Sailors’ Sweetheart Picture Frame
The Center Panel is Reserved for the Sailor’s Sweetheart, and in the Others Pictures of Relatives are Placed
The boys on United States battleships are fond of making trinkets and souvenirs to be sent home, and the sailors’ sweetheart picture frame shown in the sketch is a favorite. Speaking from experience, I know that many “landlubbers” will be interested in this novelty, although coming from a man-of-war makes it more interesting. I have been there and, therefore, I know. The place of honor in the center is of course reserved for the lady. The smaller picture openings may be filled with penny pictures of father and mother, or other relatives.—Contributed by Charles Rorer, Bridgeport, Connecticut.
Woven Reed Furniture
By CHARLES M. MILLER
Taborets and Small Tables for the
Summer Veranda
[The various materials referred to in this article by number or size were described in detail in an article on “A Reed Basket,” in the Boy Mechanic, Book 2, page 257.]
Utility and ready portability are well recognized features of woven-reed furniture, but the qualities which make it especially attractive for summer use in the open air, or on the veranda, are its inviting comfort and graceful lines. While furniture of this type arranged in suites makes a particularly harmonious showing, individual pieces may be used in combination with other furniture, lending a touch of variety. Small tables or taborets, of light weight and simple design, may be made by the novice, and may be adapted to a variety of uses. Footstools, jardinière stands, sewing tables, yard tables, and smoking stands are some of the possibilities. Three representative types are shown in [Figs. 1 to 3], and the general method of construction as well as the details of the weaving are also [illustrated].
A serviceable taboret or stand is illustrated in [Fig. 1]. It is 18 in. high, and 17 in. in diameter on the top. The sides are 9 in. wide at the top and 14 in. at the bottom.
The framework for the top of the stand consists of a disk of wood, 16 in. in diameter, with a similar one, 14 in. in diameter, directly underneath, the edge being set under 1 in. all around. Four legs of 1-in. doweling support it, and two cross braces of doweling are placed between diagonally opposite corner posts, behind the woven portions of the side. The grain of the wood in the upper disk should run at right angles to that of the lower, to prevent warping, and the disks should be fastened together with nails or screws. Avoid putting them into the lower disk, where the legs are to be fixed.
To locate the position for the legs, draw a diameter on the under side of the top, as at A, [Fig. 4], and 4 in. on either side of it draw parallel lines B and C. Draw another diameter, D, at right angles to A, and draw the parallel lines E and F 4 in. from the diameter D. Where the four outside lines intersect will be the centers of the holes for the legs. These holes are not bored perpendicularly, but are slanted to conform to the slant of the leg. A template should be used in guiding the bit, as shown at G, Fig. 4. It may be constructed of wood, 3 in. wide and 5 in. long, [Fig. 5]. Place the gauge just outside the edge of the hole to be bored. Nail it to the board lightly on the diagonal, as shown, and guide the bit against it.
Before the legs are fixed into place finally, the holes for the spokes of the side should be bored. The parallel lines of [Fig. 4] now serve another purpose, that of giving the location of the spokes. Place one spoke ¹⁄₂ in. from each leg, and the others 1 in. apart. The legs are utilized as spokes in the weaving. The spokes should be double, and the extra spokes may be inserted beside the original ones, after the weaving has progressed a few rounds. Number 5 reed should be used for the spokes and No. 4 reed for the weavers, which are woven back and forth around the spokes.
Drive the legs into their sockets, applying glue, and pin them with nails, as at H, [Fig. 4]. Tack strips on the bottoms of two pairs of legs and then fasten two strips to brace them, as shown in [Fig. 6]. The strips should be put on and the distance between the legs spaced before the glue sets.
It is best to weave the sides before beginning the top, so as to prevent rubbing the woven top while weaving the sides, with the stand inverted. The side spokes should be 2 ft. long and should be set into the top 1 in., with glue. Turn the top of the stand down on a table, and begin the weaving at the under side of the top. Single weaving is used for the sides, every other round passing twice around the legs.
