A Marble-under-Bridge Game of Skill

The object of this game is to pass a marble from one end to the other of the “roadway,” under the “bridges,” and over the “inclines,” without dropping it. A stop must be made at each hole. The device is made as follows: Cut two pieces of wood, ¹⁄₄ by 1³⁄₄ by 12 in., and join them to form a right angle. Cut pieces of cardboard, 4 each, 1³⁄₄ by 2¹⁄₂ in. wide, with a ³⁄₄-in. hole in the center, for inclines B, and 1³⁄₄ by 3 in., for bridges A; also two pieces 1³⁄₄ in. square for stops C. Fasten them with tacks as shown. The marble should be large enough so that it will rest in the holes at B.

Decorative Toys and Boxes
Made at Home
By Bonnie E. Snow

Homemade toys and gifts, as well as the “treasure boxes” in which they are contained, have an added interest both to the one making and the one receiving them. The holiday season makes this work especially attractive, which affords opportunity for individuality in construction and design limited only by the skill of the worker. The decorated toys and the box described in detail in this article are suggestive only, and may be adapted to a large variety of forms and designs. The gorgeously colored [parrot] and the gayly caparisoned [rider and horse] suggest a host of bird and animal forms, those having possibilities for attractive coloring being most desirable. The decorated box shown in [Fig. 7] may be adapted as a gift box, to be used where its decoration may be seen, in the nursery, for example, and may be made in many forms, in fact as various as cardboard boxes are. Plant, animal, or geometrical forms may be used to work out designs, and appropriate color schemes applied to them. A good plan in determining upon a color scheme is to use the colors of the flower or other motif. If the design is not associated with objects having varied colors—a geometrical design, for instance—harmonious colors should be chosen. These may be bright and contrasting, as red and green, violet and orange, or subdued in tone.

FIG. 1 FIG. 2

The Outlines for the Horse and Rider and the Parrot may be Made by Enlarging These Sketches. The Color Scheme Indicated is Suggestive Only and may be Varied to Suit Individual Taste

A design for a horse and rider, brightly colored, is shown in [Fig. 1]. The form is cut out of thin wood, the color applied, and the figure mounted on the curved wire, weighted at one end, as shown in [Fig. 6]. The toy adds a touch of color and novelty to a room, when suspended from the corner of the mantel, from a shelf, or other suitable place. Balanced in a striking attitude, forefeet upraised, even grown-ups can hardly resist tipping the rider to see his mount rear still higher. The parrot shown in [Fig. 2] is made similarly, and is weighted at the end of the tail. The point of balance is at the feet, which may be fastened to a trapeze, or be arranged to perch on a convenient place, like that suited to the horse and rider.

The tools and equipment necessary for the making of such toys are simple, and available in most boys’ workshops or tool chests. A coping saw, like that shown at A, [Fig. 3], is suitable for cutting the wood. A fretsaw, operated by hand, foot or power, may be used, and such a tool makes this work quite rapid. To use the coping saw to the best advantage, particularly if the work is to be done on a table which must not be marred, a sawing board should be made. In its simplest form, this consists of a board, as shown at B, about ⁷⁄₈ in. thick, 3¹⁄₂ in. wide, and 6 in. long, with one end notched. This is clamped to the end of the table, as at D, with a clamp, an iron one of the type shown at C being satisfactory. Another form of sawing table especially useful when it is desired to stand up at the work, is shown at E in detail and clamped in the vise at F. It consists of a notched board, 3¹⁄₂ in. wide, fixed at right angles to a board of similar width, 11 in. long, and braced at the joint with a block about 1³⁄₈ in. square. In using the coping saw with either of these saw tables, the wood is held down on the support, as shown in [Fig. 5], and the saw drawn downward for each cutting stroke, thus tending to hold the board more firmly against the saw table. It is, of course, important that the saw be inserted in the coping-saw frame with the teeth pointing toward the handle, so that the method of cutting described may be followed. The wood must be sawed slowly, especially at the beginning of a cut. The operator soon learns the kinks in handling the saw and wood to the best advantage, and can then make rapid progress.

