Snow Avalanches
Snow avalanches may be classified either as Ground avalanches or as Superficial avalanches.
Ground Avalanches—the ‘Grundlawinen’ of Continental writers—may be defined as avalanches in which the entire snow surface is stripped off a slope, revealing the underlying earth, grass or rock.
Superficial Avalanches may be defined as avalanches in which a layer of snow, more or less deep, slides off an underlying layer of snow or ice.
Before proceeding to discuss avalanches in general, and to analyse more exactly the various subdivisions of these two principal categories, it is essential to analyse the primary conditions that produce avalanches. Primary conditions may be defined as those which exist before the snow has covered a slope, originally bare of snow. These primary conditions are the contour and gradient of the slope and the nature of the surface that underlies the snow.
No avalanche has yet been observed on slopes whose gradient is less than 23 degrees, though, of course, even level slopes have often been overwhelmed by avalanches falling from steep slopes above.
Other things being equal, the stability of a snow slope depends not only on its gradient, but also on the gradient of the slopes just below and the slopes just above.
A concave slope, for instance, which has an even outflow so that there is no sudden change of gradient and so that the steeper slopes merge gradually into gentle slopes and these gentle slopes into a level outrun, is infinitely safer than a convex slope the higher portions of which are more gradual than the lower portions below. Slopes that steepen suddenly below a comparatively safe gradient should always be treated with great respect.
A slope, whose gradient would be perfectly safe if the slope petered out gradually, may be highly dangerous if the gentler slope ends suddenly in a steep slope, for the snow on the gentle slope is, so to speak, ‘in the air.’ It has lost the natural support which is afforded by a gradual concave base leading out on to the level, and there is a reasonable chance of the weight of the snow on the safer slope proving just too much to stand the strain at the point where the slope steepens. In general concave slopes are safer than convex slopes, and slopes where the gradient steadily diminishes towards the base are safer than those in which the gradient increases before the base is reached. Of course, any slope overhanging a cliff is always to be treated with very great care, as even a superficial snow slide which would be quite innocuous if the slope ended on easy safe ground may prove fatal if it carries the ski-runner to the edge of a cliff below.
The chance of surviving an avalanche depends greatly on the nature of the ground where the avalanche comes to rest. Many ski-runners have escaped unhurt after being carried down several hundred feet because they have managed to keep on the surface of the avalanche and because the avalanche has gradually spread out fan-shaped on open, gentle slopes. But an avalanche falling into the bed of a narrow V-shaped valley with steep sides is almost certain to prove fatal, for the victim of this avalanche will be buried by the snow falling above, and this snow will fill up the narrow bed of the valley and freeze solid instantaneously by pressure. Thus all narrow valleys such as the Urbachthal, or the upper Rhone valley between Gletsch and Oberwald, should only be ascended when the snow is thoroughly safe.
An analogous case is where a tributary ridge runs across a hillside. An avalanche falling down this hillside will pile itself up against the tributary ridge and a ski-runner will probably be crushed below the avalanche, squeezed in between the tributary ridge and the main slope. Often a large moraine fulfils these conditions, so that an avalanche falling from a neighbouring slope is arrested at the moraine and piled up against it.
Similarly, if you are caught by an avalanche while ascending a gully, your chance of escape is much greater if the gully widens below the point where the avalanche overwhelms you. If it contracts, the pressure of the snow forcing its way through a narrow space may crush you to death. Compare the account of the avalanche that killed Bennen quoted in Scrambles in the Alps.
The bottom of a valley is not only dangerous for reasons just stated, but also because the stream at the bottom of a valley often exercises, especially in spring, an undercutting effect on the snow slopes that end in the stream bed.
The nature of the underlying surface, apart from its contour and gradient, is a factor of vital importance, especially in the early winter and in the spring. At intervening periods most avalanches are superficial, and slide from an underlying surface of hard snow; but in the early winter and in the late spring the whole snow slope slides away, so that the nature of the underlying surface and the probable support that it affords is of great importance.
