JOURNAL
Of the Arthington Expedition, Kept by REV. HENRY M. LADD, D.D.
The time from Feb. 23d to March 31st was spent by the explorers in Khartoum. During their stay Raouf Pasha, Governor General of the Soudan, was deposed for not taking more active measures against the “False Prophet,” and Abdel Kadir Pasha was appointed in his place, with a residence at Cairo, while the Soudan was divided into four provinces, and Khartoum was reduced from the capital to a Mudirieh. During this time also they witnessed the gathering of Giegler Pasha’s army and its embarkation. Owing to the disturbances they experienced great difficulty in getting transport to Berber. The troubles in Egypt were also rapidly culminating, and gave them serious anxiety as to the possibility of returning through that country. They suffered from poor food. Their dragoman was ill with fever. The time, however, was well improved in studying the people, and the language with which they became quite familiar, in selecting and photographing sites for buildings, and in learning from Emin Bey, Governor of the Equatorial Provinces, certain important particulars in regard to that country.—Ed.
Friday, March 31st.—After lunch we called at Emin Bey’s, and then walked down to our boat and little steamer. We went first to a previously appointed rendezvous at Marquet’s. All the “élite” of the city were present to see the party off. We felt that we had some friends in this far-off place. There were present H. E. Giegler Pasha, Marcopoli Bey, Emin Bey, Georgius Bey, the American Consular Agent, English Consular Agent, and other Consuls; there were priests and merchants, and altogether a large crowd. It was something like a first-class funeral. Finally everything was ready, and at 5 o’clock we went on board, amid much hand-shaking, and even kissing, after the oriental fashion, and the waving of hats and handkerchiefs. As we had the French Consul with us, the French and American flags were hoisted. Soon the tug rope of the little steamer tightened, our boat moved, we were off, and before long we had turned the point, entered the Nile proper, and were headed north-ward and homeward. Our quarters were fairly comfortable. We had a covering of mats over our heads, and the room under it was taken up with our cots. There were four of us here, and the rest were on the steamer that towed us. We made good time. Stopped for the night at a sandy bank. Dinner was served on the sand, and then we went to bed in the moonlight.
Saturday, April 1st.—No sleep! Too novel a position. Off at sunrise. The Frenchman remarked classic beauty in the cook of the boat! Stopped for wood at the cataract. Very hot! Off again. Passed the cataract safely, though the water was very low, and many of the passages dangerous. We noted several wrecks of boats about us. One was a ship belonging to Moussalli, who is with us. Had to throw off the line from the steamer in some places, and row ourselves through. Struck the rocks many times, hard enough to sink ordinary boats. Things were thrown into a little confusion by it, but no leak sprung. Passed the wild gorge “Sebeloga.” Camped at sunset. Several of the party ill. Took dinner on the bank. Went to bed on the sand in the open air and the glorious moonlight.
Monday, April 3d.—Up early; waked Ibrahim, plunged into the river with Moussalli, to get the sand out of eyes and ears. The sick ones are very poorly to-day. Stopped at Damer about 2:30 P.M. Had some difficulty to get wood. Moussalli is ill. Midani, his bookkeeper, has a high fever. I turn doctor, and nurse the crowd as well as I can. A gale of wind has been blowing, increasing to a tempest. Slept out in it all. We have not left Khartoum any too soon for the health of the crowd.
Tuesday, April 4th.—Blowing a gale. Start at sunrise. All are ill to-day except myself. The waves are high, and the spray goes over us. Arrived at the rocks, but it was blowing so hard that the captain dared not try to pass them. We tied up at the bank. Tried the pass once more, and tied up again. Finally, we made another attempt; had a very exciting time, but got through part way very well. Sent a boat ahead to pick out the channel. Expected every moment to strike, and perhaps be wrecked. We did strike at last, and were nearly capsized, but, thanks to the strength of the boat, we came out all right. When we were finally clear of the rocks the men cheered and praised Allah, and we gave them a backshish. A little further on we went fast aground on a sand bank, and spent about two hours getting off. At last Berber came into sight, and at 5 P.M. we tied up at the bank, which is now very high, as the river is many feet lower than when we were here before. Went on shore, selected a good site for the tents; put one of ours up, and got into shape for the night.
