Chapter First

Of the island of Çubu, and of the other islands under its jurisdiction.

Island of Çubu. The island of Çubu, the first to be settled by Miguel Lopez de Legazpi, has a circuit of nearly a hundred leagues and a length of about fifty leagues, for it is very narrow. At the two extremities it is, at the widest place, about twenty leagues wide. One extremity, the one lying toward the north, is called Burula. The other extremity, which we call Las Cabeças and the natives Sanbuan, lies at the south; for, as is inferred, this island runs nearly north and south. One cannot sail very close to the island; because all along the coast where the town of Çubu is situated are to be found bays that curve in different directions. On the other and western side of the island the land lies almost northeast and southwest. The entire island contains about three thousand five hundred Indians, living in different, and for the most part small, villages. Here I shall mention only the principal ones, for the others are small, numbering only from eight to ten houses.

Jaro. Jaro is under the charge of an encomendero who also holds an encomienda elsewhere; the village is inhabited by five hundred Indians.

Daraguete. Daraguete is also an encomienda, with two hundred Indians.

Peñol. El Peñol is also an encomienda, with two hundred Indians.

Jaro. Jaro is likewise an encomienda, with two hundred Indians.

Temanduc. Temanduque is also an encomienda, with five hundred Indians.

Temanduc. In the same province of Temanduque another encomendero has seventy Indians; and it is also an encomienda.

Barile. The village of Barile is another encomienda; it is inhabited by four hundred natives. It is also an encomienda.

Burugan. The village of Burugan has about seventy Indians. It is also an encomienda.

Candaya. The province of Candaya has three hundred and fifty Indians, belonging to two encomenderos. It is also an encomienda.

No Spaniards are to be found in any of the principal encomiendas, in all this province, although fourteen of them possess holdings therein. These Spaniards, because they were inhabitants of the town of Çubu, received each two or three small villages, together with service from the Indians, fowls, and other means of maintenance; for the principal encomiendas were distant from them thirty or forty leagues, more or less. On the other side of the above-mentioned native communities, at about two arquebus-shots from the Spanish town of Ssantisimo Nombre de Jesus (thus called because an image of the child Jesus, of the time of Magallanes, had been found there, and was held in great reverence by the Indians), is a village of the natives belonging to the royal crown, with about eight hundred Indians. The commander Miguel Lopez de Legazpi exempted this community from paying tribute; for they had always taken sides with the Spaniards, and had helped them to conquer some of the other islands.

Observations on the island of Çubu. In this village live thirty Spaniards, and as many encomenderos. Counting both citizens and soldiers, fifty or sixty Spaniards ordinarily reside there.

Alcalde-mayor in Çubu. The governors of these islands have always appointed an alcalde-mayor, at a salary of three hundred pesos taken from the fines forfeited to the royal treasury; and the royal treasury not being sufficient, the alcalde-mayor has not, as yet, appointed any deputy. There are six regidors, who, up to the present time, have been elected annually. The past governors appointed also an alguazil-mayor, whom they can remove and replace at their pleasure. There is no remuneration for this last office; and it is therefore given to an encomendero, who is generally one of the leading citizens. There are also two alcaldes-in-ordinary, and one notary for the cabildo and the public. If all these officials were not also encomenderos, they would be unable to support themselves; for the town possesses no commerce which comes within their reach. The town has the best port of these islands, and it was for this reason that Miguel Lopez de Legazpi founded a settlement there. It was he who founded the above-mentioned town, in the year of sixty-four. Perhaps the traffic with Maluco may prove of advantage to the town, for there is no other place in its vicinity with which any commerce could be carried on. Its neighborhood is poor, and all the vast district round about lacks gold mines or gold-placers, except in the island of Mindanao—and that but little—as will be described later. The island of Çubu produces a small quantity of rice, borona, and millet and little or no cotton; for the cloth which the natives use for their garments is made from a kind of banana. From this they make a sort of cloth resembling colored calico, which the natives call medriñaque. In these islands great value is set upon the land which can produce rice and cotton, because cotton and cloth find a good market in Nueva España. The condition of the people will be described when I shall speak of all the Pintados in general, for they all are very similar. All are provided with fowls, swine, a few goats, beans, and a kind of root resembling the potatoes of Sancto Domingo, called by the natives camotes. After rice, fish is the main article of maintenance in this and other islands, for it abounds in all of them, and is of excellent quality in this island of Çubu. Although deer have been found in all the islands discovered hereabout, there are none here; and if any should be brought hither from elsewhere they would immediately die.

