The boy mechanic, book 3

by Unknown

A Quick-Acting Bench Vise

A Quick-Acting Vise Made of Hard Wood for the Home Worker’s Bench

For those who desire a quick-acting vise and cannot afford the price of a manufactured one, I designed the vise shown in the illustration. A detail is given of each part, with dimensions, so that it is not difficult to make it from hard wood. The roll A binds the vise so that it remains rigid, while the cam in front gives the necessary play, to release or tighten as preferred. The clamp jaw B is pivoted so that it swings loose, thus making it fit any surface that may not be parallel with its opposite side. In releasing the stock, the cam is first turned, and then the front part of the vise is pulled up to relieve the roll A. The front jaw can be then moved back and forth to take stock of any size desired. As soon as the stock is placed, the roll A falls into place and clamps the jaw arm C.—Contributed by J. C. Hansen, Maywood, Ill.

¶A practical vacuum will raise water 30 feet.

How To Build
A Canoe
By Stillman Taylor
PART II
Sailing the Open Paddling Canoe

Sailing and its recreations are afforded the owner of an open paddling canoe, for a satisfactory sailing rig may be provided at small cost. A regulation sailing outfit may be purchased, but it is rather costly, and if the canoeist cannot use a sail frequently, purchasing an outfit is unduly expensive. A sailing rig may be constructed even by one of only moderate skill, who will devote a few hours to it. The specifications given, if carefully followed, will enable one to make a sailing rig as serviceable as a ready-made outfit, and at about one-half the cost.

The specifications and list of material for a sailing outfit suitable for a 16-ft. open canoe are as follows:

1 piece bamboo, 1¹⁄₂ in. in diameter, 6 ft. 10 in. long, for mast.

2 pieces bamboo fishing rod, 1 in. at butt, 10 ft. long.

1 piece, cedar or white pine, 5 ft. long, 4 in. wide, and ⁷⁄₈ in. thick, for leeboard thwart.

2 pieces, cedar or pine, 28 in. long, 10 in. wide, and ³⁄₈ in. thick, for mast thwart.

1 piece, cedar or pine, 27¹⁄₂ in. long, 3¹⁄₂ in. wide, and ³⁄₄ in. thick, for mast thwart.

1 piece, cedar or pine, 5 in. long, 2¹⁄₂ in. wide, and 1 in. thick, for mast step.

8 yd. unbleached cotton sheeting, 1 yd. wide, for making sail.

30 ft. ¹⁄₄-in. cotton rope, for halyard and main sheet.

4 brass lantern-board hooks, for clamping mast thwart and leeboard thwart to canoe.

2 brass stove bolts, 3 in. long and ⁵⁄₁₆ in. diameter, with washers and thumb nuts, for clamping leeboards at desired angle.

1 brass single-boom jaw for canoe, 2 in. long, for keeping boom on mast.

3 brass screw eyes, 1¹⁄₂ in. long with ¹⁄₂-in. eye, one for halyard, two for spars.

1 brass split ring, 1¹⁄₂ in., for fastening ends of spars together.

1 brass “S” hook, 1³⁄₄ in. long, for fastening ends of spars.

In converting the paddling canoe for sailing, it is desirable that it be unmarred, as far as possible. The rig described represents the result of experiments with various arrangements, and has been found to be safe and convenient. The original outfit has been in use for six years and will still serve for some time.

The lateen rig is best for an open canoe, because a shorter mast is required for the same sail area. An open craft is less suited for carrying sail than one which is decked fore, aft, and amidships. It is not safe to rig a canoe too heavily, and the rig described has been found to be well proportioned.

Bamboo is best for the mast, because it is lighter and tougher than a solid wood spar of the same dimensions, and is readily procured. Dealers in rugs use bamboo of 1¹⁄₂ to 2-in. diameter on which to roll carpets, and it may usually be purchased of them.

Cut the bamboo to a length of 6 ft. 10 in., and whittle a wooden plug, about 3 in. long, tapering it so that it will wedge firmly inside, taking care not to split the cane. Bore a small hole through the cane 2 in. from the top, plug it and fix a screw eye into the plug. Drive small brads through the cane into the plug to prevent the former from splitting. A brass ferrule fitted over the end of the bamboo will make a strong and neat finish.