Wednesday, April 5th.—Up early, and worked hard in the hot sun. Put up the other tent. Our tents, together with the Consul’s and Moussalli’s and the cook’s make quite a little village by themselves. Made arrangements for camels amid much noise and discussion and haggling of prices. There have been some wordy disagreements in camp among our friends. It is finally settled that we are to start on Friday. The doctor is better, and has good courage. To-day the Consul’s cook was stung by a scorpion, and under the doctor’s directions I painted the wound with iodine. The poor fellow suffered severely for a time. A guard of four soldiers has been sent to act as sentry for us during the night. They will probably be sound asleep as soon as we turn in. The river has risen a few inches to-day, owing probably to heavy rains at the South, but will doubtless fall again to-morrow.
Friday, April 7th.—This has been a day of trials. There has been no end of them! Everything was made ready this morning for the start, but we could not get away till afternoon, so we paid a visit in the meantime to Hassan Halifa’s father, the royal old Arab who treated us so handsomely when we first came here. He kindly consented to have his photograph taken. After the delay we thought we should surely get off in good season, or about 3 P.M., but it was not so foreordained. Difficulties seemed to multiply at every move. Everything went wrong. Patience was nearly gone. It was 9 o’clock at night before we fairly started! Rode up and down the line on my camel to see that everything was at last right. There was a delay among the rear camels. Went back to see what the matter was. Some of the camels had run away and smashed up their loads, and others had fallen down, and altogether there were five loads strewn upon the ground. The camels were a bad lot, and the men were as bad a lot. Things were getting rather serious. A free fight was imminent. Moussalli was on the point of returning to Berber and entering a complaint. The rest of the party, however, had gone on, and I thought it was better to patch up the loads the best way we could, go on until we reached the advance party, and then hold a council. A return to Berber would do but little good, and would result in great delay. So on we went the best way we could in the dark, and found the rest at the well. It was 1:30 A.M. when we took dinner! I put up a tent for the doctor, and the rest of us took a nap in the open air.
Saturday, April 8th.—At 3 A.M. Moussalli’s agent and the sheik of the camel drivers arrived. They had heard of our troubles and brought a fresh lot of camels. After much loud talking several changes were made. Some of the camels with their drivers were sent back to Berber, and others substituted. We have 53 camels now. We tried to be gay and rise above our troubles. The heat is intense. There is one well at this point about 50 feet deep, but the water is bad. Started the caravan at 4 P.M., and went on till 10 o’clock. Had dinner at 12:30 A.M. Put up the tent for doctor; the rest of us went to bed with the stars looking down upon us.
Sunday, April 9th.—This is the holy Sabbath and we would be glad to rest to-day, but necessity is upon us and we must move on. On a journey like this we cannot do as we would like, and have on several such occasions been obliged to keep going when we have longed for the sacred quiet of the day. I was so tired last night that an odd thing happened. I was struck by sleep, as one might be struck by lightning, only the results were not so disastrous. I had tumbled into my cot, and was conscious of putting my hand out to draw the sheet over me, but before I had time to do it I was sound asleep, and awoke in the morning with the intention still unfulfilled. After a hasty cup of coffee we were off this morning at 6:30, and marched till 10:30. The sirocco has been blowing all day, and the heat is something terrible. Worked hard in the hot sun to get a tent up for our nooning. We are on an immense sandy plain, the ideal desert, and the heat reflected from the sand burns like a furnace.
Monday, April 10th.—We must press on to reach water. Midani is too ill to sit on his camel, so we have improvised a bed and placed him on it, and in this way go slowly on. Started at 6:30 A.M. We are still on a sandy undulating plain which seems endless, and the march is very wearisome. The Consul and Mourgan have both suffered from bleeding at the nose this morning. Camped for our nooning at 11:30. Poor Midani suffers exceedingly. We put up the tents, as the heat is terrible. Started again at 4:30 P.M. From here till one reaches the vicinity of Souakim the road is considered unsafe. We met some rather wild-looking parties, who, the guides told us, were brigands, but we were numerous and well armed, and they kept a respectful distance from us. Even the camel drivers do not dare to travel in this region without being armed with swords and spears and pistols. Met several caravans. Came to some very steep sand hills. The pass over the highest was so narrow and precipitous that I thought the camels could not possibly get safely over it, but they did. Reached the wells of Aubak about 8:30 P.M. Found many wells and excellent water, but the water is easily riled. Took a good deep drink. Such a drink is worth a mine of gold on the desert. There are a number of caravans here.
Tuesday, April 11th.—The men did not want to leave the well before the P.M. Had to force them. Almost a revolt. Quite a little misunderstanding has sprung up between our friends. Left at 7:30. Traversed a high plain. Fearfully hot. Camped at 11:30. Were treated to a whirlwind of sand. Tried to amuse ourselves at revolver practice to pass away the hours of intense mid-day heat. Started again about 5 P.M. Passed on from plain to plain between bare, black, rocky mountains. Camped at 10:30 in a sandy spot. Had dinner at 12:30 A.M. We are all tired, but in pretty good spirits.
