Royal Festivities at Manila
On the fourth day of January, one thousand six hundred and twenty-three, other royal festivities occurred,[1] in which twelve bulls were fought; and four matches of cañas were played, each of them between two gentlemen, in accordance with the inclination of the country. The wealth, embroideries, holiday attire, liveries, and ornaments, were so abundant, so sightly, and of so great price and splendor, of so many floral decorations and of so many different shades, that they surpassed those of our España in beauty and splendor.
The square was adorned with rich hangings of great value and price, of gold, silk, and variegated cloths, so that one cannot describe so great a variety of colors, the curious adornments in the windows, the great beauty of the women, the richness of their ornaments and clothing, and the concourse of so many conspicuous people; for all the assembly appeared to be a priceless cluster of jewels, and everything by itself a precious gem set in the cluster. And as the country contains so many and so beautiful women—who have, as a rule, faces so angelic—and since the festivities were of so great splendor, and for so great a personage, the like of which were never seen, they eclipsed everything else, and the whole scene formed a sight of beauty and an agreeable garden. About three o’clock in the afternoon, a trumpet began to sound, immediately after which appeared a number of horsemen on fine horses caparisoned and equipped with many beautiful trappings, liveries, and wealth of bands, necklaces, plumes, jewels, and ornaments of gold, precious gems, enamel, and things of great rarity. The ministers of justice followed, and the mace-bearers of the city, besides the magistrates and alcaldes-in-ordinary, who were then Doctor Juan Fernández de Ledo—a personage worthy of attaining to great heights because of his great modesty, learning, and capacity—and Captain Miguel de Arnalto, an influential citizen, and a man of great virtue. Shortly behind them came the governor’s guard, the royal Audiencia, and a number of pages and servants in beautiful and elegant livery. After they had gone the round of the square, the royal Audiencia went to its place, which was located very near the city hall in which are the halls of the regidors and alcaldes, where there are very rich and beautiful balconies.
Each one having taken his seat, two companies of Spanish infantry came in through the square, and formed a guard, one company on one side, and the other on the other side. The arquebusiers and musketeers, firing many shots, discharged their pieces many times against one another in a sham battle that was made, one troop from one company charging on one troop of the other, and the other company doing the same. And as this city is a Salamanca[2] in arms, the soldiers are very skilful and well-disciplined. As the master-of-camp, Don Gerónimo de Silva, holds the soldiers under so good discipline, the militia in these regions is very efficient. When troops have become habituated to work and application, they give great delight; and when the officers are firm, and represent splendor and gravity, they hold their subordinates well in restraint and submissive—in which Scipio Africanus, Don Alonso, first king of Naples, and the Great Captain,[3] were marvels. After having spent a little more than half an hour in the military exercise—which caused great pleasure to the spectators, and aroused a furious courage in the ministers of Mars—the soldiers began again to march, some on one side and some on another, passing before the governor and the Audiencia; while the alférezes lowered their banners in salute to their captain-general, and the captains made a profound bow and courtesy, which with the many gala dresses, scarfs, and plumes, made many foolish persons desirous of imitating them.
After the infantry had left the square, those delegated from it—namely, General Don Fernando de Ayala, Captain Don Luis Enriquez de Guzmán, alcalde-in-ordinary, Captain Martín de Esquivel, chief court constable, and Captain José de Naveda, royal alférez—went out to make preparations for the cañas match. They were very fine gallants, and had considerable gala livery. Don Fernando de Ayala bestrode a bay horse, with gilded stirrups, bit, buckles, and all the trappings of the same; he wore black hose of Milan buckram, white boots, amber-colored doublet, and jacket of the same cloth as the hose. For a shoulder-sash he wore a heavy chain of gold; and he had a golden plume of great value, and a heavy tuft of heron feathers, also a gilded sword-hilt, and spurs of the same. Captain Don Luis Enriquez bestrode a black Cuatreño horse, with a saddle embroidered with gold and silver edging, a tuft of black and gray feathers, long and very costly hose lined with Milan cloth, jacket of the same, an embroidered doublet, of the workmanship of the hose, black boots, with a chain for a shoulder-sash; a hatband set with rubies, and a plume of great value, consisting of many heron feathers; sword and dagger with gilded furnishings, and sword-belt and waistband embroidered and edged with gold. Captain Martín de Esquivel bestrode a chestnut roadster and was adorned with a plume of many heron feathers, long black hose, black boots, a doublet corresponding to the hose, and a cloth jacket; a gold chain and gilded sword-hilt and dagger and spurs of the same. Captain José Naveda was carried by a bay horse, with black tail and mane well combed and long; an embroidered saddle, stirrups, bit, and spurs, gilded and silvered, very beautiful and of great value; a crest of unusually elegant feathers, the one that he carried on Banner day;[4] white boots, red shoulder-sash, long hose of red buckram, jacket embroidered with cloth of gold, an amber-colored doublet with rich gold buttons, a gold sword and dagger of great value; and still more precious were the diamond band and the plume of his hat. All came riding with their gilded staffs, and were followed by many servants and pages, clad in costly and gay livery. They commenced, some on one side, and some on another, to clear the square of the crowd that had gathered to see these royal festivities, and who filled all parts of the square.
