COSMETICS

Cold Cream.

I.—Oil of almonds425 parts
Lanolin185 parts
White wax 62 parts
Spermaceti 62 parts
Borax  4.5 parts
Rose water300 part

Melt together the first four ingredients, then incorporate the solution of borax in the rose water.

II.—Tragacanth  125 parts
Boric acid  100 parts
Glycerine  140 parts
Expressed oil of almonds   50 parts
Glyconine   50 parts
Oil of lavender    0.5 parts
Water enough to make1,000 parts

Mix the tragacanth and the boric acid with the glycerine; add the almond oil, lavender oil, and egg glycerite, which have been previously well incorporated, and, lastly, add the water in divided portions until a clear jelly of the desired consistency is obtained.

III.—Oil of almonds26 ounces
Castor oil (odorless) 6 ounces
Lard (benzoated) 8 ounces
White wax 8 ounces
Rose water (in winter less, in summer more, than quantity named)12 ounces
Orange-flower water 8 ounces
Oil of rose15 minims
Extract of jasmine 6 drachms
Extract of cassia 4 drachms
Borax 2 ounces
Glycerine 4 ounces

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Melt the oil of sweet almonds, wax, and lard together, and stir in the castor oil; make a solution of the borax in the glycerine and rose and orange-flower waters; add this solution, a little at a time, to the melted fat, stirring constantly to insure thorough incorporation; finally add the oil of rose dissolved in the extracts, and beat the ointment until cold.

IV.—Spermaceti (pure), 1/4 ounce; white wax (pure), 1/4 ounce; almond oil, 1/4 pound; butter of cocoa, 1/4 pound; lanolin, 2 ounces.

Melt and stir in 1 drachm of balsam of Peru. After settling, pour off the clear portion and add 2 fluidrachms of orange-flower water and stir briskly until it concretes.

Camphorated Cold Cream.—
Oil of sweet almonds 8 fluidounces
White wax 1 ounce
Spermaceti 1 ounce
Camphor 1 ounce
Rose water 5 fluidounces
Borax (in fine powder) 4 drachms
Oil of rose10 drops

Melt the wax and spermaceti, add the oil of sweet almonds, in which the camphor has been dissolved with very gentle heat; then gradually add the rose water, in which the borax has previously been dissolved, beating or agitating constantly with a wooden spatula until cold. Lastly add the oil of rose.

Petrolatum Cold Cream.—
Petrolatum (white)7 ounces
Paraffine  1/2 ounce
Lanolin2 ounces
Water3 ounces
Oil of rose3 drops
Alcohol1 drachm

A small quantity of borax may be added, if desirable, and the perfume may be varied to suit the taste.

Lip Salves:

Pomades For The Lips.
I.—Paraffine   80.0 parts
Vaseline   80.0 parts
Anchusine    0.5 parts
Bergamot oil    1.0 part
Lemon peel    1.0 part
II.—Vaseline Pomade.—
Vaseline oil, white1,000 parts
Wax, white  300 part
Geranium oil, African.   40 parts
Lemon oil.   20 parts
III.—Rose Pomade.—
Almond oil1,000 parts
Wax, white  300 parts
Alkannin    3 parts
Geranium oil   20 parts
IV.—Yellow Pomade.—
Vaseline oil, white.1,000 parts
Wax, white  200 parts
Spermaceti  200 parts
Saffron surrogate.   10 parts
Clove oil.   20 parts
V.—White Pomade.—
Vaseline oil, white1,000 parts
Wax, white.  300 parts
Bitter almond oil, genuine.   10 parts
Lemon oil    2 parts
VI.—Paraffine   49.0 parts
Vaseline.   49.0 parts
Oil of lemon.    0.75 parts
Oil of violet    0.75 parts
Carmine, quantity sufficient.
Lipol.

Manicure Preparations:

Powdered Nail Polishes.—
I.—Tin oxide 8 drachms
Carmine   1/4 drachm
Rose oil. 6 drops
Neroli oil. 5 drops
II.—Cinnabar. 1 drachm
Infusorial earth. 8 drachms
III.—Putty powder (fine). 4 drachms
Carmine. 2 grains
Oil of rose. 1 drop
IV.—White castile soap. 1 part
Hot water16 parts
Zinc chloride solution, 10 per cent, quantity sufficient.

Dissolve the soap in the water and to the solution add the zinc-chloride solution until no further precipitation occurs. Let stand over night; pour off the supernatant fluid, wash the precipitate {227} well with water, and dry at the ordinary temperature. Carmine may be added if desired.

Polishing Pastes For The Nails.—
I.—Talcum.5 drachms
Stannous oxide.3 drachms
Powdered tragacanth5 grains
Glycerine1 drachm
Rose water, quantity sufficient.
Solution of carmine sufficient to tint.

Make paste.

For softening the nails, curing hangnails, etc., an ointment is sometimes used consisting of white petrolatum, 8 parts; powdered castile soap, 1 part; and perfume to suit.

II.—Eosine10 grains
White wax   1/2 drachm
Spermaceti   1/2 drachm
Soft paraffine 1 ounce
Alcohol, a sufficient quantity.

Dissolve the eosine in as little alcohol as will suffice, melt the other ingredients together, add the solution, and stir until cool.

Nail-cleaning Washes.—
I.—Tartaric acid1 drachm
Tincture of myrrh1 drachm
Cologne water2 drachms
Water3 ounces

Dissolve the acid in the water; mix the tincture of myrrh and cologne, and add to the acid solution.

Dip the nails in this solution, wipe, and polish with chamois skin.

II.—Oxalic acid30 grains
Rose water 1 ounce
Nail Varnish.—
Paraffine wax60 grains
Chloroform 2 ounces
Oil of rose 3 drops

Pomades:

I.—Beef-Marrow Pomade.—

Vaseline oil, yellow20,000 parts
Ceresine, yellow 3,000 parts
Beef marrow 2,000 parts
Saffron substitute    15 parts
Lemon oil    50 parts
Bergamot oil    20 parts
Clove oil     5 parts
Lavender oil.    10 parts

II.—China Pomade.—

Vaseline oil, yellow20,000 parts
Ceresine, yellow 5,000 parts
Brilliant, brown    12 parts
Peru balsam    50 parts
Lemon oil     5 parts
Bergamot oil     5 parts
Clove oil     5 parts
Lavender oil     5 parts

III.—Crystalline Honey Pomade.—Nut oil, 125 drachms; spermaceti, 15 drachms; gamboge, 2 drachms; vervain oil, 10 drops; cinnamon oil, 20 drops; bergamot oil, 30 drops; rose oil, 3 drops. The spermaceti is melted in the nut oil on a water bath and digested with the gamboge for 20 minutes; it is next strained, scented, and poured into cans which are standing in water. The cooling must take place very slowly. Instead of gamboge, butter color may be used. Any desired scent mixture may be employed.

IV.—Herb Pomade.—

Vaseline oil, yellow20,000 parts
Ceresine, yellow 5,000 parts
Chlorophyll    20 parts
Lemon oil    50 parts
Clove oil    20 parts
Geranium oil, African    12 parts
Curled mint oil.     4 parts

V.—Rose Pomade.—

Vaseline oil, white20,000 parts
Ceresine, white 5,000 parts
Alkannin    15 parts
Geranium oil, African    50 parts
Palmarosa oil    30 parts
Lemon oil    20 parts

VI.—Strawberry Pomade.—When the strawberry season is on, and berries are plenty and cheap, the following is timely:

Strawberries, ripe and fresh 4 parts
Lard, sweet and fresh25 parts
Tallow, fresh 5 parts
Alkanet tincture, quantity sufficient.
Essential oil, quantity sufficient to perfume.

Melt lard and tallow together on the water bath at the temperature of boiling water. Have the strawberries arranged on a straining cloth. Add the alkanet tincture to the melted grease, stir in, and then pour the mixture over the berries. Stir the strained fats until the mass {228} begins to set, then add the perfume and stir in. A little artificial essence of strawberries may be added. The odor usually employed is rose, about 1 drop to every 2 pounds.

