A VISIT TO METZ
Starting-point: the Place d’Armes.
The Place d’Armes, in which the Cathedral and the Hôtel-de-Ville stand, is a handsome square embellished with noble buildings. On its site formerly stood the Cathedral cloister, the musicians’ quarters, several chapels and private houses.
In 1753 the Governor, Marshal de Belle-Isle, decided that a square should be laid out there and a portal erected giving access to the Cathedral.
The plans of the architect (Blondel) for the portal made it necessary to lower the level of the ground. For months and years, canons and sheriffs alike stopped or impeded the work. During the night of August 9, 1755, M. de Belle-Isle called out the garrison, and had the work finished by torchlight. By morning the excavation was complete.
STATUE OF MARSHAL FABERT, PLACE D’ARMES, METZ
In the Place d’Armes stands a statue of Marshal Fabert (by Etex, 1840). The only inscription on the statue of the great Metz general (1599-1662), who was governor of Sedan, is one of his own sayings: “If, to prevent the enemy taking a place entrusted to my care by the king, it were necessary, I should not hesitate for an instant to sacrifice myself, my family, and all my belongings.”
METZ CATHEDRAL
The Cathedral
The whole of one side of the Place d’Armes is occupied by the Cathedral of St. Etienne, a masterpiece of Gothic architecture. The body of the church reminds one of Amiens and Beauvais. If, on the outside, it appears somewhat narrow, the interior (393 feet long, 71 feet wide, 139 feet high), with its magnificent stained-glass, is imposing and of exceeding beauty.
The oldest portions of the Cathedral date from the 13th century.
The nave, completed in the 14th century, has eight bays. At the fourth bay it is flanked by two square towers.
The northern tower, called the “Mutte” Tower, contains the town-bell. It is surmounted by a fine spire, from which there is an extensive view of the surrounding country. It was there that the city watchman was installed, whose duty it was to give the alarm in case of fire. On the other side of the nave stands the Chapter Tower, which was finished in 1839. There is a fine doorway at the foot of each tower.
Another, smaller polygonal tower, called the Clock Tower, is built over the southern aisle.
On each side of the choir, where it meets the arms of the transept, are the two small “Charlemagne” towers, so called in memory of those which existed in the romanesque building. They give access by spiral stairways to the outside terraces over the Cathedral.
While the nave is 13th century the transept dates from the 15th, and the choir, built over a great sepulchral crypt, is contemporary with the last Gothic period.
Although completed in 1546 the Cathedral later underwent many alterations. Fires necessitated repairs, and in 1753, by order of the Governor (Marshal de Belle-Isle), the laying out of a square in front of the Cathedral necessitated the demolition of the outbuildings of the bishop’s house and the erection of a portal.
INTERIOR OF METZ CATHEDRAL
The ground was excavated to a depth of some eight or nine feet, and the architect (J. B. Blondel) was instructed to prepare plans on a grand scale.
This was done between 1761 and 1764, after which the work was at once put in hand, and completed in 1771. While endeavouring to respect the old building, Blondel sought, not so much to build the portal in the style of the Cathedral, as to erect an independent portal in front of the church. Its irregular lines contrast with the general style of the Cathedral.
In 1791, the rood-loft, old altars and vaults were removed, in accordance with the plans of Gardeur Lebrun. The roof, destroyed by fire on the night of May 6, 1877—the day Emperor Wilhelm I. entered Metz—was replaced in 1880-1882 by a copper roof several yards higher than the original.
Lastly, the Doric projection of the main front was pulled down in 1903 to make room for a portal planned in the style of the rest of the church. Statues of the prophets were carved at the corners, one of which—that of the prophet Daniel—is a likeness of the ex-Emperor of Germany, Wilhelm II. The people of Metz would not have the ex-Kaiser-prophet take part in the entry of the French, and during the night bound his hands with a chain attached to which was a board bearing the inscription, “Sic transit Gloria Mundi” (thus passes away man’s glory) (photo above).
THE EX-KAISER WILLIAM II. AS DANIEL
Statue on Metz Cathedral.
The offending statue is to be replaced by a work of the Metz sculptor Hannaux, who designed the French monument at Noisseville.
In no other church is there so large an area of window space. It is calculated that in the transept and choir there are 4,071 square metres of glass and it is no exaggeration to say that the whole building seems to be one immense window.
