66. GENTLEMAN'S BRACES.
Materials—Black velvet or white satin ribbon of a very good quality, and five shades of crimson and three of green embroidery silk.
Line the ribbon with linen; draw the design, and work in embroidery-stitch, shading, as taste may direct,—the leaves with the greens, and the roses with crimson, using three shades for each rose, and working first only with the lightest shades, then with the darkest only.
67. TOILET-CUSHION. (EMBROIDERY.)
Materials—White or black satin; three shades of crimson, three shades of yellow, three shades of green, and two shades of olive green embroidery silk; one yard of crimson and one yard of green chenille will also be required.
Draw the pattern on the material, and work in embroidery-stitch one rose with the shades of crimson, and the second with the shades of yellow; the leaves with the shades of green, and the stems with olive; work a few stitches with the shades of the roses in the centre of the rose-buds, and work the corner designs with green and olive. In the arrangement of the colours, the taste and judgment of the worker must be exercised, as much depends upon the harmoniously blending of the various shades.
68. THE HELEN CAP. (NETTING.)
Materials—Scarlet floss silk, or five shades of scarlet Berlin wool; meshes Nos. 3 and 6; cornucopia gauge, and a flat mesh, an inch in width.
The cap is worked in honeycomb netting, and the borders and rosette in plain netting. With the darkest shade make a foundation of 56 stitches on mesh No. 3, net 2 rows with each shade, increasing a stitch at the end of each row; leave one-half of the cap plain, and net a border in the following manner on the remaining loops and at the ends:—With the darkest shade net 4 loops in every loop on the flat mesh, increasing by making 6 loops in each of the three corner stitches; then on mesh No. 3, net 1 loop in each, and finish by netting a row with the next shade on the smallest mesh: this must be repeated at each side of the cap. For the second border, net 100 loops on the flat mesh on a foundation of wool, and finish to correspond with the first border. Two pieces netted in this manner are required, and they are arranged in festoons at the sides of the cap. Pass a cord the size required through the foundation-stitches, join it, and sew on a rosette made in the following manner:—With the darkest shade net 100 loops on mesh No. 3; then with the next shade net 2 rows at each side and at the ends; make this into a rosette with long ends, as in illustration.
This elegant and becoming head-dress derives its name from the beautiful sister-in-law of the Emperor of Russia, the Grand Duchess Helen, who introduced this style of coiffure at St. Petersburg.
69. SCREEN. (INDIAN ORNAMENTAL WORK.)
Beautiful cabinets, work-boxes, work-tables, fire-screens, &c., may be painted in imitation of ebony inlaid with ivory by the following means:—Let your screen be made of an elegant form, but merely of common white wood or deal, prepared as below.
Composition for the Surface of Wood.—Steep one ounce of glue in a pint of cold water all night; throw off the water in the morning. Take six ounces of finest white lead in powder, mix it by degrees in a mortar, with about half a pint of cold water, till it is perfectly smooth, then place it, along with the glue, in a clean pan. Add half a pint more water; set it on the fire, stirring constantly till it boils. Let it boil three minutes; take it off, and pour it into a stone jar, and continue to stir it occasionally till cold. When cold, but before it congeals, take a clean paint-brush, and paint your screen with the composition. When it is quite dry, rub it over with sand-paper, to make it quite smooth; then give it another coat of the white composition, repeating the rubbing with sand-paper as before. Repeat this same process five or six times, until you obtain a smooth, equal, white surface. When that is accomplished, dissolve the fourth of an ounce of isinglass in a quarter of a pint of water; when cold, but liquid, give the screen a coat of it with a clean brush, and do not use the sand-paper after it.
To Ornament the Screen.—Lay a sheet of black tracing-paper on the screen, with the black side downwards; then place a pattern above it, with the right side uppermost; place a weight here and there, to prevent it slipping; then trace over the outline with a rather blunt stiletto. On removing the paper, you will find the outline of the pattern transferred to the surface of the screen. Trace over the outline, and shade, in lines, with a fine camel's-hair pencil dipped in Newman's lamp-black; fill in with the same.
Varnish.—Place four ounces of rectified spirit of wine in a wide-mouthed bottle; add one ounce of gum sandarac, a quarter of an ounce of gum mastic, and a drachm of camphor, all in powder. Put a stopper in the bottle, set it near a fire, and shake it occasionally. When all the gums are quite dissolved, add one ounce of oil of turpentine; then strain through muslin into another clean, dry wide-mouthed bottle. Let it stand a day or two before using.
