Re-footing made Easy.
A Hand-knit Sock showing the replaceable foot sections, and the method of reinforcing the heel.
This method of knitting hose renders it an easy matter to repair the heel and toe when these parts become worn. By simply undoing the end stitch of a row of crochet chain stitches, the sole, heel, or toe part can be almost instantly removed by pulling the thread and undoing the crochet. The chain stitches are used to join the different parts, which are worked separately and then joined together.
When the worn part is removed, a piece exactly the same size is knitted and joined to the remainder of the sock with the row of chain stitches. In this way the leg and instep portions, which seldom wear out, may be made to serve for two or three renewals of the parts exposed to wear.
It is just as easy to knit a sock or stocking in the new way as in the old, and the saving effected by the new way is great, especially now, when woollen thread is both scarce and expensive. The same may be said about cotton thread.
The sock or stocking is begun in the usual way, and may be made either plain or ribbed.
The sock illustrated is a full-size man’s sock, and the joinings are shown in the dark line round the heel, along the side of the foot, and across the instep at the beginning of the front toe part.
These joinings were made in black thread on the white sock in order to show the joinings, but in making a sock they must all be worked with the same thread as in the sock. Then the joinings are not visible on the outside, nor is there a seam on the inside, as the row of chain stitches forms a flat line.
Working the Leg.
In the sock shown here 80 st were cast on three No. 12 knitting-needles. On these were worked 4 inches of ribbing—1 plain, 1 purl. Then 5 inches of plain knitting with a back seam.
The Instep.
Divide for the heel, putting 20 st at each side of the back seam, all on one needle. Divide the 39 remaining st on to the two needles, and continue knitting on these (leaving the heel needle for the present), knit and purl alternate rows until the piece is 6 inches long. Put the 39 st on one needle, and leave this part aside for the present.
The Heel.
Cast on 41 st on a needle in “slip loops,” that is, wind the thread once round the top of the thumb, and take over the loop so formed on to the needle.
Renewing Worn Portions.
Knit the 41 loops, purling the 21st for the back seam, which is preserved for the entire heel.
Purl the next row, then knit and purl alternate rows until there are 24 rows in all.
Closing the Heel.
1st Row.—Knit to the 9th st after the back seam, slip the 10th st, k next stitch, pull the slipped stitch over, k 1, turn (leaving 8 st).
2nd Row.—Slip 1st st and pull back to the 10th after the back seam, purl 10th and 11th together, purl next st, turn and repeat these 2 rows until all the stitches at each side have been taken in. Cut the thread, leaving a short end attached.
The Sole.
There should now be 24 st at each side of the heel, and 23 along the top of it. Cast on a number equal to these, 71, with the “slip loops.” K and p alternate rows for 4 rows. Then decrease in every plain row in the 3rd and 4th st from each end, thus:—k 2, sl 1, k 1, pass the slipped st over, k to the 4th st from the end, k 4th and 3rd together, k 2.
Continue until the stitches are reduced to 39, to correspond with the stitches on the instep.
Knit this piece until it is exactly the same length as the instep portion.
How the new Toe and Heel for a Machine-knit Sock are worked.
The Toe.
Take two additional needles, cast on 20 st on one, and 19 on the other, following after those on the sole needle, making the “slip loops” as before. Join round, and k 2 rows plain.
Decrease in the next round thus:—k first 2 on the sole needle, sl 1, k 1, pass the slipped st over, k to the 4th st from the end of this needle, k 3rd and 2nd together, k 2.
Knit first 2 st on next needle, sl 1, k 1, pass the slipped st over, k remainder of needle, k next needle to the last 4 st, k 4th and 3rd st together, k 2.
Knit 6 rounds. Decrease as before.
Knit 5 rounds. Decrease. Knit 4 rounds. Decrease.
Knit 3 rounds. Decrease.
Knit 2 rounds. Decrease.
Decrease in every 2nd round until there are 11 st remaining on the sole needle. Put back and front needles together, and taking a corresponding stitch from each needle, cast off 2 together. Draw the thread through last loop and cut it, leaving a short end.
The Method of Joining.
Commencing at the back part of the leg portion, place the heel in position, having the wrong sides turned towards you.
With a No. 1 steel crochet hook, make a chain on the end of the thread, insert the hook through the 1st st on the heel, and through the 1st st on the needle of the leg portion, draw a loop through these 2 together, and through the chain on the hook, insert the hook through the next st on the heel, slip off the joined st on the needle, insert the hook through the next st on the needle, draw a loop through the 2 st and the loop on the needle, repeat to the end of the needle, then take up the foot part, and put it in place on the heel. Join in the same way, inserting the hook through corresponding stitches. Continue up the side, across the instep and along to the heel again. Fasten the thread, leaving about an inch of it. Work the end into the following stitches to conceal it.
It can be readily seen that when any part is worn and requires to be renewed, the joining thread can be cut and unravelled as far as required.
To Renew the Toe Portion.
Undo the chain stitches along the front, cut the sole part in a line with the front, unpick the threads to get an even line of stitches, pick these up on a needle, and knit the toe piece exactly like the first one. Join to the front in the same manner.
To Reinforce the Heel and Toe.
It is not generally known that these parts can be so reinforced that their durability is prolonged two or three times. The best method of doing this is shown in the sock illustrated.
“Star Sylko” No. 5, matching the colour of the sock, is worked into the lines of knitted stitches, using a darning needle for the purpose.
Take up one side of each st on the needle, draw the thread through, working in perpendicular rows, come back on the other side of the stitches down to where the 1st row was commenced, and so on. In this way the cotton thread is all on the outside of the woollen knitting, and receives all the friction from the shoe, while it never comes next to the skin. The dark strip down the heel shows where the strengthening stitches have been worked in.
To Re-Knit a Heel and Toe into a Machine-Knit Sock.
In the machine-knit sock the heel and toe are not made in the same way as in most of the hand-knit variety, but usually on the lines of the illustration at bottom of page. In the case of the heel, a portion of the leg has been worked to show how the heel is made straight on to this.
Repairing Machine-made Socks.
Cut away the heel at its base to the 1st decreasing st. Make a cut across the sole next the heel in a line with the 3rd decreasing at each side.
Turn back 3 rows under the sole, where they must be secured with a flat seam, using a piece of the same kind of thread and a darning needle. Pick up the stitches at the base of the heel on to a knitting needle. Fasten the thread and knit a row. Then purl and knit alternate rows, taking the first 2 st together in every row until the st are reduced to one-third of those in the 1st row.
Continue working a plain and a purl row alternately on these stitches, increasing by picking up a loop at the end of each row from the side of the flap just worked, until you have closed the heel, and have the original number of stitches on the needle. Join to the sole part with a row of crochet chain stitches.
The Toe Part.
This is worked exactly like the heel, picking up one-half of the st round the foot part. Knit the toe part as in the heel, working back to close the toe in the same way, then join to the front part with a row of chain stitches.
Band boxes covered with chintz to match the hangings give a pretty touch to a room. A large bow of plain colour serves to lift the lid. The waste paper receptacle matches the box.