A Fascinating Walk in Rome.
This has been a very rainy season. In February it even snowed a little, which is a wonderful thing in Rome. How I should like to see a big snow-storm! A few days ago I went to the Museo Nazionale, which is made in a part of the Baths of Diocletian. In the entranceway are at least ten headless women, which we call Bluebeard's wives, although they are not hung up by their hair.
Further in is a large "cortile," and in the middle of it there are some cypresses which are said to have been planted by Michaelangelo. And one may almost believe it, because they look old and are almost dead. Near them is a fountain, and all around it are immense animals' heads on pedestals—an elephant, a rhinoceros, a horse, and others—and there are many vases and statues around the garden.
In a room on the first floor is a half figure of a vestal virgin who has a noble expression on her face. On the second floor is a large bronze statue of a pugilist resting. It was found not long ago when they were excavating to build the Theatre Nazionale. It is very powerfully done, with its prominent muscles. Its head is hideous, and he has many scars and a broken nose. In another room is a headless statue of a young man on one knee. This statue is very pretty, and it is a great pity that it has lost its head.
In one room is a lovely head of a woman asleep, and lying on a velvet cushion it looks very natural, although it has lost most of its nose. It has a very peaceful expression. In one room are some old coins dug up here not many years ago. Ages ago they were sent from England as Peterpence by Alfred the Great, Athelstan, and other kings. The Baths of Diocletian are now used in many ways very different from those they were meant for; one large vaulted hall is used to store the wood of a carpenter, another for coal, and a large part of the building is turned into a blind-asylum. There is also a big church made from part of it planned by Michaelangelo. It is called Santa Maria degli Angeli. It is a very handsome church, and has several immense ancient granite columns. Formerly they had been shamefully plastered over, but now the plaster has been scraped off. On the floor of the church is a metal line on some part of which the sun shines at meridian, and on each side of it are the Signs of the Zodiac set in marble of many colors.
Near the entrance is the tomb of Salvator Rosa with his bust over it. He was a good painter, but he chose queer subjects. I have seen dark landscapes, a picture of a witch, and a group of three horrible heads of fierce-looking brigands of his. He was a poet, too, and we have a book of his satires. We have also some pretty songs of his, which prove that he was a good musician. In front of these many buildings, which were once used for bathing, is a very attractive square with a lovely fountain which has a splendid flow of water, and in the evening it is very beautifully illuminated by electricity. Near there is the great Central Station of Rome.
Rome, Italy.
Maria Ojetti, R. T. L.