PRESERVATION OF FOOD.
THE various organic substances furnished by the animal and vegetable kingdoms, which constitute the food of man, are, from the nature of their chemical structure, liable to change and decay; they are also irregular in their supply; hence arises the necessity of storing up the abundance of one season to meet the deficiencies of another. The art of preserving food as much as possible in its original state is therefore of great importance; it has been improved by gradual steps, depending, in great measure, as in so many other cases, on chemical discovery and the diffusion of chemical knowledge among persons engaged in the useful arts; so that, at the present time, the deprivations suffered by our forefathers may be prevented; the commonest articles of food may be enjoyed at all seasons; and even the delicious fruits of our gardens may be made to contribute to our health and refreshment at a season when the trees which produced them are covered with snow. The mariner, too, is not now necessarily confined to salt meats; he may, on the longest voyage, and in the severest clime, as easily enjoy fresh meat and vegetables as when he is in port.
The necessity for adopting means for the preservation of articles of food arises from the complicated structure of organic compounds, and their tendency to resolve themselves into simpler or inorganic compounds. Although the comprehensive history of the animal and vegetable kingdoms is written with a very brief alphabet; although the elements which enter into the composition of organic bodies are only carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen—often, but not always, nitrogen—and occasionally minute portions of sulphur and phosphorus; yet their extraordinary powers of combination are such that there appears to be no limit to the number of definite substances which they are capable of producing, each substance having a character peculiar to itself, and often a crystalline form. It is very different with the fifty-eight other members of the list of elements; the compounds which they assist in forming are inorganic, and they are formed by the union of pairs of elements, or pairs of binary compounds.
It is a consequence of this complicated structure that organic compounds are unstable in their character, and liable to decomposition, or, in other words, to resolve themselves into simpler compounds. An inorganic substance, on the contrary, however complex its formula may appear, is actually built up of binary compounds, the simplest that can be formed. But in the organic substance the carbon and hydrogen have a strong tendency to form carbonic acid; the hydrogen and oxygen to form water; the hydrogen and nitrogen to form ammonia; or, the hydrogen and the sulphur to form sulphuretted hydrogen, &c. In popular language, these changes are expressed by such terms as decay and putrefaction. Liebig, however, has given precision to them by limiting the term decay to the decomposition of moist organic matter freely exposed to the air, the oxygen of which gradually burns and destroys it without sensible elevation of temperature.[1] The term putrefaction is limited to changes which occur in and beneath the surface of water, the effect being a mere transposition of elements or metamorphosis of the organic body.[2] The conversion of sugar into alcohol and carbonic acid is a simple illustration of the term. The contact of oxygen is, however, first necessary to the change, which, when once begun, is continued without the aid of any other external substance, except perhaps water, or its elements. Every instance of putrefaction begins with decay; and if the decay, or its cause, viz., the absorption of oxygen, be prevented, no putrefaction occurs. In short, if the access of oxygen be prevented, there is no decay; if the access of water be prevented, there is no putrefaction. The exclusion of air and moisture forms the basis of some of the best methods of preserving food.
There are certain substances named Antiseptics (from ἀντὶ, against, and σήπομαι, to putrefy), from their property (exerted, however, very unequally) of preventing the putrefaction of organic substances. Thus, alcohol, and common salt in certain proportions, check all putrefaction and all the processes of fermentation by depriving the putrefying body of water. Nitre, vinegar, spices, and sugar are also antiseptics. The antiseptic effect of a very low temperature is caused by the solidification of the water and other juices, which, in their usual fluid state, allow the molecules to move freely on one another.
We will first notice the various methods of preserving animal food. These are: 1, by drying; 2, by cold; 3, by salting and by sugar; 4, by smoking; 5, by vinegar; 6, by parboiling and excluding air; 7, by potting; 8, by alcohol.
