PERFUMES
Dry Perfumes:
Sachet Powders.—
| I.— | Orris root | 6 ounces |
|---|---|---|
| Lavender flowers | 2 ounces | |
| Talcum | 4 drachms | |
| Musk | 20 grains | |
| Terpinol | 60 grains | |
| II.— | Orange peel | 2 ounces |
| Orris root | 1 ounce | |
| Sandalwood | 4 drachms | |
| Tonka | 2 drachms | |
| Musk | 6 grains |
{510}
Lavender Sachets.—
| I.— | Lavender flowers | 16 ounces |
|---|---|---|
| Gum benzoin | 4 ounces | |
| Oil lavender | 2 drachms |
II.—Lavender flowers, 150 parts; orris root, 150 parts; benzoin, 150 parts; Tonka beans, 150 parts; cloves, 100 parts; “Neugenwerz,” 50 parts; sandalwood, 50 parts; cinnamon, 50 parts; vanilla, 50 parts; and musk, 1/2 part. All is bruised finely and mixed.
Violet Sachet.—
| Powdered orris root | 500 parts |
| Rice flour | 250 parts |
| Essence bouquet | 10 parts |
| Spring flowers extract | 10 parts |
| Violet extract | 20 parts |
| Oil of bergamot | 4 parts |
| Oil of rose | 2 parts |
Borated Talcum.—
| I.— | Purified talcum, N. F. | 2 pounds |
|---|---|---|
| Powdered boric acid | 1 ounce |
To perfume add the following:
| Powdered orris root | 1 1/2 ounces |
| Extract jasmine | 2 drachms |
| Extract musk | 1 drachm |
II.—A powder sometimes dispensed under this name is the salicylated powder of talcum of the National Formulary, which contains in every 1,000 parts 30 parts of salicylic acid and 100 parts of boric acid.
Rose.—
| I.— | Cornstarch | 9 pounds |
|---|---|---|
| Powdered talc | 1 pound | |
| Oil of rose | 80 drops | |
| Extract musk | 2 drachms | |
| Extract jasmine | 6 drachms | |
| II.— | Potato starch | 9 pounds |
| Powdered talc | 1 pound | |
| Oil rose | 45 drops | |
| Extract jasmine | 1/2 ounce |
Rose Talc.—
| I.— | Powdered talc | 5 pounds |
|---|---|---|
| Oil rose | 50 drops | |
| Oil wintergreen | 4 drops | |
| Extract jasmine | 2 ounces | |
| II.— | Powdered talc | 5 pounds |
| Oil rose | 32 drops | |
| Oil jasmine | 4 ounces | |
| Extract musk | 1 ounce |
Violet Talc.—
| I.— | Powdered talc | 14 ounces |
|---|---|---|
| Powdered orris root | 2 ounces | |
| Extract cassie | 1/2 ounce | |
| Extract jasmine | 1/4 ounce | |
| Extract musk | 1 drachm | |
| II.— | Starch | 5,000 parts |
| Orris root | 1,000 parts | |
| Oil of lemon | 14 parts | |
| Oil of bergamot | 14 parts | |
| Oil of clove | 4 parts |
Smelling Salts.
| II.— | Essential oil of lavender | 18 parts |
|---|---|---|
| Attar of rose | 2 parts | |
| Ammonium carbonate | 480 parts |
Violet Smelling Salts.
II.—Moisten the carbonate, and add as much of the following solution as it will absorb: Oil of orris, 5 minims; oil of lavender flowers, 10 minims; violet extract, 30 minims; stronger water of ammonia, 2 fluidounces.
To Scent Advertising Matter, Etc.
Another way of perfuming, which is used especially in France for scenting cards and other articles, is to dip them in very strong “extraits d’odeur,” leaving them therein for a few days. Then the cards are taken out and laid between filtering paper, whereupon they are pressed vigorously, which causes them not only to dry, but also to remain straight. They remain under strong pressure until completely dry.
Not all cardboard, however, can be subjected to this process, and in its choice one should consider the perfuming operation to be conducted. Nor can the cards be glazed, since spirit dissolves the glaze. It is also preferable to have lithographed text on them, since in the case of ordinary printing the letters often partly disappear or the colors are changed. {511}
For pocket calendars, price lists, and voluminous matter containing more leaves than one, another process is recommended. In a tight closet, which should be lined with tin, so that little air can enter, tables composed of laths are placed on which nets stretched on frames are laid. Cover these nets with tissue paper, and proceed as follows: On the bottom of the closet sprinkle a strongly odorous and reperfumed powder; then cover one net with the printed matter to be perfumed and shove it to the closet on the lath. The next net again receives powder, the following one printed matter, and so on until the closet is filled. After tightly closing the doors, the whole arrangement is left to itself. This process presents another advantage in that all sorts of residues may be employed for scenting, such as the filters of the odors and infusions, residues of musk, etc. These are simply laid on the nets, and will thus impart their perfume to the printed matter.
Such a scenting powder is produced as follows:
| By weight | |
|---|---|
| Iris powder, finely ground | 5,000 parts |
| Residues of musk | 1,000 parts |
| Ylang-ylang oil | 10 parts |
| Bergamot oil | 50 parts |
| Artificial musk | 2 parts |
| Ionone | 2 to 5 parts |
| Tincture of benzoin | 100 parts |
The powder may subsequently be employed for filling cheap sachets, etc.
Liquid Perfumes:
Coloring Perfumes.
