FOOTNOTES:
[4] This hook or beak on the lower jaw of male salmon is a provision of nature to enable them to rake those furrows in the gravel wherein the female deposits her ova. It has been known to pierce entirely through the upper jaw, causing the ultimate death of the fish.—Ed.
[5] The foul-hooked salmon, too, has far more leverage.—Ed.
[6] Rods of split cane are very largely used, and as they are light and strong have much to recommend them.—Ed.
[TROUT AND OTHER FLY FISHING.]
This subject far from being treated exhaustively, or even with any attempt at fulness, will, on the contrary, only be written of, so as to give a few hints to those who love to wield the rod. Bottom fishing, with the paraphernalia necessary to that branch of the sport, has objections at least from a woman's point of view, but to fishing with the fly there is no drawback, unless indeed you happen to be one of those who hold that you should never pit your skill against one of the lower animals in a struggle for life. Of all sports indeed there is none more entirely suited to the powers of woman than fly-fishing. The nicety, the quickness, the light-handedness, and care as to details, and I think I may add thoroughness in any pursuit they really take to, in which women generally excel are all points in her favour the moment she takes a rod in hand. Great strength is not needed, unless indeed she choose to go after one of the leviathans of the deep, but only constant and exhaustless patience. Yet it is the mention of the last that will make many who know only of the sport by hearsay, look scornful and say they see no fun in standing watching and waiting for the bite that often never comes, and that they prefer something more active. As it is no use arguing with people who are persuaded they view the subject from a vastly superior standpoint, the only answer to this is, "If you do not change your opinion after a week's—or even a day's—experience—well, fly-fishing is not for you."
What I am anxious to impress upon all is, that fly-fishing is not necessarily an expensive sport. For the best of salmon-fishing and the right to try for trout in their choicest waters you must indeed pay, but for the right to fish for their less thought of brethren there need be but small demands on your purse.
My own experience one summer may be of some use to those who would fain do likewise. My lot was cast in a part of Sussex where under the Downs flowed a tiny but most beautiful little river. "No trout," had been the answer given when I enquired as to the prospect of sport from its banks, so sadly I made up my mind that beyond an occasional visit to a trout stream, owned by some friends in the same county, my rod would be idle that summer.
"If only it was stocked with trout," was my frequent reflection as I wandered along its banks and noted the swift flowing current and the tempting stickles that looked a perfect paradise from a trouting point of view. One evening as I stood watching the clear waters as they rushed round and over some opposing rocks into a large pool, I caught sight of a silvery, most graceful fish dart through the water at the side of the eddy. Then when my eye became accustomed to the curious light, as the rays of the setting sun fell slantways over the pool, through the branches of a mighty oak tree that rose from the banks, I saw another, and another. "Dace," was my verdict, and forthwith dismissed them from my mind. But I had not reached home before the thought of trying for those dace with fly came to me, and the next day, trout rod in hand, and with a Black Palmer and Alder on the cast, I made my first venture in what was to me quite a new branch of sport.
Method of fastening Dropper to Cast.
As the line flew out for the second time and the flies fell gently and lightly on the water, I had but to wait a second before a faint thrill ran through my hand and told me something had touched the fly. Could it be a bite? So different was it to the sudden onslaught of a trout, that I hesitated whether or not to strike, and contrary to the usual fate of the waverer, it was the momentary pause which gave me the fish. A slight movement of the wrist and I had him fast, and then a delicious few minutes followed while I played as game a dace as I ever wish to measure skill with. Indeed I should not have been surprised when at last my prize was safely caught in the landing net, to see the spotted scales of a trout. But no, the slender, silvery, beautiful-headed fish could be no other than a dace, and his captor at least was content with the gallant bid he had made for his life.
If dace would take the fly, why not also roach and chub, and soon, faute de mieux it is true, but none the less with very considerable enjoyment, I was fishing the little stream for all three kinds in turn. On the gravelly bottom of a certain portion of the water, I found a red Palmer very attractive to the roach which were there in considerable numbers. Some of them were of fair size, the largest I took turning the scales at 1-lb., but I am bound to confess that I found these fish such very shy biters that I generally preferred to try either for dace or chub. One roach, however, gave rather a novel experience by hanging itself in a tree, and causing the greatest excitement among our party, the members of which quickly came from their chosen spots to see and admire. I was fishing from the shelter of a bush on the top of a high steep bank, and with some trees close at the rear and a decidedly fresh breeze blowing, it was not an easy matter to get the line safely out at all. The water, however, was but little disturbed by the wind, from which just there it was protected by the high ground, and the fish were clearly visible in the water below. As there was nothing for it in such a position but to swing the fish out if I caught one, I did not for that once wish to make a big capture. Scarcely had the tail fly—this was a red Palmer—touched the water than one of the usual shy bites was made, and fortunately my strike secured the prize so far. But he seemed heavy and was, besides, the gamest of his kind I have ever played. Quietly we could not manage things, and it was very soon clear that if I did not then secure him, I need not struggle with the difficulties of casting again in that part of the stream, for every other finny inhabitant would have taken the alarm. All my faculties were therefore intent on the capture. When I saw him at last tired of struggling and almost beneath me, I tried to swing him up, wondering, as I did so, if it were possible my light tackle could stand the strain. A flash of silver through the air, then a puff of wind, and a red-finned, black-backed roach of about 8-oz. in weight, was dangling over the topmost bough of a tree which grew up from the lower part of the bank a little to my left. The poor fish struggled and the line swayed ominously among the branches, till at last a nimble climber released them both, and to my delight restored them to me.
For chub I found a larger fly effective, and a Coachman and a Red Palmer, both tied large, were what I generally used. In my experience, chub is the most determined biter of any of those I am now discussing, and he is very game up to a certain point, his dashes and struggles as he tries to free himself from the hook, being as fierce as those of many a good trout. The battle, however, will be over much sooner than with one of the latter species, and when you see the inert form in the water, you will realise with sorrow that after all he does not belong to the kind known as "game fish." In fishing for chub you must be as careful about showing yourself as you would be in trying for a trout, for he is very quick in spotting anything unusual, and once he has done this, you may offer him the most tempting flies unavailingly. By the time you have landed a 2-lb. chub, you will, in my opinion, have exercised to the full as much, if not more skill, than you would have done in the capture of a trout, and though the sport of playing him will be sooner over, it will have been good indeed while it lasted.
Method of fastening Reel-line to Cast.
The chub I found to rise earlier in the day in this little Sussex stream than either dace or roach, the two last on the warm August evenings often rising freely as long as we could see to cast for them.
The great difference between fishing with the fly for game and coarse fish lies in this, that while with the latter you require even more lightness of hand and skill in casting than on any ordinary trout stream, the intense excitement of the moments when you play a good trout or salmon will not be experienced to the same extent. But that sport and good sport may be enjoyed with any of the three varieties I have named, I have proved to my own satisfaction, and I hope that what I have said may induce others to try for themselves.
At the same time that nothing can equal the joy of playing and landing your first trout, I would be the last to deny, for the day on which the first fell to my rod is still marked as a red letter day in my life. This also was in Sussex, in a well-stocked merry little stream which babbled and chattered over its white stones, giving the last touch of beauty to the peaceful valley through which it flowed. After the preliminary walk along the banks of that part of the water I was to fish, so as to get the knowledge of the position of the pools and eddies and overhanging banks without which one's labour is likely to be thrown away, I sallied forth, rod in hand, to the neighbourhood of a bridge from which I had noted several trout lying with their heads up stream. A few hundred yards from this, where the banks it is true did not seem to offer much facility for casting, there was an eddy at one side of the stream and a mass of rushes on the other, all under the shadow of trees which rose between them and the bridge. When it is remembered that I was trying for my first trout—the experience now lies back in the dim distance of the past—it will not perhaps cause surprise if I say that my whole being thrilled with the excitement of the moment. My cast had a red Palmer for the tail fly, and black Alder as dropper, for at dinner the night before I had been advised to try these by a local fisherman. I should probably make a mess of it, and catch my line in one or other of the traps that literally bristled on all sides of me, was the thought that was uppermost, as after scrambling down cautiously and keeping well out of view, I craned my neck to see how I could possibly get my cast to alight on the spot I had chosen. As I had my hand up for the venture a swift rise just where my eyes were fixed on the water, told me of the presence of a trout. My line flew out, and the tail-fly falling within the widening circle was instantly seized, and a sharp turn of the wrist gave me a trout with a bewildering suddenness. Up went the point of the rod, and the good cane bent to the weight beneath. A maddened dash across stream to the reeds, was the first attempt of the prey, then a trial to get to the shelter of a rock conveniently near, but slowly and surely he gave in to the steady pull brought to bear on him, and soon I looked with unspeakable delight on a ½-lb. trout, in the prime of condition, safe within the folds of the landing net. That no fish ever comes up to the one you first capture, has since this moment been an article of faith with me. Others larger, gamer, better in every sense may, and will if you have ordinary skill and perseverance, fall to your rod, but nothing will give you the same thrill of rapture you felt when you saw your "first trout" on the bank at your feet.
A good Gut Knot.
To make a good trout fisher there are of course many things to learn, and one of the greatest charms of the sport lies in this, that you never come to the end of what there is to know of it. But pre-eminently is it true that an ounce of practice is worth a ton of precepts. You must to a very great extent buy your own experience, and though you will always do well to profit by other people's advice, you must yourself build up the theories which will show you how, when, and where to cast so that fish may rise to your fly, when they are proof against the blandishments of the less skillfully-thrown lure. That you should always study the lie of the water over which you mean to fish is a truism, and yet it is a fundamental rule to the neglect of which many both men and women owe the fact, that they never rise above a very mediocre degree of skill. Unless you know something of the habits of the fish and the spots in which he is likely to be found, how can you hope to succeed in making him acquainted with your fly? To prevent him catching a glimpse of you, and for this end to be dressed so as scarcely to be distinguished from the ground upon which you will be standing, to make no noise or disturbance, to throw with the utmost delicacy of hand, to strike instantaneously or the reverse according to the particular class of fish you are angling for, to cast up stream or partly up and across, and never to allow the gut to make a ripple as you draw your cast through the water, all these constitute the ABC of an angler's stock of learning.
I believe that most people carry about with them a quite unnecessary stock of flies, and that as much success will fall to you if you only provide yourself with different kinds of Palmers, Black and Red Gnats, the Black Alder, Red Spinner, March Brown, Blue Upright, Yellow Dun, Stone Fly, Wickham's Fancy, Greenwell's Glory, and on some streams the Green Drake, having these in several shades and tied on different sized hooks, never forgetting to supplement them by any others recommended by local fishermen, whose knowledge remember has probably been bought by careful study and long and varied experience.
For coarse fish I have found the Palmers, Black Gnat, Artificial Grub, and Bumble Bee the most successful. The Chub always liking their fly tied large, the Dace and Roach preferring theirs small.