Mode of Varnishing.—Take a large clean new varnish-brush, dip it into the bottle, and then cover over all your screen with it. When perfectly dry, give it another coat, and so on till it has had six coats; let it remain untouched for two days; rub it smooth with sand-paper; then give it two more coats of varnish, and repeat the rubbing, being careful to wait between each coat till the last is dry, and not to rub with sand-paper sooner than two days after varnishing, and never give more than two coats of varnish in a day—one in the morning, another at night. When you think it looks clear and sufficiently thick, give it another coat without using the sand-paper after it; let it stand four days; then rub it all over with pounded rottenstone, and wipe it off with a wet cloth; after which take a little Florence oil and hair-powder, and polish with your hand.
No. 67. TOILET CUSHION,
No. 68. THE HELEN CAP.
No. 69. SCREEN,
No. 70. HEARTSEASE
70. HEARTSEASE. (KNITTING.)
Materials—Split Berlin wool, and knitting-needles No. 20; cornucopia gauge.
Violet Petals.—Cast on three stitches with a bright shade of violet; knit and pearl in alternate rows, making a stitch at the beginning of every row, until you have fourteen or sixteen stitches; then knit and pearl six rows alternately, without increase, and continue in knitted and pearled rows, decreasing one stitch at the beginning of each row, till six or eight stitches alone remain; these cast off in the plain row, taking the two last as one before you turn the last stitch over. Two petals like these are required.
Large Yellow Petal.—Take a bright, though rather deep, shade of yellow wool, split; cast on three stitches, knit and pearl in alternate rows, increasing one stitch before and one after the middle stitch in the plain row, till you have fifteen or seventeen stitches; take a higher shade of yellow, and work six more alternate plain and pearled rows, still increasing in the middle, but decreasing one stitch at the beginning of every row; change your wool for a deep violet, and continue to knit in alternate plain and pearled rows, decreasing one stitch at the beginning of each row, till seven stitches only remain; these cast off, taking the two last as one.
Two smaller Petals.—Exactly like the large one, but increased only to thirteen stitches. Sew a fine wire round each petal with split wool, tie the five petals together with a bit of green.
Buds.—Take eight or ten lengths of split wool, yellow and violet, place across a piece of wire, fold the wire, twist the ends, turn down the ends of wool, tie them round the wire, leaving out the length required for the bud (about a quarter of an inch); cover the stem with green wool, split; also the stem of the heartsease.
Leaves.—Begin with a shade of green wool, split as for one of the yellow petals, but you have thirteen stitches; cast off three at the beginning of the two following rows, go on increasing again to thirteen; cast off three at each end, and make thus as many scallops as will look well—in general three or four on each side make a very good-sized leaf; after the last scallops, decrease one stitch at the beginning of every row, till the leaf comes to a point.
71. SERVIETTE FOR LIQUEUR-STAND. (CROCHET.)
Materials—Raworth's thread No. 30, and three shades of Manlove's pink crochet thread of corresponding size.
With the lightest shade make a chain of 9 stitches; join to form a round.
1st round. Double crochet, increasing in every stitch.—
2d round. 5 chain. 1 plain, miss 2; repeat.—
3d round. 5 chain, 1 plain, taking the centre stitch of chain of previous round; repeat.—
4th round. Double crochet, increasing in every fifth stitch.—
5th round. 7 chain, 1 plain, miss 3; repeat.—
6th round. Double crochet.—
7th round. 1 chain, 1 plain above the centre stitch of chain in 5th round; repeat.—
8th round (second shade of pink). 9 chain, 1 plain, worked in the plain of last round; repeat.—
9th round. Double crochet.—
10th round. 5 chain, 1 plain, miss 3; repeat.—
11th round. 4 chain, 1 plain, worked in the centre stitch of chain of last round; repeat.—
12th round. Double crochet, increasing in every ninth stitch. Now divide the work into three parts, commence with the darkest shade, and work as follows:—Fasten on the thread three stitches from the centre of one of these divisions; make a chain of 9 stitches, 1 plain, miss 6.—
2d row. Commence one stitch from the first stitch in last row, 1 chain, 1 long in every stitch; repeat, finishing by working a stitch in advance.—
3d row. Commence as in last row, 2 chain, 1 long, miss 1, and finish as before.—
4th row. Commence and finish as before, 1 long, 2 chain, miss 1; repeat.—
5th row. 3 chain, 1 long, miss 2; repeat, beginning and finishing as before.—
6th row. 1 long, 3 chain, miss 1; repeat, commencing and finishing as before. Now work the other two divisions in the same manner; after which work 1 long, 2 chain, miss 1, all round; then work a round in double crochet. This completes the centre.