VII.—Stick Pomade.—

Tallow500 parts
Ceresine150 parts
Wax, yellow 50 parts
Rosin, light200 parts
Paraffine oil (thick)300 parts
Oil of cassia.  5 parts
Oil of bergamot  5 parts
Oil of clove  2 parts

VIII.—Vaseline Pomade.—Melt 250 parts of freshly rendered lard and 25 parts of white wax at moderate heat and mix well with 200 parts of vaseline. Add 15 parts of bergamot oil, 3 parts of lavender oil, 2 parts of geranium oil, and 2 parts of lemon oil, mixing well.

IX.—Witch-Hazel Jelly.—

Oil of sweet almonds256 parts
Extract of witch-hazel fluid 10 parts
Glycerine 32 parts
oft soap 20 parts
Tincture of musk, quantity sufficient to perfume.

Mix in a large mortar the glycerine and soft soap and stir until incorporated. Add and rub in the witch-hazel, and then add the oil, slowly, letting it fall in a very thin, small stream, under constant agitation; add the perfume, keeping up the agitation until complete incorporation is attained. Ten drops of musk to a quart of jelly is sufficient. Any other perfume may be used.

Colors For Pomade.

In coloring grease by means of alkanet or annotto it is best to tie the drug up in a piece of coarse cloth, place in a small portion of the grease, heat gently, squeezing well with a rod from time to time; and then adding this strongly colored grease to the remainder. This procedure obviates exposing the entire mass to heat, and neither decantation nor straining is needed.

Brocq’s Pomade For Itching.—
Acid phenic 1 part
Acid salicylic 2 parts
Acid tartaric 3 parts
Glycerole of starch60 to 100 parts

Mix and make a pomade.

White Cosmetique.—
Jasmine pomade 2 ounces
Tuberose pomade 2 ounces
White wax 2 ounces
Refined suet 4 ounces
Rose oil15 minims

Melt the wax and suet over a water bath, then add the pomades, and finally the otto.

Glycerine And Cucumber Jelly.—
Gelatin160 to 240 grains
Boric acid240 grains
Glycerine  6 fluidounces
Water 10 fluidounces

Perfume to suit. The perfume must be one that mixes without opalescence, otherwise it mars the beauty of the preparation. Orange-flower water or rose water could be substituted for the water if desired, or another perfume consisting of

Spirit of vanillin (15 grains per ounce)2 fluidrachms
Spirit of coumarin (15 grains per ounce)2 fluidrachms
Spirit of bitter almonds (1/8)8 minims

to the quantities given above would prove agreeable.

Cucumber Pomade.—
Cucumber pomade 2 ounces
Powdered white soap   1/2 ounce
Powdered borax 2 drachms
Cherry-laurel water 3 ounces
Rectified spirit 3 ounces
Distilled water to make48 ounces

Rub the pomade with the soap and borax until intimately mixed, then add the distilled water (which may be warmed to blood heat), ounce by ounce, to form a smooth and uniform cream. When 40 ounces of water have been so incorporated, dissolve any essential oils desired as perfume in the spirit, and add the cherry-laurel water, making up to 48 ounces with plain water.

Rouges And Paints:

Grease Paints.
White Grease Paints.—
I.—Prepared chalk 4 av. ounces
Zinc oxide 4 av. ounces
Bismuth subnitrate 4 av. ounces
Asbestos powder 4 av. ounces
Sweet almond oil, about 2 1/2 fluidounces
Camphor40 grains
Oil peppermint 3 fluidrachms
Esobouquet extract 3 fluidrachms

Sufficient almond oil should be used to form a mass of proper consistence.

II.—Zinc oxide.8 parts
Bismuth subnitrate8 parts
Aluminum oxychloride8 parts
Almond oil, quantity sufficient, or 5–6 parts.
Perfume, quantity sufficient.

Mix the zinc, bismuth, and aluminum oxychloride thoroughly; make into a paste with the oil. Any perfume may be added, but that generally used is composed of 1 drachm of essence of bouquet, 12 grains of camphor, and 12 minims of oil of peppermint for every 3 1/2 ounces of paste.

Bright Red.—
Zinc oxide10 parts
Bismuth subnitrate10 parts
Aluminum oxychloride10 parts
Almond oil, quantity sufficient.

Mix the zinc, bismuth, and aluminum salts, and to every 4 ounces of the mixture add 2 1/4 grains of eosine dissolved in a drachm of essence of bouquet, 12 minims oil of peppermint, and 12 grains of camphor. Make the whole into a paste with almond oil.

Red.—
Cacao butter 4 av. ounces
White wax 4 av. ounces
Olive oil 2 fluidounces
Oil of rose 8 drops
Oil of bergamot 3 drops
Oil of neroli 2 drops
Tincture musk 2 drops
Carmine90 grains
Ammonia water 3 fluidrachms
Deep, Or Bordeaux, Red.—
Zinc oxide30 parts
Bismuth subnitrate30 parts
Aluminum oxychloride30 parts
Carmine 1 part
Ammonia water 5 parts
Essence bouquet 3 parts
Peppermint, camphor, etc., quantity sufficient.

Mix the zinc, bismuth, and aluminum salts. Dissolve the carmine in the ammonia and add solution to the mixture. Add 24 grains of camphor, and 24 minims of oil of peppermint dissolved in the essence bouquet, and make the whole into a paste with oil of sweet almonds.

Vermilion.—
Vermilion 18 parts
Tincture of saffron 12 parts
Orris root, powdered 30 parts
Chalk, precipitated120 parts
Zinc oxide120 parts
Camphor  2 parts
Essence bouquet  9 parts
Oil of peppermint  2 parts
Almond oil, quantity sufficient.

Mix as before.

Pink.—
Zinc carbonate250 parts
Bismuth subnitrate250 parts
Asbestos250 parts
Expressed oil of almonds100 parts
Camphor 55 parts
Oil of peppermint 55 parts
Perfume 25 parts
Eosine  1 part
Dark Red.
Rouge.—
Zinc oxide. 2 1/2 ounces
Bismuth subnitrate 2 1/2 ounces
Aluminum plumbate 2 1/2 ounces
Eosine 1 drachm
Essence bouquet 2 drachms
Camphor 6 drachms
Oil of peppermint20 minims
Almond oil, quantity sufficient.

Dissolve the eosine in the essence bouquet, and mix with the camphor and peppermint; add the powder and make into a paste with almond oil.

Black Grease Paints.—
I.—Soot2 av. ounces
Sweet almond oil2 fluidounces
Cacao butter6 av. ounces
Perfume, sufficient.

{230}

The soot should be derived from burning camphor and repeatedly washed with alcohol. It should be triturated to a smooth mixture with the oil; then add to the melted cacao butter; add the perfume, and form into sticks.

Brown or other colors may be obtained by adding appropriate pigments, such as finely levigated burned umber, sienna, ocher, jeweler’s rouge, etc., to the foregoing base instead of lampblack.

II.—Best lampblack1 drachm
Cacao butter3 drachms
Olive oil3 drachms
Oil of neroli2 drops

Melt the cacao butter and oil, add the lampblack, and stir constantly as the mixture cools, adding the perfume toward the end.

III.—Lampblack1 part
Cacao butter6 parts
Oil neroli, sufficient.

Melt the cacao butter and the lampblack, and while cooling make an intimate mixture, adding the perfume toward the last.

IV.—Lampblack.1 part
Expressed oil of almonds1 part
Oil cocoanut1 part
Perfume, sufficient.

Beat the lampblack into a stiff paste with glycerine. Apply with a sponge; if necessary, mix a little water with it when using.

V.—Beat the finest lampblack into a stiff paste with glycerine and apply with a sponge; if necessary, add a little water to the mixture when using. Or you can make a grease paint as follows: Drop black, 2 drachms; almond oil, 2 drachms; cocoanut oil, 6 drachms; oil of lemon, 5 minims; oil of neroli, 1 minim. Mix.