A rod well-chosen and well-balanced is of course of the first necessity to your success. To speak again from my own experience, I found an inexpensive light Greenheart made by Hancock, a delightful rod in every respect and with this my first ventures both with trout and coarse fish were made. It only measured 10-ft. 6-in., but was beautifully balanced, and you could make very fairly long casts with it. As a beginner you should always get some experienced friend to choose your rod for you, though like everything else of the kind, you will naturally prefer to make the choice yourself as soon as you know how to test the balance on which all else depends.
In the matter of outfit, you will need a creel which should contain an upper tray for luncheon, a landing net, and one or two casts ready made for use. The last may be fastened round your hat, and of course if you have any idea of being independent and going out by yourself, your creel and net should be chosen with a view to lightness, or they will naturally add materially to the fatigue of a day on the river bank.
Lastly, I would say, that if you should have the opportunity of going out with a good fisherman on a river or lake, there to learn the elements of fly-fishing, by all means avail yourself of it. In no other way can you master the rudimentary practice so easily as from a boat, for there will be no bushes or banks, or the hundred and one difficulties you may have to consider on land, and you will therefore be able to concentrate your efforts on getting your line out in a fairly workmanlike manner.
That you should not be easily discouraged it is scarcely necessary to add, for who that has landed her first trout has not straightway felt the fever of the rod take possession of her?
Frances E. Slaughter.
Lafayette. Dublin.
MISS MASSEY-MAINWARING.
[DRIVING.]
Of the many forms of sport indulged in by women there is in my opinion none more fascinating than driving. Single, pair, and tandem-driving are within the capabilities of most women, though to control a team thoroughly, especially with a full coach behind it, requires exceptional skill, nerve and strength. The first thing to learn when beginning driving lessons is the proper position and use of each piece of harness, the effect of shifting the reins on the bit, the correct position of the bit in the horse's mouth, and in pair or team driving how the horses should be coupled to go well together. There are no two horses quite alike in character, and each one to go well in harness requires attention to his individual habits and characteristics. Very few people realise how much unnecessary pain is caused to horses by mere thoughtlessness. How many people there are who to be "smart" have very tight bearing reins, never dreaming of the agony the poor animals are suffering when left waiting as they often are at the front door, with their mouths aching and their heads strained up. Yet I do not by any means wish to condemn the use of the bearing rein altogether, especially in a crowded city, as it would be impossible to drive many horses without one. Frequently, too, the bit is put very much too high in the horses' mouths, and then people wonder why the poor animals are restless and fidgety while their mouths are being pinched and cut.
Reins for Single Harness.
There are so many things to be mentioned in speaking of driving that it is difficult to know where to begin, what to leave out, and what to mention. I cannot do better than begin with the start from the front door. There are exceedingly few women who have any idea how to start properly. I remember once noticing a very good whip start. She was ready when the cart came to the door, for she well knew that nothing is worse for an animal than to be kept waiting. She went and patted the pony, giving a glance at the harness to see that it was all in its proper place. Finding the throat lash too tight she let it out a hole, then unfastening the reins from the off-side terret, she took them in her right hand with the second and third fingers between the two reins, got in and sat down immediately. Putting the rug over her knees, she then transferred the reins to her left hand, the near rein over the first finger and the off rein between the second and third fingers, and took the whip in her right hand. When she was quite ready to start, she dropped her left hand and the pony moved off. My first impression naturally was, "I am sure that girl can drive," and I was quite right.
In driving there are so very many things to be remembered and others to be avoided, that I think a few good rules will be the easiest way of mentioning them:
1. Both the reins should be held in the left hand, on no account should either rein be taken out of that hand.
2. The hand should be kept just above the level of the waist, fairly close to the body, the wrist being well bent so as to give plenty of spring to the horse's mouth, the nails and thumb turned towards the body and the elbow close to the hip.
3. The reins should be kept close to the knuckles, so as to avoid the possibility of their slipping out of the hand.
4. The right hand should not be kept altogether on the reins, but when on them it should be slightly in front of the left, and the hands should never be far apart.
5. To shorten either or both the reins push them through the left hand from the front, with the right.
6. To lengthen, pull them through the left hand from the front with the right hand, never let a rein slip.
7. Always hold the whip in the right hand when driving.
8. The whip should be held where it balances best, usually just below the collar, and the thong should be kept fairly high so as to avoid the possibility of the lash tickling the horse.
9. Never jerk a horse when starting, and never flap the reins on his back.
10. If a horse does not start when you drop the hand slightly, draw the whip gently over his withers.
11. When whipping a horse, with the exception of leaders, always hit him in front of the pad.
12. A kicker can often be stopped by a sharp hit on the ears.
13. Always keep a steady, firm, though not heavy hold of a horse's mouth, "feel" his mouth all the time he is going.
14. When driving through a crowded thoroughfare, remember there is traffic behind as well as in front that must not be stopped unnecessarily.
15. Pass all the near-side traffic on its off-side.
16. When turning a corner or pulling up, always indicate your intention, in the former case by swinging the whip in the direction in which the turn is being made, or in the latter by swinging the lash straight above the head.
17. Always go fairly slowly round corners, and keep to the near side.
18. Keep a horse well in hand on greasy wood or asphalt, or when going down hill, and never hurry going up a steep hill.
19. Always look straight ahead, and on no account at the traffic passing or being passed.
20. Never hit a horse when the right hand is on the reins, as otherwise in using the whip the hand necessarily goes forward and relaxes the hold on the rein or reins.
Of course it is quite impossible to lay down rules for everything, and a great deal in driving can only be learnt by long and varied experience. One often hears people talking of self-made whips, but that term generally means people who think they can drive and cannot. For anyone beginning to drive it is essential to start by taking lessons from a really first-class whip. Most of the road coach-drivers give lessons. It is quite as necessary to have good lessons to drive one horse as it is to drive four, as the foundation of pair, team, and tandem driving is to be able to drive one horse perfectly.
A made pair is quite as easy to drive as a single horse, but when it is a case of driving two horses, which have not been previously in harness together, it is quite a different matter. Nothing looks nicer than to see a good pair of cobs in a smart phaeton, going well, driven by a lady who knows what driving means. Women who drive well, as a rule, have light hands, though many of them do not keep a sufficiently steady hold on a horse's mouth. They so often forget that it is a matter of the greatest importance to feel their horse's mouth the whole time they are going. It is not an easy matter to get any two horses of about the same size to go well together, unless the greatest attention is given to all the lesser details. It is absolutely necessary that the harness should fit well and be properly adjusted. When starting two new horses it is as well to do so with the couplings level and bitted cheek all round. After they have gone a short distance it can easily be seen whether they are going comfortably and well together and each doing his fair share of work. If they are not, the reason can soon be discovered, and the fault rectified. Very often one horse goes a good deal more freely, and takes a stronger hold of the bit, and in that case it will be necessary to see that the other horse has sufficient room in the couplings, and at the same time to put the free horse middle bar if he is inclined to pull. Frequently though, the mistake is made of shifting the reins on the bit when only the couplings require altering. Very few horses carry their heads quite alike, and consequently will require more or less room in the couplings as the case may he. Many horses too do not carry their heads straight, and need special attention. For instance: it the near side horse carries his head over to the left, the off-side rein will have to be shortened, which means the buckle will have to be taken on the other horse's off-rein. It requires the greatest care and nicety to couple horses correctly, for it makes all the difference as to the way in which they will go. When putting two horses together it is as well if possible to get them the same size, colour and build. Size is the most important, and many people consider colour the next to be considered, but personally I think colour makes very little difference as long as the horses are the same stamp and go comfortably together. It is most disagreeable to drive two horses together, one having a long swinging stride, and the other taking short "shuffling" steps. It is most trying for the horses too, as the former is sure to do more work than the latter, which to keep up will be continually breaking into a canter.
THE HARNESS.
- 1. Brow Band.
- 2. Blinkers.
- 3. Nose Band.
- 4. Liverpool Bit.
- 5. Curb Chain.
- 6. Cheek Strap.
- 7. Throat Lash.
- 8. Collar.
- 9. Hames.
When putting in a young horse for the first time, it is best to put him in a brake with a steady old horse which knows his work. The off-side is best for the youngster just at first, but he should be perpetually changed sides, as otherwise he will be apt to develop numerous bad habits, besides getting a crooked mouth. When starting get somebody to hold his head till ready to go, and then the man should run beside him for a few minutes, without holding him. Be sure to drop the hand to the horses well as they move off, and do not on any account allow the young horse to be the first to get into his collar, as if you do he will feel the whole weight of the brake and the other horse, and be unable to move, and will in all probability jib. Once a horse has learnt that he can jib, it is a most difficult habit to break him of. Therefore, avoid letting a young horse find out that he can do so. Very often a young horse will go better through the traffic in London than he will round the Park when it is empty, as in the traffic there are so many things to occupy his attention that he will forget to resent he is made to work. If anything frightens him and he refuses to pass it, get him led by and do not hit him, as otherwise he will always associate that particular thing with being hit, and think it is the object of his fright which caused him to be hit, and afterwards either jib when he sees it again, or rush by it. Before a young horse is driven he should be thoroughly accustomed to having the harness on and the bit in his mouth. It is best to have the harness put on with very long reins, so that a man can walk behind him and make him walk as it he were being driven. His first lessons should be short so as not to worry or tire him.
Once a woman can drive any two horses together and make them go well, she will probably be capable of learning to drive a tandem or team. It is very hard to say which is the better of the two to begin with. Personally I think if both are going to be taken up, it is as well to start with a team, but it really makes very little difference. Of course a team requires a great deal more strength, but very often to drive any two horses together makes a large demand on your strength. One of the best ways of learning is to watch a good driver, both going through the traffic and driving in the country, and to pay great attention to his hands as well as the horses, so as to notice how the turns, etc., are done. An easy means of doing this is to take the box seat of a road coach when a professional is driving, and afterwards to take lessons from a road coach driver. A great deal can be learnt at first, simply by watching a person's hands, noting how a loop is made, how when the leaders are turning the wheelers are kept "off" a corner, and how the team is straightened.
How to take up Reins.
The most difficult thing for a beginner to learn is how to start the horses properly, and how to pull up well. It is absolutely necessary always to see that the horses and harness are in their proper places, and the horses correctly bitted, as anything being out of place may easily cause a serious accident. Avoid keeping the horses waiting once they are ready to start. Go to the off-side wheeler and take the reins first in the left hand, the first finger between the lead reins and the middle finger between the wheel reins, take them gently so as not to touch the horses' mouths, then pull out a good piece of the off reins, so that the buckles and splicings may be about level when you are seated. Transfer the reins to the right hand, the middle finger between the lead and the third finger between the wheel reins, get on the box, and sit down immediately, so as to avoid being jerked off should the horses start suddenly. Then transfer the reins back to the left hand. All reins do not have the splicing quite in the same place, but as a rule the buckles and splicing will be about level. Gently feel the wheelers' mouths and then the leaders', the latter should be standing away from the bars. The near wheel rein may be a trifle shorter than the off, as this is the most difficult one to take up in a hurry. Be sure that the leaders have plenty of head room when starting, otherwise they will be likely to jib. Though the wheelers should start the coach, if any one of the horses is inclined to jib he should not be allowed to feel the weight of the coach when moving off. Once started the lead reins can easily be shortened a trifle. Take the whip in the right hand, and drop the left hand well to the horses just as they start, and then bring it back to its proper place. Be careful when dropping the left hand not to bend forward and lean over the reins; nothing looks worse. The proper position of the left hand is about level with the waist, the elbow close to the side, the wrist well bent, and the fingers and thumb turned towards the body, in fact practically the same as for driving a single horse or pair, but as the driver is higher over the horses and the weight of the reins is greater the hand will probably be a trifle lower.