Wednesday, April 12th.—Started at 7:30. Marched till 11:30. Found a few bare thorn bushes and tried to spread our blankets over them in such a way as to afford us a little shade till the caravan with the tents came up. Even the poor little donkey that the guide rides, and our camels, also, asked to share our scanty shade with us. The thermometer stands at 111° in the shade. Cooked an egg in the sand. Started again at 5 P.M. The latter part of the evening journey I make on foot. The rest of the crowd is generally used up. At last, Midani is able to go no further, and, on his account, we are obliged to halt for the night. The camel drivers protest, saying that the water is all gone, and that we shall suffer before we reach the next well. We make a personal inspection and find that there are five skins half full. One of these is given to the drivers, one to the cooks, and three for our own use are placed at the foot of my cot for safe keeping. Went to bed at 1:30 A.M.
Thursday, April 13th.—Up at 4 A.M. Started at 5:45. We have had a long tramp over plain after plain, on and on to the mountains and through a high mountain pass till, at length, we have reached the wells of Arieb. It is very hot. Crowds of camels, cattle and donkeys are around the principal well, all drinking. The water is not very good, but we drink it and try to imagine that it is. The tents are up, and after a good bath we tumble into our cots, glad of a little rest.
Friday, April 14th.—Up early, and left at 6:30 A.M. Followed the wady, which is full of rocks and stunted trees, and then traversed an immense plateau. We camped for noon in a sandy spot, just before entering another pass. At 5 P.M. we were off again, and passed some very picturesque and really wonderful granite formations. Traversing a fine hard gravel plain, which gave us an extensive view, we passed the half-way mark, a huge pile of granite boulders. We then came into a mountain region, said to be infested with robbers. It is true that here, not very long ago, a caravan was attacked in the night and robbed, and some of the parties killed. We had come a long journey, the place was convenient for camping, and some one proposed that we should spend the night here; but the guides manifested great fear, and would not give their consent. They said it was bad enough at the wady Kokreb, but under no circumstances would they stop this side of the wady. Some of us were ahead of the caravan, and we took the advice of the guides, and pushed on for the wady. Soon after arriving and selecting the spot for our camp, and while waiting for the caravan to come up, we were visited by a couple of suspicious-looking men, who asked a few questions, and after looking us well over disappeared in the bush. The guides said they were spies of the robbers, and advised us to fire off our guns and revolvers, to let them know that we were well armed, which we did. In about half an hour the rest of the party and the caravan came up. They reported having met twelve mounted men, who acted suspiciously in the dark. Mr. Moussalli called to them in Arabic, and demanded who they were and what they wanted. They admitted that they were robbers. They were then told that our party was all armed, and that if they came near the caravan they would get into trouble. We formed our camp in a circle, spreading our baggage around us for a protection as best we could, and then went to sleep with our hands on our revolvers, trusting for our safety, now that we had done what we could, in Him who never slumbers.
Saturday, April 15.—Examined the wady Kokreb to ascertain whether there was water to be found here, which I suspected, but which the guides denied. Found that there was a well a little way up the wady, which we passed soon after starting. The guides seem to find it easier to tell a barefaced falsehood than to speak the truth. For some reason or other they are determined to deny the existence of water at various points along the route, where we know it is to be found. Left at 6:30 A.M., and followed the wady, which is quite full of trees and rather a pleasant part of the journey. Towards noon we arrived at Kokreb, where there is a well and a station. We spread the fly of our tent over some old posts for a protection from the sun. The sheik of the station kindly (for a consideration) procured us a good drink of milk. Here we met a number of caravans. There were many pilgrims among them returning from Mecca. One woman, who was supposed to be irresistible, was sent among us to beg. We offered her some food, which she indignantly refused. The well here is shallow, and is emptied as fast as it fills. We left at 4:20 P.M., passing through a wild, narrow defile in the mountains. The scenery here is extremely wild and picturesque. We ascended now very rapidly, and the sight of the mountains in the purple glow of sunset was magnificent. As night came on it began to grow intensely cold. We camped at a great height. The cold was extreme. We got out our tent-flies and crawled under them.