The sail is made in the form of a triangle and measures 9 ft. on each side. It is best to have it sewed on a machine. The sail is bighted with parallel strips, or folds, ¹⁄₂ in. wide, spaced 6 in. apart, as shown at the left in the illustration. First cut the canvas to the approximate size and shape by laying the spars over it and marking the outline with a pencil. Next sew the separate widths together, lapping one edge over the other about ¹⁄₂ in., and sewing close to both edges. The bights or folds run at an angle and parallel with the loose ends of the leech of the sail. The sail should then be reinforced at the corners by sewing segments of cloth at these points. Along the edges which are to be lashed to the spars, fold over a strip of canvas and sew it to make a 1-in. hem. Run a ¹⁄₂-in. tape into the fold along the leech while sewing the hem. This tape is fastened to the spar at each end, to take up the slack caused by the stretching of the sail after use, thus preventing that bugbear of sailors—a flapping leech.

Sailing and Its Recreations are Afforded the Owner of an Open Paddling Canoe, for a Satisfactory Sailing Rig may be Provided at Small Cost. The Canoe Is Practically Unmarred, yet the Sailing Outfit is Installed Substantially and may be Removed Quickly. The Canoe Is Shown Running Nearly Free—before the Wind—and the Leeboards are Therefore Only Partly Submerged

The mast thwart is made as shown at the right in the [illustration], and has a hole cut in the center to fit the mast. It is also provided with two lantern-board hooks, one at each end, with which to clamp the thwart to the gunwales. The mast is supported at the bottom by means of the mast step, which is a block of wood, shaped as shown to give a neat appearance. It is fastened to the grating, or to the ribs if no grating is used.

The leeboard thwart is also shown in the [sketch], at the right. The short upright ends are set at an angle so that they conform to the curve of the canoe and wedge the thwart into place immediately aft of the mast. The ends are grooved to fit the thwart and fastened with screws. A carriage bolt is fitted through each end piece and provided with a wing nut, which holds the leeboard in place on each side. The leeboards may thus be adjusted at the desired angle by fixing them with wing nuts. No dimensions are given, for it is obvious that they will vary on different styles and sizes of canoes. A finish in keeping with that of the canoe should be applied. Smooth all the work as carefully as possible with sharp tools and sandpaper it lightly. Three coats of spar varnish will give a satisfactory finish.

The sail is hoisted by running the halyard through the screw eye at the top of the mast, until the gaff spar is close to the mast top, as illustrated.

The boom jaw is fastened on the boom, with the open end 18 in. from the forward end of the boom. This will permit the forefoot of the sail to extend forward of the mast. By tying the halyard at various points along the gaff, the point of balance may be found. For the sake of safety the halyard should not be tied to the forward thwart, but run under it to the stern within easy reach of the canoeist. The main sheet should never be made fast, but the rope merely looped around the thwart and held in the hand or beneath the foot, so that it may be released quickly if a puff of wind should strike the sail.

Steering is done with a paddle. This method is more convenient than a rudder where the single sail is used. The paddle is always used on the lee side—away from the wind—and the wake keeps the blade close to the side of the canoe, without much effort on the part of the person guiding it. When turning about make the regular paddling stroke, but finish it by thrusting the blade of the paddle away from the canoe. This will tend to keep the canoe in its course, and the paddle will not be drawn across the wake, which would affect the headway of the craft.

The lower the weight is placed in a canoe, or boat, the greater will be its stability. Hence, in sailing a canoe, sit on the floor of the craft, and when turning about, turn against the wind and not with it. The experienced canoeist can shift his course readily, but the novice must be cautious, even in a moderate breeze. It would be well to sail in shallow water and to wear only bathing costume when learning to sail a canoe. When tacking and sailing close-hauled the leeboard is the most effective, but as the boards are thin both may be kept down without greatly reducing the speed. When running before the wind both boards may be raised to give the greatest speed.

¶Paint may be readily removed from windows by applying a cloth dipped in hot vinegar or acetic acid. This applied to brushes will soften them.

How To Build
A Canoe
By Stillman Taylor
PART III
Fitting a Motor into a Paddling Canoe

A stanchly built canoe of sufficient length and beam may be converted into a light, serviceable, and convenient power boat by the installation of a light-weight motor of about 2 hp. While the craft thus becomes less available for shallow waters and cannot be used so readily on trips where portages are necessary, a power canoe has advantages in that longer trips may be undertaken with less regard for weather conditions. Greater speed and the fact that physical power need not be expended also increase the value and range of operations of such a craft.