There being four sides in the construction, there will be an even number of spokes, even though there should be an odd number to each side. The weaving would thus repeat itself, in going behind and before the same spoke each time. This is not desirable in this construction, and a change should be made each round. To do this, go over two spokes, instead of one, at the finish of a round. Such a “skip” is an Indian method, and forms a design that may be carried in slanting lines back and forth down the side of the stand. It is best to confine these “skips” to one side. Another way to overcome the repeat, as the weaving in and out around the same spokes in two successive layers is called, is to insert an extra spoke on one side, thus making an odd number of spokes around the stand. It is necessary then to conform the design of the open work for this side to the number of spokes. The design for the open work shown in [Fig. 2] will be used for the stand illustrated in [Fig. 1], and to be described in detail. The first of the two methods of overcoming the “repeat” will be used.
Insert the extra reed for doubling the spokes, after a few rounds have been woven adjoining the top. The method of weaving from the corner post and the making of the open design are shown in [Figs. 7 and 8]. The method of “pairing” for winding the reed in and out of the spokes, is shown in [Figs. 9 and 10]. The rear weaver of the pair of strands is thrown over the forward weaver, back of the next spoke and out. The fore weaver then becomes the rear one, and is thrown in like manner. This process is repeated in order to make the complete rounds. Figure 9 shows the weaving from the side, and Fig. 10 is a view looking down on top of the spokes and the edge of the weaving, shown in section. Pairing gives a continuous rope twist to the two weavers, and an even or odd number of spokes is equally suitable.
For the open designs of [Fig. 2], one or more of which may be placed in the side of the stand, the center spokes are left free, as shown in [Fig. 7]. Before turning the first weaver back for the open work, as at M, start a short weaver N about two spokes back from the opening, and pair it with the regular weaver across the opening, and two spokes beyond. In turning back on the spokes, the single weaver goes twice around the spokes, as shown by the intermediate layers O. This is a short bend and the weavers must be very soft. Use short ones and wet them frequently with a sponge. A sectional view of the weaving at the opening is shown in [Fig. 8], as it joins with the weaving around the corner posts. At K, the weaver turns back on a double thickness of reed, and at L, a short spoke is set back of the other two, and the weaver is wound around the three, thus lessening the abruptness of the winding. The latter method is the better. At the horizontal center of the opening, two rounds continue across the opening and around the stand. Pair a short piece of reed across at the finish of the openings, as was done at the lower end at N, Fig. 7.
After weaving to within 5 in. of the bottom of the legs, cut off the extra member of the double spokes, and soak the ends of the remaining spokes in water. Braid them into the border finish, as shown in [Fig. 1]. The corner posts serve as spoke spaces, and the spokes nearest them are wound around the bottom ends of the legs. Short spokes may be inserted beside the posts and wound around them if the ends of the spokes are not long enough for this purpose.
| Fig. 1 | Fig. 2 | Fig. 3 | ||
| Fig. 5 | ||||
| Fig. 6 | Fig. 7 | Fig. 4 | ||
| Fig. 11 | ||||
| Fig. 12 | ||||
| Fig. 8 | Fig. 19 | |||
| Fig. 15 | Fig. 16 | Fig. 20 | ||
| Fig. 9 | Fig. 13 | Fig. 14 | ||
| Fig. 10 | ||||
| Fig. 17 | ||||
| Fig. 18 | ||||
Taborets, of Light Weight and Simple Design, may be Made by the Novice and Adapted to a Variety of Uses in the Home. They Are Particularly Attractive for the Summer Veranda. Sewing Tables, Jardinière Stands, Taborets, Footstools, Card Tables, and Smoking Stands Are Some of the Possibilities. A Taboret, or Small Stand, is Illustrated in Fig. 1, and the Details of Its Construction are Also Shown. The Tall Stand illustrated in Fig. 2 Involves the Same General Principles of Construction, Modified to Suit the Framework. The Footstool Shown in Fig. 3 Is Typical of Stands Having Vertical Sides
The top may be made next. Holes are bored horizontally into the edge of the under disk, as shown in [Figs. 4 and 11]. In [Fig. 12] the holes are shown bored into the edge on an angle. This method gives a thicker rolled edge to the top, although both methods are satisfactory. These holes must be bored before the work on the top is begun. There are two ways of beginning the weaving for the top. The radial spokes may cross each other in groups of four, the upper and lower courses being bound together with winding reed, as shown in [Fig. 13], or a small maple disk may be used as a center from which the spokes radiate, as shown in [Figs. 14 and 20]. The center-disk method is not difficult, and is used extensively. The other type is novel, and also quite feasible.