Color imparted by chlorophyll will be found fairly permanent; this term is a relative one, and not too much must be expected. Colors which may suffer but little change by long exposure to diffused light may fade perceptibly by short exposure to the direct light of the sun.
Chlorophyll may be purchased or it may be prepared as follows: Digest leaves of grass, nettles, spinach, or other green herb in warm water until soft; pour off the water and crush the herb to a pulp. Boil the pulp for a short time with a half per cent solution of caustic soda, and afterwards precipitate the chlorophyll by means of dilute hydrochloric acid; wash the precipitate thoroughly with water, press and dry it, and use as much for the solution as may be necessary. Or a tincture made from grass as follows may be employed:
| Lawn grass, cut fine | 2 ounces |
| Alcohol | 16 ounces |
Put the grass in a wide-mouthed bottle, and pour the alcohol upon it. After standing a few days, agitating occasionally, pour off the liquid. The tincture may be used with both alcoholic and aqueous preparations.
Among the anilines, spirit soluble malachite green has been recommended.
A purple or violet tint may be produced by using tincture of litmus or ammoniated cochineal coloring. The former is made as follows:
| Litmus | 2 1/2 ounces |
| Boiling water | 16 ounces |
| Alcohol | 3 ounces |
Pour the water upon the litmus, stir well, allow to stand for about an hour, stirring occasionally, filter, and to the filtrate add the alcohol.
The aniline colors “Paris violet” or methyl violet B may be similarly employed. The amount necessary to produce a desired tint must be worked out by experiment. Yellow tints may best be imparted by the use of tincture of turmeric or saffron, fustic, quercitron, etc.
If a perfumed spirit, as, for instance, a mouth wash, is poured into a wineglassful of water, the oils will separate at once and spread over the surface of the water. This liquid being allowed to stand uncovered, one oil after another will evaporate, according to the degree of its volatility, until at last the least volatile remains behind.
This process sometimes requires weeks, and in order to be able to watch the separate phases of this evaporation correctly, it is necessary to use several glasses and to conduct the mixtures at certain intervals. The glasses must be numbered according to the day when set up, so that they may be readily identified.
If we assume, for example, that a mouth wash is to be examined, we may probably prepare every day for one week a mixture of about 100 grams of water and 10 drops of the respective liquid. Hence, after a lapse of 7 days {512} we will have before us 7 bouquets, of different odor, according to the volatility of the oils contained in them. From these different bouquets the qualitative composition of the liquid may be readily recognized, provided that one is familiar enough with the character of the different oils to be able to tell them by their odors.
The predominance of peppermint oil—to continue with the above example—will soon be lost and other oils will rise one after the other, to disappear again after a short time, so that the 7 glasses afford an entire scale of characteristic odors, until at last only the most lasting are perceptible. Thus it is possible with some practice to tell a bouquet pretty accurately in its separate odors.
In this manner interesting results are often reached, and with some perseverance even complicated mixtures can be analyzed and recognized in their distinctiveness. Naturally the difficulty in recognizing each oil is increased in the case of oils whose volatility is approximately the same. But even in this case changes, though not quite so marked, can be determined in the bouquet.
In a quantitative respect this method also furnishes a certain result as far as the comparison of perfumed liquids is concerned.
According to the quantity of the oils present the dim zone on the water is broader or narrower, and although the size of this layer may be changed by the admixture of other substances, one gains an idea regarding the quantity of the oils by mere smelling. It is necessary, of course, to choose glasses with equally large openings and to count out the drops of the essence carefully by means of a dropper.
When it is thought that all the odors have been placed, a test is made by preparing a mixture according to the recipe resulting from the trial.
Not pure oils, always alcoholic dilutions in a certain ratio should be used, in order not to disturb the task by a surplus of the different varieties, since it is easy to add more, but impossible to take away.
It is true this method requires patience, perseverance, and a fine sense of smell. One smelling test should not be considered sufficient, but the glasses should be carried to the nose as often as possible.
Fixing Agents In Perfumes.
Musk is depressing, and its use in cologne in even the minutest quantity will spoil the cologne. The musk lingers after the lighter odors have disappeared, and a sick person is pretty sure to feel its effects. Persons in vigorous health will not notice the depressing effects of musk, but when lassitude prevails these are very unpleasant. Moreover, it is not a necessity in these toilet accessories, either as a blending or as a fixing agent. Its place is better supplied by benzoin for both purposes.
As to alcohol, a lot of nonsense has been written about the necessity of extreme care in selecting it, such as certain kinds requiring alcohol made from grapes and others demanding extreme purification, etc. A reasonable attention to a good quality of alcohol, even at a slight increase in cost, will always pay, but, other things being equal, a good quality of oils in a poor quality of alcohol will give far better satisfaction than the opposite combination. The public is not composed of exacting connoisseurs, and it does not appreciate extreme care or expense in either particular. A good grade of alcohol, reasonably free from heavy and lingering foreign odors, will answer practically all the requirements.
General Directions For Making Perfumes.
Seeds, pods, bark rhizomes, etc., should be cut up in small pieces or powdered.
Perfumes improve by storing. It is a good plan to tie over the mouth of the containing vessel some fairly thick porous material, and to allow the vessel to stand for a week or two in a cool place, instead of corking at once.
It is perhaps unnecessary to add that as large a quantity as possible should be decanted, and then the residue filtered. This obviously prevents loss by evaporation. Talc or kieselguhr (amorphous SiO2) are perhaps the best substances to add to the filter in order to render liquid perfumes bright and clear, and more especially necessary in the case of aromatic vinegars.
