JEWELERS’ FORMULAS
(See also Gems, Gold, and Watchmakers’ Recipes.)
Coloring Gold Jewelry.
To Widen A Jewel Hole.
To Clean Jet Jewelry.
Coloring Common Gold.
Shades Of Red, Etc., On Matt Gold Bijouterie.
| I.— | Yellow wax | 32 parts |
|---|---|---|
| Red bole | 3 parts | |
| Crystallized verdigris | 2 parts | |
| Alum | 2 parts | |
| II.— | Yellow wax | 95 parts |
| Red bole | 64 parts | |
| Colcothar | 2 parts | |
| Crystallized verdigris | 32 parts | |
| Copper ashes | 20 parts | |
| Zinc vitriol | 32 parts | |
| Green vitriol | 16 parts | |
| Borax | 1 part |
The wax is melted and the finely powdered chemicals are stirred in, in rotation. If the gilt bronze goods are to obtain a lustrous orange shade, apply a mixture of ferric oxide, alum, cooking salt, and vinegar in the heated articles by means of a brush, heating to about 266° F. until the shade commences to turn black and water sprinkled on will evaporate with a hissing sound, then cool in water, dip in a mixture of 1 part of nitric acid with 40 parts of water, rinse {432} thoroughly, dry, and polish. For the production of a pale-gold shade use a wax preparation consisting of:
| III.— | Yellow wax | 19 parts |
|---|---|---|
| Zinc vitriol | 10 parts | |
| Burnt borax | 3 parts | |
| Green-gold color is produced by a mixture of: | ||
| IV.— | Saltpeter | 6 parts |
| Green vitriol | 2 parts | |
| Zinc vitriol | 1 part | |
| Alum | 1 part | |
To Matt Gilt Articles.
| Saltpeter | 40 parts |
| Alum | 25 parts |
| Cooking salt | 35 parts |
Heat the objects to about 608° F., whereby the powder is melted and acquires the consistency of a thin paste. In case of too high a temperature decomposition will set in.
To Find The Number Of Carats.
Acid Test For Gold.
Imitation Diamonds.
II.—Washed white sand, 100 parts (by weight): minium, 35 parts; calcined potash, 25 parts; calcined borax, 20 parts; nitrate of potash (crystals), 10 parts; peroxide of manganese, 5 parts. The sand must be washed as above stated.
Diamantine.
To Refine Board Sweepings.
Restoration Of The Color Of Turquoises.
Colorings For Jewelers’ Work.
II.—One hundred parts of calcium bromide and 2 parts of bromium. The objects are allowed to remain in this solution (which must be also constantly stirred) for from 2 to 3 minutes, then washed in a solution of sodium hyposulphite, after which they must be rinsed in clean water.
III.—Thirty parts of verdigris; 30 parts of sea salt; 30 parts of hematite; 30 parts of sal ammoniac, and 5 parts of alum. This must be all ground up together and mixed with strong vinegar; or we may also use 100 parts of verdigris; 100 parts of hydrochlorate of ammonia; 65 parts of saltpeter, and 40 parts of copper filings, all of which are to be well mixed with strong vinegar.
22-carat Solder.
| dwts. | grs. | |
|---|---|---|
| Fine gold | 1 | 0 |
| Fine silver | 0 | 3 |
| Fine copper | 0 | 2 |
| 1 | 5 |
This mixture will answer all the many purposes of the jobber; for soldering high quality gold wares that come for repairs, particularly wedding rings, it will be found admirably suited. If an easier solder is wanted, and such is very often the case with jobbing jewelers, especially where several solderings have to be accomplished, it is as well to have at hand a solder which will not disturb the previous soldering places, for if this is not prevented a very simple job is made very difficult, and a lot of time and patience wholly wasted. To guard against a thing of this kind the following solder may be employed on the top of the previous one:
| dwts. | grs. | |
|---|---|---|
| Fine gold | 1 | 0 |
| Fine silver | 0 | 3 |
| Yellow brass | 0 | 2 |
| 1 | 5 |
This solder is of the same value as the previous one, but its melting point is lower, and it will be found useful for many purposes that can be turned to good account in a jobbing jeweler’s business.
Jewelers’ Alloys:
See also Alloys and Solders.
18-carat Gold For Rings.
Cheap Gold, 12 Carat.
Very Cheap 4-carat Gold.
Imitations Of Gold.
II.—Platina, 2 parts; silver, 1 part; copper, 3 parts. These compositions, when properly prepared, so nearly resemble pure gold that it is very difficult to {434} distinguish them therefrom. A little powdered charcoal, mixed with metals while melting, will be found of service.
Best Oreide Of Gold.
Bushing Alloy For Pivot Holes, Etc.
Gold Solder For 14- to 16-carat Work.