1. A familiar example of the first method is afforded in common glue, which in its hard and dry state may be kept for any length of time. So also may white of egg, if prepared by pouring the white of a number of eggs into a large flat dish, and exposing this for twelve or fourteen hours to heat in front of the fire. As the water evaporates, the albumen forms into a yellow, transparent, hard, shining, brittle mass, which scales off at the least touch—a test that it is properly done. These two substances, gelatine and albumen, are two of the constituents of flesh; fibrin or fleshy fibre, which is the third, dries equally well, and is not liable to putrefaction in that state. Gelatine, after being dried, may be softened by the action of hot water. Albumen coagulated by heat cannot be softened again by water; but if dried at about 140° without being coagulated, it may be dissolved in cold water, retaining all its valuable properties. Hence, in preserving meat by drying, too high a temperature must be carefully avoided, or the albumen will become coagulated, and the meat be made insoluble.
The dried flesh of the bison, of the buffalo, and of the deer, forms pemmican, the preparation of which is thus described in Captain Back's Journal:—
"While meat remains in a thick piece, it is impossible to get the middle dried before putrefaction commences; but if the meat be cut into slices, its desiccation may be easily effected. The fleshy parts of the hind quarters are cut into very thin slices, dried in the sun, or before the fire, and pounded. Two parts of the pounded meat are then mixed with one of melted fat, and packed into a bag formed of the hide of the animal. A bag weighing ninety pounds is called a taureau by the Canadian voyageurs; and, in fact, only one bag of pemmican is generally made from each bison cow. Two pounds of this kind of food are sufficient for the daily support of a laboring man; though, when the voyageurs first commence upon pemmican, they each consume three pounds or more. In the spring, they generally boil the young shoots of Epilobium angustifolium with it, and some Scotchmen in the service of the Hudson's Bay Company add flour or oatmeal, thus rendering it more palatable. The best pemmican is made of finely-pounded meat mixed with marrow, and further improved by the addition of dried berries or currants. If kept from the air, it may be preserved sound for several years, and being very portable, it might be used with great advantage in provisioning troops that have to make forced marches. It may be eaten raw, or mixed with a little water and boiled; and although not much relished by those who taste it for the first time, the voyageur, with the single addition of the luxury of tea, requires nothing else for breakfast, dinner, and supper."
In the West Indies, and in South America, jerked beef is prepared by cutting the meat into slices, dipping them into sea-water or brine, and then drying them in the sun. The flesh of wild cattle is thus preserved at Buenos Ayres. Sometimes this dried meat is pounded in a mortar, into a uniform paste, which is pressed into jars, and if intended to supply the wants of the traveller, it is beaten up with maize meal and packed closely in leather bags. It is eaten in this state without further cooking. Drying meat in the air is said, however, to injure its flavor, and to dissipate a great portion of the nutritious juices.
Some kinds of fish are preserved by slitting them down the middle, and drying them in the air to evaporate the moisture. Small cod, haddock, and stock fish, prepared in this way, will, if kept dry, remain good for a great length of time.
Portable soup is prepared by processes similar to those used in the manufacture of glue. The gelatine of meat is dissolved by boiling water, and the water being evaporated, the gelatine is left in a solid state. Any fresh lean meat, with the fat cut away, will answer the purpose. Bones are also used for the purpose, the gelatine being extracted by means of a digester. In the French manufacture of gelatine brut fin, one hundred pounds of bones yield about twenty-five of gelatine, which is dried, cut up into dice, and used for making soup.
2. The effect of cold in the preservation of animal substances received a remarkable illustration in the discovery made by Pallas, in the year 1779, on the shores of the Frozen Ocean, near the mouth of the river Lena, of an animal of immense size, imbedded in ice, which, as it melted gradually, exposed it to the air and furnished food for the hungry wolves and other animals of those regions. It was the opinion of Cuvier that this animal differed from every known species of elephant, and was antediluvian, preserved from the remote period of the deluge in the mass of ice which enveloped it. Some of the hair of this animal may be seen in the museum of the Royal College of Surgeons, in Lincoln's Inn Fields, England.