The operations involved in making perfumes are simple; the chief thing to be learned, perhaps, is to judge of the quality of materials.
The term “extract,” when used in most formulas, means an alcoholic solution of the odorous principles of certain flowers obtained by enfluerage; that is, the flowers are placed in contact with prepared grease which absorbs the odorous matter, and this grease is in turn macerated with alcohol which dissolves out the odor. A small portion of the grease is taken up also at ordinary temperatures; this is removed by filtering the “extract” while “chilled” by a freezing mixture. The extracts can be either purchased or made directly from the pomade (as the grease is called). To employ the latter method successfully some experience may be necessary.
The tinctures are made with 95 per cent deodorized alcohol, enough menstruum being added through the marc when filtering to bring the finished preparation to the measure of the menstruum originally taken.
The glycerine is intended to act as a “fixing” agent—that is, to lessen the volatility of the perfumes.
Tinctures For Perfumes.—
a. Ambergris, 1 part; alcohol, 96 per cent, 15 parts.
b. Benzoin, Sumatra, 1 part; alcohol, 96 per cent, 6 parts.
c. Musk, 1 part; distilled water, 25 parts; spirit, 96 per cent, 25 parts.
d. Musk, 1 part; spirit, 96 per cent, 50 parts; for very oleiferous compositions.
e. Peru balsam, 1 part in spirit, 96 per cent, 7 parts; shake vigorously.
f. Storax, 1 part in spirit, 96 per cent, 15 parts.
g. Powdered Tolu balsam, 1 part; spirit, 96 per cent, 6 parts.
h. Chopped Tonka beans, 1 part; spirit, 60 per cent, 6 parts; for compositions containing little oil.
i. Chopped Tonka beans, 1 part; spirit, 96 per cent, 6 parts; for compositions containing much oil.
j. Vanilla, 1 part; spirit, 60 per cent, 6 parts; for compositions containing little oil.
k. Vanilla, 1 part; spirit, 96 per cent, 6 parts; for compositions containing much oil.
l. Vanillin, 20 parts; spirit, 96 per cent, 4,500 parts.
m. Powdered orris root, 1 part; spirit, 96 per cent, 5 parts.
n. Grated civet, 1 part in spirit, 96 per cent, 10 parts.
Bay Rum.
| I.— | Oil of bay leaves | 3 drachms |
|---|---|---|
| Oil of orange peel | 1/2 drachm | |
| Tincture of orange peel | 2 ounces | |
| Magnesium carbonate | 1/2 ounce | |
| Alcohol | 4 pints | |
| Water | 4 pints |
Triturate the oils with the magnesium carbonate, gradually adding the other ingredients previously mixed, and filter.
The tincture of orange peel is used chiefly as a coloring for the mixture.
Oil of bay leaves as found in the market varies in quality. The most costly will presumably be found the best, and its use will not make the product expensive. It can be made from the best oil and deodorized alcohol and still sold at a moderate price with a good profit.
Especial care should be taken to use only perfectly fresh oil of orange peel. As is well known, this oil deteriorates rapidly on exposure to the air, acquiring an odor similar to that of turpentine. The oil should be kept in bottles of such size that when opened the contents can be all used in a short time. {514}
II.—Bay oil, 15 parts; sweet orange oil, 1 part; pimento oil, 1 part; spirit of wine, 1,000 parts; water, 750 parts; soap spirit or quillaia bark, ad libitum.
III.—Bay oil, 12.5 parts; sweet orange oil, 0.5 part; pimento oil, 0.5 part; spirit of wine, 200 parts; water, 2,800 parts; Jamaica rum essence, 75 parts; soap powder, 20 parts; quillaia extract, 5 parts; borax, 10 parts; use sugar color.
Colognes.
| I.— | Oil of bergamot | 10 parts |
|---|---|---|
| Oil of neroli | 15 parts | |
| Oil of citron | 5 parts | |
| Oil of cedrat | 5 parts | |
| Oil of rosemary | 1 part | |
| Tincture of ambergris | 5 parts | |
| Tincture of benzoin | 5 parts | |
| Alcohol | 1,000 parts |
II.—The following is stated to be the “original” formula:
| Oil of bergamot | 96 parts | |
| Oil of citron | 96 parts | |
| Oil of cedrat | 96 parts | |
| Oil of rosemary | 48 parts | |
| Oil of neroli | 48 parts | |
| Oil of lavender | 48 parts | |
| Oil of cavella | 24 parts | |
| Absolute alcohol | 1,000 parts | |
| Spirit of rosemary | 25,000 parts | |
| III.— | Alcohol, 90 per cent | 5,000 parts |
| Bergamot oil | 220 parts | |
| Lemon oil | 75 parts | |
| Neroli oil | 20 parts | |
| Rosemary oil | 5 parts | |
| Lavender oil French | 5 parts |
The oils are well dissolved in spirit and left alone for a few days with frequent shaking. Next add about 40 parts of acetic acid and filter after a while.
| IV.— | Alcohol, 90 per cent | 5,000 parts |
|---|---|---|
| Lavender oil, French | 35 parts | |
| Lemon oil | 30 parts | |
| Portugallo oil | 30 parts | |
| Neroli oil | 15 parts | |
| Bergamot oil | 15 parts | |
| Petit grain oil | 4 parts | |
| Rosemary oil | 4 parts | |
| Orange water | 700 parts |
Cologne Spirits Or Deodorized Alcohol.
| Alcohol, 95 per cent | 1 gallon |
| Powdered unslaked lime | 4 drachms |
| Powdered alum | 2 drachms |
| Spirit of nitrous ether | 1 drachm |
Mix the lime and alum, and add them to the alcohol, shaking the mixture well together; then add the sweet spirit of niter and set aside for 7 days, shaking occasionally; finally filter.