Island of Matan. To the south of the settlement of Çubu, about two arquebus-shots from it, lies the island of Matan where Magallanes was killed; it forms the port of Çubu. The island is about four leagues in circumference, and half a league wide; it has a population of about three hundred Indians, scattered through four or five small villages, all of which are under the jurisdiction of the town of Çubu.

Island of Vohol. On the other side of the island of Matan, and farther south, about eight leagues from the settlement of Çubu, lies the island of Vohol, which is an encomienda with two thousand Indians. The natives of this island are closely related to the people of Cebu and are almost one and the same people. Those inhabiting the coast regions are mainly fishermen. They are excellent oarsmen; and, before the arrival of the Spaniards, they were accustomed to cruise about in their vessels on marauding expeditions. They are also traders. There was once a large town in this island [Bohol], which, shortly before the Spaniards came hither, was plundered by the people of Maluco, and the majority of its inhabitants were dispersed throughout the other islands, where they now dwell. The settlements inland among the mountains are small and poor, and are not yet wholly under subjection. In this island, as well as in the many nearby uninhabited islets—these latter abounding also in fish—there is great abundance of game, both deer and boars. The island is about forty leagues in circumference, and eight or ten leagues wide.

Island of Negros. West of the island of Çubu lies another island, called by the Spaniards Negros, because its mountain districts are inhabited by some blacks. The Indians have given it various names, such as Nayon, Mamaylan, and others, all taken from the names of villages in different parts of the island. It contains some six or seven thousand Indians; but the number of blacks has not been ascertained, because of their hostility. The side of the island facing Çubu is sparsely populated; for it has only one settlement worthy the name, which is situated on the river Tanay, and half of the Indians on that river are natives of Bohol. The southern side, facing the island of Panay and the town of Arevalo, is thickly settled; for it contains the rivers Ylo, Ynabagan, Bago, Carobcop, and Tecgaguan—all fertile districts, rich in foods, such as rice, swine, and fowls; and abounding in medriñaque, although there is no cotton. The coast facing Çubu lies about two and one-half leagues from that island, and on the side facing the island of Panay and the town of Arevalo there is a like distance; so that two straits are made with these islands of Zubu and Panay respectively. The side toward Çubu has three encomenderos; and that toward Panay and the town of Arevalo has eight. All other encomenderos hold encomiendas in other parts of the island. This island is about ninety leagues in circumference, and about twelve or thirteen leagues wide. None of its villages belong to his Majesty.

Island of Fuegos. Near the straits formed by Negros Island and that of Çubu, there is an island which we call the island of Fuegos. It has a circuit of ten leagues, and a population of nearly two hundred Indians, and is a part of an encomienda. This island produces a great quantity of wax.

Island of Camotes. East of the island of Çubu are two small islets, each about five leagues in circumference. They are called the islets of Camotes. The two are inhabited by about three hundred Indians, and are under the jurisdiction of the city of Çubu. The people are poor, although they possess some wax and a great quantity of fish. The villages are small, consisting of only seven or eight houses each. These islets are about three leagues from the island of Çubu, and seven from the city of that name.

Island of Baybay. About three leagues farther east lies the island of Baybay, or Leyte, as it is also called. It is a large and well-provisioned island, although the people dress in medriñaque. Leyte is thickly settled; it may have a population of fourteen or fifteen thousand Indians, ten thousand of whom pay tribute because that has been a people hard to conquer. There are twelve encomenderos; but his Majesty owns none of the Indians. This island is about eighty leagues in circumference, and fifteen or sixteen wide. Its principal settlements and rivers are Vaybay, Yodmuc, Leyte, Cavigava, Barugo, Maraguincay, Palos, Abuyo, Dulaque, Longos, Bito, Cabalian, Calamocan and Tugud. This island possesses neither mines nor gold-placers; the only cloth it produces is medriñaque, which, as I have said before, resembles calico, and is made from a kind of wild banana.

Island of Panaon. Between this island and that of Mindanao, which lies north and south, is the island of Panaon. It is about eight leagues in circumference, and three leagues wide. The population is poor, and numbers only about one hundred men, who belong to one encomendero.