Fatty Face Powders.

Dissolve 1 drachm anhydrous lanolin in 2 drachms of ether in a mortar. Add 3 drachms of light magnesia. Mix well, dry, and then add the following: French chalk, 2 ounces; powdered starch, 1 1/2 ounces; boric acid, 1 drachm; perfume, a sufficient quantity. A good perfume is coumarin, 2 grains, and attar of rose, 2 minims.

Nose Putty.

II.—White wax, 8 parts; rosin, white, 8 parts; mutton suet, 4 parts; color to suit. Melt together.

Rose Powder.
Rouge Tablets.
Ammonium carminate10 parts
Talc, in powder25 parts
Dextrin 8 parts
Simple syrup, sufficient.
Perfume, to taste, sufficient.

Mix the talc and dextrin and add the perfume, preferably in the shape of an essential oil (attar of rose, synthetic oil of jasmine, or violet, etc.), using 6 to 8 drops to every 4 ounces of other ingredients. Incorporate the ammonium carminate and add just enough simple syrup to make a mass easily rolled out. Cut into tablets of the desired size. The ammonium carminate is made by adding 1 part of carmine to 2 1/2 parts of strong ammonia water. Mix in a vial, cork tightly, and set aside until a solution is formed, shaking occasionally. The ammonium carminate is made by dissolving carmine in ammonia water to saturation.

Rouge Palettes.
Carmine 9 parts
French chalk50 parts
Almond oil12 parts

Add enough tragacanth mucilage to make the mass adhere and spread the whole evenly on the porcelain palette.

Liquid Rouge.—
I.—Carmine  4 parts
Stronger ammonia water  4 parts
Essence of rose 16 parts
Rose water to make.500 parts

Mix. A very delightful violet odor, if this is preferred, is obtained by using ionone in place of rose essence. A cheaper preparation may be made as follows: {231}

II.—Eosine  1 part
Distilled water 20 parts
Glycerine  5 parts
Cologne water 75 parts
Alcohol100 parts

Mix.

Rub together with 10 parts of almond oil and add sufficient mucilage of tragacanth to make the mass adhere to the porcelain palette.

III.—Carmine  1 part
Stronger ammonia water  1 part
Attar of rose  4 parts
Rose water125 parts

Mix. Any other color may be used in place of rose, violet (ionone), for instance, or heliotrope. A cheaper preparation may be made by substituting eosine for the carmine, as follows:

IV.—Eosine  1 part
Distilled water 20 parts
Glycerine  5 parts
Cologne water 75 parts
Alcohol100 parts

Mix.

Peach Tint.—
a.Buffalo eosine 4 drachms
Distilled water16 fluidounces
Mix.
b.Pure hydrochloric acid 2 1/2 drachms
Distilled water64 fluidounces
Mix.

Pour a into b, shake, and set aside for a few hours; then pour off the clear portion and collect the precipitate on a filter. Wash with the same amount of b and immediately throw the precipitate into a glass measure, stirring in with a glass rod sufficient of b to measure 16 ounces in all. Pass through a hair sieve to get out any filtering paper. To every 16 ounces add 8 ounces of glycerine.

Theater Rouge.
Cornstarch4 drachms
Powdered white talcum6 drachms

Mix.

a.Carminoline10 grains
Base 6 drachms
Water 4 drachms

Dissolve the carminoline in the water, mix with the base and dry.

b.Geranium red10 grains
Base 6 drachms
Water 4 drachms

Mix as above and dry.

Skin Foods.

Wrinkles on the face yield to a wash consisting of 50 parts milk of almonds (made with rose water) and 4 parts aluminum sulphate. Use morning and night.

Rough skin is to be washed constantly in Vichy water. Besides this, rough places are to have the following application twice daily—either a few drops of:

I.—Rose water100 parts
Glycerine 25 parts
Tannin    3/4 part
Mix. Or use:
II.—Orange-flower water100 parts
Glycerine 10 parts
Borax  2 parts
Mix. Sig.: Apply twice daily.
“Beauty Cream.”
Alum, powdered10 grams
Whites of 2 eggs
Boric acid 3 grams
Tincture of benzoin40 drops
Olive oil40 drops
Mucilage of acacia 5 drops
Rice flour, quantity sufficient.
Perfume, quantity sufficient.

Mix the alum and the white of eggs, without any addition of water whatever, in an earthen vessel, and dissolve the alum by the aid of very gentle heat (derived from a lamp, or gaslight, regulated to a very small flame), and constant, even, stirring. This must continue until the aqueous content of the albumen is completely driven off. Care must be taken to avoid coagulation of the albumen (which occurs very easily, as all know). Let the mass obtained in this manner get completely cold, then throw into a Wedgwood mortar, add the boric acid, tincture of benzoin, oil, mucilage (instead of which a solution of fine gelatin may be used), etc., and rub up together, thickening it with the addition of sufficient rice flour to give the desired consistence, and perfuming at will. Instead of olive oil any pure fat, or fatty oil, may be used, even vaseline or glycerine.

Face Bleach Or Beautifier.—
Syrupy lactic acid40 ounces
Glycerine80 ounces
Distilled water 5 gallons
Mix. Gradually add
Tincture of benzoin 3 ounces
Color by adding
Carmine No. 4040 grains
Glycerine 1 ounce
Ammonia solution   1/2 ounce
Water to 3 ounces
Heat this to drive off the ammonia, and mix all. Shake, set aside; then filter, and add
Solution of ionone 1 drachm
Add a few drachms of kaolin and filter until bright.

Blackhead Remedies.

I.—Lactic acid1 drachm
Boric acid1 drachm
Ceresine1 drachm
Paraffine oil6 drachms
Hydrous wool fat1 1/2 ounces
Castor oil6 drachms

II.—Unna advises hydrogen dioxide in the treatment of blackheads, his prescription being:

Hydrogen dioxide 20 to 40 parts
Hydrous wool fat 10 parts
Petrolatum 30 parts
III.—Thymol  1 part
Boric acid  2 parts
Tincture of witch-hazel 18 parts
Rose water sufficient to make200 parts

Mix. Apply to the face night and morning with a sponge, first washing the face with hot water and castile soap, and drying it with a coarse towel, using force enough to start the dried secretions. An excellent plan is to steam the face by holding it over a basin of hot water, keeping the head covered with a cloth.

IV.—Ichthyol1 drachm
Zinc oxide2 drachms
Starch2 drachms
Petrolatum3 drachms

This paste should be applied at night. The face should first be thoroughly steamed or washed in water as hot as can be comfortably borne. All pustules should then be opened and blackheads emptied with as little violence as possible. After careful drying the paste should be thoroughly rubbed into the affected areas. In the morning, after removing the paste with a bland soap, bathe with cool water and dry with little friction.

Hand Creams And Lotions:

Chapped Skin.—
I.—Glycerine8 parts
Bay rum4 parts
Ammonia water4 parts
Rose water4 parts

Mix the bay rum and glycerine, add the ammonia water, and finally the rose water. It is especially efficacious after shaving.

II.—As glycerine is bad for the skin of many people, here is a recipe which will be found more generally satisfactory as it contains less glycerine: Bay rum, 3 ounces; glycerine, 1 ounce; carbolic acid, 1/2 drachm (30 drops). Wash the hands well and apply while hands are soft, preferably just before going to bed. Rub in thoroughly. This rarely fails to cure the worst “chaps” in two nights.

III.—A sure remedy for chapped hands consists in keeping them carefully dry and greasing them now and then with an anhydrous fat (not cold cream). The best substances for the purpose are unguentum cereum or oleum olivarum.

If the skin of the hands is already cracked the following preparation will heal it:

Finely ground zinc oxide, 5.0 parts; bismuth oxychloride, 2.0 parts; with fat oil, 12.0 parts; next add glycerine, 5.0 parts; lanolin, 30.0 parts; and scent with rose water, 10.0 parts.