In Russia, Canada, Hudson's Bay, and other countries where the frost is sufficiently steady, meat preserved in this way is a common article of commerce. Travellers speak with admiration of the frozen markets of Russia, supplied as they are from distant places with provisions solidified by the cold. Thus, in the market at Petersburg, Mr. Kohl noticed partridges from Saratoff, swans from Finland, heathcocks and grouse from Livonia and Esthuria, while the wide Steppes furnished the trapp-geese which flutter over their endless plains, where the Cossack hunts them on horseback, and kills them with his formidable whip. All these birds, as soon as the life-blood has flown, are apparently converted into stone by the frost, and, packed in huge chests, are sent for sale to the capital. So rapid are the effects of frost in that country, that the snow-white hares, which are brought in sledge-loads to the market, are usually frozen in the attitude of flight, with their ears pointed and their legs stretched out, just as they were at the moment of death. Another curious sight in these markets is a frozen reindeer, its knees doubled under its body, its hairy snout stretched forth upon the ground, and its antlers rising majestically in the air; or a mighty elk, disappearing piece by piece, as the action of the saw and the axe separates it for distribution among the several customers.
When provisions have been frozen, great care is required in thawing them; for, if this be done suddenly, putrefaction soon sets in, and although cooked immediately, they are hard and deficient in flavor. They must be thawed by immersion in cold water.
The London markets are supplied with salmon packed in ice from many of the northern rivers that flow to the eastern coasts of Britain. Every salmon fishery is now provided with an ice-house, and a stock of ice collected during the winter. The salmon is packed in large oblong wooden boxes, with pounded ice between, and the fish is received in London as fresh as when it was taken out of the water. It is not, however, frozen. Most fishmongers are furnished with ice-houses or cellars for the preservation of their fish in tubs of ice; and we do not see why English butchers should not be provided with larders cooled by the same means. In many parts of the United States every housekeeper has a small ice-safe, in which, through the warm season, all kinds of perishable provisions are kept. Public ice-houses are also maintained by the butchers, so that, under the burning climate of South Carolina, there is less loss in the way of butcher's meat, fish, game, &c., than in the comparatively temperate summer of London. The meat is sent to the ice-house, near the market, every evening, and is cooled down to near the freezing-point during the night; when exposed on the stalls next day, it retains its low temperature for a long time. Such a plan, adopted in London, would prevent the immense waste of meat during every summer, which is said to amount to at least two thousand tons in London alone. It is true that, when meat has been once frozen, its flavor is injured, but the reduction of meat to 32° or thereabouts, and the solidification of its juices, are very different things; and it would be easy to regulate the temperature within a range of several degrees.
3. Various kinds of salt are used in the preservation of food. Saltpetre and sal prunella (which is saltpetre deprived of its water of crystallization by heat) are also used for the purpose. The action of these alkaline salts upon animal substances is, as already noticed, to abstract the water in the juices of the meat, and, being dissolved therein, the salts enter the pores of the animal substance; the albumen of the meat, which is more liable to putrefaction than the gelatine and fibrine, is thus rendered less so. There are two methods of salting, dry salting and pickling. In dry salting, the meat is packed in dry salt, or in some cases the surface is rubbed all over with salt. In pickling, the meat is kept immersed in a solution (sometimes saturated) of common salt dissolved in water. This method does not render the meat so salt as dry rubbing, and is probably less injurious to its nutritious qualities, but it will not keep the meat so well. Bacon is cured by salting and drying, for which latter purpose it is often hung up in the wide chimneys of farm-house kitchens; cod is also salted and dried for the large demand of the Peninsula; in England, it is used in a green state; that is, instead of being split quite open, it is only opened down to the navel, then salted, and laid in brine or strong pickle, and put into casks without drying. Haddock, cod, or ling, are cured by splitting the fish and removing the backbone; they are then salted for two or three days, with equal parts of salt and sugar, or with salt alone; they are next stretched on sticks, and laid on the beach to dry in the sun, or they are arranged on stages, or hung up in an inclosed space warmed by a stove. Herrings are salted, or pickled, and smoked.
