COSMETICS
Cold Cream.
| I.— | Oil of almonds | 425 parts |
|---|---|---|
| Lanolin | 185 parts | |
| White wax | 62 parts | |
| Spermaceti | 62 parts | |
| Borax | 4.5 parts | |
| Rose water | 300 part |
Melt together the first four ingredients, then incorporate the solution of borax in the rose water.
| II.— | Tragacanth | 125 parts |
|---|---|---|
| Boric acid | 100 parts | |
| Glycerine | 140 parts | |
| Expressed oil of almonds | 50 parts | |
| Glyconine | 50 parts | |
| Oil of lavender | 0.5 parts | |
| Water enough to make | 1,000 parts |
Mix the tragacanth and the boric acid with the glycerine; add the almond oil, lavender oil, and egg glycerite, which have been previously well incorporated, and, lastly, add the water in divided portions until a clear jelly of the desired consistency is obtained.
| III.— | Oil of almonds | 26 ounces |
|---|---|---|
| Castor oil (odorless) | 6 ounces | |
| Lard (benzoated) | 8 ounces | |
| White wax | 8 ounces | |
| Rose water (in winter less, in summer more, than quantity named) | 12 ounces | |
| Orange-flower water | 8 ounces | |
| Oil of rose | 15 minims | |
| Extract of jasmine | 6 drachms | |
| Extract of cassia | 4 drachms | |
| Borax | 2 ounces | |
| Glycerine | 4 ounces |
{226}
Melt the oil of sweet almonds, wax, and lard together, and stir in the castor oil; make a solution of the borax in the glycerine and rose and orange-flower waters; add this solution, a little at a time, to the melted fat, stirring constantly to insure thorough incorporation; finally add the oil of rose dissolved in the extracts, and beat the ointment until cold.
IV.—Spermaceti (pure), 1/4 ounce; white wax (pure), 1/4 ounce; almond oil, 1/4 pound; butter of cocoa, 1/4 pound; lanolin, 2 ounces.
Melt and stir in 1 drachm of balsam of Peru. After settling, pour off the clear portion and add 2 fluidrachms of orange-flower water and stir briskly until it concretes.
Camphorated Cold Cream.—
| Oil of sweet almonds | 8 fluidounces |
| White wax | 1 ounce |
| Spermaceti | 1 ounce |
| Camphor | 1 ounce |
| Rose water | 5 fluidounces |
| Borax (in fine powder) | 4 drachms |
| Oil of rose | 10 drops |
Melt the wax and spermaceti, add the oil of sweet almonds, in which the camphor has been dissolved with very gentle heat; then gradually add the rose water, in which the borax has previously been dissolved, beating or agitating constantly with a wooden spatula until cold. Lastly add the oil of rose.
Petrolatum Cold Cream.—
| Petrolatum (white) | 7 ounces |
| Paraffine | 1/2 ounce |
| Lanolin | 2 ounces |
| Water | 3 ounces |
| Oil of rose | 3 drops |
| Alcohol | 1 drachm |
A small quantity of borax may be added, if desirable, and the perfume may be varied to suit the taste.
Lip Salves:
Pomades For The Lips.
| I.— | Paraffine | 80.0 parts |
|---|---|---|
| Vaseline | 80.0 parts | |
| Anchusine | 0.5 parts | |
| Bergamot oil | 1.0 part | |
| Lemon peel | 1.0 part | |
| II.—Vaseline Pomade.— | ||
| Vaseline oil, white | 1,000 parts | |
| Wax, white | 300 part | |
| Geranium oil, African. | 40 parts | |
| Lemon oil. | 20 parts | |
| III.—Rose Pomade.— | ||
| Almond oil | 1,000 parts | |
| Wax, white | 300 parts | |
| Alkannin | 3 parts | |
| Geranium oil | 20 parts | |
| IV.—Yellow Pomade.— | ||
| Vaseline oil, white. | 1,000 parts | |
| Wax, white | 200 parts | |
| Spermaceti | 200 parts | |
| Saffron surrogate. | 10 parts | |
| Clove oil. | 20 parts | |
| V.—White Pomade.— | ||
| Vaseline oil, white | 1,000 parts | |
| Wax, white. | 300 parts | |
| Bitter almond oil, genuine. | 10 parts | |
| Lemon oil | 2 parts | |
| VI.— | Paraffine | 49.0 parts |
| Vaseline. | 49.0 parts | |
| Oil of lemon. | 0.75 parts | |
| Oil of violet | 0.75 parts | |
| Carmine, quantity sufficient. | ||
Lipol.
Manicure Preparations:
Powdered Nail Polishes.—
| I.— | Tin oxide | 8 drachms |
|---|---|---|
| Carmine | 1/4 drachm | |
| Rose oil. | 6 drops | |
| Neroli oil. | 5 drops | |
| II.— | Cinnabar. | 1 drachm |
| Infusorial earth. | 8 drachms | |
| III.— | Putty powder (fine). | 4 drachms |
| Carmine. | 2 grains | |
| Oil of rose. | 1 drop | |
| IV.— | White castile soap. | 1 part |
| Hot water | 16 parts | |
| Zinc chloride solution, 10 per cent, quantity sufficient. | ||
Dissolve the soap in the water and to the solution add the zinc-chloride solution until no further precipitation occurs. Let stand over night; pour off the supernatant fluid, wash the precipitate {227} well with water, and dry at the ordinary temperature. Carmine may be added if desired.
Polishing Pastes For The Nails.—
| I.— | Talcum. | 5 drachms |
|---|---|---|
| Stannous oxide. | 3 drachms | |
| Powdered tragacanth | 5 grains | |
| Glycerine | 1 drachm | |
| Rose water, quantity sufficient. | ||
| Solution of carmine sufficient to tint. | ||
Make paste.
For softening the nails, curing hangnails, etc., an ointment is sometimes used consisting of white petrolatum, 8 parts; powdered castile soap, 1 part; and perfume to suit.
| II.— | Eosine | 10 grains |
|---|---|---|
| White wax | 1/2 drachm | |
| Spermaceti | 1/2 drachm | |
| Soft paraffine | 1 ounce | |
| Alcohol, a sufficient quantity. | ||
Dissolve the eosine in as little alcohol as will suffice, melt the other ingredients together, add the solution, and stir until cool.
Nail-cleaning Washes.—
| I.— | Tartaric acid | 1 drachm |
|---|---|---|
| Tincture of myrrh | 1 drachm | |
| Cologne water | 2 drachms | |
| Water | 3 ounces |
Dissolve the acid in the water; mix the tincture of myrrh and cologne, and add to the acid solution.
Dip the nails in this solution, wipe, and polish with chamois skin.
| II.— | Oxalic acid | 30 grains |
|---|---|---|
| Rose water | 1 ounce |
Nail Varnish.—
| Paraffine wax | 60 grains |
| Chloroform | 2 ounces |
| Oil of rose | 3 drops |
Pomades:
I.—Beef-Marrow Pomade.—
| Vaseline oil, yellow | 20,000 parts |
| Ceresine, yellow | 3,000 parts |
| Beef marrow | 2,000 parts |
| Saffron substitute | 15 parts |
| Lemon oil | 50 parts |
| Bergamot oil | 20 parts |
| Clove oil | 5 parts |
| Lavender oil. | 10 parts |
II.—China Pomade.—
| Vaseline oil, yellow | 20,000 parts |
| Ceresine, yellow | 5,000 parts |
| Brilliant, brown | 12 parts |
| Peru balsam | 50 parts |
| Lemon oil | 5 parts |
| Bergamot oil | 5 parts |
| Clove oil | 5 parts |
| Lavender oil | 5 parts |
III.—Crystalline Honey Pomade.—Nut oil, 125 drachms; spermaceti, 15 drachms; gamboge, 2 drachms; vervain oil, 10 drops; cinnamon oil, 20 drops; bergamot oil, 30 drops; rose oil, 3 drops. The spermaceti is melted in the nut oil on a water bath and digested with the gamboge for 20 minutes; it is next strained, scented, and poured into cans which are standing in water. The cooling must take place very slowly. Instead of gamboge, butter color may be used. Any desired scent mixture may be employed.
IV.—Herb Pomade.—
| Vaseline oil, yellow | 20,000 parts |
| Ceresine, yellow | 5,000 parts |
| Chlorophyll | 20 parts |
| Lemon oil | 50 parts |
| Clove oil | 20 parts |
| Geranium oil, African | 12 parts |
| Curled mint oil. | 4 parts |
V.—Rose Pomade.—
| Vaseline oil, white | 20,000 parts |
| Ceresine, white | 5,000 parts |
| Alkannin | 15 parts |
| Geranium oil, African | 50 parts |
| Palmarosa oil | 30 parts |
| Lemon oil | 20 parts |
VI.—Strawberry Pomade.—When the strawberry season is on, and berries are plenty and cheap, the following is timely:
| Strawberries, ripe and fresh | 4 parts |
| Lard, sweet and fresh | 25 parts |
| Tallow, fresh | 5 parts |
| Alkanet tincture, quantity sufficient. | |
| Essential oil, quantity sufficient to perfume. |
Melt lard and tallow together on the water bath at the temperature of boiling water. Have the strawberries arranged on a straining cloth. Add the alkanet tincture to the melted grease, stir in, and then pour the mixture over the berries. Stir the strained fats until the mass {228} begins to set, then add the perfume and stir in. A little artificial essence of strawberries may be added. The odor usually employed is rose, about 1 drop to every 2 pounds.
