A Milk-Bottle Carrier
Carrying a milk bottle by the rim is tiresome work for the fingers, so I constructed a handle, as shown in the sketch, from a piece of wire. The carrier can be easily placed in the pocket.
A Carrier Made of Wire to Quickly Attach on a Milk-Bottle Neck
The part fitting under the rim of the bottle neck is bent to form two semicircles, one hooking permanently at A, while the other is hooked at B after it is sprung around the neck of the bottle.—Contributed by Lawrence B. Robbins, Harwich, Mass.
How to Make a War Kite
By Park Snyder
The material required for the making of a war kite is three pine sticks, each 60 in. long, one stick 54 in. long, one stick 18 in. long, all 1/2 in. square; 4 yd. of cambric; a box of tacks; some linen thread, and 16 ft. of stout twine.
Place two 60-in. sticks parallel with each other and 18 in. apart, then lay the 54-in. piece across at right angles to them 18 in. from the upper ends, as shown in Fig. 1, and fasten the joints with brads. At a point 21 in. below this crosspiece, attach the 18-in. crosspiece.
The extending ends of all the three long pieces are notched, Fig. 2, and the line is stretched taut around them, as shown by the dotted lines.
The Line should be a Very Strong One, Then Banners can be Flown on It
If the cambric is not of sufficient size to cover the frame, two pieces must be sewed together, then a piece cut out to the shape of the string, allowing 1 in. to project all around for a lap. The cambric is sewn fast to the string with the linen thread. Fasten the cloth to the frame part with the tacks, spacing them 1 in. apart. The space in the center, between the sticks, is cut out. Make two pieces of the remaining goods, one 36 in. by 18 in., and the other 36 in. by 21 in. The remaining 60-in. stick is fastened to these pieces of cambric, as shown in Fig. 3, and the whole is fastened to the main frame so as to make a V-shaped projection. The bridle strings, for giving the proper distribution of pull on the line to the kite, are fastened, one to the upper end of the long stick in the V-shaped piece attached to the kite, and the other to the lower end, as shown in Fig. 4. The inclination can be varied to suit the builder by changing the point of attachment of the kite line to the bridle. If it is desired to fly the kite directly overhead, attach the line above the regular point and for low flying make the connection below this point. The regular point is found by trial flights with the line fastened temporarily to the bridle, after which the fastening is made permanent.
The Sticks are Fastened Solidly with Brads, and the Cloth Sewed to the String around Their Ends (Fig. 1, Fig. 2, Fig. 3, Fig. 4)
Paper Glider That Loops the Loop
By C. A. Thompson
The usual paper glider shaped as shown in Fig. 1 can be made to loop the loop and make corkscrew flights if prepared according to sketches herewith. It should be carefully made in the first place so that in its regular form it flies perfectly straight.
Ordinary Paper Glider and the Manner of Throwing It to Make the Different Flights (Fig. 1, Fig. 2, Fig. 3, Fig. 4, Fig. 5, Fig. 6, Fig. 7, Fig. 8)
To make the glider loop, the rear corners of the wings should be turned up at right angles, as in Fig. 2, and the glider launched with a great deal of force with the nose pointed slightly upward. This will require some practice, but one soon learns the trick. After looping once, as shown in Fig. 3, the glider descends in volplane. This form of glider will also right itself, if dropped from a height, nose downward, as shown in Fig. 4.
For a corkscrew flight the glider is prepared as in Fig. 5; one rear corner being bent up and the other down. In this form it flies horizontally, or downward, while rapidly rotating around its longitudinal axis, as shown in Fig. 6.
To make a spiral descent, the rear corners of the wings are bent up as in Fig. 2, and, further, the rear corner of the keel is bent at right angles, Fig. 7, whereupon it is thrown in the ordinary manner. It then takes the course shown in Fig. 8.