PYROTECHNICS

Fireworks.

The chief chemical process is, of course, oxidation. Oxidation may be produced by the atmosphere, but in many cases this is not enough, and then the pyrotechnist must employ his knowledge of chemistry in selecting oxidizing agents.

The chief of these oxidizing agents are chlorates and nitrates, the effect of which is to promote the continuance of combustion when it is once started. They are specially useful, owing to their solid non-hygroscopic nature. Then ingredients are needed to prevent the too speedy action of the oxidizing agents, to regulate the process of combustion, such as calomel, sand, and sulphate of potash. Thirdly, there are the active ingredients that produce the desired effect, prominent among which are substances that in contact with flame impart some special color to it. Brilliancy and brightness are imparted by steel, zinc, and copper {609} filings. Other substances employed are lampblack with gunpowder, and, for theatre purposes, lycopodium.

Fireworks may be classified under four heads, viz.:

1. Single fireworks.

2. Terrestrial fireworks, which are placed upon the ground and the fire issues direct from the surface.

3. Atmospheric fireworks, which begin their display in the air.

4. Aquatic fireworks, in which oxidation is so intense that they produce a flame under water.

Rockets.
Sulphur1 part
Carbon, wood2 parts
Niter4 parts
Meal powder1 part

Meal powder is a fine black or brown dust, which acts as a diluent.

Roman Candles.
Sulphur4 parts
Carbon3 parts
Niter8 parts
Pin Wheels.
Sulphur 5 parts
Niter 9 parts
Meal powder15 parts
Color as desired.
Bengal Lights.
Realgar 1 part
Black antimony 5 parts
Red lead 1 part
Sulphur 3 parts
Niter14 parts

Colored Fires.

The compounds should be ignited in a small pill box resting on a plate. All the ingredients must be dried and powdered separately, and then lightly mixed on a sheet of paper. Always bear in mind that sulphur and chlorate of potassium explode violently if rubbed together.

Smokeless Vari-colored Fire.

The following salts, if finely powdered and burned in an iron ladle with a little spirits, will communicate to the flame their peculiar colors.

The colored fires are used largely in the production of various theatrical effects.

Blue Fire.—
I.—Ter-sulphuret of antimony    1 part
Sulphur    2 parts
Nitrate of potassium    6 parts
II.—Sulphur   15 parts
Potassium sulphate   15 parts
Ammonio-cupric sulphate   15 parts
Potassium nitrate   27 parts
Potassium chlorate   28 parts
III.—Chlorate of potash    8 parts
Calomel    4 parts
Copper sulphate    5 parts
Shellac    3 parts
IV.—Ore pigment    2 parts
Charcoal    3 parts
Potassium chloride    5 parts
Sulphur   13 parts
Potassium nitrate   77 parts
V.—Potassium chlorate   10 parts
Copper chlorate   20 parts
Alcohol   20 parts
Water  100 parts
VI.—Copper chlorate  100 parts
Copper nitrate   50 parts
Barium chlorate   25 parts
Potassium chlorate  100 parts
Alcohol  500 parts
Water1,000 parts
Green.—
I.—Barium chlorate 20 parts
Alcohol 20 parts
Water100 parts
II.—Barium nitrate 10 parts
Potassium chlorate 10 parts
Alcohol 20 parts
Water100 parts
III.—Shellac  5 parts
Barium nitrate  1 1/4 parts

Pound after cooling, and add Barium chlorate, 2 to 5 per cent.

Red.—
I.—Shellac5 parts
Strontium nitrate1 to 1.2 parts

Preparation as in green fare. In damp weather add 2 to 4 per cent of potassium chlorate to the red flame; the latter causes a little more smoke.

II.—Strontium nitrate 20 parts
Potassium chlorate 10 parts
Alcohol 20 parts
Water100 parts
Yellow.—
I.—Sulphur 16 parts
Dried carbonate of soda 23 parts
Chlorate of potassium 61 parts
II.—Sodium chlorate 20 parts
Potassium oxalate 10 parts
Alcohol 20 parts
Water100 parts
Violet.—
I.—Strontium chlorate 15 parts
Copper chlorate 15 parts
Potassium chlorate 15 parts
Alcohol 50 parts
Water100 parts
II.—Potassium chlorate 20 parts
Strontium chlorate 20 parts
Copper chlorate 10 parts
Alcohol 50 parts
Water100 parts
Lilac.—
Potassium chlorate 20 parts
Copper chlorate 10 parts
Strontium chloride 10 parts
Alcohol 50 parts
Water100 parts
Mauve.—
Chlorate of potash28 parts
Calomel12 parts
Shellac 4 parts
Strontium nitrate 4 parts
Cupric sulphate 2 parts
Fat 1 part
Purple.—
Copper sulphide 8 parts
Calomel 7 parts
Sulphur 2 parts
Chlorate of potash16 parts
White.—
I.—Gunpowder15 parts
Sulphur22 parts
Nitrate of potassium64 parts
II.—Potassium nitrate30 parts
Sulphur10 parts
Antimony sulphide (black) 5 parts
Flour 3 parts
Powdered camphor 2 parts
III.—Charcoal 1 part
Sulphur11 parts
Potassium sulphide38 parts
IV.—Stearine 1 part
Barium carbonate 1 part
Milk sugar 4 parts
Potassium nitrate 4 parts
Potassium chlorate12 parts

As a general rule, a corresponding quantity of shellac may be taken instead of the sulphur for inside fireworks.

The directions for using these solutions are simply to imbibe bibulous papers in them, then carefully dry and roll tightly into rolls of suitable length, according to the length of time they are to burn.

