Repairing Worn Escapement Wheel of a Clock
When the ordinary clock has served its usefulness and is apparently worn out, the jeweler's price to overhaul it frequently amounts to almost as much as the original purchase price. One weak place in the clock is the escapement wheel. The points soon wear down, thereby producing a greater escapement and pendulum movement, resulting in an increased strain and wear of the clock. If the tips of the teeth on the wheel are bent up slightly with a pair of pliers, the swing of the pendulum will be reduced, thereby increasing the life of the clock. Many of the grandfather's clocks can be put in order in this manner so as to serve as a timepiece as well as a cherished ornament.—Contributed by C. F. Spaulding. Chicago, Ill.
A piece of work should never be fingered while filing it in a lathe.
If He would Take Full Advantage of Any Sport and Reap the Greatest Pleasure from a Day Spent in the Open, the Sportsman should Get Together a Good Outfit
Fishing-Rod Making and Angling
By Stillman Taylor
Part III—Trout Fishing with Fly and Bait
The art of angling is generally viewed as one of the world's greatest recreations, and while each and every phase of fishing may be said to possess certain charms of its own, fly fishing for trout is regarded by most well-informed sportsmen as the alpha and omega of the angler's art. This is so because the trout family are uncommonly wary and game fish, and the tackle used for their capture is of finer balance and less clumsy than any employed in angling for the coarser game fishes. If he would take full advantage of any sport and reap the greatest pleasure from a day spent in the open, it is really necessary for the sportsman to get together a good outfit. It is not essential to have a very expensive one, but it should be good of its kind, well proportioned for the purpose for which it is to be used. The beginner, who buys without good knowledge of the articles required, or fails to use careful discrimination, is almost certain to accumulate a varied assortment of junk, attractive enough in appearance, perhaps, but well-nigh useless when it is tested out on the stream. A good representative outfit, then, is of the first importance; it means making a good beginning by initiating the novice in the sport under the most favorable conditions. Let us then consider the selection of a good fishing kit, a well-balanced rod, the kind of a reel to use with it, the right sort of a line, flies, and the other few items found in the kit of the practical and experienced trout fisherman.
Selecting a Good Fly Rod
The ordinary fishing pole may be bought offhand at almost any hardware store, but a well-balanced rod for fly fishing should be well tested out beforehand. The requirements call for a rod of comparatively light weight, a rod that is elastic and resilient, and yet strong enough to prove durable under the continued strain of much fishing. If the angler has made his own rod, as suggested in former chapters, he will have a good dependable fly rod, but the large majority of anglers who are about to purchase their first fishing kit should carefully consider the selection of the rod. At the outset it must be understood that good tackle is simply a matter of price, the finest rods and reels are necessarily high in price, and the same thing may be said of lines and flies. Providing the angler has no objection to paying $15, or more, for a rod, the choice will naturally fall upon the handmade split bamboo. For this amount of money a fair quality fly rod may be purchased, the finer split bamboos costing anywhere up to $50, but under $15 it is very doubtful whether the angler can procure a built-up rod that is in every way satisfactory. The question may arise, Is a split-bamboo rod necessary? The writer's own long experience says that it is not, and that a finely made solid-wood rod, of greenheart or dagame, is quite as satisfactory in the hands of the average angler as the most expensive split bamboo. A good rod of this sort may be had for $10, and with reasonable care ought to last a lifetime.
The points to look for in a fly rod, whether the material is split bamboo or solid wood, is an even taper from the butt to the tip; that is, the rod should register a uniform curve, or arc, the entire length. For general fly casting 9 ft. is a handy length, and a rod of 6-1/2 oz. weight will prove more durable than a lighter tool. A good elastic rod is wanted for fly casting, but a too willowy or whippy action had best be avoided. However, for small-brook fishing, where the overgrown banks prohibit long casts, a somewhat shorter and stiffer rod will be more useful. For casting in large northern streams, where the current is swift and the trout run to a larger size, a 9-1/2 or 10-ft. rod of 8 oz. weight is often preferred. Of course, the veteran angler can safely use a much lighter rod than the beginner, and one occasionally meets a man on the stream that uses a 5-oz. rod for pretty heavy fishing. To be on the safe side, the novice will make no mistake in choosing a rod of fair length and conservative weight.