For the Edge.—With white work 1 long, 2 chain, miss 1, all round.—
2d round. 7 chain, 1 plain, miss 3; repeat.—
3d round. 7 chain, 1 plain worked in the centre stitch of chain; repeat.—
4th round. 1 plain worked in the centre stitch of chain, 5 long worked in the following stitches: 1 plain, 7 chain, 1 plain in the centre stitch of chain, 7 chain; repeat.
No. 71. SERVIETTE FOR LIQUEUR STAND,
No. 72. RIBBON-WORK,
No. 73. LADY'S SILK MITTENS.
No. 74. COUVRETTE FOR DEVOTIONAL CHAIR
72. A NEW AND ELEGANT WORK FOR SOFA PILLOWS, ANTI-MACASSARS, CARD-BASKETS, &c.(RIBBON WORK)
We will describe how to make an anti-macassar:—
Take Penelope canvass, three quarters of a yard long, half a yard wide; a piece of crimson china ribbon; one piece of gold-colour, one of shaded lilac, and a rug-needle.
Prepare the canvass by cutting away every 2 alternate threads, and draw them out the whole length of the canvass; next cut away and draw them out with tweezers, every 2 alternate threads, the whole of the width of the canvass. Next thread the rug-needle with crimson ribbon, and sew over the first 2 threads of canvass the lengthway of the canvass; when at the end, pass the needle to the next 2 threads and sew them over, taking care to keep the ribbon flat as possible; when at the top, return and cover the next two threads with the same coloured ribbon. This will make 3 stripes. Proceed the same with the gold-colour, 3 stripes; then the lilac, 3 stripes; then recommence with the crimson, and continue the same until you have the whole length finished. Next commence to sew over the same from side to side, which will form a chequered pattern, and has a rich effect. Finish round with a ruche of satin ribbon or fringe, crimson colour. If desired, can be worked with slight silk.
73. LADY'S SILK MITTEN. (CROCHET.)
Materials—10 pieces of fine black crochet silk; 2 bundles of No. 6 steel beads; Penelope crochet No. 3.
Make a chain of 84 stitches; work 1 row in plain-stitch crochet.—
2d row. 2 edge-stitches, 1 bead-stitch, 1 plain to the end of row.—
3d row. Plain.—
4th row. Same as 2d row.—
5th, 6th, and 7th rows. Plain.—
8th row. 4 plain, 4 bead to the end of row.—
9th, 10th, and 11th rows. As 8th row.—
13th, 14th, and 15th rows. Plain.—
16th row. 1 plain-stitch, 1 bead-stitch to the end of row.—
17th row. Plain.
This completes the band for the arm, which must be worked on one side, detaching the silk at the end of each row. Work 4 rows in chain-stitch open crochet, making 7 loops in each chain, and missing 4 stitches in working the first row, join and work in rounds; work 2 rounds, then divide the mit in half, and leave a space for the thumb; the silk must be detached at the end of the row. Work to the centre of the back of hand, make 3 chain-stitches, pass down a bead in making the next 3 chain-stitches, crochet to the centre stitch of chain of last row; then work 3 stitches, passing down a bead at each stitch, then 3 chain-stitches; work to the end of row. Work 6 rows, increasing the number of bead-stitches by commencing at the preceding chain-stitch; then work 6 rows, decreasing as seen in illustration; the last 3 of these must be worked in rounds instead of rows; work 3 rounds in chain-stitches of 7 as before, then a round of chain-loops in each chain. Work one-half plain for the inner part of the hand, then 1 bead, 1 plain. Next round plain. Work 3 rows thus on the back of the hand; 3 bead-stitches, 3 plain stitches. Next round plain; then 1 bead-stitch, 1 plain as before, and finish with a plain round. Now work the thumb as follows:—Work a chain of 7, missing every third stitch; repeat three times, then work 5 rounds, decreasing in each round by passing the loop through the centre stitches of two of the chains; work 3 rounds without decreasing, and finish with 3 rounds of close double crochet, making every alternate stitch of the centre round a bead-stitch. Work a loop on the band, and fasten with a button.
74. COUVRETTE FOR DEVOTIONAL CHAIR. (NETTING.)
Materials—Raworth's thread No. 30, knitting-cotton No. 10, shaded amber Berlin wool, mesh No. 6.
Commence with a foundation of 100 loops, and net till the proper length is completed. Work the pattern in darning-stitch with cotton. Net a fringe with shaded wool, making two loops in every loop, using a flat mesh two inches broad.
