THE LOCKED AND CORDED BOX TRICK.
The trick with the locked and corded box, I believe, is an old one, though perhaps not in its present form. In late years it has been revived with improvements, and popularized by those clever illusionists, Messrs. Maskelyne & Cook and Dr. Lynn, at the Egyptian Hall. There are several ways of working the trick or, rather, of arranging the special bit of mechanism wherein the peculiar features of the box consist. The one I am about to describe is, I think, the best of those I am acquainted with, or at liberty to divulge. Indeed, I don't know that any method is better, and this one has the advantage over most others of allowing the performer to get into as well as out of the box, without leaving a trace of his means of ingress. It will be seen the box is paneled, and all the panels look equally firm and fixed. As a matter of fact, one of the panels is movable, though the closest scrutiny would fail to discover this if the box and fittings are carefully made and adjusted. Fig. 1 shows the general appearance of the box, of which the back is the same as the front. In the box I describe, the end marked + has a movable panel. The size of the box should be regulated by the size of the performer; but one measuring 3 feet 6 inches long by 2 feet back to front, and 21 inches high, exclusive of the lid, which may be 3 inches, will be of general use. In making the box it is most important that all sides and panels look alike, and that nothing special in the appearance of the end with the loose panel should attract notice. Fig. 2 shows this end with fittings drawn half of full size, and it will he seen from this that the framing, A, is 3 inches wide by 1¼ inches thick, and the panel, B, ½ inch thick.
FIG. 1.
It will be noticed that the top and bottom rails of the frame are rabbeted to receive the panel, but the sides are grooved, the groove in front rail being double the depth of the one in the back rail.
THE LOCKED AND CORDED BOX TRICK. By DAVID B. ADAMSON.
The dotted line, B, shows the size of the panel; the dotted line, C, shows the depth of groove in the front rail. From this it will be clear that the panel is only held in place at the back and front, and that on sliding it toward the front it will be free out of the groove in the back rail. Three sides of it are thus free, and a little manipulation will allow of its being taken out altogether, leaving plenty of space for the performer to get out, presuming him to have been locked inside the box.
If the panel were to be finished in this way, without further fittings, the secret would soon be discovered; and I now proceed to show how the panel is held in place and firm while under examination.
Determine the size of screws that are to be used in fixing the brass corner clamps. Let us say No. 7 is decided on; and if brass screws are used, then get a piece of brass, Fig. 4, the exact diameter of the screw-head, and a little longer than the thickness of the framing. If iron screws are to be used, then this piece must be iron. Now bore a hole into which this bolt will fit closely, right through the framing at D, Fig. 2. It is most important that the hole should be made close up to the edge of the panel, B, so that when the bolt is in it firmly holds the panel, and prevents it moving from back to front in the grooving. Now get a piece of sheet brass, 1/8 inch thick, and cut it to the shape shown by E, Fig. 2. The width of this piece should not be less than 3/8 inch, and it must be of such length that the end reaches to the middle of the top framing, as shown at L, Fig. 2. This piece of brass is sunk in the top and front framing, as shown by the dotted lines, G, in Figs. 2 and 3, and also in section in the latter.
When the box is open, the lower or short arm of this lever, which is shaped as shown full size, at E, Fig. 8, is kept pressed down on the bolt, D, as shown by the dotted lines, E, E, E, Fig. 2, and E, Fig. 7, by of the spring, J, Fig. 2.
On the box being closed, a pin on the under edge of lid goes into the hole, L, Fig. 3, and presses the end of the lever down in such a way as to raise the claw end of it from D. The thick dotted lines, F, F, F, Fig. 2, show position of lever when box is closed.
It will be noted that the bolt, D, Fig. 4, has a groove cut in it all around, into which the claw fits. This prevents the bolt being pushed backward or forward when the box is open.
The lever must be hung as shown, K, Fig. 2. The exact position of this is immaterial, but it is as well to have the fulcrum as near the end as may be, in order that the claw may be raised sufficiently with only a small movement of the short arm of the lever. Of course, the shorter the arm is, the more accurately the lid and pin must be made to close.
If the pin, pressing short arm down, be too short, the pressure will not be enough to release the claw, and consequently the performer might find himself really unable to get out of the box after it is locked.
The end of the lever should be finished with a wood block, as Fig. 6, larger than the pin on the lid, as represented by L and M, Fig. 3.
The block may be of other material, but should be colored the same as the wood the box is made of, so that, if any one were to look down on it, no suspicion would be aroused, as might be were plain brass used.