IV.—Wax salve (olive oil 7 parts, and yellow wax 3 parts), or pure olive oil.

Hand-cleaning Paste.

A good paste may be made by dissolving soap in the least possible quantity of hot water, and as it cools and sets stirring in the grit. A good formula is:

White soap2 1/2 pounds
Fine sand1 pound
Water5 1/2 pints
Lotion For The Hands.—
Boric acid1 drachm
Glycerine6 drachms
Dissolve by heat and mix with
Lanolin6 drachms
Vaseline1 ounce

Add any perfume desired. The borated glycerine should be cooled before mixing it with the lanolin.

Cosmetic Jelly.—
Tragacanth (white ribbon)60 grains
Rose water14 ounces

Macerate for two days and strain forcibly through coarse muslin or cheese {233} cloth. Add glycerine and alcohol, of each 1 ounce. Perfume to suit. Use immediately after bathing, rubbing in well until dry.

Perspiring Hands.

II.—Rub the hands several times per day with the following mixture:

By weight
Rose water125 parts
Borax 10 parts
Glycerine  8 parts
Hand Bleach.

For the removal of developing stains, see Photography.

Massage Creams:

Massage Application.—

White potash soap, shaved 20 parts Glycerine 30 parts Water 30 parts Alcohol (90 per cent) 10 parts

Dissolve the soap by heating it with the glycerine and water, mixed. Add the alcohol, and for every 30 ounces of the solution add 5 or 6 drops of the mistura oleoso balsamica, German Pharmacopœia. Filter while hot.

Medicated Massage Balls.
Casein Massage Cream.
Skimmed milk1 gallon
Water of ammonia1 ounce
Acetic acid1 ounce
Oil of rose geranium1 drachm
Oil of bitter almond1 drachm
Oil of anise2 drachms
Cold cream (see below), enough.
Carmine enough to color.

Add the water of ammonia to the milk and let it stand 24 hours. Then add the acetic acid and let it stand another 24 hours. Then strain through cheese cloth and add the oils. Work this thoroughly in a Wedgwood mortar, adding enough carmine to color it a delicate pink. To the product thus obtained add an equal amount of cold cream made by the formula herewith given:

White wax 4 ounces
Spermaceti 4 ounces
White petrolatum12 ounces
Rose water14 ounces
Borax80 grains

Melt the wax, spermaceti, and petrolatum together over a water bath; dissolve the borax in the rose water and add to the melted mass at one time. Agitate violently. Presumably the borax solution should be of the same temperature as the melted mass.

Massage Skin Foods.—

This preparation is used in massage for removing wrinkles:

I.—White wax  1/2 ounce
Spermaceti  1/2 ounce
Cocoanut oil1 ounce
Lanolin1 ounce
Oil of sweet almonds2 ounces
Melt in a porcelain dish, remove from the fire, and add
Orange-flower water1 ounce
Tincture of benzoin3 drops
Beat briskly until creamy.
II.—Snow-white cold cream4 ounces
Lanolin4 ounces
Oil of Theobroma4 ounces
White petrolatum oil4 ounces
Distilled water4 ounces
In hot weather add
Spermaceti1 1/2 drachms
White wax2 1/2 drachms

{234}

In winter the two latter are left out and the proportion of cocoa butter is modified. Prepared and perfumed in proportion same as cold cream.

III.—White petrolatum7 av. ounces
Paraffine wax  1/2 ounce
Lanolin2 av. ounces
Water3 fluidounces
Oil of rose3 drops
Vanillin2 grains
Alcohol1 fluidrachm

Melt the paraffine, add the lanolin and petrolatum, and when these have melted pour the mixture into a warm mortar, and, with constant stirring, incorporate the water. When nearly cold add the oil and vanillin, dissolved in the alcohol.

Preparations of this kind should be rubbed into the skin vigorously, as friction assists the absorbed fat in developing the muscles, and also imparts softness and fullness to the skin.

Skin Bleaches, Balms, Lotions, Etc.:

See also Cleaning Methods and Photography for removal of stains caused by photographic developers.

Astringent Wash For Flabby Skin.
Cucumber juice1 1/2 ounces
Tincture of benzoin  1/2 ounce
Cologne1 ounce
Elder-flower water5 ounces

Put the tincture of benzoin in an 8-ounce bottle, add the other ingredients, previously mixed, and shake slightly. There will be some precipitation of benzoin in this mixture, but it will settle out, or it may be strained out through cheese cloth.

Bleaching Skin Salves.
I.—Lanolin30 parts
Bitter almond oil10 parts
Mix and stir with this salve base a solution of
Borax 1 part
Glycerine15 parts
Hydrogen peroxide15 parts

For impure skin the following composition is recommended:

II.—White mercurial ointment 5 grams
Zinc ointment 5 grams
Lanolin30 grams
Bitter almond oil10 grams
And gradually stir into this a solution of
Borax 2 grams
Glycerine30 grams
Rose water10 grams
Concentrated nitric acid 5 drops
III.—Lanolin30 grams
Oil sweet almond10 grams
Borax 1 gram
Glycerine15 grams
Solution hydrogen peroxide15 grams

Mix the lanolin and oil, then incorporate the borax previously dissolved in the mixture of glycerine and peroxide solution.

IV.—Ointment ammoniac mercury 5 grams
Ointment zinc oxide 5 grams
Lanolin30 grams
Oil sweet almond10 grams
Borax 2 grams
Glycerine30 grams
Rose water10 grams
Nitric acid, C. P. 5 drops

Prepare in a similar manner as the foregoing. Rose oil in either ointment makes a good perfume. Both ointments may, of course, be employed as a general skin bleach, which, in fact, is their real office—cosmetic creams.

Emollient Skin Balm.—
Quince seed 1 ounce
Water 7 ounces
Glycerine 1 1/2 ounces
Alcohol 4 1/2 ounces
Salicylic acid 6 grains
Carbolic acid10 grains
Oil of bay10 drops
Oil of cloves 5 drops
Oil of orange peel10 drops
Oil of wintergreen 8 drops
Oil of rose 2 drops

Digest the quince seed in the water for 24 hours, and then press through a cloth; dissolve the salicylic acid in the alcohol; add the carbolic acid to the glycerine; put all together, shake well, and bottle.

Skin Lotion.—
Zinc sulphocarbolate30 grains
Alcohol (90 per cent) 4 fluidrachms
Glycerine 2 fluidrachms
Tincture of cochineal 1 fluidrachm
Orange-flower water 1 1/2 fluidounces
Rose water (triple) to make 6 fluidounces

{235}

Skin Discoloration.
Detergent For Skin Stains.

If an extra detergent quality is desired, 4 ounces of sodium carbonate may be added, and the quantity of soap may be reduced. Paste thus made will attack grease, etc., more readily, but it is harder on the skin.

Removing Inground Dirt.—
Egg albumen 8 parts
Boric acid 1 part
Glycerine32 parts
Perfume to suit.
Distilled water to make50 parts

Dissolve the boric acid in a sufficient quantity of water; mix the albumen and glycerine and pass through a silk strainer. Finally, mix the two fluids and add the residue of water.

Every time the hands are washed, dry on a towel, and then moisten them lightly but thoroughly with the liquid, and dry on a soft towel without rubbing. At night, on retiring, apply the mixture and wipe slightly or just enough to take up superfluous liquid; or, better still, sleep in a pair of cotton gloves.

Toilet Creams:

Almond Cold Creams.
I.—Sweet almonds 5 ounces
White castile soap 2 drachms
White wax 2 drachms
Spermaceti 2 drachms
Oil of bitter almonds10 minims
Oil of bergamot20 minims
Alcohol 6 fluidounces
Water, a sufficient quantity.