Florida Waters.—
| Oil of bergamot | 3 fluidounces |
| Oil of lavender | 1 fluidounce |
| Oil of cloves | 1 1/4 fluidrachms |
| Oil of cinnamon | 2 1/2 fluidrachms |
| Oil of neroli | 1/2 fluidrachm |
| Oil of lemon | 1 fluidounce |
| Essence of jasmine | 6 fluidounces |
| Essence of musk | 2 fluidounces |
| Rose water | 1 pint |
| Alcohol | 8 pints |
Mix, and if cloudy, filter through magnesium carbonate.
Lavender Water.
| I.— | Oil of lavender | 1 1/2 ounces |
|---|---|---|
| Oil of bergamot | 4 drachms | |
| Essence ambergris | 4 drachms | |
| Proof spirit | 3 pints | |
| II.— | English oil of lavender | 1 ounce |
| Oil of bergamot | 1 1/2 drachms | |
| Essence of musk (No. 2) | 1/2 ounce | |
| Essence of ambergris | 1/2 ounce | |
| Proof spirit | 2 pints | |
| III.— | English oil of lavender | 1/2 ounce |
| Oil of bergamot | 2 drachms | |
| Essence of ambergris | 1 drachm | |
| Essence of musk (No. 1) | 3 drachms | |
| Oil of angelica | 2 minims | |
| Attar of rose | 6 minims | |
| Proof spirit | 1 pint | |
| IV.— | Oil of lavender | 4 ounces |
| Grain musk | 15 grains | |
| Oil of bergamot | 2 1/2 ounces | |
| Attar of rose | 1 1/2 drachms | |
| Oil of neroli | 1/2 drachm | |
| Spirit of nitrous ether | 2 1/2 ounces | |
| Triple rose water | 12 ounces | |
| Proof spirit | 5 pints |
Allow to stand 5 weeks before filtering.
Liquid Perfumes For The Handkerchief, Person, Etc.:
Acacia Extract.—
| French acacia | 400 parts |
| Tincture of amber (1 in 10) | 3 parts |
| Eucalyptus oil | 0.5 parts |
| Lavender oil | 1 part |
| Bergamot oil | 1 part |
| Tincture of musk | 2 parts |
| Tincture of orris root | 150 parts |
| Spirit of wine, 80 per cent | 500 parts |
Bishop Essence.—
| Fresh green peel of unripe oranges | 60.0 grams |
| Curaçao orange peel | 180.0 grams |
| Malaga orange peel | 90.0 grams |
| Ceylon cinnamon | 2.0 grams |
| Cloves | 7.5 grams |
| Vanilla | 11.0 grams |
| Orange flower oil | 4 drops |
| Spirit of wine | 1,500.0 grams |
| Hungarian wine | 720.0 grams |
A dark-brown tincture of pleasant taste and smell.
Caroline Bouquet.—
| Oil of lemon | 15 minims |
| Oil of bergamot | 1 drachm |
| Essence of rose | 4 ounces |
| Essence of tuberose | 4 ounces |
| Essence of violet | 4 ounces |
| Tincture of orris | 2 ounces |
Alexandra Bouquet.—
| Oil of bergamot | 3 1/2 drachms |
| Oil of rose geranium | 1/2 drachm |
| Oil of rose | 1/2 drachm |
| Oil of cassia | 15 minims |
| Deodorized alcohol | 1 pint |
Navy Bouquet.—
| Spirit of sandalwood | 10 ounces |
| Extract of patchouli | 10 ounces |
| Spirit of rose | 10 ounces |
| Spirit of vetivert | 10 ounces |
| Extract of verbena | 12 ounces |
Bridal Bouquet.—Sandal oil, 30 minims; rose extract, 4 fluidounces; jasmine extract, 4 fluidounces; orange flower extract, 16 fluidounces; essence of vanilla, 1 fluidounce; essence of musk, 2 fluidounces; tincture of storax, 2 fluidounces. (The tincture of storax is prepared with liquid storax and alcohol [90 per cent], 1:20, by macerating for 7 days.)
Irish Bouquet.—
| White rose essence | 5,000 parts |
| Vanilla essence | 450 parts |
| Rose oil | 5 parts |
| Spirit | 100 parts |
Essence Bouquet.—
| I.— | Spirit | 8,000 parts |
|---|---|---|
| Distilled water | 2,000 parts | |
| Iris tincture | 250 parts | |
| Vanilla herb tincture | 100 parts | |
| Benzoin tincture | 40 parts | |
| Bergamot oil | 50 parts | |
| Storax tincture | 50 parts | |
| Clove oil | 15 parts | |
| Palmarosa oil | 12 parts | |
| Lemon-grass oil | 15 parts | |
| II.— | Extract of rose (2d) | 64 ounces |
| Extract of jasmine (2d) | 12 ounces | |
| Extract of cassie (2d) | 8 ounces | |
| Tincture of orris (1 to 4) | 64 ounces | |
| Oil of bergamot | 1/2 ounce | |
| Oil of cloves | 1 drachm | |
| Oil of ylang-ylang | 1/2 drachm | |
| Tincture of benzoin (1 to 8) | 2 ounces | |
| Glycerine | 4 ounces |
Bouquet Canang.—
| Ylang-ylang oil | 45 minims |
| Grain musk | 3 grains |
| Rose oil | 15 minims |
| Tonka beans | 3 |
| Cassie oil | 5 minims |
| Tincture orris rhizome | 1 fluidounce |
| Civet | 1 grain |
| Almond oil | 1/2 minim |
| Storax tincture | 3 fluidrachms |
| Alcohol, 90 per cent | 9 fluidounces |
Mix, and digest 1 month. The above is a very delicious perfume.