Sugar, like salt, takes away the water from animal substances, and thus prevents putrefaction. By immersing meat in molasses, it has been preserved fresh for months. Fish is sometimes preserved by cutting it open, rubbing in sugar, and leaving it for a few days; it is then dried in the air, taking care to turn it frequently. For a salmon of six pounds weight, a table-spoonful of brown sugar is sufficient; but, if hardness be required, a teaspoonful of saltpetre is to be added.
4. The efficacy of smoking, or smoke-drying, arises not only from the heat of the smoke, but from certain chemical products disengaged during the combustion of the wood fuel used for the purpose. Pyroligneous acid vapor and creasote are both produced, and the latter substance possesses the remarkable property of coagulating albumen. Hence, those chimneys only are fit for the purpose where the fire below is wood or peat, not coal. The kind of wood burnt is also of importance, the smoke from beech and oak being preferable to that from fir or larch. Smoke from the twigs of juniper, rosemary, peppermint, &c., impart to the meat a portion of their aromatic flavor. Westphalia hams owe some of their excellence to being smoked by juniper. Slow smoking is preferable to rapid, as it penetrates completely into the interior of the meat. In some parts of the country, the drying and smoking of hams are a separate trade. In such cases, a smoking-house or hut is erected, about twelve feet square, and the walls seven feet high, with a hole in the roof; joists are laid across inside, to hang the flitches on, and the floor is covered five or six inches deep with sawdust, which, being kindled, produces much smoke and little flame.
5. Vinegar and some other acids preserve both animal and vegetable substances by coagulating their albumen, which, as already stated, is peculiarly liable to putrefactive fermentation.
6. In the year 1810, M. Appert received a reward of 12,000 francs from the French Government for his method of parboiling provisions, and inclosing them in earthenware vessels in such a manner as to exclude the air. Many vegetables, fruits, &c., can be kept fresh for a great length of time, by shutting them up closely in a vessel, having previously filled up the interstices with sand or other loose substance that will exclude nearly all the air. Fresh walnuts may be preserved in this way in a jar, packed with sand and closely covered over; grapes packed in sawdust are imported into this country. Meat cannot be preserved in this way, but by exposing it to the heat of boiling water, the albumen, in which putrefaction first commences, coagulates; and as coagulated albumen is somewhat slow in decomposing, we thus have a reason for the common observation that cooked meat will keep longer than raw. It will not, however, keep many days, unless the air be perfectly excluded, not only from the external, but from the internal parts. The air in the interior may be expelled by boiling, and the exterior air may be kept away by inclosing the substance in an air-tight vessel. If these conditions be carefully observed, food may be preserved for any length of time. Appert's method consists in applying heat to the substances to be preserved, so as to coagulate their fermentable juices, and then to place them in such a situation as to deprive them of contact with air. The vessel in which the meat is prepared is plunged for some time into boiling water before it is finally sealed, in order to drive out the last portions of the air; for, if a small portion of oxygen gas were present, this would be sufficient to commence the process of fermentation, and when once begun it would be continued.