Position of Hands and Reins.
The horses must be continually watched so as to see that each is doing his fair share of the work and that the team is absolutely straight, otherwise it will be quite impossible to get through the traffic or to turn corners properly. It is best always to shorten reins by pushing them through from the front, but at first the beginner will find it very difficult. If the team is not going straight it can generally be put right by either shortening or lengthening the two middle reins—the off lead and the near wheel—these being the two easiest to alter, being together. Of course sometimes only one rein may be wrong, and if that is the case it should immediately be either pulled out or pushed through, or three reins may be too long, and then it is very often found convenient to lengthen the short one, and then put the right hand on the reins some inches in front of the left and slide the left hand up to it. Shortening the reins by this method looks far more workmanlike than by pulling them through the left hand from behind, and it does not jerk the horses in the mouth.
A team should always be kept well in hand, and a steady though light pressure maintained on their mouths. If a horse is found to be pulling or boring, he should be differently bitted at once, as every horse must be well under control. Before turning a corner be sure that all the mouths are felt, slacken the pace slightly, and then point the leaders in the direction and make the wheelers follow them round. A loop has to be made in the reins as the horses must not turn together, but the wheelers after the leaders. The point or loop is made by placing the right hand on the lead rein of the side to which the turn is being made, some distance in front of the left hand, this depends on the size of the turn and whether the leaders answer quickly, the rein must then be brought back to the left hand and placed under the thumb, which forms a loop and leaves the right hand free either to hit the wheelers or be put on the reins to steady the horses. When the leaders are round the corner the loop can be allowed to slide gradually through the hand, but should never be let go all at once. In bringing back the loop to the left hand, the leaders must be watched so as to tell exactly how much rein is required to be taken up, to make them turn as desired. Free horses that have been going in the lead for some time, especially if they know the road well, will only require a very small loop. Horses too, that have been in the wheel long are apt to cut the corners very short, as the wheeler on the side on which the turn is being made, recognises the sign of the leaders being about to turn, by feeling the lead rein shortened at the side of his head.
In those cases what is called the opposition point is made use of. For instance, turning to the right the near wheel rein is looped over the thumb, and the off lead is looped under the first finger, to the left the off-wheel rein is looped under the first finger, and the near lead under the thumb. This is by far the easiest way of making the opposition point, as by this means either loop can be let out by itself if necessary. Be careful when taking up a loop never to let the left hand go forward to meet the right. The right hand should always bring the rein back to the left hand. By turning the left hand towards one, the near reins get shortened, and by turning it outwards, away from one, the off reins get tightened. A great deal can be done by giving the hand. Again a slight curve to either side, not a sharp turn, may be accomplished by placing the right hand on the lead reins and one wheel rein. For instance if an incline to the right were being made, the right hand would take hold of the lead reins and the near wheel. In London, when the wood and asphalt are greasy, it is best to drive slowly, as a coach is fairly heavy and not easy for the horses to stop, in spite of the assistance given by the brake. Going through the traffic the bars should always chatter, which means that the leaders should not be doing their full share of the work, when turning, they should be quite out of draught otherwise the pole would most probably be snapped. Some coaches have a foot brake, and this is very useful, especially in traffic when a lady is driving and has to pull up suddenly, and at the same time it saves the horses' legs greatly, though it does not do to make too frequent use of it. It is best for a lady to have someone sitting on the "brake seat," to put on the brake for going down steep hills, but this person should never touch the brake till he is told to do so, as only the driver can know the exact moment when it is required.
When coming to the top of a hill, before going down always take a pull at the horses, shorten all the reins, and make sure of feeling all their mouths. The leaders should always be out of draught going down hill, but they should on no account be too far back on the bars as otherwise knocking up against them might cause one of the leaders to kick and get a leg over the trace. Generally when shortening all the reins on the top of a hill, the wheelers come so far back that the leaders are brought right back on the bars, and if anything, the lead reins have to be let out. It is best to begin going down hill fairly slowly, as the pace can always be increased, but it is most difficult to lessen it. When pulling up, run the right hand some way down the reins, and bring it back to the left if possible. It is as well to shorten the reins slightly in the left hand previously. When putting the right hand on the rein to steady the horses, it is a very good plan to place it over three reins only, the third and fourth fingers over the off rein and the first and second fingers over one of the others. The lead reins should never be buckled, and on road coaches none of the reins have buckles on them as a rule.
One of the great difficulties to be overcome at the beginning is the management of the whip. A team whip should not be too heavy, especially for a lady's use, but at the same time it ought not to be very light. A whip should always be kept hung up, and it is a very good plan to keep one handy and have it down from the wall every day for five or ten minutes' practice even after you have learnt to fold it. The common way of learning to fold or catch is to chalk a big
on the wall, and beginning at the bottom of this go upwards towards the right, swinging the lash upwards, and then allowing it to come back to the stick. The whip should be held with the first finger pointing up the stick, and the lash under the second finger. An expensive whip is by no means necessary. Schomberg, in the Brompton Road, has some useful ones at 14s. 6d. In choosing a whip it is best to get a springy one, with several knots on the stick near the quill so as to keep the thong on the stick when folded. It should balance well when held near the collar.
When on the box the whip should be held in the right hand under the thumb, with the lash twisted a few times round the stick, which is also held under the thumb. The lash should always be in a big loop, so that there is not more than six inches to spare beyond the hand. The wheelers should always be hit before the pad with the double thong, and the leaders should be hit on the hind legs, by the end of the lash of course. When about to hit the leaders unfold the whip and bring the stick back to the side of the coach, and then by a movement of the wrist send the lash in the required direction under the bars. Afterwards bring the thong back to the stick and fold it up again. When the thong is on the stick, put the left thumb through the loop that is on the stick, pull off the lash and give it one or two turns to the left. In hitting wheelers one must remember that they cannot do their fair share of work if the leaders have too much head room, and it is quite useless hitting them without first shortening the leaders' reins. Above all, when driving a team, keep them well in hand and feel their mouths.
Tandem driving in many respects closely resembles team driving. The reins are held in the same way, and the whip is practically the same though generally rather lighter and the lash a trifle shorter, but this will depend of course on the size of the horses you are driving. Many people consider a tandem, even apart from the difference in the weight of the reins, more difficult to drive than a coach, but personally I have always considered tandem driving the easier of the two; it is easier to pull up in the traffic and you can turn in a fairly small space, though to make the horses go well they require neat, quick, handling, and exceptionally light hands. Many horses will make good tandem leaders that will not go in any other form of harness; of course, there are many too which make safe leaders, but at the same time could not be called "good." A perfect leader should be quick and free, and always be taking a slight hold of the bit, he should go wherever he is driven and not shy off omnibuses, etc. A slug in the lead is most difficult to drive, and quite takes away from the pleasure of a tandem.
There are two kinds of harness, with and without bars. With bars is supposed to be the safer of the two, but, if proper care is taken, there is practically no danger without bars, as the leader should never be allowed to get far enough back to risk his getting a leg over the trace. To turn, a loop can be taken up just the same as in turning a team, but it is necessarily much smaller, and great care must be taken not to allow the leader to come completely round. Most corners, if not sharp ones, can be turned by placing the right hand over the lead reins and one wheel rein, but a great deal depends on the give and take of the left hand. This is a most important thing, as a tandem turns very easily, a turn of the wrist being usually sufficient to move the horses across the road. When the right hand is kept on the reins, it should be in the same position as on team reins. When getting into the cart the reins should also be taken the same way as team reins, first in the left hand and then passed to the right, and finally, when seated, transferred back to the left hand. Before taking the reins to get into the cart, the whip should always be neatly folded and placed in the socket ready for immediate use. Though the wheeler starts the cart, the leader should have plenty of head room, or otherwise he will be liable to jib. A tandem is most useful for going fairly long distances at a good pace, as the weight is not great and the leader can do his full share of the work going up hill. Except when going up hill a leader should only do a very small share of the work. If proper care is taken, the danger of a tandem is by no means so great as is generally supposed, and a good tandem is a most enjoyable turn-out to drive.
Downer. Watford.
MISS MASSEY-MAINWARING.
I hope the foregoing hints may be of some use to those interested in driving, who wish to become steady and clever whips. The most necessary things to ensure success are plenty of practice in driving different horses, and great care and attention to all the minor details. There is nothing more enjoyable than road coach-driving, in my opinion, except a day with foxhounds. But women should not attempt coaching unless they are fairly strong, and have had plenty of experience.
Before I end I cannot help mentioning one whip whose driving I have always particularly admired, and that is Ernest K. Fownes, of Rocket fame. I have often had the pleasure of seeing him drive, and a useful lesson it has been each time. It is most interesting to watch how he goes through the thickest traffic, never stopping it, and never seeming himself to stop, his horses going as one.
Ada J. C. Massey-Mainwaring.
MRS. A. C. HILLS.
[CYCLING.]
The subject of cycling is distinctly a many-sided one. While the same general remarks which apply to the subject of exercise for women, apply also to the use of the cycle, we should remember that though every woman is benefitted by exercise of some kind, there are a few women who are not fitted to ride the cycle at all. This may seem a strong assertion from one who is devoted to cycling, and who so thoroughly believes in its health-giving properties. But though to the practised rider cycling is much easier work than walking, to the novice, or to the unskilled rider, and even to the skilled rider who is out of form, it becomes hard work. Especially in learning, an amount of muscular effort is required which some women are unfitted to undertake. Therefore, we must assume that the would-be cyclist is a person of average health, strength, and activity, and to such an one, the cycle should be a boon indeed. It is impossible to lay down rules as to who is fit or unfit to take up the pastime, for even doctors are sometimes much at fault on this point. My own view is that any girl, or older woman either, who is used to a fair amount of exercise, should be able to cycle and to cycle well, in time. But those with weak hearts or similar complaints should not attempt to cycle, any more than they should run upstairs quickly or climb steep hills.
