wood.

To Clean Lacquered Goods.

Polish For Varnished Work.

To Clean Paintings.

Removing And Preventing Match Marks.

Glove Cleaners:

Powder For Cleaning Gloves.—

I.—	White bole or pipe clay	60.0 parts
	Orris root (powdered)	30.0 parts
	Powdered grain soap	7.5 parts
	Powdered borax	15.0 parts
	Ammonium chloride	2.5 parts

Mix the above ingredients. Moisten the gloves with a damp cloth, rub on the powder, and brush off after drying.

II.—Four pounds powdered pipe clay, 2 pounds powdered white soap, 1 ounce lemon oil, thoroughly rubbed together. To use, make powder into a thin cream with water and rub on the gloves while on the hands. This is a cheaply produced compound, and does its work effectually.

Soaps And Pastes For Cleaning Gloves.—

I.—	Soft soap.	1 ounce
	Water.	4 ounces
	Oil of lemon	¹/₂ drachm
	Precipitated chalk, a sufficient quantity.

Dissolve the soap in the water, add the oil, and make into a stiff paste with a sufficient quantity of chalk.

II.—	White hard soap.	1 part
	Talcum.	1 part
	Water	4 parts

Shave the soap into ribbons, dissolve in the water by the aid of heat, and incorporate the talcum.

III.—	Curd soap	1 av. ounce
	Water	4 fluidounces
	Oil of lemon.	¹/₂ fluidrachm
	French chalk, a sufficient quantity.

Shred the soap and melt it in the water by heat, add the oil of lemon, and make into a stiff paste with French chalk.

IV.—	White castile soap, old and dry	15 parts
	Water	15 parts
	Solution of chlorinated soda	16 parts
	Ammonia water	1 part

Cut or shave up the soap, add the water, and heat on the water bath to a smooth paste. Remove, let cool, and add the other ingredients and mix thoroughly.

V.—	Castile soap, white, old, and dry	100 parts
	Water	75 parts
	Tincture of quillaia	10 parts
	Ether, sulphuric	10 parts
	Ammonia water, FF	5 parts
	Benzine, deodorized	75 parts

Melt the soap, previously finely shaved, in the water, bring to a boil and remove from the fire. Let cool down, then add the other ingredients, incorporating them thoroughly. This should be put up in collapsible tubes or tightly closed metallic boxes. This is also useful for clothing.

Liquid Cloth And Glove Cleaner.—

Gasoline.	1 gallon
Chloroform.	1 ounce
Carbon disulphide	1 ounce
Essential oil almond	5 drops
Oil bergamot	1 drachm
Oil cloves	5 drops

Mix. To be applied with a sponge or soft cloth.

Stone Cleaning:

Cleaning And Polishing Marble.

If this does not remove stains, a weak solution of oxalic acid should be applied with a sponge or rag, washing quickly and thoroughly with water to minimize injury to the surface.

Rubbing well after this with chalk moistened with water will, in a measure, restore the luster. Another method of finishing is to apply a solution of white wax in turpentine (about 1 in 10), rubbing thoroughly with a piece of flannel or soft leather.

If the marble has been much exposed, so that its luster has been seriously impaired, it may be necessary to repolish it in a more thorough manner. This may be accomplished by rubbing it first with sand, beginning with a moderately coarse-grained article and changing this twice for finer kinds, after which tripoli or pumice is used. The final polish is given by the so-called putty powder. A plate of iron is generally used in applying the coarse sand; with the fine sand a leaden plate is used; and the pumice is employed in the form of a smooth-surfaced piece of convenient size. For the final polishing coarse linen or bagging is used, wedged tightly into an iron planing tool. During all these applications water is allowed to trickle over the face of the stone.

The putty powder referred to is binoxide of tin, obtained by treating metallic tin with nitric acid, which converts the metal into hydrated metastannic acid. This, when heated, becomes anhydrous. In this condition it is known as putty powder. In practice putty powder is mixed with alum, sulphur, and other substances, the mixture used being dependent upon the nature of the stone to be polished.