M. Appert's process may be described as follows:—
The meat to be preserved is first parboiled, or somewhat more, and freed from the bones. It is then put, together with vegetables, if required, into tin cases or canisters, which are filled quite up with a rich gravy; a tin cover, with a small aperture in it, is then carefully fixed on to each canister by solder, and while the vessel is perfectly full, it is placed in boiling water, or in a saline bath, heated above the boiling point of water, and kept therein until the air has been expelled as completely as possible by the steam generated within the canister. The small hole in the cover is completely closed up with a little solder while the contents are yet hot, the issue of the steam being stopped for a moment by means of a damp sponge. The canister, with its ingredients, is now allowed to cool, in consequence of which these contract, and the sides of the vessel are forced slightly inwards by the pressure of the atmosphere, and become a little concave. As a precautionary measure, however, the tins are placed in the testing-room, which is heated to above 100° Fahr. Should putrefaction take place in consequence of a minute portion of oxygen left in the case, and not combined with the animal or vegetable matter, the generated gases will burst the canisters; those, however, which withstand this test will preserve the provisions for many years; for as each vessel is hermetically sealed, and all access of air prevented, it may be sent into any climate without fear of putrefaction, and the most delicate food of one country be thus eaten in its original perfection in a distant region, many months, or even years after its preparation. In this manner may all kinds of alimentary substances be preserved; beef, mutton, veal, and poultry; fish and game; soups, broths, and vegetables; creams and custards. Of a quantity taken by Captain Nash to India, not one canister was spoiled; and one which he brought back contained, after two years, beef in the highest state of perfection and preservation, and after having been carried upwards of 35,000 miles, in the warmest climates. This method has been adopted by the commissioners for victualling the English Navy, who, having examined some meat so preserved for four years, during voyages in the Mediterranean, found it as sound, sweet, and fresh, as if it had been boiled only the day before. Captain Basil Hall bears similar testimony. It was stated, however, by the officers in the Antarctic voyage, that they gradually got very tired of preserved meats, but not of preserved vegetables, and that there was an insipidity in them which they did not find in fresh food. There is, however, no doubt that, if the articles be selected with care, and the process be properly conducted, M. Appert's method of preserving food is a valuable invention. If the contractor be careless or dishonest, the most fearful consequences might ensue to the crews of ships victualled with preserved meats. It appears, from a recent examination of several thousand canisters of the preserved meat of the Navy at Portsmouth, England, that their contents were masses of putrefaction, consisting of meat, &c., which, even in a fresh state, ought never to be used as food. It is stated that this preserved meat was supplied from Galatz, in Moldavia.
In 1842, M. Appert's method was made the subject of a further patent, granted to Mr. Bevan, whose process consisted in expelling air from the cases containing the food, by placing such cases in connection with a vacuum chamber, or other exhausting apparatus, and also with a vessel containing gelatine or other suitable fluid material, in such a manner that, by opening the communications, the air escapes into the exhausting apparatus and the gelatine takes its place. By this method the high temperature previously used in preserving food was not required; it could, on the contrary, be cooked at very low temperatures, and in a space almost void of air. The apparatus used is shown in section, in the following figure: A is a vessel open at the top, and filled to the line i with fluid gelatine, having a pipe j, and a stopcock e firmly attached to it. B is a sphere of metal in which a vacuum is produced by blowing steam through it by the pipe l out through k; l and k are then closed, and a jet of water at m, applied to the outside of the sphere, condenses the steam and leaves a vacuum within it. The substance to be preserved is inclosed within a cylindrical tin vessel C, the top of which is then soldered on, and two small metal pipes d and c passed into it air-tight, as far as a b; the other ends being secure to the pipes j j at h h. The case is next immersed in a water-bath N, at a temperature of about 120°, and by turning the cock f, the greater portion of the air in the case C rushes into B; the article of food, animal or vegetable, in the case, being thus relieved of atmospheric pressure, the heat of 120° is sufficient to cook it, and to expel the air from it. A fowl is cooked in this way in about fifteen minutes. The cock e is then opened, and the gelatine, kept fluid by the warm bath P, enters by the pipes j and c, into the case C, and drives the small portion of air left therein into the vacuum chamber B. The case C is then hermetically sealed by nipping the tubes d and c at the points g g. The case is then submitted for a few minutes to the action of boiling water (thirty minutes for a fowl), and when cool, the process is complete.