Steep grass-slopes form a dangerous under-surface, especially where it is never or seldom mown; for long unmown grass generally lies facing downwards, and offers a most slippery surface.
Grass which is regularly mown is usually short and stubby in winter, and gives better purchase to the snow. A slope covered by stony boulders, bushes or trees is usually fairly safe, though a big avalanche, once it is fairly under weigh, will sweep over shrubs and even over small trees. Fairly dense wood may usually be considered as safe, provided one avoids the long open clearings made by old avalanches, which so often run down the middle of a forest.
An elementary knowledge of geology is useful; the excellent geological maps published by the Swiss Survey can often be consulted with benefit. Rocks which suffer much surface disintegration provide a better purchase for snow than very hard and consequently very smooth rocks. The hard ‘Hochgebirgskalk,’ an alpine variety of limestone, which is very common, especially in high regions, is slippery, and instead of disintegrating gradually, as gneiss or granite disintegrates, has a habit of breaking away along vertical and horizontal joints.
The common rock known as ‘Flysch,’ common in the lower Alps, provides a much safer surface.
Glacier-polished rocks are, of course, especially dangerous, and the whole Grimsel region is consequently swept by avalanches throughout the winter.
The lie of the strata is an important factor. Where, as is usually the case, the strata are inclined, one slope of a mountain will usually be safer than the other. Diagrams I and II represent the north and south slopes of a ridge running more or less east and west. The ridge is formed by parallel but inclined bands of strata. Rock climbers know that the slope in Diagram I, though of the same gradient as the slope in Diagram II, is very much more difficult to climb. It is also much more liable to avalanche, as the outcrop of the strata provide a natural check to avalanches in Diagram II; whereas in Diagram I each outcrop forms a small steep snow slope quite unsupported. If the outcrops are of reasonable breadth, there will be belts running across the face of the slope at A’, B’, C’, D’ which will be inclined into the slope, and provide a safe line of traverse; whereas there is no safe line for a ski-runner desiring to traverse or ascend the slope A, B, C, D.
Diagram I.
Diagram II.
Geological maps indicate the ‘strike’ of the strata, and therefore provide useful clues as to the varying liability of slopes to avalanche.
Loose scree guarantees the ski-runner against ground avalanches, but, as the winter advances, loose scree is soon covered with deep snow, from which later layers of snow can slide uninfluenced by the underlying scree. In fact, as the winter advances, the original underlying surface plays a smaller part in the problem of avalanches. Hard-crusted snow covered by soft snow is especially dangerous, and of course ice, as is so often met with in the High Alps, is the worst under-surface of all. Fortunately, snow often attaches itself firmly to ice, transforming an ice slope into a snow slope.
The conditions necessary for this transformation will be explained on pp. [426-427].
So far we have dealt with primary conditions, the nature of the ground before the snow has begun to fall and the gradient of the slope from which the avalanche slides. An important factor is the quantity of snow on the slope. It often happens that a shallow superficial layer detaches itself and carries a ski-runner down the slope. If the slope ends on gentle ground, no damage is done beyond the loss of height and the consequent waste of time and effort in reascending to the spot from which the avalanche started. But if the snow slide carries the ski-runner over a cliff or into a bergschrund or crevasse, it is clearly immaterial to the ski-runner whether his original snow slide was 1 inch or 6 feet in thickness.
I propose to use the word SNOW SLIDE for such small avalanches as are only dangerous where they carry the ski-runner on to dangerous ground, such as the edge of a precipice, and to reserve the word AVALANCHE for avalanches deep enough in themselves to overwhelm and possibly to kill a ski-runner.
Though a very small layer of snow—an inch or even less—is enough to produce a snow slide, especially if the shallow layer rests on ice, the amount of snow necessary to produce a real avalanche is much greater, and varies very much with the quality of the snow.