VII.—Stick Pomade.—
| Tallow | 500 parts |
| Ceresine | 150 parts |
| Wax, yellow | 50 parts |
| Rosin, light | 200 parts |
| Paraffine oil (thick) | 300 parts |
| Oil of cassia. | 5 parts |
| Oil of bergamot | 5 parts |
| Oil of clove | 2 parts |
VIII.—Vaseline Pomade.—Melt 250 parts of freshly rendered lard and 25 parts of white wax at moderate heat and mix well with 200 parts of vaseline. Add 15 parts of bergamot oil, 3 parts of lavender oil, 2 parts of geranium oil, and 2 parts of lemon oil, mixing well.
IX.—Witch-Hazel Jelly.—
| Oil of sweet almonds | 256 parts |
| Extract of witch-hazel fluid | 10 parts |
| Glycerine | 32 parts |
| oft soap | 20 parts |
| Tincture of musk, quantity sufficient to perfume. | |
Mix in a large mortar the glycerine and soft soap and stir until incorporated. Add and rub in the witch-hazel, and then add the oil, slowly, letting it fall in a very thin, small stream, under constant agitation; add the perfume, keeping up the agitation until complete incorporation is attained. Ten drops of musk to a quart of jelly is sufficient. Any other perfume may be used.
Colors For Pomade.
In coloring grease by means of alkanet or annotto it is best to tie the drug up in a piece of coarse cloth, place in a small portion of the grease, heat gently, squeezing well with a rod from time to time; and then adding this strongly colored grease to the remainder. This procedure obviates exposing the entire mass to heat, and neither decantation nor straining is needed.
Brocq’s Pomade For Itching.—
| Acid phenic | 1 part |
| Acid salicylic | 2 parts |
| Acid tartaric | 3 parts |
| Glycerole of starch | 60 to 100 parts |
Mix and make a pomade.
White Cosmetique.—
| Jasmine pomade | 2 ounces |
| Tuberose pomade | 2 ounces |
| White wax | 2 ounces |
| Refined suet | 4 ounces |
| Rose oil | 15 minims |
Melt the wax and suet over a water bath, then add the pomades, and finally the otto.
Glycerine And Cucumber Jelly.—
| Gelatin | 160 to 240 grains |
| Boric acid | 240 grains |
| Glycerine | 6 fluidounces |
| Water | 10 fluidounces |
Perfume to suit. The perfume must be one that mixes without opalescence, otherwise it mars the beauty of the preparation. Orange-flower water or rose water could be substituted for the water if desired, or another perfume consisting of
| Spirit of vanillin (15 grains per ounce) | 2 fluidrachms |
| Spirit of coumarin (15 grains per ounce) | 2 fluidrachms |
| Spirit of bitter almonds (1/8) | 8 minims |
to the quantities given above would prove agreeable.
Cucumber Pomade.—
| Cucumber pomade | 2 ounces |
| Powdered white soap | 1/2 ounce |
| Powdered borax | 2 drachms |
| Cherry-laurel water | 3 ounces |
| Rectified spirit | 3 ounces |
| Distilled water to make | 48 ounces |
Rub the pomade with the soap and borax until intimately mixed, then add the distilled water (which may be warmed to blood heat), ounce by ounce, to form a smooth and uniform cream. When 40 ounces of water have been so incorporated, dissolve any essential oils desired as perfume in the spirit, and add the cherry-laurel water, making up to 48 ounces with plain water.
Rouges And Paints:
Grease Paints.
White Grease Paints.—
| I.— | Prepared chalk | 4 av. ounces |
|---|---|---|
| Zinc oxide | 4 av. ounces | |
| Bismuth subnitrate | 4 av. ounces | |
| Asbestos powder | 4 av. ounces | |
| Sweet almond oil, about | 2 1/2 fluidounces | |
| Camphor | 40 grains | |
| Oil peppermint | 3 fluidrachms | |
| Esobouquet extract | 3 fluidrachms |
Sufficient almond oil should be used to form a mass of proper consistence.
| II.— | Zinc oxide. | 8 parts |
|---|---|---|
| Bismuth subnitrate | 8 parts | |
| Aluminum oxychloride | 8 parts | |
| Almond oil, quantity sufficient, or 5–6 parts. | ||
| Perfume, quantity sufficient. | ||
Mix the zinc, bismuth, and aluminum oxychloride thoroughly; make into a paste with the oil. Any perfume may be added, but that generally used is composed of 1 drachm of essence of bouquet, 12 grains of camphor, and 12 minims of oil of peppermint for every 3 1/2 ounces of paste.
Bright Red.—
| Zinc oxide | 10 parts |
| Bismuth subnitrate | 10 parts |
| Aluminum oxychloride | 10 parts |
| Almond oil, quantity sufficient. |
Mix the zinc, bismuth, and aluminum salts, and to every 4 ounces of the mixture add 2 1/4 grains of eosine dissolved in a drachm of essence of bouquet, 12 minims oil of peppermint, and 12 grains of camphor. Make the whole into a paste with almond oil.
Red.—
| Cacao butter | 4 av. ounces |
| White wax | 4 av. ounces |
| Olive oil | 2 fluidounces |
| Oil of rose | 8 drops |
| Oil of bergamot | 3 drops |
| Oil of neroli | 2 drops |
| Tincture musk | 2 drops |
| Carmine | 90 grains |
| Ammonia water | 3 fluidrachms |
Deep, Or Bordeaux, Red.—
| Zinc oxide | 30 parts |
| Bismuth subnitrate | 30 parts |
| Aluminum oxychloride | 30 parts |
| Carmine | 1 part |
| Ammonia water | 5 parts |
| Essence bouquet | 3 parts |
| Peppermint, camphor, etc., quantity sufficient. | |
Mix the zinc, bismuth, and aluminum salts. Dissolve the carmine in the ammonia and add solution to the mixture. Add 24 grains of camphor, and 24 minims of oil of peppermint dissolved in the essence bouquet, and make the whole into a paste with oil of sweet almonds.
Vermilion.—
| Vermilion | 18 parts |
| Tincture of saffron | 12 parts |
| Orris root, powdered | 30 parts |
| Chalk, precipitated | 120 parts |
| Zinc oxide | 120 parts |
| Camphor | 2 parts |
| Essence bouquet | 9 parts |
| Oil of peppermint | 2 parts |
| Almond oil, quantity sufficient. |
Mix as before.
Pink.—
| Zinc carbonate | 250 parts |
| Bismuth subnitrate | 250 parts |
| Asbestos | 250 parts |
| Expressed oil of almonds | 100 parts |
| Camphor | 55 parts |
| Oil of peppermint | 55 parts |
| Perfume | 25 parts |
| Eosine | 1 part |
Dark Red.
Rouge.—
| Zinc oxide. | 2 1/2 ounces |
| Bismuth subnitrate | 2 1/2 ounces |
| Aluminum plumbate | 2 1/2 ounces |
| Eosine | 1 drachm |
| Essence bouquet | 2 drachms |
| Camphor | 6 drachms |
| Oil of peppermint | 20 minims |
| Almond oil, quantity sufficient. |
Dissolve the eosine in the essence bouquet, and mix with the camphor and peppermint; add the powder and make into a paste with almond oil.
Black Grease Paints.—
| I.— | Soot | 2 av. ounces |
|---|---|---|
| Sweet almond oil | 2 fluidounces | |
| Cacao butter | 6 av. ounces | |
| Perfume, sufficient. |
{230}
The soot should be derived from burning camphor and repeatedly washed with alcohol. It should be triturated to a smooth mixture with the oil; then add to the melted cacao butter; add the perfume, and form into sticks.
Brown or other colors may be obtained by adding appropriate pigments, such as finely levigated burned umber, sienna, ocher, jeweler’s rouge, etc., to the foregoing base instead of lampblack.
| II.— | Best lampblack | 1 drachm |
|---|---|---|
| Cacao butter | 3 drachms | |
| Olive oil | 3 drachms | |
| Oil of neroli | 2 drops |
Melt the cacao butter and oil, add the lampblack, and stir constantly as the mixture cools, adding the perfume toward the end.
| III.— | Lampblack | 1 part |
|---|---|---|
| Cacao butter | 6 parts | |
| Oil neroli, sufficient. |
Melt the cacao butter and the lampblack, and while cooling make an intimate mixture, adding the perfume toward the last.
| IV.— | Lampblack. | 1 part |
|---|---|---|
| Expressed oil of almonds | 1 part | |
| Oil cocoanut | 1 part | |
| Perfume, sufficient. |
Beat the lampblack into a stiff paste with glycerine. Apply with a sponge; if necessary, mix a little water with it when using.
V.—Beat the finest lampblack into a stiff paste with glycerine and apply with a sponge; if necessary, add a little water to the mixture when using. Or you can make a grease paint as follows: Drop black, 2 drachms; almond oil, 2 drachms; cocoanut oil, 6 drachms; oil of lemon, 5 minims; oil of neroli, 1 minim. Mix.