Before leaving the health view of cycling, I wish to impress most strongly on all who take up cycling the necessity of "taking it easily" at first. Apart from the fact that actually the hardest work is in the learning, it must be remembered that even after the learner can ride without assistance, the body has to become accustomed to an entirely new form of exercise. If you took a good walker and stopped her from all walking exercise for a few months, how tired she would get when she began again. This fatigue would continue until her muscles had got into good order again, and yet walking comes naturally to everyone. Cycling does not come naturally, except in very rare instances, so how much more necessary is it to begin carefully, and let the body become gradually accustomed to it. The girl who rides ten or fifteen miles after being on a cycle only once or twice, and who—from not having mastered the art of riding—uses two or three times more exertion over it than she need, would not dream, perhaps, of walking five miles on end at a good pace. Yet she then pronounces the cycle "hard work," and says she finds no pleasure in it. No wonder!
Really to appreciate cycling many conditions are necessary, and that is why I called it a many-sided subject at the outset. First of all it is an active exercise, so those who have not been in the habit of taking enough outdoor exercise in other forms, must not expect to cycle with comfort or enjoyment until they have gradually got their general health, into a state which is known as "fit." Then when the cyclist is fitted in herself to enjoy riding, there are other things to be considered, and these I put as follows:
(a) To ride correctly; (b) to have a good cycle, suited to the particular requirements of the rider, and properly adjusted; and (c) to look well.
First then as to Riding, and here we are met by the reflection, how few women ride really well. It makes me sad to see how badly three-fourths of the riders one meets are getting along, and when I reflect how much more they would enjoy themselves, and how much better they would look if taken in hand for a time by a good tutor, I feel angry at the so-called "Instructors" one usually has to put up with at the average riding school.
When you are learning, you should if possible select a grass lawn, or failing this a quiet piece of broad road, and practice on this little and often. Short rides, even of a few yards, are valuable, if done frequently. The pupil should not get over-tired, or struggle on after her efforts become worrying. She should take a rest and have another turn a few hours later, and will then find the result very different. To the novice my advice is, do not trouble about mounting and dismounting without assistance, as this will come later as a matter of course.
The object must be to sit quite still in the saddle, and not to rely on the handles. Good riders never move their bodies at all, but ride with their hands just resting lightly on the handles, not pulling at them. In time it will be found the machine can be steered by just slightly inclining the shoulders in the direction in which it is wished to turn. Above all things when you are learning do not fix your eyes on the front wheel, but look ahead. This is essential.
When the machine goes naturally in a straight line, then the rider will know that she is not only sitting well, but has begun to acquire the art of pedalling. There is a very great deal in pedalling evenly, as this not only lessens the labour but takes away all difficulty of steering. When a rider sits well and pedals well, there is practically no steering to be done, for the machine will go automatically in the direction desired by the rider, or so at least it will appear. The saddle should be so adjusted that when the pedal is at its lowest point, the foot of the rider should be just able to drop on to it naturally, without quite straightening the knee. A good way to test this, is to stretch the toe out as far as it will go (knee quite straight) and if the foot will just go underneath the pedal, no more, the length of reach is correct.
Force should never be exerted in driving the pedals, they must be "coaxed" round, for this in a word is the art of "ankling." When the pedal is at the top of the stroke, the heel should be downward as in Fig. 1. As the pedal travels forward and down, the foot should follow it, keeping the ankle as still as possible, till at the bottom of the stroke, the toe is pointing downwards, and the heel is highest. The effect of this will be first of all to give power in riding as shown by Fig. 2. If the foot is pressed downward only, it will be in operation for a very small part of the stroke, as the pedal moves in a circle, but by ankling, it will easily be seen (Fig. 3) that power is maintained for a much longer time.
Fig. 1.
Fig. 2.
From a woman's point of view too the effect of ankling is still more important, as beside the gain in speed, it promotes gracefulness. The rise and fall of the knee in riding, is reduced by one half when the ankles are used properly, and the result to the onlooker is consequently more pleasing. For the skirt to hang gracefully and the rider to look well, there should be as little movement of the knees as possible. Therefore, if you sit sufficiently high and use your ankles properly, you will not only be using your powers to the very best advantage, and lessening fatigue, but will at the same time be attaining gracefulness, and in every way improving your appearance in the saddle.
Fig. 3.
Another important point is to keep the legs straight up and down when riding. The knees should not be allowed to go either inwards or outwards on any account, and there should be no "wobbling" in the leg action. The toe and heel should be in a line, at right angles across the pedal, that is, exactly parallel with the crank all the time. Take care that the heel does not twist at all (Fig. 4) on the stroke.
Fig. 4.
Learn to mount from either side of the machine, and to do so lean the machine a little toward you with the outside pedal up, and rather forward, then place your foot on the pedal furthest from you, and as you raise yourself into the saddle, the weight of your body will bear on that pedal, thus sending the opposite one up to meet the other foot.
The dress should be caught in the hand as you put your foot across the machine on to the pedal, and if any further arrangement should be necessary you will, when you are at home in the saddle, find it easy to do this as you go along. A slight pull to the side will be all that is required. When once in the saddle, do not be anxious to find the other pedal, simply keep the machine straight, as it will run a surprising distance of its own accord after the start given to it by the act of mounting, unless, indeed, you should be mounting up hill, which is never desirable for a beginner to attempt. If the foot which was on the ground is allowed to hang downwards as soon as the rider is seated in the saddle, it will find the pedal quite naturally, in fact the pedal will come round to the foot. In dismounting as in mounting, the rider should learn to do it with equal ease and confidence from either side. When the pedal is coming upward, throw the weight upon it—this stops the momentum of the machine—at the same time rising out of the saddle, then pass the other foot over the cycle and step down in front of the pedal, on which the weight of the body is resting. A firm grasp should be kept on both handles, and the machine inclined towards the rider, on the side she dismounts.
The rule of the road is usually ignored by cycling women, but nothing in connection with the pastime is really more important. To observe it always whether necessary or not, is to reduce the possibility of accident to a minimum. It then becomes a habit, and in an emergency the instinct is to do the right thing immediately, the value of which can scarcely be over-estimated. Always ride then to the left side of the road, whether there are vehicles about or not. Remember, it is the unexpected that always happens, and should a cart or cycle suddenly appear from a bye road, an accident will almost surely happen if you are on the side that should be free for them. If in spite of your caution an accident happens, you will at least have the chance of being compensated if you can prove that you were on your proper side at the time; you certainly would not, if you were on the wrong side. There are only two occasions on which this rule is deviated from, viz.: when passing a vehicle which is going in the same direction or when passing a led horse going in either direction. When overtaking a vehicle, never pass between it and the pavement or side-walk, for the tendency is for the driver to pull in toward the left when he hears anything behind him. With a led horse the custom is to keep the man in charge always between oneself and the led horse, no matter in which part of the road the latter may be. The reason is obvious, led horses being sometimes playful with their heels.
The most fruitful cause of accidents is the wrong taking of corners. The right way to do it, however, is very simple. Thus if proceeding along a road, and desiring to turn off to the left, make the curve (if possible) in the road you are in, and thus enter the other road on the left, i.e., safe side. Remember that you cannot see what is in the other road, and the act of turning will make the machine swing out more or less from the proper side (Fig. 5).
Fig. 5.
The principle is reversed when taking a turn to the right. Never cut across the nearest corner in doing this. Go nearly across the side road so as to turn into it on your proper side thus (Fig. 6).
Fig. 6.
If these simple matters are borne in mind, a cyclist may go many years without even the risk of an accident. Another thing to remember, is never on any account to lose control of your machine when descending a hill you do not know, if the bottom of it cannot be seen. Though to "fly" a hill is the height of enjoyment, safety demands that the end of the spin should be visible, or that you should know your ground thoroughly.
In the choice of a machine, remember it is very essential to have a cycle well suited to the rider. Cyclists of experience get to know their own requirements exactly and can suit their physical peculiarities, but more often than not the beginner is entirely in the hands of the cycle agent. Hence we so often see a slight, frail woman struggling along with a great, heavy unwieldy machine altogether beyond her strength, or on the other hand a heavy woman who is obviously under-mounted. For riders who are of moderate height or even a little over I believe in 26-inch wheels, but tall women should have 28-inch wheels fitted to their machines, to look proportionate to the extra high frame necessary. In the latter case everything else should be also larger. The 26-inch wheels look well for all but very tall or stout riders. The usual height of frame is about 21 inches measured from the top of the frame—the part where the seat pillar is fixed in—to the centre of the bracket axle (Fig. 7). This will accommodate riders whose length of leg-reach is up to 32 inches or 33 inches. It is better on the whole to have the frame too short than too long. It is more rigid if short, and a little seat pillar standing out will not detract greatly from the appearance. Always ascertain that there is a margin of at least six inches between the height of the seat pillar, when down at the lowest point, and when raised to the fullest height at which it can be safely fixed. Exactly the same should apply to the stem of the handle bars, as, if the saddle is raised the handles should be raised to a corresponding degree, otherwise the rider will be in a stooping position. The exact position of the handles depends a great deal on the length of arm and length of body of the rider, but in the ordinary way the lowest part of the handles should be at least two inches above the saddle (see Fig. 7), as it is above all things necessary that the rider shall not have to stoop forward when riding. On the other hand, the handles must not be higher than is necessary for a comfortable grasp, otherwise the effect will be extremely ungraceful. As the rider sits in the saddle with her arms extended straight downward, she should be able to swing them forward exactly into the riding position, without bending the elbow in any appreciable degree.
In purchasing a cycle the most important points for the rider to consider are:
1. Rigidity of frame.
2. Weight.
3. Width of tread.
4. Height of pedal from the ground.
Fig. 7.
Rigidity of frame means speed, i.e., ease of propulsion. If the frame is badly designed it will yield sideways to the rider's pressure, and much of the power which would be otherwise used to send it forward will be wasted. If you grasp the steering head and the down tube of a cycle (see Fig. 7) and endeavour to twist the frame, you can ascertain whether it is rigid or not. It should not be possible to force these two points towards each other at all, or to pull them sideways out of line with each other. If you can, there will be no chance of riding up a steep incline on that machine! There is another essential matter on which the purchaser can protect herself. This is to see that the cycle is properly stayed in various parts of the frame. These "stays" bind the whole frame firmly together and prevent "give" or yielding, when pressure is applied on the pedals. In addition to the "stays" in the front portion of frame (examples of which are shown in Fig. 7) there should be a stay between the two back legs, just above the back wheel.
If you are purchasing a machine with an acknowledged reputation, and made by a maker of standing, it can safely be assumed that these matters have been provided for, as they would only be omitted on the score of cheapness. Never on any account be persuaded to ride a machine which is not fully guaranteed by a well-known firm. There are so many points on which a cycle may be faulty, and the only safeguard to the rider is that the work shall have been carried out in the most careful and conscientious fashion throughout. Therefore I would repeat never trust yourself on any but a machine by a good maker. Far better buy even a good second-hand cycle than a "cheap" new one, for the latter may cause constant trouble, to say nothing of the possibility of serious accident.