No. 75 SACHET
No. 76. PEN-WIPER,
No. 77. PATTERN FOR FOOTSTOOL.
75. SACHET. (EMBROIDERY.)
Materials—A quarter of a yard of pale-blue satin, one yard and one-eighth of blue silk fringe, three shades of green, and two shades of olive-green embroidery silk, and a small bundle of pearl beads.
Draw the design upon the satin, and work in embroidery-stitch, the leaves with the shades of green, the stems with the shades of olive, and the grapes with the beads. Use such perfume as may be preferred, and trim round the edge with the fringe.
76. PEN-WIPER. (EMBROIDERY IN BRAID.)
Materials—Blue cachmere and gold-coloured braid.
Draw the pattern, and sew on the braid; edge with button-hole stitch.
77. PATTERN FOR FOOTSTOOL OR CUSHION. (BERLIN WORK.)
Materials—Canvass No. 40; scarlet, black, and white Berlin wool; fourth shade of blue, fourth ditto of green, fourth ditto of peach Berlin wool; amber floss silk, six skeins of each of the wools, and a similar quantity of silk will be required; also a piece of fine piping-cord, and emerald-green velvet ribbon.
Cut the canvass into strips 3 inches in width, and the length required; sew 14 lengths of cord upon the canvass, leaving 2 threads between each cord; the cord will cover a space of 2 threads. Leave a margin 18 threads from this, and with black work 6 stitches over the 7th and 8th cords opposite each other; with blue work 6 stitches on the same cords on the right side, and with green 6 on the left; with peach work 6 stitches on the 9th and 10th cords, above the stitches of black; and with scarlet 6 stitches on the 6th and 7th cords, underneath the black. There will now be 60 stitches worked. With white work 6 stitches on a line with each of the preceding stitches, and on the 2 cords above the stitches of peach and below the scarlet; with amber silk work 6 stitches in the same manner. This completes the first diamond. The pattern is repeated to the end of row. The spaces between the diamonds are worked as follows: With black work 6 stitches on a line with each stitch of amber; with peach work the stitches between the black on the 3d and 4th cords; on the right hand work 6 stitches with blue on the 1st and 2d cords, and on the left with green; work the centre stitches with silk. The opposite space is worked in a similar manner, substituting scarlet for peach. For a cushion it will be necessary to work 4 strips of this pattern; and, in making it up, a length of velvet ribbon of a similar width is placed between each division of work. Finish with green cord and tassels.
No 78. A MAT FOR A FLOWER-VASE.
Nos. 79, 80. LADY'S SLIPPER.
78. A MAT FOR A FLOWER-VASE. (CROCHET.)
Material—Raworth's crochet thread No. 40.
Centre Flower.—12 c s, unite, work into this ring 5 c s, 1 l s, * 2 c s, 1 l s; repeat from * eleven times, finish with 2 c s, s c into third stitch of first, 5 c s.—
2d round. D c into first space, * 5 c s, d c into next space; repeat from * into every space, finish with 5 c s, s c into first d c of the round.—
3d round. 5 d c round every loop of 5 c s in last round.
The eight Leaves round this Flower.—Commence on one of the stitches at the edge of this flower, 25 c s, s c back (this is for the stripe in the centre of leaf), * 5 c s, miss 3, d c into fourth; repeat from * five times, which brings it to top stitch of leaf, 6 c s, d c into same stitch, 5 c s, miss 3, d c into fourth six times down the other side of the stripe, draw out the loop on the needle a little, pass the thread under the leaf, 1 d c round the first loop, 5 c s, d c round the next loop, * 6 c s, d c round the next; repeat from * four times, which brings it to top loop, 7 c s into same top loop, 6 c s into five more loops down the other side, 5 c s, d c into last loop, pass the thread under the leaf, d c three times round the loop next to stripe, five times round next loop, six times round every loop up to the top, 2 d c, 5 l s, 2 d c round the top loop, 6 d c round every chain of six down the other side, 5 d c round chain of 5, 3 d c round the last loop at bottom of leaf next to the stripe; fasten off. Make another leaf in the same manner at the opposite side of the centre flower, and one at an equal distance between these two; another on the other side to correspond, which will make four leaves, then work four more leaves between these 4, and the eight leaves will be finished.