Cassie oil or otto is derived from the flowers of Acacia farnesiana Mimosa farnesiana, L. (N. O. Leguminosæ, suborder Mimoseæ). It must not be confounded with cassia otto, the essential oil obtained from Cinnamomum cassia.
Cashmere Nosegay.—
| I.— | Essence of violet, from pomade | 1 pint |
|---|---|---|
| Essence of rose, from pomade | 1 1/2 pints | |
| Tincture of benzoin, (1 to 4) | 1/2 pint | |
| Tincture of civet (1 to 64) | 1/4 pint | |
| Tincture of Tonka (1 to 4) | 1/4 pint | |
| Benzoic acid | 1/2 ounce | |
| Oil of patchouli | 1/4 ounce | |
| Oil of sandal | 1/2 ounce | |
| Rose water | 1/2 pint | |
| II.— | Essence violet | 120 ounces |
| Essence rose | 180 ounces | |
| Tincture benjamin (1 in 4) | 60 ounces | |
| Tincture civet (1 in 62) | 30 ounces | |
| Tincture Tonka (1 in 4) | 30 ounces | |
| Oil patchouli | 3 ounces | |
| Oil sandalwood | 6 ounces | |
| Rose water | 60 ounces |
Clove Pink.—
| I.— | Essence of rose | 2 ounces |
|---|---|---|
| Essence of orange flower | 6 ounces | |
| Tincture of vanilla | 3 1/2 ounces | |
| Oil of cloves | 20 minims | |
| II.— | Essence of cassie | 5 ounces |
| Essence of orange flower | 5 ounces | |
| Essence of rose | 10 ounces | |
| Spirit of rose | 7 ounces | |
| Tincture of vanilla | 3 ounces | |
| Oil of cloves | 12 minims |
Frangipanni.—
| I.— | Grain musk | 10 grains |
|---|---|---|
| Sandal otto | 25 minims | |
| Rose otto | 25 minims | |
| Orange flower otto (neroli) | 30 minims | |
| Vetivert otto | 5 minims | |
| Powdered orris rhizome | 1/2 ounce | |
| Vanilla | 30 grains | |
| Alcohol (90 per cent) | 10 fluidounces |
Mix and digest for 1 month. This is a lasting and favorite perfume.
| II.— | Oil of rose | 2 drachms |
|---|---|---|
| Oil of neroli | 2 drachms | |
| Oil of sandalwood | 2 drachms | |
| Oil of geranium (French) | 2 drachms | |
| Tincture of vetivert (1 1/4 to 8) | 96 ounces | |
| Tincture of Tonka (1 to 8) | 16 ounces | |
| Tincture of orris (1 to 4) | 64 ounces | |
| Glycerine | 6 ounces | |
| Alcohol | 64 ounces |
Handkerchief Perfumes.—
| I.— | Lavender oil | 10 parts |
|---|---|---|
| Neroli oil | 10 parts | |
| Bitter almond oil | 2 parts | |
| Orris root | 200 parts | |
| Rose oil | 5 parts | |
| Clove oil | 5 parts | |
| Lemon oil | 1 part | |
| Cinnamon oil | 2 parts |
Mix with 2,500 parts of best alcohol, and after a rest of 3 days heat moderately on the water bath, and filter.
| II.— | Bergamot oil | 10 parts |
|---|---|---|
| Orange peel oil | 10 parts | |
| Cinnamon oil | 2 parts | |
| Rose geranium oil | 1 part | |
| Lemon oil | 4 parts | |
| Lavender oil | 4 parts | |
| Rose oil | 1 part | |
| Vanilla essence | 5 parts |
Mix with 2,000 parts of best spirit, and after leaving undisturbed for 3 days, heat moderately on the water bath, and filter.
Honeysuckle.—
| Oil of neroli | 12 minims |
| Oil of rose | 10 minims |
| Oil of bitter almond | 8 minims |
| Tincture of storax | 4 ounces |
| Tincture of vanilla | 6 ounces |
| Essence of cassie | 16 ounces |
| Essence of rose | 16 ounces |
| Essence of tuberose | 16 ounces |
| Essence of violet | 16 ounces |
Iridia.—
| Coumarin | 10 grains |
| Concentrated rose water (1 to 40) | 2 ounces |
| Neroli oil | 5 minims |
| Vanilla bean | 1 drachm |
| Bitter almond oil | 5 minims |
| Orris root | 1 drachm |
| Alcohol | 10 ounces |
Macerate for a month. {517}
Javanese Bouquet.—
| Rose oil | 15 minims |
| Pimento oil | 20 minims |
| Cassia oil | 3 minims |
| Neroli oil | 3 minims |
| Clove oil | 2 minims |
| Lavender oil | 60 minims |
| Sandalwood oil | 10 minims |
| Alcohol | 10 ounces |
| Water | 1 1/2 ounces |
Macerate for 14 days.
