The High Alps in Spring
There is a fascination about the High Alps in winter that is unique. Never are the great peaks so icily aloof, the silences of the glaciers so inviolate. No moon compares with the full moon of January shining on some great glacier causeway; no views are clearer than the summit panorama of February. None the less, winter is not the proper season for ski tours in the High Alps. It is true that the rock ridges are usually free from snow in the winter and corniced in spring, so that for expeditions which combine ski-ing with more or less difficult rock climbing, winter is preferable to spring. At the same time, it is possible to exaggerate this point. An ardent champion of winter mountaineering once cited to me the Lyskamm as a mountain that could not be climbed in May owing to cornices. Unfortunately for his case, the Lyskamm had been climbed in May. I have known the cornice on the Wetterhorn almost invisible in May, whereas in many winters it is quite formidable.
Still we may concede that rock ridges are certainly far easier in February than in May, and cornices in general much larger in spring than in winter.
And of course the snowline is lower in winter than in spring; but, as we shall try to prove, this is not of very great importance.
The winter is the season for ski tours of modest length. It is the season for what may be called sub-alpine ski-ing. (We need some handy expression in English for the most useful German word Mittelgebirge.) Spring, on the other hand, is eminently suitable for ski tours in the High Alps.
The best month for glacier ski-ing is May. June is also excellent. Indeed, from about the middle of May to the middle of June is, on the average, as good a month as any in the year for glacier ski-ing.
February is usually the best of the winter months, and May is the best month for spring ski-ing. May is, among other things, usually fine. April is almost always stormy; but the weather usually mends at the end of April, and a long spell of perfect weather is as common in May as in February.
Let us then compare ski-ing among the glaciers in May and in February from the point of view of (1) Safety; (2) Quality of ski-ing; (3) Effort; (4) Scenery.
(1) Safety.—The shortness of the days and the great variations of temperature, from mild and equable to bitterly cold, all add an element of danger to the High Alps in February. A small mishap may have very serious consequences. A broken leg half-way down Monte Rosa or the Wetterhorn probably means a night in the open, and a night in the open may mean a fatal ending. The sudden changes of weather, the storms that rise in a night and last for days, all make February ski-ing among the glaciers a sport with its own dangers. In May all these risks are reduced almost to vanishing-point. A broken leg is a broken leg in February or in May, but a night in the open in May should have no permanent effect on any but a very badly wounded climber.
We have already dealt with avalanches. Here we need only repeat that though avalanches are of daily occurrence in May, an experienced party has no difficulty in avoiding them. They have a regular time-table, and, provided one times one’s ascent or descent so as to avoid crossing certain slopes at certain hours, one is absolutely safe. In winter, avalanches can fall at any hour of the day, under certain circumstances, and at any temperature. To take a concrete example: the Gauli hut. This hut lies at the head of a very steep and narrow valley, the Urbachthal. In winter one would never be quite safe in this valley. A sudden wind might rise and bring down a powder avalanche; and even in steady weather the risk of a powder avalanche from the very steep sides of this valley is never entirely absent.
In spring one leaves Meiringen before midnight, climbs this valley at night, and, provided the weather is fine, one is absolutely safe; for in spring, avalanches fall in the afternoon and never fall at night, save when the Föhn is blowing. And when the Föhn is blowing the ski-runner stays at home, or remains in a club hut.
Finally, the glaciers are not oversafe in winter, for reasons explained on pp. [448-449]. In May all save very badly crevassed glaciers can be descended on ski by an unroped party, without greater risks than those which must be faced by every bold pedestrian that crosses Piccadilly Circus. The crevasses are never so securely bridged as in spring.
(2) Quality of the Ski-ing.—In winter it is the exception to find good snow in the High Alps. The wind, as has already been explained, spoils the snow on all exposed slopes. But in May the wind is powerless, for the first fine day and hot sun will melt the snow so thoroughly that all traces of wind action during the snowfall will entirely disappear. Thenceforward the wind is powerless, for the wind cannot churn up the heavy melted snow of spring, still less the hard crust which is found in the early morning.
Snow in spring is hard crust in the early morning, Telemark crust up to midday or later on high north slopes. In the afternoon it is usually soft and heavy, but in the evening it once again yields fine ski-ing.