METZ CATHEDRAL. WEST FRONT
METZ CATHEDRAL. SOUTH FRONT AND PORTAL
Among the windows are several dating from the 13th century. The large rose-window at the end of the nave, which dates from the 14th century, is the work of the master-glassworker Hermann. The windows of the north transept and the Chapel of Our Lady date from the 15th century.
Those of the south transept, Chapel of St. Nicholas, choir and apse are 16th century.
The bell called “La Mutte,” which hangs in the tower of the same name, did not belong to the church, but to the town. The present bell, which is rung on all special occasions, was cast in 1505. It weighs thirteen tons and, when set in motion, causes the large and small spires to rock perceptibly. It bears the following inscription:
“Dame Mutte suis baptisée,
De par la Cité ci-posée,
Pour servir à la Cité
Aux jours de grandes solennités:
Et aussi pour crier justice,
Prendre ban de bonne police;
Les contredire quand bon me semble
Et pour convoquer gens ensemble.”
The best view of Metz and the surrounding country is to be obtained from the top of the Cathedral tower. Here one realizes the immense importance of the forts, of which the Moselle is a kind of natural moat. On the left bank the steeply rising hills form natural defences, while the lower hills on the right bank are reinforced by the line of forts. From their gleam in the distance one gets a better idea of the number of waterways which surround and run through Metz—the River Seille, the streams of St. Pierre, Noisseville, and Châtel-St.-Germain, the River Moselle (which divides), and the canal running parallel to it. Before Metz lies the large island of St. Symphorion; then, near the Wadrineau dyke, the smaller island of Saulcy. At the foot of old Metz there is yet another arm of the Moselle, which divides, forming an island, on which stand the Prefecture and Theatre. Beyond lies the large island of Chambière, recognisable by its parade-ground and cemeteries.
METZ. PLACE D’ARMES AND HÔTEL-DE-VILLE
The Hôtel-de-Ville
On leaving the Cathedral the tourist should next visit the Town Hall, also in the Place d’Armes (1766-1771). The architecture is simple: façade embellished with two pediments and handsome railings. A portico leads to a fine staircase. Opposite the balustrade is a bas-relief in white marble on which are engraved the famous lines of Ausonius: “Salve magna parens frugumque virumque Mosella....” (“Hail, O Moselle! illustrious mother of fruits and of men.”)
In the interior are large reception-rooms, in which the public meetings of the Academy are held. The Academy of Metz was founded in 1760 by Marshal de Belle-Isle under the title of “The Royal Society of Literature, Science and Art,” and endowed with the sum of sixty thousand “livres.” Suppressed at the Revolution, then restored on March 14, 1819, with the motto “Useful,” it obtained the title of “Royal Academy” from Charles X. on September 5, 1828. It consists of thirty-six titular members, eighteen resident members, and four honorary corresponding and associate members. The Academy largely contributed to maintain French culture in Lorraine during the German annexation.
In the grand staircase there are three windows, erected in 1852, in the middle, the Duke of Guise after the siege of Metz; on the right, Bishop Bertram of Metz; on the left, Sheriff Pierre Baudoche (1464-1489).
The flag which now flies over the building is the one which was there in 1870, and which was carefully preserved in the Carnavalet Museum in Paris. It was restored to the Mayor of Metz by the Vice-President of the Town Council of Paris on December 25, 1918.
PLAN OF ESPLANADE
Leaving the Town Hall take Rue Fabert on the left of the Place d’Armes, then its continuation (Rue des Clercs). At the end of the latter, on the left, is the Place de la République, and on the right the Esplanade.
GROUP OF LORRAINE GIRLS AT FOOT OF MARSHAL NEY’S STATUE
The fine Promenade de l’Esplanade served as a parade-ground for the garrison troops, who defiled along the first row of plane-trees, past the statue of Marshal Ney (by Pètre, 1855). Ney, Duke of Elchingen and Prince of Moskowa, was born at Sarrelouis. He is represented, rifle in hand, ready to fire.
STATUE OF EMPEROR WILHELM I. TAKEN DOWN BY HIS “GRATEFUL SUBJECTS” OF METZ. IT WAS REPLACED BY A STATUE OF “LE POILU”
Moskowa, was born at Sarrelouis. He is represented, rifle in hand, ready to fire.