Sunday, April 16.—This morning we killed a scorpion that was found under the Consul’s saddlebags. Saw several gazelles. Again we are obliged to travel much against our wishes. There are trees along the wadys all the way, now. Met many long caravans carrying American oil to Berber and Khartoum. Camped at 10:30. At 4:30 we were obliged to start again. The mountain scenery here is grand! Toward night we entered a narrow gorge, running North and South, between two high mountains. Here we had to keep a sharp lookout in the dark, lest we should be left, like Absalom, hanging from a tree. These overhanging thorn trees did, in fact, rather mar Mr. Moussalli’s beauty, but the rest of us dodged and preserved ours. We found several wells in between these two mountains, and here we camped for the night. This is also a dangerous locality, on account of robbers. The nights are very cold in these mountain heights.
Monday, April 17.—Up early and examined the so-called wells of Haratree. They consist of places scooped out in the gravel of the dry bed of the river, and are only from two to five feet deep. There is also a pond near a large rock, where one may bathe. There are many aloes in this valley, and doves in great numbers, and in at least three varieties. On quitting this gorge the rise is very rapid till a pass is reached at an elevation of 3,000 feet. I am the only one who is not ill to-day. Camped at 11 o’clock in a large plain under a huge mimosa tree in the bed of a small river, now dry. When we started in the afternoon there was a little trouble with a Hadendoah Arab, who had “appropriated” one of our camels, but his claim was soon settled, and he was glad to slink out of sight. Off at 4 P.M., and traveled through quite a park, where rabbits and gazelles abound. Camped at night at “Durse,” or “The Mountain of the Molar Tooth.”
Tuesday, April 18th.—Left at 6:30 A.M., and arrived at the Wells of Disibil, where we found a rude shelter from the sun. I walked the whole distance. Saw several gazelles. The wells are in the dry bed of a river in a mountain valley. Only one is used now, the other having filled up. After lunch went hunting after gazelles, and when, later in the afternoon, we at last reached the rest of the caravan, we found them camped earlier than usual. We are now in the valley of Sinkaat. We know that we are nearing the sea, for the night air is very damp, and our clothes are wet through.
Wednesday, April 19th.—Had a good laugh this morning at the Consul, who roused us during the night by loudly challenging some parties who were prowling around the camp. They proved to be a couple of innocent donkeys. Off as usual at 6:30, and followed the valley and the river-bed. Camped at 10:30 at the well of Hambouk. The water was not good. Left at 4 P.M. Came into a fine plain full of green trees, and singing birds, and flocks of goats. Passed the wells of Otaou (water bad) without stopping. At last we emerged from the mountains, and came to the spot where we ought to have a fine view of the sea, but it was dark. We camped finally on a broad plain, though the drivers protested that we ought to go on beyond; but they were informed that we intended to stop there, and that was the end of the controversy. It is damp and warm to-night. Ibrahim, our dragoman, is ill.
Thursday, April 20th.—Midani and an Arab started this morning at an early hour ahead of the caravan for Souakim, to inform our friends of our arrival, and to prepare a place for us. We started at 5:30 A.M. The first object to attract our attention was the sea, the beautiful blue sea! What a thrill of joy that first sight of the sea sends through one coming from Central Africa! It is a bond of connection with the outer world. It is the highroad of commerce and civilization. It is the avenue of hope, and love, and life! As we approached Souakim we had fine views of the white, shining, coral city. It was not long before we discovered with our glasses a steamer lying in the harbor and another coming in. We took off our hats and hurrahed like school-boys. Soon a delegation of friends came out to meet us, among whom were M. Marquet’s son and Mr. Midani’s brother. At last we entered the city. Doctor’s camel was afraid, and had to be led in. We passed through the bazaars, and over the causeway, and through the big gate into the city proper, which is built on an island. The appearance of the town is quite dazzling, as every portion of it is built of white coral. We noticed some fine specimens in the walls as we passed. We went directly to M. Marquet’s new house, not yet finished, where camping room had been assigned us in the open yard, and here we sat down by the sea waiting for the caravan to arrive. Finally we retired into the entry of the unfinished house, where, as soon as our baggage arrived, we spread our cots, and took up our quarters, and paid off the camel drivers, who, for a wonder, went away contented. There has been rather a serious misunderstanding between some of our friends. It takes considerable self-control to keep quiet and calm and cool amid the discomforts and annoyances of a journey like this. Our first and great want was a bath, and this was soon arranged in one of the upper rooms of the new building. Then we put on some clean clothes, and felt as if we had been born again. We made several calls, and finally went, by invitation, to dinner at M. Marquet’s (brother of the gentleman of the same name at Khartoum), where we spent a very pleasant evening. A small steamer coming in to-day ran into our steamer of the Rubattino Line and broke her mast. There are three steamers now in harbor, an unusual thing for Souakim. We cannot sail before Saturday....
