INDEX

Accidents, mountaineering, causes of, [149], [256]
— — how to deal with, [264]-[7]
— — prevention of, [256]-[78]
— — their effect on others, [264]
Afanasief’s 100 Kaukasus Gipfel cited, [509], [510]
Ailments, [9]
Alpine Club of Canada, annual camps of the, [590]
— Ski-ing, Calendar for, [402], [403], [456]-[70]
Alps, the Dolomites of the Eastern, [47]
— the Eastern, [201]
— the High, hints for winter equipment for, [444]-[6]
— — in spring, [456]-[68]
— — in winter, [442]-[56]
— — snow conditions in the, [446]
— the Southern, [47]
Amateur mountaineer, the, [108], [109], [134], [135], [136]
— — improvement in his skill, [105], [106]
Anchor, the, [220], [223]
Anchoring on a descent, [191], [192]
Andorra, [559], [560]
Aneroid, [98], [445]
— the Watkin, [535]
Angle of lie of snow, the, [325], [326], [328], [329]
— — reconnoitring, [375], [376]
— of rock, [387], [388]
Ankle, part played by the, in climbing, [158], [159], [289], [303]
Anticipation in climbing, importance of, [157], [158]
Arctic mountaineering, [497]-[505]
Arms, use of the, in climbing, [161], [162]
Association among climbers, [150]
Automatic actions and adjustments in climbing, [69], [70]
Autumn ski-ing, [468], [469]
Avalanche ground, tactics on, [439]-[42]
Avalanche, liability of snow to, [328]
Avalanches, [273]-[5]
— classification of, [427], [428]
— conditions for their production, [273], [423]-[7]
— dangers of, [424], [425], [426], [430], [432], [433]-[8]
— dry powder, [428], [429]
— ground, [423], [427], [435]
— in Norway, [545]
— new wet snow, [429]-[31]
— old wet snow, [435]-[8]
— power of, [274], [428], [435], [436]
— rock, [271]
— summer snow, [438], [439]
— wind slab, [431]-[4]
Axe, the, [91], [92]
— as an extra hand, [206], [207]
— as a third leg, [178], [207], [292]
— in descent, [208]
— on rocks, [204]-[8]
— on snow, [336], [337]

Baedeker’s Canada cited, [574], [577]
— Norway cited, [536]
— S. W. France cited, [570]
Balaitous, the, [557]
Balance climbing, [144]-[8], [156], [157]
— factors involved in, [28]-[32], [140], [149], [156], [157]
Barometer. See [Aneroid]
Bath, the hot, [5]
— in tropics, [479]
— morning, cold, [4]
Bathing, [12], [13], [524], [532]
Bed, portable, [99]
Beginner, the, [113]-[6], [118]
— his choice of trainer, [114], [115]
Beginners, initial practice for, [148], [152], [153]; and see under [Rope]
Behind, the rope, [215]
Belay, the direct, [220], [221]
— the indirect, [221], [222]
Belays, [219]-[25]
Belloc’s Pyrenees cited, [570]
Benightment, [52], [53], [74], [75]
Bergschrund, [317], [337]
Bhutan, [527]
Bise, the, [446]
Bivouac, outfit for, [99]
— selection of a, [53]
Blindness, snow, [11], [343]
Blistering from sun, [11], [12], [90], [97]
Blizzards, danger of, [276]
Body brake, the, [196]
Boils, [484], [485]
Boots, [4], [80], [81], [82], [153]-[5]
— canvas, [155]
— care of, [81], [82]
— for the Himalaya, [534]
— for ski-ing, [402]
— nailing, [82], [83], [154], [155]
— rubber, [89]
Boracic powder for the feet, [5]
Boredom, [15], [16]
— of tramps over snow, [332]
Bouldering, [153], [171], [183]
Boum, the, [562]
Brakes, [195], [196]
— for glissading, [358], [359]
Breeches, [87], [88]
Breithorn, ski-ing on the Zermatt, [397]
Bridges, ice, [337], [338]
Bridgland’s Guide to Jasper Park, etc., cited, [583] n.
Britain, mist and cloud in, [389], [390]
— rocks in, [388], [389]
— snow in, [342]
Bruce’s Kulu and Lahoul cited, [529]
Bucket steps, [297]

