HAIR PREPARATIONS

Dandruff Cures.

The treatment of that condition of the scalp which is productive of dandruff properly falls to the physician, but unfortunately the subject has not been much studied. One cure is said to be a sulphur lotion made by placing a little sublimed sulphur in water, shaking well, then allowing to settle, and washing the head every morning with the clear liquid.

Sulphur is said to be insoluble in water; yet a sulphur water made as above indicated has long been in use as a hair wash. A little glycerine improves the preparation, preventing the hair from becoming harsh by repeated washings.

The exfoliated particles of skin or “scales” should be removed only when entirely detached from the cuticle. They result from an irritation which is increased by forcible removal, and hence endeavors to clean the hair from them by combing or brushing it in such a way as to scrape the scalp are liable to be worse than useless. It follows that gentle handling of the hair is important when dandruff is present. {389}

I.—	Chloral hydrate	2 ounces
	Resorcin	1 ounce
	Tannin	1 ounce
	Alcohol	8 ounces
	Glycerine	4 ounces
	Rose water to make	4 pints
II.—	White wax	3 ¹/₂ drachms
	Liquid petrolatum	2 ¹/₂ ounces
	Rose water	1 ounce
	Borax	15 grains
	Precipitated sulphur	3 ¹/₂ drachms

Pine-Tar Dandruff Shampoo.—

Pine tar	4 parts
Linseed oil	40 parts

Heat these to 140° F.; make solution of potassa, U. S. P., 10 parts, and water, 45 parts; add alcohol, 5 parts, and gradually add to the heated oils, stirring constantly. Continue the heat until saponified thoroughly; and make up with water to 128 parts. When almost cool, add ol. lavender, ol. orange, and ol. bergamot, of each 2 parts.

Hair-curling Liquids.

It is impossible to render straight hair curly without the aid of the iron or paper and other curlers. But it is possible, on the other hand, to make artificial curls more durable and proof against outside influences, such as especially dampness of the air. Below are trustworthy recipes:

	I	II
Water	70	80
Spirit of wine	30	20
Borax	2	—
Tincture of benzoin	—	3
Perfume	ad. lib.	ad. lib.

Hair Dressings And Washes:

Dressings for the Hair.—

I.—	Oil of wintergreen.	20 drops
	Oil of almond, essential	35 drops
	Oil of rose, ethereal	1 drop
	Oil of violets	30 drops
	Tincture of cantharides	50 drops
	Almond oil	2,000 drops

Mix.

Hair Embrocation.—

II.—	Almond oil, sweet	280 parts
	Spirit of sal ammoniac	280 parts
	Spirit of rosemary	840 parts
	Honey water	840 parts

Mix. Rub the scalp with it every morning by means of a sponge.

Hair Restorer.—

III.—	Tincture of cantharides	7 parts
	Gall tincture	7 parts
	Musk essence	1 part
	Carmine	0.5 part
	Rectified spirit of wine	28 parts
	Rose water	140 parts

To be used at night.

Rosemary Water.—

IV.—	Rosemary oil	1 ¹/₂ parts
	Rectified spirit of wine	7 parts
	Magnesia	7 parts
	Distilled water	1,000 parts

Mix the oil with the spirit of wine and rub up with the magnesia in a mortar; gradually add the water and finally filter.

Foamy Scalp Wash.—Mix 2 parts of soap spirit, 1 part of borax-glycerine (1+2), 6 parts of barium, and 7 parts of orange-flower water.

Lanolin Hair Wash.—Extract 4 parts quillaia bark with 36 parts water for several days, mix the percolate with 4 parts alcohol, and filter after having settled. Agitate 40 parts of the filtrate at a temperature at which wool grease becomes liquid, with 12 parts anhydrous lanolin, and fill up with water to which 15 per cent spirit of wine has been added, to 300 parts. Admixture, such as cinchona extract, Peru balsam, quinine, tincture of cantharides, bay-oil, ammonium carbonate, menthol, etc., may be made. The result is a yellowish-white, milky liquid, with a cream-like fat layer floating on the top, which is finely distributed by agitating.

