Planking the Canoe
As a canoe is planked with ¹⁄₈-in. cedar it is easily bent to the curve of the ribs while cold, thus doing away with the trouble of steaming. Unlike heavier-planked craft the planking is not rabbeted at the stem but is nailed to the beveled surface. For strength and to give a perfectly smooth skin on which to lay the canvas, it is advisable to run the planking the full length from stem to stem. Begin by putting on the garboard strake, which is the bottom plank at the keel. Punch holes in the plank with an awl, not directly in line, but staggered from side to side along the ribs. This will prevent the possibility of splitting. Drive in the copper clout nails while the plank is kept in place with a clamp to facilitate the work. Hold a clinch iron, or any handy piece of iron, inside and clinch the nails so that the ends are well imbedded in the rib on the inside. It is a simple matter to fit each plank in place, because they are merely a close fit at the edge, butted together without beveling. The number of planks required will depend upon the width, and while wider strips may be used, planking cut to the width of 3 in. is generally employed. In any case the top plank or sheer strake should be level with the gunwale from one stem to the other. When the hull is completely planked, cut off the ends of the planking to the curve of the stems and gunwales. The backbone and molds may now be taken out by sawing the backbone in two. Tack a couple of strips across the gunwales to keep the hull from sagging out of shape, then drive the nails over the sections the molds occupied, since these forms prevented doing this work before.