Lily Perfume.—
| Essence of jasmine | 1 ounce |
| Essence of orange flowers | 1 ounce |
| Essence of rose | 2 ounces |
| Essence of cassie | 2 ounces |
| Essence of tuberose | 8 ounces |
| Spirit of rose | 1 ounce |
| Tincture of vanilla | 1 ounce |
| Oil of bitter almond | 2 minims |
Lily of the Valley.—
| I.— | Acacia essence | 750 parts |
|---|---|---|
| Jasmine essence | 750 parts | |
| Orange flower essence | 800 parts | |
| Rose flower essence | 800 parts | |
| Vanilla flower essence | 1,500 parts | |
| Bitter almond oil | 15 parts | |
| II.— | Oil of bitter almond | 10 minims |
| Tincture of vanilla | 2 ounces | |
| Essence of rose | 2 ounces | |
| Essence of orange flower | 2 ounces | |
| Essence of jasmine | 2 1/2 ounces | |
| Essence of tuberose | 2 1/2 ounces | |
| Spirit of rose | 2 1/2 ounces | |
| III.— | Extract rose | 200 parts |
| Extract vanilla | 200 parts | |
| Extract orange | 800 parts | |
| Extract jasmine | 600 parts | |
| Extract musk tincture | 150 parts | |
| Neroli oil | 10 parts | |
| Rose oil | 6 parts | |
| Bitter almond oil | 4 parts | |
| Cassia oil | 5 parts | |
| Bergamot oil | 6 parts | |
| Tonka beans essence | 150 parts | |
| Linaloa oil | 12 parts | |
| Spirit of wine (90 per cent) | 3,000 parts | |
| IV.— | Neroli extract | 400 parts |
| Orris root extract | 600 parts | |
| Vanilla extract | 400 parts | |
| Rose extract | 900 parts | |
| Musk extract | 200 parts | |
| Orange extract | 500 parts | |
| Clove oil | 6 parts | |
| Bergamot oil | 5 parts | |
| Rose geranium oil | 15 parts |
Maréchal Niel Rose.—In the genus of roses, outside of the hundred-leaved or cabbage rose, the Maréchal Niel rose (Rosa Noisetteana Red), also called Noisette rose and often, erroneously, tea rose, is especially conspicuous. Its fine, piquant odor delights all lovers of precious perfumes. In order to reproduce the fine scent of this flower artificially at periods when it cannot be had without much expenditure, the following recipes will be found useful:
| I.— | Infusion rose I (from pomades) | 1,000 parts |
|---|---|---|
| Genuine rose oil | 10 parts | |
| Infusion Tolu balsam | 150 parts | |
| Infusion genuine musk I | 40 parts | |
| Neroli oil | 30 parts | |
| Clove oil | 2 parts | |
| Infusion tubereuse I (from pomades) | 1,000 parts | |
| Vanillin | 1 part | |
| Coumarin | 0.5 parts | |
| II.— | Triple rose essence | 50 grams |
| Simple rose essence | 60 grams | |
| Neroli essence | 30 grams | |
| Civet essence | 20 grams | |
| Iris essence | 30 grams | |
| Tonka beans essence | 20 grams | |
| Rose oil | 5 drops | |
| Jasmine essence | 60 grams | |
| Violet essence | 50 grams | |
| Cassia essence | 50 grams | |
| Vanilla essence | 45 grams | |
| Clove oil | 20 drops | |
| Bergamot oil | 10 drops | |
| Rose geranium oil | 20 drops |
May Flowers.—
| Essence of rose | 10 ounces |
| Essence of jasmine | 10 ounces |
| Essence of orange flowers | 10 ounces |
| Essence of cassie | 10 ounces |
| Tincture of vanilla | 20 ounces |
| Oil of bitter almond | 1/2 drachm |
Narcissus.—
| Caryophyllin | 10 minims |
| Extract of tuberose | 16 ounces |
| Extract of jasmine | 4 ounces |
| Oil of neroli | 20 minims |
| Oil of ylang-ylang | 20 minims |
| Oil of clove | 5 minims |
| Glycerine | 30 minims |
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Almond Blossom.—
| Extract of heliotrope | 30 parts |
| Extract of orange flower | 10 parts |
| Extract of jasmine | 10 parts |
| Extract of rose | 3 parts |
| Oil of lemon | 1 part |
| Spirit of bitter almond, 10 per cent | 6 parts |
| Deodorized alcohol | 40 parts |
Artificial Violet.—Ionone is an artificial perfume which smells exactly like fresh violets, and is therefore an extremely important product. Although before it was discovered compositions were known which gave fair imitations of the violet perfume, they were wanting in the characteristic tang which distinguishes all violet preparations. Ionone has even the curious property possessed by violets of losing its scent occasionally for a short time. It occasionally happens that an observer, on taking the stopper out of a bottle of ionone, perceives no special odor, but a few seconds after the stopper has been put back in the bottle, the whole room begins to smell of fresh violets. It seems to be a question of dilution. It is impossible, however, to make a usable extract by mere dilution of a 10 per cent solution of ionone.
It is advisable to make these preparations in somewhat large quantities, say 30 to 50 pounds at a time. This enables them to be stocked for some time, whereby they improve greatly. When all the ingredients are mixed, 10 days or a fortnight, with frequent shakings, should elapse before filtration. The filtered product must be kept in well-filled and well-corked bottles in a dry, dark, cool place, such as a well-ventilated cellar. After 5 or 6 weeks the preparation is ready for use.