According to Warwick, colored marble should not be treated with soap and water, but only with the solution of beeswax above mentioned.

II.—Take 2 parts of sodium bicarbonate, 1 part of powdered pumice stone, and 1 part of finely pulverized chalk. Pass through a fine sieve to screen out all particles capable of scratching the marble, and add sufficient water to form a pasty mass. Rub the marble with it vigorously, and end the cleaning with soap and water.

III.—	Ox gall	1 part
	Saturated solution of sodium carbonate	4 parts
	Oil of turpentine	1 part
	Pipe clay enough to form a paste.
IV.—	Sodium carbonate	2 ounces
	Chlorinated lime.	1 ounce
	Water	14 ounces

Mix well and apply the magma to the marble with a cloth, rubbing well in, and finally rubbing dry. It may be necessary to repeat this operation.

V.—Wash the surface with a mixture of finely powdered pumice stone and vinegar, and leave it for several hours; then brush it hard and wash it clean. When dry, rub with whiting and wash leather.

VI.—	Soft soap.	4 parts
	Whiting	4 parts
	Sodium bicarbonate	1 part
	Copper sulphate	2 parts

Mix thoroughly and rub over the marble with a piece of flannel, and leave it on for 24 hours, then wash it off with clean water, and polish the marble with a piece of flannel or an old piece of felt.

VII.—A strong solution of oxalic acid effectually takes out ink stains. In handling it the poisonous nature of this acid should not be forgotten.

VIII.—Iron mold or ink spots may be taken out in the following manner: Take ¹/₂ ounce of butter of antimony and 1 ounce of oxalic acid and dissolve them in 1 pint of rain water; add enough flour to bring the mixture to a proper consistency. Lay it evenly on the stained part with a brush, and, after it has remained for a few days, wash it off and repeat the process if the stain is not wholly removed.

IX.—To remove oil stains apply common clay saturated with benzine. If the grease has remained in long the polish will be injured, but the stain will be removed.

X.—The following method for removing rust from iron depends upon the solubility of the sulphide of iron in a solution of cyanide of potassium. Clay is made into a thin paste with ammonium sulphide, and the rust spot smeared with the mixture, care being taken that the spot is only just covered. After ten minutes this paste is washed off and replaced by one consisting of white bole mixed with a solution of potassium cyanide (1 to 4), which is in its turn {197} washed off after about 2 ¹/₂ hours. Should a reddish spot remain after washing off the first paste, a second layer may be applied for about 5 minutes.

XI.—	Soft soap	4 ounces
	Whiting	4 ounces
	Sodium carbonate	1 ounce
	Water, a sufficient quantity.

Make into a thin paste, apply on the soiled surface, and wash off after 24 hours.

XII.—In a spacious tub place a tall vessel upside down. On this set the article to be cleaned so that it will not stand in the water, which would loosen the cemented parts. Into this tub pour a few inches of cold water—hot water renders marble dull—take a soft brush and a piece of Venetian soap, dip the former in the water and rub on the latter carefully, brushing off the article from top to bottom. When in this manner dust and dirt have been dissolved, wash off all soap particles by means of a watering pot and cold water, dab the object with a clean sponge, which absorbs the moisture, place it upon a cloth and carefully dry with a very clean, soft cloth, rubbing gently. This treatment will restore the former gloss to the marble.

XIII.—Mix and shake thoroughly in a bottle equal quantities of sulphuric acid and lemon juice. Moisten the spots and rub them lightly with a linen cloth and they will disappear.

XIV.—Ink spots are treated with acid oxalate of potassium; blood stains by brushing with alabaster dust and distilled water, then bleaching with chlorine solution. Alizarine ink and aniline ink spots can be moderated by laying on rags saturated with Javelle water, chlorine water, or chloride of lime paste. Old oil stains can only be effaced by placing the whole piece of marble for hours in benzine. Fresh oil or grease spots are obliterated by repeated applications of a little damp, white clay and subsequent brushing with soap water or weak soda solution. For many other spots an application of benzine and magnesia is useful.

