Shaving-Brush Holder
A shaving brush is injured by permitting it to remain in the mug to dry. It should be suspended with the hair down so that it may dry thoroughly and quickly. A hook made from a piece of wire bent to form a loop, with a pointed section at each side of it, may be made easily. The loop should be of a size to fit the thin portion of the handle, and the pointed ends of the wire are driven into the wall or other support. A loop may be made at each end instead of pointing the wire and the device fixed to the wall with two small screws placed through the end loops.
How To Build
A Canoe
By Stillman Taylor
PART I
Specifications and List of Materials
Canoe making is commonly considered more difficult than building the larger and heavier craft but many amateurs with only ordinary experience and tools have turned out satisfactory canoes, and if the simple directions given here are carefully followed out, the work will proceed rapidly and no difficulty will be encountered. Working with light materials, the canoe builder must pay particular attention to the workmanship, and, as it is many times more difficult to patch up mistakes in a canoe than it is in rowboats or other heavier craft, the work must not be hurried, but plenty of time taken to do each and every part well and in a workmanlike manner.
The craft described, which is the regulation open or Canadian model, is comparatively light and draws very little water. It is not a flimsy makeshift, but a stiff and thoroughly dependable canoe designed for long service, which, barring accidents and given reasonably good care, will continue to give satisfaction for many years. The tools needed are the common ones found in most homes, consisting of a rip and cross-cut saw, chisel, screwdriver, drawknife, awl, brace and bits, rule, hammer, vise, plane, and three or four cheap wood, or metal, screw clamps. The list of material given is for a canoe having a length of about 16 ft., 31-in. beam, 18-in. depth at the ends, 12¹⁄₂-in. depth amidships, and weighing from 60 to 70 lb., according to the material.
While oak or ash makes the best stems, other woods may be used, rock elm and fir being very satisfactory substitutes. Where cedar is specified, spruce pine, cypress, or fir may likewise be employed. The materials for molds and ribbands, which are required to give form to the craft, may be cut from any cheap stuff, and this will reduce the cost somewhat.
| STEM, 1 piece oak or ash, 6 ft. long and ³⁄₄ in. square. | ||
| KEELSON, (inside keel) 1 piece oak or ash 14 ft. long, 3¹⁄₂ in. wide, ³⁄₈ in. thick. | ||
| GUNWALES, 2 pieces oak or ash, 16 ft. long, ⁷⁄₈ in. wide, ¹⁄₂ in. thick. | ||
| SEAT RISINGS, 2 pieces oak or ash, ¹⁄₂ in. square. | ||
| FENDERWALES, 34 ft. ¹⁄₂-in. half-round molding. Oak or ash best for hard knocks. | ||
| OUTSIDE KEEL (may be omitted if desired), 1 piece oak, 14 ft. by 1 in. by ¹⁄₂ in. thick. | ||
| DECK BEAMS, 2 pieces oak or ash, 8 in. long, 1¹⁄₈ in. wide, ³⁄₄ in. thick. | ||
| SEAT FRAMES, 2 pieces oak or ash, 30 in. long, 3 in. wide, ³⁄₄ in. thick. | ||
| SEAT FRAMES, 2 pieces oak or ash, 12 in. long, 2¹⁄₄ in. wide, ³⁄₄ in. thick. | ||
| PLANKING, cedar or pine, 100 sq. ft., ¹⁄₈ in. thick. Best secured by purchasing 25 ft. of 1-in. lumber,and having same dressed on two sides to ¹⁄₈ in. thick, and in lengths of 12, 14 and 16 ft. This willgive the minimum amount of waste. | ||
| BACKBONE, 1 piece cedar or pine, any cheap stuff, 16 ft. long, 4 in. wide, ⁷⁄₈ in. thick. | ||
| MOLDS, 1 piece any cheap stuff, 16 ft. long, 1 ft. wide, ⁷⁄₈ in. thick. | ||
| RIBBANDS, 8 pieces any cheap stuff, 14 ft. long, ³⁄₄ in. wide, ¹⁄₂ in. thick. | ||
| RIBS, 360 running feet, cedar, 1³⁄₄ in. wide, ¹⁄₈ in. thick. | ||
| BREAST HOOKS OR DECKS, 1 piece cedar or oak, 32 in. long, 9 in. wide, ³⁄₄ in. thick. | ||
| 1 | lb. 2-in. wire nails to make form for keel. | |
| 1 | lb. ⁵⁄₈-in. copper clout nails, for fastening ribs. | |
| ¹⁄₂ | lb. ³⁄₄-in. copper clout nails, for fastening seat risings. | |
| 18 | 1¹⁄₄-in. No. 8 brass screws, for fastening decks and deck beams. | |
| 24 | 1-in. No. 6 brass screws, for fastening seats. | |
| 4 | lb. patent marine glue to cement canvas to planking. | |
| 3 | oz. No. 2 ounce copper tacks to fasten canvas with. | |
| 11 | ³⁄₄ | yd. No. 6 ounce canvas for covering hull. |
| 1 | lb. ³⁄₈-in. copper tacks to fasten planking to ribs. | |