Quadruple Extract.—
| By weight | |
|---|---|
| Jasmine extract, 1st pomade | 100 parts |
| Rose extract, 1st pomade | 100 parts |
| Cassia extract, 1st pomade | 200 parts |
| Violet extract, 1st pomade | 200 parts |
| Oil of geranium, Spanish | 2 parts |
| Solution of vanillin, 10 per cent | 10 parts |
| Solution of orris, 10 per cent | 100 parts |
| Solution of ionone, 10 per cent | 20 parts |
| Infusion of musk | 10 parts |
| Infusion of orris from coarsely ground root | 260 parts |
Triple Extract.—
| By weight | |
|---|---|
| Cassia extract, 2d pomade | 100 parts |
| Violet extract, 2d pomade | 300 parts |
| Jasmine extract, 2d pomade | 100 parts |
| Rose extract, 2d pomade | 100 parts |
| Oil of geranium, African | 1 part |
| Ionone, 10 per cent | 15 parts |
| Solution of vanillin, 10 per cent | 5 parts |
| Infusion of orris from coarse ground root | 270 parts |
| Infusion of musk | 10 parts |
Double Extract.—
| By weight | |
|---|---|
| Cassia extract, 2d pomade | 100 parts |
| Violet extract, 2d pomade | 150 parts |
| Jasmine extract, 2d pomade | 100 parts |
| Rose extract, 2d pomade | 100 parts |
| Oil of geranium, reunion | 2 parts |
| Ionone, 10 per cent | 10 parts |
| Solution of vanillin, 10 per cent | 10 parts |
| Infusion of ambrette | 20 parts |
| Infusion of orris from coarse ground root | 300 parts |
| Spirit | 210 parts |
White Rose.—
| Rose oil | 25 minims |
| Rose geranium oil | 20 minims |
| Patchouli oil | 5 minims |
| Ionone | 3 minims |
| Jasmine oil (synthetic) | 5 minims |
| Alcohol | 10 ounces |
Ylang-Ylang Perfume.—
| I.— | Ylang-ylang oil | 10 minims |
|---|---|---|
| Neroli oil | 5 minims | |
| Rose oil | 5 minims | |
| Bergamot oil | 3 minims | |
| Alcohol | 10 ounces |
One grain of musk may be added.
| II.— | Extract of cassie (2d) | 96 ounces |
|---|---|---|
| Extract of jasmine (2d) | 24 ounces | |
| Extract of rose | 24 ounces | |
| Tincture of orris | 4 ounces | |
| Oil of ylang-ylang | 6 drachms | |
| Glycerine | 6 ounces |
TOILET WATERS.
Toilet waters proper are perfumed liquids designed more especially as refreshing applications to the person—accessories to the bath and to the operations of the barber. They are used sparingly on the handkerchief also, but should not be of so persistent a character as the “extracts” commonly used for that purpose, as they would then be unsuitable as lotions.
Ammonia Water.—Fill a 6-ounce ground glass stoppered bottle with a rather wide mouth with pieces of ammonium carbonate as large as a marble, then drop in the following essential oils:
| Oil of lavender | 30 drops |
| Oil of bergamot | 30 drops |
| Oil of rose | 10 drops |
| Oil of cinnamon | 10 drops |
| Oil of clove | 10 drops |
Finally fill the bottle with stronger water of ammonia, put in the stopper and let stand overnight.
Birch-Bud Water.—Alcohol (96 per cent), 350 parts; water, 70 parts; soft soap, 20 parts; glycerine, 15 parts; essential oil of birch buds, 5 parts; essence of spring flowers, 10 parts; chlorophyll, quantity sufficient to tint. Mix the water with an equal volume of spirit and dissolve the soap in the mixture. Mix the oil and other ingredients with the remainder of the spirit, add the soap solution gradually, agitate well, allow to stand for 8 days and filter. For use, dilute with an equal volume of water.
Carmelite Balm Water.—
| Melissa oil | 30 minims |
| Sweet marjoram oil | 3 minims |
| Cinnamon oil | 10 minims |
| Angelica oil | 3 minims |
| Citron oil | 30 minims |
| Clove oil | 15 minims |
| Coriander oil | 5 minims |
| Nutmeg oil | 5 minims |
| Alcohol (90 per cent) | 10 fluidounces |
Angelica oil is obtained principally from the aromatic root of Angelica archangelica, L. (N. O. Umbelliferæ), which is commonly cultivated for the sake of the volatile oil which it yields.
Cypress Water.—
| Essence of ambergris | 1/2 ounce |
| Spirits of wine | 1 gallon |
| Water | 2 quarts |
Distill a gallon.