XV.—Marble slabs keep well and do not lose their fresh color if they are cleaned with hot water only, without the addition of soap, which is injurious to the color. Care must be taken that no liquid dries on the marble. If spots of wine, coffee, beer, etc., have already appeared, they are cleaned with diluted spirit of sal ammoniac, highly diluted oxalic acid, Javelle water, ox gall, or, take a quantity of newly slaked lime, mix it with water into a paste-like consistency, apply the paste uniformly on the spot with a brush, and leave the coating alone for two to three days before it is washed off. If the spots are not removed by a single application, repeat the latter. In using Javelle water 1 or 2 drops should be carefully poured on each spot, rinsing off with water.

To Remove Grease Spots From Marble.

Preparation For Cleaning Marble, Furniture, And Metals, Especially Copper.

Removing Oil Stains From Marble.

Cleaning Terra Cotta.

Renovation Of Polished And Varnished Surfaces Of Wood, Stone, Etc.

The addition of chloride of lime tends to keep the paste moist, thus allowing the ready removal of the paste without damaging the varnish or polish, while the turpentine serves as a disinfectant and renders the odor less disagreeable during the operation.

The preparation is rapid in its action, and does not affect the varnished or polished surfaces of wood or marble. While energetic in its cleansing action on brass and other metallic objects, it is attended with no corrosive effect.

Nitrate Of Silver Spots.

To Remove Oil-paint Spots From Sandstones.

Rust Removers:

To Remove Rust from Iron or Steel Utensils.—

I.—Apply the following solution by means of a brush, after having removed any grease by rubbing with a clean, dry cloth: 100 parts of stannic chloride are dissolved in 1,000 parts of water; this solution is added to one containing 2 parts tartaric acid dissolved in 1,000 parts of water, and finally 20 cubic centimeters indigo solution, diluted with 2,000 parts of water, are added. After allowing the solution to act upon the stain for a few seconds, it is rubbed clean, first with a moist cloth, then with a dry cloth; to restore the polish use is made of silver sand and jewelers’ rouge.

II.—When the rust is recent it is removed by rubbing the metal with a cork charged with oil. In this manner a perfect polish is obtained. To take off old rust, mix equal parts of fine tripoli and flowers of sulphur, mingling this mixture with olive oil, so as to form a paste. Rub the iron with this preparation by means of a skin.

III.—The rusty piece is connected with a piece of zinc and placed in water containing a little sulphuric acid. After the articles have been in the liquid for several days or a week, the rust will have completely disappeared. The length of time will depend upon the depth to which the rust has penetrated. A little sulphuric acid may be added from time to time, but the chief point is that the zinc always has good electric contact with the iron. To insure this an iron wire may be firmly wound around the iron object and connected with the zinc. The iron is not attacked in the least, as long as the zinc is kept in good electric contact with it. When the articles are taken from the liquid they assume a dark gray or black color and are then washed and oiled.

IV.—The rust on iron and steel objects, especially large pieces, is readily removed by rubbing the pieces with oil of tartar, or with very fine emery and a little oil, or by putting powdered alum in strong vinegar and rubbing with this alumed vinegar.

V.—Take cyanide of calcium, 25 parts; white soap, powdered, 25 parts; Spanish white, 50 parts; and water, 200 parts. Triturate all well and rub the piece with this paste. The effect will be quicker if before using this paste the rusty object has been soaked for 5 to 10 minutes in a solution of cyanide of potassium in the ratio of 1 part of cyanide to 2 parts of water.

VI.—To remove rust from polished steel cyanide of potassium is excellent. If possible, soak the instrument to be cleaned in a solution of cyanide of potassium in the proportion of 1 ounce of cyanide to 4 ounces of water. Allow this to act till all loose rust is removed, and then polish with cyanide soap. The latter is made as follows: Potassium cyanide, precipitated chalk, white castile soap. Make a saturated solution of the cyanide and add chalk sufficient to make a creamy paste. Add the soap cut in fine shavings and thoroughly incorporate in a mortar. When the mixture is stiff cease to add the soap. It should be remembered that potassium cyanide is a virulent poison.

