Conrad Vollertsen, Rochester, N. Y.
Mr. President, Ladies and Gentlemen of this Convention: I have been approached by a member of the Northern Nut Growers' Association to prepare a paper to be read at this convention on the growing, cultivating, and propagating of the European hazel, together with such other topics on the subject, as would be of interest to the members of this association, particularly my experience and observations during the last three or four seasons in my hazel orchard and nursery.
Now, Ladies and Gentlemen, I am not a public speaker nor a public writer; my business is nursery and garden work; I can use spade and pick more freely than pen and ink, and, therefore, fear that I am not the right party called upon, knowing as I do, that we have members in this association far more capable and experienced, and who possess more knowledge about the European hazel than ever I had. Nevertheless as the growing and planting of the European hazel in the eastern and middle states of our country so far, both for ornamental or commercial purposes, has been more or less experimental, I think all practical information on the subject should be welcomed, and therefore I have consented to prepare this paper and hope it will be accepted for what it stands.
A number of years ago, after leaving school, I entered a large nursery and garden establishment in Germany, as an apprentice boy, to learn the garden business, to become a gardener and horticulturist, to learn how to raise trees and other plants, to learn how to graft, to prune and cultivate, and, in general, to take care of all kinds of growing plants. One of the first duties bestowed upon me in my new place was the charge of a large plot of young hazel or filbert plants. To prune or graft them? Not at all. At that time I did not know anything about such skilled labor. I was merely told to weed and hoe them and to keep them clean. It was not just very elegant work, but, ladies and gentlemen, I enjoyed very much indeed, every minute so employed among those young filbert bushes. I became really attached to them and knew practically every plant in the plot, and almost believe they knew me, too.
Now what was the reason for this immense pleasure I found in working among those plants? Was it perhaps from the commercial or financial point of view, the future income from them for fruit or when the plants reached a saleable age? Not at all. I was then too much of a boy and did not comprehend such a thing as that. It was merely the fond and pleasant recollection of my childhood, of my boyhood, when, together with other children, in the proper season, we went hunting for the common hazel nuts, the Corylus avellana, as the gathering of these nuts is one of the greatest pleasures of the German country child, and to roam through fields and woods in late summer in those beautiful September days, when the foliage of trees and bushes begin to color, when the birds of the garden, field and forest begin to assemble for future migration, when goldenrod, asters and other field flowers are reaching their greatest beauty, then, ladies and gentlemen, the hazelnut has reached maturity. The nut itself is a very beautiful brown color, the outer bark a golden yellow, the leaves of the plants slightly colored with bronze, pink or yellow, a most beautiful combination, a pleasure to look upon, and a sight never to be forgotten. Whoever has had an opportunity to see and admire a well fruited hazel plant, at the time of maturity, will agree with me that it is a thing of beauty, not only during the fruit bearing season, but in fact throughout the whole winter, with the handsome staminate flowers or catkins appearing very abundantly in early fall, and remaining throughout the winter, until late spring. Of all these pleasures, these beautiful sights, etc., of which a vivid and fond recollection caused all the pleasures in cultivating the above mentioned hazel lot, we need not be deprived in our otherwise so richly blest country. It is true that, at the present time, we have no American native hazel, that can fully compete with the better European varieties, but we hope that in time not far off, through scientific hybridization, such will be produced. For the time being, we have some very fine European varieties as a substitute, which for years have stood the test very well, and should be planted wherever a place can be spared for a few of them, and great pleasure and enjoyment will be the result. So much for the pleasure of raising hazel nuts. I have related the foregoing merely to show the lasting pleasure and enjoyments derived from the planting, cultivating and gathering of a few European hazel nuts.
But to raise hazel nuts for the pleasure of it only, would be a very poor business proposition, and certainly not a paying one. What we should do is to raise them in large quantities, for commercial purposes, but here it seems to me the question should be asked: Have we had experience enough as to recommend the planting of them in the middle and eastern states for commercial purposes? In other words, is it worth while to plant them with that point in view? Now, gentlemen, I do not suppose that any one of us, at the present time, would be fully capable or prepared to answer this question intelligently or positively, as the planting of the hazel, for commercial purposes, has not been tried long enough, at least not in the eastern or middle states, to warrant a positive opinion on the subject. A great deal depends upon the variety planted, also the location where the planting is done. Much observation and experimenting is still required.
