Sanitary Holder for Thread and Dental Floss
A simple and convenient method of protecting a spool of thread, or dental floss, from collecting dirt and germs is shown in the illustration. A small glass jar, with a metal screw top, is procured, of such a size that it will easily accommodate the spool of thread desired to protect, with at least ¹⁄₈ in. clearance all around the edge of the spool. Procure a short piece of stiff wire, not more than ¹⁄₁₆ in. in diameter, and make a frame similar in form to the one shown. The center portion of this frame should be just a little longer than the spool, so that a small wood key may be placed through the eye formed in the wire and thus hold the spool firmly on the frame. The outside portions of the frame should be such a distance apart that they will rest against the sides of the jar and of such a length that they will reach from the bottom to the top of the jar when the lid is screwed down tightly. If these dimensions are observed, the spool and frame will remain in a fixed position in the jar.
A small opening, just a little larger than the thread, is made in the center of the lid, through which the thread is to pass. The edges of this opening are smoothed off so that they will not cut the thread when it is being drawn out. A small cutter may be made by forming a V-shaped opening in the lid, through which the thread is to pass. The edges of the V-shaped piece are sharpened to serve as a cutting edge. The end of the thread will be held under the V-shaped piece after it is cut, thus preventing it from falling back into the jar.
¶The word “diameter” when applied to gears is always understood to mean the pitch diameter.
The Sporting Rifle
and How to Use It
by Stillman Taylor
Sportsmen are interested in rifles and rifle shooting largely from the hunting standpoint, although target shooting is a favorite sport with many of them. This discussion of the sporting rifle will be concerned, therefore, principally with the hunting aspects, other forms of shooting being considered as good methods of practice, and the development of skill in the use of hunting weapons. The novice, as well as the good shot, must have a suitable weapon, and should have at least a general knowledge of the types of rifles available, and their common uses. A number of representative types of rifles are shown in [Fig. 1], and the details of the breech mechanisms and sights in [Fig. 2]. Targets and a homemade device for backing them are shown in [Fig. 3]. The [full-page illustration] shows several positions in the use of the rifle; a moving-target arrangement, to be constructed by the ambitious shot; a diagram of the trajectory of a rifle bullet, and several diagrams of the vital shots, in hunting common big game.
The single-shot rifle, shown at A, [Fig. 1], has been largely supplanted by the repeater and the automatic, so far as hunting is concerned. For use exclusively in indoor shooting, a heavy rifle of the “Schuetzen” type is best suited. A high-grade ornamented rifle of this type is shown in the headpiece of this article.
The most popular type of American rifle is the repeater of the lever-action variety, shown at B. The lever action embodies many good points: quickness of fire, ease of operation, freedom from jamming at a critical moment, strength, and plenty of stopping power. The mechanism of the lever-action repeating rifle is shown in detail at J, [Fig. 2], and that of the falling-breech-block type of single-shot rifle, at K. Several other types of lever-action rifles are shown in [Fig. 1].
Almost all lever-action repeaters are of the tubular-magazine type, the magazine extending under the barrel, sometimes the full length—full magazine; or halfway—half magazine. Rifles of these types are shown at B and C, and a hammerless repeater at D.
The trombone, or pump-action, repeating rifle, shown at E, has a mechanism similar to that used in the repeating shotgun, the sliding forearm loading and ejecting the cartridge. The merit of the military bolt-action rifle lies in its great strength and simplicity. A weapon of this type was used by Roosevelt in Africa, and by other big-game hunters. It is shown at F.
The chief advantages of the automatic rifle, shown at G, which is a comparatively new weapon, are its speed in firing and its almost noiseless action. This rifle has a recoil-operated action of the blow-back type. That shown at H has a box magazine, and the automatic action is based on the sliding of the barrel within a steel jacket. The rifle shown at I may be used either as an automatic or as a pump-action weapon.
The subject of stock and trigger adjustment is one to which every experienced rifleman devotes considerable attention. The regular stock rifle is built to standard dimensions, and often the stock is found a trifle short. For the man of average reach, a 13³⁄₄-in. stock, with a 1⁷⁄₈-in. drop at the comb, and about 3 in. drop at the heel, will be found satisfactory.