VII.—Apply turpentine or kerosene oil, and after letting it stand over night, clean with finest emery cloth.

VIII.—To free articles of iron and steel from rust and imbedded grains of sand the articles are treated with fluorhydric acid (about 2 per cent) 1 to 2 hours, whereby the impurities but not the metal are dissolved. This is followed by a washing with lime milk, to neutralize any fluorhydric acid remaining. {199}

To Remove Rust From Nickel.

Removal Of Rust.

To Remove Rust From Instruments.

II.—Make a solution of 1 part of kerosene in 200 parts of benzine or carbon tetrachloride, and dip the instruments, which have been dried by leaving them in heated air, in this, moving their parts, if movable, as in forceps and scissors, about under the liquid, so that it may enter all the crevices. Next lay the instruments on a plate in a dry room, so that the benzine can evaporate. Needles are simply thrown in the paraffine solution, and taken out with tongs or tweezers, after which they are allowed to dry on a plate.

III.—Pour olive oil on the rust spots and leave for several days; then rub with emery or tripoli, without wiping off the oil as far as possible, or always bringing it back on the spot. Afterwards remove the emery and the oil with a rag, rub again with emery soaked with vinegar, and finally with fine plumbago on a piece of chamois skin.

To Preserve Steel From Rust.

Metal Cleaning:

Cleaning And Preserving Medals, Coins, And Small Iron Articles.

Instead of potassium cyanide alone, a mixture of that and potassium carbonate may be used. After treatment in this way, delicate objects of silver become less brittle. Another way is to put the article in molten sodium carbonate and remove the silver carbonate thus formed, by acetic acid of 50 per cent strength. This process produces the finest possible polish.

The potassium-cyanide process may be used with all small iron objects. For larger ones molten potassium rhodanide is recommended. This converts the iron oxide into iron sulphide that is easily washed off and leaves the surface of a fine black color.

Old coins may be cleansed by first immersing them in strong nitric acid and then washing them in clean water. Wipe them dry before putting away.

To Clean Old Medals.

Steel Cleaner.

Restoring Tarnished Gold.—

Sodium bicarbonate	20 ounces
Chlorinated lime	1 ounce
Common salt	1 ounce
Water	16 ounces

Mix well and apply with a soft brush.

A very small quantity of the solution is sufficient, and it may be used either cold or lukewarm. Plain articles may be brightened by putting a drop or two of the liquid upon them and lightly brushing the surface with fine tissue paper. {200}

Cleaning Copper.—

I.—Use Armenian bole mixed into a paste with oleic acid.

II.—	Rotten stone	1 part
	Iron subcarbonate	3 parts
	Lard oil, a sufficient quantity.
III.—	Iron oxide	10 parts
	Pumice stone	32 parts
	Oleic acid, a sufficient quantity.
IV.—	Soap, cut fine	16 parts
	Precipitated chalk	2 parts
	Jewelers’ rouge	1 part
	Cream of tartar	1 part
	Magnesium carbonate	1 part
	Water, a sufficient quantity.

Dissolve the soap in the smallest quantity of water that will effect solution over a water bath. Add the other ingredients to the solution while still hot, stirring constantly.

To Remove Hard Grease, Paint, Etc., From Machinery.

Solutions For Cleaning Metals.—

I.—	Water	20 parts
	Alum	2 parts
	Tripoli	2 parts
	Nitric acid	1 part
II.—	Water	40 parts
	Oxalic acid	2 parts
	Tripoli	7 parts

To Cleanse Nickel.

II.—	Stearine oil	1 part
	Ammonia water	25 parts
	Benzine	50 parts
	Alcohol	75 parts

Rub up the stearine with the ammonia, add the benzine and then the alcohol, and agitate until homogeneous. Put in wide-mouthed vessels and close carefully.

To Clean Petroleum Lamp Burners.