Fatty Face Powders.
Dissolve 1 drachm anhydrous lanolin in 2 drachms of ether in a mortar. Add 3 drachms of light magnesia. Mix well, dry, and then add the following: French chalk, 2 ounces; powdered starch, 1 1/2 ounces; boric acid, 1 drachm; perfume, a sufficient quantity. A good perfume is coumarin, 2 grains, and attar of rose, 2 minims.
Nose Putty.
II.—White wax, 8 parts; rosin, white, 8 parts; mutton suet, 4 parts; color to suit. Melt together.
Rose Powder.
Rouge Tablets.
| Ammonium carminate | 10 parts |
| Talc, in powder | 25 parts |
| Dextrin | 8 parts |
| Simple syrup, sufficient. | |
| Perfume, to taste, sufficient. |
Mix the talc and dextrin and add the perfume, preferably in the shape of an essential oil (attar of rose, synthetic oil of jasmine, or violet, etc.), using 6 to 8 drops to every 4 ounces of other ingredients. Incorporate the ammonium carminate and add just enough simple syrup to make a mass easily rolled out. Cut into tablets of the desired size. The ammonium carminate is made by adding 1 part of carmine to 2 1/2 parts of strong ammonia water. Mix in a vial, cork tightly, and set aside until a solution is formed, shaking occasionally. The ammonium carminate is made by dissolving carmine in ammonia water to saturation.
Rouge Palettes.
| Carmine | 9 parts |
| French chalk | 50 parts |
| Almond oil | 12 parts |
Add enough tragacanth mucilage to make the mass adhere and spread the whole evenly on the porcelain palette.
Liquid Rouge.—
| I.— | Carmine | 4 parts |
|---|---|---|
| Stronger ammonia water | 4 parts | |
| Essence of rose | 16 parts | |
| Rose water to make. | 500 parts |
Mix. A very delightful violet odor, if this is preferred, is obtained by using ionone in place of rose essence. A cheaper preparation may be made as follows: {231}
| II.— | Eosine | 1 part |
|---|---|---|
| Distilled water | 20 parts | |
| Glycerine | 5 parts | |
| Cologne water | 75 parts | |
| Alcohol | 100 parts |
Mix.
Rub together with 10 parts of almond oil and add sufficient mucilage of tragacanth to make the mass adhere to the porcelain palette.
| III.— | Carmine | 1 part |
|---|---|---|
| Stronger ammonia water | 1 part | |
| Attar of rose | 4 parts | |
| Rose water | 125 parts |
Mix. Any other color may be used in place of rose, violet (ionone), for instance, or heliotrope. A cheaper preparation may be made by substituting eosine for the carmine, as follows:
| IV.— | Eosine | 1 part |
|---|---|---|
| Distilled water | 20 parts | |
| Glycerine | 5 parts | |
| Cologne water | 75 parts | |
| Alcohol | 100 parts |
Mix.
Peach Tint.—
| a.— | Buffalo eosine | 4 drachms |
|---|---|---|
| Distilled water | 16 fluidounces | |
| Mix. | ||
| b.— | Pure hydrochloric acid | 2 1/2 drachms |
| Distilled water | 64 fluidounces | |
| Mix. |
Pour a into b, shake, and set aside for a few hours; then pour off the clear portion and collect the precipitate on a filter. Wash with the same amount of b and immediately throw the precipitate into a glass measure, stirring in with a glass rod sufficient of b to measure 16 ounces in all. Pass through a hair sieve to get out any filtering paper. To every 16 ounces add 8 ounces of glycerine.
Theater Rouge.
| Cornstarch | 4 drachms |
| Powdered white talcum | 6 drachms |
Mix.
| a.— | Carminoline | 10 grains |
|---|---|---|
| Base | 6 drachms | |
| Water | 4 drachms |
Dissolve the carminoline in the water, mix with the base and dry.
| b.— | Geranium red | 10 grains |
|---|---|---|
| Base | 6 drachms | |
| Water | 4 drachms |
Mix as above and dry.
Skin Foods.
Wrinkles on the face yield to a wash consisting of 50 parts milk of almonds (made with rose water) and 4 parts aluminum sulphate. Use morning and night.
Rough skin is to be washed constantly in Vichy water. Besides this, rough places are to have the following application twice daily—either a few drops of:
| I.— | Rose water | 100 parts |
|---|---|---|
| Glycerine | 25 parts | |
| Tannin | 3/4 part | |
| Mix. Or use: | ||
| II.— | Orange-flower water | 100 parts |
| Glycerine | 10 parts | |
| Borax | 2 parts | |
| Mix. Sig.: Apply twice daily. |
“Beauty Cream.”
| Alum, powdered | 10 grams |
| Whites of | 2 eggs |
| Boric acid | 3 grams |
| Tincture of benzoin | 40 drops |
| Olive oil | 40 drops |
| Mucilage of acacia | 5 drops |
| Rice flour, quantity sufficient. | |
| Perfume, quantity sufficient. |
Mix the alum and the white of eggs, without any addition of water whatever, in an earthen vessel, and dissolve the alum by the aid of very gentle heat (derived from a lamp, or gaslight, regulated to a very small flame), and constant, even, stirring. This must continue until the aqueous content of the albumen is completely driven off. Care must be taken to avoid coagulation of the albumen (which occurs very easily, as all know). Let the mass obtained in this manner get completely cold, then throw into a Wedgwood mortar, add the boric acid, tincture of benzoin, oil, mucilage (instead of which a solution of fine gelatin may be used), etc., and rub up together, thickening it with the addition of sufficient rice flour to give the desired consistence, and perfuming at will. Instead of olive oil any pure fat, or fatty oil, may be used, even vaseline or glycerine.
Face Bleach Or Beautifier.—
| Syrupy lactic acid | 40 ounces |
| Glycerine | 80 ounces |
| Distilled water | 5 gallons |
| Mix. Gradually add | |
| Tincture of benzoin | 3 ounces |
| Color by adding | |
| Carmine No. 40 | 40 grains |
| Glycerine | 1 ounce |
| Ammonia solution | 1/2 ounce |
| Water to | 3 ounces |
| Heat this to drive off the ammonia, and mix all. Shake, set aside; then filter, and add | |
| Solution of ionone | 1 drachm |
| Add a few drachms of kaolin and filter until bright. | |
Blackhead Remedies.
| I.— | Lactic acid | 1 drachm |
|---|---|---|
| Boric acid | 1 drachm | |
| Ceresine | 1 drachm | |
| Paraffine oil | 6 drachms | |
| Hydrous wool fat | 1 1/2 ounces | |
| Castor oil | 6 drachms |
II.—Unna advises hydrogen dioxide in the treatment of blackheads, his prescription being:
| Hydrogen dioxide | 20 to 40 parts | |
| Hydrous wool fat | 10 parts | |
| Petrolatum | 30 parts | |
| III.— | Thymol | 1 part |
| Boric acid | 2 parts | |
| Tincture of witch-hazel | 18 parts | |
| Rose water sufficient to make | 200 parts |
Mix. Apply to the face night and morning with a sponge, first washing the face with hot water and castile soap, and drying it with a coarse towel, using force enough to start the dried secretions. An excellent plan is to steam the face by holding it over a basin of hot water, keeping the head covered with a cloth.
| IV.— | Ichthyol | 1 drachm |
|---|---|---|
| Zinc oxide | 2 drachms | |
| Starch | 2 drachms | |
| Petrolatum | 3 drachms |
This paste should be applied at night. The face should first be thoroughly steamed or washed in water as hot as can be comfortably borne. All pustules should then be opened and blackheads emptied with as little violence as possible. After careful drying the paste should be thoroughly rubbed into the affected areas. In the morning, after removing the paste with a bland soap, bathe with cool water and dry with little friction.
Hand Creams And Lotions:
Chapped Skin.—
| I.— | Glycerine | 8 parts |
|---|---|---|
| Bay rum | 4 parts | |
| Ammonia water | 4 parts | |
| Rose water | 4 parts |
Mix the bay rum and glycerine, add the ammonia water, and finally the rose water. It is especially efficacious after shaving.
II.—As glycerine is bad for the skin of many people, here is a recipe which will be found more generally satisfactory as it contains less glycerine: Bay rum, 3 ounces; glycerine, 1 ounce; carbolic acid, 1/2 drachm (30 drops). Wash the hands well and apply while hands are soft, preferably just before going to bed. Rub in thoroughly. This rarely fails to cure the worst “chaps” in two nights.
III.—A sure remedy for chapped hands consists in keeping them carefully dry and greasing them now and then with an anhydrous fat (not cold cream). The best substances for the purpose are unguentum cereum or oleum olivarum.
If the skin of the hands is already cracked the following preparation will heal it:
Finely ground zinc oxide, 5.0 parts; bismuth oxychloride, 2.0 parts; with fat oil, 12.0 parts; next add glycerine, 5.0 parts; lanolin, 30.0 parts; and scent with rose water, 10.0 parts.
IV.—Wax salve (olive oil 7 parts, and yellow wax 3 parts), or pure olive oil.
Hand-cleaning Paste.