Island of Siargao. Twelve leagues from the island of Panaon, and next to the island of Mindanao, is the island of Siargao, which is about fifteen leagues in circumference and six leagues wide. It may have about four hundred inhabitants, and its villages are built around rough and dangerous estuaries. There is only one encomendero. The people are poor because of their indolence; for although there are numerous small islets near this island, which contain many gold-placers, they do not work them. They give as a reason that, if the corsairs should discover that they were working these mines, they would come hither to take them captive; but even now, when no one can molest them, they do not work the mines, and hence we may infer that their poverty is mainly due to sloth.

Island of Maçagua. West of the island of Baybay is a small island called Maçagua, about which father Fray Andres de Urbaneta related so many wonders. It is four leagues in circumference and one league wide; it has about sixty inhabitants, as well as an encomendero. The people are poor and wretched, possessing nothing but salt and fish.

Island of Maripipe. At the other side, northeast from the island of Baybay, lies the island called Maripipe. It is a very mountainous island, and by reason of its great roughness it is barren. It is about seven leagues in circumference and two and one-half leagues wide. It has a population of about one hundred Indians.

Island of Limancaguayan. Nearer the strait and cape of Espiritu Santo, and about three leagues from Maripipe, is another island, called Limancaguayan. Like Maripipe it has a circumference of about seven leagues, and a population of one hundred. This island produces rice and medriñaque. These two islands belong to one encomendero, together with the island of Fuegos, which we mentioned above.

Island of Masbate. Farther to the north-northeast of this island of Leyte lies the island of Masbate, which is about thirty leagues in circumference, and six leagues wide. It has about five hundred Indians, who belong to one encomendero. It has also gold mines from which much gold was dug, for the natives of Camarines went thither to work them; but they have left the place on account of the Spaniards, and therefore the mines are not worked. The island of Leyte is considered the centre of all the islands mentioned above, because they all lie in its neighborhood.

Island of Bantayan. About two leagues north of the island of Çubu lies the island of Bantayan. It is about eight leagues in circumference and two leagues wide, and has a population of about one thousand Indians; this and the above-mentioned island of Vohol are under the charge of one encomendero. Its inhabitants are well-disposed. They have large fisheries, for there are many shoals near the island. There is also a pearl-fishery, although a very small one. The land produces millet and borona, but no rice, for all the island has poor soil notwithstanding that it is level. Some of the natives of this island cultivate land on the island of Çubu, which, as I have said, is two leagues away. The island abounds in excellent palm-trees—a growth common to all the Pintados islands, for all of them abound in palms.

Island of Capul. Capul is the name of the island forming a strait with the island of Luçon. Through this strait pass all the ships which come from España. Capul is about twelve leagues in circumference and four leagues wide. It has about five hundred Indians, and belongs to one encomendero. Its inhabitants are poor and have rice and medriñaque.

Island of Viri. Still nearer the cape of Espiritu Santo, and in the strait itself, lies the island of Viri. It is about five leagues in circumference and two leagues wide. It has a population of about one hundred. This island and that of Maçagua are under one encomendero.

Island of Ybabao. Southeast of the island of Baybay, lies the island of Ybabao, or as it is also called, the island of Candaya [also Tandaya]. It is about one hundred and ten leagues in circumference. No one has yet gone through the land, and therefore its width is not known. They say that its population is as large as that of the island of Baybay, and that it is a fertile and well-provisioned island. The people seen by the Spaniards will number about five thousand Indians, who are scattered through the following villages:

Islands of Bantac. Close to the island of Ybabao, on its eastern side and in the gulf of Nueva España [i.e., Pacific Ocean], are to be found two islands, called Bantac. They are thinly populated, and according to what the Indians say, no one has yet set foot on them.

Verde Island. On this same side, opposite the town of Guiguan on the gulf side, lies Verde Island. It is about eight leagues in circumference, and four leagues wide. It contains about one hundred and fifty Indians.

Island of Canaguan. On the western side, opposite the river of Tinahon, lies the island of Canaguan, which is about four leagues in circumference and one league wide. It contains about one hundred men.

Island of Caguayan. The island of Caguayan lies very close to the western side of the island of Ybabao, and is three leaguo in circumference and one league wide. Its population numbers two hundred men.

Island of Batac. The island of Batac, which is near this place, contains one hundred men. All these islands which have been mentioned are under the charge of the encomenderos of Çubu, and under the jurisdiction of the city by the same name; so that, counting each island by itself, and that part of the island of Mindanao which has been explored, the jurisdiction of the city of Çubu extends over a circuit of six hundred and sixty-seven leagues.