Gold-ware Cleaner.—

Acetic acid	2 parts
Sulphuric acid	2 parts
Oxalic acid	1 part
Jewelers’ rouge	2 parts
Distilled water	200 parts

Mix the acids and water and stir in the rouge, after first rubbing it up with a portion of the liquid. With a clean cloth, wet with this mixture, go well over the article. Rinse off with hot water and dry.

Silverware Cleaner.

Silver-coin Cleaner.

Cleaning Silver-plated Ware.

Cream of tartar	2 parts
Levigated chalk	2 parts
Alum	1 part

Powder the alum and rub up with the other ingredients, and cork tightly. When required for use wet sufficient of the powder and with soft linen rags rub the article, being careful not to use much pressure, as otherwise the thin layer of plating may be cut through. Rinse in hot suds, and afterwards in clear water, and dry in sawdust. When badly blackened with silver sulphide, if small, the article may be dipped for an instant in hydrochloric acid and immediately rinsed in running water. Larger articles may be treated as coins are—immersed for 2 or 3 minutes in a 10 per cent aqueous solution of sulphuric acid, or the surface may be rapidly wiped {201} with a swab carrying nitric acid and instantly rinsed in running water.

Cleaning Gilt Bronze Ware.

Nitric acid	10 parts
Aluminum sulphate	1 part
Water	40 parts

Mix. Rinse in running water.

Britannia Metal Cleaner.

To Remove Ink Stains On Silver.

Removing Egg Stains.

To Clean Silver Ornaments.

Solvent For Iron Rust.

Professor Weber proposed a diluted alkali, and it has been found that after employing this remedy the dirt layer is loosened and the green platina reappears. Potash has been found to be an efficacious remedy, even in the case of statues that had apparently turned completely black.

To Clean Polished Parts Of Machines.

To Clean Articles Of Nickel.

How To Renovate Bronzes.

Sodium carbonate	7 parts
Spanish whiting	15 parts
Alcohol, 85 per cent	50 parts
Water	125 parts

Go over every part carefully, using a brush to get into the minute crevices. When this dries on, brush off with a fine linen cloth or a supple chamois skin.

Or the following plan may be used: Remove grease, etc., as directed above, dry and go over the spots where the gilt surface is discolored with a brush dipped in a solution of two parts of alum in 250 parts of water and 65 parts of nitric acid. As soon as the gilding reappears or the {202} surface becomes bright, wash off, and dry in the direct sunlight.

Still another cleaner is made of nitric acid, 30 parts; aluminum sulphate, 4 parts; distilled or rain water, 125 parts. Clean of grease, etc., as above, and apply the solution with a camel’s-hair pencil. Rinse off and dry in sawdust. Finally, some articles are best cleaned by immersing in hot soap suds and rubbing with a soft brush. Rinse in clear, hot water, using a soft brush to get the residual suds out of crevices. Let dry, then finish by rubbing the gilt spots or places with a soft, linen rag, or a bit of chamois.

There are some bronzes gilt with imitation gold and varnished. Where the work is well done and the gilding has not been on too long, they will deceive even the practiced eye. The deception, however, may easily be detected by touching a spot on the gilt surface with a glass rod dipped in a solution of corrosive sublimate. If the gilding is true no discoloration will occur, but if false a brown spot will be produced.

To Clean A Gas Stove.

Cleaning Copper Sinks.

Treatment Of Cast-iron Grave Crosses.

Cleaning Inferior Gold Articles.

To Clean Bronze.

How To Clean Brass And Steel.

The best treatment for wrought steel is to wash it very clean with a stiff brush {203} and ammonia soapsuds, rinse well, dry by heat, oil plentifully with sweet oil, and dust thickly with powdered quicklime. Let the lime stay on 2 days, then brush it off with a clean, very stiff brush. Polish with a softer brush, and rub with cloths until the luster comes out. By leaving the lime on, iron and steel may be kept from rust almost indefinitely.

Before wetting any sort of bric-a-brac, and especially bronzes, remove all the dust possible. After dusting, wash well in strong white soapsuds and ammonia, rinse clean, polish with just a suspicion of oil and rotten stone, and rub off afterwards every trace of the oil. Never let acid touch a bronze surface, unless to eat and pit it for antique effects.