I have growing on my ground in western New York, near Rochester, several hundred trees or bushes, 6 to 8 years old, about 20 varieties, most of them German varieties, a few from France, and a few from England. They have been bearing nuts the last four seasons, and all have reached maturity perfectly. The smaller and medium sized nuts appeared to bear a little better than the larger varieties. The varieties received from France have, so far, not done well with me, as the German varieties. They are poor bearers. In the fall of 1917, I gathered from each 5 to 6 year old tree, of the German variety, about a pound and a quarter of the medium sized nuts, while hardly a pound from the larger fruited varieties (same sized plants) ripened well. I was then under the impression that the hazel not only could but should be planted in large numbers for commercial purpose. In the fall of 1918 my crop of nuts was very much less, and I had expected even a better harvest than in 1917, which certainly was discouraging to me. The plants themselves were growing beautifully, but most of the staminate blossoms or catkins were frozen, and, consequently, very little pollenizing was accomplished, and very little fruit the result. Such and possibly other occurrences, from time to time we may expect and look for, and should be ready to investigate thoroughly, before we can advocate or recommend the planting of the hazel extensively.
It really seems strange that while the hazel generally is at home in the northern latitudes, it should partly freeze when the thermometer reaches say about 12 to 18 degrees below zero, and, as I had never noticed that before, it then occurred to me that possibly another reason could be found, why so many of the catkins were frozen.
Through my investigation in the spring of 1918, I have come to the conclusion that the unusually wet season in our vicinity of western New York throughout 1917 caused the hazel plants to grow until the real cold weather was upon them, which gave the wood a very poor chance to ripen, particularly the terminal buds, where a great many of the catkins had formed, and caused not only them to freeze but also a certain part of the wood. Only the lower and more protected catkins came through the winter alright and caused what little pollenizing was done, hence the very light harvest in the fall of 1918.
Should the results of my investigation prove true, and the continuance of the wet weather prove the main cause of freezing so many catkins, then it seems to me there is nothing to be alarmed about, and the planting of the European hazel, at least in this vicinity, for commercial purposes could be conscientiously recommended, and should be done, the sooner the better. We do not expect our apple or pear orchards to bear an abundant crop every year, and we should not expect it of our hazel orchards. Something will occasionally happen to them as well as to other crops, otherwise we run no risk whatever.
My trees or bushes, several hundred in number, planted in 1912 and later, have stood all kinds of weather, extreme cold, very hot, continuous wet, and still are growing most beautifully at the present time. They gave a very satisfactory crop of nuts this last fall, 1919, in spite of severe freezing weather on April 25th and 26th when the mercury dropped to 12 to 15 degrees, and all hazel bushes in full bloom. At the present time the prospect for a good crop of nuts next season is certainly very bright.
Neither fungus, blight, or other diseases of any kind, or troublesome insects have so far been detected. In planting the hazel for commercial purposes, I should recommend 12 feet distance between the plants each way, as they require abundant sun and air. At the same time, there is an opportunity to use the land between the rows for several years to come, as low growing crops like potatoes, strawberries, beans, beets, carrots, etc., could be grown there to great advantage, and the cultivation of these crops would be amply sufficient for the hazel plants.
Now the selection of varieties to be planted for the commercial hazel orchard is a very important part of the undertaking, and should be well considered. To plant several varieties is absolutely necessary on account of pollenizing, as staminate and pistillate flowers, though on the same plant, do not always appear together in proper condition on all plants; in fact it has been proven in my orchard that sometimes plants bring forth a great many pistillate blossoms and not a single staminate one on them, and still a good crop of nuts were grown on them. Here the pollination must have taken place with the pollen from other nearby plants conveyed to them by wind or insects. One particular plant of the zellernut type grown in one of my city lots during the last season was very well filled with pistillate blossoms and not one catkin on it, and still it ripened a fairly good crop of perfect nuts, where the nearest plants filled with staminate blossoms was at least 30 feet from it. Here it is shown and proven that a number of varieties is a necessity.
But what varieties we shall choose, will undoubtedly be an open question for some time to come, and, no doubt, a great deal of experimental work will have to be done to finally select the right varieties for the different localities, the variation of temperature and location has very much to do with the proper selection of varieties. I have among my varieties some I could recommend and again others that are not at all satisfactory, at least not so far, and it requires more close observation before the very best of them can be picked out or selected.
Our next operation in the hazel will be the pruning. Here I should say above all things: "Keep the suckers away." Hazel bushes are naturally inclined to produce a great many suckers, which should be thoroughly removed as soon as they appear; it will stop when the plants grow older. Besides the suckers, all weak and unnecessary wood should be removed entirely, not cut back. Our aim should be to try and get as near as possible low standard trees, with trunk say 10 to 15 inches high and the tree itself not to exceed 15 to 18 feet in height with the center kept open all the time. To accomplish this, I should suggest the removing of all crowding limbs from the center, regardless of their being fruit-bearing limbs, which to determine is mostly guess-work at the best. In order to keep the plants within 15 to 18 feet in height, the terminal shoots also should be removed or reduced as the case may be, beginning at the time of planting until the desired height is reached. After that, one or more of the old limbs may from time to time be removed, as there always will be enough young branches to take their places. Such pruning in my orchard, so far, has proved sufficient, as blight has never made its appearance in my nursery.
