EXTRACTS FROM JOURNAL OF REV. H. M. LADD.
Thursday, October 20.—Land! Egypt land! The lighthouse was the first object in sight this morning, then the low coast and the domes and minarets of the City of Alexandria, and last, but not least, Pompey’s Pillar. After taking our pilot on board we slowly rounded the long breakwater on which the lighthouse stands, and steamed into harbor. Before we had fairly drawn up alongside the quay a crowd of boatmen were on board.
We selected the Hotel Abbatmen, and were soon off with them in a small boat. We passed the Customs without the slightest difficulty and were driven to our hotel. Here we had our lunch, and then, as we intended to go right on to Cairo by the early morning train, we improved what little time we had during the afternoon by visiting Pompey’s Pillar, the gardens of the Khedive, the Rosetta gate, the Bazaars, etc.
Friday, October 21.—At 8 A.M. we took the cars for Cairo. Arriving at the station, we found a large omnibus waiting for us, and we were driven to Shepard’s Hotel, where we have been assigned very pleasant rooms. This is a very fine hotel for this part of the world. In front and around it is a garden filled with tropical trees and shrubs. Two fountains dash their cooling spray high into the air, and there is a small menagerie, from which the table is often supplied.
Here, as on the Galata Bridge, in Constantinople, the past and the present, the east and the west, flow together. The latest fashions from Paris, and the garb of the time of Abraham, the luxuriance of Oriental wealth and splendor, and the miserable poverty and nakedness of the oppressed “fellahin,” all pass before one like the shifting figures of a kaleidoscope. It is a most interesting and absorbing scene, to be found nowhere else in the world.
Saturday, October 22.—Called at the American Consulate the first thing this morning, but found it closed. We were bothered with a host of dragomans and donkey-boys, but they are finding out that people who speak Turkish and Greek and French as well as English, and a few words of other languages, are “one too many” for them! We took a little walk alone about the European portion of the city, to get the hang of the place. Some of the residences and public buildings are very fine. In some places you quite forget that you are not in Paris. To-day, our Consul-General, Hon. Simon Wolf, has been formally presented to the Khedive in great pomp. The Khedive always makes a great display on these occasions, and presents the new Consul with a fine Arabian horse. We called again at the Consulate, and were glad to receive our letters from home. We talked up our contemplated trip with some of the officials, and gained valuable information.
Sunday, Oct. 23.—Judge Farman, from the United States, called early this morning. He is very kind, and is doing all in his power to pave the way for us to the favor of the officials here. As he was to leave on Monday for Alexandria, he asked us to go with him to the Consulate, where he told them what he wanted done for us. A number of Arabic interpreters have been recommended to us for our trip, but we take our time in the choice of a proper man. We find that it will be necessary to take an Arabic interpreter and a cook from here.
CAIRO.
We attended the Mission Church, under the care of the United Presbyterians this morning, and greatly enjoyed being among our own people again. I presented my letter of introduction to Drs. Lansing and Watson, and found them to be very agreeable gentlemen, and at once greatly interested in our work.
Monday, October 24.—Called at the Consulate again this morning, and had an interview with our Consul-General, Mr. Wolf. We found him to be a very pleasant man, bright and energetic, and anxious to promote our interests in every way possible. He proposed to present us to the Khedive and to introduce us to Sir Edward Malet, the English Consul, to whom we have letters from the British Foreign Office, and to General Stone, who is in a position where he can help us greatly.
October 25.—I’m trying to pick up Arabic, but I find a donkey-boy better help than a book. We tried this method this morning, and started for the bazaars. I rode “Yankee Doodle,” a very smart little donkey, and Doctor rode “Champagne Charley.” We went through the gold and silver bazaars and the Turkish bazaars and the shoe bazaars, and various other departments. Here I aired my Turkish and my Greek. Everywhere we went there was a gentle murmur in our ears, “Bakhshish,” “Bakhshish.” We have got accustomed to it now, and rather like it; in fact, we feel quite lost without it.