Composition For Cleaning Copper, Nickel, And Other Metals.

Putz Pomade.

II.—	Oxalic acid	1 part
	Peroxide of iron (jewelers’ rouge)	15 parts
	Rotten stone	20 parts
	Palm oil	60 parts
	Petrolatum	5 parts

Pulverize the acid and the rotten stone and mix thoroughly with the rouge. Sift to remove all grit, then make into a paste with the oil and petrolatum. A little nitro-benzol may be added to scent the mixture.

III.—	Oleine	40 parts
	Ceresine	5 parts
	Tripoli	40 parts
	Light mineral oil (0.870)	20 parts

Melt the oleine, ceresine, and mineral oil together, and stir in the tripoli; next, grind evenly in a paint mill.

To Clean Gummed Parts Of Machinery.

To Remove Silver Plating.

II.—Stripping silvered articles of the silvering may be accomplished by the following mixture: Sulphuric acid, 60° B., 3 parts; nitric acid, 40° B., 1 part; heat the mixture to about 166° F., and immerse the articles by means of a copper wire. In a few seconds the acid mixture will have done the work. A thorough rinsing off is, of course, necessary.

To Clean Zinc Articles.

To Remove Rust From Nickel.

Compound For Cleaning Brass.

To Clean Gilt Objects.

II.—Boil common alum in soft, pure water, and immerse the article in the solution, or rub the spot with it, and dry with sawdust.

III.—For cleaning picture frames, {204} moldings, and, in fact, all kinds of gilded work, the best medium is liquor potassæ, diluted with about 5 volumes of water. Dilute alcohol is also excellent. Methylated wood spirit, if the odor is not objectionable, answers admirably.

To Scale Cast Iron.

Cleaning Funnels And Measures.

To Clean Aluminum.

II.—Wash the aluminum with coal-oil, gasoline or benzine, then put it in a concentrated solution of caustic potash, and after washing it with plenty of water, dip it in the bath composed of ²/₃ nitric acid and ¹/₃ water. Next, subject it to a bath of concentrated nitric acid, and finally to a mixture of rum and olive oil. To render aluminum capable of being worked like pure copper, ²/₃ of oil of turpentine and ¹/₃ stearic acid are used. For polishing by hand, take a solution of 30 parts of borax and 1,000 parts of water, to which a few drops of spirits of ammonia have been added.

How To Clean Tarnished Silver.

II.—An efficacious preparation is obtained by mixing beech-wood ashes, 2 parts; Venetian soap, ⁴/₁₀₀ part; cooking salt, 2 parts; rain water, 8 parts. Brush the silver with this lye, using a somewhat stiff brush.

III.—A solution of crystallized potassium permanganate has been recommended.

IV.—A grayish violet film which silverware acquires from perspiration, can be readily removed by means of ammonia.

V.—To remove spots from silver lay it for 4 hours in soapmakers’ lye, then throw on fine powdered gypsum, moisten the latter with vinegar to cause it to adhere, dry near the fire, and wipe off. Next rub the spot with dry bran. This not only causes it to disappear, but gives extraordinary gloss to the silver.

VI.—Cleaning with the usual fine powders is attended with some difficulty and inconvenience. An excellent result is obtained without injury to the silver by employing a saturated solution of hyposulphite of soda, which is put on with a brush or rag. The article is then washed with plenty of water.

VII.—Never use soap on silverware, as it dulls the luster, giving the article more the appearance of pewter than silver. When it wants cleaning, rub it with a piece of soft leather and prepared chalk, made into a paste with pure water, entirely free from grit.

To Clean Dull Gold.

II.—	Bicarbonate of soda.	31 parts
	Chloride of lime	15.5 parts
	Cooking salt	15 parts
	Water	240 parts

Grind the chloride of lime with a little water to a thin paste, in a porcelain vessel, and add the remaining chemicals. Wash the objects with the aid of a soft brush with the solution, rinse several times in water, and dry in fine sawdust. {205}

Cleaning Bronze Objects.