Beat the almonds in a smooth mortar until as much divided as their nature will admit; then gradually add water in very small quantities, continuing the beating until a smooth paste is obtained; add to this, gradually, one pint of water, stirring well all the time. Strain the resulting emulsion without pressure through a cotton cloth previously well washed to remove all foreign matter. If new, the cloth will contain starch, etc., which must be removed. Add, through the strainer, enough water to bring the measure of the strained liquid to 1 pint. While this operation is going on let the soap be shaved into thin ribbons, and melted, with enough water to cover it, over a very gentle fire or on a water bath. When fluid add the wax and spermaceti in large pieces, so as to allow them to melt slowly, and thereby better effect union with the soap. Stir occasionally. When all is melted place the soapy mixture in a mortar, run into it slowly the emulsion, blending the two all the while with the pestle. Care must be taken not to add the emulsion faster than it can be incorporated with the soap. Lastly add the alcohol in which the perfumes have been previously dissolved, in the same manner, using great care.

This preparation is troublesome to make and rather expensive, and it is perhaps no better for the purpose than glycerine. The mistake is often made of applying the latter too freely, its “stickiness” being unpleasant, and it is {236} best to dilute it largely with water. Such a lotion may be made by mixing

Glycerine1 part
Rose water9 parts

Plain water may, of course, be used as the diluent, but a slightly perfumed preparation is generally considered more desirable. The perfume may easily be obtained by dissolving a very small proportion of handkerchief “extract” or some essential oil in the glycerine, and then mixing with plain water.

II.—White wax  1/4 ounce
Spermaceti2 1/2 ounces
Oil of sweet almonds2 1/2 ounces
Melt, remove from the fire, and add
Rose water1 1/2 ounces

Beat until creamy: not until cold. When the cream begins to thicken add a few drops of oil of rose. Only the finest almond oil should be used. Be careful in weighing the wax and spermaceti. These precautions will insure a good product.

III.—White wax4 ounces
Spermaceti3 ounces
Sweet almond oil6 fluidounces
Glycerine4 fluidounces
Oil of rose geranium1 fluidrachm
Tincture of benzoin4 fluidrachms

Melt the wax and spermaceti, add the oil of sweet almonds, then beat in the glycerine, tincture of benzoin, and oil of rose geranium. When all are incorporated to a smooth, creamy mass, pour into molds.

IV.—Sweet almonds, blanched  5 ounces
Castile soap, white120 grains
White wax120 grains
Spermaceti120 grains
Oil of bitter almonds 10 drops
Oil of bergamot 20 drops
Alcohol  6 fluidounces
Water, sufficient.

Make an emulsion of the almonds with water so as to obtain 16 fluidounces of product, straining through cotton which has previously been washed to remove starch. Dissolve the soap with the aid of heat in the necessary amount of water to form a liquid, add the wax and spermaceti, continue the heat until the latter is melted, transfer to a mortar, and incorporate the almond emulsion slowly with constant stirring until all has been added and a smooth cream has been formed. Finally, add the two volatile oils.

V.—Melt, at moderate heat,

By weight.
White wax  100 parts
Spermaceti1,000 parts
Then stir in
Almond oil  500 parts
Rose water  260 parts
And scent with
Bergamot oil   10 parts
Geranium oil    5 parts
Lemon oil    4 parts
By weight.
VI.—Castor oil500 parts
White wax100 parts
Almond oil150 parts
Melt at moderate heat and scent with
Geranium oil  6 parts
Lemon oil  5 parts
Bergamot oil 10 parts
VII.—Almond oil400 parts
Lanoline200 parts
White wax 60 parts
Spermaceti 60 parts
Rose water300 parts
VIII.—White wax  6 parts
Tallow, freshly tried out  4 parts
Spermaceti  2 parts
Oil of sweet almonds  6 parts

Melt together and while still hot add, with constant stirring, 1 part of sodium carbonate dissolved in 79 parts of hot water. Stir until cold. Perfume to the taste.

IX.—Ointment of rose water  1 ounce
Oil of sweet almonds.  1 fluidounce
Glycerine  1 fluidounce
Boric acid100 grains
Solution of soda  2 1/4 fluidounces
Mucilage of quince seed.  4 fluidounces
Water enough to make 40 fluidounces
Oil of rose, oil of bitter almonds, of each sufficient to perfume.

Heat the ointment, oil, and solution of soda together, stirring constantly until an emulsion or saponaceous mixture is {237} formed. Then warm together the glycerine, acid, and mucilage and about 30 fluidounces of water; mix with the emulsion, stir until cold, and add the remainder of the water. Lastly, add the volatile oils.

The rose-water ointment used should be the “cold cream” of the United States Pharmacopœia.

X.—Spermaceti 2 ounces
White wax 2 ounces
Sweet almond oil14 fluidounces
Water, distilled 7 fluidounces
Borax, powder60 grains
Coumarin   1/2 grain
Oil of bergamot24 drops
Oil of rose 6 drops
Oil of bitter almonds 8 drops
Tincture of ambergris 5 drops

Melt the spermaceti and wax, add the sweet almond oil, incorporate the water in which the borax has previously been dissolved, and finally add the oils of bergamot, rose, and bitter almond.

XI.—Honey 2 av. ounces
Castile soap, white powder 1 av. ounce
Oil sweet almonds26 fluidounces
Oil bitter almonds 1 fluidrachm
Oil bergamot   1/2 fluidrachm
Oil cloves15 drops
Peru balsam 1 fluidrachm
Liquor potassa. Solution carmine, of each sufficient.

Mix the honey with the soap in a mortar, and add enough liquor potassa (about 1 fluidrachm) to produce a nice cream. Mix the volatile oils and balsam with the sweet almond oil, mix this with the cream, and continue the trituration until thoroughly mixed. Finally add, if desired, enough carmine solution to impart a rose tint.

XII.—White wax  800 parts
Spermaceti  800 parts
Sweet almond oil5,600 parts
Distilled water2,800 parts
Borax   50 parts
Bergamot oil   20 parts
Attar of rose    5 parts
Coumarin    0.1 part

Add for each pound of the cream 5 drops of etheric oil of bitter almonds, and 3 drops tincture of ambra. Proceed as in making cold cream.

The following also makes a fine cream:

XIII.—Spermaceti 3 parts
White wax 2 parts
Oil of almonds, fresh12 parts
Rose water, double 1 part
Glycerine, pure 1 part

Melt on a water bath the spermaceti and wax, add the oil (which should be fresh), and pour the whole into a slightly warmed mortar, under constant and lively stirring, to prevent granulation. Continue the trituration until the mass has a white, creamy appearance, and is about the consistence of butter at ordinary temperature. Add, little by little, under constant stirring, the orange-flower water and glycerine mixed, and finally the perfume as before. Continue the stirring for 15 or 20 minutes, then immediately put into containers.

Chappine Cream.—
Quince seed 2 drachms
Glycerine 1 1/2 ounces
Water 1 1/2 ounces
Lead acetate10 grains
Flavoring, sufficient.

Macerate the quince seed in water, strain, add the glycerine and lead acetate, previously dissolved in sufficient water; flavor with jockey club or orange essence.

Cucumber Creams.—
I.—White wax3 ounces
Spermaceti3 ounces
Benzoinated lard8 ounces
Cucumbers3 ounces

Melt together the wax, spermaceti, and lard, and infuse in the liquid the cucumbers previously grated. Allow to cool, stirring well; let stand a day, remelt, strain and again stir the “cream” until cold.

II.—Benzoinated lard 5 ounces
Suet 3 ounces
Cucumber juice10 ounces
Proceed as in making cold cream.
Glycerine Creams.—
I.—Oil of sweet almonds100 parts
White wax 13 parts
Glycerine, pure 25 parts
Add a sufficient quantity of any suitable perfume.

Melt, on the water bath, the oil, wax, and glycerine together, remove and as the mass cools down add the perfume in sufficient quantity to make a creamy mass. {238}

II.—Quince seed 1 ounce
Boric acid16 grains
Starch 1 ounce
Glycerine16 ounces
Carbolic acid30 minims
Alcohol12 ounces
Oil of lavender30 minims
Oil of rose10 drops
Extract of white rose 1 ounce
Water enough to make64 ounces

Dissolve the boric acid in a quart of water and in this solution macerate the quince seed for 3 hours; then strain. Heat together the starch and the glycerine until the starch granules are broken, and mix with this the carbolic acid. Dissolve the oils and the extract of rose in the alcohol, and add to the quince-seed mucilage; then mix all together, strain, and add water enough to make the product weigh 64 ounces.