I will not be able to say much about blight. I have known trees in our city, 4 or 5 varieties, for more than 30 years, bearing more or less fruit year after year, and have never noticed any blight or anything wrong with them. Should blight appear, I should remove all affected limbs to the sound and healthy wood, as we would do to our pear and quince trees when blight appears among them. I do not believe that properly treated hazel bushes will ever suffer much from blight, at least not in our vicinity. Neither do I believe that any more pruning than I have outlined is required or necessary to our hazel plants.
The next subject about which I wish to say a few words is the propagation of hazel plants. There seems to be quite a difference of opinion as to the mode of propagating them; some advocate grafting, others layering, again others from suckers only. Grafting I believe myself, will produce a finer plant and the operation of doing so seems quite successful, but a great many varieties produce so many suckers that the graft is liable to be choked or crowded out if not constantly watched, and it should not be expected of the average person to know the difference between the graft and the wild shoot, and consequently, in a comparative short time, he would have a wild or common hazel. For that reason grafted plants should not be used for the trade until our people get better acquainted with hazel plants. I, therefore, should recommend layering, thereby having the plants on their own roots, which would prove more satisfactory everywhere. That grafted plants bear fruit sooner than layers, does not always hold good; it may be so with some varieties, but not with all of them. I have some three year old grafted plants and no fruit as yet, where I had plenty of layers in the nursery rows two years old well fruited.
It is true that plants grafted on seedlings of the Corylus avellana will not produce as many suckers, as plants grafted on layers of the avellana type, but they will produce enough to confuse the average person, as the foliage of some varieties are so nearly alike, that it actually requires an expert to tell the difference. I, therefore, under the existing circumstances, should advise the propagating of hazel plants by layers only, until our people get better acquainted with the hazel proposition in general. Why propagation by suckers only should be preferred by some people, I fail to see, as they are practically the same as layers, plants on their own roots from a parent plant, only that layers are produced a little more scientifically and suckers more naturally; otherwise they are identically the same thing.
When I referred to propagating, I should perhaps have mentioned the growing of hazel plants from seeds, that is from the nut, but I did not think it necessary. I will, however, say that plants raised from seed should never be planted for fruit bearing unless they are grafted or budded, as it has been fully and positively proven that plants raised from seed, even if the very finest nuts of our European hybrids are planted, will not produce nuts as good as those planted, but will almost invariably go back to the original type, the Corylus avellana. It is alright to raise plants from seeds for the sake of getting stock to graft or bud on, but, as to variety, the seedlings are unreliable.
Before coming to a close, I would like to say a few words about the fertilizing of the ground for hazel orchards and what experience I have had in this matter, as I believe this would be of interest to all. It is a well-known fact that hazel plants grow well and will thrive in almost any kind of soil, as long as it is not too wet or too heavy, but from time to time a little manure worked in is very beneficial both to old and young plants, but care and judgment should be exercised, so as not to overdo it. I have growing in one of my city lots with very fertile soil, several bearing hazel plants, 7 to 8 years old, different varieties. These plants grow so immensely that it plainly shows, they are growing at the expense of the fruit, not only that the quantity of nuts gathered from a plant there is considerably less than of same sized plants grown on ordinary farmland, but the quality also is very much below. My best nuts are all grown on ordinary farmland and the greatest quantity has always been obtained from the farm where only very little fertilizing or manuring had been done. For the growing of young plants for commercial purposes, for the trade, I should recommend liberal manuring at all times. (Applause.)
Question: Is the hazel a long lived tree?
Mr. Vollertsen: I have known trees for almost forty years that are bearing good fruit year after year, although not always a good crop. They don't seem to grow so rapidly at that age as when younger.
Dr. Morris: Hazels seem to graft pretty well on each other. I think the tree hazel is going to be our most successful stock for grafting. However, I have grafted on the Corylus avellana. The tree hazel does not put out any suckers.
Question: Does the hazel find its way into the market commercially?
Mr. Vollertsen: I would almost think so. I have had lots of inquiries for them from storekeepers. It seems to me there are a great many imported around here. Our American hazels are not so very good. There may be here and there a fairly good one, but I have not found any really good ones worth propagating. I think if we would do more scientific work we could get very good nuts. There is no question that they are perfectly hardy and will stand almost any climate.
Mr. Jones: Some of your varieties are hybrids aren't they?
Mr. Vollertsen: They are all hybrids. I have a few of the real, original avellana type I think got there by accident.
President Reed: I believe the next paper is one the secretary has from Mr. A. H. Graves.