Go to the end of the Esplanade, beyond the bandstand on the terrace; magnificent view of the Hill and Fort of St. Quentin, Fort Plappeville and the Moselle. The island of Saulcy, on which stands the powder-factory, is just opposite.
THE “POILU” STATUE, WHICH REPLACES THAT OF WILHELM I.
It was on this terrace that the bronze equestrian statue of Kaiser Wilhelm I. (1892) used to stand. According to the inscription on the pedestal the statue was erected by the Emperor’s “grateful people.” The conqueror was represented pointing to the Moselle and the powerful forts of Plappeville and St. Quentin which protect the town.
THE “PROMENADE DE LA MOSELLE”
The “grateful people” dragged this statue off its pedestal into the mud a few days before the French entered the town, and on the night of January 6 replaced it with a statue “To the Victorious Poilu,” bearing the inscription “On les a” (variation of the famous rallying cry “On les aura”) as a pleasant surprise for Marshal Pétain who, next day, was to decorate sixteen regiments with the “fourragère” cord and bestow decorations on various officers and soldiers. This statue was made in seven days by the local sculptor Bouchard (photos, p. [128]).
In the Esplanade stands the Palais-de-Justice (1776), on the site of the former Hôtel de la Haute-Pierre, the property of the Duke of Suffolk, lover of Mary Tudor, Queen of England. He had this mansion pulled down and the fine Hôtel de Suffolk built, which, for a long time, served as the Government House. Finally, in 1776, Clairisseaux built the present palace. The iron railings of the grand staircase and, in the inner court, two bas-reliefs—one recalling the humanity of the Duke of Guise in succouring the soldiers of the Duke of Albe after the raising of the siege; the other glorifying the peace concluded in 1783 between England, France, Spain, the United States of America and Holland, are especially noteworthy.
STATUE OF KAISER FREDERICK CHARLES DRAGGED DOWN FROM ITS PEDESTAL BY THE PEOPLE OF METZ
Return to the Place de la République and take on the right the Avenue de la Citadelle, which separates the Esplanade from the Place de la République. Follow this avenue, which soon skirts on the left the Engineers’ Barracks, and a garden.
Beyond the garden, turn to the left into the Avenue du Maréchal Joffre, which leads to the Place du Roi-George (in front of the old railway station). It was here that the statue of Kaiser Frederick III. was pulled down by the people. Not far from this square may be seen a round tower—a relic of the ramparts of the Middle Ages.
Turning his back on the old railway station, the tourist next takes Avenue Serpenoise (beside the gardens), along which run the tram lines. On the left is the Serpenoise Gate (1852).
Continue along the Avenue, which skirts, on the left, first the Engineers’ Barracks, then Place de la République.
Beyond the latter the Avenue is continued by Rue Serpenoise—the busiest street in Metz—which take. Rue Ladoucette, which continues it, leads to Rue Fournirue.
Take the latter on the right, then Rue du Change (which continues it to the right) to Place St. Louis.
SERPENOISE GATE, leading to the Place de la République.
PLACE ST. LOUIS AND THE ARCADES
In former times, Place St. Louis (or Place du Change) was occupied by sixty moneychangers’ stalls. Several of the houses in the square have retained their battlements, pointed or semicircular arches, tricusped windows and Renaissance balconies. The name of St. Louis comes from a statue of Louis XIII., found among the ruins of the citadel and which the Curé of St. Simplice took for one of Louis IX. Mystery plays used to be acted in the square, which later was used for the execution of criminals. Finally, it became the corn market.
At the end of the square take Rue Royale, then turn to the left into Rue Coislin, which skirts the Coislin Barracks.
At the end of Rue Coislin take Rue Pont-à-Seille to Place des Charrons, then, at the end of this square, Rue du Grand-Wad, to the Rempart des Allemands. Follow the latter to the left as far as the German Gate.
PLAN OF PLACE ST. LOUIS
PORTE DES ALLEMANDS (GERMAN GATE) Seen from the Quai des Allemands.
The German Gate, on the banks of the Seille, is a remarkable structure.
Mention of it occurs as early as 1324. In the 15th century it was completely restored by the architect Henri de Banceval.
Opposite the Gate take the Rue des Allemands; on the right is the interesting Church of St. Rucaire. Continue to Place des Paraiges.