III.—Glycerine 1 ounce
Borax 2 drachms
Boracic acid 1 drachm
Oil rose geranium30 drops
Oil bitter almond15 drops
Milk 1 gallon

Heat the milk until it curdles and allow it to stand 12 hours. Strain it through cheese cloth and allow it to stand again for 12 hours. Mix in the salts and glycerine and triturate in a mortar, finally adding the odors and coloring if wanted. The curdled milk must be entirely free from water to avoid separation. If the milk will not curdle fast enough the addition of 1 ounce of water ammonia to a gallon will hasten it. Take a gallon of milk, add 1 ounce ammonia water, heat (not boil), allow to stand 24 hours, and no trouble will be found in forming a good base for the cream.

IV.—This is offered as a substitute for cucumber cream for toilet uses. Melt 15 parts, by weight, of gelatin in hot water containing 15 parts, by weight, of boracic acid as well as 150 parts, by weight, of glycerine; the total amount of water used should not exceed 300 parts, by weight. It may be perfumed or not.

Lanolin Creams.—
I.—Anhydrous lanolin650 parts
Peach-kernel oil200 parts
Water150 parts

Perfume with about 15 drops of ionone or 20 drops of synthetic ylang-ylang.

II.—Lanolin 40 parts
Olive oil 15 parts
Paraffine ointment 10 parts
Aqua naphæ 10 parts
Distilled water 15 parts
Glycerine  5 parts
Boric acid  4 parts
Borax  4 parts
Geranium oil, sufficient.
Extract, triple, of ylang-ylang, quantity sufficient.
III.—Anhydrous lanolin650 drachms
Almond oil200 drachms
Water150 drachms
Oil of ylang-ylang  5 drops

Preparations which have been introduced years ago for the care of the skin and complexion are the glycerine gelées, which have the advantage over lanolin that they go further, but present the drawback of not being so quickly absorbed by the skin. These products are filled either into glasses or into tubes. The latter way is preferable and is more and more adopted, owing to the convenience of handling.

A good recipe for such a gelée is the following:

Moisten white tragacanth powder, 50 parts, with glycerine, 200 parts, and spirit of wine, 100 parts, and shake with a suitable amount of perfume; then quickly mix and shake with warm distilled water, 650 parts.

A transparent slime will form immediately which can be drawn off at once.

Mucilage Creams.—
I.—Starch 30 parts
Carrageen mucilage480 parts
Boric acid 15 parts
Glycerine240 parts
Cologne water240 parts

Boil the starch in the carrageen mucilage, add the boric acid and the glycerine. Let cool, and add the cologne water.

II.—Linseed mucilage240 parts
Boric acid  2 parts
Salicylic acid  1.3 parts
Glycerine 60 parts
Cologne water120 parts
Rose water120 parts

Instead of the cologne water any extracts may be used. Lilac and ylang-ylang are recommended.

Witch-hazel Creams.—
I.—Quince seed90 grains
Boric acid 8 grains
Glycerine 4 fluidounces
Alcohol 6 fluidounces
Carbolic acid 6 drachms
Cologne water 4 fluidounces
Oil lavender flowers40 drops
Glycerite starch 4 av. ounces
Distilled witch-hazel extract enough to make32 fluidounces.

Dissolve the boric acid in 16 ounces of the witch-hazel extract, macerate the quince seed in the solution for 3 hours, strain, add the glycerine, carbolic acid, and glycerite, and mix well. Mix the alcohol, cologne water, lavender oil, and mucilages, incorporate with the previous mixture, and add enough witch-hazel extract to bring to the measure of 32 fluidounces.

II.—Quince seed  4 ounces
Hot water 16 ounces
Glycerine 32 ounces
Witch-hazel water128 ounces
Boric acid  6 ounces
Rose extract  2 ounces
Violet extract  1 ounce

Macerate the quince seed in the hot water; add the glycerine and witch-hazel, in which the boric acid has been previously dissolved; let the mixture stand for 2 days, stirring occasionally; strain and add the perfume.

Skin Cream For Collapsible Tubes.—
I.—White vaseline6 ounces
White wax1 ounce
Spermaceti5 drachms
Subchloride bismuth6 drachms
Attar of rose6 minims
Oil of bitter almonds1 minim
Rectified spirit  1/2 ounce

Melt the vaseline, wax, and spermaceti together, and while cooling incorporate the subchloride of bismuth (in warm mortar). Dissolve the oils in the alcohol, and add to the fatty mixture, stirring all until uniform and cold. In cold weather the quantities of wax and spermaceti may be reduced.

II.—Lanolin1 ounce
Almond oil1 ounce
Oleate of zinc (powder)3 drachms
Extract of white rose1 1/2 drachms
Glycerine2 drachms
Rose water2 drachms
Face Cream Without Grease.—
Quince seed   10 parts
Boiling water1,000 parts
Borax    5 parts
Boric acid    5 parts
Glycerine  100 parts
Alcohol, 94 per cent  125 parts
Attar of rose, quantity sufficient to perfume.

Macerate the quince seed in half of the boiling water, with frequent agitations, for 2 hours and 30 minutes, then strain off. In the residue of the boiling water dissolve the borax and boric acid, add the glycerine and the perfume, the latter dissolved in the alcohol. Now add, little by little, the colate of quince seed, under constant agitation, which should be kept up for 5 minutes after the last portion of the colate is added.

Toilet Milks:

Cucumber Milk.—
Simple cerate 2 pounds
Powdered borax11 1/2 ounces
Powdered castile soap10 ounces
Glycerine26 ounces
Alcohol24 ounces
Cucumber juice32 ounces
Water to 5 gallons
Ionone 1 drachm
Jasmine   1/2 drachm
Neroli   1/2 drachm
Rhodinol15 minims

To the melted cerate in a hot water bath add the soap and stir well, keeping up the heat until perfectly mixed. Add 8 ounces of borax to 1 gallon of boiling water, and pour gradually into the hot melted soap and cerate; add the remainder of the borax and hot water, then the heated juice and glycerine, and lastly the alcohol. Shake well while cooling, set aside for 48 hours, and siphon off any water that may separate. Shake well, and repeat after standing again if necessary; then perfume.

Cucumber Juice.
Glycerine Milk.—
Glycerine1,150 parts
Starch, powdered  160 parts
Distilled water  400 parts
Tincture of benzoin   20 parts

Rub up 80 parts of the starch with the glycerine, then put the mixture on the steam bath and heat, under continuous stirring, until it forms a jellylike mass. Remove from the bath and stir in the remainder of the starch. Finally, add the water and tincture and stir till homogeneous.

Lanolin Toilet Milk.—
White castile soap, powdered22 grains
Lanolin 1 ounce
Tincture benzoin12 drachms
Water, enough.

{240}

Dissolve the soap in 2 fluidounces of warm water, also mix the lanolin with 2 fluidounces of warm water; then incorporate the two with each other, finally adding the tincture. The latter may be replaced by 90 grains of powdered borax.

Jasmine Milk.

Sunburn And Freckle Remedies.

I.—Apply over the affected skin a solution of corrosive sublimate, 1 in 500, or, if the patient can stand it, 1 in 300, morning and evening, and for the night apply emplastrum hydrargyri compositum to the spots. In the morning remove the plaster and all remnants of it by rubbing fresh butter or cold cream over the spots.

For redness of the skin apply each other day zinc oxide ointment or ointment of bismuth subnitrate.

II.—Besnier recommends removal of the mercurial ointment with green soap, and the use, at night, of an ointment composed of vaseline and Vigo’s plaster (emplastrum hydrargyri compositum), in equal parts. In the morning wash off with soap and warm water, and apply the following:

Vaseline, white20 parts
Bismuth carbonate 5 parts
Kaolin 5 parts

Mix, and make an ointment.