Cleaning Gilded Bronzes.

II.—After removing the grease spots, let dry and pass over all the damaged parts a pencil dipped in the following mixture: Alum, 2 parts; nitric acid, 65; water, 250 parts. When the gilding becomes bright, wipe, and dry in the sun or near a fire.

III.—Wash in hot water containing a little soda, dry, and pass over the gilding a pencil soaked in a liquid made of 30 parts nitric acid, 4 parts of aluminum phosphate, and 125 parts of pure water. Dry in sawdust.

IV.—Immerse the objects in boiling soap water, and facilitate the action of the soap by rubbing with a soft brush; put the objects in hot water, brush them carefully, and let them dry in the air; when they are quite dry rub the shining parts only with an old linen cloth or a soft leather, without touching the others.

Stripping Gilt Articles.

To Clean Tarnished Zinc.

Cleaning Pewter Articles.

To Clean Files.

Scale Pan Cleaner.

Tarnish On Electro-plate Goods.

Oil-, Grease-, Paint-spot Eradicators:

Grease- and Paint-spot Eradicators.—

I.—	Benzol	500 parts
	Benzine	500 parts
	Soap, best white, shaved	5 parts
	Water, warm, sufficient.

{206}

Dissolve the soap in the warm water, using from 50 to 60 parts. Mix the benzol and benzine, and add the soap solution, a little at a time, shaking up well after each addition. If the mixture is slow in emulsifying, add at one time from 50 to 100 parts of warm water, and shake violently. Set the emulsion aside for a few days, or until it separates, then decant the superfluous water, and pour the residual pasty mass, after stirring it up well, into suitable boxes.

II.—	Soap spirit	100 parts
	Ammonia solution, 10 per cent	25 parts
	Acetic ether	15 parts
III.—	Extract of quillaia	1 part
	Borax	1 part
	Ox gall, fresh	6 parts
	Tallow soap	15 parts

Triturate the quillaia and borax together, incorporate the ox gall, and, finally, add the tallow soap and mix thoroughly by kneading. The product is a plastic mass, which may be rolled into sticks or put up into boxes.

Removing Oil Spots From Leather.

To Clean Linoleum.

To Remove Putty, Grease, Etc., From Plate Glass.

Removing Spots From Furniture.

To Remove Spots From Drawings, Etc.

Watchmakers’ And Jewelers’ Cleaning Preparations:

To Clean The Tops Of Clocks In Repairing.

To Clean Watch Chains.

Cleaning Brass Mountings On Clock Cases, Etc.

Gilt Zinc Clocks.

To Clean Gummed Up Springs.

To Clean Soldered Watch Cases.

A Simple Way To Clean A Clock.

To Restore The Color Of A Gold Or Gilt Dial.

A Bath For Cleaning Clocks.

If the clock is very dirty or much oxidized, immerse the pieces in the bath while warm, and as long as necessary. Take them out with a skimmer or strainer, and pour over them some benzine, letting the liquid fall into an empty vessel. This being decanted and bottled can be used indefinitely for rinsing.

If the bath has too much alkali or is used when too hot, it may affect the polish and render it dull. This may be obviated by trying different strengths of the alkali. Pieces of blued steel are not injured by the alkali, even when pure.

To Remove A Figure Or Name From A Dial.

Cleaning Pearls.

I.—The best process is said to be to put the pearls into a bag with wheat bran and to heat the bag over a coal fire, with constant motion.

II.—Another method is to bring 8 parts each of well-calcined, finely powdered lime and wood charcoal, which has been strained through a gauze sieve, to a boil with 500 parts of pure rain water, suspend the pearls over the steam of the boiling water until they are warmed through, and then boil them in the liquid for 5 minutes, turning frequently. Let them cool in the liquid, take them out, and wash off well with clean water.

III.—Place the pearls in a piece of fine linen, throw salt on them, and tie them up. Next rinse the tied-up pearls in lukewarm water until all the salt has been extracted, and dry them at an ordinary temperature.