Birch Water.—Birch water, which has many cosmetic applications, especially as a hair wash or an ingredient in hair washes, may be prepared as follows:

Alcohol, 96 per cent	3,500 parts
Water	700 parts
Potash soap	200 parts
Glycerine	150 parts
Oil of birch buds	50 parts
Essence of spring flowers	100 parts
Chlorophyll, q. s. to color.

Mix the water with 700 parts of the alcohol, and in the mixture dissolve the soap. Add the essence of spring flowers and birch oil to the remainder of the alcohol, mix well, and to the mixture add, little by little, and with constant agitation, the soap mixture. Finally {390} add the glycerine, mix thoroughly, and set aside for 8 days, filter and color the filtrate with chlorophyll, to which add a little tincture of saffron. To use, add an equal volume of water to produce a lather.

Petroleum Hair Washes.—I.—Deodorized pale petroleum, 10 parts; citronella oil, 10 parts; castor oil, 5 parts; spirit of wine, 90 per cent, 50 parts; water, 75 parts.

II.—Quinine sulphate, 10 parts; acetic acid, 4 parts; tincture of cantharides, 30 parts; tincture of quinine, 3 parts; spirit of rosemary, 60 parts; balm water, 90 parts; barium, 120 parts; spirit of wine, 150 parts; water, 1,000 parts.

III.—Very pure petroleum, 1 part; almond oil, 2 parts.

Brilliantine.—I.—Olive oil, 4 parts; glycerine, 3 parts; alcohol, 3 parts; scent as desired. Shake before use.

II.—Castor oil, 1 part; alcohol, 2 parts; saffron to dye yellow. Scent as desired.

III.—Lard, 7 parts; spermaceti, 7 parts; almond oil, 7 parts; white wax, 1 part.

A Cheap Hair Oil.—I.—Sesame oil or sunflower oil, 1,000 parts; lavender oil, 15 parts; bergamot oil, 10 parts; and geranium oil, 5 parts.

II.—Sesame oil or sunflower oil, 1,000 parts; lavender oil, 12 parts; lemon oil, 20 parts; rosemary oil, 5 parts; and geranium oil, 2 parts.

Hair Dyes.

There is no hair dye which produces a durable coloration; the color becomes gradually weaker in the course of time. Here are some typical formulas in which a mordant is employed:

I.—

Nitrate of silver	¹/₂ ounce
Distilled water	3 ounces

Mordant:

Sulphuret of potassium	¹/₂ ounce
Distilled water	3 ounces

II.—

(a)	Nitrate of silver (crystal)	1 ¹/₂ ounces
	Distilled water	12 ounces
	Ammonia water sufficient to make a clear solution.
Dissolve the nitrate of silver in the water and add the ammonia water until the precipitate is redissolved.
(b)	Pyrogallic acid	2 drachms
	Gallic acid	2 drachms
	Cologne water	2 ounces
	Distilled water	4 ounces

III.—

Nitrate of silver	20 grains
Sulphate of copper	2 grains
Ammonia, quantity sufficient.

Dissolve the salts in ¹/₂ ounce of water and add ammonia until the precipitate which is formed is redissolved, Then make up to 1 ounce with water. Apply to the hair with a brush. This solution slowly gives a brown shade. For darker shades, apply a second solution, composed of:

IV.—	Yellow sulphide ammonium	2 drachms
	Solution of ammonia	1 drachm
	Distilled water	1 ounce

Black Hair Dye without Silver.—

V.—	Pyrogallic acid	3.5 parts
	Citric acid	0.3 parts
	Boro-glycerine	11 parts
	Water	100 parts

If the dye does not impart the desired intensity of color, the amount of pyrogallic acid may be increased. The wash is applied evenings, followed in the morning by a weak ammoniacal wash.

