Positive Prevention of After-Swarming.
Written for the American Bee Journal
BY FRANK COVERDALE.
James Heddon, I believe, was the first to give us a practical method for the control of after-swarming; however, the method could not be absolutely depended upon to do the work, but was a grand step in the right direction. Who knows, to a certainty, just when the first queen-cell will hatch in the old hive—whether it will be 5 days or 15 days? A second swarm might issue before the old hive was ever moved to its permanent stand, and again after it had been moved, on account of the first cell hatching so late.
It was when I was busy making hay, when an occasional swarm would leave me, causing much vexation in my mind, and many hours of deep study, how I should overcome this difficulty; and it came, to my mind that a bee-escape might do the work, so I attached one to a hive, at the first opportunity. A 1½-inch hole was bored in the center of one side near the bottom edge, and a wire-screen cone fitted in the hole, and the entrance entirely closed; the newly-hived swarm was placed close by its side, with the entrance just under the above prepared cone, and every bee that left the old hive became an occupant of the new hive.
In three days an examination was made in the old hive, for I was afraid that too many bees would leave the brood, and destruction be the result. But, oh, how I was delighted! All was lovely still. In three days more another examination was made, with like results, and still another three days later, making nine days. Then I began boring holes in other hives, and treating them as above, with the same results, until all (60 colonies) that swarmed were in the same condition.
Some of the old hives were moved to their new stands in 12, others in 13, 14 and 16 days, the last being rather too long a time—14 days is about right in my location. Then these old colonies can be given a ripe queen-cell, or a queen, or the entrance be opened and left so until all the young bees are hatched, when the entrance can be again closed, and it will unite with the new swarm, and the combs will be empty. In fact, you may have full control of the matter, as to managing against second swarms.
The first two years I used the bored holes, covering them over when through, with a piece of section tacked over them; but since then an escape has been used at the entrance; however, at times the latter would get clogged, causing some annoyance, and I now think the bored hole at the side is best.
If the reader will carefully look over the back numbers of the Bee Journal, it will be seen that I have touched upon this point before, but dare not recommend it as being entirely practicable. But I hesitate no longer, but advise all who stand in need, to try and be convinced how this plan lessens labor, cost and vexation of after-swarms; and in my location greatly increases a crop of comb honey, and of finer quality than it otherwise would have been.
Fear not that the new swarms will be overcrowded in numbers, and swarm again, but furnish each new hive with starters below and full sheets of comb foundation in all the sections above, and you will soon begin to wonder whether it is best to "prevent swarming" or not. It is nice to have wood-zinc queen-excluders, then all can be arranged at the time of hiving—such as moving the partly-finished sections from the parent colony immediately to the newly-hived swarm, and not have to wait two or three days for the queen to establish her brood-nest below.
Welton, Iowa.