Some gentlemen went into the square with their rejons.[5] About four in the afternoon, a wild and active bull was turned loose. In two or three light bounds, it made the round of the square, making itself master of it all, with which it made all the people afraid. There several lance-thrusts were given it by the people on foot and those mounted, until, the bull having been overcome, they opened the gate of the square, and delivered it to the secular arm of the infantry, who in quick order gave a good account of it, as was desirable. After three or four bulls had been run, about half past four, the gentlemen who were to engage in the cañas[6] matches thought that it was high time to begin them. Accordingly, they went to dress for their entrance, which was made in the following order: One clarion-player went ahead, being followed after a short interval by trumpeters, minstrels, and drummers, all mounted, and clad in livery of different colors. Behind them were two mules, laden with bundles of lances for the cañas; one mule bore a covering with the arms of Governor Don Alonso Fajardo, and the other a covering with the arms of the master-of-camp, Don Gerónimo de Silva—both coverings being of velvet, and the arms of each person being embroidered on them in gold and silver. They were accompanied by lackeys clad in livery, while others led the horses by the bridle. Then followed thirty-two horses with sixteen gentlemen, besides those who led them in. They formed two files, and came from two opposite positions. The saddlebows of the horses were hung on the outside with the shields of their owners, with enigmas and devices painted on them, and covered with scarfs and tassels. The horses had their breast-leathers covered with hawk’s-bells, and all had rich, rare, and costly harnesses and headstalls of gold and silver covered with precious stones, plumes, and sashes, in the utmost profusion.
They entered by a gate of the square and, after making a turn about it, they went out again. When the horses had left, the gentlemen came in on the run two by two, forming eight couples, with their liveries, and lances in hand. Brandishing the latter in their hands, it looked as if the butt ends of the lances of some of the gentlemen were joined with the points [of others]. The horses, spurred on by cries and wounded by the sharp spurs, seemed to fly.
Governor Don Alonso Fajardo made his appearance, in the place assigned to the city, taking as his companion Captain Don Juan Claudio de Verástegui. They were clad in robes of tawny-colored satin embroidered with gold and silver edging. For his cipher the governor had an “S” crowned with palms at the sides, and with scrolls at the foot. On his shield was a blue band, and on that a heart that two hands were opening, with a device as follows: “Well broken, but ill requited.” His cap was embroidered, and bore in cipher an “S” of pearls, rubies, and diamonds, so beautiful, costly, and elegant, that it attracted the eyes of the people, as a thing beyond all price; while above his cap was a great tuft of rich feathers, blue, tawny, white, and straw-colored. He was mounted on a grayish horse, of noble bearing, that had a band of very fine cloth covered with pearls and silver embroidery, an embroidered saddle, and gilded stirrups and bit. The furnishings of his sword and dagger were of wrought gold, and formed ornaments of considerable value. His companion had a band of tawny-colored taffeta on his shield, with an “M” as cipher.
Then followed General Don Luis Fajardo, the governor’s brother, an energetic youth, whose judgment and talent at a so tender age promise great hopes; and he was very splendidly dressed. His companion was Captain Don Juan Alonso de Sosa, regidor of this city, well known for his worth and good qualities. Their livery was of blue satin and gold, embroidered in outline through its field, and many flowers; as cipher they had a “J” while there was a blue band on the shield with letters of gold, that read: “For my king;” and on the streamer of the lance others that read, “Philipus,” which was surmounted by a golden crown. Their caps and flying ornaments were very beautiful, and had many feathers and silver embroidery. They were followed by many servants clad in the same livery.