FIG 4.
FIG 5.
In Fig. 5, I show an easy way of hanging the lever. It is simply a piece of wire sharpened and notched, so as to form several small barbs, preventing withdrawal. The mode of fixing will be easily understood by reference to B and C, Fig. 5. Some considerable amount of care will have to be bestowed on fitting and adjusting this part of the work, on which the successful performance of the trick consists, and before finally fixing up, it should be ascertained that all the movements work harmoniously. It will be best to cut the groove in which the lever works from below, and, after the lever is fixed, to fill up the space not required by the lever with strips of wood, H, H. If preferred, the space can be shaped out from the back, i.e., the inside of the framing, and then filled where not required, but as this, however neatly done, would show a joint which might be detected by sharp eyes, it is better to cut from below, though more troublesome.
The end containing the movable panel being arranged, make up the rest of the box to it, taking care to make the rebates of the top and bottom frames to correspond with those of the end.
The other panels should not, however, depend on the grooves on two sides only, but at tops and bottoms as well.
FIG. 6.
FIG. 7. & FIG. 8.
FIG. 9.
The rebates are to be cut only to have all the framing inside look alike; and as the panel, B, is made to fit quite close into the rebate, it will not be surmised that it is not fitted in the usual way.
After the box is made and fitted together, the clamping must be done. The only necessity for this is in order that the bolt, D, which we have seen is made on the outside end exactly to match the screws used to fasten the clamps, should not be conspicuous, as it would be were it alone. As it is, it will not be specially observable, being apparently only one of the screws to fasten the clamps.
The clamps may be of thin brass or iron, shaped as shown at Fig. 9. One of the corner holes must be arranged to cover D exactly, and the others regulated to it. Let us suppose that A, Fig. 9, is the one through which the bolt goes; the other corner screw holes must be equally distant from the edges of the clamps. Twelve of these clamps will be needed. After they have been screwed on, put the bolt through, and let the claw of the lever hold it in place. Then mark and cut the bolt flush with the clamp, making a hollow on the end of it to imitate the screws, as D, Fig. 4. The other end of the bolt should either be made flush with the inside of frame and colored to match it, or, better, cut short and faced flush with a piece of wood to match the framing.
If a piece of wood with a knot be chosen for this side of the frame, so much the better. Immediately over the hole, L, a wooden pin should be fixed in the lid, and of such length that it will press the short arm of lever down sufficiently. It should fit the hole pretty closely.
At the other end, a corresponding pin and hole should be made, and, say, two along the front. These will then look as if they were intended merely as fittings to hold the lid in position. The lid at the other end of the box from the movable panel should have a stop of some sort; the ordinary brass joint stop will do as well as any, and should be strong. The reason for placing it at what I may call "the other end" is that, when the box is being examined, it will attract notice, and draw attention from the movable panel end.
We may now finally adjust the loose panel, which must fit tight at top and bottom, and be slightly beveled, as shown on section. Two holes must also be cut through it, at such a distance from each other that a finger and thumb can be put through them, so as to allow of the panel being moved. In the deep grooving in front also put a couple of springs, say pieces of clock springs, as shown, I, I, Fig, 2. These serve to assist the bolt, D, by pushing the panel into position.
Holes to match those in end panel must also be cut in the other panels, and when a lock, preferably a padlock, has been fitted, the box is complete.
I don't know whether it is necessary to say that the lid should be hinged at the back, and of course it will add to the appearance of the box if it be polished or oiled.
Now, for those who may not have seen the locked and corded box trick performed, a few words of caution may not be out of place. Don't forget to have something in a pocket easily got at that will serve to push the bolt out, before going into the box. A piece of stout wire, a small pencil case, or anything of that sort will do. Be careful when getting into the box to lie with your head toward the loose panel end, and face toward the front—as there will be no space to turn round; the right hand will then be uppermost and free to push the bolt out. Having done this, grasp the panel with the finger and thumb by means of the two holes, push it to the front of the box, when the back edge will be clear of the groove. It can now easily be pulled into the box, and the performer can creep out. When out, refix panel and bolt so that everything looks as it was. Any cording that may be over the end of the box will give sufficiently to allow of exit.
I have, I think, made it quite clear that padlock and ropes have nothing to do with the real performance of the trick, but they serve to mystify spectators, who may be allowed to knot the rope and seal the knots in any way they choose.
There must always be a screen or curtain to hide the box from the spectators while the performer is getting in or out.—D.B. Adamson, in Amateur Work.