A B C
D E F

FIG. 3
The Tools Required are Found in Most Boys’ Workshops, and a Satisfactory Saw Table may be Made Easily, as Shown in Detail

An outline drawing of the form to be cut out of the wood must first be made, to the exact size that the object is to be. There is much satisfaction if working out the form of the animal or other figure, especially for the boy or girl who has the time necessary to do good work. If desired, the figure may be traced from a picture obtained from a book, magazine, or other source. Cut a piece of wood to the size required for the design, and place a sheet of carbon paper over it; or if none is available, rub a sheet of paper with a soft pencil, and use this as a carbon paper, the side covered with the lead being placed next to the wood. The carbon paper and the sheet bearing the design should then be held in place on the wood with thumb tacks, or pins, and the transfer made with a pencil, as shown in [Fig. 4]. The design should be placed on the wood so that the weaker parts, such as the legs of the horse, will extend with the length instead of across the grain of the wood. In some instances, where a complicated form is cut out, it is necessary to use wood of several plies, and where this is available it is worth while to use it for all of this work. For smaller objects wood ³⁄₁₆ in. thick is suitable, and stock up to ¹⁄₂ in. in thickness may be used. Whitewood, basswood, poplar and other soft, smooth-grained woods are suitable.

FIG. 4

FIG. 5

The Design is Traced Carefully onto the Wood and Then Cut Out with the Coping Saw, on the Saw Table

When the design has been outlined satisfactorily, place the piece of wood on the saw table with the design on the upper side. Holding the wood down firmly, as shown in [Fig. 5], and sawing in the notch of the saw table, cut into the edge slowly. Apply light pressure on the downstroke only, as the upstroke is not intended to cut, and turn the piece to keep the saw on the line and in the notch. It is important that the saw be held vertically so that the edge of the cut-out portion will be square. With proper care and a little practice, the edges may be cut so smoothly that only a light sandpapering will be required to produce a smooth edge. When the figure has been cut out, smooth the edges by trimming them carefully with a sharp knife, if necessary, and sandpaper them lightly to remove sharp corners. A fine sandpaper, about No. ¹⁄₂, is suitable for this purpose. The figure is then ready for painting. The white is put on first and the other colors applied over it, when dry.

Oil paints may be used, and a varnish or shellac applied over them to give a high grade of work, but this process requires much care, considerable skill, and long drying between coats to prevent “runs” in the colors.

FIG. 6

Water-color paint, which can be purchased in powder form at paint stores, mixed with water to the consistency of cream is a satisfactory coloring material, and is easy to apply. Five cents’ worth of each of the colors used—yellow, red, blue, black, and white—will be sufficient for several toys. Mix each color in a separate saucer, and use a small water-color brush to apply the paint. In painting the horse and rider, the horse is first painted entirely white, and then the black spots are applied after the color is dry. The rider’s coat is painted red; the trousers blue; the hat and leggings buff, as indicated in [Fig. 1]. Mix a brushful of yellow with a brushful of red, and add about three brushfuls of white. A half brushful of black may be added to dull the color, if desired. The flesh tone for the rider’s face is made by mixing a little red with white. When the colors are dry, all edges are outlined with a heavy line of black, not less than ¹⁄₈ in. in width. This outline may be evenly applied with the point of the brush.

FIG. 7
A Handmade Box Is Interesting in that It Expresses the Individuality of the Maker, Especially When Made as a Gift

The method of making the parrot is similar to that described for the horse and rider, and the color scheme is suggested in [Fig. 2].

It will be noticed that no attempt is made to secure a lifelike, or realistic, effect in painting these toy shapes. All colors are flat, that is, without light and shade. The toys are really decorative designs, and the maker is at liberty to use any colors desired, whether natural or not.

The horse and rider is balanced on the hind foot, as shown in [Fig. 6], by using a lead weight, attached to a ¹⁄₁₆-in. wire, as a counterweight. The wire should be set into the body of the horse, behind the foreleg, to a depth of ³⁄₄ in. The weight of the metal and the curve of the wire should be adjusted to obtain the proper balance. The parrot is balanced in the same way, except that the weight is fixed to the end of the tail, which is curved like the wire.