Calendar for Alpine Ski-ing, [402], [403], [456]-[70]
Camera, the folding, [471]
— the hand, [471], [472]
— the Verascope, [478]
Canadian Pacific Railway District, the, [574]-[81]
Canteen for tropics, [487], [488]
Canvas boots, [155]
Capo al Dente, the, [519]
Carriers in tropics, [495]
Casque, the, [560]
Caucasus, the, climate of, [506]
— forests of, [508]
— literature of, [509], [510]
— maps of, [515], [516]
— modes of travel in, [511], [512], [514], [515]
— mountain system of, [508]
— mountaineering in, [506]-[16]
— — centres for, [512]
Caucasus, mountaineering in, commissariat for, [513], [514]
— — cost of, [516]
— — equipment for, [512], [513]
— records of, [508]
— routes of access to, [510]
— topography and structure of, [506]-[9]
Caulfield’s How to Ski cited, [398] n.
‘Chair,’ the, [196], [197]
Chalk, its peculiarities and risks, [180]
Chamois, as a danger, [271]
— in relation to avalanches, [441]
Chamonix Aiguilles, the, [46], [47], [277]
— granite, [146]
Check, easing of a, [258]-[60]
Checking on the rope, [259], [260]
Chill, avoidance of, [85]
— risk of, [5], [6], [7], [13]
Chimney climbing, [167]-[9]
Chimneys, descent of, [191]
Chocolate, [6], [445]
Christiania turn, the, [401]
Claws, [96], [97], [287]-[94]
— in glissading, [365], [366]
— in mountain ski-ing, [402], [419]
— their value, [286], [294], [513]
— theory of their use, [288], [289]
— types of, [287], [288]
Cliffs, sea, [181], [182]
Climbing down, [184]-[99]
— in combination, [209]-[55]
Closti turn, the, [401]
Clothing, [5], [11], [84]-[90]
— for the tropics, [488], [489]
— for women, [89], [90]
— for the Himalaya, [534]
Clouds as weather portents, [57]-[9]
— cirrus, [58]
— cumulus, [58]
— ‘fish’, [59]
— ‘mare’s-tails,’ [58]
— stratus, [58]
— thunder, [59]
Coat, the, [84], [85], [86], [87], [90]
Col du Lion, the, [57]
— Theodule, the, [57]
Cold, effect of, on endurance, [10], [11]
Coleman’s The Canadian Rockies, New and Old Trails, etc., cited, [581] n., [582], [583], [584], [586]
Collective confidence of party, [17], [18], [240]
— rhythm, [209], [211]
Colour photography, [477]
Combination, climbing in, [209]-[55]
— the secret of time-saving, [76]
Comolo Forno, the, [559]
Compass, [98]
— the radium, [52]
Confidence, danger of over-, [24], [25]
— necessity of self-, for leader, [17], [238]
Confusing effects of weather when on snow, [342]-[5]
Conjunctivitis, [483]
Constipation, [480], [481], [482]
Continuous going, [76]-[8]
Cooking apparatus, [98]
Cornices, snow, [338]-[40]
— — double, [380]
— — reconnoitring, [377]-[80]
Cornwall, cliff climbing in, [181]
Corsica, literature of, [520]
— modes of access to, [518]
— mountaineering in, [517]-[21]
— — centres for, [518], [519]
— — cost of, [518] n.
— — equipment for, [517], [518]
— — season for, [517]
— nature of climbing in, [520]
— topography and maps of, [518]-[21]
Coughs and colds, [482]
Couloirs, [268], [272]
— glissading on claws in, [365]
— reconnoitring, [382]-[4]
— snow in, [340]-[2]
— the plunging step in, [364], [365]
Courage, the measure of, [261], [262]
Courmayeur, weather in, [56]
Cover for the axe, use of a, [349]
Crabioules, the, [561]
Cracks, climbing, [165], [166]
— descent of, [191]
Crampons. See [Claws]
Crevasses, [316]-[21], [452], [455]
— hidden, [315]-[22], [449]
— marginal, [309], [450]
— reconnoitring, [381], [382]
— scimitar, [310]
— systems of, [309]-[11]
Crust, snow, [301], [331]
— effect of Föhn on, [413]
— — — frost on, [414]
— — — sun on, [415]
— — film, [414]
— — forms of, [410], [411]
— — marble, [411], [414]
— — perforated, [414]
— — soft breakable, [410]
— — trap, [410]
— — unbreakable, [410], [411]
Cups, drinking, [98]
Cushion, rubber, [99]
Cuts and scratches, [485]
Cutting. See under [Steps]
Cylindre, the, [560]

Damp, risks of, [5]
Dancing, as training, [4], [66], [156]
— movements analogous to those of climbing, [156], [157], [208]
Danger, [26], [27], [72], [149], [152], [237], [260], [261]
De Déchy’s Kaukasus Reisen und Forschungen cited, [509]
Descent, [42], [184]-[99]
Detached rock, [176], [177]
Diarrhœa, [481]
Direction, the sense of, [345]-[7]
Disappointment, [24]
Discipline of parties, [2], [3]
District, the choice of, [43]-[8]
Dogtooth Range, the, [580]
Dollfuss in May, [461]
Dom, the, [459]
Doubled rope, the, in descent, [192]-[5]
— on glaciers, [317]-[21]
Down, climbing, [184]-[99]
Drinks, [7], [8]
Dru, the, [47], [152]
Dunagiri, [529]
Dysentery, [481], [482]

