A Peep at a Queer City.
New Orleans is, I think, entirely different from any other city in the United States. You see things here that you see nowhere else, and you hear things on the street that you hear nowhere else. French is heard oftener than English, and Spanish and Italian are spoken a great deal, as a large percentage of the population is made up of these nationalities. The old French people, and a mixture of French and Spanish, represent the aristocracy of New Orleans, and are known as "Creoles." But these have degenerated to some extent, and the younger generation of Creoles, especially the men, are said to be lazy and worthless.
Canal Street, the principal retail shopping street of the city, forms the dividing line between the French and English portions, and I may venture to say, on good authority, that some of the old French Indies have never crossed Canal Street to penetrate into the English part of the city.
One of the first things a visitor goes to see is the old French Market on the river front. This is interesting to a stranger, but years ago it was even more so. The thing that strikes you most is the dirt, which is in great abundance; but you will find that most anywhere in New Orleans, although they are trying to improve it. Everybody that goes to the French Market gets a cup of coffee and a doughnut, commonly known as a "sinker," on account of its great solidity. Frenchmen, Italians or "dagos," old black mammies with their heads done up in bright bandannas, Indian women with herbs and bright baskets for sale—these and many others you see in the old market. A short distance from it are the historic Jackson Square and St. Louis Cathedral, one of the oldest churches in the United States. Jackson Square has beautiful flowers in it the year round, and a fine equestrian statue of Andrew Jackson graces the centre. I have never been in the cathedral except during service, but I know there are some beautiful pictures there which time has not spoiled, but rather increased the interest one always feels for such things.
The winters here are what makes New Orleans so attractive to many people, and they certainly are delightful. It is a customary thing to see roses in great abundance, beautiful green lawns, and a great many flowers in bloom the entire year; but they don't do so well in summer—it is too hot.
A drive along the principal residence street, St. Charles Avenue, is very delightful on a bright winter morning, for there are so many handsome houses, and they all have gardens beautifully kept. That is a good thing about New Orleans. There is plenty of air; each house has some yard; they are not close together as in other cities. In my next morsel I will tell you about Mardi Gras. Shall I describe a sugar plantation for you?
Sophie Eleanor Clark.
Yes, please do.