Island of Mindanao. Of all the islands discovered up to the present time, Mindanao is supposed to be the largest, although but few of its inhabitants are friendly—almost none, in fact—and those dwell along the coast. The Spaniards have explored only about one hundred and fifty leagues of this island, namely, from the river of Catel to the principal river, which is called Mindanao. From the city of Çubu one has to sail southeast to reach the nearest point of Mindanao, which is called Dapitan. Dapitan has a port, and lies in the middle of the discovered section of the island. Once this section was thickly populated, but now there are only a few inhabitants left. It produces rice and gold, for there are gold-placers and mines all over the island; but the gold is found in so small a quantity that it can hardly be detected. From Dapitan to the point of Cinnamon there are more than thirty rivers whose banks are settled.

Observations on the Island of Mindanao. But those who live along the shore are very few, and are called Lutaos—a name applied to a tribe of people in this land, whose only means of sustenance is derived from fishing; and who take their wives, dogs, cats, and all their possessions in their boats. The fish that they catch they trade with the people of the mountains.

Tree-dwellings of the mountaineers of Mindanao. The mountaineers of this island build their houses in certain trees, so large that in each one a house is built which can contain forty or fifty married men and their families; the tree serves as a fortress against the enemy. As far as seen this region abounds in wax. The land is very rough and mountainous, and the inhabitants dress in mediñaque cloth.

Forty leagues from Dapitan, on the side facing Maluco, is Cavite Point, where there is abundance of cinnamon; this is the district which extends toward Maluco.

Island of Taguima. Not far from this Cinnamon Point, lies the island of Taguima, which is about fourteen leagues in circumference, and four leagues wide. It has a population of about five hundred Indians, with two encomenderos. In all parts of Mindanao are found a great many civet-cats. The Portuguese ships, on their way from Malaca to Maluco for cloves, pass by this island, and formerly did much harm to the natives, often committing acts of treachery while making that passage. Civet-cats are found in all parts of the island of Mindanao; but the people are poorly supplied with food and clothing.

Island of Soloc. Twenty leagues from this Cinnamon Point lies the island of Soloc. Its inhabitants are Moros from Burney. It was discovered at the same time as was the river of Burney. The island is about twenty-four leagues in circumference, and is said to have somewhat more than one thousand inhabitants. It is said to have elephants and a fine pearl-fishery. It belongs to one of the encomenderos of Çubu, and is within the jurisdiction of that city.

Island of Mindanao, continued. All the region northeast of Dapitan, as far as the river of Butuan, is under one encomendero, except the villages of Gonpot and Cagayan. These two villages, on account of their production of cinnamon, are under his Majesty, although their population is small, not exceeding two hundred men. The same encomendero has charge also of the district between Dapitan and almost to the Cinnamon Point, so that his encomienda in this island of Mindanao is of nearly sixty leagues’ extent; he is also encomendero of the above-mentioned island of Soloc, and holds another encomienda in the island of Çubu. With all this, he is poor [and dying of hunger: crossed out in original MS.], and cannot help laying hands on all the discovered land of Mindanao

Rivers: Paniguian, Ydac, Matanda, Ytanda, Tago, Ono, Beslin—all of which have about three thousand men, for the most part hostile. Around the river Butuan, which belongs to Guido de la Veçaris, dwell about six hundred Indians who are in this island. Farther on are to be found the rivers Surigao, Parasao and others, all poor regions notwithstanding their gold-placers. The same may be said of the rivers Paniguian, Ydac, Matanda, Ytanda, Tago, Ono, and Beslin—all of which have a population of about three thousand, mostly hostile.

Two attempts have been made to explore the chief river of Mindanao—the most important of the island, and from which the island of Mindanao derives its name—but with little result, for our people have been able to discover only six or seven villages. Of these villages the principal one is where the petty king lives; others are Tanpacan, Boayen, and Valet, with others, which, according to what has been seen, have a population of a little more than three thousand, although it is reported that there are many more than that number.

Island of Camaniguin. Opposite Butuan River, in the direction of Çubu, and between Vohol and the island of Mindanao, lies the island of Camaniguin. It is about ten leagues in circumference, and has a population of about one hundred Indians. This island is two leagues from Mindanao. It is a craggy and mountainous island. It produces some wax, and la gente della por la mayor parte anda sienpre muy city of Çubu.