The Philippine Islands, 1493-1898, Volume 37, 1669-1676 / Explorations by early navigators, descriptions of the islands and their peoples, their history and records of the Catholic missions, as related in contemporaneous books and manuscripts, showing the political, economic, commercial and religious conditions of those islands from their earliest relations with European nations to the close of the nineteenth century

by Unknown

SIXTH TREATISE ON THE VOYAGES AND NAVIGATIONS MADE BY THE AUTHOR OF THIS BOOK

[Chapter i relates the voyage from Spain to Nueva España, in 1646, the ocean trip to Vera Cruz lasting sixty days. Thence journeying toward Mexico City (chapter ii), they reached the Dominican hospice of San Jacinto de Tacuba, outside the city walls. The last land journey, the one to Acapulco, was undertaken November 3, 1647. In chapter iii Navarrete gives a description of Acapulco. Its houses are all low, “the best ones built of mud, and all thatched with straw. Notwithstanding, for ours they demanded from us four hundred eight-real pieces. This seems incredible; but for me, who paid the money, it is more than certain.” “The port is the best and safest in the world, as was daily asserted by those persons who had seen many other ports. Of all that I have seen, and those have not been few, there is not one that can equal it. The fort is excellent, and has a battery of twelve first-class pieces [apostolado], so that it is impossible for any ship to enter the port without being sent to the bottom. The climate is infernal, in accordance with the name that it bears.”[2] After much delay a patache was finally secured which was going to carry the usual supplies to the Philippines, the religious (thirty in number) embarking April 8, 1648. The usual discomforts of the voyage were experienced, but the patache at last anchored at Lampon.]

At midnight the vendaval blew violently, and, as it came from the land, our anchors dragged, and we were driven out to sea. One would believe that a special providence of God sent that wind in order to prevent the enemy from entering and seizing everything. Next day the money was made safe, as were also the goods of his Majesty and those of private persons; and an attempt was made to hide the patache back of an islet so that the enemy could not discover it, even though they might enter the same port. We [religious] set out for Manila, and along the way heard of the singular joy caused by our unexpected arrival, which had been hoped for or imagined by no one. That great joy was somewhat tempered because the enemy quite accidentally discovered the patache, and hastened against it with men and arms. Our men being poorly prepared, and not in harmony, and the commander being but a sorry soldier, they burned the patache before they ought to have done so; and in one half hour his Majesty lost 36,000 pesos, and those in the patache some credit and reputation.

[8]. We continued on our way for four days, on foot—not by the road, for there is none, but over inaccessible high rocks, crags, and passes. We crossed several rivers by swimming, and forded others with the water up to our breasts. In the mountains (which are very high, and covered thickly with trees) we found so many leeches that we could find no relief or means by which to free ourselves from them, and there was no one who did not lose blood from his body. I affirm with all truth that I saw one which was burrowing, head first, half-way through my shoe, and I cried out to some persons to look at that prodigy; and in fact they did look at it in surprise at such a thing. The rain fell in great streams from the sky. At the coming of night, we halted where it overtook us. The Indians covered over some rude huts with palm leaves, and there we slept upon the grass and the ground soaked with water. On the last day we descended a hill two leguas in length, although some said it was longer. Although it took us three days to ascend that ridge, we descended it in one. It was very rough in parts, and the rain came down steadily, so that we slipped at every step without being able to do anything else. I assert that I saw some of my associates who sat down and allowed themselves to be carried, not a small distance, by the currents of the water. And yet they were so joyful and happy that one cannot easily imagine their delight.

9. We reached Apanguiel (where there is a very fine convent of our father St. Francis) so wet, dirty, tired, and hungry, that all the welcome that was shown us there was needed in order that we might remain men visible to human eyes. The reception accorded us was, I presume, in accordance with the charity of those servants of God. Next day two fathers came thither from Manila, and we had thereupon another consolation. Another, the father guardian Fray Lucas de N. took four of us to his convent. He had a very fine church, and a good enough house, while the site was the best and pleasantest that could be thought of or imagined. It is located on a height, and the whole lake of Bay (which is thirty leguas in circumference) and some islands in its midst, could be seen from a balcony. Land and mountains could be seen on all sides, with thickets, palm-groves, banana-groves, rivers, and creeks, which was wonderfully pleasing to the sight. After that we visited other convents; and all that we saw was novel and wonderful to us. We departed for Manila in two boats, and, crossing the bay, spent the night at Binangoa, where the father guardian, Fray Francisco N. gave us a fine welcome. Next night, we continued our voyage to the entrance of the lake, where ten boats from Manila were awaiting us, which were manned by Chinese, mestizos, and Indians. We said mass, and, having embarked, descended the river to the festal accompaniment of fire-crackers, small gongs, and arquebuses. The gongs of the Chinese were very amusing to us; for, though they were no larger than a barber’s basin, they made as much sound as a large bell. It is a wonderful instrument. The river is one of the most beautiful in the world. That of Goa is wider and deeper, but the former is more adorned with palaces, gardens, villages, and churches. We entered some palaces which would be a wonder to any European. We reached the bridge of Manila, which is a famous work. We saw it filled with people of various nationalities. We entered our convent amid the pealing of bells, and there we immediately visited the most sacred and miraculous image of our Lady of the Rosary, the consolation of all that community, and of all those islands also, in all extremities and necessities. Its sight alone cheered our souls, and made us forget all our past hardships. The father provincial conceded to us, as a great treat and privilege, one week of matins. The fathers of other missions say that only three days had been set aside for them, so that the time given to us seemed very liberal. In truth, some assisted in the choir that same night; but my spirit was not so fervent that it ventured to so much.