The ski-runner who visits the High Alps in winter can form no forecast as to the possible conditions of the snow, for the snow is dependent on the direction and on the strength of the winds that have blown since the snow fell. It is therefore a matter of chance whether the snow is good or bad, for nobody can foretell the conditions which depend on such a fickle element as the wind. The longer fine weather endures in winter, the greater the chance that the snow will be spoiled. In spring the reverse is the case. The more often snow is melted and refrozen the better it becomes. In general, provided the weather remains fine, the spring ski-runner can count almost with certainty on perfect ski-ing and perfect snow.
An important point in favour of spring is the fact that one usually gets good ski-ing for every foot that one climbs on snow. In winter the summit snow slopes are often so windswept, that the ski are left some distance below the actual top and the final ascent is made on foot. In spring the snow is just as good on the most exposed summit slope as lower down. I have started spring or summer ski descents from the actual summits of such peaks as the Dom, Ebnefluh, Galmihorn, etc. This is an important advantage, and more than counterbalances the fact that the snowline is higher in May than in February; for though one may lose a thousand feet of ski-ing on the last day, one more than balances this loss by the fact that good ski-ing is obtained from the highest limit of the snow.
The snowline in May usually extends down to 5000 feet. I have spent three May months in the Alps, and I have always been able to get good ski-ing well on to the middle of May down to about 5500 feet, and sometimes lower. In narrow valleys the remains of spring avalanches survive into the summer. I have skied in the middle of June below 6000 feet in the Gredetschthal, and I have often, in the middle or end of June, obtained first-class ski-ing below 7000 feet.
Of course the height of the snowline is of no very great importance if, as is usually the case, one spends four or five days on the glaciers. One can sacrifice a thousand or two thousand feet of ski-ing on the last day with complete composure if one is certain, as one is never certain in winter, that one will get really good ski-ing for every foot of snow slope that one climbs.
(3) Effort.—Much less energy is expended on a spring than on a winter ski tour. In winter most of the climbing is done on ski. Tracks have to be made in the soft snow; a gradual zigzag course has to be taken; time is wasted over ‘kick turns.’
In spring one climbs on foot or on crampons. The ski are dragged behind on string. On level or gentle slopes the weight of the ski is almost imperceptible if they are pulled along on string. On steep slopes they are by no means a great hindrance. It is surprising what can be accomplished by a man who is dragging instead of carrying ski. I have seen Knubel climb a short but very steep snow and ice wall in which he had to cut half a dozen handholds, and on which he had to steady himself with one hand while he cut hand and foot holes with the axe held in his right hand. Meanwhile his ski were dangling on string—attached to his waist—over the bergschrund below.
The ski should, of course, always be secured by two strings in case one breaks.
In spring on hard snow one climbs very nearly as fast dragging one’s ski as one would climb without ski, and from 50-100 per cent faster than one would climb if one was forced to ascend the same slope on ski with soft winter snow.
The saving of effort is as remarkable as the saving of time, for it is much easier to climb direct on foot than to zigzag up soft snow on ski.
Apart from the upper snows, the approaches to the High Alps are easier in spring than in winter. The snow at night is nearly always hard in May. The narrow valleys, filled with soft powder snow, are covered with a firm groundwork of hard crust in spring. The climb to the club hut is usually done at night or in the early morning. Though the snow lies down to five thousand feet well on into the middle or end of May, so that the ski descent can be prolonged down to very low levels, it is usually possible to pick a route up snow-free slopes (either on southern or south-westerly or south-easterly slopes) far higher than the lowest levels of the snowline. Paths can be utilized instead of snow slopes, more especially if the peasants have begun to tramp out the paths for their own purposes. The long detours, often necessary in winter, to avoid dangerous avalanche slopes are needless in spring, for such slopes can always be crossed with safety at night when the snow is crusted.
(4) Scenery.—I have tried to show that the High Alps yield better and safer ski-ing in May than in winter. Even if this were not so, May would possess a charm for the mountaineer that no other month affords. It is perhaps idle to compare the rival beauties of the four great alpine seasons, for, even if one season could be proved paramount, the true mountaineer would wish to study the mountains in all their moods. The icy virginity of the High Alps in winter reveals secrets that are hidden in spring and in summer.