Earth glissade, [182]
Earthquakes, [277], [278]
Ebnefluh, ski-work on the, [398], [459], [468]
Eckenstein, Mr., crampons designed by, [92], [96], [288]
— ice-axe designed by, [92]
— on knots for Alpine ropes, [94], [95]
— on nails for boots, [83]
— on ropes for Alpine work, [93], [94], [95]
Elbrus, [509]
End man, dangers of his fall, [260]
Equipment, for Alps, [80]-[8]
— for Arctic mountaineering, [498], [499]
— for Caucasus, [512]-[4]
— for Corsica, [517], [518]
— for Himalaya, [532]-[5]
— for mountain ski-ing, [402]
— for Norway, [539], [540]
— for Pyrenees, [566]-[9]
— for rock climbing in Britain, [88], [89]
— for Rocky Mountains, [588]-[90]
Ewige Schnee, [330]
Exceptional ascents, [120]-[2], [149]
Excitement, dangers of over-, [16]
Exercise, forms of preliminary, [4], [156], [158], [159], [181]
Exhaustion, [26], [27]
Experts, guide and amateur as, [111], [112], [118], [119]
Eyes, right use of the, in climbing, [146], [147], [166], [184], [185], [186], [187], [192], [312], [313], [321], [370]-[396]

Face-inward position in descent, [190], [191]
—— in glissading, [363], [364]
Face-outward position in descent, [188], [189]
Face-sideways position in descent, [189], [190]
Fall, [256]
— after a, [262]-[4]
Fallibility, human, [256], [257]
Fatigue, temper as a sign of, [20]
Fear, [26], [27]
Feet, care of the, [4], [5], [83]
Fell climbers, [142]
Fellowship, necessity of good, [3]
Fencing as training, [4], [66]
Fiescherhorn, the, [468]
Finsteraarhorn, the, [442]
Finsteraarjoch Pass, in winter, [397]
Firn, [285], [330]
First man on the rope, duty of the, [237]-[9]
Flysch, [425]
Fog. See [Mist]
Föhn, the, [59], [60], [61], [417]-[22]
— effects of, on snow, [326], [328], [377], [380], [412], [413]
— in spring, [421], [422], [436]
— in winter, [418]-[21]
— the dry, [418], [430]
— the wet, [413], [418], [429], [430]
Folgefond, the, [542]
Following and leading, [217], [218]
Food, the choice of, [6]
— — for tropics, [486], [487]
Foot brake, the, [195]
Footing, the right, for guide and climber, [125]-[9]
Footwork, [140], [141], [153]-[8], [161], [176]
— for balance climbing, [282]-[4]
Forbes, Prof. J. D., his Norway and its Glaciers cited, [536]
Fourcanade, the, [556], [562], [563]
Freak climbs, [182], [183]
Freshfield’s Round Kangchenjunga cited, [527]
Freshfield and Sella’s The Exploration of the Caucasus cited, [509], [515]
Front, the rope in, [214], [215]
Frost-bite, precautions against, [5], [288] n.
— remedies for, [10]
Frostisen, [544]
Fruit ice, [8]
Funicula, [254], [255]
Furka, the, [464]