Fig. 1
Various Types of Rifles in Common Use: A, English Model, Single-Shot, with Open Sights and Shotgun Butt; B, Lever-Action Repeater, Tubular Half Magazine; C, Lever-Action Repeater, Box Magazine; D, Hammerless, Lever-Action Repeater; E, Pump-Action, High-Power Repeater; F, Military Bolt-Action, Sporting Model; G, Automatic, Blow-Back Action; H, Automatic, Box Magazine; I, Automatic, Combination Pump-Action
Rifle sights are of several types, of which there are in turn many variations. Only the essentials of the standard types will be considered. The regulation open sights, with which most rifles are fitted at the factory, are the buckhorn rear and the Rocky Mountain front sight. For a hunting rifle the most satisfactory sights are a gold-bead front sight of about ³⁄₃₂-in. diameter, as shown in [Fig. 2] at L; a folding-leaf rear sight, shown at O, P, and Q, and a combination rear aperture sight, at M and N, mounted on the tang of the rifle. An arm so sighted is useful for all kinds of shooting. The combination rear sight is used in deliberate shots at a target or at game, and the folding-leaf sight is better than the buckhorn for quick snap shooting.
The sportsman who wishes to master the use of a rifle must have a knowledge of the trajectory of such weapons, and particularly of the rifle he uses regularly. He must know, also, how to aline the sights correctly to get satisfactory results. The trajectory is the path which the rifle bullet takes in passing from the muzzle of the rifle to its mark. The force of gravity acts upon the bullet in flight and the result is that the trajectory is curved, as indicated in the diagram at the bottom of the page illustration. A relatively low trajectory is, of course, desirable in a hunting rifle. The black-powder, or slow-speed, cartridge has a relatively high trajectory, while the high-power smokeless cartridges have relatively low trajectories.
The adjustment of the sights of a rifle is also of much importance. Every rifle is targeted at the factory, but this may be done by a fair shot, using the following method: Arrange three boxes, so that the rifle barrel may rest upon one, and the arms of the marksman upon the other two. Place a bag of sand upon the box, so that the barrel may rest upon it, about 6 in. from the muzzle. Put the target into place, and adjust the sights for 100 yd. If the sights are properly lined up, the shots should fall quite regularly within a 10-in. circle. With peep, or other target, sights, much finer results will be obtained. In moving the sights it must be remembered that to move the rear sight to the right will bring the shot to the right, and vice versa, while if the front sight is moved to the right, the arm will shoot to the left. In making the test, first adjust the front sight so that it is in exact alinement with the center of the barrel, and then all corrections may be made by moving the rear sight.
The proper way to sight a rifle is to hold the front sight just clear of the notch in the rear sight, with the front bead barely touching the outer ring of the bull’s-eye, at the extreme bottom. This is shown at R, [Fig. 3]. It is the rule of good rifle shot to “see daylight between the sight and the bull’s-eye.” In any event, do not cover up the front sight by drawing it down into the notch of the rear sight, so that only the top of the bead is visible. Another frequent error is to hold the front sight to cover the bull’s-eye.
The Off-Hand, Knee-Support, and Prone Positions in Shooting should be Mastered by the Sportsman. The Diagrams Represent Several Vital Shots, the Moving Target, and the Trajectory of a Rifle Bullet
The sportsman who wishes to become a practical rifle shot should learn how to handle the rifle in the several useful positions, so that he may be able to sight accurately under different conditions. Several of the most widely used positions are shown in the page illustration. The off-hand position, with arm extended, is the most commonly used and best position for the sportsman to practice, for use in the woods. The off-hand, with body rest, or elbow resting on the hip, is good for target shooting. The “Schuetzen” style of holding the rifle, with palm rest, is used only in fine match shooting.
The knee-rest position is often useful for the sportsman in stalking game, when it is desirable to expose oneself as little as possible. A steadier aim may be secured, especially if a strong wind is blowing. The prone position is much used by military riflemen, but they are not permitted the muzzle rest, whereas the hunter often uses it. It is easy to learn, and more accurate shooting may be done in this position than in the off-hand or knee-rest positions.
For indoor practice at a target, the .22-caliber rifle is best. By fitting up a suitable backstop, shooting may be done safely in the cellar or attic. A satisfactory backstop may be made by fastening a plate of iron into a packing box, 3 ft. square, as shown in [Fig. 3]. The plate must be set at an angle so that the bullets will be deflected to the bottom of the box.
In order that the rifleman may check up his work, it is desirable that a standard target be used. The American standard target, shown in [Fig. 3], has been adopted by practically all rifle clubs, and, as the majority of records are made upon it, the sportsman should become familiar with it. The paper targets are inexpensive, and it is easy to draw accurate homemade targets from the original. By the use of disks of black and white paper—known as gummed target pasters—one target may be used several times.
If convenient to do so, the novice should shoot a string of shots every day, in the various positions. Do not try to hurry, but shoot deliberately at first, aiming to secure a good average, rather than a few bull’s-eye shots and many wild ones. With reasonable practice, it is not difficult to score eight bull’s-eyes out of ten shots, when using the prone position. Having attained this proficiency, the sportsman may be regarded as a fair shot, and is ready to take up outdoor target practice with the high-power rifle.