Fuses.
Potassium nitrate  2 parts
Lead acetate 40 parts
Water100 parts

Mix and dissolve, and in the solution place unsized paper; raise to nearly a boil and keep at this temperature for 20 minutes. If the paper is to be “slow,” it may now be taken out, dried, cut into strips, and rolled. If to be “faster,” the heat is to be continued longer, according to the quickness desired. Care must be taken to avoid boiling, which might disintegrate the paper.

In preparing these papers, every precaution against fire should be taken, and their preparation in the shop or house should not be thought of. In making the solutions, etc., where heat is necessary, the water bath should invariably be used.

Pyrotechnic Magic.

[Caution.—When about to place any lighted material in the mouth be sure that the mouth is well coated with saliva, and that you are exhaling the breath continuously, with greater or less force, according to the amount of heat you can bear.

If the lighted material shows a tendency to burn the mouth, do not attempt to drag it out quickly, but simply shut the lips tight, and breathe through the nose, and the fire must go out instantly.

In the Human Gas Trick, where a flame 10 to 15 inches long is blown from the mouth, be careful after lighting the {611} gas, to continue to exhale the breath. When you desire the gas to go out, simply shut the lips tight and hold the breath for a few seconds. In this trick, until the gas is well out, any inhalation is likely to be attended with the most serious results.

The several cautions above given may be examined with a lighted match, first removing, after lighting the match, any brimstone or phosphorus from its end.]

To Fire Paper, Etc., By Breathing On It.

Half fill a half-ounce bottle with carbon disulphide, and drop in 1 or 2 fragments of phosphorus, each the size of a pea, which will quickly dissolve. Shake up the liquid, and pour out a small teaspoonful onto a piece of blotting paper. The carbon disulphide will quickly evaporate, leaving a film of phosphorus on the paper, which will quickly emit fumes and burst into flame. The once-popular term Fenian fire was derived from the supposed use of this liquid by the Fenians for the purpose of setting fire to houses by throwing a bottle down a chimney or through a window, the bottle to break and its contents to speedily set fire to the place.

For the purpose of experiment this liquid should only be prepared in small quantities as above, and any left over should be poured away onto the soil in the open air, so as to obviate the risk of fire. Thin paper may be fired in a similar manner with the acid bulbs and powder already mentioned. The powder should be formed into a paste, laid on the paper, and allowed to dry. Then the acid bulb is pasted over the powder.

Burning Brimstone.
Blazing Sponge Trick.
Burning Sealing Wax.
Demon Bowls Of Fire.

Each bowl contains about 2 teaspoonfuls of ether, upon which is placed a small piece of the metal potassium, about the size of a pea. If the ether be pure the potassium will not be acted upon. When the water is poured into the bowl the ether and potassium float up, the latter acting vigorously on the water, evolving hydrogen and setting fire thereto, and to the ether as well.

The water may be poured into the bowl and lighted at command. In this case the potassium and ether are kept separated in the bowl, the former in a little cup on one side, and the latter in the body of the bowl. The water is poured in, and on rocking the bowl it is caused to wash into the little cup, the potassium floats up, and the fire is produced.

N. B.—The above tricks are not safe in any but specially made bowls, i. e., bowls with the wide flange round edge to prevent the accidental spilling of any portion of the burning ether.

The Burning Banana.
Sparks From The Finger Tips.
To Take Boiling Lead In The Mouth.
Bismuth8 parts
Lead5 parts
Tin2 parts

To prepare it, first melt the lead in a crucible, then add the bismuth and finally the tin, and stir well together with a piece of tobacco pipe stem. This “fusible metal” will melt in boiling water, and a teaspoon cast from the alloy will melt if very hot water be poured into it, or if boiling water be stirred with it. If the water be not quite boiling, as is pretty sure to be the case if tea from a teapot is used, in all probability the heat will be insufficient to melt the spoon. But by melting the alloy and adding to it a small quantity of quicksilver a compound will be produced, which, though solid at the ordinary temperature, will melt in water very much below the boiling point. Another variety of easily fusible alloy is made by melting together

Bismuth7 to 8 parts
Lead4 parts
Tin2 parts
Cadmium1 to 2 parts

This mixture melts at 158°, that given above at 208° F.

Either one of the several alloys above given will contain considerably less heat than lead, and in consequence be the more suitable for the purposes of a “Fire King.”

When a body is melted it is raised to a certain temperature and then gets no hotter, not even if the fire be increased—all the extra heat goes to melt the remainder of the substance.

Second Method.—This is done with a ladle constructed similarly to the tin cup in a previous trick. The lead, genuine in this case, is, apparently, drunk from the ladle, which is then tilted, that it may be seen to be empty. The lead is concealed in the secret interior of the ladle, and a solid piece of lead is in conclusion dropped from the mouth, as congealed metal.

To Eat Burning Coals.
Chain Of Fire.

NOTE.—Have a good hold of the end with the tongs, for if it should fall it would probably inflict a serious burn; for this reason also no burning oil must drop from the cotton.

Biting Off Red-hot Iron.
Water Stirred Yellow, Scarlet, And Colorless.

To heighten the effect, another ale glass, containing only clean water and a solid glass stirring-rod, may be handed to one of the company, with instructions to do the same as the performer; the result is amusing.

QUICK-WATER: See Alloys.

QUILTS, TO CLEAN: See Cleaning Preparations and Methods.

QUINCE EXTRACT: See Essences and Extracts.

RAGS FOR CLEANING AND POLISHING: See Cleaning Preparations and Methods.

RASPBERRYADE POWDER: See Salts, Effervescent.

RASPBERRY SYRUP: See Essences and Extracts.