THE GERMAN GATE
THE GERMAN GATE Seen from the right bank of the Seille.
THE TAN-YARDS
At the end of the square, take Rue Saulnerie to the right (continued on the left by Rue du Paradis), which leads to Rue des Capucins. At the end of the latter is Place des Maréchaux, in which stands the Church of St. Ségolène, built on the site of an oratory founded by St. Ségolène in the 8th century. The present church, built at two different periods (the choirs, nave and portal are earlier than the aisles), dates from about the 13th century. Long, narrow windows, mostly double, end in stanchions. The two side chapels contain fine stained-glass. Note the curious open-work gallery of the organ loft, and several interesting paintings.
Turn to the left and take the Rue des Trinitaires. Skirt an old building with a square turret, beside a doorway—“Hostel St. Ligier”—then turn to the right into Rue de la Bibliothèque.
In this street, at the corner of Rue Chèvremont, there is a large building (formerly the Church of the Petits-Carmes), the work of Sébastian Leclerc, in which are housed both the library (80,000 volumes and 1,987 manuscripts) and the Museum (local archæology, natural history, objects of art and three rooms of pictures).
Besides the museum, take Rue Chèvremont, which runs into Rue de la Boucherie, in which turn to the left to St. Georges Bridge over the Moselle.
Cross this bridge, from which there is a lovely view, and take the Rue du Pont St. Georges. Rue Chambière opens at once on the right, and leads to Chambière Cemetery, in which are the graves of the French soldiers who fell in the siege of 1870.
The road passes between the large slaughter house and cattle market, and huts serving as an army stores. Cross an old cemetery, in the middle of which are several monumental tombs. Skirt the Jewish cemetery and the Moselle, as far as the Military Cemetery: numerous graves under the trees. In the centre stands a pyramid thirty-seven feet high, with a great number of piled up coffins carved on the base. Here lie the soldiers who died in the Metz hospitals of wounds received in the battles of Borny, Gravelotte, St. Privat, Servigny, Peltre and Ladonchamps—7,203 in number.
MOSELLE RIVER Seen from St. George’s Bridge.
MOSELLE RIVER AND ST. GEORGE’S BRIDGE
On the principal façade is a bas-relief in white marble representing religion, taken from a disused vault belonging to the de Salse family. On the other side are inscriptions. At the base of the pyramid is the inscription: “The Women of Metz to those whom they nursed.”
Beside the pyramid there is a monument to the memory of the fallen French officers.
For forty-eight years wreaths, tri-colour cockades and ribbons were piously placed on these graves, and on each anniversary day the women of Metz covered them with flowers.
Take Rue du Pont St. Georges to Rue St. Vincent (on the left), which follow, then turn to the right into Rue des Bénédictins.
Apply at No. 7 to visit the Church of St. Clément.
Founded in 1668, the choir, nave and aisles were begun in 1680 by Spinga, an Italian. The portal was damaged during the Revolution. To-day the church forms part of the college founded by the Jesuits. A fine cloister with a well should be visited.
Return to Rue des Bénédictins and follow it as far as Rue St. Vincent (on the left), which leads to the square of the same name, where stands the curious Church of St. Vincent, founded in 1248.
Partially destroyed by fire in 1711, by an apostate monk, it was used as a stable during the Revolution, and then as a hospital in 1814. Once more a church, a portal in composite style was added. The graceful nave on twelve shafted pillars, the symmetrical choir and the fine chapels in pointed style are well worth seeing.
Continue along Rue St. Vincent, on the other side of the square. Its continuation, Rue St. Marcel, leads to Rue du Pont-à-Mort, into which turn to the left.
ST. MARCEL BRIDGE AND THE PROTESTANT CHURCH
Seen from Moyen Bridge.
Cross the Moselle by Moyen Bridge (lovely view). Take Rue St. Marie, which continues the bridge, then Rue du Faisan on the left, leading to the pretty little Place de Chambre. This square owes its name to the Knights of Malta, who in 1323 lived there in a castle called Petit St. Jean.
From the Place de Chambre return to the Cathedral and to the Place d’Armes by the narrow Rue d’Estrées.
MOYEN BRIDGE
MOYEN BRIDGE AND THE CATHEDRAL Seen from Saulcy Island.