Fig. 2
J, Mechanism of Lever-Action Repeating Rifle; 2, Breechblock; 7, Cocking Lever; 19, Firing Pin, Front; 21, Firing Pin, Rear; 29, Guard Finger Lever; 34, Hammer; 36, Lifter; 37, Locking Slide; 45, Mainspring Plunger; 46, Mainspring Plunger Seat; 63, Trigger
K, Mechanism of Falling-Breechblock, Single-Shot Rifle; L, Gold-Bead Front Sight; M and N, Combination Rear Aperture or Tang Sight, Raised and Folded; O, P, Q, Folding-Leaf Rear Sight, Used as V-Crotched Sight, Straight-Bar Sight, and Folded Flat to Barrel
For outdoor target shooting the .22-caliber, long-rifle cartridge will give very accurate results up to 100 yd. The standard target has a bull’s-eye measuring 6 in. in diameter for 150 yd. Shooting may be tried for a while at a fixed range, then the target may be moved to an unknown distance and angle, and the marksman can try his hand at estimating distance. Instead of changing his sights at varying distances, the sportsman should learn how to estimate the distance of the mark and the approximate elevation of the sights to land the bullet within the circle. This is valuable practice for good shooting in the woods.
After considerable practice at the stationary target, quick firing may be varied by rigging up a sliding trolley arrangement, like that shown in the [page illustration]. It is easily made by setting up two poles, properly braced, one about 30 ft. tall, and the other about 10 ft., spaced 30 ft. apart. Between the poles, about 8 ft. from the ground, stretch a length of stiff telephone wire, and make a wooden target block W, with a metal sheave wheel, so that it may slide freely along the wire. On the tallest post, a little above the wire, fasten a metal pulley, Z, and at the top of the pole place a sash pulley. Then attach a stout cord to the target block, reeve it through the two pulleys, and attach a sandbag, or other weight, to the end of the cord, On the shorter post, a latch, or trigger, Y, is fastened to hold the target, which is released by pulling a string. With this easily constructed device, much valuable practice may be had, for if the pole is fairly high, the weight will cause the target to slide as rapidly as the average game bird travels. In using this moving target, just as good practice is obtained with a .22-caliber repeater as with a high-power gun. In fact, the high-velocity ammunition should be used only on a regular range, or where a suitable backstop is erected to stop the high-power bullets. Such a backstop may be constructed of heavy lumber, like old railroad ties, in the form of a crib, which is filled in with sand or earth. When a natural background, such as a mound or hill, is at hand, this may be used with safety, but a rocky hillside is not satisfactory, for it is likely to deflect the bullets, and may cause injury through stray shots.
Fig. 3
As our antlered game, like the moose, the Virginia deer, the caribou, and the elk, are held in higher esteem than other American big-game animals, a few practical hints on where to sight, may serve to bring better luck to the sportsman who has yet to bring in his first head. The shoulder shot, shown in the [rectangular sketch] at S, T and U, is taken by the experienced hunter whenever possible, in preference to any other. It is the object of this shot to break the shoulder joint, and thus prevent use of the forelegs. It is a vital shot, also, because there is a good chance of the bullet passing through either the heart or lungs, which will drop the game in its tracks. This is the most effective of all shots, and as the hunter more often draws a bead while the game is running away, the shoulder shot is used more than any other. The exact spot, at which the aim should be taken, depends upon the distance of the animal, and its rate of movement. If on the run and the range of 100 yd. or more, the sight should be taken at the point S. If less than this distance, sight at T, and, if the animal is standing still, take deliberate aim at U, within the dotted inclosure. This area represents what big-game hunters call the vital zone, and a soft-nose bullet, placed anywhere within this spot, will be certain to stop the game, often dropping it on the spot. It is possible to land a bullet in a vital spot at distances up to 500 yd. with a high-power rifle, but it is very likely that the game will be wounded only, and may escape to die a lingering death. In taking long shots at big game on the run, the sight should be taken well forward and a trifle higher than the marks given, since the hunter must allow for the trajectory of his arm and the time the bullet takes to reach its mark.
The front shot, shown at the right, has as its object to hit the heart or lungs. It is a useful shot, and the sight is taken at the cross indication on the breast. The head shot, shown in the circle, is a brain shot, and is used only by the experienced hunter, when it is difficult to land a shoulder or front shot. As the brain is well up to the top of the head, the best point of aim is shown at V, midway between the eyes and a trifle higher than their centers. This shot is most effective when the hunter stands a trifle above the game, or shoots when the game is charging head down. If on a level, aim just above the eye, and if close to the game, land the bullet just below the eye. The ear shot, as indicated by the cross, is taken at close quarters, and the point to sight for is the inside of the ear at its base.