The weight of an ordinary good-class ladies' machine should not be over 30-lbs. It is possible to obtain them fully equipped at about 28-lbs., but to get them at this or less either the weight of the tyres, etc., have to be very much reduced, or the fittings are not efficient. If the tyres are very thin and light they will be constantly puncturing. The gear case too should be of sufficient stability, and the same remark applies to the dress-guards and mud-guards; in fact it is in the fittings that the weight of a cycle is found, the actual frame not weighing more than 5-lbs. as a rule. This is the reason why American machines are lighter than English, the simple explanation being that the former are fitted with the flimsiest of chain covers, mud-guard, brake work, etc., whilst the English-made cycle is properly equipped for use in all weathers.
The width of "tread" is important, as both for comfort and speed and also on the score of appearance, the rider's feet should not be wider apart than is absolutely necessary. A narrow "tread" is the sign of a well designed machine. To measure this, the distance should be ascertained between the inside faces of the two cranks, and this distance should not be above five inches.
The height of the pedals from the ground is a point which is never overlooked by a really good firm of cycle makers. It is desirable to get the pedals as near to the ground as possible for comfort in mounting and for ease of propulsion; but there is a limit, as if too low, the pedal would be likely to catch the ground when the machine leans over on a sharp corner. The consequence of this would be disastrous to the rider. There is also the lesser danger of the pedal striking a stone if too near the ground. The usual distance is about ten or ten-and-a-half inches from the centre of bracket-axle to the ground.
Suitable clothing is as necessary in cycling as in all other forms of exercise. Warmth with lightness are the things to be aimed at, while it is of the first necessity that there should be no pressure anywhere, from the crown of the head to the soles of the feet, to impede free circulation. Having said this, little more remains to add, as each rider will naturally have her own ideas as to the underclothing she prefers, and provided this is warm enough to guard the wearer against chills and sufficiently light to prevent it adding to her fatigue, I do not think it much signifies what she chooses. Silk or woollen knickerbockers of some dark colour should of course be worn, and these which should be cut fairly full must on no account be made of very heavy material, a warm flannel lining being sufficient in any case to give warmth.
A loosely-fitting bodice, or nicely-cut coat, according to the time of year, will be found suitable, and this brings me to the part of our attire about which there is a real difficulty, namely, a well cut skirt. Of all the many so-called cycling "skirts," there are but few really suitable for the purpose, for not only is it necessary they should be useful, but it is on the way they fall that the graceful or other appearance of the rider will greatly depend. A woman may sit well and pedal to perfection, but if she has a skirt that does not hang evenly and easily on each side of her saddle, and is of the right length, she will not look well in motion.
The great difficulty is of course to get the "hang" right beside the saddle, and to ensure the fulness keeping it its proper place, I have originated a method for my own skirts which I have found answer well. This is very simple, and consists of a V shaped piece of the material of which the skirt is made being firmly stitched on below the band at the back, to hold the pleats in place. With this, the fulness does not move too easily to one side, when the necessary touch to the skirt is made in mounting.
The skirt should be cut slightly longer behind than in front, as of course when the rider is in the saddle it will hang shorter than where it falls straight down. When the wearer is standing up, the skirt should come to within six inches of the ground in front. As regards width, it should not be too full, as nothing looks more ungraceful than a skirt which flies out on either side with every turn of the foot. At the same time it must be full enough to allow complete freedom of movement. About three-and-a-half yards is generally considered the right width. When having a skirt made from a new pattern, I should always insist on having it fitted when you are seated in the saddle, as only so can you tell how it will really answer.
For keeping the skirt from blowing up, I have found nothing better than to pass the feet through a strap of ¼-inch elastic, about nine inches in length, laid flat against the inside of the hem. These straps should be placed about ten inches on either side of the middle of front of skirt, so as to enable you to walk without inconvenience.
As a material, a light woollen cloth of dark and unobtrusive colour is in my opinion the most suitable.
For riding you should have a hat that will not catch the wind, and as shade for a part of the year is desirable, you will find nothing better than a "sailor" as a fitting accompaniment to a sensible and workmanlike dress. A common mistake is to have a heavy hat with a great deal of trimming, which cannot be comfortable during rapid motion through any but the stillest of atmospheres.
As to foot-gear, a low-heeled flexible waisted shoe is to be recommended, with gaiters for winter wear.
An important matter for all and especially for the delicate in health, who may so often derive benefit from cycling, is to guard against a chill after riding. No time should be lost after reaching home, before putting on a complete set of dry underclothing. It is by standing about, perhaps out of doors or in a draught, till the warm glow which was upon you when you stepped off your machine has given place to a shivery feeling, that you will get harm instead of good from your pleasant spin, whereas a warm bath and a fresh set of clothing, and not even the most delicate need suffer from her exertions. If you should for any reason not find this possible without a certain delay, then put on a warm coat or other wrap immediately, and this will generally prevent you from suffering any ill effects.
You should always have your cycle dusted over and any mud carefully wiped off, directly you return from a ride. To prevent damage to the enamel, the mud should be wiped very gently with a soft wet cloth, and if this is carefully done it does not matter whether the mud has dried or not. The bright parts should be rubbed with a soft leather or "selvyt," and then a Holland cover be thrown over the machine, to keep it free from dust or any slight damp. With the exception of a rub with the "selvyt" the cycle will then be ready for use. If a slight application of a good furniture cream is made to the enamelled parts, it will brighten them considerably. When it is known that the machine will not be required for any length of time, all the bright parts should be smeared with Vaseline, and the machine itself should be stood in a dry place. It is best to rest it on a small stand, which is also very useful for cleaning purposes. After a long rest all the bearings should be well oiled, the lamp refilled, and the machine generally overhauled. The tyres should be kept hard. Some people let the air out when their machine is not in use, under the idea that it is good for the tyres, but this is a mistake. If the tyres are allowed to go flat, the weight of the machine will be likely to "nip" the inner tube. Above all, oil should be kept from the tyres, and if any should by chance drop on them while the machine is being oiled, it should be carefully wiped off. A tyre should not need blowing up, more than once in two or three weeks, if the valves are in good order. If, therefore, it should require inflating every day, as sometimes happens, either there is a small puncture, or the valve is out of order. If the trouble is caused by a puncture, it will generally mean a visit to the repairers, but first examine the valves in case these should be at fault, for very often a little attention to them will put matters right. As there are so many kinds of valves a technical illustration would be of little use, but as a rule all valves can be unscrewed and examined easily. In the valve most in use, viz.: that of the Dunlop tyre, if the end is unscrewed—after the dust cap is taken off—the whole mechanism of the valve can be taken out, and this will be found to consist only of a small cylinder covered by a little indiarubber tube. This piece of rubber covers the valve hole in the cylinder, and it is the rubber which generally wants replacing. The dust cap is the small cap, attached by a little chain to the spokes, and which is screwed over the end of the valve to keep the dirt out, after the tyre has been inflated.
If the rider does not object to a little trouble, a puncture can be repaired at home, though the chief objection to the operation is the dirty state in which it is apt to get the operator, unless indeed the tyres are thoroughly cleaned first. When you buy a machine, the exact details are given with each particular class of tyre, and general instructions for repairing will be found included in the repair-outfit, which can be purchased for about sixpence. This tyre-outfit consists of a small quantity of solution—which be careful not to get on the fingers—some rubber patches, and French chalk. When the inner tube has been taken off, the valve should be refitted to it, and the tubes inflated. Then pass the tube through water, using a shallow bowl for the purpose. From each spot where there is a puncture, little air bubbles will come out whilst the tube is under water. Mark these with a pencil, let the air out—by the valve—and dry the tube. Then with a piece of glass paper, clean the tube from sulphur—till the natural dark colour of the rubber appears—where the puncture is, say for a space as large as a sixpence. Put some solution thinly on the rubber patch, let it nearly dry, and then press it down on the tube, on the spot cleaned from sulphur, and hold it there for a minute or two. The puncture of course will be in the centre of this spot if you have managed properly. A little French chalk dusted over the patch will prevent any solution there may be round the patch, from sticking to the outer cover when the tyre is put together again.
With regard to the general adjustment of a cycle, it is most essential that all the bearing parts should be in proper order, as any one of them will make a very great difference in labour to the rider. A few brief notes on the principal parts will enable the rider to ascertain if her mount is in proper condition to do justice to her own riding powers. First the chain. This should be oiled occasionally in its whole length, so that each joint is properly lubricated. When it has been oiled along the top half, the wheels should be revolved sufficiently to bring the other half on top for oiling. The chain must not be too tight, or the machine will be hard to drive, neither must it be too loose, or accidents will occur. The state of the chain can be ascertained by taking hold of one pedal, whilst the machine is at rest with its weight on the ground. The pedal and crank should just show the slightest perceptible movement, without moving the machine, if the chain is in good order. The pedals should revolve twenty or thirty times at least, when given a good sharp spin with the hand, and there should be no perceptible shake in them. The steering is a very important point, as if this is stiff it will increase the labour in riding. If the front wheel is lifted from the ground, its own weight should make it drop over to one side or the other, which ever way the machine lies, else the steering is too stiff for easy riding. There should be no shake whatever in the steering, the front wheel, when tested, should be immoveable from the rest of the machine, either backwards or forwards. All the bearings require a moderate oiling for about every fifty miles you ride. Olive or other clear oil is used for lubricating the bearings, and on no account must paraffin or a similar oil be used, except for cleaning the bearings out. Most cycle depôts supply a suitable oil for lubricating. Once or twice in the year it is advisable to run paraffin through the bearings, but care must be taken to drain it all out afterwards, and the bearings should then be oiled with proper lubricant. Sperm or colza oil is good for burning in the lamp. Add a small piece of camphor to this to give a clearer light. A little paraffin may be put on the top of the wick at the burner, to make the lamp light easily, but if this is added to the burning oil, the lamp will smoke, and be liable to jolt out over rough places. If the machine is properly adjusted and well oiled, the wheels should—after being revolved—swing back and forth once or twice with their own weight. At the same time, no "shake" should be discernible sideways, but the wheels should appear to be a rigid part of the machine.
Lillian J. Hills.
A very useful aid to wheel-women is the Cyclists' Pocket Book. Most portable and well printed, it contains all kinds of useful information as to the obligations of cyclists, the care of the machine, and some most excellent and practical hints to those about to take a tour. A list of reliable cycle repairers, of hotels which cater for cyclists, besides an almanack and other items usually found in pocket books, are contained within its covers. As there are books which no gentleman's library should be without, so this is one of which no cyclist's pocket should be empty.
Fig. I
Fig. II
[FANCY FIGURES AND MUSICAL RIDES.]
The branch of Cycling familiarly known as "figure riding" is open to all, and there is no doubt that the short turns and rapid curves required are not only fascinating, but at the same time excellent practice. The control over the machine given by them will enable the rider to pick his or her way very exactly through the most difficult pathway. Some may laugh at the idea of "riding to music," but having once tried it you will find they are generally glad to do it again. The figures, varied as they are, and presenting almost endless possibilities, are intricate enough to give a beginner in this branch of the art, absorbing work, and even afterwards, when perfection has been attained, there will be found a charm in winding in and out in the execution of the figures, so long as everyone engaged in the ride keeps time. For it must not be forgotten that it is in the neatness and precision with which they are done that the fascination exists.