Wednesday, October 26.—We went this morning to call upon Sir Edward Malet, K. C. B., with our Consul. I presented our letter from the Foreign Office, and we were very cordially received. He gave us some good advice and considerable information, and promised to get us the necessary letters. He also requested us to report to him the state of the slave trade on our return. We find that we have to move very cautiously. The slave trade is a touchy question in some quarters, and proselytism is another. In order to obtain any favor, we are obliged to emphasize the educational part of the work proposed.
Thursday, October 27.—Dr. Lansing called again this evening. He has a man he wants to send with us as far as Khartoum selling the Scriptures. He also thinks that there are some from among the tribes we hope to reach in their schools now who will work in with us in time.
Friday, October 28.—In the P.M. we went with Dr. Lansing and a party of friends to see, or rather hear, the Howling Dervishes. It was something unearthly, devilish, and never to be forgotten. Doctor and I began to calculate our chances if their religious enthusiasm and fanaticism should lead them to turn upon us. There has been a great revival of Mohammedanism lately and fanaticism. After this we went to the old synagogue, where there is a manuscript of the law written by Ezra. This is actually the case Dr. Lansing affirms. He intends to examine it more thoroughly some day, but it is very carefully guarded. Then we visited the old Roman gates of New Babylon and also attempted another church, but found it closed; we finished up with a drive on the fine Shubra avenue. There we saw the Khedive and a vast turnout of handsome carriages and handsomer occupants.
Sunday, October 30.—Attended the mission church and heard Mr. Helditch on Psalm cxxxix. 18. Met some Americans there who expressed great interest in our work. Remained quietly in our rooms the rest of the day.
Monday, October 31.—Wrote nearly all day. Received our circular letters from the Government to the authorities in Soudan and the Equatorial Provinces. Had a very friendly call from Sir Edward Malet, K. C. B., who offered himself for any further services he could render.
Tuesday, November 1.—Called at the Consulate. Our baggage, which we sent overland by express, has not come yet, but we are told to give it time—everything needs plenty of time. In the afternoon we called by appointment at the Consul’s residence. Here we met several gentlemen who knew all about the Soudan; one had been there, and another was an intimate friend of the Pasha, the Governor-General. The Consul then took us around and introduced us to Gen. Stone. In his position of Commander-in-Chief he can do more for us than any one else, and he knows more than any one else about Soudan and the Nile. He received us very cordially and seemed eager to do what he could for us. With maps before us he gave us much valuable information in regard to positions and healthfulness. He also put us in the way of transportation across the desert at the least expense of time and money. He strongly advises us to have headquarters at Berber, and in establishing our stations not to stop at the Sobat, but to go on to Fatiko. He is also going to furnish us letters to the Governors. We dined this afternoon at the American Mission House with Mr. and Mrs. Harvey, and spent a very pleasant evening with the teachers. I conducted prayers in the girls’ department, and saw there several children who had been brought down as slaves from the very tribes to which we are going. They seemed to be very bright and intelligent. If we find as good material as that we shall have no cause to complain.
Wednesday, November 2.—Called at Consulate and received letters. We had the clerk translate the telegram which General Stone wrote for us to send to Souakim, with reference to transportation, into Arabic, and then we were advised to get General Stone’s seal to it.
Thursday, November 3.—We have found and engaged a good interpreter at a moderate price. We called on General Stone and obtained his seal to the telegram.
Friday, November 4.—Called at the Consulate. Sent telegram of General Stone to Marquette, at Souakim. It will take some days to get an answer from it. We are told to-day that the English steamer we intended to take down the Red Sea has been delayed for about ten days. It is better to pass our Quarantine here than at Souakim. This is our only consolation, for we are very anxious to be off now, although they all tell us that we are early yet.
Saturday, November 6.—We hope this week to see at least the beginning of the end of our waiting here. Much will depend on the answer to our telegram; some will depend on the letters from General Stone: much more will depend on the movements of that English steamer on the Red Sea.
It is not always possible to make circumstances.