Unless a motor of extremely light weight is procured, a canoe of frail construction and less than 16 ft. long is not likely to stand the jar of the driving mechanism. The canoe illustrated in the [page plate] is 18 ft. long, of 36-in. beam, and strongly planked, decked, and braced. A canoe of even broader beam would tend to give more stability in rough water, and if it is desired to transport heavy camping packs, or other material, in the craft, this factor should be observed particularly. Likewise, the depth and draft must be considered, as the carrying capacity and seaworthiness of a canoe depend in part on these factors. The fitting of the various parts of the mechanism and accessories must be done with the aim of balancing the load evenly. If properly disposed, the weight of these parts should tend to lower the center of gravity of the canoe, thus rendering it more stable.

The actual work of installing the motor and fittings should be preceded by careful planning and the making of a full-size diagram of the stern portion of the canoe as rebuilt. Too much care cannot be taken in this work, as, if it is neglected, the craft may be rendered unsafe, or the motor and fittings may not operate satisfactorily. The motor should be set in the stern, as shown in the [illustration], as this will permit the use of a minimum of shafting and other fittings which must be accommodated. The exact location of the motor may vary with canoes and engines of different types. This should be tested out by placing the motor in the canoe and noting the effect on its balance in the water. For a canoe of the dimensions indicated, and a light-weight motor, 5 ft. from the stern is a satisfactory position. The motor should be placed as low in the canoe as possible, allowing the flywheel and crank case sufficient clearance below.

A convenient method of operation is as follows: Place the canoe on boxes, or sawhorses, taking care that it is properly supported about 2 ft. from the ground, or floor. Take measurements directly from the canoe, or part to be fitted, whenever convenient. Procure two sheets of paper, 30 in. wide and 7 ft. long; mark one “diagram” and the other “templates,” and use the former for the full-size detail and the other for the making of templates for curved or irregular parts.

Begin the diagram by drawing the base line AB, [Fig. 3]. This is the lower line of the engine bed and the upper surface of the ribs. Draw the line CD perpendicular to the base line, and 18 in. from the left end of the sheet. The point C is the center of the stern end of the driving shaft. The dimensions of parts are not given, except in special instances, since they must be obtained from the particular canoe and other parts entering into the construction. Indicate the layer of ribs E, the planking F, and the keel G. Using the template sheet, cut a template or pattern for the curved stern. This may be readily and accurately done by fixing a straightedge to the keel and permitting it to extend to A. Rest the long edge of the sheet on the straightedge when fitting the template to the curve. Use the template as a guide in marking the curve on the diagram, as at HJ. The curve K, of the stern decking, may be indicated similarly.

Determine the distance the motor is to be set from the stern and indicate it by the perpendicular line L. Measuring from the base line, indicate the height of the center of the motor shaft from the floor, as at M. This should be made as low as possible, permitting sufficient clearance for the flywheel and the crank case. Draw a straight line from C to M, which will thus indicate the center line of the driving shaft. This line is fundamental in determining the dimensions and placing of certain parts and fittings, and should be established with extreme care. The size and exact position of the engine bed N may now be indicated. Its dimensions, given in detail in the perspective sketch, [Fig. 5], are suggestive only. They may be varied in order to provide proper bearing on the floor, and so that the bolts holding the bed may pass through ribs. The cross brace at the forward end is important, and should be fitted carefully over a rib. The upper line of the engine bed must not be confounded with the center line of the shaft, for in many engines they are on a horizontal line when viewed from the forward end, yet not necessarily so. The slant of the engine bed must be made accurately, as any deflection from the angle of the center line of the shaft will disarrange the installation.

The shaft log O may next be indicated and a template made for use in guiding the bit when boring the hole for the shaft through it. The template used for the curve HJ may be altered by drawing the shaft log on it at the proper place. The point P, from which the bit is to be started when the shaft log is fixed into place, should be indicated and the center line of the shaft extended to Q, may then be used as a guide for the bit. If the homemade type of bearing R is used, it should be indicated on the diagram. A metal bearing may be made, or a suitable one obtained from dealers in marine hardware. In the latter case it will probably be necessary to block up the bottom of the canoe in order to provide a flat, horizontal bearing surface for the bearing flange.

The rudder and other parts, which are not directly connected with the motive-power unit, may be indicated in detail on the diagram or be made from sketches of a smaller scale. Paper patterns, made full size, offer a convenient method of outlining the parts of the engine bed, the rudder, and other irregular pieces. When the diagram is complete, measurements may be transferred directly from it without reducing them to figures, and, wherever possible, parts should be fitted to it.