These and other homemade toys or gifts may be sent or contained appropriately in boxes decorated to match them, as shown in [Fig. 7]. They may be made complete, or commercial boxes of suitable sizes may be covered and decorated. If good materials are used, such a box makes a pretty and useful gift in itself. The complete process of making a typical box is described for those who prefer to make one of special size. The dimensions given are thus only suggestive, and may be adapted to suit particular needs.

FIG. 8

Color Schemes may be Obtained from Flowers and Other Natural Forms, or by Selecting a Combination of Harmonious Shades. The Background Is of Plum-Colored Paper; the Small Circles are Emerald-Green; the Light Area, Yellow, and the Ovals, Orange-Red

The materials necessary are: cardboard, cover paper, lining paper, bond paper, paste, and water colors. The latter should be of the opaque variety since white or other light shades may then be used on darker-colored paper. A sharp knife, a scissors, a metal-edge ruler, and bookbinder’s paste are also needed. Suitable substitutes for the various kinds of paper may usually be obtained in the home, if they are not readily available at local stationery stores or printing establishments.

GHJ
MK
LNOPQ

FIG. 9
The Various Steps in the Process of Making and Covering a Rectangular Cardboard Box are Shown in Detail. The Method of Making a Pattern for the Design is shown Below

The box is made as follows: Determine upon the proper size and select materials to carry out the design. An appropriate combination of colors and materials is suggested in [Fig. 8]. Cut out a square of the cardboard, having sides 12¹⁄₂ in. long, as shown in [Fig. 9], at G, then mark it as indicated and cut on the full line to remove the square corners. Crease it on the dotted lines and fold to form a box. To hold the cardboard in box shape, strips of bond paper—ordinary writing paper—are cut, 3³⁄₄ in. long and 1 in. wide, then creased along their centers and pasted to the corners. The paste should be applied to the paper strip first, then on the corners of the box. Apply the piece of paper over the corner of the box on the outside, pressing it to make a snug fit. Repeat this operation on the other corners.

Lay off the dimensions given at H on the selected color of cover paper, which in this instance is plum, and score the lines indicated. Spread paste smoothly over the surface of the plum paper, between the lines drawn ³⁄₈ in. from the long edges, and then spread a thin layer of paste over the outer surface of one of the sides of the box. Apply the paper to the pasted surface and press it down, rubbing gently out from the center to remove air bubbles. Fold the ³⁄₈-in. laps at the top and bottom over the upper edge of the box and around the lower corner. Repeat this process, covering the four sides. To form a smooth fold at the corners, it is best to miter the paper as shown at J and K, before pasting it down. Then paste a square of the same paper 4⁷⁄₈ in. wide on the bottom of the box, taking care to match the edges evenly all around.

Line the box with a strip of lining paper, 20 in. long and 4 in. wide. Try the lining by folding it into the box so that its upper edge is about ¹⁄₈ in. from the edge of the box, and crease it carefully into the corners. Remove it, apply paste, and press it well into the corners when pasting it down. Paste a square of the same paper, 4⁷⁄₈ in wide, in the bottom of the box.

The cover is made by the same process as the main portion of the box. The dimensions of the cardboard are shown at L, and the covering at M. It should be observed that the cover is slightly wider than the box, so that it will fit easily.

When the box is thoroughly dry, it is ready to receive the decorations on the top and sides. The design may be adapted from a leaf, flower, or similar form, as well as from geometric or animal forms. The horse and rider, the parrot, and the animals shown in the headpiece of this article are all suggestive of animal forms that are available.

The design shown on the box in [Fig. 7] was adapted from a flower form, two of the units being joined for the decoration on the top. To obtain a pattern for the design, fold a piece of paper, 2 by 4 in., as shown at N, and outline one-half of a leaf, flower or similar motif. Cut the folded paper as at O, and a pattern similar to that shown at P results. Trace around this to place the figure on the box. Outline the figure with black, about ¹⁄₈ in. wide, as at Q. The oval figures, suggestive of small pods on a flower, are also outlined in black, and joined to the main portion of the design by a black line. Thinner black lines are drawn vertically across the form, and small circles placed along them at intervals. The color scheme is shown in [Fig. 8]. The light background is yellow, the small circles are emerald-green, and the ovals red-orange. The rim of the cover is decorated with a border of white ovals, outlined in black. The corners are banded in black and white as shown in [Fig. 7].