A concentrated form of food, called meat biscuit, excited a considerable degree of attention in the Great Exhibition. It is formed by boiling down the fresh beef of Texas, and mixing into the strong beef-tea thus formed a certain proportion of the finest flour. The biscuit formed from these materials is so nutritive, that less than four ounces a day (mixed with warm water or not, according to circumstances) is sufficient food for a man in active service. It is very light and portable, and keeps perfectly well without change; hence it is admirably adapted to the provisioning of troops, ships, and overland expeditions. The manufacture is also of great importance to those countries in which cattle are superabundant, and are killed merely for the sake of their skins for the tanner, or their bones for the farmer, the flesh being actually thrown away. In some places, animals which we are accustomed to regard as valuable are so numerous that they are drowned by hundreds, merely to get rid of them, neither their skin, bones, nor flesh serving as a pretext for the wholesale slaughter.
Milk has been preserved in the following manner: Fresh milk is reduced by boiling to one-half, and beaten up with yolk of eggs, in the proportion of eight eggs to every ten and a half quarts of milk. The whole is then placed on the fire for half an hour, and skimmed frequently; it is next strained and heated in a water-bath for two hours. It is stated that this milk will keep good for two years, and, if churned, would afford good butter. Cream may be preserved by boiling five measures down to four; then, after cooling and skimming, it is put into a bottle, corked down, luted, and kept in the boiling heat of a water-bath for half an hour. This, it is said, will keep two years.
A much better method of preserving milk is that first pointed out by M. Dirchoff, the Russian chemist; namely, to solidify it by driving off the aqueous portion by a gentle heat. Specimens of consolidated milk were shown in the Great Exhibition; and it was stated that, after being dissolved in boiling water, and reproduced in the form of milk, the solution will keep pure for four or five days. As milk contains 873 parts of water in every 1000, it follows that 1000 parts of milk will yield by evaporation only 127 parts.
7. Potting is only another contrivance for excluding animal substances from contact with air. Lean meat should be selected, cooked, and then reduced to a pulp by being beaten in a mortar, salt and spices being incorporated. The pulp is then rammed into jars, and preserved from the air by a thick coating of melted butter or lard poured over it.
In the preservation of fruits and vegetables, some are dried, as in the case of nuts, raisins, sweet herbs, &c.; others are preserved by sugar, such as many of the fruits, whose delicate juices would be dissipated in the process of drying. Some are preserved in vinegar, as in the case of pickles; a few by salting, as French beans; and others are preserved in spirits.
Appert's method applies to vegetables and fruits of all kinds; they need not, however, be parboiled. The dry and fresh-gathered fruits are put into strong, wide-mouthed glass bottles, carefully corked, and luted with a cement of lime and soft cheese, and bound down with wire. The bottles are then inclosed separately in canvas bags, and put into a kettle of water, which is gradually heated until it boils; the bottles are kept in this condition until the fruits are boiled in their own juice. The whole is then left to cool; after which the bottles are examined separately, and put away for store.
Many kinds of vegetables may be preserved by being spread out on the floor of a kiln, and dried by a gentle heat: the thicker kinds of roots, such as carrots, turnips, potatoes, &c., are to be sliced, and thoroughly well dried; after which they must be packed up in paper or very dry boxes, and put into casks.[3]
A method of preserving vegetables by drying and pressure, recently invented by M. Masson, was brought into prominent notice at the Great Exhibition. Cabbage, sliced turnips, apples, or whatever vegetable be selected, are dried in an oven at a certain temperature, so as to drive off from seven to eight per cent. of water: the drying must not be conducted too slowly nor too rapidly, but at a medium rate. After the drying, the vegetables are packed into a very small compass by the intense pressure of an hydraulic press; then squared and trimmed with a knife, packed up in tinfoil, and lastly, stored in boxes. A short time ago, we examined some red cabbage preserved in this way, which had been exposed in the Great Exhibition all the time it was open, and had been slowly absorbing moisture, and yet it appeared to be perfectly good. By this method, from 15,000 to 18,000 rations, of a quarter pound each, can be stowed into a cubic yard. We also saw some dried plantains from Mexico (a vegetable of very considerable nutritious value), which had been lying in a warehouse at Woolwich ever since the year 1835, and had undergone no change. It was stated that the method of preparing them is cheap and easy, and that the dried plant can be sent in any quantities to Europe, at six cents per pound, with a considerable profit to the importer.