Eau de Botot.—
| Aniseed | 80 parts |
| Clover | 20 parts |
| Cinnamon cassia | 20 parts |
| Cochineal | 5 parts |
| Refined spirit | 800 parts |
| Rose water | 200 parts |
Digest for 8 days and add
| Tincture of ambergris | 1 part |
| Peppermint oil | 10 parts |
Eau de Lais.—
| Eau de cologne | 1 part |
| Jasmine extract | 0.5 parts |
| Lemon essence | 0.5 parts |
| Balm water | 0.5 parts |
| Vetiver essence | 0.5 parts |
| Triple rose water | 0.5 parts |
Eau de Merveilleuse.—
| Alcohol | 3 quarts |
| Orange flower water | 4 quarts |
| Peru balsam | 2 ounces |
| Clove oil | 4 ounces |
| Civet | 1 1/4 ounces |
| Rose geranium oil | 1/2 ounce |
| Rose oil | 4 drachms |
| Neroli oil | 4 drachms |
Edelweiss.—
| Bergamot oil | 10 grams |
| Tincture of ambergris | 2 grams |
| Tincture of vetiver (1 in 10) | 25 grams |
| Heliotropin | 5 grams |
| Rose oil spirit (1 in 100) | 25 grams |
| Tincture of musk | 5 drops |
| Tincture of angelica | 12 drops |
| Neroli oil, artificial | 10 drops |
| Hyacinth, artificial | 15 drops |
| Jasmine, artificial | 1 gram |
| Spirit of wine, 80 per cent | 1,000 grams |
Honey Water.—
| I.— | Best honey | 1 pound |
|---|---|---|
| Coriander seed | 1 pound | |
| Cloves | 1 1/2 ounces | |
| Nutmegs | 1 ounce | |
| Gum benjamin | 1 ounce | |
| Vanilloes, No. 4 | 1 drachm | |
| The yellow rind of 3 large lemons. | ||
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Bruise the cloves, nutmegs, coriander seed, and benjamin, cut the vanilloes in pieces, and put all into a glass alembic with 1 gallon of clean rectified spirit, and, after digesting 48 hours, draw off the spirit by distillation. To 1 gallon of the distilled spirit add
| Damask rose water | 1 1/2 pounds |
| Orange flower water | 1 1/2 pounds |
| Musk | 5 grains |
| Ambergris | 5 grains |
Grind the musk and ambergris in a glass mortar, and afterwards put all together into a digesting vessel, and let them circulate 3 days and 3 nights in a gentle heat; then let all cool. Filter, and keep the water in bottles well stoppered.
| II.— | Oil of cloves | 2 1/2 drachms |
|---|---|---|
| Oil of bergamot | 10 drachms | |
| English oil of lavender | 2 1/2 drachms | |
| Musk | 4 grains | |
| Yellow sandalwood | 2 1/2 drachms | |
| Rectified spirit | 32 ounces | |
| Rose water | 8 ounces | |
| Orange flower water | 8 ounces | |
| English honey | 2 ounces |
Macerate the musk and sandalwood in the spirit 7 days, filter, dissolve the oils in the filtrate, add the other ingredients, shake well, and do so occasionally, keeping as long as possible before filtering.
Lilac Water.—
| Terpineol | 2 drachms |
| Heliotropin | 8 grains |
| Bergamot oil | 1 drachm |
| Neroli oil | 8 minims |
| Alcohol | 12 ounces |
| Water | 4 ounces |
Orange Flower Water.—
| Orange flower essence | 8 ounces |
| Magnesium carbonate | 1 ounce |
| Water | 8 pints |
Triturate the essence with the magnesium carbonate, add the water, and filter.
To Clarify Turbid Orange Flower Water.—Shake 1 quart of it with 1/4 pound of sand which has previously been boiled out with hydrochloric acid, washed with water, and dried at red heat. This process doubtless would prove valuable for many other purposes.
Violet Waters.—
| I.— | Spirit of ionone, 10 per cent | 1/2 drachm |
|---|---|---|
| Distilled water | 5 ounces | |
| Orange flower water | 1 ounce | |
| Rose water | 1 ounce | |
| Cologne spirit | 8 ounces |
Add the spirit of ionone to the alcohol and then add the waters. Let stand and filter.
| II.— | Violet extract | 2 ounces |
|---|---|---|
| Cassie extract | 1 ounce | |
| Spirit of rose | 1/2 ounce | |
| Tincture of orris | 1/2 ounce | |
| Green coloring, a sufficiency. | ||
| Alcohol to 20 ounces. | ||
Perfumed Pastilles.
These scent tablets consist of a compressed mixture of rice starch, magnesium carbonate, and powdered orris root, saturated with heliotrope, violet, or lilac perfume.
Violet.—
| Ionone | 50 parts |
| Ylang-ylang oil | 50 parts |
| Tincture of musk, extra strong | 200 parts |
| Tincture of benzoin | 200 parts |
Heliotrope.—
| Heliotropin | 200 parts |
| Vanillin | 50 parts |
| Tincture of musk | 100 parts |
| Tincture of benzoin | 200 parts |
Lilac.—
| Terpineol | 200 parts |
| Muguet | 200 parts |
| Tincture of musk | 200 parts |
| Tincture of benzoin | 200 parts |
| Sandalwood | 2 drachms |
| Vetivert | 2 drachms |
| Lavender flowers | 4 drachms |
| Oil of thyme | 1/2 drachm |
| Charcoal | 2 ounces |
| Potassium nitrate | 1/2 ounce |
| Mucilage of tragacanth, a sufficient quantity. | |
Perfumes For Hair Oils.—
| I.— | Heliotropin | 8 grains |
|---|---|---|
| Coumarin | 1 grain | |
| Oil of orris | 1 drop | |
| Oil of rose | 15 minims | |
| Oil of bergamot | 30 minims | |
| II.— | Coumarin | 2 grains |
| Oil of cloves | 4 drops | |
| Oil of cassia | 4 drops | |
| Oil of lavender flowers | 15 minims | |
| Oil of lemon | 45 minims | |
| Oil of bergamot | 75 minims |
Soap Perfumes.—
See also Soap.
| I.— | Oil of lavender | 1/2 ounce |
|---|---|---|
| Oil of cassia | 30 minims | |
| Add 5 pounds of soap stock. | ||
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- 1 1/2 drachms of each:
- II.—Oil of caraway
- Oil of clove
- Oil of white thyme
- Oil of cassia
- Oil of orange leaf (neroli petit grain)
- Oil of lavender
Add to 5 pounds of soap stock.
PERFUMES (FUMIGANTS): See Fumigants.
PERSPIRATION REMEDY: See Cosmetics.