The boy mechanic, book 3

by Unknown

The Telemark-Model Ski

This form of ski, so called from the Telemarken province of Norway, where the art of ski running has reached a high order of skill, is probably the choice of the sportsmen wherever the exhilarating sport of ski running is practiced, and the larger portion of the members of the numerous skiing clubs use the Telemark-model ski. This type is practically identical with the most popular model so long used in Telemarken, and the rule for its selection is to choose a pair whose length reaches the middle joint of the fingers when the arm is stretched above the head. There are various makers of this type of ski, and while the modeling will be found to differ but little, there are numerous brands sold which are fashioned of cheap and flimsy material, and consequently unsatisfactory in every respect.

The Telemark model is shown in [Fig. 1], and from this sketch it will be seen that the wood has two curves or bends, one running its entire length to form a graceful arch, and the second, at the toe. The first one is technically known as the “arch,” and the other curve the “bend,” while the front or toe end of the ski is called the “point,” and the rear end the “heel.” In almost all skis the under, or running, surface is provided with a hollow, known as the “groove,” which runs from the heel to the bend. It will be noticed in the drawing that the sides also are gently curved, thus making the ski a trifle broader at the ends than in the center. This curve affords a somewhat greater bend at the heel, and while some experts approve, others disapprove of it, but most ski runners agree that the curve should not be pronounced, or it will prove a handicap and make it difficult for the runner to secure a firm grip at the edge when ascending steep slopes covered with hard snow.

The “arch” of the ski is necessary to avoid bending when the weight of the body is on the runner, and the total height of this important curve should not exceed ³⁄₄ in., for a too exaggerated arch will practically form a concave running surface and retard the speed, since it will run on two edges, or points, instead of on the entire running surface. A slight arch may be reckoned necessary to offset the weight of the body, but the utility of the ski, in nearly every instance, will be less affected by too little arch than by too great a curve at this point.

A good ski is told at a glance by its bend, which must never be abruptly formed, nor carried too high. A maximum curve of 6 in. is all that is ever required, and to prevent breaking at this, the weakest, part of the ski, the bend must be gradual like the curve of a good bow, thus making it more flexible and elastic at this point. As a rule, the ski should be fashioned a trifle broader at the bend than at any other point, and the wood should be pared moderately thin, which will make it strong and resilient with plenty of spring, or “backbone.”

The groove in the running surface is so formed as to make the ski steady and prevent “side slip” when running straightaway. In fact this groove may be compared to the keel of a boat, and as the latter may be made too deep, making it difficult to steer the craft and interfering with the turning, so will the badly formed groove interfere with the control of the ski. The Telemark round-faced groove is by far the best form, and for all-around use is commonly made ¹⁄₁₂ or ¹⁄₈ in. deep. Not all Telemark skis are thus fashioned, however, some being made without the groove, while others are provided with two, and I have seen one marked with three parallel hollows. The shallow groove is the most satisfactory for general use, and while a groove, ³⁄₈ or ¹⁄₂ in. deep, is good enough for straightaway running, it makes turning more difficult.

To attach the ski binding, which secures the shoe to the runner, a hole in the form of a narrow slit is made just back of the center. This is the usual manner of attaching the foot binding, and while it cannot but weaken the ski to a certain extent, it is the best method for making a secure foot fastening, and weakens the wood to a much less extent than the use of bolts, or other metal fastening.

So far as finish is concerned, most Norwegian makers finish their skis with a coat of black paint, while other makers stain the wood, and some finish the wood in the natural color by varnishing. This applies to the upper surface only, the running surface being rubbed down with linseed oil and made smooth with wax.