A good paste may be made by dissolving soap in the least possible quantity of hot water, and as it cools and sets stirring in the grit. A good formula is:
| White soap | 2 1/2 pounds |
| Fine sand | 1 pound |
| Water | 5 1/2 pints |
Lotion For The Hands.—
| Boric acid | 1 drachm |
| Glycerine | 6 drachms |
| Dissolve by heat and mix with | |
| Lanolin | 6 drachms |
| Vaseline | 1 ounce |
Add any perfume desired. The borated glycerine should be cooled before mixing it with the lanolin.
Cosmetic Jelly.—
| Tragacanth (white ribbon) | 60 grains |
| Rose water | 14 ounces |
Macerate for two days and strain forcibly through coarse muslin or cheese {233} cloth. Add glycerine and alcohol, of each 1 ounce. Perfume to suit. Use immediately after bathing, rubbing in well until dry.
Perspiring Hands.
II.—Rub the hands several times per day with the following mixture:
| By weight | |
|---|---|
| Rose water | 125 parts |
| Borax | 10 parts |
| Glycerine | 8 parts |
Hand Bleach.
For the removal of developing stains, see Photography.
Massage Creams:
Massage Application.—
White potash soap, shaved 20 parts Glycerine 30 parts Water 30 parts Alcohol (90 per cent) 10 parts
Dissolve the soap by heating it with the glycerine and water, mixed. Add the alcohol, and for every 30 ounces of the solution add 5 or 6 drops of the mistura oleoso balsamica, German Pharmacopœia. Filter while hot.
Medicated Massage Balls.
Casein Massage Cream.
| Skimmed milk | 1 gallon |
| Water of ammonia | 1 ounce |
| Acetic acid | 1 ounce |
| Oil of rose geranium | 1 drachm |
| Oil of bitter almond | 1 drachm |
| Oil of anise | 2 drachms |
| Cold cream (see below), enough. | |
| Carmine enough to color. |
Add the water of ammonia to the milk and let it stand 24 hours. Then add the acetic acid and let it stand another 24 hours. Then strain through cheese cloth and add the oils. Work this thoroughly in a Wedgwood mortar, adding enough carmine to color it a delicate pink. To the product thus obtained add an equal amount of cold cream made by the formula herewith given:
| White wax | 4 ounces |
| Spermaceti | 4 ounces |
| White petrolatum | 12 ounces |
| Rose water | 14 ounces |
| Borax | 80 grains |
Melt the wax, spermaceti, and petrolatum together over a water bath; dissolve the borax in the rose water and add to the melted mass at one time. Agitate violently. Presumably the borax solution should be of the same temperature as the melted mass.
Massage Skin Foods.—
This preparation is used in massage for removing wrinkles:
| I.— | White wax | 1/2 ounce |
|---|---|---|
| Spermaceti | 1/2 ounce | |
| Cocoanut oil | 1 ounce | |
| Lanolin | 1 ounce | |
| Oil of sweet almonds | 2 ounces | |
| Melt in a porcelain dish, remove from the fire, and add | ||
| Orange-flower water | 1 ounce | |
| Tincture of benzoin | 3 drops | |
| Beat briskly until creamy. | ||
| II.— | Snow-white cold cream | 4 ounces |
| Lanolin | 4 ounces | |
| Oil of Theobroma | 4 ounces | |
| White petrolatum oil | 4 ounces | |
| Distilled water | 4 ounces | |
| In hot weather add | ||
| Spermaceti | 1 1/2 drachms | |
| White wax | 2 1/2 drachms | |
{234}
In winter the two latter are left out and the proportion of cocoa butter is modified. Prepared and perfumed in proportion same as cold cream.
| III.— | White petrolatum | 7 av. ounces |
|---|---|---|
| Paraffine wax | 1/2 ounce | |
| Lanolin | 2 av. ounces | |
| Water | 3 fluidounces | |
| Oil of rose | 3 drops | |
| Vanillin | 2 grains | |
| Alcohol | 1 fluidrachm |
Melt the paraffine, add the lanolin and petrolatum, and when these have melted pour the mixture into a warm mortar, and, with constant stirring, incorporate the water. When nearly cold add the oil and vanillin, dissolved in the alcohol.
Preparations of this kind should be rubbed into the skin vigorously, as friction assists the absorbed fat in developing the muscles, and also imparts softness and fullness to the skin.
Skin Bleaches, Balms, Lotions, Etc.:
See also Cleaning Methods and Photography for removal of stains caused by photographic developers.
Astringent Wash For Flabby Skin.
| Cucumber juice | 1 1/2 ounces |
| Tincture of benzoin | 1/2 ounce |
| Cologne | 1 ounce |
| Elder-flower water | 5 ounces |
Put the tincture of benzoin in an 8-ounce bottle, add the other ingredients, previously mixed, and shake slightly. There will be some precipitation of benzoin in this mixture, but it will settle out, or it may be strained out through cheese cloth.
Bleaching Skin Salves.
| I.— | Lanolin | 30 parts |
|---|---|---|
| Bitter almond oil | 10 parts | |
| Mix and stir with this salve base a solution of | ||
| Borax | 1 part | |
| Glycerine | 15 parts | |
| Hydrogen peroxide | 15 parts | |
For impure skin the following composition is recommended:
| II.— | White mercurial ointment | 5 grams |
|---|---|---|
| Zinc ointment | 5 grams | |
| Lanolin | 30 grams | |
| Bitter almond oil | 10 grams | |
| And gradually stir into this a solution of | ||
| Borax | 2 grams | |
| Glycerine | 30 grams | |
| Rose water | 10 grams | |
| Concentrated nitric acid | 5 drops | |
| III.— | Lanolin | 30 grams |
| Oil sweet almond | 10 grams | |
| Borax | 1 gram | |
| Glycerine | 15 grams | |
| Solution hydrogen peroxide | 15 grams | |
Mix the lanolin and oil, then incorporate the borax previously dissolved in the mixture of glycerine and peroxide solution.
| IV.— | Ointment ammoniac mercury | 5 grams |
|---|---|---|
| Ointment zinc oxide | 5 grams | |
| Lanolin | 30 grams | |
| Oil sweet almond | 10 grams | |
| Borax | 2 grams | |
| Glycerine | 30 grams | |
| Rose water | 10 grams | |
| Nitric acid, C. P. | 5 drops |
Prepare in a similar manner as the foregoing. Rose oil in either ointment makes a good perfume. Both ointments may, of course, be employed as a general skin bleach, which, in fact, is their real office—cosmetic creams.
Emollient Skin Balm.—
| Quince seed | 1 ounce |
| Water | 7 ounces |
| Glycerine | 1 1/2 ounces |
| Alcohol | 4 1/2 ounces |
| Salicylic acid | 6 grains |
| Carbolic acid | 10 grains |
| Oil of bay | 10 drops |
| Oil of cloves | 5 drops |
| Oil of orange peel | 10 drops |
| Oil of wintergreen | 8 drops |
| Oil of rose | 2 drops |
Digest the quince seed in the water for 24 hours, and then press through a cloth; dissolve the salicylic acid in the alcohol; add the carbolic acid to the glycerine; put all together, shake well, and bottle.
Skin Lotion.—
| Zinc sulphocarbolate | 30 grains |
| Alcohol (90 per cent) | 4 fluidrachms |
| Glycerine | 2 fluidrachms |
| Tincture of cochineal | 1 fluidrachm |
| Orange-flower water | 1 1/2 fluidounces |
| Rose water (triple) to make | 6 fluidounces |
{235}
Skin Discoloration.
Detergent For Skin Stains.
If an extra detergent quality is desired, 4 ounces of sodium carbonate may be added, and the quantity of soap may be reduced. Paste thus made will attack grease, etc., more readily, but it is harder on the skin.
Removing Inground Dirt.—
| Egg albumen | 8 parts |
| Boric acid | 1 part |
| Glycerine | 32 parts |
| Perfume to suit. | |
| Distilled water to make | 50 parts |
Dissolve the boric acid in a sufficient quantity of water; mix the albumen and glycerine and pass through a silk strainer. Finally, mix the two fluids and add the residue of water.
Every time the hands are washed, dry on a towel, and then moisten them lightly but thoroughly with the liquid, and dry on a soft towel without rubbing. At night, on retiring, apply the mixture and wipe slightly or just enough to take up superfluous liquid; or, better still, sleep in a pair of cotton gloves.
Toilet Creams:
Almond Cold Creams.
| I.— | Sweet almonds | 5 ounces |
|---|---|---|
| White castile soap | 2 drachms | |
| White wax | 2 drachms | |
| Spermaceti | 2 drachms | |
| Oil of bitter almonds | 10 minims | |
| Oil of bergamot | 20 minims | |
| Alcohol | 6 fluidounces | |
| Water, a sufficient quantity. |
Beat the almonds in a smooth mortar until as much divided as their nature will admit; then gradually add water in very small quantities, continuing the beating until a smooth paste is obtained; add to this, gradually, one pint of water, stirring well all the time. Strain the resulting emulsion without pressure through a cotton cloth previously well washed to remove all foreign matter. If new, the cloth will contain starch, etc., which must be removed. Add, through the strainer, enough water to bring the measure of the strained liquid to 1 pint. While this operation is going on let the soap be shaved into thin ribbons, and melted, with enough water to cover it, over a very gentle fire or on a water bath. When fluid add the wax and spermaceti in large pieces, so as to allow them to melt slowly, and thereby better effect union with the soap. Stir occasionally. When all is melted place the soapy mixture in a mortar, run into it slowly the emulsion, blending the two all the while with the pestle. Care must be taken not to add the emulsion faster than it can be incorporated with the soap. Lastly add the alcohol in which the perfumes have been previously dissolved, in the same manner, using great care.