When selecting a rod in the tackle shop, do not rest content with a mere examination of the appearance, but have the dealer affix a reel of the weight and size intended to be used with it. By reeling on a short length of line and reeving it through the guides and then fastening the end to a weight lying upon the floor, a very good idea of the rod's behavior may be gained, since by reeling in the line and putting tension on the rod its elasticity and curve may be seen and felt as well as in actual fishing. To give the utmost satisfaction, the rod should fit its owner, and several rods should be tried until one is found that most fully meets the angler's idea of what a rod should be. If one happens to have a good fly reel, by all means take it along and attach it to the rod while making the tests. It is practically impossible to gauge the balance of a rod without affixing the reel, and many a finely balanced tool will appear badly balanced until the proper-weight reel is affixed to it.
The Proper Kind of Reel
For fly fishing nothing is so good as the English style of click reel, which is made with a one-piece revolving side plate and with the handle affixed directly to it. Any kind of a balanced-handle reel is an out-and-out nuisance on the fly rod, because it has no advantage in quickly recovering the line, and the projecting handle is forever catching the line while casting. In fly casting, the length of cast is regulated by the amount of line taken from the reel before the cast is made, and it is while "pumping" this slack line through the guides, in making the actual cast, that the balanced or projecting handle is very apt to foul the line. A good reel that is smooth-running like a watch will cost about $10, but a very good one may be had for $5, and cheaper ones, while not so durable, may be used with fair satisfaction. The heavier multiplying reels, so essential for bait casting from a free reel, are altogether unsuited for the fly rod, being too heavy when placed below the hand, which is the only proper position for the reel when fly casting. The single-action click reel, having a comparatively large diameter, but being quite narrow between the plates, is the one to use, and hard rubber, or vulcanite, is a good material for the side plates, while the trimmings may be of german silver or aluminum. The all-metal reel is of about equal merit, but whatever the material, the most useful size is one holding about 40 yd. of No. E size waterproof line. A reel of this capacity will measure about 3 in. in diameter and have a width of about 7/8 in. between plates. A narrow-spooled reel of this type enables the fisherman to reel in the line plenty fast enough. Owing to the fact that the reel is placed below the grip on fly rods, a rather light-weight instrument is needed to balance the rod. Of the two extremes, it is better to err on the side of lightness, because a heavy reel makes a butt-heavy rod and, throwing extra weight on the wrist and arm, makes casting increasingly difficult after an hour's fishing. An old hand at the game will appreciate this point better than the novice.
The English Pattern Is the Best Type of Reel for Trout Fishing, and a Gun-Metal, or Other Dark Finish, Is Better than Shiny Nickelplate
Fly Book with Clips for Holding Snelled Flies, So That the Gut is Kept Straight between Pads of Felt
Aluminum Box with Clips for Holding Flies Tied on Eyed Hooks, Each Clip Having Places for Seven Flies
A Folding-Handle Landing Net may be Left at Home, but Most Old Anglers Like to Have It Handy When Needed
Willow Creel, or Basket, Leather-Bound with a Metal Fastening, the Number Three Size being About Right
Leader Box of Black-Finished Aluminum with Felt Pads to Keep the Leaders Moist and Pliable
A Three-Joint Fly Rod with Cork Hand Grasp and Extra Tip, and Rod Case Made of Aluminum Tubing
The Kind of Line to Use
The fly-casting line used by a veteran is generally of silk, enameled and having a double taper; that is, the line is thickest in the center and gradually tapers to a smaller diameter at each end. Single-tapered lines are likewise extensively used, and while they cost less, they are tapered at one end only and cannot be reversed to equalize the wear caused by casting. The level line, which has the same diameter throughout its entire length, is the line most generally used, but the cast cannot be so delicately made with it. For the beginner, however, the level line in size No. E is a good choice. For small-brook fishing, No. F is plenty large enough. In choosing the size of line, there is a common-sense rule among fly casters to select a line proportioned to the weight of the rod. For a light rod a light line is the rule, and for the heavier rod a stouter line is the logical choice. If the rod is of a too stiff action, use a comparatively heavy line, and it will limber up considerably; if the rod is extremely "whippy," use the lightest line that can be purchased, and used with safety.