None the less, if it be permitted to state a preference, I for one should give my vote to May months. Contrast is the greater teacher, and May is the month of contrasts. I think of moments when one stepped on to a high ridge after hours among the burning snow-fields of May, and looked down, with a shock of surprise, on to the valleys dressed in a green that was different, transfigured, miraculous—a green that the valley-dweller has never seen. I think of quiet evenings after long days among the snows, when one strolled down through the scented pines with one’s ski on one’s back and the music of a perfect run still echoing in one’s heart—of the Dollfuss in May, a little oasis of green young turf covered with gentian and anemone in a wilderness of burning snow and granite ridges. I think of a sunset hour just above Rosenlaui, following four perfect days among the May glaciers, the foreground of marsh-marigolds a sheet of flame, and the whole valley one full-throated chorus of spring. Running water is always beautiful, but there is no music in all the harmonies of Nature to compare with mountain torrents in spring after days among the dead silence of the upper snows. Such are the contrasts that reward the mountaineer in May. Within the compass of dawn and sunset he can live through the cycle of the seasons, can pass from winter to spring, can enjoy the best that snow yields to the ski-runner, and the chiefest rewards that the hills yield to those that explore them when the great rebirth of colour and music has finally prevailed over the stubborn obstinacy of the retreating snows.
In order to understand the conditions that prevail in the High Alps in spring, the effect of sun on snow and the various habits of sun-formed and sun-melted crust must be grasped. These are dealt with on pp. [412-417]. Avalanches are analysed on pp. [423-438]. All that now remains is to consider the application of the principles laid down to the various months of spring.
March.
The winter of the calendar ends officially on 23 March, and the calendar spring lasts from 24 March to 23 June. None the less March, whatever the calendar may say, is winter in the High Alps. The snow, unless disturbed by wind, remains powdery on all north slopes and gentle south slopes. March is often a month of snowstorms, though occasionally it is distinguished by really fine weather. On the whole, however, it cannot be said to be a good month for glacier ski-ing, though, on the other hand, the days are longer than in February. The sun is stronger and the crevasses more securely bridged.
April.
April marks the transition from winter to spring. As a rule, April is marked in the Alps by frequent storms, varied by periods of wet Föhn. Occasionally one gets a week of really good weather and fine ski-ing, even at very low altitudes, and it often happens that the last week in April is perfect succeeding to a long period of snowstorms. But as a rule good weather is less common in April than in any month of the alpine year.
The snow itself varies. Powder snow is found on north slopes at high altitudes. South slopes are usually crusted. The crust varies a great deal, and resembles, in general, the crust found in winter at low altitudes. In other words, April crust on the glaciers is usually marble crust in the early mornings. The law, explained on p. [414], “The milder the frost the better the crust,” often gives the clue to timing a successful descent. As one descends on an early morning in April the crust usually improves.
As a rule, the sun is strong enough to melt the crust just before or just after midday, and in this case you get perfect running on Telemark crust. Owing to the lower temperature the snow remains good much longer than in May. In fact, at high altitudes it seldom becomes completely thawed, so that the ski-ing on April afternoons is usually better than on May afternoons.
It is important to notice that when, as in spring and summer, the sun remains above the horizon after 6 p.m., the northern slopes will be in the sun after the southern slopes have lost the sun, for the sun at 6 p.m. is due west and after 6 p.m. is north of west. Of course, as the sun is low in the sky only north slopes that are not shut in by neighbouring slopes will keep the sun.
If a north wind is blowing, the snow on north slopes, previously crusted by sun and frost, may remain quite unmelted throughout the day. I have found hard slippery crust in the late afternoon at the end of April just below the rocks of the Zinal Rothhorn, with the result that the ski-ing was most unpleasant. A bitter north wind was blowing at the time. So, too, south slopes when the north wind is blowing may resist the sun, and though they will not, like north slopes, remain really hard, they will not be thoroughly melted.
If you are lucky enough to get fine weather, April ski-ing is often delightful. After a few days of sun traces of wind action disappear from all slopes, save perhaps north slopes at very high altitudes. Telemark crust towards midday, and even later, and salt snow or hypo snow (p. [417]) as you descend from the glaciers to the lower regions, are characteristic of April ski-ing.
It may be necessary to time your descent to the valley so as to pass a dangerous slope before the sun has struck it. With ordinary caution an experienced party should run no risk whatever of being caught by an avalanche; but it is undeniable that inexperienced parties come to grief more frequently in April than in any other month. This does not prove that the avalanche danger is really greater, but only that it is greater for the inexperienced.
May.
In May newly fallen snow usually remains powdery for one or two days on north slopes, and even longer at high altitudes. But, in general, powder snow is the exception in May. At high altitudes you will find hard marble crust in the early morning. At lower altitudes you will usually find ‘film crust’ and ‘perforated crust.’ For the formation of these excellent running surfaces, see p. [414].
The main difference between marble crust on the one hand, and either film crust or perforated crust on the other hand, is that the former is too slippery to give the ski purchase, whereas film or perforated crust is a splendid surface for Stemming turns or Christianias.