III.—Leloir has found the following of service. Clean the affected part with green soap or with alcohol, and then apply several coats of the following:

Acid chrysophanic 15 parts
Chloroform100 parts

Mix. Apply with a camel’s-hair pencil.

When the application dries thoroughly, go over it with a layer of traumaticine. This application will loosen itself in several days, when the process should be repeated.

IV.—When the skin is only slightly discolored use a pomade of salicylic acid, or apply the following:

Acid chrysophanic, from 1 to 4 parts
Acid salicylic 1 to 2 parts
Collodion40 parts

V.—When there is need for a more complicated treatment, the following is used:

(a)Corrosive sublimate     1 part
Orange-flower water 7,500 parts
Acid, hydrochloric, dilute   500 parts
(b)Bitter almonds 4,500 parts
Glycerine 2,500 parts
Orange-flower water25,000 parts

Rub up to an emulsion in a porcelain capsule. Filter and add, drop by drop, and under constant stirring, 5 grams of tincture of benzoin. Finally mix the two solutions, adding the second to the first.

This preparation is applied with a sponge, on retiring, to the affected places, and allowed to dry on.

VI.—According to Brocq the following should be penciled over the affected spots:

Fresh pure milk50 parts
Glycerine30 parts
Acid, hydrochloric, concentrated 5 parts
Ammonium chlorate 3 parts

VII.—Other external remedies that may be used are lactic acid diluted with 3 volumes of water, applied with a glass rod; dilute nitric acid, and, finally, peroxide of hydrogen, which last is a very powerful agent. Should it cause too much inflammation, the latter may be assuaged by using an ointment of zinc oxide or bismuth subnitrate—or one may use the following:

Kaolin 4 parts
Vaseline10 parts
Glycerine 4 parts
Magnesium carbonate 2 parts
Zinc oxide 2 parts
Freckle Remedies.—
I.—Poppy oil 1 part
Lead acetate 2 parts
Tincture benzoin 1 part
Tincture quillaia 5 parts
Spirit nitrous ether 1 part
Rose water95 parts

Saponify the oil with the lead acetate; add the rose water, and follow with the tinctures.

II.—Chloral hydrate 2 drachms
Carbolic acid 1 drachm
Tincture iodine60 drops
Glycerine 1 ounce

Mix and dissolve. Apply with a camel’s-hair pencil at night.

III.—Distilled vinegar660 parts
Lemons, cut in small pieces135 parts
Alcohol, 85 per cent 88 parts
Lavender oil 23 parts
Water 88 parts
Citron oil  6 parts

This mixture is allowed to stand for 3 or 4 days in the sun and filtered. Coat, by means of a sponge before retiring, the places of the skin where the freckles are and allow to dry.

Freckles And Liver Spots.

There are many such methods, and especially to be mentioned is that of Unna, who uses resorcin for the purpose. Lassar makes use of a paste of naphthol and sulphur.

Sunburn Remedies.—
I.—Zinc sulphocarbolate 1 part
Glycerine.20 parts
Rose water70 parts
Alcohol, 90 per cent 8 parts
Cologne water 1 part
Spirit of camphor 1 part
II.—Borax 4 parts
Potassium chlorate 2 parts
Glycerine10 parts
Alcohol 4 parts
Rose water to make90 parts
III.—Citric acid 2 drachms
Ferrous sulphate (cryst.)18 grains
Camphor 2 grains
Elder-flower water 3 fluidounces
IV.—Potassium carbonate 3 parts
Sodium chloride 2 parts
Orange-flower water15 parts
Rose water65 parts
V.—Boroglycerine, 50 per cent 1 part
Ointment of rose water 9 parts
VI.—Sodium bicarbonate 1 part
Ointment of rose water 7 parts
VII.—Bicarbonate of soda 2 drachms
Powdered borax 1 drachm
Compound tincture of lavender 1 1/2 drachms
Glycerine 1 ounce
Rose water 4 ounces

Dissolve the soda and borax in the glycerine and rose water, and add the tincture. Apply with a small piece of sponge 2 or 3 times a day. Then gently dry by dabbing with a soft towel.

VIII.—Quince seeds 2 drachms
Distilled water10 ounces
Glycerine 2 ounces
Alcohol, 94 per cent 1 ounce
Rose water 2 ounces

Boil the seeds in the water for 10 minutes, then strain off the liquid, and when cold add to it the glycerine, alcohol, and rose water.

IX.—White soft soap 2 1/2 drachms
Glycerine 1 1/2 drachms
Almond oil11 drachms

Well mix the glycerine and soap in a mortar, and very gradually add the oil, stirring constantly until perfectly mixed.

X.—Subnitrate of bismuth 1 1/2 drachms
Powdered French chalk30 grains
Glycerine 2 drachms
Rose water 1 1/2 ounces

Mix the powders, and rub down carefully with the glycerine; then add the rose water. Shake the bottle before use.

XI.—Glycerine cream2 drachms
Jordan almonds4 drachms
Rose water5 ounces
Essential oil of almonds3 drops

Blanch the almonds, and then dry and beat them up into a perfectly smooth paste; then mix in the glycerine cream and essential oil. Gradually add the rose water, stirring well after each addition; then strain through muslin.

Tan And Freckle Lotion.—

Solution A:

Potassium iodide, iodine, glycerine, and infusion rose.

Dissolve the potassium iodide in a {242} small quantity of the infusion and a drachm of the glycerine; with this fluid moisten the iodine in a glass of water and rub it down, gradually adding more liquid, until complete solution has been obtained; then stir in the remainder of the ingredients, and bottle the mixture.

Solution B:

Sodium thiosulphate and rose water. With a small camel’s-hair pencil or piece of fine sponge apply a little of solution A to the tanned or freckled surface, until a slight or tolerably uniform brownish yellow skin has been produced. At the expiration of 15 or 20 minutes moisten a piece of cambric, lint, or soft rag with B and lay it upon the affected part, removing, squeezing away the liquid, soaking it afresh, and again applying until the iodine stain has disappeared. Repeat the process thrice daily, but diminish the frequency of application if tenderness be produced.

A Cure For Tan.
Improved Carron Oil.
Linseed oil2 ounces
Limewater2 ounces
Paraffine, liquid1 ounce

Mix the linseed oil and water, and add the paraffine. Shake well before using.

Liver Spots.

I.—Corrosive sublimate    1 part
White sugar  190 parts
White of egg   34 parts
Lemon juice  275 parts
Water to make2,500 parts

Mix the sublimate, sugar, and albumen intimately, then add the lemon juice and water. Dissolve, shake well, and after standing an hour, filter. Apply in the morning after the usual ablutions, and let dry on the face.

II.—Bichloride of mercury, in coarse powder, 8 grains; witch-hazel, 2 ounces; rose water, 2 ounces.

Agitate until a solution is obtained. Mop over the affected parts. Keep out of the way of ignorant persons and children.

Toilet Powders:

Almond Powders For The Toilet.—
I.—Almond meal6,000 parts
Bran meal3,000 parts
Soap powder  600 parts
Bergamot oil   50 parts
Lemon oil   15 parts
Clove oil   15 parts
Neroli oil    6 parts
II.—Almond meal7,000 parts
Bran meal2,000 parts
Violet root  900 parts
Borax  350 parts
Bitter almond oil   18 parts
Palmarosa oil   36 parts
Bergamot oil   10 parts
III.—Almond meal3,000 parts
Bran meal3,000 parts
Wheat flour3,000 parts
Sand  100 parts
Lemon oil   40 parts
Bitter almond oil   10 parts
Bath Powder.—
Borax 4 ounces
Salicylic acid 1 drachm
Extract of cassia 1 drachm
Extract of jasmine 1 drachm
Oil of lavender20 minims

Rub the oil and extracts with the borax and salicylic acid until the alcohol has evaporated. Use a heaping teaspoonful to the body bath.