It was while staying at an hotel in the country that a rainy day drove me to the nearest Gymnasium to try Cycling for the first time. As it happened, the instructors were accustomed to put up clubs and teach their pupils to circle round them so as to ensure balance and absolute control over their machines. I believe it was by accident that they first tried riding to music, but once tried it was never abandoned, as it was found an enormous help in keeping a regular pace, and in enabling the leader to guide the ride more accurately. Nothing but a waltz, however, will be found suitable. In the summer, shortly after this, I first turned figure riding to account, as a means of amusing my guests, and I found it so popular that eventually I procured the services of an instructor, and we used to ride every afternoon.
It is surprising how many miles one goes, simply turning and twisting, and going over the same ground. With tea spread near by, and comfortably seated in easy chairs, placed so as to command a view of the riding, even the onlookers, I found, were well amused, and for those who wish to spend a delightful summer's afternoon in an exercise, combining sociability and amusement, I know of no better pastime than this.
There are a few simple rules to be attended to, which it may not be amiss for me to state, and then by the aid of some diagrams I hope to give the key to what may look difficult, though, in reality, it is easy enough.
1. In the first place either a Gymnasium or smooth lawn must be selected to ride on. In the latter case it will not hurt the grass, no matter what your gardener may say to the contrary, and if he will only water it and roll it daily, or even twice a day, you will have a delightful ground, and in the following year an even better grass crop than if it had not been so treated.
2. The lawn should be the size that is usually allotted to a full size Croquet lawn. However, there is no rule as to size, though with a greater number of riders, you will have to go over a larger space. I, therefore, recommend a fairly large ground, especially as after rain the grass is apt to become slippery, and even in those rides which are done by only four riders you will have to make larger circles to avoid accidents.
3. Never attempt to do the rides too quickly. Sacrifice speed to exactitude when necessary, and pay great attention to making all your turns simultaneously.
4. If a mistake is made in a figure, dismount and begin again. In some of the rides if one person makes an error, she can ride to the side and dismount, while the others continue, but in most cases this will put the ride out, and it is better for all to stop. In any case no one should ever try to cut in and resume her original place or join in a ride after it has begun.
When possible, it is best to have someone on foot who will give the word of command, for this is a great help, not only to the leaders but to all who are riding.
Before mounting or dismounting, have the order given to do so very distinctly, and make it a never-failing rule never to let the riders be taken by surprise. I think too, at a garden party, it is always a good plan to let all who are going to take part in the ride join in the first figure, as it will make them feel more interest in the proceedings, and give everyone time to become at ease on their bicycles. For this purpose I would suggest the "double snake" through clubs. (See Fig. 1.)
For this you will begin with "single snake," by riding once round the lawn. Be sure that everybody is in line when the word to mount is given; it creates confusion and leads to unnecessary collisions when several mount in a group. Of course the pace must be regulated by the leader. Starting at the corner below clubs C, this rider will go round outside the clubs, and having reached the point marked (*) will turn in and ride straight between clubs A, then going to the right between those marked B, and afterwards through C. At the same place the turn was made the first time it should be repeated, and having passed between A turn to the left through E and D. After repeating some four or five times begin the "double snake."
Up to this point all have followed one leader, now two will be required. Continue as before, but when leader No. 1, after passing through clubs A turns to the right to clubs C, leader No. 2 will turn to the left between E and D. The third rider will then follow No. 1 and the fourth No. 2, each keeping her original distance, for when leader No. 1, having passed clubs C turns through A again, No. 2 will fall in behind, and the same with all the others, each resuming her original place. The next time No. 1 will turn to the left, No. 2 to the right, each leader being followed by half the riders, dividing alternately. To finish the ride all will follow leader No. 1, and having again been the round of the lawn should dismount together. To add to the effect it is most important that this should be done in line and simultaneously. Although exceedingly easy, when done with care and in time with the music, this is a very pretty ride.
The next ride is commonly called "Centre Circles." This cannot be done by more than four. Each rider will start from her own corner, and while riding separately should remember that No. 1 always regulates the pace, and the others must keep in time with her. The proper distances should be kept in the ride round the ground, and then No. 1 having come abreast of club E, No. 2 abreast of club D, No. 3 with club C, and No. 4 with club B, at the word "circle" all will circle to the left, making a semi-circle, and when abreast of club A circling that fully, and branching off when No. 1 is again beside club C, which she encircles. Thus: As No. 1 goes round her club (E) the others will circle theirs, and as all are doing the same figure at the same time the four will meet in the centre circle (A), and when No. 1 turns off to circle club C, No. 4, who began by circling club B, will go to club D, and circle that, and No. 3 who began at Club C will go to club E (for her second circle), etc. This can be continued as long as desired, the riders No. 1 and No. 3 alternating between clubs C and E, and the other two taking clubs B and D. Each one, from her own starting point, does exactly the figure as drawn in Figure 2.
Fig. III
Cross bows.
Another ride, but requiring more accuracy in time-keeping, is that known as "cross bows," and this is one of the prettiest of all, for the whole of the lawn is occupied, and when done by practised riders and rather quickly, it is charming to watch and most fascinating to do. Again four riders are required, and they mount in line. The five clubs are in the same position as for Centre Circles. In this ride, however, there are two leaders, No. 1 being followed by rider No. 3, and No. 2 by rider No. 4. As in Figure 3, leader No. 1 will follow the dotted lines, while leader No. 2 will go over the heavy lines indicated; rider No. 3 following leader No. 1, and rider No. 4 following leader No. 2. It is imperative that the original distances be kept exactly, or in crossing at points F and G there will surely be a collision otherwise. This being a complicated ride to do well, it will require practice, but I think that by following the lines of the diagram there will be no difficulty in learning it. Leader No. 1 (having led the ride all round the lawn) on reaching club B will ride straight across to club D, keeping to the right of centre club A, and turning round club D will then ride straight back to club B again, followed by rider 3. At the same time leader 2, in starting the ride, will turn short to her left, going outside club E, where she begins the "cross bow," by riding straight across the lawn to club C. Leaders 1 and 2 should reach clubs D and E simultaneously and turn them together, and leader No. 1 making her curve closer to the club than No. 2, should pass the point F on the diagram just as No. 2 reaches it on her way to club C. In this way rider 3 will pass point F immediately after No. 2, and rider 4, following No. 2 will pass F a second after No. 3. Reaching B, leader 1 will now make the double curve round clubs B and E, as shown, and leader 2 will do the same between C and D, and on reaching B and C again, they will do once more the "cross bow" as described, only this time leader 1 will pass over point G first, and leader 2 will follow, as was done before in passing F. The greatest exactitude should be kept in crossing each other, for not only does safety demand it, but when done with indecision and over zig-zag lines, the figure loses its beauty, and like all the other rides, becomes difficult to follow. It is fatal to any ride to do it in a wavering way, which will impress people with the idea that you are not sure of it yourself. The best riders I have ever seen doing these figures, have always emphasized the straight lines, thus making their curves seem more sweeping by contrast, and adding greatly to the effect.
Another thing figure riders invariably advocate, is to ride very high, and certainly once any one has ridden with both handle-bars and seat well up, they never can go back to the lower saddle. Some people indeed say it is more difficult to ride high, but I do not think when you have become used to it, that you will find it so. Of all things to be avoided I would mention the mistake of putting up the handle bars, without heightening the saddle. I heard this position once described as that of "begging," and it has always seemed to me irresistibly ludicrous ever since. If you will watch the ankle play of two riders, one with the saddle high and the other with it low, you will not hesitate an instant as to which position is preferable.
There is no limit to the number of rides you can do. Almost any book of army drills, especially for cavalry, will give you ideas for a hundred new figures, and you can vary these, not the least amusing part being in creating, adapting and arranging figures to add to the old repertoire.
Fig. IV
American Circle ride.
But to go back to the well-known figures, with which one is never tired, and which always hold their own as to prettiness.
Let us continue with the "American Circle Ride." This can be ridden by any number and is a great favourite when introduced at garden-parties. With eight riders, three rows of three clubs each are needed, and these rows should be about three bicycle lengths from each other, while two bicycle lengths should separate the clubs in the rows. All the riders start in a line. On reaching line B, leader 1 goes to the left of Club 3, and No. 2 will keep to its right so that they ride side by side, divided by the clubs. The others divide in the same way and at the bottom they will turn to their respective sides, leader No. 1 following line A, and leader No. 2 line C. To begin with, they will both do the circles to the left as drawn down line C, and meeting at the top they again come down the centre on either side of Clubs B, side by side. The second time they both do the ride as shewn through line A, doing the middle club the reverse way to the first and last, and for the third round, reverting to the ride as shown through Clubs C, only of course, where those following leader 2 turn to the left, those following No. 1 will turn and circle to the right. In coming down the centre the leaders can join hands, and the others naturally will do the same, but this is generally called by another name, and is often worked as another figure.
Speaking of circling to left and right brings up another very pretty figure for a number of riders. Set your Clubs as for "Centre Circles" and begin (all following one leader) by circling Club B, going right round it as shown in Figure 2, and going on to E, then D, and finally to C, then describe the double curve as shown in 'cross bows' (between Clubs B and E of Figure 3) only ride straight round Club D—Figure 2. The Club marked E in the former, is D in Figure 2. Having gone round Club D, go on to Club E, and circle that to the right, and then on to B, and so circle every club as you come to it. Having circled D again, to finish the ride, go to Club C passing outside it, and then straight round the lawn. This can be done by two parties at the same time, one starting from Club B, the other from Club D, and each doing the same thing at opposite corner Clubs throughout the ride. I have seen as many as twenty riding in this figure together.
The "Maypole" is of course very pretty and when care is taken to ensure the riders having ribbons to match the colour they wear, or in which they have decked their bicycles, it is lovely. It is simple to execute, too, and can be done by almost any number, though I think eight or ten quite enough. Half the riders will go to the left, the other half to the right. Supposing the pole to be in the centre of the lawn, the four who are going to the right will mount at the four points of the compass, holding their ribbons high above them, in their right hands. The other four will mount, a little farther from the pole, as they will make a larger circle to begin with, and hold their ribbons in their left hands as they go to the left. In order to weave a regular pattern, those going to the left and right must pass each other in and out, as they meet. It is easier to learn the ride if Clubs are put up, where the riders should meet and pass each other, as they go in and out. There should be an even number of riders and a club for each. If eight were riding, four would pass the first club on the left and the next on their right, and so on, while the other half would pass their first Club on the right and the second club to the left. It will be found easier to keep your balance if you hold your arm high, and there is no doubt that it looks better.
The idea of passing clubs first on the right and then on the left alternately has been the foundation of a number of rides. A pretty sight is to have a circle of clubs, with a rider to each. One rider will begin by going outside the circle, from inside, and passing between the clubs at the same time that the next rider will pass from outside into the circle, and so picking their way to the left of one club and the right of the next, all the way round the ring. However, all depends on the riders passing the clubs at the same moment on their several ways, and as this requires no little practice to do well, one rarely sees this figure to advantage.