The spokes for the method shown in [Fig. 13] are bound together in the following manner: Place two spokes at right angles to each other and wind them with winding reed, the end of the latter beginning between the two spokes, as shown at P, [Fig. 15]. The perpendicular spoke is uppermost. Add a second perpendicular spoke and bind it into place, as at Q. Continue this process until four perpendicular spokes have been bound in as at R. Place a second horizontal reed into position and go over each vertical spoke with a separate winding, as in the first course. Continue until four horizontal spokes are bound in, and the end of the winding reed is looped around the last, as shown at S. The spokes should be of No. 5 reed, and 24 in. long.
Four groups of four spokes each will result by following out the process described. Separate the spokes by drawing the outer ones into the corner spaces. They should have the appearance of spokes in a wheel, as in [Fig. 16]. Use two weavers of No. 4 reed, in the pairing weave, as shown in Fig. 16, and in detail in [Figs. 9 and 10]. Continue the pairing weave until a center, 8 in. in diameter, is woven. Crowd up the weaving closely, for the appearance of the top will depend much on the first few rounds. Hold the center with the left hand, and manipulate the weavers until they are well seated in their proper places.
When a few rounds have been woven, nail the center securely to its place on the middle of the top. This will leave both hands free for the weaving. After a disk, 8 in. in diameter, has been woven, begin the triple weave illustrated in [Figs. 17 and 18]. As the triple weave is begun, add another spoke, 8 in. long, between each pair, all around the top, making 16 new and 16 original spokes. When two or three rounds are woven, the new spokes will become secure. Continue the triple weave to the edge of the top. Measure and cut the end of the spokes to uniform length. Curve the ends over the edge to see how much will be needed before cutting, allowing about ¹⁄₂ in. for insertion into the holes in the edge.
Wet the ends of the spokes with water until they are pliable enough for the curve. Bending and tying them down while wet and permitting them to dry in this position, as shown in [Fig. 19], is desirable also. Weave down the curve of the roll and insert the ends of the spokes in their respective holes with glue. Then with the single, plain weave on the under side of the roll, weave well up to the ends of the spokes.
For the disk-center method of construction, as shown in [Figs. 14 and 20], use ¹⁄₂-in. maple, and cut it 5 in. in diameter for the centerpiece. To locate holes on the edge of the disk draw a line ³⁄₁₆ in. from the upper edge and mark off spaces 1 in. apart, except four, which are made ¹⁵⁄₁₆ in. apart, to make a convenient division, practically uniform. Bore the holes ³⁄₄ in. deep. Number 5 reed is used for the spokes and No. 4 reed for the weavers. The disk should be toenailed around its edge with brads, fixing it firmly to the top before the spokes are inserted. Proceed with the pairing weave, as in the other method described, until 2 in. of the spokes is covered; then change to the triple weave and add additional spokes. Proceed as with the other type from this point on.
The taboret is braced by two 1-in. dowel rods, placed 2 in. above the bottom roll of the sides and extending from one corner to the other, diagonally. Their crossing at the center may be made into a halved joint, by cutting away one-half of each rod on the adjacent edges. The ends are fitted closely into the corners, and are nailed to the legs.
A taller stand or small table, the side weaving of which has been described as applied to the taboret shown in [Fig. 1], is illustrated in [Fig. 2]. The construction in general is similar. A lighter roll is used for the top, and the bottom ends of the legs are curved outward slightly. The legs are curved by steaming the ends of the corner posts, clamping them into position, and permitting them to dry.
The footstool, shown in [Fig. 3], may be made as a miniature stand, with vertical legs, and the spokes set in a circle under the top board. The spokes and weavers will carry the form, if well woven. The stool may also be braced, to withstand hard usage. It should be about 12 in. in diameter at the top, 10 in. in diameter for the body, and 6 in. in height.
The method of forming the opening shown in the side of the taboret in [Fig. 1], and the weaving of the construction, will be readily understood from the method described. The principles and methods presented may be applied readily to other construction of the same general type. The physical limitations of reed, as a constructive material, and the necessity for a substantial framework must always be considered in such adaptations in order to obtain satisfactory results.
¶One ounce of nitrate of iron added to 8 oz. of hyposulphite of soda in a gallon of water and applied hot, produces a green finish on brass.