For the rounds of open work proceed thus: Commence on the point of one of the leaves, work 29 c s, d c into point of next leaf; repeat this all round, not making the c s too tight.—
2d round. D c into every stitch of this round.—
3d round. 1 l s, * 3 c s, miss 2, 1 l s into third stitch; repeat from *.—
4th round. D c into every stitch of last round.—
5th round. 1 l s, * 3 c s, miss 2, 1 l s into third stitch; repeat from *.—
6th round. D c into every stitch of last round.—
7th round. 1 l s, 2 c s, miss 2, 1 l s into third; repeat from * all round.—
8th round. D c into every stitch of last round. Work on the inside of the first round of 29 c s a ring, thus: commence on centre, c s between the leaves, 16 c s, unite on foundation-stitch, d c twenty-four times round this ring; repeat these rings between every two leaves, making eight in all.
The Leaves on the outside of the open Rounds.
— Commence on stitch opposite to the point of one of the large leaves. 18 c s, 1 l s into sixth stitch, * 2 c s, miss 2, 1 l s into third; repeat three times more from *. 1 s c into foundation-stitch, then 4 d c round first loop; 1 d c, 2 l s, 1 d c round next three loops, 1 d c, 4 l s, 1 d c round top loop; 1 d c, 2 l s, 1 d c round three loops on the other side of leaf; 4 d c round last loop. Make another leaf in the same manner, beginning at the same foundation-stitch. Fasten off. Then two more leaves exactly the same, opposite the points of all the large centre leaves. Then two more leaves opposite each of the d c rings inside the open rounds (which will be at an equal distance on each side from the others). There will now be thirty-two small leaves, two and two, the upper point of each leaf to be turned outwards, and to be tacked with needle and thread to the point of the next leaf, which it will meet easily. (Care must be taken to refer to the engraving for the manner in which the mat is to be finished, as it will greatly assist the explanations.)
For the small roses between the leaves, which are made separately: 9 c s, unite, 5 c s, 1 long stitch into ring, * 2 c s, 1 l s; repeat from * seven times. 2 c s, s c into third stitch of first 5 c s.
2d round. 1 s c round first space, 3 c s, 3 l s, into same space, * 5 c s, miss 1 space, 4 l s into next space; repeat from * all round. Finish with 5 c s, s c into third stitch of 3 c s. Fasten off sixteen roses for the round. Place one of these roses between every pair of the leaves which proceed from the same foundation, and sew it at the edge to the third scallop of the leaves; then commence between the points of the leaves which were sewn together, * 24 c s, d c into centre of edge of small rose, 24 c s, d c between the points of the leaves; repeat from * all round, then 26 d c stitches round every 24 chain.
Sprigs between the 24 C S.—18 c s, unite on twelfth. D c round this loop twenty-two times. S c up remaining c s for stalk. Fasten off, leaving an end to sew the sprig on the mat. Turn wrong side up. Commence on fifth stitch from stalk on the right-hand side of the flower, * 10 c s, unite in same stitch. Turn again. Into this circle work 18 d c stitches *. Turn wrong side up. S c up to top of ring formed by 18 c s; repeat from * to * for another ring. Turn wrong side. S c down to fifth stitch from stalk. Repeat another ring, when the work will be on the right side. Bring the cotton to the side of this last ring nearest to stalk. 13 c s, s c into top of last ring. 6 c s, s c into same stitch. 13 c s, s c into foundation close to the lower part of ring. 5 c s, s c into foundation-ring, close to centre ring, at the top. 13 c s, s c into top of ring; 6 c s, s c into same stitch; 13 c s, s c into foundation at bottom of ring; 5 c s, s c into foundation at lower part of next ring; 13 c s, s c into top of ring; 6 c s, s c into same stitch; 13 c s, s c into foundation at the other side of ring. Fasten off. Sixteen of these sprigs are required, and sixteen more small roses. Place one sprig between each of the chains of 24 d c, where they meet at the points of the leaves, and sew them by the thread which was left at the end of the stalk. Confine them to the 24 d c by the lower 13 c s. Place a small rose between each of these sprigs, fastening them together where they meet. The best way is, to cut out a circle in coloured paper, and (after the crochet work is completed) place the mat wrong side up upon it, and fasten the flowers to it and to each other, as it will then be quite flat and smooth.
79, 80. LADY'S SLIPPER. (EMBROIDERY IN BRAID.)
Materials—Black satin or velvet, gold braid, and gold beads
Pencil the design on tissue-paper, trace this over with ink, tack the pattern thus prepared on the right side of the satin or velvet. Sew the braid on by the pattern, and when completed tear away the paper. Sew on the beads with strong sewing-silk in the spaces indicated in the design.