IV.—The pearls may also be boiled about ¹/₄ hour in cow’s milk into which a little cheese or soap has been scraped; take them out, rinse off in fresh water, and dry them with a clean, white cloth.

V.—Another method is to have the pearls, strung on a silk thread or wrapped up in thin gauze, mixed in a loaf of bread of barley flour and to have the loaf baked well in an oven, but not too brown. When cool remove the pearls.

VI.—Hang the pearls for a couple of minutes in hot, strong, wine vinegar or highly diluted sulphuric acid, remove, and rinse them in water. Do not leave them too long in the acid, otherwise they will be injured by it.

Glass Cleaning:

Cleaning Preparation For Glass With Metal Decorations.

Paste For Cleaning Glass.—

Prepared chalk	6 pounds
Powdered French chalk	1 ¹/₂ pounds
Phosphate calcium	2 ¹/₄ pounds
Quillaia bark	2 ¹/₄ pounds
Carbonate ammonia	18 ounces
Rose pink	6 ounces

Mix the ingredients, in fine powder, and sift through muslin. Then mix with soft water to the consistency of cream, and apply to the glass by means of a soft rag or sponge; allow it to dry on, wipe off with a cloth, and polish with chamois.

Cleaning Optical Lenses.

To Remove Glue From Glass.

Cleaning Window Panes.

To Clean Store Windows.

Cleaning Lamp Globes.

To Clean Mirrors.

To Clean Milk Glass.

To Remove Oil-paint Spots From Glass.

Removing Silver Stains.

Mercuric chloride	1 part
Ammonia muriate	1 part
Water	8 parts

The compound is poisonous.

Miscellaneous Cleaning Methods And Processes:

Universal Cleaner.—

Green soap	20 to 25 parts
Boiling water	750 parts
Liquid ammonia, caustic	30 to 40 parts
Acetic ether	20 to 30 parts

Mix.

To Clean Playing Cards.

To Remove Vegetable Growth From Buildings.

Solid Cleansing Compound.

I.—	Cocoanut-oil soap.	2 av. ounces
	Ammonia water	3 fluidounces
	Solution of potassium	1 ¹/₂ fluidounces
	Water enough to make	12 fluidounces

Dissolve the soap with the aid of heat in 4 fluidounces of water, add the ammonia and potassa and the remainder of the water.

If the benzine is added in small portions, and thoroughly agitated, 2 ¹/₂ fluidounces of the above will be found sufficient to solidify 32 fluidounces of benzine. {210}

II.—	Castile soap, white	3 ¹/₂ av. ounces
	Water, boiling	3 ¹/₂ fluidounces
	Water of ammonia	5 fluidrachms
	Benzine enough to make	16 fluidounces

Dissolve the soap in the water, and when cold, add the other ingredients.

To Clean Oily Bottles.

Cork Cleaner.

To Clean Sponges.

CLEARING BATHS: See Photography.

CLICHÉ METALS: See Alloys.

CLOCK-DIAL LETTERING: See Watchmakers’ Formulas.

CLOCK-HAND COLORING: See Metals.

CLOCK OIL: See Oil.

CLOCK REPAIRING: See Watchmaking.

CLOCKMAKERS’ CLEANING PROCESSES: See Cleaning Preparations and Methods.

CLOTH TO IRON, GLUEING: See Adhesives.

CLOTHES CLEANERS: See Cleaning Preparations and Methods; also, Household Formulas.

CLOTHS FOR POLISHING: See Polishes.

CLOTH, WATERPROOFING: See Waterproofing.

CLOTHING, CARE OF: See Household Formulas.

COACH VARNISH: See Varnishes.

COALS, TO EAT BURNING: See Pyrotechnics.

COAL OIL: See Oil.

COBALTIZING: See Plating.

COCOAS: See Beverages.

COCOA CORDIAL: See Wines and Liquors.

COCOANUT CAKE: See Household Formulas and Recipes.

COCHINEAL INSECT REMEDY: See Insecticides.

COD-LIVER OIL AND ITS EMULSION: See Oil, Cod-Liver.