One Bottle Preparation.—

VI.—	Nitrate of copper	360 grains
	Nitrate of silver	7 ounces
	Distilled water	60 ounces
	Water of ammonia, a sufficiency.

Dissolve the salts in the water and add the water of ammonia carefully until the precipitate is all redissolved. This solution, properly applied, is said to produce a very black color; a lighter shade is secured by diluting the solution. Copper sulphate may be used instead of the nitrate.

Brown Hair Dyes.—A large excess of ammonia tends to produce a brownish dye. Various shades of brown may be produced by increasing the amount of water in the silver solution. It should be remembered that the hair must, previously to treatment, be washed with warm water containing sodium carbonate, well rinsed with clear water, and dried.

I.—	Silver nitrate	480 grains
	Copper nitrate	90 grains
	Distilled water	8 fluidounces
	Ammonia water, sufficient.

Dissolve the two salts in the distilled water and add the ammonia water until the liquid becomes a clear fluid.

In using apply to the hair carefully {391} with a tooth-brush, after thoroughly cleansing the hair, and expose the latter to the rays of the sun.

II.—	Silver nitrate	30 parts
	Copper sulphate, crystals	20 parts
	Citric acid	20 parts
	Distilled water	950 parts
	Ammonia water, quantity sufficient to dissolve the precipitate first formed.

Various shades of brown may be produced by properly diluting the solution before it be applied.

Bismuth subnitrate	200 grains
Water	2 fluidounces
Nitric acid, sufficient to dissolve, or about	420 grains

Use heat to effect solution. Also:

Tartaric acid	150 grains
Sodium bicarbonate	168 grains
Water	32 fluidounces

When effervescence of the latter has ceased, mix the cold liquids by pouring the latter into the former with constant stirring. Allow the precipitate to subside; transfer it to a filter or strainer, and wash with water until free from the sodium nitrate formed.

Chestnut Hair Dye.—

Bismuth nitrate	230 grains
Tartaric acid	75 grains
Water	100 minims

Dissolve the acid in the water, and to the solution add the bismuth nitrate and stir until dissolved. Pour the resulting solution into 1 pint of water and collect the magma on a filter. Remove all traces of acid from the magma by repeated washings with water; then dissolve it in:

Ammonia water	2 fluidrachms
And add:
Glycerine	20 minims
Sodium hyposulphite	75 grains
Water, enough to make	4 fluidounces.

Hair Restorers And Tonics:

Falling Of The Hair.

Salicylic acid	1 part
Precipitate of sulphur	2 ¹/₂ parts
Rose water	25 parts

The patient is directed to part the hair, and then to rub in a small portion of the ointment along the part, working it well into the scalp. Then another part is made parallel to the first, and more ointment rubbed in. Thus a series of first, longitudinal, and then transverse parts are made, until the whole scalp has been well anointed. Done in this way, it is not necessary to smear up the whole shaft of the hair, but only to reach the hair roots and the sebaceous glands, where the trouble is located. This process is thoroughly performed for six successive nights, and the seventh night another shampoo is taken. The eighth night the inunctions are commenced again, and this is continued for six weeks. In almost every case the production of dandruff is checked completely after six weeks’ treatment, and the hair, which may have been falling out rapidly before, begins to take firmer root. To be sure, many hairs which are on the point of falling when treatment is begun will fall anyway, and it may even seem for a time as if the treatment were increasing the hair-fall, on account of the mechanical dislodgment of such hairs, but this need never alarm one.

After six weeks of such treatment the shampoo may be taken less frequently.