Behind them went Captain Pedro de Chaves, regidor of Manila, son of the master-of-camp, Pedro de Chaves; and as his companion, Alférez Don Mateo de Avila, now captain of infantry. Their livery consisted of straw-colored satin embroidered in rose color, with ornaments of silver. On their shields were bands of rose colored taffeta, bearing in cipher the name of “Isabel,” in silver. On the streamers of the lances were the respective ciphers “Isabel” and “Maria,” in letters of gold. They bore ornaments of gilded swords and daggers, and great tufts of feathers. The bands of the horses were of taffeta gilded and embroidered in gold. Their boots were silvered, their caps embroidered, and they had many more ornaments. Behind them were Sargento-mayor Pedro de Cuenca Montalvo and his companion Don Diego Maldonado, clad in livery of blue and yellow satin, embroidered in orange color, with many fringes of gold and silver, and as a cipher an “A” surmounted by a golden crown. On the shield was a yellow band, that read in letters of gold: “Steadfast unto death.” On the streamers of the lances were these words: “I will be steadfast,” and some very green palms.
Captains Diego Lorenzo de Trezo and Luis Alonso de Roa followed in blue livery, which was adorned with many fleurs-de-lis made of silver, edged with wavy lines, and very bright and beautiful. On the shield was a blue band with silver letters that read, “Long live King Philipe Fourth,” and on the streamers of the lances was the word, in silver letters, “Philipus.” Behind them entered Admiral Don Pedro de Zárate, a prudent youth, and one of great good sense. His companion was Captain Juan Rodriguez del Castillo. Their livery was green, embroidered with gold and silver, and on the shields were tawny-colored bands. On one part of the shield of Captain Juan Rodriguez del Castillo was a tower, and on another a castle, with a chain that encircled both; on one part of the streamers of the lances were the royal arms, and on the other those of the city.
They were followed by Captain Mateo de Heredia, ex-factor of the royal treasury, and Captain Silvestre de Aybar, regidor of this city, both worthy of being promoted to higher places by their talent and ability. They wore livery of violet velvet embroidered with many knots of gold and silver, with figures and designs in black and gray, orange, and green, which made an agreeable and very beautiful sight, because of the fine livery and its brilliancy. Their shields had green bands with silver letters that read: “My hopes are the highest.” On the streamers of the lances, in illuminated golden letters, was the cipher of the name of “Dorotea.” Their caps and the bands of the horses, their boots, and the other ornaments and liveries of the servants were beautiful, and so costly that their value cannot be reckoned.
Lastly went the master-of-camp, Don Gerónimo de Silva, so gallant a trooper and so great a gentleman that with reason one may award him the laurel, both for valor and gallantry, and for his wealth and courage, as will yet be made known. The robe that he wore was of yellow satin embroidered in black with palm-trees, with clusters of fruit on them. His shield had a field of solid silver plates edged with gold. His lance was of ebony, and twenty palmos long; and instead of an iron head, a colic-stone,[7] so splendid to the sight and so well made that, however beautiful may be that of a painter, it cannot equal it. It was enclosed in a case of solid gold, a thing of inestimable value for its efficacy and its so brilliant beauty. On the banner was a palm-tree crowned, tassels, a red ribbon with large silver letters that read: “Alas for the delay, if it liveth in thee; but how well lives the faith that thou placedst in me.” He wore a cap embroidered with diamonds, rubies, and large pearls, which formed a knot and ornament with a great quantity of seedpearls interwoven with some feathers, and an especially beautiful plume which gleamed among all. He had sword and dagger with furnishings of solid gold. His sword-belt was embroidered with gold of Milán; and his stirrups and spurs, buckles, and all the bolts of the bit and saddlebows were of solid gold. He bestrode a grayish horse, a fine goer, of magnificent spirit and body. He had an embroidered saddle of great value. The band on the horse was set with many pearls and rich embroidery; so that the value of the wealth that he bore was, in the judgment of experienced persons, estimated at nine or ten thousand pesos. In front were lackeys, while behind were his pages, all clad in very showy livery of yellow and black. All had feathers that beautified and glorified the festival. Not of less value and price were the jewels and ornaments of the governor estimated, because of the many diamonds, rubies, topazes, pearls, and other precious gems that he wore; and one could not estimate the value of those of the other gentlemen who engaged in the canas matches.