Gabbro, [542], [543]
Gabiétou, the, [560]
Gaiters, [84]
Galdhöpiggen, [544]
Galenstock, the, [463], [464]
Galmihorn, the, [459]
Garhwal, [528]
Gauli Hut, the, [457]
Géant, the Dent du, [152], [201], [278]
Geology, value of knowledge of, [425], [426]
Giddiness, [9], [28]-[31], [182]
Gjækkevarre, the, [542]
Glacier falls, [311], [314]
— mills, [310]
Glaciers, [279]-[81], [285], [308]-[24]
— in the Himalaya, [531]
— in New Zealand, [554]
— in Norway, [545], [546]
— in the Pyrenees, [556]-[62]
— in the Rocky Mountains, [586]
— in Spitsbergen, [503], [504]
— practice in ice work on, [285], [286]
— ski-ing on, in winter, [448]-[56]
— snow-covered, [314]-[22]
Glacier work, [308]-[24]
Glasses, field, [97], [98]
— for prevention of snow-blindness, [11], [97], [321], [322], [534]
— for reconnoitring, [395]
Glazed rock, risks of, [170], [171], [193]
Glissading, [348]-[69]
— alternate, [362], [363]
— arrest of, [352]
— face-inward, [363], [364]
— jumping while, [357], [358]
— on claws, [365], [366]
— — in couloirs, [365]
— on earth, [182]
— on grass, [368], [369]
— on heather, [368], [369]
— on ice, [349]-[52]
— — position for, [349]-[52]
— on sand, [366]
— on scree, [366]-[8]
— on snow, [353]-[66]
— on volcanic ash, [366]
— — braking, [354], [355], [358], [359], [360]
— positions for, [353]-[61]
— — steering, [355]-[7]
— stone tests for, [361]
— the axe brake for, [354], [358], [359]
— the foot brake for, [358], [359]
— the rope in, [361], [362]
Glittertind, [544]
Gloves, [10], [86], [89], [195], [258]
Goats as a danger, [271]
Grand Trunk Pacific Railway, the, [582]-[4]
Grease on the face, [11], [90], [97]
Gredetschthal, the, [459]
Grépon, the, [47], [152], [385]
Grimsel region, the, [425], [463]
Grip climbing, [142], [143], [145], [174], [176]
Gritstone, [180]
Grove’s The Frosty Caucasus cited, [509]
Grundlawinen. See [Avalanches, ground]
Gspaltenhorn, the, [447]
Guide as mountaineer, the ideal, [107], [108]
— companionship of amateur and, [128], [129], [136], [137]
— nature, [123]-[37]
Guides, Alpine, changed conditions of, [103], [104]
— as experts, [111], [112], [119]
— care for their comfort, [126], [127]
— estimation of their qualities, [53]-[5]
— management of, [123]-[37]
— misconceptions of their function, [101]-[3]
— question of engaging, [118]-[22]
— traditional idea of, [102]
Guides’ books, hints as to writing up, [53]-[5]
Gullies, [141], [142], [268]
— glissading in winter, [368]
Gurla Mandhata, [528], [529]

‘Half step’ trick, the, [37]
Halts, [40], [77], [78], [332]
— the rope during, [251], [252]
Handholds, to cut, in ice, [298]
Hands, use of the, [161]-[7]
Hat, the, [85], [89]
Headaches, [9]
Health, importance of, [3], [4]
Heart, training and development of the, [67], [68]
Height, advantages of, [71]
— the psychological effect of, [31], [32], [293]
Helmet, woollen, [86]
Hill-shock. See [Hysteria]
Himalaya, the, climbing conditions in, [523], [525], [526]
— configuration of, [522], [523]
— glaciers of, [529]
— management of expedition to, [523]-[525]
— mountaineering in, [522]-[35]
— — clothing for, [534]
— — cost of, [531], [532]
— — equipment for, [528], [532], [533], [535]
— — food for, [533]
— — hints for, [533], [534]
— — instruments for, [535]
— — season for, [526]
— — use of claws in, [288] n.
— topography of, [527]-[9]
Hindu Khush, the, [530], [531]
Hochgebirgskalk, [425]
Holding the rope, [225]-[7]
Holds, anatomical, [244]
— cling, [161]-[2]
— finger, [161]
— friction, [160], [161], [169]
— on rock and ice, practice of, [69]
— over, [162]
— press, [163], [164], [179]
— pull, [174], [177], [179]
— push, [163]
— side, [162]
— under, [162]
Humours, preventable, [14]-[7]
Hurry, the blunder of, [38], [39], [40], [76], [77], [332]
Hut usages, [48]-[50]
Hysteria, or hill-shock, [26]-[8]

Ice, black, [285], [288], [294], [374]
— blue, [284]
— glacier, [284]
— grainy, [284]
— — hard, [290], [291], [545]
— honeycombed, [374]
— — rotten, [290], [294]
— — soft, [290]
— snow, [285]
Ice axe. See [Axe]
Ice claws. See under [Claws]
— climbing in relation to rock climbing, [282]-[4]
— craft, [282]-[324]
— fragments, danger from falling, [275], [276]
— sky, the, [393], [394]
Imitation, in collective climbing, [211]-[3]
Incudine, the, [520]
Infection of leader by party, [25], [26]
Injured man, a danger to his party, [260], [261]
Instruments, [57], [535]
Ireland, cliff climbing in, [181], [182], [391]

Joanne’s Pyrénées cited, [570]
Jungfrau, first winter ascent of, [397]
Justedals-brae, the, [545], [546]

Kamet, [529]
Kasbek, [512]
Kashmir and Karakoram, [530]
Kellas, Dr., on Sikkim, cited, [527], [528]
Kletterschuhe, [96], and see [Soles]
Knee, right use of the, in climbing, [146], [160]
Knickerbockers, [85]
Knots for ropes for mountaineering, [94], [95], [96], [255]
— tests of, [96]
Knutshultind, [544]
Kumaon, [528]