Some kinds of vegetables, such as French beans, artichokes, olives, samphire, and barberries, are preserved by salt, a strong brine being made by the addition of four pounds of salt to a gallon of water; the vegetables are put into this, and quite covered with it. In Holland and Germany, kidney beans are sliced by a machine something like a turnip-cutter, and put into a cask in layers with salt between; a weight is then put on, and pressure is kept up until a slight fermentation takes place; the salt liquor is then poured off; the cask is covered up, and put into the cellar as store. Before being cooked, the beans are steeped in fresh water.
Sauer Kraut is prepared somewhat in the same manner. The following recipe for making it is given by Parmentier:—
The heads of white winter-cabbages, after removing the outer leaves, are to be cut into fine shreds, and spread out upon a cloth in the shade. A cask which has had vinegar in it is to be selected, or, if that cannot be had, the inside should be rubbed over with vinegar or sauerkraut liquor. A layer of salt is to be put in the bottom of the cask, caraway-seeds are to be mixed with shreds of cabbage, and they are to be packed in the cask to the depth of four or six inches; and layers of this kind, with salt between each layer, are added till the cask is full, stamping them down with a wooden stamper as they are put in, to half their original bulk; some mix a little pepper and salad oil with the salt. Some salt is to be put on the top, and some of the outside leaves of the cabbages. About two pounds of salt suffice for twenty middle-sized cabbages. The head of the barrel is to be placed upon the cabbage-leaves, and must be loaded with heavy stones. A common method is for a man, with clean wooden shoes on, to tread the cabbage down in the cask. Fermentation will take place, and some juice will be given out, which is green, muddy, and fetid; this rises to the surface, and is to be replaced with fresh brine. When the fermentation is over, the casks are closed up. Cabbages are preferred, but any other vegetables may be treated in the same manner.
When vegetables are preserved in vinegar, they form pickles. When sugar is the preserving medium, they are variously named according to the mode of preparation. Fruits, flowers, herbs, roots, and juices, boiled with sugar or syrup, and employed in pharmacy, as well as for sweetmeats, are called confections (Latin, conficere, to make up). Liquid confects consist of fruits, either whole or in pieces, preserved by immersion in fluid transparent syrup: apricots, green citrons, and some foreign fruits, are treated in this way. Dry confects are prepared by boiling in syrup those parts of vegetables adapted to this method, such as citron and orange-peel, &c.; they are then taken out and dried in an oven. Marmalades, jams, and pastes are soft compounds made of the pulp of fruits, or other vegetable substances, beaten up with sugar or honey; oranges, apricots, pears, &c., are treated in this way. Jellies are the juices of fruits—currants, gooseberries, apples, &c.—boiled with sugar to such a consistence as, on cooling, to form a trembling jelly. Conserves are dry confects, made by beating up flowers, fruits, &c. with sugar not dissolved. Candies are fruits candied over with sugar, after having been boiled in the syrup.
The best syrup for preserving fruits is made by dissolving two parts of double-refined sugar in one part of water, boiling a little, skimming, and filtering through a cloth. This gives a good smooth syrup, which does not readily ferment nor crystallize.
The specimens of preserved food in the Great Exhibition were exceedingly numerous; they included animal and vegetable productions, fruits, &c. One interesting specimen was a canister containing boiled mutton, prepared by the exhibitor, Mr. Gamble, for the Arctic Expedition in 1824. A large number of these canisters were landed from the ship Fury, on the beach where the ship was wrecked in Prince Regent's Inlet, and were found by Captain Sir John Ross in August, 1833, in a state of perfect preservation, although annually exposed to a temperature of 92° below, and 80° above zero. Had it not been for the large store of provisions left by Parry near the spot where the Fury was wrecked, Ross's expedition must have perished.