The shaft log, shaft bearing, and engine bed may be made of oak, or other strong hard wood. It will be found desirable to have the engine bed complete before an attempt is made to fit the shaft and its connections. It is made of 1¹⁄₂-in. stock, bolted together with lag screws and fixed firmly into the canoe with bolts. The heads of the bolts should be provided with cotton and red-lead packing, and care should be taken that the bolts pass through ribs.

The shaft log should be fixed into place before it is bored. Bolts may be passed through it and fastened on the inside if there is room for drawing up the nuts in the stern. Large screws may be used to aid in the fastening and smaller screws may be used from the inside. The lower rudder support will also aid in holding the log in place, and the iron straps S, [Fig. 3], will insure its rigidity. This is an important point in the construction, as if the log is not fixed positively, the thrashing of the propeller will soon loosen it.

Fig. 1

Fig. 2

Fig. 3

Fig. 4

Fig. 5

A Light-Weight, Two-Horsepower Motor Installed in a Stanch 18-Foot Canoe will Increase the Range and Utility of Such a Craft; the Construction Shown Is Simple and within the Capabilities of a Careful Novice of Fair Mechanical Skill. A View of the Stern from Above is Shown in Fig. 1. The Engine is Shown Mounted on the Engine Bed, and near the Stern the Shaft Block is Shown. A Partial Sectional View is Shown in Fig. 2. The Relation of the Engine and Bed, Shaft and Fittings, Shaft Block, Shaft Log, and Rudder are Shown. The Construction Diagram, Fig. 3, is Described in Detail in the Text. A Larger-Scale View and a Section of the Shaft Block are Indicated in Fig. 4, and Fig. 5 Illustrates the Engine Bed with Dimensions and Fastening Holes

A detail of the shaft bearing R is shown in [Fig. 4]. The hole to receive the shaft must be bored accurately, and the use of the template, as with the boring of the shaft log, is advisable. Flanged metal bearings are provided to take up the wear in the bearing block. The method of fastening the block, as shown in the detail view, insures a rigid bearing with a minimum of holes through the bottom of the canoe. A U-bolt, T, binds the double angle brace U and the block firmly to the keel. The angles of the brace are fixed into the sides of the canoe with bolts, and a bolt at the stern end of the block supports it further. The block should be placed so that it will bear on three ribs and must be fitted to the curve of the canoe.

The rudder is made of sheet metal supported on a rod or pipe. Its general dimensions are shown in [Fig. 2]. The fan of the rudder is riveted to its supports and rests in a bearing strip of ¹⁄₄ by 1-in. strap iron, which is shaped as a guard for the propeller. The upper bearing of the rudder post is formed from a strip of iron, bolted to the stern, and the upper guide bar, to which the ropes are attached, is cut from an iron strip.

The propeller is 8 in. in diameter, but may be installed of a size suitable to the power, speed, and type of the motor used. The stuffing box V, [Fig. 2], the bearings for the bearing block R, the intake strainer W, the exhaust outlet X, [Fig. 1], and the shaft coupling Y are all of manufactured types that may be purchased of marine-supply houses.

The intake strainer W is placed in the bottom directly below the pump Z. The exhaust outlet X is placed above the water line, and a muffler should be installed to avoid noise from the exhaust explosions. The exhaust may be conducted under water or to a point near the stern. No indication is given for the placing of the gasoline tank, the supply pipes, electrical-energy source, and wiring. The tank may be placed in the stern of the canoe high enough to provide a good flow. A magneto may be used to give current for the sparking circuit, or batteries may be provided. They may be placed at any point convenient, and should be incased in a waterproof container.

In assembling the parts care must be taken not to wrench the shaft or other pieces out of line, and in general, it is well to fix nonadjustable parts solidly when they are fitted into place. This applies particularly to the engine bed and the shaft log. The bearing block may be adjusted vertically by adding packing, or by reducing the lower surface. The rudder and its fittings may be made in regular course, but should not be fitted until the power unit and driving mechanism is in place finally. The propeller may be protected from possible injury by laying it aside until needed. All the openings in the hull through which bolts or other fastenings are placed should be packed with red lead or other waterproof packing. The working parts and finished metal surfaces should be oiled or greased thoroughly as the parts are assembled, and the unfinished metal parts painted with red lead. This will protect them from moisture and aid in the smooth operation of the mechanism.