Lakes, the, [140], [152]
— snowcraft in, [342]
Lantern, folding, [52], [98]
Lava, old, [180]
Leader, duties of the, [1], [6], [8], [9], [10], [13], [18], [23], [39], [43], [44], [48]-[55], [125], [150], [151], [237]-[9], [323], [332]
— guide or amateur as, [109], [111]
— qualifications for, [1], [2], [3], [4], [9], [14], [15], [16], [19], [20], [21], [25], [33], [56], [150], [151], [237], [238], [239], [321]
— responsibilities of, [2], [6], [9], [10], [16], [17], [27], [32], [34], [35], [36], [38], [39], [111], [133], [134], [150], [151], [153], [227], [237]-[9], [260], [261], [263]
Le Blonde’s, Mrs., Mountaineering in the Land of the Midnight Sun cited, [536]
Leeches, [484]
Lens, [471], [473]
Light, to procure a, [52]
Lillienfeld ski, [398]
— system, [399], [401]
Limestone, [180], [181]
Loads, risks of unnecessary, [22], [75], [76]
Long rope, the, [198], [199]
Longstaff, Dr., on the Purcell Range, cited, [579]
Loops in ropes for glacier work, [320]
Lumière autochrome, the, [477]
Lungs, training and development of the, [67], [68]
Lunn’s Cross Country Ski-ing cited, [398] n., [402]
Lyskamm, the, [4]

Malaria, [480]
Maps, [98]
Marble, [180]
— crust, [411], [414]
Marboré, the, [557]
Mascot, uses of a, [34]
Matterhorn, the, [57], [112], [113], [201], [271], [272], [381], [386]
Maupas, the, [562]
May in the High Alps, [456]-[61], [463], [464]
Medicine chest for tropics, [485], [486]
Medicines, [100]
Merzbacher’s Aus den Hochregionen des Kaukasus cited, [509], [515]
Mind, influence of, on the body, [14], [129], [240]
Mist and cloud, uses of, [389], [390]
— dangers of, [277], [343], [346]
Moine, the, [152]
Mont Perdu, the, [559], [560], [561]
Monte Cinto, [520]
— Corona, [519]
— d’Oro, [519]
— Padro, [519]
— Renosa, [519]
— Rosa, [446], [457], [468], [469]
— — ski-ing on, [397]
Moraines, [178], [208], [292]
Mosquitoes, [480], [540]
Moods, abnormal, [23]-[8]
Mount Assiniboine, [575]
— Ball, [575]
— Beaver, [579]
— Cook, [551], [553]
— Duncan, [579]
— Edith Cavell, [575], [583]
— Fitzwilliam, [583]
— Hector, [576]
— Moloch, [577]
— Robson, [584], [585]
— Sir Sandford, [579]
— Torlesse, [553]
Mountain photography, [471]-[8]
— sickness, [9], [10]
Mountaineer, the amateur, contrasted with the guide, [103]-[8]
— the composite, [106]
— the moderate, [116]-[8]
— the true, [280]
Mountaineering in winter, [397]
Muffler, [86]
Mumm’s Five Months in the Himalaya cited, [528] n.
Mummery’s My Climbs in the Alps and Caucasus cited, [509]
Mürren, [469]
Muscular fitness, [9], [65], [66]

Nails, special, for climbing boots, [82], [83], [154]
Nanda Devi, [529]
Napes ridges, the, [152]
Natives, management of, [494], [495]
Nepal, [528]
Nerve, [70]
— exhaustion, [9], [26], [27]
Nerves, [68], [69]
Névé, [285], [330], [335], [448], [465], [470]
Neve’s Picturesque Kashmir cited, [530] n.
New Zealand, flora and fauna of, [553], [554]
— glaciers in, [554]
— guides for the Alps of, [549]
— mountains of, [550], [551], [555]
— routes to, [548], [549]
— the Southern Alps of, [548]-[55]
— topography and structure of, [551]-[3]
— weather of, [550]
Night dangers. See [Benightment]
Night, hints for walking at, [51]-[3]
Norway, glaciers of, [540], [541], [542], [543]
— guide books and literature, [536], [537]
— local conditions in, [544]-[7]
— mountaineering in, [536]-[47]
— — equipment for, [539], [540]
— — expense of, [538], [539]
— — guides for, [540], [541], [542]
— — season for, [537]
— mountains of, [542]-[4]
— routes of access to, [538]
— topography and structure of, [542]-[4]
Norway and Sweden, wind-swept snow in, [408]
Numbers suitable for parties, [34], [35]

Oberaarjoch, the, [463], [464]
Oberland, the, crossed on ski, [397]
— its opportunities and characteristics, [45], [46]
— weather in the, [57]
Obstinacy, hysterical, [28]
Old age, climbing in, [73]
Oppenheim’s New Climbs in Norway cited, [536]
Order, the, on the rope, [227]-[36]
— of moving on the rope, the, [236], [237];
and see under [Rope]
Outfit for the Alps, [91]-[100]
Outram’s In the Heart of the Canadian Rockies cited, [574], [581]
Overhang, in descent, [194], [195]