This preparation is troublesome to make and rather expensive, and it is perhaps no better for the purpose than glycerine. The mistake is often made of applying the latter too freely, its “stickiness” being unpleasant, and it is {236} best to dilute it largely with water. Such a lotion may be made by mixing
| Glycerine | 1 part |
| Rose water | 9 parts |
Plain water may, of course, be used as the diluent, but a slightly perfumed preparation is generally considered more desirable. The perfume may easily be obtained by dissolving a very small proportion of handkerchief “extract” or some essential oil in the glycerine, and then mixing with plain water.
| II.— | White wax | 1/4 ounce |
|---|---|---|
| Spermaceti | 2 1/2 ounces | |
| Oil of sweet almonds | 2 1/2 ounces | |
| Melt, remove from the fire, and add | ||
| Rose water | 1 1/2 ounces | |
Beat until creamy: not until cold. When the cream begins to thicken add a few drops of oil of rose. Only the finest almond oil should be used. Be careful in weighing the wax and spermaceti. These precautions will insure a good product.
| III.— | White wax | 4 ounces |
|---|---|---|
| Spermaceti | 3 ounces | |
| Sweet almond oil | 6 fluidounces | |
| Glycerine | 4 fluidounces | |
| Oil of rose geranium | 1 fluidrachm | |
| Tincture of benzoin | 4 fluidrachms |
Melt the wax and spermaceti, add the oil of sweet almonds, then beat in the glycerine, tincture of benzoin, and oil of rose geranium. When all are incorporated to a smooth, creamy mass, pour into molds.
| IV.— | Sweet almonds, blanched | 5 ounces |
|---|---|---|
| Castile soap, white | 120 grains | |
| White wax | 120 grains | |
| Spermaceti | 120 grains | |
| Oil of bitter almonds | 10 drops | |
| Oil of bergamot | 20 drops | |
| Alcohol | 6 fluidounces | |
| Water, sufficient. |
Make an emulsion of the almonds with water so as to obtain 16 fluidounces of product, straining through cotton which has previously been washed to remove starch. Dissolve the soap with the aid of heat in the necessary amount of water to form a liquid, add the wax and spermaceti, continue the heat until the latter is melted, transfer to a mortar, and incorporate the almond emulsion slowly with constant stirring until all has been added and a smooth cream has been formed. Finally, add the two volatile oils.
V.—Melt, at moderate heat,
| By weight. | |
|---|---|
| White wax | 100 parts |
| Spermaceti | 1,000 parts |
| Then stir in | |
| Almond oil | 500 parts |
| Rose water | 260 parts |
| And scent with | |
| Bergamot oil | 10 parts |
| Geranium oil | 5 parts |
| Lemon oil | 4 parts |
| By weight. | ||
|---|---|---|
| VI.— | Castor oil | 500 parts |
| White wax | 100 parts | |
| Almond oil | 150 parts | |
| Melt at moderate heat and scent with | ||
| Geranium oil | 6 parts | |
| Lemon oil | 5 parts | |
| Bergamot oil | 10 parts | |
| VII.— | Almond oil | 400 parts |
| Lanoline | 200 parts | |
| White wax | 60 parts | |
| Spermaceti | 60 parts | |
| Rose water | 300 parts | |
| VIII.— | White wax | 6 parts |
| Tallow, freshly tried out | 4 parts | |
| Spermaceti | 2 parts | |
| Oil of sweet almonds | 6 parts | |
Melt together and while still hot add, with constant stirring, 1 part of sodium carbonate dissolved in 79 parts of hot water. Stir until cold. Perfume to the taste.
| IX.— | Ointment of rose water | 1 ounce |
|---|---|---|
| Oil of sweet almonds. | 1 fluidounce | |
| Glycerine | 1 fluidounce | |
| Boric acid | 100 grains | |
| Solution of soda | 2 1/4 fluidounces | |
| Mucilage of quince seed. | 4 fluidounces | |
| Water enough to make | 40 fluidounces | |
| Oil of rose, oil of bitter almonds, of each sufficient to perfume. | ||
Heat the ointment, oil, and solution of soda together, stirring constantly until an emulsion or saponaceous mixture is {237} formed. Then warm together the glycerine, acid, and mucilage and about 30 fluidounces of water; mix with the emulsion, stir until cold, and add the remainder of the water. Lastly, add the volatile oils.
The rose-water ointment used should be the “cold cream” of the United States Pharmacopœia.
| X.— | Spermaceti | 2 ounces |
|---|---|---|
| White wax | 2 ounces | |
| Sweet almond oil | 14 fluidounces | |
| Water, distilled | 7 fluidounces | |
| Borax, powder | 60 grains | |
| Coumarin | 1/2 grain | |
| Oil of bergamot | 24 drops | |
| Oil of rose | 6 drops | |
| Oil of bitter almonds | 8 drops | |
| Tincture of ambergris | 5 drops |
Melt the spermaceti and wax, add the sweet almond oil, incorporate the water in which the borax has previously been dissolved, and finally add the oils of bergamot, rose, and bitter almond.
| XI.— | Honey | 2 av. ounces |
|---|---|---|
| Castile soap, white powder | 1 av. ounce | |
| Oil sweet almonds | 26 fluidounces | |
| Oil bitter almonds | 1 fluidrachm | |
| Oil bergamot | 1/2 fluidrachm | |
| Oil cloves | 15 drops | |
| Peru balsam | 1 fluidrachm | |
| Liquor potassa. Solution carmine, of each sufficient. | ||
Mix the honey with the soap in a mortar, and add enough liquor potassa (about 1 fluidrachm) to produce a nice cream. Mix the volatile oils and balsam with the sweet almond oil, mix this with the cream, and continue the trituration until thoroughly mixed. Finally add, if desired, enough carmine solution to impart a rose tint.
| XII.— | White wax | 800 parts |
|---|---|---|
| Spermaceti | 800 parts | |
| Sweet almond oil | 5,600 parts | |
| Distilled water | 2,800 parts | |
| Borax | 50 parts | |
| Bergamot oil | 20 parts | |
| Attar of rose | 5 parts | |
| Coumarin | 0.1 part |
Add for each pound of the cream 5 drops of etheric oil of bitter almonds, and 3 drops tincture of ambra. Proceed as in making cold cream.
The following also makes a fine cream:
| XIII.— | Spermaceti | 3 parts |
|---|---|---|
| White wax | 2 parts | |
| Oil of almonds, fresh | 12 parts | |
| Rose water, double | 1 part | |
| Glycerine, pure | 1 part |
Melt on a water bath the spermaceti and wax, add the oil (which should be fresh), and pour the whole into a slightly warmed mortar, under constant and lively stirring, to prevent granulation. Continue the trituration until the mass has a white, creamy appearance, and is about the consistence of butter at ordinary temperature. Add, little by little, under constant stirring, the orange-flower water and glycerine mixed, and finally the perfume as before. Continue the stirring for 15 or 20 minutes, then immediately put into containers.
Chappine Cream.—
| Quince seed | 2 drachms |
| Glycerine | 1 1/2 ounces |
| Water | 1 1/2 ounces |
| Lead acetate | 10 grains |
| Flavoring, sufficient. |
Macerate the quince seed in water, strain, add the glycerine and lead acetate, previously dissolved in sufficient water; flavor with jockey club or orange essence.
Cucumber Creams.—
| I.— | White wax | 3 ounces |
|---|---|---|
| Spermaceti | 3 ounces | |
| Benzoinated lard | 8 ounces | |
| Cucumbers | 3 ounces |
Melt together the wax, spermaceti, and lard, and infuse in the liquid the cucumbers previously grated. Allow to cool, stirring well; let stand a day, remelt, strain and again stir the “cream” until cold.
| II.— | Benzoinated lard | 5 ounces |
|---|---|---|
| Suet | 3 ounces | |
| Cucumber juice | 10 ounces | |
| Proceed as in making cold cream. | ||
Glycerine Creams.—
| I.— | Oil of sweet almonds | 100 parts |
|---|---|---|
| White wax | 13 parts | |
| Glycerine, pure | 25 parts | |
| Add a sufficient quantity of any suitable perfume. | ||
Melt, on the water bath, the oil, wax, and glycerine together, remove and as the mass cools down add the perfume in sufficient quantity to make a creamy mass. {238}
| II.— | Quince seed | 1 ounce |
|---|---|---|
| Boric acid | 16 grains | |
| Starch | 1 ounce | |
| Glycerine | 16 ounces | |
| Carbolic acid | 30 minims | |
| Alcohol | 12 ounces | |
| Oil of lavender | 30 minims | |
| Oil of rose | 10 drops | |
| Extract of white rose | 1 ounce | |
| Water enough to make | 64 ounces |
Dissolve the boric acid in a quart of water and in this solution macerate the quince seed for 3 hours; then strain. Heat together the starch and the glycerine until the starch granules are broken, and mix with this the carbolic acid. Dissolve the oils and the extract of rose in the alcohol, and add to the quince-seed mucilage; then mix all together, strain, and add water enough to make the product weigh 64 ounces.
| III.— | Glycerine | 1 ounce |
|---|---|---|
| Borax | 2 drachms | |
| Boracic acid | 1 drachm | |
| Oil rose geranium | 30 drops | |
| Oil bitter almond | 15 drops | |
| Milk | 1 gallon |
Heat the milk until it curdles and allow it to stand 12 hours. Strain it through cheese cloth and allow it to stand again for 12 hours. Mix in the salts and glycerine and triturate in a mortar, finally adding the odors and coloring if wanted. The curdled milk must be entirely free from water to avoid separation. If the milk will not curdle fast enough the addition of 1 ounce of water ammonia to a gallon will hasten it. Take a gallon of milk, add 1 ounce ammonia water, heat (not boil), allow to stand 24 hours, and no trouble will be found in forming a good base for the cream.