Darker Solder.
Solder For Gold.
Soft Gold Solder.
Solders For Silver
White Solder For Silver.
Silver Solder For Plated Metal.
Solders For Gold.
II.—Gold, 2 parts; silver, 1 part; copper, 1 part.
III.—Gold, 3 parts; silver, 3 parts; copper, 1 part; zinc, 1/2 part.
For Silver.
Gold Solders
II.—Enamel Solder.—Copper, 25 parts; silver, 7.07 parts; gold, 67.93 parts.
III.—Copper, 26.55 parts; zinc, 6.25 parts; silver, 31.25 parts; gold, 36 parts.
IV.—Enamel Solder.—Silver, 19.57 parts; gold, 80.43 parts.
Solder For 22-carat Gold.
For 18-carat Gold.
For Cheaper Gold.
II.—Fine gold, 1 pennyweight; silver, 1 pennyweight; copper, 1 pennyweight.
Silver Solders
II.—Copper, 23.33 parts; zinc, 10 parts; silver, 66.67 parts.
III.—Copper, 26.66 parts; zinc, 10 parts; silver, 63.34 parts.
IV. (Soft.)—Copper, 14.75 parts; zinc, 8.50 parts; silver, 77.05 parts.
V.—Copper, 22.34 parts; zinc, 10.48 parts; silver, 67.18 parts.
VI.—Tin, 63 parts; lead, 37 parts.
For Silversmiths:
I.—Sterling Silver.—Fine silver, 11 ounces, 2 pennyweights; fine copper, 18 pennyweights.
II.—Equal to Sterling.—Fine silver, 1 ounce; fine copper, 1 pennyweight, 12 grains.
III.—Fine silver, 1 ounce; fine copper, 5 pennyweights.
IV.—Common Silver for Chains.—Fine silver, 6 pennyweights; fine copper, 4 pennyweights.
V.—Solder.—Fine silver, 16 pennyweights; fine copper, 12 grains; pin brass, 3 pennyweights, 12 grains.
VI.—Alloy for Plating.—Fine silver, 1 ounce; fine copper, 10 pennyweights.
VII.—Silver Solder.—Fine silver, 1 ounce; pin brass, 10 pennyweights; pure spelter, 2 pennyweights.
VIII.—Copper Solder for Plating.—Fine silver, 10 pennyweights; fine copper, 10 pennyweights.
IX.—Common Silver Solder.—Fine silver, 10 ounces; pin brass, 6 ounces, 12 pennyweights; spelter, 12 pennyweights.
X.—Silver Solder for Enameling.—Fine silver, 14 pennyweights; fine copper, 8 pennyweights.
XI.—For Filling Signet Rings.—Fine silver, 10 ounces; fine copper, 1 ounce, 16 pennyweights; fine pin brass, 6 ounces, 12 pennyweights; spelter, 12 pennyweights. {435}
XII.—Silver Solder for Gold Plating.—Fine silver, 1 ounce; fine copper, 5 pennyweights; pin brass, 5 pennyweights.
XIII.—Mercury Solder.—Fine silver, 1 ounce; pin brass, 10 pennyweights; bar tin, 2 pennyweights.
XIV.—Imitation Silver.—Fine silver, 1 ounce; nickel, 1 ounce, 11 grains; fine copper, 2 ounces, 9 grains.
XV.—Fine silver, 3 ounces; nickel, 1 ounce, 11 pennyweights; fine copper, 2 ounces, 9 grains; spelter, 10 pennyweights.
XVI.—Fine Silver Solder for Filigree Work.—Fine silver, 4 pennyweights, 6 grains; pin brass, 1 pennyweight.
Bismuth Solder.—Bismuth, 3 ounces; lead, 3 ounces, 18 pennyweights; tin, 5 ounces, 6 pennyweights.
Brass:
I.—Yellow Brass for Turning.—(Common article.)—Copper, 20 pounds; zinc, 10 pounds; lead, 4 ounces.
II.—Copper, 32 pounds; zinc, 10 pounds; lead, 1 pound.
III.—Red Brass Free, for Turning.—Copper, 100 pounds; zinc, 50 pounds; lead, 10 pounds; antimony, 44 ounces.
IV.—Best Red Brass for Fine Castings.—Copper, 24 pounds; zinc, 5 pounds; bismuth, 1 ounce.
V.—Red Tombac.—Copper, 10 pounds; zinc, 1 pound.
VI.—Tombac.—Copper, 16 pounds; tin, 1 pound; zinc, 1 pound.
VII.—Brass for Heavy Castings.—Copper, 6 to 7 parts; tin, 1 part; zinc, 1 part.
VIII.—Malleable Brass.—Copper, 70.10 parts; zinc, 29.90 parts.