Pace, adjustment of, to the task, [74]-[9]
— setting the, [37]
Packe’s Guide to the Pyrénées cited, [570]
Paglia Orba, [521]
Palmer’s Mountaineering and Exploration in the Selkirks cited, [578] n., [579]
Panic, [27], [272]
Parasites, body, [484]
Passing ahead, [37], [38]
Paulcke, [397]
Pegs and aids, [96], [200]-[3]
Pennines, characteristics of the, [46]
Perdighero, [561]
Persistence in uncertain weather, [63], [64]
Perversity, mountain, [267]-[72]
Photography, mountain, [471]-[8]
— — choice of subjects, [475]-[7]
— — equipment for, [471]-[5]
— — in colour, [477]
— — stereoscopic, [477]-[8]
Pic d’Albe, [562]
— d’Astazou, [560]
— de Bécibéri, [559]
— d’Enfer, [557]
— Long, [559], [561]
— du Midi d’Ossau, [556], [557]
— Moulières, [562]
— du Munia, [561]
— de Néthou, [559], [562]
— de la Pique, [562]
— de Pinède, [561]
— du Port d’Oo, [561]
— des Posets, [559], [562]
— de Salenques, [562]
Pitons. See under [Pegs]
Port de Venasque, [562]
Positions in descent, [187]-[91]
Powder snow, [326], [327], [405]-[11]
— — effect of sun on, [408]-[11]
— — — wind on, [407], [408]
— — the ideal ski-ing surface, [406]
— — reconnoitring, [374]
— — in spring, [412]-[7], [430]
— — in winter, [411], [412]
Preparations, psychological, for ascent, [129], [130]
Punta di Capella, [520]
Purcell Range, the, [579]-[80]
Putties, [89], [125], [289]
Pyramid Peak, [586]
Pyrenees, the, [556]-[71]
— centres for climbing, [560]
— huts and inns, [566]
— literature of the, [570]
— maps of, [564]-[6]
— mountaineering in, [556], [557], [563]
— — cost of, [569]
— — equipment for, [566]-[9]
— — guides for, [563], [564]
— topography and structure of, [557]-[563]

Quairat, the, [561]
Quarries, scrambling in, for practice, [181]
Quartz, its peculiarities and risks, [179], [180]

Rabot’s Au Cap Nord cited, [542]
Reach, advantages of, in climbing, [71]
Reconnoitring, [370]-[96]
— angle on snow, [375]-[7]
— couloirs, [382]-[4]
— glaciers, [311]-[4], [381], [382]
— the half-seen, [390], [391]
— ice, [374], [381], [382]
— importance of, [370]-[3]
— ridges, [386], [387]
— rock, [384]
— rock faces, [384]-[6]
— rocks in Britain, [388]-[90]
— slabs, [387], [388]
— snow cornices, [377]-[80]
— snow surface conditions, [374], [375]
— the unseen, [391]-[6]
— wind and snow signs, [380], [381]
Réquin, the, [152]
Rescue parties, [266], [267]
Rhone Valley, the upper, [424]
Rhythm, balance, [144], [156], [157]
— collective, [209]-[11]
— of movement, importance of, [140], [141], [143], [145], [148], [156], [157]
— of step, importance of, [39], [40], [41], [76], [77], [78], [79], [145], [148]
Rib riding, [169]
Ring, use of the, [193]
— risks of the, [194], [198]
Ringworm, [484]
Ripple mark, [407]
Roche Miette, the, [587]
Rock avalanche, [271]
Rock climber, the good, [138], [146]-[9], [171]
Rock climbing, [138]-[208]
— — in relation to ice climbing, [282]-[4]
— — development of, [138]-[44]
Rock sky, the, [393]
Rocks, knowledge of structure of, [138]
— in Britain, [388], [389]
Rocky Mountains, access to the, [574], [591]
— — literature of the, [574], [586]
— — maps of the, [576], [579], [581], [585], [586]
— — minor ranges of the, [580]
— — modes and cost of travel in the, [587]-[8]
— — mountaineering in the, [572]-[91]
— — — guides and equipment for, [578], [588]-[90]
— — topography of the, [572]-[87]
Rope, best handgrip on the, [225]
— carrying the, [253]
— choice of the, [93]-[4]
— coiling the, [246], [252], [253]
— in collective climbing, [213]-[7]
— danger of abuse of the, [216], [217]
— drying the, [253]
— first man on the, [237]-[9]
— frequent examination of the, necessity for, [253]
— on ice, [305]-[8]
— kinks in the, [253]
— length of the, [253], [254]
— management of the, [246]-[55]
— order of moving on the, [236]-[7]
— order on the, [227]-[36]
— — on difficult or new ascents and descents, [228]
— — on direct ascents and descents, [227], [228]
— — on easy ascents and descents, [228]
— — on traverses, [229]-[32]
— — with beginners, [233]-[6]
— right use of the, in descent, [191]-[9]
— — on snow, [335]-[7]
— second man on the, [239]-[45]
— third man on the, [245]-[6];
and see under [Doubled], [Knots], [Long], [Funicula], and [Halts]
“Rope-riding,” [217]
Rosenlaui, [461]
Ross’s A Climber in New Zealand cited, [554]
Rubber soles, [155], [182]
Rucksack, the, [5], [91]
Rulten, [545]
Running as training, [4]
Russell’s Grandes Ascensions des Pyrénées cited, [570]
— Souvenirs d’un Montagnard cited, [570]

