Paddling in Open and White Water
Dangerous for the Novice, but Experts Win Races in This Position
When traveling in the open waters of large lakes where heavy winds and seas are commonly encountered, paddling should always be done on the knees, and the canoeist’s own experience and judgment must be called upon to meet constantly changing conditions of the wind and water. To cross a broad stretch of wind-swept water where whitecaps are running high, means a long, hard fight, and the stern paddler must be ever alert to ease the canoe through breaking crests and shift his balance whenever the necessity arises. When paddling in rough water, many canoeists make the mistake of driving their craft too hard, consequently the canoe will “pound” when it reaches the trough of the sea, and much unnecessary spray is sent flying aboard. Of course, in rough water some spray is certain to come over the rail, but if the craft is well balanced by stowing the camp duffle so that the canoe floats on an even keel, it will, with proper handling, weather a pretty stiff gale.
When paddling against a heavy sea and wind, the regular stroke must be altered and modified, and the man in the stern may often balance his craft by holding his paddle in the water while a particular high comber sweeps by. Short and clean strokes are essential for handling the canoe in a heavy sea, and while the skillful canoeist can handle his craft in the trough of the sea when the need arises, it is hazardous for the novice to attempt it. In heavy weather, it is a good thing to keep one paddle in the water while the other is in the air, hence the experienced canoeist will—unconsciously perhaps—alternate or “split” strokes with his bowman.
To paddle, head on, into heavy seas is slow and tiresome work, and most canoeists find it easier to take the seas on the quarter, and the stern paddler must be ever on the lookout, nursing his craft over the big ones and often turning his bow into the largest combers. To be sure, the canoe will plunge more or less and yaw about, but the stern paddler merely checks this side spin, since he cannot prevent it entirely and drive his craft onward at the same time. When running before the wind, it is only necessary to keep the canoe balanced or “trimmed” to keep things dry. Here the bow paddler has the best of it; his sole duty is to keep paddling steadily ahead, while the balancing and handling of the canoe rests with the man in the stern. This point is well worth remembering, for to keep the canoe right side up when shooting rapids or when bucking heavy seas or a lake, the bow paddler must stick to his seat. He can, from his position in the bow, quickly note rocks or other obstructions and pass the word to his partner, who from his point of advantage can likewise better size up the effect of a high wave upon the craft. Probably more capsizes have resulted through the bowman’s mistaken efforts to balance the canoe by leaning to one side, or attempting to dodge the spray in rough-water paddling, than through the inability of the stern paddler to handle his craft.
Running a rapid stream in a canoe is replete with excitement, but it is likewise a dangerous bit of fun for the inexperienced canoeist who has not fully mastered the handling of his craft. When running rapids where the water is fairly deep, the use of the paddle is the better way, providing both paddlers kneel in the bottom of the canoe. Unknown streams are naturally the most dangerous, although the veteran canoeist can “size” up the character of the stream at the first glance, that is, the trained eye of the woodsman will read the bottom of the river by the indications on the surface; depth of water, strength of current, swirl caused by submerged rocks, and many other details are evident to him. To the novice these signs mean but little. If the current flow is from three to four miles per hour, rocks or submerged logs, 4 or 5 in. below the surface, will show very little, but in a 10-mile or swifter current obstructions 12 or even 18 in. below the surface will throw up swirling ripples, and in a very rocky stream with much water flowing, rocks 3 or 4 ft. below will throw up waves of good size. Again, waves are caused by swift water striking the comparatively quiet water of a deep pool and the canoeist should be able to determine the difference between them in order to know what part of the stretch is dangerous and that which may be run in safety.
The waves in a rapid stream are altogether unlike the rolling waves of the open lake, in that the crests follow one another closely and the canoe cannot rise, but plunges through the curling crests. Rocks on the surface are easily avoided, as they split the current, and it is only necessary to steer the craft to one side to pass them safely. The one chief thing to do when shooting the rapids is to keep the canoe on an even keel and the bow into the current, and when it is necessary to change channels, the craft must be shot diagonally across the fast water. To keep the canoe under perfect control in white water, it must be propelled faster than the current flows, and the force of the stream must not strike one side of the bow with greater force than it exerts on the other side. When a canoe swings around in the current, the power of the paddles will be unable to cope with the more powerful current, which quickly swings it broadside and one is struggling in the water in the next instant.
The Double Blade Is Often Useful When Paddling Single-Handed on a Broad Reach of Wind-Swept Water
On a long canoe trip where much rapid water must be run, a “setting pole” should be reckoned a necessity. The pole may be a stout sapling, 10 ft. long, cut by the stream side, but an iron shoe, or spike, about 3 in. long, with an iron band or ferrule, should be carried in the kit, the iron spike being simply driven in the end of the green pole. The pole may be used to good advantage when running down shallow rapids, the man in the bow kneeling and using his paddle to help steer while his partner stands in the stern and wields the pole. When traveling up shallow and swift streams, the setting pole is absolutely necessary, and while at first it is an awkward implement to handle, a little practice will enable the canoeist to pole his craft with very little more effort than is required to paddle it. The use of the pole necessitates a standing position, but this is neither risky nor difficult for any canoeist who understands the knack of balancing a canoe, and none but an experienced canoeist has any business in swift, white water. The setting pole is gripped with the left hand near the top, with the right hand held stationary about 2 ft. lower, and as the canoe travels past the pole, firmly planted on the river bottom, the poler leans forward and makes use of his weight and strength to give a quick push. The pole is again shoved forward as quickly as possible, that the craft may lose as little headway as possible, and a new grip secured for the next push. After a little experience with the pole, the canoeist will find it an easy matter to swing his craft across the current and avoid rocks and other obstructions as easily as when paddling. When contemplating a long trip up a stream where the water is heavy and the current swift, the use of two poles will make the work easier. Both persons should pole from the same side, the man in the bow doing the steering while the stern man adds his straight-ahead push to force the canoe upstream.
Shifting the Paddle from One Side of the Canoe to The Other