IX.—Superior Malleable Brass.—Copper, 60 parts; zinc, 40 parts.
X.—Brass.—Copper, 73 parts; zinc, 27 parts.
XI.—Copper, 65 parts; zinc, 35 parts.
XII.—Copper, 70 parts; zinc, 30 parts.
XIII.—German Brass.—Copper, 1 pound; zinc, 1 pound.
XIV.—Watchmakers’ Brass.—Copper, 1 part; zinc, 2 parts.
XV.—Brass for Wire.—Copper, 34 parts; calamine, 56 parts.
XVI.—Brass for Tubes.—Copper, 2 parts; zinc, 1 part.
XVII.—Brass for Heavy Work.—Copper, 100 parts; tin, 15 parts; zinc, 15 parts.
XVIII.—Copper, 112 parts; tin, 13 parts; zinc, 1 part.
XIX.—Tombac or Red Brass.—Copper, 8 parts; zinc, 1 part.
XX.—Brass.—Copper, 3 parts; melt, then add zinc, 1 part.
XXI.—Buttonmakers’ Fine Brass.—Brass, 8 parts; zinc, 5 parts.
XXII.—Buttonmakers’ Common Brass.—Button brass, 6 parts; tin, 1 part; lead, 1 part. Mix.
XXIII.—Mallet’s Brass.—Copper, 25.4 parts; zinc, 74.6 parts. Used to preserve iron from oxidizing.
XXIV.—Best Brass for Clocks.—Rose copper, 85 parts; zinc, 14 parts; lead, 1 part.
Gold Alloys:
See also Gold Alloys, under Alloys.
Gold of 22 carats fine being so little used is intentionally omitted.
I.—Gold of 18 Carats, Yellow Tint.—Gold, 15 pennyweights; silver, 2 pennyweights, 18 grains; copper, 2 pennyweights, 6 grains.
II.—Gold of 18 Carats, Red Tint.—Gold, 15 pennyweights; silver, 1 pennyweight, 18 grains; copper, 3 pennyweights, 6 grains.
III.—Spring Gold of 16 Carats.—Gold, 1 ounce, 16 pennyweights; silver, 6 pennyweights; copper, 12 pennyweights. This when drawn or rolled very hard makes springs little inferior to steel.
IV.—Jewelers’ Fine Gold, Yellow Tint, 16 Carats Nearly.—Gold, 1 ounce; silver, 7 pennyweights; copper, 5 pennyweights.
V.—Gold of Red Tint, 16 Carats.—Gold, 1 ounce; silver, 2 pennyweights; copper, 8 pennyweights.
Sterling Gold Alloys.—I.—Fine gold, 18 pennyweights, 12 grains; fine silver, 1 pennyweight; fine copper, 12 grains.
II.—Dry Colored Gold Alloys, 17 Carat.—Fine gold, 15 pennyweights; fine silver, 1 pennyweight, 10 grains; fine copper, 4 pennyweights, 17 grains.
III.—18 Carat.—Fine gold, 1 ounce; fine silver, 4 pennyweights, 10 grains; fine copper, 2 pennyweights, 5 grains.
IV.—18 Carat.—Fine gold, 15 pennyweights; fine silver, 2 pennyweights, 4 grains; fine copper, 2 pennyweights, 19 grains.
V.—18 Carat.—Fine gold, 18 pennyweights; fine silver, 2 pennyweights, 18 {436} grains; fine copper, 3 pennyweights, 18 grains.
VI.—19 Carat.—Fine gold, 1 ounce; fine silver, 2 pennyweights, 6 grains; fine copper, 3 pennyweights, 12 grains.
VII.—20 Carat.—Fine gold, 1 ounce; fine silver, 2 pennyweights; fine copper, 2 pennyweights, 4 grains.
VIII.—22 Carat.—Fine gold, 18 pennyweights; fine silver, 12 grains; fine copper, 1 pennyweight, 3 grains.
IX.—Gold Solder for the Foregoing Alloys.—Take of the alloyed gold you are using, 1 pennyweight; fine silver, 6 grains.
X.—Alloy for Dry Colored Rings.—Fine gold, 1 ounce; fine silver, 4 pennyweights, 6 grains; fine copper, 4 pennyweights, 6 grains.
XI.—Solder.—Scrap gold, 2 ounces; fine silver, 3 pennyweights; fine copper, 3 pennyweights.
XII.—Dry Colored Scrap Reduced to 35s. Gold.—Colored scrap, 1 ounce, 9 pennyweights, 12 grains; fine silver, 2 pennyweights; fine copper, 17 pennyweights, 12 grains; spelter, 4 pennyweights.
To Quickly Remove A Ring From A Swollen Finger.
Soldering A Jeweled Ring.
JEWELRY, TO CLEAN: See Cleaning Preparations and Methods.