Saturday, April 22.—Up and on deck early; friends off to say farewell; started at 9 A.M.; had breakfast on deck. All our meals are to be on deck, as it is so warm below. Had a fine view of the town as we steamed slowly out of the harbor. The channel is a tortuous and difficult one. Coral reefs abound on every side. But after a little careful turning and twisting we were out on the sea—the boundless sea. Oh! what a delight to be at sea again, and breathe the refreshing salt air, after our experience during the last few months! We have pleasant companions, and the voyage promises to be an enjoyable one. At dinner conversation is carried on, and jokes are cracked in French, English, Greek, Arabic, and Italian. The captain is a pleasant, jovial, able man, and our steamer is good and comfortable.
Tuesday, April 25th.—A number of islands and the mainland on both sides are in sight. Asia on one side; Africa on the other; Arabia and Egypt, both full of historical interest. Here, towering above others, is the peak pointed out as Mt. Sinai. We accept the statement and fall to musing on the wonderful events that once occurred in this vicinity. The Gulf is here from 15 to 17 miles wide. There are great quantities of sea-weed floating about. The shore on both sides is a desert. We are this evening only 50 miles from Suez, and we expect to arrive about 4 o’clock in the morning.
Wednesday, April 26th.—Arrived at Suez at 4 A.M. Cast anchor, and waited for the Health Officer. Fourteen steamers were lying in the roadstead, while others were entering and coming out of the canal. Somewhere about here it was, probably, that the children of Israel passed through the sea on dry land. The Health Officer did not take long to give us clean papers, and we steamed slowly into dock. We sent for a cart to take our baggage up to town, while the Consul took a boat, then leaving Ibrahim, with Mourgan to assist him to get the things through the custom-house, we went ashore. We were immediately surrounded by a most importunate crowd of donkey boys and men who in their eagerness to secure us as their legitimate prey fought and pulled and pushed till we were nearly crowded into the water. Seeing the necessity of immediate action, we struck right and left with our sticks, till we had cleared a space around us, then leaping on to the donkeys we had already selected, we started off on a smart trot for the town; true, the donkeys had lost their bridles in the muss, but that made no difference. We arrived at the Suez (Eng.) Hotel with a good appetite for our breakfast, and some time before the Consul and his party. After breakfast we took a walk about the town. Returned and read the papers till dinner. A mule cart with our baggage, has run away, and smashed up some of our belongings, but we are getting above caring much for such accidents now. At 5 P.M. we took another walk, and then went by invitation to a dinner party at the Belgian and Brazilian consuls. It was an extensive dinner, and the evening, till a late hour, was passed most pleasantly.
Thursday, April 27th.—Took the train for Cairo at 8:45. A number of friends came to see us off. Fine views of the canal and the desert, and then of the fertile land of Goshen. Took dinner at Zagazig, where we changed cars and started again for Cairo at 3 P.M. At a station near Cairo Mr. Moussalli’s beautiful children came to meet their papa, whom they had not seen for over a year. They reminded me forcibly of my own little ones at home. Soon we reached Cairo, and were greeted by the familiar faces of the hotel porters and others. I started off at once to the American Consulate for our letters, and found 27 waiting for me. What a feast for a hungry soul! It seemed almost like getting home to get back to this familiar hotel. Had a call from Dr. Lansing and Dr. Watson, of the American Mission, who gave us a hearty welcome back after our long and perilous journey. We truly have great reason to be thankful for the way in which we have been preserved amid dangers seen and unseen.
While in Cairo the news was received of the defeat of the army sent against the “False Prophet,” and the fall of Senaar, and of general anarchy in the Soudan. The insurrection under Arabi Pasha was also every day becoming more serious. People were already beginning to leave the country. The explorers were advised by Gen. Stone and others not to broach the subject of the proposed mission to the government in the present crisis. They rapidly settled up the affairs of the expedition and left the country none too soon for their good. They sailed from Alexandria May 10th. They met the English and French fleets, called at Malta and Gibraltar on their way and arrived in Liverpool May 24th. While in England they consulted Mr. Arthington, laid the results of the expedition before him, and agreed that they would have to wait for a more settled state of the country before the proposed plans for the mission could be carried out. They sailed from England June 6th, arriving in New York June 17th, having been gone from home nine months. The long journey was ended. The objects of the expedition had been fully accomplished in the face of many dangers and great difficulties. A detailed report, with maps and plans and photographs, is in course of preparation.—Ed.