Safety-pins, [85], [86]
Sandstone, risks and peculiarities of, [180]
Sark, the island of, cliff climbing on, [181]
Schaeffer, Mrs., her Old Indian Trails cited, [584] n.
Schneebrett. See [Wind slab]
Schrader, M., on the Pyrenees, quoted, [557]
Scotland, cliff climbing in, [181], [182]
Scottish mountains, snow craft on, [342]
Scree, [178], [179]
— glissading on, [366], [368]
— in relation to ski-ing, [426]
Sea cliffs, [181], [182]
Sealskins for ski-ing, [402], [449]
Season, habit of the, [62], [63]
Second man on the rope, the, duty of the, [239]-[45]
— — — in case of accident, [262], [263]
Selkirk mountains, the, [577]-[9]
Séracs, [275], [301], [313], [335]
Shirts, [85], [88]
Signals, code of rescue, [51], [266]
Sikkim, [527]
Silence, dangers of, [18], [20], [51], [238]
— uses of, [23], [240]
Simla Hill States, the, [529]
Sitting glissading, [360], [361]
Skagastölstind, [542], [544]
Skating movements, analogous to those of climbing, [156]
Skavla, [408]
Ski, mountaineering on, [397]-[470]
— Lillienfeld, [398]
— for mountain work, [402]
— for summer work, [64], [397], [469], [470]
Ski-ing in the High Alps, [399], [400]
— Lillienfeld system of, [399], [401]
— Norwegian style of, [399]
— technique of, [398]-[401]
— turns, [400], [401]
— Zdarsky’s system of, [398]
Skin diseases, [483]
Skipping as training, [4], [66]
Sky, ice as affecting its tint, [393], [394]
— rock as affecting its tint, [393]
— snow as affecting its tint, [392], [393]
Skye, climbing in, [152]
Slab climbing, [142], [143], [166], [167], [387], [388]
Slate, its peculiarities and risks, [179]
Sleeping sack, [99], [498], [499], [513], [532], [567], [589]
Sleeplessness, [483]
Slides, photographic, [473], [474]
Sling for axe, [93], [298]
Slings, rope, [193], [194]
Slingsby’s Norway the Northern Playground cited, [536]
Slips, how to accept, [41], [42]
Smoking, [89]
Snake-bite, [484]
Snow a bar to starting, [63], [64]
— avalanches, [423]-[42]
— bridges, [337]
— cornices, [338]
— craft, [16], [325]-[46]
— — for ski-ing, [403], [404]
— crusted, [331]
— — reconnoitring, [374]
— granular, [416]
— in couloirs, [340]-[2]
— new, risks of, [327]
— pink, [546]
— powdery, [326], [327];
and see under [Powder snow]
— the rope and axe on, [335]-[7]
— sky, the, [392], [393]
— slides, danger of, [273]-[5]
— slopes, reconnoitring, [375]-[7]
— — security of, [329], [333]-[5]
— soft, its risks and difficulties, [330]-[332]
— spring, for ski-ing, [412]-[7]
— steps, [333], [334]
— summer, for ski-ing, [422], [423]
— travail, [330]-[3]
— winter, for ski-ing, [411], [412]
Snow-blindness, [11], [343]
Snow-line, the, [459]
Snow-water, its supposed danger, [8]
Social composition of a party, [32]-[6], [109], [110], [150]
Socks, [4], [5], [10], [83], [87], [88], [89], [155], [156]
Soles, hard, [153], [154]
— rubber, [155], [182]
— soft, [154], [155], [171], [179], [284]
Solitary climbing, [151], [152]
— — unjustifiable on snow or ice, [315]
Soum de Raymond, [560]
Spectacles. See under [Glasses]
Spender and Llewellyn Smith’s Through the High Pyrenees cited, [570]
Spitsbergen, coast of, [500]-[2]
— glaciers of, [501], [502], [503], [504]
— interior of, [502]-[4]
— modes of access to, [497], [498]
— mountaineering in, [497]-[505]
— — cost of, [505]
— mountains of, [502]-[4]
Spring in the High Alps, [456]-[68]
— snow for ski-ing, [412]-[7]
— Time-table for ski-ing, the, [466]-[8]
Springing the rope, [197], [198]
Stances, on rock, [218], [219], [223]-[7], [246], [247]
— on snow, [336], [337]
— on ice, [298], [306], [307]
Stedtind, [544]
Stemming turn, the, [400], [401]
Step-cutting practice, [182]
Steps, cutting, [294]-[302]
— using, [302]-[5]
Stereoscopic photography, [477], [478]
Stick, use of the, in ski-ing, [399], [400], [401], [442], [450], [454]
Stimulants, their use, [7], [8]
— — in the tropics, [487]
Stockings, [83], [86], [155]
Stomach, care of the, [4], [5], [86], [479], [480], [482]
Stones, dangers of falling, [250], [251], [268]-[73]
— reconnoitring couloirs for, [382]-[4]
— — faces for, [386]
Storm Mountain, [575]
Strahlegg Pass, crossing in winter, [397]
Strandaatind, [543]
Strata, rock, importance of acquaintance with, [383]-[5], [388], [425], [426]
Stutfield and Collie’s Climbs and Explorations in the Canadian Rockies, cited, [575] n., [580] n., [581]
Subconsciousness, sphere of, in mountaineering, [69]
Sulitelma, [544]
Summer ski. See under [Ski]
Sun, dangers of, [11]
Sunburn, [90], [97]
Sunstroke, [12], [482]
Sutherlandshire, cliff climbing in, [181]
Sweater, [86], [88]
Sweet-stuffs, value of, [6], [7]
Swimming as training, [66]