A Fine Leader Marks the Expert Caster
The leader for trout is preferably of single gut, and as fine as the angler's skill will allow. The fly caster's rule is to use a leader whose breaking strain is less than the line, then, when the tackle parts, it is simply a question of putting on a new leader and the more expensive line is saved. Ready-made leaders may be purchased, or the angler can tie them up as desired. For length, a 3 or 3-1/2-ft. leader is about right for average fishing. Longer leaders are used, and while they sometimes are of advantage, the 3-ft. length is more useful. A longer leader is awkward to handle because the loop is apt to catch in the top of the rod when reeling in the line to bring the fish close to the landing net. Leaders may be had with a loop at each end, or with loops tied in, for using a cast of two or three flies. For all average casting, the two-fly cast is the best, but the expert angler uses the single-fly very often. For lake fishing, the single large fly is generally preferred. For using two flies, the leader is provided with three loops, one at the top, another at the bottom, and an extra loop tied in about 15 in. from the lower loop. In fly casting, the first, or upper, fly is known as the "dropper," and the lower one as the "tail" fly. For the single-fly cast but two loops are required.
Gut used for leaders should be carefully selected, and only those lengths which are of uniform diameter and well rounded chosen, the lengths which show flat and rough spots being discarded. Dry gut that is very brittle should be handled very little, and previous to a day's fishing the leaders must be soaked in water over night to make them pliable, then coiled in between felt pads of the leader box to keep them in fishing shape. After use, put the frayed leaders aside and dry them out between the flannel leaves of the fly book.
Gut is the product of the silkworm, and the best quality is imported from Spain. It comes in bundles, or hanks, of 1,000 strands, 10 to 20 in. long and in different thicknesses, or strengths. The heaviest are known as "Royal" and "Imperial," for salmon; "Marana," for extra-heavy bass; "Padron," for bass; "Regular," for heavy trout; "Fina," for light trout, and "Refina," for extra-light trout. The grades "Fina" and "Refina" are well suited for all average fly fishing, while the heavier sizes are useful for heavy large fishing.
To make the leaders, soak the strands of gut in warm water over night until they are soft and pliable. Select the strands for each leader of the desired thickness and length so that the finished leader will have a slight taper to one end only. By using the "Fina" gut for the upper length and tying in two lengths of "Refina" gut, a nicely tapered leader of light weight is obtained. Begin the leader by uniting the strands together to make it the correct length, three 12-in. strands being about right for average casting. The "single water knot" is the strongest and neatest to use. Make it by taking the thick end of the strand and doubling it back enough to tie in a common knot just large enough for the line to pass through and drawing it up tightly. Tie a single loose knot in the other end of the strand, about 1/8 in. in diameter and close to the end; take the next thickest strand of gut, thread the thicker end through the loose knot and tie a second square knot around the strand, as shown at A. By pulling on the two long ends the loops can be drawn up tightly, and the two knots will slide together and make a neat and very strong knot. Repeat this operation until as many strands of gut are knotted together as required to make the leader of the desired length. For making the loop at the ends, a double-bighted knot, tied as shown at B, is used. If a dropper fly is desired, do not pull the water knot tightly, but first insert a short length of gut with a common knot at the end and a loop in the other, then draw the water knot up tightly, and a short snell will be made for attaching the fly as usually.
(A) The Single Water Knot Used in Tying Leaders; (B) a Good Knot for Making the Loop at the End of the Leaders; (C) an Angler's Knot Used for Attaching the Line to the Leader, and (D) a Jam Knot for Attaching Eyed Flies, or Hooks, to the Leader or Snell
Flies for Trout Fishing
The standard selection of artificial flies numbers about 60, but the average fisherman will find about 24 selected patterns to answer every need. For making up the most "killing" flies for the trout season, the following can be recommended: Use red ibis, stone fly, cinnamon, red spinner, and parchmenee belle, for April; turkey brown, yellow dun, iron blue, spinner, montreal and red fox, for May; spider, black gnat, silver doctor, gray drake, orange dun, and green drake, for June; July dun, grizzly king, pale evening dun, red ant, and brown palmer, for July; Seth green, coachman, shad, governor, August dun, and royal coachman, for August, and black palmer, willow, whirling dun, queen of the water, and blue bottle, for September.
To attach a line to the leader the well-known "angler's knot" is mostly used. This knot is shown at C. The snelled fly is attached by passing the loop over the loop of the leader and inserting the fly through the leader loop. When eyed flies are used they are often attached direct to the leader, or a looped snell may be used as in the ordinary American-tied fly. To attach the eyed fly direct to the leader, the common "jam knot," shown at D, is mostly used, and when the slipknot is drawn up tightly and the extra end cut off it makes a small, neat knot, not apt to slip.