A good rifle will give a lifetime of service, and the sportsman should take care of it. The best time to clean a firearm of any kind is as soon after shooting as possible, for the powder residue is then fresh and moist, and is more easily and quickly removed. Black powder can be removed with a wet rag, but smokeless powder not only leaves a little powder residue, but also a film of gummy residue on the steel which is not apparent to the eye. Common washing soda, dissolved in water to make a saturated solution, is used to remove it. Any of the ready-prepared nitro solvents are good for cleaning the rifle. A good way to clean a rifle is to use strips of cotton flannel, cut into squares of such size that they will fit snugly, but may be easily pushed through the barrel on the head of the metal cleaning rod. Always clean a rifle from the breech, if possible, by resting the muzzle on a few folded papers on the floor. Push a couple of dry wipers down to the floor to remove the carbon residue. Then saturate another square of cloth with the nitro solvent, and carefully swab out the barrel, turning the rod so that it will follow the spiral rifling. Repeat the operation two or three times; then take a clean wiper, moistened with the solvent, and repeat until the barrel is well lubricated with the cleaning fluid. The barrel should be well oiled with any good, thick oil, or liquid vaseline. The lock mechanism of the arm should be kept clean and very lightly lubricated with any good thin oil, and the gunstock polished with linseed oil.
Camera for Taking Pictures from a Kite
By CHARLES I. REID
When watching a kite flying at a considerable height one frequently wonders how the landscape appears from such a viewpoint as would be possible from a kite. Few of us can have the experience of a ride in an aeroplane, but it is quite possible to obtain a view from the kite, by proxy as it were, through the use of a kite camera. A kite of large dimensions would be necessary to carry an ordinary camera taking pictures of fair size, hence it is necessary to devise one of lighter construction, so that a kite of moderate size may carry it to a height of several hundred feet. Such a camera is shown in the [illustration] attached to a box kite. Details of construction are shown in the smaller [sketches].
A camera consists, briefly, of a light-proof box, with a lens at one end and a sensitive plate or film at the other. For a kite camera, a single achromatic lens will suit the purpose. Such a lens is not expensive and may be taken from a small camera. It must be obtained before the camera is begun, since the size of the latter is dependent upon the focal length of the lens and the size of the picture to be made. A camera taking pictures 2 in. square is satisfactory for kite photography, and if it is desired to enlarge the pictures, this may be done in the usual manner.
The box of the camera is made cone-shaped in order to reduce the weight and air resistance. Its sides are of light-weight, stiff cardboard, reinforced at the corners to insure that no light will enter. The back of the camera is a tight-fitting cover of cardboard, having the same measurements as the picture to be taken. The lens is fitted to an intermediate partition, as shown in the sketch. It is necessary to determine the focal length of the lens and to set it at a distance from the inner side of the cardboard back of the camera—the film surface—so that it will focus properly for photographing distant objects.
The Kite Camera Offers a Diversion in Photography, and Has Practical and Commercial Uses as Well. The Camera Shown Is of Light Weight, Simple Construction, and Produces Film Exposures Two Inches Square. A Sectional View of Its Construction is Given at the Left, and the Details of the Shutter Device at the Right
The front is provided with a circular opening of a size large enough not to obstruct the view of the lens. A shutter made of thin pressboard is fitted over the opening, as shown in the sketch at the right. A slit is cut in the shutter through which light is admitted in making the exposure as the shutter is drawn back. The size and width of the slit regulates the exposure, and a few trials must be made to determine the most suitable speed of exposure for the lens used. The shutter is pivoted at its lower end and drawn back by a rubber band. A string, to which a time fuse is attached, controls the releasing of the shutter to make the exposure. The string holds the shutter closed against the pull of the rubber band until the fuse burns up to the string, severing it. The fuse must be long enough to enable the kite to attain a suitable height before the string is burned. When the shutter has been set, and the fuse attached ready for lighting, the camera may be taken into the dark room for loading. A piece of film, cut to the proper size, is placed carefully into the light-proof sliding cover, as with a film pack, the sensitive side, of course, being placed nearest the lens.
The camera is attached to the kite securely at the middle, as shown, so that when the kite is in flight a view nearly straight down will be obtained. When all is in readiness the fuse is lighted and the kite started on its flight. By timing experimental flights, the required length of fuse may be determined in order to permit the kite to attain the desired height at the time of exposure.
The kite used for taking pictures from the air should be large enough to carry the kite easily. One of the box type illustrated is satisfactory, although other types may be used. A kite camera for the amateur has great possibilities for experimentation, but requires care in construction and a reasonable knowledge of photography. To the person willing to master the details, kite photography offers a pleasurable diversion as well as practical uses in photographing plots of ground, groups of buildings, manufacturing plants, and other subjects which cannot be photographed by other methods.