IV.—This is offered as a substitute for cucumber cream for toilet uses. Melt 15 parts, by weight, of gelatin in hot water containing 15 parts, by weight, of boracic acid as well as 150 parts, by weight, of glycerine; the total amount of water used should not exceed 300 parts, by weight. It may be perfumed or not.
Lanolin Creams.—
| I.— | Anhydrous lanolin | 650 parts |
|---|---|---|
| Peach-kernel oil | 200 parts | |
| Water | 150 parts |
Perfume with about 15 drops of ionone or 20 drops of synthetic ylang-ylang.
| II.— | Lanolin | 40 parts |
|---|---|---|
| Olive oil | 15 parts | |
| Paraffine ointment | 10 parts | |
| Aqua naphæ | 10 parts | |
| Distilled water | 15 parts | |
| Glycerine | 5 parts | |
| Boric acid | 4 parts | |
| Borax | 4 parts | |
| Geranium oil, sufficient. | ||
| Extract, triple, of ylang-ylang, quantity sufficient. | ||
| III.— | Anhydrous lanolin | 650 drachms |
| Almond oil | 200 drachms | |
| Water | 150 drachms | |
| Oil of ylang-ylang | 5 drops | |
Preparations which have been introduced years ago for the care of the skin and complexion are the glycerine gelées, which have the advantage over lanolin that they go further, but present the drawback of not being so quickly absorbed by the skin. These products are filled either into glasses or into tubes. The latter way is preferable and is more and more adopted, owing to the convenience of handling.
A good recipe for such a gelée is the following:
Moisten white tragacanth powder, 50 parts, with glycerine, 200 parts, and spirit of wine, 100 parts, and shake with a suitable amount of perfume; then quickly mix and shake with warm distilled water, 650 parts.
A transparent slime will form immediately which can be drawn off at once.
Mucilage Creams.—
| I.— | Starch | 30 parts |
|---|---|---|
| Carrageen mucilage | 480 parts | |
| Boric acid | 15 parts | |
| Glycerine | 240 parts | |
| Cologne water | 240 parts |
Boil the starch in the carrageen mucilage, add the boric acid and the glycerine. Let cool, and add the cologne water.
| II.— | Linseed mucilage | 240 parts |
|---|---|---|
| Boric acid | 2 parts | |
| Salicylic acid | 1.3 parts | |
| Glycerine | 60 parts | |
| Cologne water | 120 parts | |
| Rose water | 120 parts |
Instead of the cologne water any extracts may be used. Lilac and ylang-ylang are recommended.
Witch-hazel Creams.—
| I.— | Quince seed | 90 grains |
|---|---|---|
| Boric acid | 8 grains | |
| Glycerine | 4 fluidounces | |
| Alcohol | 6 fluidounces | |
| Carbolic acid | 6 drachms | |
| Cologne water | 4 fluidounces | |
| Oil lavender flowers | 40 drops | |
| Glycerite starch | 4 av. ounces | |
| Distilled witch-hazel extract enough to make | 32 fluidounces. |
Dissolve the boric acid in 16 ounces of the witch-hazel extract, macerate the quince seed in the solution for 3 hours, strain, add the glycerine, carbolic acid, and glycerite, and mix well. Mix the alcohol, cologne water, lavender oil, and mucilages, incorporate with the previous mixture, and add enough witch-hazel extract to bring to the measure of 32 fluidounces.
| II.— | Quince seed | 4 ounces |
|---|---|---|
| Hot water | 16 ounces | |
| Glycerine | 32 ounces | |
| Witch-hazel water | 128 ounces | |
| Boric acid | 6 ounces | |
| Rose extract | 2 ounces | |
| Violet extract | 1 ounce |
Macerate the quince seed in the hot water; add the glycerine and witch-hazel, in which the boric acid has been previously dissolved; let the mixture stand for 2 days, stirring occasionally; strain and add the perfume.
Skin Cream For Collapsible Tubes.—
| I.— | White vaseline | 6 ounces |
|---|---|---|
| White wax | 1 ounce | |
| Spermaceti | 5 drachms | |
| Subchloride bismuth | 6 drachms | |
| Attar of rose | 6 minims | |
| Oil of bitter almonds | 1 minim | |
| Rectified spirit | 1/2 ounce |
Melt the vaseline, wax, and spermaceti together, and while cooling incorporate the subchloride of bismuth (in warm mortar). Dissolve the oils in the alcohol, and add to the fatty mixture, stirring all until uniform and cold. In cold weather the quantities of wax and spermaceti may be reduced.
| II.— | Lanolin | 1 ounce |
|---|---|---|
| Almond oil | 1 ounce | |
| Oleate of zinc (powder) | 3 drachms | |
| Extract of white rose | 1 1/2 drachms | |
| Glycerine | 2 drachms | |
| Rose water | 2 drachms |
Face Cream Without Grease.—
| Quince seed | 10 parts |
| Boiling water | 1,000 parts |
| Borax | 5 parts |
| Boric acid | 5 parts |
| Glycerine | 100 parts |
| Alcohol, 94 per cent | 125 parts |
| Attar of rose, quantity sufficient to perfume. |
Macerate the quince seed in half of the boiling water, with frequent agitations, for 2 hours and 30 minutes, then strain off. In the residue of the boiling water dissolve the borax and boric acid, add the glycerine and the perfume, the latter dissolved in the alcohol. Now add, little by little, the colate of quince seed, under constant agitation, which should be kept up for 5 minutes after the last portion of the colate is added.
Toilet Milks:
Cucumber Milk.—
| Simple cerate | 2 pounds |
| Powdered borax | 11 1/2 ounces |
| Powdered castile soap | 10 ounces |
| Glycerine | 26 ounces |
| Alcohol | 24 ounces |
| Cucumber juice | 32 ounces |
| Water to | 5 gallons |
| Ionone | 1 drachm |
| Jasmine | 1/2 drachm |
| Neroli | 1/2 drachm |
| Rhodinol | 15 minims |
To the melted cerate in a hot water bath add the soap and stir well, keeping up the heat until perfectly mixed. Add 8 ounces of borax to 1 gallon of boiling water, and pour gradually into the hot melted soap and cerate; add the remainder of the borax and hot water, then the heated juice and glycerine, and lastly the alcohol. Shake well while cooling, set aside for 48 hours, and siphon off any water that may separate. Shake well, and repeat after standing again if necessary; then perfume.
Cucumber Juice.
Glycerine Milk.—
| Glycerine | 1,150 parts |
| Starch, powdered | 160 parts |
| Distilled water | 400 parts |
| Tincture of benzoin | 20 parts |
Rub up 80 parts of the starch with the glycerine, then put the mixture on the steam bath and heat, under continuous stirring, until it forms a jellylike mass. Remove from the bath and stir in the remainder of the starch. Finally, add the water and tincture and stir till homogeneous.
Lanolin Toilet Milk.—
| White castile soap, powdered | 22 grains |
| Lanolin | 1 ounce |
| Tincture benzoin | 12 drachms |
| Water, enough. |
{240}
Dissolve the soap in 2 fluidounces of warm water, also mix the lanolin with 2 fluidounces of warm water; then incorporate the two with each other, finally adding the tincture. The latter may be replaced by 90 grains of powdered borax.
Jasmine Milk.
Sunburn And Freckle Remedies.
I.—Apply over the affected skin a solution of corrosive sublimate, 1 in 500, or, if the patient can stand it, 1 in 300, morning and evening, and for the night apply emplastrum hydrargyri compositum to the spots. In the morning remove the plaster and all remnants of it by rubbing fresh butter or cold cream over the spots.
For redness of the skin apply each other day zinc oxide ointment or ointment of bismuth subnitrate.
II.—Besnier recommends removal of the mercurial ointment with green soap, and the use, at night, of an ointment composed of vaseline and Vigo’s plaster (emplastrum hydrargyri compositum), in equal parts. In the morning wash off with soap and warm water, and apply the following:
| Vaseline, white | 20 parts |
| Bismuth carbonate | 5 parts |
| Kaolin | 5 parts |
Mix, and make an ointment.
III.—Leloir has found the following of service. Clean the affected part with green soap or with alcohol, and then apply several coats of the following:
| Acid chrysophanic | 15 parts |
| Chloroform | 100 parts |
Mix. Apply with a camel’s-hair pencil.