Next to dandruff, perhaps, the most common cause of early loss of hair is heredity. In some families all of the male members, or all who resemble one particular ancestor, lose their hair early. Dark-haired families and races, as a rule, become bald earlier than those with light hair. At first thought it would seem as though nothing could be done to prevent premature baldness when heredity is the cause, but this is a mistake. Careful hygiene of the scalp will often counterbalance hereditary predisposition for a number of years, and even after the hair has actually begun to fall proper stimulation will, to a certain extent, and for a limited time, often restore to the hair its pristine thickness and strength. Any of the rubefacients may be prescribed for this purpose for daily use, such as croton oil, 1 ¹/₂ per cent; tincture of cantharides, 15 per cent; oil of cinnamon, 40 per cent; tincture of capsicum, 15 per cent; oil of mustard, 1 per cent; or any one of a dozen others. Tincture of capsicum is one of the best, and for a routine prescription the following has served well:

Resorcin	5 parts
Tincture capsicum	15 parts
Castor oil	10 parts
Alcohol	100 parts
Oil of roses, sufficient.

{392}

It is to be recommended that the stimulant be changed from time to time, so as not to rely on any one to the exclusion of others. Jaborandi, oxygen gas, quinine, and other agents have enjoyed a great reputation as hair-producers for a time, and have then taken their proper position as aids, but not specifics, in restoring the hair.

It is well known that after many fevers, especially those accompanied by great depression, such as pneumonia, typhoid, puerperal, or scarlet fever, the hair is liable to fall out. This is brought about in a variety of ways: In scarlatina, the hair papilla shares in the general desquamation; in typhoid and the other fevers the baldness may be the result either of the excessive seborrhea, which often accompanies these diseases, or may be caused by the general lowering of nutrition of the body. Unless the hair-fall be accompanied by considerable dandruff (in which case the above-mentioned treatment should be vigorously employed), the ordinary hygiene of the scalp will result in a restoration of the hair in most cases, but the employment of moderate local stimulation, with the use of good general tonics, will hasten this end. It seems unwise to cut the hair of women short in these cases, because the baldness is practically never complete, and a certain proportion of the hairs will retain firm root. These may be augmented by a switch made of the hair which has fallen out, until the new hair shall have grown long enough to do up well. In this way all of that oftentimes most annoying short-hair period is avoided.

For Falling Hair.—

I.—	Hydrochloric acid	75 parts
I.—	Alcohol	2,250 parts

The lotion is to be applied to the scalp every evening at bedtime.

II.—	Tincture of cinchona	1 part
	Tincture of rosemary	1 part
	Tincture of jaborandi	1 part
	Castor oil	2 parts
	Rum	10 parts

Mix.

Jaborandi Scalp Waters for Increasing the Growth of Hair.

I.—Jaborandi tincture, 1,000 parts: spirit, 95 per cent, 700 parts; water, 300 parts; glycerine, 150 parts; scent essence, 100 parts; color with sugar color.

II.—Jaborandi tincture, 1,000 parts: spirit, 95 per cent, 1,500 parts; quinine tannate, 4 parts; Peru balsam, 20 parts; essence heliotrope, 50 parts. Dissolve the quinine and the Peru balsam in the spirit and then add the jaborandi tincture and the heliotrope essence. Filter after a week. Rub into the scalp twice a week before retiring.

Pomades:

I.—Cinchona Pomade.—

Ox marrow	100 drachms
Lard	70 drachms
Sweet almond oil	17 drachms
Peru balsam	1 drachm
Quinine sulphate	1 drachm
Clover oil	2 drachms
Rose essence	25 drops

II.—Cantharides Pomade.—

Ox marrow	300 drachms
White wax	30 drachms
Mace oil	1 drachm
Clove oil	1 drachm
Rose essence or geranium oil	25 drops
Tincture of cantharides	8 drachms

Pinaud Eau de Quinine.—The composition of this nostrum is not known. Dr. Tsheppe failed to find in it any constituent of cinchona bark. The absence of quinine from the mixture probably would not hurt it, as the “tonic” effect of quinine on the hair is generally regarded as a myth.