Taillon, the, [557], [560]
Teeth, care of the, [479], [480], [482], [483]
Tehri Garhwal, [529]
Telemark turn, the, [400], [401]
Temper of mountaineering party, the, [19]-[23]
Tennis as training, [4]
Tents, [99], [513];
and see [Equipment]
— for tropics, [491]-[3]
— Mummery, [492], [499], [533]
— teepee, [588]
— Whymper, [491], [532]
Thawing of snow, the, [409], [415], [416]
Thigh brake, the, [195], [196]
Third man on the rope, duty of the, [245]-[6]
Thirst, [7], [8]
Thunderstorms, danger of, [276]
Tirich Mir, [531]
Tour de Marboré, [560]
Tourist, the mountaineer, [112], [113], [118]
Trade goods for tropics, [494], [495]
Training, [65]-[73]
Trap crust, [410]
Tricouni nails for boots, [82], [83]
Tripod for camera, [472], [474]
Tropical diseases, [480], [481]
— mountaineering, [479]-[96]
— — equipment for, [486]-[93]
— — health in, [479]-[86]
— — management of expedition for, [493]-[6]
Tryfan, the buttresses of, [152]

U.H.U. Stollen nails for boots, [82]
Underwear, [88], and see [Equipment]
Unsound rock, [173]-[9]
Unusual rock [179]-[83]
Urbachthal, [424], [457]

Val d’Evoléna, [46]
Vanesta packing-case, the, [493], [494], [532]
Verascope camera, the, [478]
Vertigo, [28]-[31]
Vignemale, the, [557], [561]

Waistcoat, the, [85]
Wales, cliffs in, [142], [152], [181], [182], [391]
— North, snowcraft in, [342]
Walking as training, [4]
— manners, [36]-[41]
— notes on hill-, [41]-[3]
Warmth, the conservation of, [5]
Warning, to give, [257], [258]
Water-bottles, [98]
Waterproof cape, [86]
Weather, the, [56]-[64]
— alternating, [44], [45]
— confusing, [342]-[5]
— evil, [276], [277]
— signs, [60]-[2]
Weight handicaps, [75], [76]
Wet rock, risks of, [169], [170]
Wetterhorn, the, [456], [457]
— — first winter ascent of, [397]
Wheeler’s Selkirk Range, etc., cited, [577]
White’s Sikkim and Bhutan cited, [527]
Wilcox’s Camping in the Canadian Rockies cited, [575] n.
Will, function of, in climbing, [68]
Wind, an enemy, [11], [258], [276], [343]
— a friend, [277], [380], [381]
— as weather portent, [59]-[60]
— effect of, on snow, [326]
— protection against, [5]
Windboard, [407], [408], [432]
Wind ‘signs,’ [380], [381]
Wind slab, [432], [433]
Wine, [7]
Winter conditions in the High Alps, [442]-[56]
— mountaineering, [397]
— snow for ski-ing, [411], [412]
Woman mountaineers, dress for, [89], [90]
Wood-chopping as training, [4]

Young climbers, care of, [13], [14]

Zermatt, weather at, [56], [381]
Zinal Rothhorn, [446], [447], [462]

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