As a rule, in spring one descends after the sun has softened the crust. Whether the original morning crust was hard and slippery, or covered by a film or perforated crust, does not matter once the sun has melted its surface.[24] In any case, there will be a period of ski-ing on Telemark crust (p. [415]). The main importance of film or perforated crust is its value when you have to begin a descent before the sun has softened the snow. I remember starting one morning just after the dawn from the Oberaarjoch. I intended to ski down to the Grimsel and thence to climb the Galenstock, and I hoped to go from the Oberaarjoch hut to the Furka between dawn and sunset, taking the Galenstock en route. It was obvious that an early start was necessary. At that date I had done little ski-ing in June, and I fully expected that the top slopes of the Oberaarjoch would be covered by very hard and slippery marble crust. To my great surprise the crust, though hard, was covered by a beautiful film of soft, transparent brittle ice. As the ski swung round on a turn, this soft film peeled away and rustled down the slope with a soft splashing sound. No surface could be finer. Straight running was absolutely safe on the even, unchanging gradients of those summit slopes. There were no hidden rocks or hidden crevasses to fear. The film crust was absolutely true. There was no risk of running into a soft sticky patch or a windswept pocket. One could run as fast as one liked, secure in the knowledge that at any moment one could stop by a long-drawn-out Christiania. On really steep slopes one could link a succession of sweeping Christianias, the loveliest of all conceivable turns, and on gentle slopes one could run straight. The soft film gave an excellent purchase and prevented the ski side-slipping helplessly as one began to turn, for the ski cut in under the film and peeled it away.
Until a man has skied down from some glacier pass at dawn on film crust he has yet to learn the best that ski-ing can yield. That run from the Oberaarjoch stands out as one of the finest runs of my life. The great charm of film crust is that fast running can be combined with absolute safety, for a dangerous fall is almost impossible on this surface. I remember that we took twenty minutes from the pass to the snout of the glacier, and duly arrived at Gletsch after taking the Galenstock en route before sunset.
Perforated crust is harder and firmer than film crust. On very steep slopes it is a little too slippery, but on anything below 25 degrees it gives perfect running.
In May film crust and perforated crust are common in the early morning, and marble crust is unusual. After fresh snow one finds all sorts of shades of snow from pure winter snow to film crust, but a few days of cloudless weather is usually sufficient to change powder into crust on all but very high north slopes.
June.
June differs mainly from May in that the snowline is higher and that winter snow is even more uncommon. Film crust and perforated crust is the rule at all save high altitudes and just after fresh snow.
As a rule the snow is even better in June than in May. The more frequently spring snow is melted and refrozen the better it becomes. Old snow that has passed through this process again and again acquires a granular and crystalline character. It does not melt so thoroughly. Provided there is no touch of Föhn in the air, it retains this crystalline form even when it is melted. In June the snow remains good for ski-ing much later in the day than in May, even though the sun is higher in the sky. In May the period of transition from wet snow to crust is very sudden. One moment the snow is wet and heavy, and half an hour later the first crust has formed. In June there is often a well-marked intermediate period when the snow gradually gets colder and more crystalline. This granular snow is very fast and very true, and suitable for every kind of turn and swing at high speed. On May evenings the soft crust is very pleasant, but it is a little too soft and the snow underneath the crust is a little too woolly; but in June when the sun goes off the slopes the snow becomes crystalline, cold, fast and just compact enough to prevent the ski sinking in too deep.
In June the lower limits of the névé often show signs of furrowing. The action of the sun forms ridges and furrows producing a wavy effect. These ridges are unpleasant to ski on or to ski over when the snow is hard, but quite harmless when the snow has begun to soften. On steep slopes the ridges run roughly parallel with the fall of the slope. On the level the snow is divided into numberless little hillocks with corresponding holes.
The action is similar on a small scale to the erosive action of water on a large scale. Water furrows an even mountain side with gullies and a more or less level plain with intersecting ravines that produce a series of hills. And just as in the geological cycle the last stage of a mountainous country is a peneplane, so on snow the action of the sun acts on the ridges and hillocks formed by previous action of the sun and once again reduces the surface to a plain. I have seen in winter one heavy rainstorm furrow the hillsides with miniature ridges and a level snow slope with miniature hillocks, and I have seen the next rainstorm—which followed two days later—erode the ridges and hillocks formed by the first storm and once again produce slopes of even contour and levels unbroken by hillocks.