On the other hand, it has been stated that this preparation contains:

Quinine sulphate	2 parts
Tincture of krameria	4 parts
Tincture of cantharides	2 parts
Spirit of lavender	10 parts
Glycerine	15 parts
Alcohol	100 parts

Shampoos:

A Hair Shampoo is usually a tincture of odorless soft soap. It is mostly perfumed with lavender and colored with green aniline. Prepared the same as tr. sapon. virid. (U. S. P.), using an inexpensive soft soap, that is a good foam producer. Directions: Wet the hair well in warm water and rub in a few teaspoonfuls of the following formulas. No. I is considered the best: {393}

	I	II	III	IV
	Parts used
Cottonseed oil	—	24	26	14
Linseed oil	20	—	—	—
Malaga olive oil	20	—	—	—
Caustic potash	9 ¹/₂	8	6	3
Alcohol	5	4 ¹/₂	5	2
Water	30	26	34	16 ¹/₂

Warm the mixed oils on a large water bath, then the potash and water in another vessel, heating both to 158° F., and adding the latter hot solution to the hot oil while stirring briskly. Now add and thoroughly mix the alcohol. Stop stirring, keeping the heat at 158° F., until the mass becomes clear and a small quantity dissolves in boiling water without globules of oil separating. If stirred after the alcohol has been mixed the soap will be opaque. Set aside for a few days in a warm place before using to make liquid shampoo.

Liquid Shampoos.—

I.—	Fluid extract of soap-bark	10 parts
	Glycerine	5 parts
	Cologne water	10 parts
	Alcohol	20 parts
	Rose water	30 parts
II.—	Soft soap	24 parts
	Potassium carbonate	5 parts
	Alcohol	48 parts
	Water enough to make	400 parts

Shampoo Pastes.—

I.—	White castile soap, in shavings	2 ounces
	Ammonia water	2 fluidounces
	Bay rum, or cologne water	1 fluidounce
	Glycerine	1 fluidounce
	Water	12 fluidounces

Dissolve the soap in the water by means of heat; when nearly cold stir in the other ingredients.

II.—	Castile soap, white	4 ounces
	Potassium carbonate	1 ounce
	Water	6 fluidounces
	Glycerine	2 fluidounces
	Oil of lavender flowers	5 drops
	Oil of bergamot	10 drops

To the water add the soap, in shavings, and the potassium carbonate, and heat on a water bath until thoroughly softened; add the glycerine and oils. If necessary to reduce to proper consistency, more water may be added.

Egg Shampoo.—

Whites of	2 eggs
Water	5 fluidounces
Water of ammonia	3 fluidounces
Cologne water	¹/₃ fluidounce
Alcohol	4 fluidounces

Beat the egg whites to a froth, and add the other ingredients in the order in which they are named, with a thorough mixing after each addition.

Imitation Egg Shampoos.—Many of the egg shampoos are so called from their appearance. They usually contain no egg and are merely preparations of perfumed soft soap. Here are some formulas:

I.—	White castile soap	4 ounces
	Powdered curd soap	2 ounces
	Potassium carbonate	1 ounce
	Honey	1 ounce

Make a homogeneous paste by heating with water.

II.—Melt 3 ¹/₂ pounds of lard over a salt-water bath and run into it a lye formed by dissolving 8 ounces of caustic potassa in 1 ¹/₂ pints of water. Stir well until saponification is effected and perfume as desired.

HAIR REMOVERS: See Depilatories.

HAMBURG BITTERS: See Wines and Liquors.

HAMMER HARDENING: See Steel.

HAND CREAMS: See Cosmetics.

HANDS, TO REMOVE STAINS FROM THE: See Cleaning Preparations.

HARE-LIP OPERATION, ANTISEPTIC PASTE FOR: See Antiseptics.

HARNESS DRESSINGS AND PREPARATIONS: See Leather Dressings.

HARNESS WAX: See Waxes.

HAT-CLEANING COMPOUNDS: See Cleaning Compounds.

HAT WATERPROOFING: See Waterproofing. {394}