The charge of this pertained to the master-of-camp, who took as his companion Captain Don Juan Ezquerra, son of General Juan Ezquerra, a prudent and well-inclined gentleman. The latter went out clad in the same livery and habit, and was very splendid and showy.
Some erudite person will say what Apelles said to a painter who had painted the picture of Queen Elena richly decked in finery, jewels, gold, and precious stones: “Since thou didst not know how to paint her beautiful, thou didst paint her rich.” But I adhere to and declare the truth, and I even curtail in this relation what I might say of it. Although I confess that this relation has not been designedly embellished, it is written rich in truth (which is the greatest beauty and splendor that can be given a history), with which its defects will be supplied, since there is nothing in this life that can be said not to possess some defect.
The gentlemen who were to take part in the play made their entrance in the above manner with great dexterity. They paraded through both sides of the square, couple by couple, in excellent order.
After the entrance, they changed horses; the places were assigned in divisions of fours, and they took their spears. They engaged in a well-concerted play, one division against another, two and two. From that post went out another division against the one that was advancing. It lasted more than an hour, with great gallantry, without any misfortune or disaster happening, until from the plaza the deputies entered their midst and separated them. At that juncture a fiery bull was let out. The gentlemen made very skilful movements against this bull with their rejons, and against others that were run, until the sun’s light retired to illuminate the antipodes; and the gentlemen and ladies left the square, and the balconies and galleries [miradors], to return to reoccupy them on another occasion one week thereafter, when the same cañas matches were played, and bulls were run for four days in succession.[8] At this second cañas match, Don Fernando Galindo, a gentleman of Ecija, and at present infantry captain in this camp, entered instead of Don Diego Maldonado. On this occasion, the governor had another livery of blue cloth and silver, entirely covered with ornaments. The entrance was made as on the first day, and the play was in the same manner—thereby causing general rejoicing because the game had been so skilfully played, and has been so few times seen in this city.
[1] These festivities celebrated the accession to the throne of Felipe IV. Although they occurred in 1623, this account is placed here because written August 1, 1625.
[2] A reference to the celebrated university of Salamanca, and used synonymously with learning or skill.
[3] El Gran Capitan: an epithet applied to Gonsalvo de Cordova, commander-in-chief of the Spanish forces under Ferdinand of Castile, in recognition of his services in 1495–96 against the French armies in Calabria, Italy—defeating them there and elsewhere, and compelling them to withdraw from Italy. A treaty of peace between France and Spain was the result; it was signed at Marcoussis in August, 1498. The Neapolitan kingdom was divided between France and Spain in November, 1500; but quarrels soon arose between them, and their armies fought for its possession. Under the leadership of Cordova, Naples was conquered for Spain (1502–04). Cordova was born in 1453, and died in December, 1515.
[4] Evidently an allusion to the procession made at Manila, on certain occasions, in which the banner of the city was carried before the cabildo—to which allusions have been already made in various documents of this series.
[5] A kind of lance or spear, used by bull-fighters.
[6] The game of cañas was an equestrian sport engaged in by the nobility on the occasion of any special celebration. They formed various figures, which engaged in various contests. One side charged against the other, hurling their spears, from which their opponents guarded themselves with their shields.
[7] In olden times, empirical healers or physicians cured with this stone the pain or sickness called colic—hijada, as it was then written, now ijada.—Rev. Eduardo Navarro, O.S.A.
Piedra de mal de hijada: from the description, apparently made of some brilliant crystalline substance.
[8] In the Jesuit relation of 1619–20 (see Vol. XIX, p. 61), mention is made of a bull-fight in terms that would indicate that they had already become established in the islands. This fight of 1619 is evidently the one to which W. E. Retana refers in his Fiestas de toros en Filipinas (Madrid, 1896). Huerta (Estado, p. 17), incorrectly states that the first bull-fight in the islands was on February 4, 1630. But Chirino mentions these spectacles (Vol. XII of this series, p. 182) as customary in both Manila and Cebú at least as early as 1602, which was the year in which he left the islands.