Brunette Or Rachelle.—
Base 9 pounds
Powdered Florentine orris 1 pound
Perfume the same.
Powdered yellow ocher . . . (av.) 3 ounces 120 grains
Carmine No. 4060 grains

Rub down the carmine and ocher with alcohol in a mortar, and spread on glass to dry; then mix and sift.

Violet Poudre De Riz.—
I.—Cornstarch7 pounds
Rice flour1 pound
Powdered talc1 pound
Powdered orris root1 pound
Extract of cassia3 ounces
Extract of jasmine1 ounce

{243}

II.—Cheaper.

Potato starch8 pounds
Powdered talc1 pound
Powdered orris1 pound
Extract of cassia3 ounces
Barber’s Powder.—
Cornstarch5 pounds
Precipitated chalk3 pounds
Powdered talc2 pounds
Oil of neroli1 drachm
Oil of cedrat1 drachm
Oil of orange2 drachms
Extract of jasmine1 ounce
Rose Poudre De Riz.—
I.—Cornstarch9 pounds
Powdered talc1 pound
Oil of rose1 1/4 drachms
Extract of jasmine6 drachms
II.—Potato starch9 pounds
Powdered talc1 pound
Oil of rose  1/2 drachm
Extract of jasmine  1/2 ounce
Ideal Cosmetic Powder.
Zinc, white 50 parts
Calcium carbonate, precipitated300 parts
Steatite, best white 50 parts
Starch, wheat, or rice100 parts
Extract white rose, triple  3 parts
Extract jasmine, triple  3 parts
Extract orange flower, triple  3 parts
Extract of cassia, triple  3 parts
Tincture of myrrh  1 part

Powder the solids and mix thoroughly by repeated siftings.

Flesh Face Powder.—
Base  9 pounds
Powdered Florentine orris  1 pound
Carmine No. 40250 grains
Extract of jasmine100 minims
Oil of neroli 20 minims
Vanillin  5 grains
Artificial musk 30 grains
White heliotropin 30 grains
Coumarin  1 grain

Rub the carmine with a portion of the base and alcohol in a mortar, mixing the perfume the same way in another large mortar, and adding the orris. Mix and sift all until specks of carmine disappear on rubbing.

White Face Powder.—
Base9 pounds
Powdered Florentine orris1 pound

Perfume the same. Mix and sift.

Talcum Powders.

The following formulas for other varieties of the powder may prove useful:

Violet Talc.—

I.—Powdered talc14 ounces
Powdered orris root 2 ounces
Extract of cassia   1/2 ounce
Extract of jasmine   1/4 ounce

Rose Talc.—

II.—Powdered talc5 pounds
Oil of rose  1/2 drachm
Extract of jasmine4 ounces

Tea-Rose Talc.—

III.—Powdered talc 5 pounds
Oil of rose50 drops
Oil of wintergreen 4 drops
Extract of jasmine 2 ounces

Borated Apple Blossom.—

IV.—Powdered talc22 pounds
Magnesium carbonate 2 3/4 pounds
Powdered boric acid 1 pound
Mix.
Carnation pink blossom (Schimmel’s) 2 ounces
Extract of trefle 2 drachms
To 12 drachms of this mixture add:
Neroli 1 drachm
Vanillin   1/2 drachm
Alcohol to 3 ounces
Sufficient for 25 pounds.
V.—Talcum 8 ounces
Starch 8 ounces
Oil of neroli10 drops
Oil of ylang-ylang 5 drops
VI.—Talcum12 ounces
Starch 4 ounces
Orris root 2 ounces
Oil of bergamot12 drops
VII.—Talcum14 ounces
Starch 2 ounces
Lanolin   1/2 ounce
Oil of rose10 drops
Oil of neroli 5 drops

Toilet Vinegars:

Pumillo Toilet Vinegar.—
Alcohol, 80 per cent1,600 parts
Vinegar, 10 per cent  840 parts
Oil of pinu spumillo   44 parts
Oil of lavender    4 parts
Oil of lemon    2 parts
Oil of bergamot    2 parts

Dissolve the oils in the alcohol, add the vinegar, let stand for a week and filter.

Vinaigre Rouge.—
Acetic acid   24 parts
Alum    3 parts
Peru balsam    1 part
Carmine, No. 40   12 parts
Ammonia water    6 parts
Rose water, distilled  575 parts
Alcohol1,250 parts

Dissolve the balsam of Peru in the alcohol, and the alum in the rose water. Mix the two solutions, add the acetic acid, and let stand overnight. Dissolve the carmine in the ammonia water and add to mixture. Shake thoroughly, let stand for a few minutes, then decant.

Toilet Waters:

“Beauty Water.”—
Fresh egg albumen500 parts
Alcohol125 parts
Lemon oil  2 parts
Lavender oil  2 parts
Oil of thyme  2 parts

Mix the ingredients well together. When first mixed the liquid becomes flocculent, but after standing for 2 or 3 days clears up—sometimes becomes perfectly clear, and may be decanted. It forms a light, amber-colored liquid that remains clear for months.

At night, before retiring, pour about a teaspoonful of the water in the palm of the hand, and rub it over the face and neck, letting it dry on. In the morning, about an hour before the bath, repeat the operation, also letting the liquid dry on the skin. The regular use of this preparation for 4 weeks will give the skin an extraordinary fineness, clearness, and freshness.

Rottmanner’s Beauty Water.
Birch Waters.
I.—Alcohol, 96 per cent3,500 parts
Water  700 parts
Potash soap  200 parts
Glycerine  150 parts
Oil of birch buds   50 parts
Essence of spring flowers  100 parts
Chlorophyll, quantity sufficient to color.

Mix the water with 700 parts of the alcohol, and in the mixture dissolve the soap. Add the essence of spring flowers and birch oil to the remainder of the alcohol, mix well, and to the mixture add, little by little, and with constant agitation, the soap mixture. Finally, add the glycerine, mix thoroughly, and set aside for 8 days, filter and color the filtrate with chlorophyll, to which is added a little tincture of saffron. To use, add an equal volume of water to produce a lather.

II.—Alcohol, 96 per cent2,000 parts
Water  500 parts
Tincture of cantharides   25 parts
Salicylic acid   25 parts
Glycerine  100 parts
Oil of birch buds   40 parts
Bergamot oil   30 parts
Geranium oil    5 parts

Dissolve the oils in the alcohol, add the acid and tincture of cantharides; mix the water and glycerine and add, and, finally, color as before.

III.—Alcohol30,000 parts
Birch juice 3,000 parts
Glycerine 1,000 parts
Bergamot oil    90 parts
Vanillin    10 parts
Geranium oil    50 parts
Water14,000 parts
IV.—Alcohol40,000 parts
Oil of birch   150 parts
Bergamot oil   100 parts
Lemon oil    50 parts
Palmarosa oil   100 parts
Glycerine 2,000 parts
Borax   150 parts
Water20,000 parts
Violet Ammonia Water.

I.—Moisten coarsely powdered ammonium carbonate, contained in a suitable bottle, with a mixture of concentrated tincture of orris root, 2 1/2 ounces; aromatic spirit of ammonia, 1 drachm; violet extract, 3 drachms.

II.—Fill suitable bottles with coarsely powdered ammonium carbonate and add to the salt as much of the following solution as it will absorb: Oil of orris, 5 minims; oil of lavender flowers, 10 minims; violet extract, 30 minims; stronger water of ammonia, 2 fluidounces.

III.—The following is a formula for a liquid preparation: Extract violet, 8 fluidrachms; extract cassia, 8 fluidrachms; spirit of rose, 4 fluidrachms; tincture of orris, 4 fluidrachms; cologne spirit, 1 pint; spirit of ammonia, 1 ounce. Spirit of ionone may be used instead of extract of violet.

Violet Witch-hazel.—
Spirit of ionone   1/2 drachm
Rose water 6 ounces
Distilled extract of witch-hazel enough to make16 ounces