Fancy Figure Riding may sound tame to those who have never tried it, but I venture to think that those who once take to it will very quickly become fascinated, and my own belief is, that as figures become better known, and more hostesses introduce them at their gatherings, this branch of cycling will increase in popularity.
Evelyn Van Wart.
J. Weston and Son Folkestone.
MISS MAUD MARSHALL.
(Figure B. Overhand Service.)
[LAWN-TENNIS.]
Lawn-tennis, though still in its youth, may with some justice lay claim through its prototypes, Longue paume, Pallone, Tennis, etc., to an illustrious ancestry; the connection between the modern and the older games being sufficient to establish a relationship. It is not necessary here to trace this connection step by step, beginning perchance with the game which Louis X. of France played in the forest of Vincennes to the championship fought out on the Wimbledon Club grounds in 1897. The greater part of such a history would of necessity belong to tennis proper, which, as we know, has been a popular English game for many ages. So in the 15th century we hear of a tennis court at Windsor Castle, and the present one at Hampton Court was originally built by Henry VIII., in whose reign it was that Sir Thomas More, in his "Utopia," stigmatised tennis along with "dice, cards, tables, bowls and quoits" as "a naughty and unlawful game."
The first authentic record we have of lawn-tennis as we know it dates back no further than 1874, when Major Wingfield patented a certain pastime by him named "Sphairistike." It was not I believe claimed to be an invention, but merely an adaptation of a sport almost as old as the world itself. A sub-committee of the Marylebone Cricket Club was asked in 1875 to bring order into chaos, everyone for the twelve months of its existence having chosen to play "Sphairistike," or lawn-tennis, as it was now called, as it best pleased them. A code was drawn up, issued and quickly superseded, but at least there was a recognised length and breadth of court and height of net, which prior to this, as I have said, depended entirely upon the taste of the players. In 1875 lawn-tennis took up its headquarters at Wimbledon, being admitted to form part of the "All England Croquet Club" there. The game was introduced at Prince's Club in the same year. In 1876 tennis scoring was adopted, and it was the general opinion that lawn-tennis had come to stay. In the following year the "All England Croquet Club" determined to include the name of the new game in its title, and it became known as the "All England Croquet and Lawn-Tennis Club." In another twelve or eighteen months the visitor had pushed the host out of house and home, the club becoming henceforth headquarters of lawn-tennis alone.
It was in the July of 1877 that the first lawn-tennis championship meeting was held at Wimbledon, a silver challenge cup being offered for competition by the proprietors of The Field. There were twenty-two entries, Mr. Spencer-Gore carrying off the championship and the all-comers prizes. The principal results of the first tournament was to show up a serious defect, viz.: the great preponderance of games won by the server against those gained by the striker-out; the proportion being about five to three. This defect was remedied in 1878 by bringing the service line four feet nearer the net, from twenty-six feet to twenty-two feet. The net at the same time was lowered from five feet at the posts to four feet nine inches, and from three feet three inches at the centre to three feet. In 1879 two more championships were instituted, those of the Oxford University Lawn-Tennis Club, and of Ireland. The latter meeting was of particular importance to lady players, owing to the fact that it was their first competition ground. This pioneer of women's lawn-tennis championships was carried off by Miss M. Langrishe, who was also successful in securing the Irish prize in 1883 and 1886. The first occasion on which ladies competed at Wimbledon was in the year 1884, when Miss M. Watson secured the All England Championship, to which she joined the double victory of Ireland, where she defeated Miss M. Langrishe.
In 1885 the manager of the Buxton Tournament instituted a ladies' double championship, carried off by Mrs. Watts and Miss Bracewell. The championship of England and Ireland was again held by Miss M. Watson. It was during this year that Miss L. Dod first began to be known in the front ranks of lady players, though it was not until 1887 that she held the championship of England and Ireland, since when she has held the English Championship four times. In 1886 Miss Bingley, now Mrs. Hillyard, shot to the fore, defeating Miss Watson at Wimbledon. Her victory, though coming as something of a surprise, was magnificently earned, her extreme accuracy and power creating a good deal of enthusiasm.
The next epoch of importance in ladies' tennis—and the last possible variation of the game—was the institution, in 1888, of the "All England Mixed Doubles Championship," won by Mr. E. Renshaw and Mrs. Hillyard. During the same year the "Lawn-Tennis Association" came into existence, the want having for long been felt of one recognised authority, under whose rules all championship matches should be played. In 1890, the Association made important alterations in some of the previously recognised laws. The change of sides under the new regime was fixed at the end of the first, third and every alternate game of the set, instead of at the end of each game. Bisques were abolished, and the quarter system of receiving odds was instituted, more of which hereafter. Subsequently the distance of the service line from the net was fixed at 21-ft., and the height of the net at 3-ft. 6-in. at the posts, and 3-ft. at the centre.
The strides made in lawn-tennis since its first institution as a game are remarkable indeed, when we consider that the first and only tournament in the land was held in 1877, and that in 1897, the list of tournament dates issued by the Lawn-Tennis Association comprised sixty-two fixtures in the United Kingdom, and seven on the Continent. I must not forget to add that in 1885, the first Covered Court Championship was held, Mr. Lawford carrying off the prize. The Ladies' Covered Court Championship was not inaugurated till 1890, when Miss Jacks secured the coveted title, Miss Austin being the holder in 1897.
The Ladies' Championship of 1897, was very closely contested, Mrs. Hillyard playing Miss C. Cooper (the holder). The first set was won by the latter lady, but owing to the severity of Mrs. Hillyard's returns, Miss Cooper was unable to maintain her advantage and was finally beaten, the sets standing at 5-7, 7-5, 6-2. Mrs. Hillyard also carried off the Ladies' Singles, defeating Mrs. Pickering by two sets to love—6-2, 7-5. The Irish Championship was also gained by the Wimbledon victor, who beat the Irish candidate, Miss Dyas, by two sets to one—7-5, 2-6, 6-3,—thus proving herself the best lady player of the year.
With many lawn-tennis players the choice of a court is unfortunately apt to exemplify the old saying that "the coat must be cut according to the cloth," though in these days of plenty when every town in the United Kingdom possesses at least one lawn-tennis club, it should not be so difficult to secure the best advantages for practice. It is a different matter of course with a private court, the formation of which may, for many reasons be a difficult task; though the advantages of a ground upon the premises is too obvious to need demonstration. In the first place the court should be chosen lengthways from N. to S., to provide for obtaining the best possible light; secondly, if the process of levelling cannot be indulged in, let the ground chosen be at least as level as possible; and thirdly, let my foregoing remark apply equally to drainage. The absence of any obstacles such as overhanging branches, or the too close proximity of shrubs, is also to be carefully thought of, and avoided. An ample margin all round being allowed for, according to the first "recommendation" in the handbook of the Lawn-Tennis Association. "There should be, if possible, a clear margin of at least 12-ft. on each side, and 21-ft. at each end of the court."
The preparation of the court should be, as far as possible, the player's individual care. Even when the turf is coarse or weed grown to begin with, the careful application of a mowing machine, a roller and a knife, will soon work wonders. Should plantains prevail, cut them off close to the soil, whenever they appear—I have known a promising court spoilt by an attempt to dig these weeds out, root and all, with the result that when play commenced, the balls shot at obtuse and unexpected angles. The mowing machine and the roller must be kept in constant use, the former should do its work every day if necessary, after the grass has finished growing, during the process once a week will be sufficient—this, perhaps, is more applicable when grass has been sown. Old turf should never be allowed to look even slightly ragged. The energetic use of a roller helps the grass roots to spread out and obtain the mastery over the decapitated weeds.
I quote from the Lawn-Tennis Association handbook for the dimensions of the court.
Law 1. "For the single-handed game, the court is 27-ft. in width, and 78-ft. in length. It is divided across the middle with a net, the ends of which are attached to two posts, which stand 3-ft. outside the court on each side. The height of the net is 3-ft. 6-in. at the posts, and 3-ft. at the centre. At each end of the court, parallel with the net, and at a distance of 39-ft. from it, are drawn the base-lines, the extremities of which are connected by the side-lines. Half-way between the side-lines and parallel with them, is drawn the half-court-line, dividing the space on each side of the net into two equal parts, and called the right and left courts. On each side of the net, at a distance of 21-ft. from it, and parallel with it, are drawn the service-lines."
Single Court.
78 feet.
Double Court.
When a double court is required, the base-lines must be prolonged 4-ft. 6-in. in each direction, when by joining the four new points, the side-lines of a double court are obtained; it will not now be necessary to prolong the inner side-lines further than the service lines.
The measuring of a court is always apt to be tedious work, but with a little method, a measuring tape, a reel of stout string, some small wooden pegs and a fair supply of patience, the difficulties are soon overcome. The first necessity is to fix the posts in position—I have always found it simplified matters to represent the net by a piece of string from post to post—then measure off a distance of 3-ft. from each, inwards of course. From the point now obtained, measure the side-lines, 78-ft. which gives us 39-ft. each way from the posts. From the side-lines now measure 4½-ft. inwards, and 21-ft. each way from the net string for the service-lines. It now only remains for these lines to be joined along their base by four others running parallel with the net, two on each side of it, respectively termed the base-lines and the service-lines. Half-way between the service-lines and parallel with the side-lines, a line is next drawn to form the half-court-line, which accomplishes the task. Each point as it is measured should be marked off with a peg; then when all the dimensions are taken, a piece of string should be pulled taut from peg to peg, serving as guide to the marker. As a last word on the subject, I may say that I have never heard a low price in markers, nets, posts, or indeed in any implement of the game, recommended as being really economical.
As to balls they can be obtained in many makes, but "Ayre's Championship" stand first in the list of excellence. By the laws of the Lawn Tennis Association the weight of a ball shall be not less than 1-1/8-oz., or more than 2-oz. In 1877, the year of the first Championship, the minimum weight was 1¼-oz., and the maximum 1½-oz.
The Racket. On the fortunate choice of a racket, depends literally at least half the success or failure of any battle fought with it. Writing of rackets, Mr. C. A. Heathcote says: "The essential points are—a good hoop, free from knots, with a well-marked and continuous grain, plain wooden handle, round or slightly octagonal, fitting the hand of the player, attached to the middle piece without any perceptible interval, and good strong gut."[7] It is an essential point that the racket should not be too heavy; on the other hand an over-light racket is far from desirable, except perhaps for a volleying game. From 12 to 13-oz. is usually considered a good weight range for a lady's racket, though I have frequently met with ladies who never touched anything under 14-oz. Indeed, in a matter of this sort, the choice must rest very much with the player herself, who will soon find from experience what weight suits her best. And so long as she confines her selection to the first makes, she cannot go very far wrong.