When the application dries thoroughly, go over it with a layer of traumaticine. This application will loosen itself in several days, when the process should be repeated.
IV.—When the skin is only slightly discolored use a pomade of salicylic acid, or apply the following:
| Acid chrysophanic, from | 1 to 4 parts |
| Acid salicylic | 1 to 2 parts |
| Collodion | 40 parts |
V.—When there is need for a more complicated treatment, the following is used:
| (a) | Corrosive sublimate | 1 part |
|---|---|---|
| Orange-flower water | 7,500 parts | |
| Acid, hydrochloric, dilute | 500 parts | |
| (b) | Bitter almonds | 4,500 parts |
| Glycerine | 2,500 parts | |
| Orange-flower water | 25,000 parts |
Rub up to an emulsion in a porcelain capsule. Filter and add, drop by drop, and under constant stirring, 5 grams of tincture of benzoin. Finally mix the two solutions, adding the second to the first.
This preparation is applied with a sponge, on retiring, to the affected places, and allowed to dry on.
VI.—According to Brocq the following should be penciled over the affected spots:
| Fresh pure milk | 50 parts |
| Glycerine | 30 parts |
| Acid, hydrochloric, concentrated | 5 parts |
| Ammonium chlorate | 3 parts |
VII.—Other external remedies that may be used are lactic acid diluted with 3 volumes of water, applied with a glass rod; dilute nitric acid, and, finally, peroxide of hydrogen, which last is a very powerful agent. Should it cause too much inflammation, the latter may be assuaged by using an ointment of zinc oxide or bismuth subnitrate—or one may use the following:
| Kaolin | 4 parts |
| Vaseline | 10 parts |
| Glycerine | 4 parts |
| Magnesium carbonate | 2 parts |
| Zinc oxide | 2 parts |
Freckle Remedies.—
| I.— | Poppy oil | 1 part |
|---|---|---|
| Lead acetate | 2 parts | |
| Tincture benzoin | 1 part | |
| Tincture quillaia | 5 parts | |
| Spirit nitrous ether | 1 part | |
| Rose water | 95 parts |
Saponify the oil with the lead acetate; add the rose water, and follow with the tinctures.
| II.— | Chloral hydrate | 2 drachms |
|---|---|---|
| Carbolic acid | 1 drachm | |
| Tincture iodine | 60 drops | |
| Glycerine | 1 ounce |
Mix and dissolve. Apply with a camel’s-hair pencil at night.
| III.— | Distilled vinegar | 660 parts |
|---|---|---|
| Lemons, cut in small pieces | 135 parts | |
| Alcohol, 85 per cent | 88 parts | |
| Lavender oil | 23 parts | |
| Water | 88 parts | |
| Citron oil | 6 parts |
This mixture is allowed to stand for 3 or 4 days in the sun and filtered. Coat, by means of a sponge before retiring, the places of the skin where the freckles are and allow to dry.
Freckles And Liver Spots.
There are many such methods, and especially to be mentioned is that of Unna, who uses resorcin for the purpose. Lassar makes use of a paste of naphthol and sulphur.
Sunburn Remedies.—
| I.— | Zinc sulphocarbolate | 1 part |
|---|---|---|
| Glycerine. | 20 parts | |
| Rose water | 70 parts | |
| Alcohol, 90 per cent | 8 parts | |
| Cologne water | 1 part | |
| Spirit of camphor | 1 part | |
| II.— | Borax | 4 parts |
| Potassium chlorate | 2 parts | |
| Glycerine | 10 parts | |
| Alcohol | 4 parts | |
| Rose water to make | 90 parts | |
| III.— | Citric acid | 2 drachms |
| Ferrous sulphate (cryst.) | 18 grains | |
| Camphor | 2 grains | |
| Elder-flower water | 3 fluidounces | |
| IV.— | Potassium carbonate | 3 parts |
| Sodium chloride | 2 parts | |
| Orange-flower water | 15 parts | |
| Rose water | 65 parts | |
| V.— | Boroglycerine, 50 per cent | 1 part |
| Ointment of rose water | 9 parts | |
| VI.— | Sodium bicarbonate | 1 part |
| Ointment of rose water | 7 parts | |
| VII.— | Bicarbonate of soda | 2 drachms |
| Powdered borax | 1 drachm | |
| Compound tincture of lavender | 1 1/2 drachms | |
| Glycerine | 1 ounce | |
| Rose water | 4 ounces |
Dissolve the soda and borax in the glycerine and rose water, and add the tincture. Apply with a small piece of sponge 2 or 3 times a day. Then gently dry by dabbing with a soft towel.
| VIII.— | Quince seeds | 2 drachms |
|---|---|---|
| Distilled water | 10 ounces | |
| Glycerine | 2 ounces | |
| Alcohol, 94 per cent | 1 ounce | |
| Rose water | 2 ounces |
Boil the seeds in the water for 10 minutes, then strain off the liquid, and when cold add to it the glycerine, alcohol, and rose water.
| IX.— | White soft soap | 2 1/2 drachms |
|---|---|---|
| Glycerine | 1 1/2 drachms | |
| Almond oil | 11 drachms |
Well mix the glycerine and soap in a mortar, and very gradually add the oil, stirring constantly until perfectly mixed.
| X.— | Subnitrate of bismuth | 1 1/2 drachms |
|---|---|---|
| Powdered French chalk | 30 grains | |
| Glycerine | 2 drachms | |
| Rose water | 1 1/2 ounces |
Mix the powders, and rub down carefully with the glycerine; then add the rose water. Shake the bottle before use.
| XI.— | Glycerine cream | 2 drachms |
|---|---|---|
| Jordan almonds | 4 drachms | |
| Rose water | 5 ounces | |
| Essential oil of almonds | 3 drops |
Blanch the almonds, and then dry and beat them up into a perfectly smooth paste; then mix in the glycerine cream and essential oil. Gradually add the rose water, stirring well after each addition; then strain through muslin.
Tan And Freckle Lotion.—
Solution A:
Potassium iodide, iodine, glycerine, and infusion rose.
Dissolve the potassium iodide in a {242} small quantity of the infusion and a drachm of the glycerine; with this fluid moisten the iodine in a glass of water and rub it down, gradually adding more liquid, until complete solution has been obtained; then stir in the remainder of the ingredients, and bottle the mixture.
Solution B:
Sodium thiosulphate and rose water. With a small camel’s-hair pencil or piece of fine sponge apply a little of solution A to the tanned or freckled surface, until a slight or tolerably uniform brownish yellow skin has been produced. At the expiration of 15 or 20 minutes moisten a piece of cambric, lint, or soft rag with B and lay it upon the affected part, removing, squeezing away the liquid, soaking it afresh, and again applying until the iodine stain has disappeared. Repeat the process thrice daily, but diminish the frequency of application if tenderness be produced.
A Cure For Tan.
Improved Carron Oil.
| Linseed oil | 2 ounces |
| Limewater | 2 ounces |
| Paraffine, liquid | 1 ounce |
Mix the linseed oil and water, and add the paraffine. Shake well before using.
Liver Spots.
| I.— | Corrosive sublimate | 1 part |
|---|---|---|
| White sugar | 190 parts | |
| White of egg | 34 parts | |
| Lemon juice | 275 parts | |
| Water to make | 2,500 parts |
Mix the sublimate, sugar, and albumen intimately, then add the lemon juice and water. Dissolve, shake well, and after standing an hour, filter. Apply in the morning after the usual ablutions, and let dry on the face.
II.—Bichloride of mercury, in coarse powder, 8 grains; witch-hazel, 2 ounces; rose water, 2 ounces.
Agitate until a solution is obtained. Mop over the affected parts. Keep out of the way of ignorant persons and children.
Toilet Powders:
Almond Powders For The Toilet.—
| I.— | Almond meal | 6,000 parts |
|---|---|---|
| Bran meal | 3,000 parts | |
| Soap powder | 600 parts | |
| Bergamot oil | 50 parts | |
| Lemon oil | 15 parts | |
| Clove oil | 15 parts | |
| Neroli oil | 6 parts | |
| II.— | Almond meal | 7,000 parts |
| Bran meal | 2,000 parts | |
| Violet root | 900 parts | |
| Borax | 350 parts | |
| Bitter almond oil | 18 parts | |
| Palmarosa oil | 36 parts | |
| Bergamot oil | 10 parts | |
| III.— | Almond meal | 3,000 parts |
| Bran meal | 3,000 parts | |
| Wheat flour | 3,000 parts | |
| Sand | 100 parts | |
| Lemon oil | 40 parts | |
| Bitter almond oil | 10 parts |
Bath Powder.—
| Borax | 4 ounces |
| Salicylic acid | 1 drachm |
| Extract of cassia | 1 drachm |
| Extract of jasmine | 1 drachm |
| Oil of lavender | 20 minims |
Rub the oil and extracts with the borax and salicylic acid until the alcohol has evaporated. Use a heaping teaspoonful to the body bath.
Brunette Or Rachelle.—
| Base | 9 pounds |
| Powdered Florentine orris | 1 pound |
| Perfume the same. | |
| Powdered yellow ocher . . . (av.) 3 ounces 120 grains | |
| Carmine No. 40 | 60 grains |
Rub down the carmine and ocher with alcohol in a mortar, and spread on glass to dry; then mix and sift.
Violet Poudre De Riz.—
| I.— | Cornstarch | 7 pounds |
|---|---|---|
| Rice flour | 1 pound | |
| Powdered talc | 1 pound | |
| Powdered orris root | 1 pound | |
| Extract of cassia | 3 ounces | |
| Extract of jasmine | 1 ounce |
{243}
II.—Cheaper.
| Potato starch | 8 pounds |
| Powdered talc | 1 pound |
| Powdered orris | 1 pound |
| Extract of cassia | 3 ounces |
Barber’s Powder.—
| Cornstarch | 5 pounds |
| Precipitated chalk | 3 pounds |
| Powdered talc | 2 pounds |
| Oil of neroli | 1 drachm |
| Oil of cedrat | 1 drachm |
| Oil of orange | 2 drachms |
| Extract of jasmine | 1 ounce |
Rose Poudre De Riz.—
| I.— | Cornstarch | 9 pounds |
|---|---|---|
| Powdered talc | 1 pound | |
| Oil of rose | 1 1/4 drachms | |
| Extract of jasmine | 6 drachms | |
| II.— | Potato starch | 9 pounds |
| Powdered talc | 1 pound | |
| Oil of rose | 1/2 drachm | |
| Extract of jasmine | 1/2 ounce |
Ideal Cosmetic Powder.
| Zinc, white | 50 parts |
| Calcium carbonate, precipitated | 300 parts |
| Steatite, best white | 50 parts |
| Starch, wheat, or rice | 100 parts |
| Extract white rose, triple | 3 parts |
| Extract jasmine, triple | 3 parts |
| Extract orange flower, triple | 3 parts |
| Extract of cassia, triple | 3 parts |
| Tincture of myrrh | 1 part |
Powder the solids and mix thoroughly by repeated siftings.
Flesh Face Powder.—
| Base | 9 pounds |
| Powdered Florentine orris | 1 pound |
| Carmine No. 40 | 250 grains |
| Extract of jasmine | 100 minims |
| Oil of neroli | 20 minims |
| Vanillin | 5 grains |
| Artificial musk | 30 grains |
| White heliotropin | 30 grains |
| Coumarin | 1 grain |
Rub the carmine with a portion of the base and alcohol in a mortar, mixing the perfume the same way in another large mortar, and adding the orris. Mix and sift all until specks of carmine disappear on rubbing.
White Face Powder.—
| Base | 9 pounds |
| Powdered Florentine orris | 1 pound |
Perfume the same. Mix and sift.
Talcum Powders.
The following formulas for other varieties of the powder may prove useful:
Violet Talc.—
| I.— | Powdered talc | 14 ounces |
|---|---|---|
| Powdered orris root | 2 ounces | |
| Extract of cassia | 1/2 ounce | |
| Extract of jasmine | 1/4 ounce |
Rose Talc.—
| II.— | Powdered talc | 5 pounds |
|---|---|---|
| Oil of rose | 1/2 drachm | |
| Extract of jasmine | 4 ounces |
Tea-Rose Talc.—
| III.— | Powdered talc | 5 pounds |
|---|---|---|
| Oil of rose | 50 drops | |
| Oil of wintergreen | 4 drops | |
| Extract of jasmine | 2 ounces |
Borated Apple Blossom.—
| IV.— | Powdered talc | 22 pounds |
|---|---|---|
| Magnesium carbonate | 2 3/4 pounds | |
| Powdered boric acid | 1 pound | |
| Mix. | ||
| Carnation pink blossom (Schimmel’s) | 2 ounces | |
| Extract of trefle | 2 drachms | |
| To 12 drachms of this mixture add: | ||
| Neroli | 1 drachm | |
| Vanillin | 1/2 drachm | |
| Alcohol to | 3 ounces | |
| Sufficient for 25 pounds. | ||
| V.— | Talcum | 8 ounces |
|---|---|---|
| Starch | 8 ounces | |
| Oil of neroli | 10 drops | |
| Oil of ylang-ylang | 5 drops | |
| VI.— | Talcum | 12 ounces |
| Starch | 4 ounces | |
| Orris root | 2 ounces | |
| Oil of bergamot | 12 drops | |
| VII.— | Talcum | 14 ounces |
| Starch | 2 ounces | |
| Lanolin | 1/2 ounce | |
| Oil of rose | 10 drops | |
| Oil of neroli | 5 drops |
Toilet Vinegars:
Pumillo Toilet Vinegar.—
| Alcohol, 80 per cent | 1,600 parts |
| Vinegar, 10 per cent | 840 parts |
| Oil of pinu spumillo | 44 parts |
| Oil of lavender | 4 parts |
| Oil of lemon | 2 parts |
| Oil of bergamot | 2 parts |
Dissolve the oils in the alcohol, add the vinegar, let stand for a week and filter.
Vinaigre Rouge.—
| Acetic acid | 24 parts |
| Alum | 3 parts |
| Peru balsam | 1 part |
| Carmine, No. 40 | 12 parts |
| Ammonia water | 6 parts |
| Rose water, distilled | 575 parts |
| Alcohol | 1,250 parts |
Dissolve the balsam of Peru in the alcohol, and the alum in the rose water. Mix the two solutions, add the acetic acid, and let stand overnight. Dissolve the carmine in the ammonia water and add to mixture. Shake thoroughly, let stand for a few minutes, then decant.
Toilet Waters:
“Beauty Water.”—
| Fresh egg albumen | 500 parts |
| Alcohol | 125 parts |
| Lemon oil | 2 parts |
| Lavender oil | 2 parts |
| Oil of thyme | 2 parts |
Mix the ingredients well together. When first mixed the liquid becomes flocculent, but after standing for 2 or 3 days clears up—sometimes becomes perfectly clear, and may be decanted. It forms a light, amber-colored liquid that remains clear for months.
At night, before retiring, pour about a teaspoonful of the water in the palm of the hand, and rub it over the face and neck, letting it dry on. In the morning, about an hour before the bath, repeat the operation, also letting the liquid dry on the skin. The regular use of this preparation for 4 weeks will give the skin an extraordinary fineness, clearness, and freshness.
Rottmanner’s Beauty Water.
Birch Waters.
| I.— | Alcohol, 96 per cent | 3,500 parts |
|---|---|---|
| Water | 700 parts | |
| Potash soap | 200 parts | |
| Glycerine | 150 parts | |
| Oil of birch buds | 50 parts | |
| Essence of spring flowers | 100 parts | |
| Chlorophyll, quantity sufficient to color. | ||
Mix the water with 700 parts of the alcohol, and in the mixture dissolve the soap. Add the essence of spring flowers and birch oil to the remainder of the alcohol, mix well, and to the mixture add, little by little, and with constant agitation, the soap mixture. Finally, add the glycerine, mix thoroughly, and set aside for 8 days, filter and color the filtrate with chlorophyll, to which is added a little tincture of saffron. To use, add an equal volume of water to produce a lather.
| II.— | Alcohol, 96 per cent | 2,000 parts |
|---|---|---|
| Water | 500 parts | |
| Tincture of cantharides | 25 parts | |
| Salicylic acid | 25 parts | |
| Glycerine | 100 parts | |
| Oil of birch buds | 40 parts | |
| Bergamot oil | 30 parts | |
| Geranium oil | 5 parts |
Dissolve the oils in the alcohol, add the acid and tincture of cantharides; mix the water and glycerine and add, and, finally, color as before.
| III.— | Alcohol | 30,000 parts |
|---|---|---|
| Birch juice | 3,000 parts | |
| Glycerine | 1,000 parts | |
| Bergamot oil | 90 parts | |
| Vanillin | 10 parts | |
| Geranium oil | 50 parts | |
| Water | 14,000 parts | |
| IV.— | Alcohol | 40,000 parts |
| Oil of birch | 150 parts | |
| Bergamot oil | 100 parts | |
| Lemon oil | 50 parts | |
| Palmarosa oil | 100 parts | |
| Glycerine | 2,000 parts | |
| Borax | 150 parts | |
| Water | 20,000 parts |
Violet Ammonia Water.
I.—Moisten coarsely powdered ammonium carbonate, contained in a suitable bottle, with a mixture of concentrated tincture of orris root, 2 1/2 ounces; aromatic spirit of ammonia, 1 drachm; violet extract, 3 drachms.
II.—Fill suitable bottles with coarsely powdered ammonium carbonate and add to the salt as much of the following solution as it will absorb: Oil of orris, 5 minims; oil of lavender flowers, 10 minims; violet extract, 30 minims; stronger water of ammonia, 2 fluidounces.
III.—The following is a formula for a liquid preparation: Extract violet, 8 fluidrachms; extract cassia, 8 fluidrachms; spirit of rose, 4 fluidrachms; tincture of orris, 4 fluidrachms; cologne spirit, 1 pint; spirit of ammonia, 1 ounce. Spirit of ionone may be used instead of extract of violet.
Violet Witch-hazel.—
| Spirit of ionone | 1/2 drachm |
| Rose water | 6 ounces |
| Distilled extract of witch-hazel enough to make | 16 ounces |