Scoring. The only satisfactory manner in which lawn-tennis scoring can be dealt with on paper, is by quoting once more from the laws of the Lawn-Tennis Association, thus:
Law 21. On either player winning his first stroke, the score is called 15 for that player, on either player winning his second stroke, the score is called 30 for that player; on either player winning his third stroke, the score is called 40 for that player; and the fourth stroke won by either player is scored game for that player, except as below:
If both players have won three strokes, the score is called deuce, and the next stroke won by either player is called advantage for that player. If the same player win the next stroke, he wins the game; if he lose the next stroke the score is again called deuce, and so on until either player win the two strokes immediately following the score at deuce, when the game is scored for that player.
Law 22. The player who first wins six games wins a set, except as below:
If both players win five games, the score is called games-all, and the next game won by either player is scored advantage-game for that player. If the same player win the next game, he wins the set; if he lose the next game, the score is again called games-all; and so on until either player wins the two games immediately following the score of games-all, when he wins the set.
Note. Players may agree not to play advantage sets, but to decide the set by one game after arriving at the score of games-all.
Odds. In the year 1888, bisques—which had been borrowed from tennis—were abolished. A bisque is one stroke which may be claimed at any time during a set. The principal disadvantage of this system lay in the difficulty of employing it judiciously, thereby causing a certain mental strain, possibly injurious to the player's form. The bisque gave place to the "quarter" and the "perfect" systems, which in their turn were superseded by the "sixth system" in 1894, now in universal use. Roughly, the sixth system of handicapping is to receive odds of one, two, three, four, or five strokes in every six games of a set; each given stroke being respectively described as one-sixth, two-sixths, three-sixths, four-sixths, five-sixths, fifteen. For complete and detailed tables of the system of handicapping, the reader is referred to the handbook of the Lawn-Tennis Association.
On the subject of suitable clothing much might be written. For any form of outdoor exercise, the two chief requisites of costume are warmth and lightness. A thin flannel shirt is more useful than anything, worn with a short light skirt. I have seen such terrible and distressing results arise from the wearing of skirts which, though short in front, dropped at the back that I cannot too strongly emphasise the need for all-round shortness; loss of temper and dignity being among the lesser evils accruing from neglect of this particular. The shoes worn should be strong and serviceable, usefulness never being allowed to give way to the merely ornamental; but now-a-days it is an easy matter to combine the two qualities. For play in damp weather it is permissible to wear shoes with a leather sole into which short nails, known as steel points, are fitted. These are allowed on all grounds. In the matter of hats a straw sailor with a widish brim is the most workmanlike form of head gear possible. It is perhaps scarcely necessary to add that perfect looseness of every garment is a sine quâ non for the freedom of movement necessary in lawn-tennis.
Figure A.
UNDER-HAND SERVICE.
Good form is as much an essential in the pursuit of any sport or pastime as it is in the manners and usages of polite society, and the cultivation of style is not an achievement purely confined to the wayfarer in the paths of literature. In lawn-tennis, as in everything else, a good beginning makes a good noontide; and really, when one comes to think about it, it is as easy to learn well as badly. Therefore it is never advisable for a beginner to be content with another beginner as her opponent. No doubt a certain diffidence may be felt by the inexperienced player in throwing down the gauntlet to a more practised hand, because of the lack of interest and excitement for the latter in the game. But this consideration should never be allowed to deter the seizing of an opportunity of playing against an opponent from whom something may be learnt. There are plenty of good-natured people in the world, and an ounce of practical demonstration, is worth a ton's weight of written explanation as to the different actions necessary for playing the varied strokes, which go to compose the game of lawn-tennis.
Service. Like everything else worth having, a good service is extremely difficult to acquire. It is always best to ascertain by experiment and observation what particular style of service would seem most within one's power of attainment, and this style should be kept to. There is nothing more detrimental to good play than indecision or constant change of form. Experiments, though doubtless necessary at first, should be discontinued as soon as possible.
The majority of ladies, for a variety of reasons, prefer to serve underhand. Miss L. Dod, in her able contribution in the Badminton Library, is of the opinion that unless in exceptional cases, overhand service tends merely to a waste of strength without making the stroke more difficult to take than the ordinary underhand service.[8] In the face of such competent authority it would be fatuous to advance a contrary opinion; but if any special aptitude is felt for the overhand service, it will probably be found easier to practice with success than the underhand.
The server should stand either in the middle of the base-line, or a few feet to the right or left of it, though she is at liberty to take up any position on the base-line that she chooses. According to Law 7 of the game: "The server should stand with one foot beyond—i.e., further from the net than—the base-line, and with the other foot upon the base-line, and shall deliver the service from the right and left courts alternately, beginning from the right. This law is of great importance and should never, even in the most ordinary play, be disregarded. For the underhand service, the body should be slightly bent and the racket swung well up. I have seen the swing carried high above the right shoulder, the ball being dropped in front of the racket as it arrives near the middle of the downward stroke (Fig. A). In the overhand service, the body should be inclined somewhat backward, and the racket brought well above the head (as in Fig. B) to obtain the utmost possible reach. The ball is held somewhat below the level of the left shoulder, and thrown gently in front of the descending racket. Before a great degree of swiftness is attempted in either of these two services, accuracy should be ensured. In fact a well-known saying might be profitably adapted for the use of lawn-tennis players, both proficient and non-proficient: "Take care of accuracy, and brilliancy will take care of itself."
For the purpose of training the eye, it is no bad device to place a ball on the spot where the service is intended to drop and take aim at it. The satisfaction of hitting the mark will not be frequent, but the practice will at least impart some idea of locality. In service when one fault has already been made, it is wonderfully easy to drop into the bad habit of sending an easy catch to represent the second stroke; neither is this reprehensible custom entirely confined to beginners who might, perhaps, be excused for exercising a certain amount of caution over their last chance. Over and over again I have seen ladies, who did not by any means count themselves tyros, indulging in this defective style of play. They appear to think that one ball either "smashed" into the net, or sent a dozen yards out of court absolves them from further effort; their second stroke being as harmfully innocuous as their first was mistakenly vicious. And in this case again, nothing but practice will give equality. To obtain a twist the ball should be struck first with the left side of the racket—which will be held in a more horizontal position than for the regular forward stroke—and as it were run across its face, or in other words the racket is twisted round the ball from right to left.
To receive a service the striker-out should, generally speaking, stand near the base-line, opposite the centre of the service court, a position which commands either a fore or back-handed stroke. Of course her position must naturally depend upon the style of service given, and here again, nothing but experience will impart the intuitive consciousness of the exact spot on which the ball is likely to drop. Through excess of zeal and over anxiety to make a correct return, the non-proficient player will nearly always commit the error of rushing at her stroke and hitting the ball while it is yet rising, instead of waiting to catch it in the fall and lift it with a nearly vertical racket over the net. The ball should so to speak be allowed to meet the player half way for an ordinary stroke. Of course in the case of a cut or a screw, which may bound backwards instead of forwards, it is advisable to approach the stroke more closely, but even in such a case it is better to wait and see the angle of rising before striking. Any undue hurry will cause the ball to perform the feat known as "going through the racket." For the fore-handed stroke, the racket should be held in a firm grasp (as in Fig. C), great care being taken that the position of the fingers is correct from the first, the ball being struck with a full racket. For the back-handed stroke, the grip is changed (see Fig. D). This change may at first appear a serious difficulty, but after a little practice at fore and back-handed strokes alternately, the change will become both unconscious and mechanical.
The back-handed stroke is a weak point with many players, for which reason extra attention should be bestowed upon its cultivation. Any attempt to run round the ball, or to take it "with both hands," should from the first be severely discouraged. Practising for the back-handed stroke against a blank wall is advised by many competent authorities as a useful means of overcoming preliminary awkwardness.
Figure C.
FORE-HANDED STROKE.
The position of the feet and body in lawn-tennis is of the utmost importance. The player should await her stroke standing facing the net with the feet a little apart, and the weight of the body resting on the toes. In the case of a fore-hand stroke the left foot should be brought quickly across the right, by way of turning the body sideways, while the racket is swung back in readiness to receive the stroke. When the ball is struck, the weight of the body is shifted from the right foot to the left. For a back-handed stroke the right foot is brought across the left, and whilst striking the weight is shifted from the left foot to the right. The Volley has ever been a subject of controversy in lawn-tennis annals. We all know what an instrument of defence the stroke became off the rackets of the Messrs. Renshaw; but at present we are considering lawn-tennis from a woman's point of view, which is a very different thing. The ordinary variety of the volley is employed to save change of position necessary in taking a ball off the ground. This stroke resembles a "lob," and should be so placed as to obviate the chance of punishment. The volley from the net is an overhand stroke and may be played with either a bent or extended arm, according to the force employed. The latter variety, known as the "smash," is given with an uncontrolled swing of the racket. In the former stroke, where the force used is not so great, an excellent effect may be obtained by a quick turn of the wrist, either to right or left, at the moment of striking the ball, causing it to drop near the base of the side line. The volley from the service line is played with a horizontal racket, which may be held either below the bend of the shoulder, or almost close to the ground, when the player is obliged to stoop for the purpose of "lifting" the ball over the net.
The half volley is a stroke as difficult to attain as to describe. Briefly it consists in blocking the ball—roughly speaking—within the first half-foot of its rise from the drop. The difficulty of the stroke lies in estimating correctly the exact spot on which the ball will drop, and in having the racket ready just behind that spot. The stroke is chiefly used in cases where retreat is impossible, or at least likely to be attended with ill-success, and when the reach is too short for a volley; but it is a stroke which should be indulged in with caution, as, unless in the case of exceptionally good players, it is likely to prove a dismal failure. That it can generally be dispensed with by either a step forward, or a few steps back is consoling to the medium performer.
Figure D.
BACK-HANDED STROKE.
The "Lob" claims Mr. Haslow as its discoverer. This gentleman, chiefly owing to the agency of the stroke, succeeded in defeating the champion, Mr. Spencer-Gore, who first practised volleying tactics, in 1878. The "lob" is a useful invention against net play, being merely a stroke lifted high over the opponent's head, thus preventing a volleying return. The counter tactics to this stroke are technically known as the "smash," to which reference has already been made, and the "lob volley." The former of these two strokes consists in getting the racket—either by reach or springing into the air—above the ball and smashing it with all the strength at the player's command, to the confusion of the opponent, and the alarm and consternation of the bye-standers. The "lob" volley consists in catching the dropping ball with a vertical drive similar to the ordinary forward drive played off the ground.
Lady players will, as a general rule, find the back game quite as effective, and a good deal more graceful than forward or volleying tactics, which owing to various circumstances, such as the necessity for extra reach and freedom of movement—are more suited to a man's play than a woman's. The back game with the aid of judicious "placing" will always prove hard to beat, a few well-worn maxims for its successful issue being: to hit as hard, and to keep the ball as low as possible. Neither to court nor to avoid volleying, but to take it as it comes. To thoroughly master the art of "placing." Never to relax good style by slovenly play, and finally to follow in all cases the advice of a well-known authority, "To start at once, to arrive in time, and never to be in a hurry."
M. Marshall.